bumpy and stormy... but doable.
Jumped in for a short session at Sloat this morning. I figured i would try to get on it before any more rain accumulated and threatened my gastro-intestinal health via poo-laden runoff. I first glanced the ocean around mid-beach and things looked frothy and generally unpleasant. The waves have picked up in size. Plenty of peaky, wobbly, disorganized, head-high waves of various form and character burping, melding and peeling along the beach. The SE wind kept the surface somewhat smooth. but there was definitely a chop to the water. It's the kind of morning where if you have a buddy to cajole you into paddling out.. you'd probably go for it.. otherwise you'd probably give it a miss.. Down at Sloat there was one brave dude (blue egg-shaped shortboard) who ventured out by himself. I watched as he got swept north at a brisk clip.. then a few minutes later caught a solid right, complete with steep drop, bottom turn and top turn. I had seen enough and was in my wetty and paddling out a few minutes later. The water seemed murky and dirty, and that faint scatalogical fragrance hung in the air (what's up with that shitty smell, anyway?? I often smell it in the outer sunset)... so i made sure my earplugs were in tight and that i exhaled vehemently during each of the 15 duckdives to the outside. Once outside it was apparent that waves were bigger than they looked from shore (surprise surprise). They were really peaky and seemed to be coming from the south. A few of the largest beasties approached 8 or 9 feet on the face, and caused much destruction in the immediate vicinity.. but then would generally mellow out instantly as this is more a windswell than a groundswell.. I squirted into about 5 or 6 rides in 40 minutes.. then came in to get to work on time. The wind started coming up more toward the end of my session and the surface looked a bit more frumpy.. soo.. you might want to get on it sooner than later.
e
cass collier wiping out at Dungeons - photo by grant ellis (grant is a chill dude from South Africa who i had the pleasure to hang with at the good ol' Swell.com house in San Clemente.. he really likes sucky waves at Salt Creek)
slater on a large left
These pics are for Friendly and all the other wahines who get sick of us cro-magnon boys always posting pics of ladies with dental-floss bikinis. I found them on Tostee.com
rochelle
keala
Looking for something nice, mellow, and housey to listen to at work? Here's a nice DJ mix to stream at http://www.deepconnect.com(click Mixes then Sound Sessions). enjoy.-Scott
Posted by: scott at January 7, 2004 10:43 AMOn the storm water thing from yesterday. It’s surprising that EPA HQ folks would take that line after the support that region IX staff gave the NRDC suits against Caltrans back in the mid 1990s. NRDC sued Caltrans over storm water runoff quality issues and NPDS permits etc. The bases for NRDC’s argument was that under the clean water act runoff has to meet the highest beneficial use, and CA declared drinking water to be the heist beneficial use (decades ago). NRDC one and a bunch of consent decrees were signed that now have Caltrans spending something like $50 million annually on storm water issues and public education – that’s where that “don’t trash Ca” add campaign came from and you’ll notice a lot more liberal use of silt fences, increased sweeping on freeways etc. check out
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/env/stormwater/index.htm
Anyhow, it’s funny to see EPA using the kid gloves after the state got beat on so badly. It would be much better had the POTW’s been sued and if they were directing all the research. Caltrans is doing a good job, but let’s face it, the results of any environmental research funded by Caltrans is not taken seriously by the rest of the world -- even if Einstein was doing the work.
Also, it misses the forest for the trees. UCD labs are currently looking at PAH content in roadway silt samples, there is a lot more oil crap in there than you might think. But when I hit the surf after a storm, it’s not oil, McDonald’s wrappers, or PAH compounds that might make me sick, it’s the bacteria. Take all this with a grain of salt, I do air quality not water quality
Posted by: New to blog Tom at January 7, 2004 11:45 AMim going Rick Griffin crazy lately, just found this interview with him and thought i would share..talking about his use of the tube in his comics..
GRIFFIN: The tube. That was really a good vehicle for changing gears in a story. Even before I realized it, how pure it was, I intuitively knew the tube is kind of like a mystery spot. When I first started surfing, I thought the object was to stand on a plank, and ride the foam in toward the shore. When I was told the object was to angle down the beach and remain in the unbroken part of the wave, and that you could actually ride inside the curl of the wave, I didn't even believe it. I said, "No, that's not possible," and was told, "Yeah, you can ride in there, and if it's a small wave you have to crouch down, and if it's a big enough wave you can stand up inside there, and actually be totally surrounded by a tunnel of moving water, and not be knocked down by it, and actually come back out of it." I really doubted that, because I always thought of a wave as a force that crashed and roared its way up to the beach. But actually what it is, the water is not the wave, the wave is the energy moving through the water, the energy lifts the water up, as the energy rolls up on the shore, and as the energy begins to sound the bottom, it's forced upwards and it pulls the water up with it, and the gravity begins to pull the water off the energy, it topples forward -- but because it has this forward momentum, it pitches out and creates a tubing curling action. The whole object of surfing is to try to get in the tube. That's the whole point to surfing, to get tubed. It's like bullfighting or any type of sport where it's one man contending with the forces of nature, whether they be in another animal -- like bullfighting -- or like skiing. Skiing can be parallel to it, but somehow surfing is really pure, because it's water, man. What needs to be said about water? Water is water, energy is energy and a wave is a combination of the two. It has inertia and momentum, and the object is to blend with it as much as you can and still retain your identity, because the tube is constantly collapsing and if you get too far back in there, it collapses and you collapse with it. You get wiped out. If you get too far out in front of it, you're out on the shoulder of the wave, and it's slower out there. You don't get that real excitement. So the tube, like I said, is always a mystery spot, and I used it to transport my character into these different realms.
heres the interview:
Posted by: bagel at January 7, 2004 12:05 PMhttp://www.tcj.com/257/i_griffin.html
nice pic's of the lady chargers - Rochelle & Keala both rip.
My wife and I met Keala in Oahu in December, great girl and she f*cking charges hard.
Posted by: d looose at January 7, 2004 12:43 PMmanatees
Posted by: e at January 7, 2004 01:04 PM
Posted by: e at January 7, 2004 01:18 PMi can't decide if i think that manatees look zen and chill...or simply sleepy! ; ) regardless, i do dig those doods. it's a shame that so many Florida boaters are more concerned about removing speed limits in intracoastal waterways than hittin' those poor suckas. in '03, FL boaters were even trying to get manatees removed from the endangered list! (presumably so that the waterways would be less regulated) thankfully, they failed in their attempt...at least this time.
okay...rant over. thanks for listening.
Posted by: ck at January 7, 2004 01:28 PMOB: sorry I'm late.... just returning from kamikaze south bay run. In any case it is EXACTLY how e described it this morning. Dumpy lumpy super peaky waist to slight overhead and southward push. No takers. All over the place seeing lots of silly looking 5-7 foot high peaks that will literally lurch out of nowhere, be only be 20-30 feet wide, then SPLAT. Oblivion. Rain off and on here last night, more rain clouds waiting for their chance..
Pertinent scientific fact of the day a la San Jose Mercury News:
" A German scientist concluded that a relaxing vacation in the sun can lower your IQ."
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 7, 2004 01:42 PM" ' 14 days of complete rest can be enough to bring your IQ down by 20 points', said Siegfried Lehrl of the University of Erlangen and Nuremberg."
" To stay smart, the doc recommends a daily game of backgammon and taking a book to the beach. "
just goes to show IQ is overrated... although a couple of bowls w/backgammon on the beach never really hurt anyone.
Posted by: bird at January 7, 2004 03:26 PMsomewhere in the indian ocean
Posted by: e at January 7, 2004 04:40 PMWas that an ad I saw on Blakestah's site? I think those Google ads are kind of cool... that is every now and then they actually advertise stuff you might be interested in.
-d
Posted by: dano at January 7, 2004 05:00 PMlong-ass tube ride
Posted by: e at January 7, 2004 05:05 PMthat's sic!
Posted by: ck at January 7, 2004 05:08 PMhey, i never said anything about cro-magnons! but thanks for the lady chargers and long-ass tube footage, e. those are the ass shots i like. :)
WEEKEND HEADS: there's the Ocean Film Fest at fort mason. if you ever tire of only learning about such things on niceness, here's a chance to get yer own smarts. and watch the four-minute ode to whitey titled, "Nobody Likes Me."
http://oceanfilmfest.org/filmprograms.html
hello? friday? is it friday yet?
Posted by: friendly at January 7, 2004 06:09 PMyo e-o that was me on the blue board this am. I figured I drove it, why not surf it. Not like it's gonna get better soon. In fact, it got worse as soon as the south picked up. A mediocre day of surf is better than... a whole lot of shit. Speaking of which, I thought the "aroma" was from the nearby treatment plant. Matches the industrial grade sand, construction debris concrete, smell of creosote and a lot of the Sloat scene, wouldn't you say? Do like the showers, though. Why don't they put those in at VFW instead of banning fires? It was good to get out and do something. Money in the bank for when the wave period gets back up to all your toes and change. What day will it turn around this time?
Posted by: banjo at January 7, 2004 10:18 PMAloha niceness,
Bumming right now as my 3 favorite boards were all stolen last night in the Mission. (Big) Doh!
I'm thinkin they may go on sale on the SF street market in the next few hours (Thursday morning), and if you happen to see these boards for sale on the street, please contact me.
At around 10pm last night, my truck was broken into at 22nd/Alabama and someone stole my grey surfboard bag with 3 boards inside.
If you happen to walk by any of the following lcoations today and see the boards for sale, please fell free to email or call me (415-999-6861). I am offering a reward, as well.
I think they may be peddled today on the street at these common stolen goods hot spots:
-Civic Center (7th and Market)
-Market next to Church, by the Safeway
-20th and Mission, near the Donut Shop
-Potrero and Army Street
Here are the details:
The bag was grey w/ blue and purple stripes and black handles..about 8' long. The boards were:
1. Dark Blue and white NorCal Matt Ambrose 7'2" pintail Gun, narrow, and very thick glass and very thick stringer. FCS, but no fins attached.
2. Bright orange 7'0" Stewart Fish, about 21" wide. SG stickers covering up dings on the underside of the nose. 1 white middle FCS fin and 2 black outer fins.
3. Very Neon Yellow, Green, and Blue 6'7" board with DaKine sticker on the top middle and large O'Neill sticker on the nose underside. FCS but no fins attached.
I drove around for hours and hours last night in the Mission and Civic Center looking for a trace of the boards but with no luck. If you see them for sale on the street, for consignment at a Surf Shop, on the beach, or in the lineup, please give me a ring.
Mahalo!
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