not bad.. a few waves to be had
OB again looking dismal. The ol' dog just hasn't been working these last few days. I saw one longboarder sitting way outside as i drove back toward my house but the rideable waves looked infrequent, mushy and relatively difficult to track down. Lerm and i headed south toward P-town. We tried to get lucky at Smoke-a-Jay, where i scored point-break-like rights all weekend... but.. flatness pervaded the cove.. Soo.. feeling generally anti-Lindy of late we decided to head back up to Sharp Park, based on the fact that we both noticed seemingly well-shaped waves peeling and breaking near the pier. However, upon closer inspection it became obvious that steep, thick, frightening waves were thumping and exploding very close to the beach. Most waves closed-out and it looked very threatening and scary out there.. Soo.. it's fast approaching 7:30 at this point and not wanting to get skunked, we decide to drive down to Linda Mar and jump in no matter what. Sure enough we crest the hill, look over the guardrail and watch glassy, shoulder-high waves peel and beckon! Fuck!! We both look at each other in the parking lot and think, "It's On!!" Speed into the wetty and sprint out to the lineup. Lots of lulls out there but also a fair number of rideable waves cruising in. I nabbed about 10 rides.. mostly on the far inside. Most of my rides were of the mushy, cruisy variety.. but it was fun to just glide and meander along with the softly tapering waves. I did also latch into one big, peeling, rifling set wave that pretty much made my morning. While running from my car i notices what looked like a semi-consistent sandbar with a little crowd of dudes sitting out there.. i paddled out to the inside of them.. caught a few that rolled by their outside position.. then, with some subtlety, paddled out and sat a bit deeper than the pack.. and sure enough.. this big set rolls on through.. I let the first wave go so that the pack of dudes wouldn't feel it a breach of etiquette that i paddled deeper than them and then snagged the first set wave.. but.. on the second set wave i took off and then raced this ledging, offshore-propped wall for maybe 4 or 5 pumps.. then did some long turns as the waves slowed down on the inside.. then ended my ride right on the sand! fun! I've really been working on trying to simply ride the wave as opposed to forcing turns and willing maneuvers. I'm trying to be more in tune with the natural contours and speed-pockets of the wave. I'd like the maneuvers and turns i make to be more based on a translation of these wave nuances.
cool..
oh yeah.. i surfed for 5 hours on saturday!! then again for almost 3 hours yesterday.. If you were one of the people who shared the lineup with me on saturday evening.. thanks for the good vibes! One sucky thing occured, though, BBR got purposefully dropped in on by one of the more vocal surfers on this one set wave. It was kind-of a bummer to feel the anti-bodyboard vibe.. as i think that's why this one guy dropped in. That sucks BBR!! But.. as the tide switched and the sky began to grow dark.. almost everybody paddled in.. with the exception of me and this one other guy. we ended up trading waves for the last hour of daylight. While most of the session i was picking scraps on the inside, avoiding the crusty local guys, trying to be crafty. now we were simply sitting on the peak and taking turns on the biggest waves that came through! Laughing about it! so lucky!!
worrrdd!!
Andy Irons won the pipeline masters and in doing so (and beating slater) is now back-to-back world champion. He's a cocky mother fucker.. but.. his surfing is no joke!
AI
Santa Cruz yesterday (Stinkeye's pics)
yeah, ob has been showing its more fickle side lately. was out at sloat yesterday afternoon as the tide dropped, conditions were changing rapidly with the mix of swells and crazy tide change. it was hard to get lined up, and the drops were large enough to cause further pickiness. on some sets the outer bars were breaking more like inside bars, almost top to bottom, so it was dangerous to hang too far inside. but later on there were also some beautiful wide bowls, perfectly wind-groomed, with occasional barrel sections. i went in happy to have scored one good left, and also content with my improved navigational skills and confidence in heavier, mixed-up surf.
earlier in the afternoon i went out in front of the beach chalet. i made it out without too much trouble, but soon found myself and everyone else around me getting swept north - the opposite direction of the ripping outbound current! after only 15-20 minutes in the water i came out at kelly's, parading in with about 10 others. so i guess that was some sort of longshore current? never seen that kind of action before, perhaps the WSW windswell was contributing...
anyone else have tales from ob land this weekend?
Posted by: loon at December 22, 2003 11:00 AMOB!! good on ya for charging OB loon! That goes for anybody who charged out there this weekend!!
sack!
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 11:05 AM
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 11:08 AMI went out yesterday morning at Noriaga. It took me a while to get out and when I did I had drifted so far South that I couldn't see any other surfers. I soon snapped the cord to my leash on an outside wave, but the board wasn't pushed all the way in. The waves were somewhat large but mushy and hard to catch. I was really spooked catching a couple waves without a leash. When I came out, I had drifted to Taravel.
Later, I went out near the beach chalet and got caught in the weird rip that Loon mentioned.
Rockaway was definately the call this weekend. I was out for about 4 hours on Saturday and it was good with the south winds and rain. Sunday at about 4:00, the north end was as good as I have ever saw it.
Posted by: Joe O at December 22, 2003 11:29 AMAnybody else just feel that earthquake? It was a big one. 6.5 centered near San Simeon. Hope everyone down there is okay...
http://quake.usgs.gov/recenteqs/Quakes/nc40148755.htm
Posted by: mwsf at December 22, 2003 11:29 AMEverything you thought you knew about where to surf at OB is out the window. Get out there and check yer bars, I watched gaping hollow tubes at one spot yesterday morning. My UFO tester was out riding. He brought his thruster too, in case he wanted to switch. He didn't ride the thruster.
25 UFOs have been ordered, and about a dozen will be sent to large-volume shapers that are interested in testing a free sample. If any of them are reading this, feel free to email me. Samples will be available, hopefully, in 4 weeks.
On the shoulder front, I am a few weeks away from water time.
It's funny, I ran on the beach this morning with my dog, and noticed long period juice breaking WAY WAY WAY outside, and thought how lovely it would be to paddle out, if only for a wave or two.
Posted by: blakestah at December 22, 2003 11:32 AMHey N-Crew
Not wanting to drive south on Saturday, Ty and I jumped in at Sloat around noon hoping to catch a few of the decent peaks we saw infront of the north lot. The paddle out was grueling. Usually I don't have too much trouble but on Saturday it took me 45min to 1 hour to finally make it out. By the time I made it out, I was at Pacheco (and delirious). I caught one mediocre ride and came in. Ended up walking/running from Moraga back to Sloat. To my dismay, the waves seemed smaller and the paddle out much easier when I got back to my truck. There were 3-4 guys in front of the lot. I was too tired to try it again (but at least I made it out).
On Sunday we surfed Sharp Park. Clean 2ft overhead waves. Had to make the quick drop and try to make it over the shoulder or get pummeled on the huge barreling close outs. Ty caught the first one and stayed in for too long. He got barreled then got his ass kicked, he even got dragged on the bottom. Luckily I learned from his experience and popped out the thick backside where necessary.
Posted by: traut at December 22, 2003 11:34 AM-Peace -
Traut
ps - did yall just feel that quake. It shook my building in the Financial Dist (I sit on the 32nd floor.)
blakestah.. you're an OB fan, through and through! nice!
looking forward to sharing the lineup with ya soon!!
sharkbait.. you getting wet yet??
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 11:36 AMYeah, minor tremble in SSF with the earthquake action. Expected more as I think we are on man-made land here.
As for OB this weekend, purely dissappointed once again. It seems that as of lately, we have all the right elements but they just don't come together. I surfed inside reforms @ Beach Chalet in the morning yesterday. Outer waves weren't worth the effort to try to waste energy on. Insides was a sucking bowl-a-thon. Went over the falls twice for good measure. Fun session though. Paddle pretty easy if you could dodge the head high + mackers. Then I got Slizz in the afternoon. Paddled out at dead low tide. Looked great from the beach. Sucked out in the water. Just couldn't gain ground on anything. If you were in the right spot at the right time, you got some decent a-frames but in most cases, it didn't happen.
Personally, I think the bars are all fucked up! Lots of sand moving around and nothing is consistant. Big tidal swings aren't helpin either.
Posted by: Kaiser at December 22, 2003 11:40 AM6 foot of tide drained from 11-2 yesterday.
with the west component of the swell (which always makes ob "rippy" and it being short interval (another characteristic allowing OB to be more "rippy") and of course the tidal situation......well 4 boards broke while I was there.
but it was as you described joe and loon.
anyway i have a good story of my first wave...a nice offshore groomed one already feathering a touch out the back i spin and dig hard maybe 2 strokes per arm........it's steep and i'm paddling down not just in.......soo instead of going down i try to set the rail and fins and go totally under the ledge....i'm watching the bottom fall out, it straightens me up....my arms go over my head, i'm on my tippy toes on the board.....and then i see the nose jerk to the right towards the wave face and i know the fins and rail broke free so my going for glory moment has abruptly ended.....
....i land in the bottom and get the sucked up and around and down.......a slight pause and a shorter up and around and dragging...........i reach for my leash and pull but lot's of tension on the board but now i know where is up....i got a little pain from no air but i know ain't much to do but kinda hang out whole she does her thing .......things settle and i make 4 strokes to get to the surface......yup...snots out my nose and both arms filled with h2o.....
the old snots out the noser.....i think i would go again especially if i had my narrower board out. but probably should have made a few strokes to the wave as opposed to just sitting in the pit and letting it stack up....
surfing Deal NJ on Christmas day.....chest to head and offshore is forecast....water temp is 47 degrees.....that's not too bad.
Posted by: tom at December 22, 2003 11:48 AMjust talked to my brother down in pismo and he said it was pretty heavy down there. no damage to my parents' house but i guess they had to evacuate hearst castle and the surrounding areas. not many people live in that area, luckily.
Posted by: bbr at December 22, 2003 11:49 AMblakestah.....christian gave me the call that you gave him the call about that spot.
it must have ended before i got down there as no one was out when i rolled past.
high tide and inside.... pits? i never do too well in that super technical stuff but would have liked to watch the rippers get shacked....
Posted by: tom at December 22, 2003 11:54 AMtom-
I grew up in Deal. Surfed there for 10 years until i moved permanently to California. Lost touch but wonder if any of my childhood surf buds are still at it there. Great memories of surfing Colt's Beach in mid winter at the end of the jetty.
OB Sunday was the kind of day I love. Big old meaty peaks. No crowd. Started at Sloatand worked my way north from there. Today is gonna be v. good at low tide for thems that can get it.
Posted by: kdalle at December 22, 2003 11:58 AMI dealt with that side shore at Sloat yesterday afternoon, wicked; and I never did get out as it was pulling me out of the channels and back over the bars before I could clear them. I tried 2 paddle outs, 30 min attempts, but each time ended up drifting probably ¾ of a mile then hitting the beach to walk back south... ran out of sunlight.
Aren’t there supposed to be some old piers at Sloat? I thought the tide would be low enough for them to show, but never saw anything.
Posted by: New to the blog Tom at December 22, 2003 12:00 PMthat's cool k dalle. i'll check out colts and maybe ride one for you.
i do want to scope out the legendary sandy hook point. swell is south east that is forecast. will it go or does it like straight souths? or does the swell need to be bigger than what is forecast?
Posted by: tom at December 22, 2003 12:19 PMyou guys scored!..rad, i once again lagged..thinking of taking up rollerblading..dont cry for me argentina
Posted by: bagel at December 22, 2003 12:21 PM![]()
parko..
Posted by: bagel at December 22, 2003 12:38 PMThe "pier" at Sloat was created to lay the underwater pipe in the 80s. It was dismantled after completion. It requires a low tide and low sand to show. So far this year sand is not low enough.
Tom, that is right. It was ON at high tide, and fell to pieces by 2 hours into the tide swing. Keep an eye on that locale, though. Some very interesting things happening there, both inside and out. I got down there just before things fell apart, and saw 3 barrels where the rider was obscured for more than 2 seconds over a 10 minute period.
Posted by: blakestah at December 22, 2003 01:00 PMe, nice dual perspective on that Mavericks wipeout. I did one of those today, but on a wave about 1/10 that size, and I went for the feet-first landing. Doh.
-d
Posted by: dano at December 22, 2003 01:06 PMcomments from Sloat:
Posted by: dsx at December 22, 2003 02:10 PMwith a very tight pre-christmas schedule (off to Peru in a day) I didnt have enough time to sit and wait at Sloat for the sets to come. My 2 cents on the conditions were...clean overhead sets every 5-15min. not many rides, some sets would close out others would give a nice peel and others would throw and die. paddle was minor although some guys did struggle others timed it right and cruised out. offshores were blowing pretty strong making conditions colder than they seemed. overall if you had the time to sit for 2 hours you would get 4-5 good wavs and 3 bad ones.
Didn't they increase the threat level to "Frankenberry?" I guess surfing at some anti-niceness places is out.
Posted by: dano at December 22, 2003 02:32 PMClassic chart Dano! I used to love Booberry for what it is worth. That was like 20 years ago before they ruined it.
Seems like there is some hocus pocus going on today eh?
Sometimes its there, sometimes it isn't. Or maybe...
Anyone got ANY good waves today? (Jetty waves don't count either!)
Posted by: Kaiser at December 22, 2003 02:42 PMJust my 2 cents...
If you look at the tide chart and see a very steep angle, 9 foot tidal swing, the current is going to be rippin along and I don't expect much goodness at OB.
Posted by: Phil Young at December 22, 2003 03:05 PMhey dano -- love the chart. and thanks for the tips last week for my xmas vw van trip to santa barbara / san luis obispo -- hopefully these next swells will be able to wrap in down there. if anyone has any additional info about cool things to do in that area, please let me know.
Posted by: loon at December 22, 2003 03:25 PMI posted this link on Saturday, but I figure lots o folk didn't see it because the weekend, so reposting. It's a cautionary tale that I imagine most people on this board already know, but the short version is myself and a friend literally almost died last Wednesday, paddling out at of all places Tunitas Creek. Lulled by the perfectly peeling waves, took the express lane of a rip current, which hooked a bit and dumped us into the most powerful whitewater inside section I've ever dealt with. Was a very close call getting out of there, I probably wouldn't have lived another 5 minutes. My buddy was still stuck and I wound up calling the Coast Guard until I finally spotted him. Very very very scary.
Anyway, link:
http://wrybread.com/surf/yikes.shtml
And the number for Coast Guard rescue, which is a real good one to have in your cellphone, is 415-556-2103.
Posted by: wrybread at December 22, 2003 03:32 PMwrybread-
Posted by: kdalle at December 22, 2003 04:02 PMLong time ago there was an ad. The headline was "If you don't surf, don't start." You obviously weren't paying attention.
I read the wrybread story. i just cant believe tunitas was that big? OB was just pushing 15-18' faces. how could that place be as big? and as heavy? at least you survived. i usually dont paddle out to a spot for the first time with swell running 20@20. but hey thats just me. nice sack to try it. maybe next time.
Posted by: dsx at December 22, 2003 04:17 PMCould kdalle be attempting to usurp blakestah's spot as the most occasionally arrogant person here?
Posted by: rj at December 22, 2003 04:25 PMIt's always bigger than it looks from a cliff.
Posted by: dano at December 22, 2003 04:32 PMdsx, it wasn't that big hence my comment. I went past it on my way south and back north that day. It was smaller than OB. Over the years we've all heard so many "I almost drowned" stories. Most of us can survive conditions far more intense than we realize. I loved the bit about the 2 wave hold-downs.
rj-I'm flattered.
Posted by: kdalle at December 22, 2003 04:37 PMI almost drowned once eating a bowl of Count Chocula too fast.
Posted by: dano at December 22, 2003 04:44 PM
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 04:48 PMfunny
sweet, controversy..ill have to give props to wrybread..maybe not the best idea but sounded like a hair raising experiance..coming from a guy that didnt paddle out at sloat last night..
Posted by: bagel at December 22, 2003 04:53 PMyeah, the numerous 2 wave hold downs had me rolling my eyes a bit too. i'm sure it was heavy, but...
Posted by: bbr at December 22, 2003 04:59 PME, what are you doing on the Craigslist message boards?
Posted by: Kaiser at December 22, 2003 05:05 PMdano-nice callback!
Posted by: kdalle at December 22, 2003 05:08 PMkaiser.. i'm slacking.. i should be building this wildlife site.. ok.. i'm back to working now..
don't eat us creek! gnarly!
i had a good session there one time..
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 05:16 PMHilarious that this was so controversial. Personally, I usually just surf boatdocks at Lindy on my 10.5' Nerf board, so it took me by surprise.
Since I'm as bored at work as I'm guessing most of these posters are, I put together a comparison. Here's Tunitas from surfline.com:
And here's Tunitas right after we attempted to surf it last Wednesday, note how far out the waves are breaking, and how hairy the inside is:
The HMB buoy history shows 17@20 (and it's peaking at 20 seconds, it looks like it might have gone off the scale) right around when we went out. Don't get me wrong, I'm no big wave charger, I chicken out at OB when it gets above DOH. But it was waaaay hairy out there.
Posted by: wrybread at December 22, 2003 05:20 PMhow come theres never a "Big Thursday" or "Big Monday"
Posted by: bagel at December 22, 2003 05:23 PMspeaking of work
Posted by: e at December 22, 2003 05:28 PMadvice. take it or leave it.
don't ever believe what you read on surf reports. and check it yourself.
all of ocean beach was throwing out waves with slack wind and a generally easy paddle.
can personally attest. no problems here on sandbars or tides.
then again this is an ocean beach based report? go to santa cruz if you want it easy and to break in the same spot.
Posted by: you missed it at December 22, 2003 06:08 PMThanks for the great albeit scary stories, folks. Apologies for random/missed surf reports of late but 'tis the season for busyness. However can certainly confirm shifted bars. The hunt is on!
ETA back in ocean, hmmm the 30th Dec, let's make it official. Only 4 months out of the water. Look out boatdocks!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at December 22, 2003 07:13 PMOB was classic all week, just how I like it! I surfed sharp park on Saturday, cought a couple of close-outs, then, came back to OB surfed at Lawton. I checked eagles at sundown, saw a boogie boarder get tossed on the rocks after getting barrelled by a very small wave. That is what boogieboards are for! Sunday, more nice barrells at OB. Today, well I got another bought of this chronic illness. I felt really sick and dizzy but I wanted to surf so I went to Linda Mar. I felt like I was betraying OB or something because I usually don't think or talk that highly of Linda Mar. I ended up blowing out and coughing up about a pound of yellow-green slime. I cought a couple of casual rights and a few close-out sets. But it was nice. There is a time and place for everything.
Posted by: fish fingers at December 22, 2003 07:18 PMhey oh, what's all the down on OB last weekend? I surfed it Sunday and had a gas! Made up for getting rejected at dawn on Friday, frigging current dragged me and a bud all the way up to Kelly's. We had to beach it or... Anyway, OB has been ping-ponging lately, but Sunday was game on as far as I was concerned. Nice drops, shoulders a bit mushy but who cares when you just did a mega drop. Some of those waves are hitting the outer bars hard. Just a matter of time before it all comes together. Could it hold clean through tomorrow before the rain gods get angry? I await e's latest installment.
Posted by: banjo at December 22, 2003 10:13 PMcant we all just get along
rain songs:
Posted by: blakestah at December 22, 2003 10:32 PMriders on the storm
love, rain on me
who'll stop the rain
no rain
one percent (janes addiction)
here we go. It's raining, but my voodoo chile thinks it's doable. Maybe I'll see a few of you out there.
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