glassy.. smaller.. fun
Last night there was much banter and planning and hoping for an OB session this morning. We figured it might be the only charitable opening in this parade of W and NW swells we've been hammered with. But.. for some reason it just wasn't working as of 6:45. A few nice sections would rise up and peel on the outer bars.. but usually would quickly mush-out and disapear.. then the inside was just a raucous mess of turbulence and white-water. Nobody out in the early morning but then on my way back home i spotted a few slalwart OB fans sitting way out the back waiting for sections.. I'm sure they found some. Sooo... again i ventured forth past the event horizon into Pasweetica. I noticed some interesting activity near the RV park.. but didn't have time to check it out. Smoke-a-Jay pretty darned flat. Then Lindy! much smaller than yesterday.. but.. that was actually a good thing.. because yesterday was mostly closing out and today offered quite a few shoulder-high glassy peelers. The positioning gods were somehow shining down on me this morning and i lucked into quite a few racing, steep, bowly little rights that set up perfectly for that one move off the closeout. A few times i was able to pump and cruise down the line.. then kind-of jump up with my board to meet the about-to-crash lip.. I then bounced off the crashing wave and rode it out toward shore. I had about 5 or 6 attempts at the same move and landed 2 or 3 and wiped it on 2 or 3. It was super fun and the memory of carving up the face and whacking the pitching lip warms my belly this very instant.. To keep it in perspective these wave were relatively puny and unsubstantial.. On your typical OB death-slab of a wave.. my wimpy arse would be riding over the back instead of hitting the closeout lip almost every time.
I was cool to share the lineup with Kaiser, Lerm, CK, Stan and LHGVAG. good vibes. I was really bummed to get out of the water this morning.. but.. like a fine women the surf keeps ya coming back.. i guess..
goodmorning wrote an empassioned defense of the seemingly misunderstood and apparently identity-heisted Pez. The Pez-man seems a gentle dude who just was having a weird day one day. So.. whoever's impersinating him.. maybe try another alias like, "Spongy" or "Fort Point Local" or something..
There are also reports streaming in all over the place of our man Blakestah making apearances all over bay-area lineups. I received this email from a Blakestah admirer who i'll leave anonomous..
"Anyway i was taking off my wet suit this evening at sloat, and who has been out charging, but none other than Blakestah back from injury. i thought it would be sweet for your blog to welcome him back to the line up, especially
since many of us depend on the man's skills to plan our surf fix."
Soo.. it's seems that blakestah has many fans out there.. and are psyched that their man is back ripping shit up.
sweeet..
also.. caveman just got back from Maui and sent me some unreal pics.. i'll get them up in the next few minutes.. but.. i'm runnin' late today.. so please be patient.
e & co. - good sharin' the water with ya this dawnie. i just couldn't get my groove on, but your pos vibes made it fun nonetheless. any day that starts in the water is a good day. peace.
Posted by: ck at January 14, 2004 10:59 AMDammit! I woulda shoulda gone in Lindy this morning! That was the plan...but recovering from a migraine, thought better...D'OH! Now it's raining..anyone know what water quality at pootica is/will be?
OB: raining and waist-1foot overhead: 1/3 crumby, 1/3 closeout, and 1/3 mushy - either all 3 on the same wave or a mixture of 1-3 types. Of course it is kinda stormy and the inside is farkled. But! Rides to be found - seeing a couple of peeps on their own peak catching some fast but funny ones - biggest about 1 foot overhead, rides look speedy but deceptively short! Wave kinda putters out at the end. It actually looks pretty fun. Either that or I'm hallucinating.
Cheers!
Posted by: s.s. selfskunkbait at January 14, 2004 10:59 AMbtw...that first pic from caveman is unreal!! fizzyeah!!
Posted by: ck at January 14, 2004 11:00 AMgreat surfing with ya all. stan, i thought that was you. shoulda asked. kaiser, nice ballet maneuvers off the closeout!
Posted by: lerm at January 14, 2004 11:07 AMAh, thanks Lerm. Be more than happy to show you the finer points to the move. As you may have witnessed this a.m., my backside attack is second to none! The way I get complete stablility upon take-off with dead-straight legs and the hunch-over is simply awe-inspiring! I hate to toot my own horn, but it is a thing of beauty! HA...
Great line-up this morning. Glad to share some waves out there.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 14, 2004 11:50 AMAloha,
We've got winds gusting 30+ mph right now on Oahu especially windward and country. The first of many giant swells came and went, but the big daddy will be arriving later tonight and peaking before sunrise. If the winds die down, tomorrow should be a monster Waimea and outer reef day. Word is that the Eddie won't be held b/c ASR in Florida has all the sponsors on the right coast. The storm track looks active. I'll keep you posted as this swell passes the islands on the way to Cali.
Posted by: bagus at January 14, 2004 11:57 AMumm...bagus? did i mention how frickin' jealous i am?! ; ) way to live the dream. please continue to keep us posted from paradise!
Posted by: ck at January 14, 2004 12:03 PMhump day
Posted by: lerm at January 14, 2004 12:12 PM"Surfing is cool, so I may stick around a little longer," added Joe, a student who surfed a lot on the East Coast. "San Francisco's not really good for surfing," he admitted, but he may buy some gear to take down to SoCal.
http://www.sfbg.com/38/16/x_biznews.html
Posted by: big g at January 14, 2004 12:20 PMmike morrissey kick flip
Posted by: lerm at January 14, 2004 12:24 PMyes, sf sux for surfing. socal is better. move to socal. there are no good waves here.
Posted by: lerm at January 14, 2004 12:30 PMThe storm track is setting up very similar to last years from late January. Monster swells form and smash into the North Shore (including Jaws), and we get somewhat smaller swells a few days later. Look for the current North Shore swell to hit us late Saturday.
Real fun grabbing some outer bar action last night. Probably my most stoked wave each year is the first solid outer bar wave...when I recall what winter surf can be like after 6+ months of NorCal summer.
Posted by: blakestah at January 14, 2004 12:33 PMheard 2 pacifica local dudes got sick and were hospitalized for 9 and 10 days respectively. one guy almost DIED!
rashes, etc. from the water and resulted in a staph infection.
i believe although am not sure that they are buddies so there may be another commonality but currently the common theme for the cause was the posted high bacteria dirty water level signs they walked past at linda mar during the rains at the end of the year/new years
both remain out of the water and are much lighter and weak. not sure if they were surfing in front of the creek or what but when the sewage system breaks down in pcfca under deluge of rains......i think it is fair to say that is the day to go buy a video....
the water is always dirty and probably not everyone get's sick but it has been recomended to me to get vaccinated against hepatitia and meningitis (for all surfing in ca.) including santa cruz which has run off problems.
this is not meant to scare anyone from the cluttered lineups just as an FYI. so make your own decisions and good luck to you...
Posted by: at January 14, 2004 12:42 PMuuu ya! looks good.. (hope it doesnt keep updating...)
Posted by: bagel at January 14, 2004 01:38 PMdoh! sorry anti cam heads..
see, the thing with that post was; at the time there was a left that looked really good but deceptive..there lay the humor in that one, now that post has become stupid and or lame..
Posted by: bagel at January 14, 2004 01:43 PMHey e, ck, lerm, kaiser and lhgvag and others whose names i dunno. again, an honour to share the water with such great heads. not the best conditions for my own choice of gear today (not to mention ability, i guess) but happy some of yous were able to do stuff with the small ones - regardless, the whole gig was good enough to get a stoke going for the whole day. so thanks for the positive vibes yall.
Posted by: Stan at January 14, 2004 02:01 PMI can vouch for the sickness and staph infections thingy. I got a staph infection on my scalp last week from surfing Pathetica, along with some nasty rashes.
Posted by: Paul at January 14, 2004 02:09 PMI posted some new pics on my site this week, some old but most are from Dec. Paul ferraris
Posted by: paul at January 14, 2004 02:11 PMJust to set the record straight - I just got back Brazil. A good friend of mine that lives in Maui took those pics. The last pic is from in front of his house!
After surfing in Brazil, I'm looking forward to seeing the niceness crew in the cold water (yeah right).
Posted by: caveman at January 14, 2004 02:32 PMd'oh.. sorry about that caveman..
Posted by: e at January 14, 2004 03:16 PMJessica
Posted by: e at January 14, 2004 03:18 PMblaahaaaha! penguins are awesome.
Posted by: bbr at January 14, 2004 03:21 PMYa, that penguin clip is friggin funny...
Pretty lame quote in the article about the new Hawaiian-themed ice cream/surf shop in the old Manhattan Bagel storefront in the Haight. At first, I thought the quote was from the owners, then I realized it's from some guy who happened to be in the shop. Walked past there a few times but haven't caught it open. If they're gonna do Hawaiian ice cream, they've gotta have shave ice...
Posted by: mwsf at January 14, 2004 04:23 PMpapa buoy's feelin' it.. 16ft 16seconds..
fark!!
The islands are feelin' the juice too.. we're gonna get slammed. so much for peaceful little dawn-patrols..
Posted by: e at January 14, 2004 04:38 PMniceness, you saved me today! not for any particular reason...i think i just wanted to pretend i wasn't working. gracias! see you in the water. (um, after 16@16 passes us by.)
Posted by: friendly at January 14, 2004 05:09 PMHey goodmorning thanks for your kind words. Shit they almost brought me to tears. I sincerely regret making an arse of myself with that post. I was indeed feeling the holiday woes and was probably slightly envious of everyone elses cheer. I also felt slightly belittled in that I aspire to someday be a true hellman like some that charge BIG OB. I would love to someday stand in front of JAWS like Greg Noll and envision myself on that one "glory" wave. Better yet I want to get to the point where I can except not getting that wave.
Lately, its been way too easy for me to loose prespective and forget how lucky we all are to do what we do on any day. Unfortunately it sometimes takes seeing a fellow surfer(Troy from Pacifica a very, very strong and accomplished surfer) sidelined due to a neck injury duck diving in 4ft surf or speaking to that Brazilian cat who almost drowned @ Mavs the other day...and just reading these posts of peeps loving surfing for surfing and having a good time to bring it all back together. Something my reactionary,agressive and competative tendencies sometime cloud. I have issues no doubt, but I aint goin out like dat.
Its funny I havent truely enjoyed my surf since that day of the post until yesterday, when a few folks joined me @ the north end of Rockaway. I wasnt pissed that my solo session ended because I thought of you E and your friends. I smiled at these cats and cheered for them as they were enveloped in nasty close out barrels. It wasnt good surf at all but it certainly was a good time.
Thanks again goodmorning and thanks again E for inspiring me in surf, but more importantly in spirit.
peace
pez
Posted by: pez at January 14, 2004 07:04 PMSuper fun OB today. Around 2pm absolute glass with nice offshores at Sloat, pretty sets rolling through, head-high to 2-3 feet overhead, no paddle out at all. Many people were chasing the inside section in front 1st lot since the high tide (3 feet) was squashing the outside some, but the bigger sets would still break top to bottom.
Not a gargantuan amount of power behind them, and they'd do the all-too-typical fizzle right after impact, but some great drops. What a gorgeous day. Sun peeking behind the clouds then a little rain then more sun.
Then around 4:00 another wave of energy started showing up and the sets got significantly bigger and longer. Beautiful sunset too.
Posted by: wrybread at January 14, 2004 08:31 PMpara que tengas un motivo para reirte sanamente.
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