E's Surf Report

Ethan, I thought that was you on Sat. I was out there too and wasn't sure if that was you in that blue and yellow wetsuit. I like your style.
Anyway, waves were great and there was a lot of energy coming through pretty consistantly. Thus, there were a lot of waves to be had. All the rain we have had this winter has had a pretty pronounced effect on the bars down south. Waves are breaking in many more places than a couple months ago. Kinda opens up the lineups some.

Ah, tried to rally this a.m. but couldn't do it. 6 days in a row for me and I think I needed a break anyway. Besides, I really wasn't up for DOH or TOH mackers on the head for breakfast.

Good weekend of surf. Saw the Coffey Latte/Mocha or whatever beverage type it resembles in the water Sunday. Tight board! Glad to see E getting a new craft. What the hell was Blakestah doing at T-Bell? Just jibbing ya D-Train! Sorry to miss ya this a.m. @ Taraval!

Peeps can say what they want about Lindy but I have had 4 super fun sessions there over the last week or so. I think it had more to do with the people I got to surf with then the actual waves. But then again, they weren't bad either. Very crowded this weekend though. Lots of bouys in the water. Still fun though. Lots of drop-ins and the like but no arguments witnessed.

Bug, GET BACK TO WORK!

good comments about changing to a smaller board e.

I agree. Bigger boards are harder to surf once you are up and going down the line. If your feet aren't in just the right spot its tougher to move them to find the sweet spot. Nothing like a new board that floats and goes fast. Someday I will buy one instead of all the used garbage I buy. YIKES

Also on bigger boards you get worked much much more on duck dives at beach breaks.

right on bug.. I have big blue patches on the shoulders of my wetty.. but.. not much yellow?? (it's a loner wetty).. I have long hair and am kinda tall and lanky.. my board was mocha..

it's weird that i didn't see you out there.. I was more hangin toward the inside though.. not really battling with the pack.

Kaiser's love affair with Lindy continues!

i had a similar liason two years ago.. and sung the praises of "magic Lindy" for a few months.. until the relentless close-outs and minimal face-time brought me back to my senses.

e-good for you on the new stick. Ward has always done a good job for me. I have 3 boards by him.

It was an OB weekend ('course). Saturday am was IMO the fastest inside rip I have ever experienced at Sloat. I could see it moving north. No one was out yet so it was hard to tell what was going on outside. I jumped in, now pay attention) south of 2nd parking lot and by the time I had gotten through the horrendous inner bar on a too big board I was at...Taraval. Periodically I would turn around and look at the beach and it was was like cruising in a slow moving car, watching the scenery go by.

Sunday was hella easier, waves were cleaner but less consistent. Some fairly chucnky sets though.

This a.m. I took e's route but went to the End-of-the-line at Princeton. Looked doable but there were already about 15 guys out with only sporadic, smallish (for there) sets. Cost/benefit analysis said it was not worth using personal time off today so I bailed.

So it goes. Hope you all got some. If not there's always mañana.

yo yall! E, SUPER sick you got your new board. I'm stoked for you man. What kind of fins are on there? You may want to invest in some super-space-age technological fins..?.. Anyway, still haven't surfed in quite some time, so I've been living through everyone elses stories :) I did get to snowboard with my girlfriend on Saturday, and that was very cool! Anyway, happy monday to everyone and have a beautiful day. life is good.

e! can't wait to see the new board. sounds like 4M was fun.

surfed down at the north end of the mar on saturday morning. got some nice rides but really had to wait for 'em. when i got out i felt all itchy. long shower there and long shower when i got home.

I was riding a white Arakawa and I had a black xcel on. On my last wave, a surfed backside by you and made a kook-like attempted at dropping buckets on you while you were paddling back out. Please tell me I succeeded.

haha! nice bug.. actually.. i think you did through a little spray on me.. i remember that!
cool!

ha.. i meant.. "throw" spray.

i'm the worst speller of all time.

lerm -- What time were you out at the Mar on Sat? Got your message and looked for you but no dice. Hit it mid-beach and was reminded why I vowed never to surf Lindy on a weekend. That crowd scene absolutely blows. Fairly nice waves that day though. Saw some people ripping the inside in front of Taco Bell.

Nice on the turd, E! Last June in El Salvador, I picked up a 6'4" Matt Haut board for $60, sexy hips, healthy width, and thin. It was so magic I brought it back. So I went and grabbed a sweet Doug Haut 6'1", same type of 80s shape, and am lovin' it. Less foam makin it super buoyant, easy to paddle, easier to duckdive. Feel like some kind of suction cups sticks and stabilizes it to the wave, maneuvers almost before I think about it. Cheers to the new board Gods!

Stoked,

Gvibe

Wooohooo...the brown turd finally floats out of the shaping bay! Good to hear you finally got that thang and that it is working. It is a little weird how appropriate "brown turd" is given the recent sewer outflows with the rains.

Enjoy! Surf tomorrow???

wordup niceness!! i'm filled with warm stoke at all the juice hitting NorCal this week... sweet!! I just took a drive by the atlantic in Savannah, GA... strong offshores grooming the perfectly shaped toe-high waves. hehe. at least i'm not in the NorthEast where things are FRIGID!

sick news on the new board, e, and i'm psyched 4mile hooked it up for you. you know my opinion was that a few less inches was only going to increase your silky style... rock on!

yo, so I wanted to give BIG UPS to little wahine ripper Bethany Hamilton who returned to competition for the first time this weekend since a shark attack took her left arm... only 10 weeks since the attack, and she took Fifth in the Open Women's NSSA contest. here's the story if you missed it. she's a charger!!!

alright, i'm getting surf hungry... keep the stories coming this week amigos! lates!

right on jake. No sign of the Dwayniac either!

also.. i reread your poem/verbalization/treaty on the relationship between music and surfing and decided that i really really like it!! it's fricken dope dude! sorry i didn't tell you before.. anyway.. it's alreay all formatted and embedded into Basemag.. which is much closer to completion than ever before.. hopefully with a blitzkrieg this week i can get even closer..

I also want to mention that i saw Tom Curren play on saturday night!! He played at the Rio theater in Santa Cruz as part of this Christian surf contest awards ceremony... or something.. I wasn't expecting what he played.. he pretty much did acoustic guitar and sang songs.. His voice is actually really strong and soulful. I liked his voice! It was hilarious and great to hear him talk between songs.. totally the shy, mellow, self-depricating dude. CURREN!! he's the man! When i walked into the theater and sat down before the show started.. there was some guy on stage giving out awards.. all these kids and moms and people sitting and lounging and talking in the stands.. and.. about 4 seats down from me in the next row up.. sat Tommy Curren! i had to do a double take.. and sure enough.. there he was.. some little girl was sitting next to him and they were talking. Later when Curren was playing he dedicated a song to the little girl. It was pretty cool..

rock on, bethany hamilton! that girl is so freaking amazing. thanks for the story, jake.

i got out for the sunset at lindy on saturday, a surprisingly fun (if short) session between closeouts and shorepound. if you're looking to avoid the crowds, just wait until it's too dark to see. :) we actually had a great time. the sunset was sweet, too.

e, if you're looking for any help with basemag, drop a line. if you're still thinking paper, that sorta thing is what i do. fun stuff!

add me to the skunked column this morning. and that traffic on the return trip around rockaway really adds insult to injury. plan to try again tomorrow, see you out there.

also missed out on a session yesterday because i was at the ocean film fest, which was good. highlights for me: scot anderson's footage of a white shark feeding on a dead grey whale on a calm day off of pt reyes, and a film about sailing a 27 ft sailboat thru drake's passage in the antarctic.

going to FL for a week on Wed, and the early forecast is calling for some east coast swell while i am in indialantic - my first trip where the early forecast is promising, hope it holds.

back from a weekend cross-country skiing and general marveling admist the truly awe-inspiring sequoias of Sequoia National Park. cloudless skies, tons of snow, and (once a mile or so off the beaten path) very few tracks. absolutely frickin' amazing! if you haven't been...you really owe it to yourself to check it out! now...to matters slurfin...

first...so stoked to hear that "the turd" is in the water! (hmmm....given the recent storm-water overflows maybe i should rephrase that!) glad to hear that you dig it, e!!

second...i'm gonna come to Kaiser's defence...at least sorta. now...don't get me wrong...the beach is the place for the hook-up, but the Mar has its moments. i was noodlin' this over the weekend. maybe it's just that i've had a couple surprisingly good seshies there over the past while, but i summarize it as follows: (Pro) Schlindy CAN offer some nice waves, but (Con) all too often, the crowd there kills the pos vibe. net message...if you can score good lindy with some good peeps and somehow beat the crowd, it can be all good!

third...HUGE props to Bethany!! that girl's spirit is incredible.

Hiya niceness folks!

If any of you are the fellow who was out at Montara Saturday afternoon, enjoying the ridiculous beauty of it, and giving an out of practice, out of shape fellow (me) the encouragement to just enjoy and stay in my "comfort zone", thanks! Amazing how some friendliness from a better surfer can calm you down and get you into a few waves. Ah, and what glorious waves!
On Sunday lesser Montara snapped my friend's board (er, my board that he was borrowing, oh well), tossed him around a bit, sent us to Lindy and the difference was remarkable. Most of my water time since moving up here has been solo or darned near, the few folks in the water often very friendly--but my first Lindy sess, yikes, a million people out and not a one smiling.
So cheers to to the fellow who was pulling into racy, barrelling, solid overhead Montara on Saturday, smiling and chatting with a fellow stranger in the water!

i concur, lindy was definitely working on sat. due to fri night activities i was only up for something mellow, reluctantly passing on a rarely-working break in north pacifica for the north end of lindy, where the crowds were thick but bearable. smiles please, everyone.

looking forward to seeing the turd in action, e, congrats.

OB: ...OB is big...not all time big... but the inside is as churny and farked up as I've ever seen it! Maybe some surfable biggies on the outside but the paddle out itself looks all-time hellish. Foggy yet warmer...

Way to go on the new board, e!

4 mile was incredible on Sat. Those barrels that one longboarder was getting almost made me cry. I didn't get so many waves but it sure was fun having front row seats. I was the girl on the kinda eggy Coffey. I think I know which guy you were. Anyway, cool to read about it on your website, which I enjoy to the hilt.

I went out at lindy on Sat with my 9'er around the middle of the beach. Being out of shape, it seemed like a better bet for me than OB. So it was fun gotta admit. Only had one drop in on me out of 7 or 8 waves-a little kid on a boogie board. I just cruised along not more than 3 feet from him for at least 25 yards and he never saw me! No problem though, it is Lindy after all.

niceness crew,

Haven't read any commentary on the water temp this weekend, but I was out at the Cron on Saturday and it was absolutely head-numbing. For some reason it always seems colder there than OB. I've never worn a hoody, but I sure wish I had one this weekend.

no way steamwand!! i actually exchanged a few words with you and saw you take off on some meaty waves!! that's crazy that you read this site! Were you were the one that mentioned to me how good that longboarder was?? and then i said, "yeah.. he keeps getting into those barrels." must have been you cause there was only one wahine-charger out there.. Good on ya steamwand!

yeah, that was me. i haven't seen 4 mile that good and fun and people just having fun in years. i thought it would be much more of a zoo. i just need to keep going out on the bigger days so i have courage to go for the set waves. wish i could surf today. anyway, i love your site. read it all the time. small world...

way to radiate the positive vibes today, niceness. i'll take a moment to share that before i found this site, I didn't know anyone who saw the same things in surfing I did... the love so to speak... so it was and still is great to know ya'll.

thanks for the feedback, e, i can't wait to see the mag. and curren sounds sick! as far as music / surfing intertwining, something is up... i can think of lots of examples of either sick musicians or sick surfers crossing over successfully into the other... there's some similarity that makes it possible... flow, energy... so blokes like curren, kelly, e, and more can rock out acoustically and aquatically. sweet!

here's to infinite moments, patterns, the universe, inspirational overcoming of challenges, acceptance, and oneness.

Well, as you might have guessed, certain parts of Cruz were firing today. Before I got in I saw one macking set roll in that put lines way out into the bay. Impressive. It's no January 6, 2003 swell, but pretty good.

Hey e, funny you should put up a map of Baja. I am headed down there on Thursday. However, we're going all the way to Cabo and driving north to find some surf... or maybe just drink Pacifico ballenas in the sun.

-d

b -- sounds like you met one of the cooler locals. goodonya. there are a handful of us who don't bark at strangers. truth be told, most prefer at least one or two more faces to be out there... [cue ominous sound effects]

the 20/17sec stuff started to roll in late in the day sunday and broke a couple more guys' boards. what with the steep beach, backwash, open tubes and all, it felt like little hawaii out there. when i paddled out there were maybe 11 people in the lineup... the sets started coming in and in short order there were 7.. then 5... then just 3 left... charged it, and got spanked, but escaped intact... and happy, really wasn't in the mood to break my stick after spending the last couple days glassing and sanding...

anybody heard anything about mavs? from what i've read the condition seem good out there.

dano-

i was in cabo over xmas and new year's. the best stuff was up on the pacific side near todos santos. had a great day at cerritos. email me if you need info.

-be

Yea, Grant, I love the spot and the few who are there generally seem to have it together. I've taken some solid pummellings at her hand, but it sure does help the learning curve when you get washed in, stoked that your spine is, surprisingly, still intact, and very aware that the same mistake is not going to be healthy to repeat. Did you make it out Sat? So clean, beautifully serious. It seemed best at mid tide--I paddled out around 1, thought it faded a bit around three, four o'clock. Pure joy. Unearthly sunset too.

Ah, and I know what you mean about the ominous soundtrack. I've had some solo sessions out there , light rain, no cars in the lot, no one on the beach...brrr, pushes the mental stamina some.

Okay, so maybe Lindy isn't that bad. It could be worse:

http://www.elporto.com/video_clips/clips/hitandrun.mov

pismo

Be,

Thanks for the note... I'm sending you an email now. That's pretty much where we are headed, so it sounds we've got the right idea.

MWSF... some of those El Porto videos are sick. Some good surf there at times (as well as lots of folks in the water).

-d

another good vid from that site.

here

lerm -
i don't know if you'll see this, and it's a month late...

but i didn't hit you with my board at rockaway when i was visiting in december, did i? we got all mixed up in the soup a little bit, and then you split... so if I accidently got ya when we tangled, sorry mate!

e- I check this site all the time and wanted to chime in with kudos on such a great site. I've been getting back into surfing after a 10year hiatus (i'd only been in the water for about 1.5 years back then so i've still got a lot to learn..and that was OC).

Your comments on board sizes kinda affirmed my suspicions. i've been on an 8' fun shaped and am looking to downsize to 6'5 - 6'11...hopefully will help with the steeper drops which i've been struggling with. Are you gonna sell your old one?..or maybe i should check into a custom. decisions, decisions.

cheers - g

I rode some bombs today at Mavs!

You guys suck and should go home to the East!

All of you are bitches and I am the supreme local!

you rule, pez.

E/All,

I did not post this comment today nor the one on the 9th. I dont mind my rep being tarnished, but this coward ruining(sp) this very positive thread today is very aggrevating(sp).I am not this shallow. So please whoever you are leave this narrative alone. Please send your hatemail to me directly if you wish. Leave notes on my vehicle if you must, but please .....really please stop destroying this narrative.

E- Have fun on your new board.

pez

forgot my email

dohhh!!!!!theres a hyperlink.

Sunday OB was...robust. Inside bar had consequences. Outside a little floaty and inconsistent, but large waves to be had. Today, we'll just see. Got a couple of ideas for surf locations on a solid west. Hey, is pez bipolar?

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