mellow, idyllic, empty
Not a soul in the water on this crisp, arctic, crystal-clear morning. The waves lapped in consistently, never reaching above head-high. Lerm and I shivered in the pre-dawn darkness and then chuckled at our futile attempts to stretch while our bodies braced against the cold. The ocean was actually warmer than the air and we paddled out through gentle, offshore-groomed mellowness. We each caught about 10 or so rides during the hour+ session. I found two particularly interesting sections... both lefts that buckled, ledged and flirted with barrelling. i may have actually tucked into a brief cover-up.. as i witnessed some blips and blaps of water stream over my head as i was making the drop.. but.. in reality it may have been water bouncing off my head and tricking me into thinking i was a little covered.. who knows.. After nearly two weeks out of the water it felt fantastic to get a long 3 hours session yesterday and then another, more soulful session this morning. Yesterday the beach got "hella" crowded as the near-perfect, head-high, silky-smooth lines enticed every surfer for miles into the water. Impressive maneuvers went down. I watched one dark-skinned Ft. Point local guy take off on a shapely left.. steer into a sliding 360 right off the take off.. pump once.. then launch into a no-grab frontside air and land it! I was then surfing with this guy named Nathan, who is from Moss Landing and competed in some of the original air shows in the late 80s/early 90's.. He takes off on this small left.. pumps 4 or 5 times until he's blazing with speed, then launched a gigantic 4 foot air that he lands with a resounded "PLAP!" as his board reconnects with the water. I couldn't really believe it and it's definitely the largest air i've ever witnessed in person. The guy fricken shreds!
After nearly two weeks out of the water, out of the lineup, off the internet, totally removed from anything surf.. i noticed a big change in my perspective while surfing. I was just so psyched to be out in the water, catching waves, gazing at the beautiful headlands, soaking up the sunshine, watching good surfing. Recollections of crowd-induced angst, aggro frustration, and surf-related jadedness barely seeped into my renewed newbie ignorant bliss.. it was refleshing to just enjoy the waves i caught and not be constantly pained and saddened when crowd dynamics became tense.
anyway.. happy new year! May this be a year of never-ending offshores, never-ended medium-period windswell that lights up the whole beach, never-ending good vibes, and never-ending improvement and stoke for all those committed and psyched!
also want to give a shout-out to MunLao Lee - the east-bay rock-climing phenom who has recently fallen under the seductive spell of the surf! right on MunLao! keep charging!
sarge's pic of mick fanning
scott bass' pic from surfermag
e...welcome back!! you must be good luck as yesterday brought mellow niceness (in relatively clean water!) to the beach after several days of rain, mixed up swell, and uber bacteria counts!
drove the beach yesterday morn and decided to hit peaky (albeit somewhat mushy) VFers. nothing epic, but a ton of rides, a mellow crowd, a beautiful day, and good in-water company in the form of my lady and a good buddy fresh off the plane from a Holiday absence. sweet.
btw...i hear ya about appreciating the rippahs in the line-up. i don't know if it was heightened awareness from my own 2-week absence...or if it was a troop of shredders visiting for the Holidays...but during my first sesh back (on the 31st) i witnessed more killer rides and maneuvers than i can remember ever seeing in a single seshie!
Posted by: ck at January 5, 2004 10:51 AMHope you all thoroughly scrubbed every orifice after your session yesterday -- the water STILL had VERY HIGH BACTERIA COUNTS (from SF all the way thru SC) and was posted all week before that. I stayed out of the water despite the perfection, since I had a cold and don't need bacteria-induced infections on top of it. It's a shame what happens around here when it rains, we are forced to reunite with our poop in the line-up b/c our waste systems cannot handle.....think about the future and how we will try to put an end to this royal bummer of an environmental quagmire....
Posted by: at January 5, 2004 11:07 AM-MONKEY MILK
good to have you back e. got some fun ones yesterday afternoon in the shorebreak around sloat. full-on asian invasion with some hot japanese chicks ripping. tons & tons of waves to be had despite the crowd. saturday afternoon surfed OK Kelly's but it was really weird, peaking hard and then backing off to mush very quickly, not that good really.
Posted by: bbr at January 5, 2004 11:09 AMMonkey Milk (nice moniker, btw!)...i hear ya. bummer (no pun inteded) situation. i'm still walking on eggshells given my seshies on both Sat and Sun. time will tell....
Posted by: ck at January 5, 2004 11:10 AMHasn't the water been relatively clean at OB (with the exception of Fort Funston) for the past couple days? I don't think OB has been posted since 1/2.
http://beaches.sfwater.org/
Had a fun seshie on some small waves at VFers this morning. Super mellow with only one other person in the water anywhere on the north end of the beach.
s.s. sharkbait, if you haven't hit it yet, this would be a perfect day to get back in the water.
Cheers!
Posted by: mwsf at January 5, 2004 11:34 AMwelcome back e and happy new years everyone..had a good trip to the southland..scored head high Rincon leg burners, and fun Zuma a few times..also boarded on some crappy icy snow..sounds like there were some waves up here..nice..im ready to buy a new wetsuit..anyone know of any good deals?..i heard about a wetsuit factory outlet or something in Morrow Bay and wondering if anyone knows of anything like that up here or even in SC? 2004 oh shit
Posted by: bagel at January 5, 2004 11:46 AMOB: waist high mellow mushy/slappy waves, chill air, clean lines with only slight texture on the water. Not much juice, but looks like a fun paddle/hang out/be mellow with pals time. Yesterday and today would be PERFECT to get back in the water after a 4 month injury, but I got sick GODDAMMIT!!!!!!!! AAAAARRRRRRGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!! @#$%!!! #$$%%!!! Nothing major but enough I can't go in the water, then must travel this week and next too. @@#$$%!!!!!! @@$%!!!!!! LOSING MY MIND!!!! THIS IS TORTURE!!!! AAAAGGGGHHH!!!!! GAAAH!!!!
Excuse rant. Go get some really mellow waves. Whole beach looks floatable. If you're right near my place feel free to use the hose but watch out for the monday parking ticketers. Currently sunny and with haze on the distant horizon.
Posted by: s.s. selfpitybait at January 5, 2004 11:52 AMno pics, sorry guys i cant relay the visual greatness that was Peru. I just got back from 2 weeks in Lima and it was fabulous, i highly recommend it! even though conditions were never totally together the waves at several standout spots namely Punta Rocas never dropped below head high plus and maxed at slight under TOH. not the power and heevingness of TOH O.B. but big enough to enjoy seemingly endless drops.
the best day was the last when clean blue skies and zero winds with 6-12 foot faces came rolling in and only 6 guys out. remember that it is only 15 miles from a population of 8 million.
the most crowded was christmas day with around 25 guy out and 10-12 foot. overall very mellow crowds except for the 15-20 brazilians that crowd the line-ups in packs and make way too much noise and have zero surf etiquette. without them i would have had 10 foot peaks with 2 guys out at times. it wouldnt be too bad if there were 3-4 guys but they travel in hords! i remember driving back to lima and seeing 15 guys walking together with wetsuits and boards on the road out of the beach area.
peru rules, lima surf is awesome with or with out good ground swell, just watch out for the brazilians, they can ruin the line-up in seconds.
Posted by: dsx at January 5, 2004 12:04 PMOB: whoop not entirely mooshy, there's the world's teeniest barrels and closeouts throwing out too. Awww.....[ and a far cry from TOH Peru! ]
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 5, 2004 12:13 PMwelcome back e!
and happy 2004, folks.
yesterday afternoon mid-beach was great for me, a nice precedent for my first session in 2004. caught 12-15 rides, including two pigdog coverups, second one the most legit view i've had within a barrel; hopefully in 2004 i will be able to find my way out of one of those thangs.
crowds were dense, but around me the waves seemed to be breaking everywhere, and consistently enough to spread the niceness. i did hear that there was a heated longboarder v. shortboarder confrontation that included physical contact, too bad.
Posted by: loon at January 5, 2004 12:20 PMOB SF water from Saturday tested clean. It is our neighbors to the south that are the problem, they need to clean up their act.
In SF, the rain outfall is treated before release, until it hits capacity. Then, there is an overflow release. Then, the water gets dirty. But, even in heavy rains, most of the outfall is treated, and only a limited amount is released as pure outfall/sewage.
In other places, the outfall just flows in the ocean. Like San Mateo. Water quality there is MUCH MUCH worse, and cleans up slower. In SF, we are very lucky in this respect. If we have 2-3 days without rain our water is almost always clean.
Still, if it is posted, you are well-advised to keep clear. Bad water quality leads to nasty GI tract infections, a certain female bodysurfer knows about this too well right now. Just like food poisoning, very unpleasant.
Posted by: blakestah at January 5, 2004 12:24 PMWhat's up niceness?? Sweet to read about the fun times at OB yesterday and today, and I'm glad your water is getting cleaner. I'm stoked for all of you who have been out of the water to be back in it! Good on ya. also, those of you returning from holiday surf trips, good stuff! especially Wrestler, it's nice to hear you had a dope trip to oahu [and saw that down to the wire ASP finish at Pipe!]... i've always been kinda psyched out by the vibe on the north shore to want to go there, but it's cool that you say Go for it!
enjoy your newly refreshed surfing perspective, e. i know on my last trip i hit a point where i was tired of 'practicing' my surf, working on turns, etc... and ended up getting back to a sweet place where I was stoked to just stand up on a piece of foam and glide across the water. sometimes simple is best.
anyway e, thanks for the invite for the east coast fiesta, and i'll give you a shout soon. i hope everyone has a great start to 2004, and thanks for sharing all the good vibes! i'm drydocked for the moment [well i don't have to be, but i can't seem to sack up for the 40 degree water for winter surfing in jersey], so i'll be counting on ya'll for the virtual experience. i just got skunked for a week in south Florida (after paying shwaggy Continental $160 to fly with a board)... so e, our session at Rockaway will be my last for a while. but by Feb. 1st I should be underway as an official Niceness Missionary to Costa Rica... at which point the whole crew is welcome to come stay with me. Word!! Have a good surf everybody!
Posted by: jake at January 5, 2004 01:36 PMAnotherthing to hope you don't catch from San Mateo waters: Eye infections.
The last time I surfed a spot we called mudslides (located about smack dab in the middle of the communities united under the name Pacifica) and this was many years ago. It had been raining for a while and the spot was working like an uncrowded Rockaway. Fun sessions but boy! I woke up the next day with both eyes swollen shut. Antibiotics helped it down to just one eye (not completely swollen shut but still hurting), and then eventually it was gone. But I was out of the water for a couple weeks. I have not been back.
Posted by: Friend #1 at January 5, 2004 01:41 PMdsx - peru sounds dope! large waves is seems! Sucks that your absolute stoke was a bit compromised by throngs of Brazilians. I think that any group of 15 surfers descending en masse on a surf spot will have ill effects, regardless of their national origin. It's just bad form, imho, to travel in surf packs of more than 2 or 3 at most. That's cool that you got out to Peru though!! Sweeet! I'm jonesing for a surf trip..
sounds like tomorrow morning will be super mini!! break out the logs!
Posted by: e at January 5, 2004 01:54 PMI hear you about the Brazilians in Peru. Stayed in Pacasmayo and there were 12 or so of them travelling and surfing together, it sucked, you had to surf at the times around them or get dropped-in on only to watch them blow the wave, with a couple ripping exceptions. If you think our waters been dirty, you can literally see the shit floating around Punta Rocas, but the fish seem to dig it as they are jumping all around. I was there in June last year and had to get out of Lima area as the non-stop gloom and filth along with the less than perfect conditions was driving me crazy. In the north you need better swells but I liked it so much better, stayed up there for a month.
Posted by: at January 5, 2004 04:16 PMmadagascar
Posted by: e at January 5, 2004 05:09 PM
Posted by: at January 5, 2004 05:10 PM
Posted by: e at January 5, 2004 05:14 PMHey E & other niceness dudes - I've been lurking for years and didn't realize how much I've come to enjoy the page until you were gone for a while. So cheers, happy new year, and welcome back. There's lots of us out here who appreciate your take. (You too, blakestah) I've been surfing for 20 years, from Marin originally, and still (usually) remember to focus on the stoke & beauty. Don't let the kooks get to you, just pity them for whatever else must be going wrong in their lives...
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