super miniscule
Lerm called at 6:40 and said that conditions looked absolutely teeny. That was a relief for me because i had to go to the DMV.. the pinnacle of bureaucratic frustration! Soo.. i don't have the first-hand report for y'all. The winds are perfect at 1knot out of the East. The SF buoy, however, is reading 2.6ft 4sec!!! I don't think i've ever seen a smaller reading. Both the California (11ft 8sec) and Papa (15ft 11sec) buoys are up soo we'll probably have waves in a few hours.. maybe by the end of the day?? but most likely tomorrow morning. Remember to thank the surf gods for this stretch of offshore winds we've been enjoying. Project yourself into late April - with a few months of consistent onshores behind you and a whole summer of onshore slop ahead.. trying to squeak in sessions before the wind picks up around 7:30... looking out at OB and just grimacing because you know you'll be bobbing and bouncing all over the place out there.. trying to finagle into disorganized corners and random, upchucky sections. yup.. enjoy these winds while they last!!
Also.. it looks like the legendary Tom Curren will be playing with his band in santa cruz on saturday night.. i'm thinking about checking it out.. Some of his guitar work appears in the movie Litmus, along with his surfing section. He's in tune with that ethereal, searching, improvised, soaring guitar-solo sound.. Could be interesting.. Go to surfpulse.com and look under "news" for details.
Brown Turd update - i just want to again thank everyone who contributed to my new board!! you heads rock super hard. However.. after about 6 months of ordering, waiting, waiting, getting bailed on, ordering from a different shaper, waiting, waiting, and more waiting.. I'm still frickin' waiting on that new stick!!! It's been really frustrating as i've been forced to ride my old old board that's way too big. but.. hopefully soon it will be finished.
At this point i'd recommend buying a surfboard off the rack.. unless you have a half a year or more to wait.
also.. It's come time to plan an early summer surf trip.. probably 4-6 weeks.. here are the canditate destinations so far. any thoughts?
Nicaragua (with a possible visit with Jake in Costa Rica)
Madagascar
Chili
Indo (already been.. but could go back for sure!)
Bruce (surfhumor.com) continues to take some great surf shots... check em'!
anyone guess this spot?
OB a few weeks ago
looks like right-away or the pier to me. surfer in photo number 3 looks like a pacifica local named jason, a mellow but hardcore all-around waterman.
i've never been to any of those places, but i hear great things about nicaragua.
Posted by: loon at January 6, 2004 10:30 AMsorry to hear about your troubles with the brown turd, e. let me know if you want contact info for a shaper based in encinitas, i was in a rush to get my latest board and chose him over local guys because he is very responsive -- he finished my board within 4 weeks of taking my order. relatively cheap too - especially if you can afford a trip south to pick up the board.
speaking of turds in the lineup, use this URL to let the EPA know what you think about their tentative plan to allow for even more untreated sewage discharges during rain storms.
http://www.nrdcaction.org/action/index.asp?step=2&item=10098
Posted by: loon at January 6, 2004 10:38 AMTiny, tiny, tiny... But still fun.
Super dinky, super clean, really fun. Got up at 6:30, loaded my bad-ass funboards in my car and hit the beach. The first lot I pulled into, there wasn't even a wave breaking. Kept driving, didn't see much. Saw Lerm in and out of the next lot without hesitation. Thought he was headed back to a specific street. Didn't follow. Ended up somewhere in the middle, over a dune with no one out. Set came in about knee to waist and just kept peeling right, decided to go. Glad I did. About 10-12 people within site by the time I got out. Good sesh with CK. If you want to learn to surf, today is your day if you couldn't yesterday!
Basically, we need some juice. But I am cool re-introducing myself to my bad-ass f-boards that I haven't ridden in like 9 months.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 6, 2004 10:39 AMAloha from Oahu. E, been trying to plan a surf trip for June also and can't figure out where to go. Looking for somewhere in the Pacific/Asia region. Any ideas from the niceness family is greatly appreciated. Conditions have been awesome in da country for the past month with new swell trains coming in this week. Winds have turned a bit nasty with trades coming back. Water quality here has been pretty nasty the past week with the huge rainstorm we had for over a week. 9 plus inches in a couple of days. Multiple beach closings around the island.
Posted by: bagus at January 6, 2004 10:45 AMOB: freezing. flat as a pancake. I have a migraine. All neoprene full of holes. Screw it! Only a few available surf days the next few months. I've just suited up. YES! First paddle out in 4 MONTHS.
Next time it's 6 feetish or under and you wonder why some goofuss using their board mainly as a flotation device, please be courteous and keep in mind that said goofus could be the one giving those dubious niceness reports. Goofuss also has a bead on every half arsed peak within a 2 mile radius ;) do say hello and feel free to exchange your surf tech tips for OB condition observations !
OB's Worst Surfer is out of shape and back with a vengeance! Wee here I go!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 6, 2004 10:56 AMWelcome back, Ethan. Missed my daily fix of niceness. Need to give a disclaimer that some of better shots are from Lon Waxstein who's credited at the site. Best news was that some of the OB crew who surfed 12/17 (Big Weds) or 12/28 contacted me so I was able to send them CD's with their pics. If anyone sees your ugly mug at the site, let me know.
Posted by: Bruce at January 6, 2004 11:01 AME, I can't wait for you to get your new stick, if for no other reason than that I want to check out the Green Lantern! Talked to T this morning and she said she saw you shredding the line at the DMV. She was renewing our registration. Figured since it expired last August, it was about time...
Nice work getting back out there, s.s. sharkbait!
Posted by: mwsf at January 6, 2004 11:21 AMon the surf trip, well I have to recommend Peru only 2nd to Indo. the biggest thing that i like about peru is the ammount of surf concentrated into a small area, that is Lima of course. if you are a goofy footer then northern peru is the call, around 4-5 world class point breaks in a strech of coast around the size of southern cali.
the other major issue for me is that Peru grabs all swells from all directions, there are no major islands blocking swells and in our summer it is the winter season and you can be sure to get head high plus every day and you will certainly see TOH+++! over a 4 week strech. remember the S.A. Mavs is 20 miles south of lima.
also in the chile v. peru debate chile is 4x colder than peru, you will be fine with a 3/2mm all winter in peru, whereas chile even in the central-northern area you will need that SF style 4/3mm with booties, maybe gloves and hood if you like that here. also in northern peru you can go with a spring or bare back the water is like 70-80 year round, so thats another plus.
also peru is really cheap for eating and lodging, gas and cars are $$$$ but you can find deals for long term rentals on 4x4s and you can hook up with surf camps. (i have a friend who runs a camp in the north and in lima) if you are in south lima you wont need a car if you lodge in the beach towns, you can rent a NICE beach house for about $500-$1000 for the month, 3 beds 2 bath, jacuzzi, etc....of course you can do a smaller condo for less. you can grab combis (little mini vans) that run all along the main road, and access to all the spots is super simple and quick, 10 min walk from the road is the longest, 2 min. is the shortest.email me if you want more details....
Peru Rules!
Posted by: dsx at January 6, 2004 11:37 AMsharkbait! nice work getting out there.. any rides?
mwsf - yeah.. i saw T at the DMV.. that place is scary.. and i have to go back!!! gnarly!
bagus - thanks for the report from the islands. I bet you see some ridiculously good surfing there.. I also wouldn't mind going somewhere in the SouthPacific.. but.. i can't think of a place that would be fun for a month long trip.. where you could travel overland to various waves, cheaply.. It seems that most of the accessible south pacific islands are super expensive and the less crowded islands really require a boat to access the spots.. Basically.. if you have a yacht or a nice sailboat.. it would be super hella sick to cruise around the south pacific and scope out various reef passes.. anchor in lagoons.. explore..
word..
Posted by: e at January 6, 2004 11:44 AMfirst things first....so stoked to hear that s.s. will once again be joining the line-up!! welcome back, s.s.!
now...as for the micro-peelers...while i almost took a pass, i decided (with a bit of moto help from Kaiser) to hit it to simply enjoy the morning in the ocean. perhaps it was that focus (on simply being in the ocean rather than seeking out the best possible ride) but i had a killah time. Kaiser let me use one of his aforementioned bad-ass f--boards (mucho gracias, amigo!) and we both scored some mellow, but surprisingly long thigh-to-waist high "set" waves that rolled through every 5-10 minutes. only a few other heads scattered about and good vibes permeating the flow. nice.
Posted by: ck at January 6, 2004 11:49 AMnorthern chile is pretty intense: shallow urchin covered reefs and board-breaking waves. most setups look like this (on the smaller days):

Posted by: bbr at January 6, 2004 11:52 AMi've heard central chile (a few hours southwest of santiago) is more mellow with some fun point break surf. peru sounds pretty sweet though, prolly cheaper than chile too. how about southern france, portugal, and spain? i think that stretch of coastline will be my next destination. i've heard great things about costa rica from various sources as well. ask tyrez from the surfermag boards about panama too.
mmm surf trips..ive been hearing great things about el salvador lately..like its not so shady to travel anymore and there is that one right point there that is perfect..found this one..
![]()
Posted by: bagel at January 6, 2004 12:07 PMhmm, pictures aint showing up lately..
Posted by: bagel at January 6, 2004 12:08 PMyeah.. the picture thing.. let me check something..
Posted by: e at January 6, 2004 12:14 PMi imagine everyone knows/hates this web site but it is a good site for travel ideas...
Posted by: dsx at January 6, 2004 12:14 PMhttp://www.wannasurf.com if you havent checked which i doubt you should, it can help in deciding where to go.
test
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Posted by: e at January 6, 2004 12:19 PMWEEEEEEHAAAAAAW! Yeah! ! YIPEEEEEE! So terrible ! hooeee do I SUCK!!! Ahh ha who cares!
One pearl, one ride (?) and lots of paddling. Back for more freezing fun asap. Thanks to all for the well wishes!
Hot shower!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 6, 2004 12:24 PME,
Yeh... we are looking for a month long surf trip/adventure/trek also around June. Been having a hard time finding a good balance of surf, culture, sites, sounds and $$. Can't spend a fortune when I'm missing a month of work. But also want to surf my brains out in warm waters with a variety of breaks.... hmmmm
Posted by: bagus at January 6, 2004 12:45 PM
Posted by: mwsf at January 6, 2004 12:45 PMMmmmmmmmm, surf trips. Peru sounds pretty sick!! I'm not sure how S. America will work its way into my plans, but my trip is offically called "South of Mexico". hehe.
so congrats to the s.s. pearlbait!!! stoked for you! how can so many aggro surfers hate on people learning when 1) everyone was a beginner once and more importantly 2) look at the sheer, unadulterated joy, freshness, and love that is so accessible to one first getting acquainted with the experience of taking our energy and combining it with pulses coming through the ocean, all from the same Source.
here's to keepin' on dancin' the good dance. the last line of a book i finished last nite by orson scott card:
"Only the mothertree remained in the middle of the clearing, bathed in light, heavy with fruit, festooned with blossoms, a perpetual celebrant of the ancient mystery of life."
Posted by: jake at January 6, 2004 01:00 PMHow is this website on El Salvador?
http://www.puntamango.com.sv/packages.asp
The part about sleeping in cement barbed wire compounds with armed guards is a bit sketchy but the waves and country look unreal.
Posted by: tucker at January 6, 2004 01:40 PMsweet, pictures! heres one of el Salvodor, i always wanted to surf this right since i saw that one quicksilver video 21/10 or something
![]()
Posted by: bagel at January 6, 2004 01:59 PMyeeehahah, ss superbait! congrats on your return to the water! it sounds like you scored the perfect day to get reacquainted with your front lawn.
as for travel...i vote chile...'cause then you can score the Torres del Paine, too!
Posted by: friendly at January 6, 2004 01:59 PMdoh! i mean, check out that red square, blue triangle, and green circle!
![]()
Posted by: bagel at January 6, 2004 02:00 PMthat's hot bagel. my interpretation is that the blue triangle represents an abstract ocean, the green circle represents, of course, the green room in all its cylindrical glory, and the red square... well since red is angry and it's at the top of the painting, i see that as an aggro SC ripper popping a huge air.
Posted by: jake at January 6, 2004 02:37 PMnice one jake..
i'm getting my frickin jones on!! need surf!
this would do
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Posted by: e at January 6, 2004 03:25 PMsurf trips: how about Angola? I have a friend there right now ( not surfing though ) but maybe he'll see some breaks heh. The civil war has ended but it's still sketched enough that crowds shouldn't be a problem!
Okay Madagascar then.
OB micro as before and decidedly cloudy...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 6, 2004 03:30 PMSpeaking of travel, has anyone used one of those coffin travel bags that holds 3 boards? Any recommendations, advice as to good ones or bad ones????
muchas gracias
Posted by: at January 6, 2004 04:35 PMjdz
EPA allows partial treatment at sewage plants in storms
Posted by: e at January 6, 2004 04:47 PMe, welcome back. SS... good to have you back in the water. JDZ, I picked up a RipCurl coffin at Wise a while back. It's got wheels on it and turns into a roof rack... kind of cool. I think I got it for about $200 (fits up to a 7'3"). One thing to note that it does get heavy when you jam a bunch of gear in it and it's a little big when draggin' it through the airport. If you have just one board, the single bags are a lot more convenient. Some pics of it are in my Mexico review linked from e's front page.
-d
Posted by: dano at January 6, 2004 06:15 PMthanks dano...actually looked at one of those today. Definitely need something that will hold 3 boards. That make just work...
Posted by: jdz at January 6, 2004 06:54 PMConsider New Zealand. Cheap place to stay, you can go from east to west coast in a few hours (in the south island) and there are no crowds. The Catlins region (south east corner of south island) has pumping barrels most days. It ain't exactly tropical but if you want big empty surf with a good vibe in and out of the water it's worth thinking about.
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