large at the beach.. fugly at the 'mar
Big, raw and no doubt penalizing at Ocean Beach this morning. In the pre-dawn light all you could really see was a soupy quagmire of disorganized white-water. Enough to know that the surfing experience would most likely be unpleasant. On my way back i watched a few gorgeous, serious-looking A-frames grind and hammer on the outer bars. If you somehow locked into to one of those you'd probabably enjoy an exhilerating, high-speed ride.
P-town just wasn't really working. Tons of people in the lot at the 'mar.. but.. barely any peeling waves to be found. A few in the south-center of the beach.. smaller ones. For the most part this 270 degree swell is getting blocked from coming into the Linda Mar cove by Pedro Point.
I'm sure there will be many incredible waves on offer up and down our coastline as the tide recedes. Find your favorite low-tide, anti-crowd spot and hit that shit super hard. Because.. as some cheezy song describes, "these are the days!"
- Solid west swell
- Offshore winds
- Lower tide throughout the day
- No weekend crowds
This is the pinnicle of the season here in cen/nor-cal. Enjoy!
random thoughts:
- What would it be like to exist within the mind of another human... ala Neuromancer or Being John Malkovitch? If you had the opportunity to live within someone else's mind for an hour who's would it be?
- Do you ever consider the possibility that there is some conscious entity observing all things happening within your own mind? Some rider on your personal experiencial universe.
- Is the average level of personal happiness within our society any greater or less than in societies past?
- Does organized religion have a net positive or negative effect on American society?
- Succulent, head-high pointbreak perfection will be breaking all over the planet long after humans are extinct.
- What organism will dominate the earth after humans?
- Is orgasm the single most poignant, god-given moment of pleasure known to man?
hmmm..
photos from wavelust.com
I got denied this morning at OB. First time in 3 years, I think I'm still a little out of shape from the shoulder, or it was just too relentless. Started at the south end, got out when I reached the promenade...too much juice. Our Brazilian niceness peep was heading to the reef to get his own two wave hold-down and blown-thru-the-rocks experience.
I'm tired.
Posted by: blakestah at January 16, 2004 10:31 AMgood on ya blakestah!
check out this paragraph by sfgate columnist mark morford.
"Marriage is, in truth, just one weird messy culturally endorsed facet of the massive, overarching, impossibly powerful love impulse that
fuels, engorges and enrages the entire species at all times and in all places across the entire known and unknown universe. Simple, really."
http://sfgate.com/columnists/morford/a/
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 10:53 AMBlakestah!
You didn't tell me you ended up at the promenade.
You gotta love the Paddle/Board-carry Biathlon sessions.
Only matched by the Paddle/wetsuit-drive-to-lindamar/closeoutchase Triathlon.
If nothing else its a good work out for your shoulder eh?
Posted by: Friend #1 at January 16, 2004 11:07 AMHey e - if that was you driving by eaarrrly this am waving while I was hosing off the car, then thanks! I got up super early to check the beach but when I saw you heading south knew it was a no-go at the north end and likely whole beach. No time for 'mar drive.
OB: hither and tither. It's all over the place, every shape and size and direction. Seeing some definite south (? huh ) Very peaky and powerful. Whether it's shoulder high or 2 foot overhead it's throwing the water hard. There might be some surfy peaks but it'll be quite the effort to get out...OB's looking kinda mean today!
No reports 'til next Thurs...outta town, then hitting the water again at last! Er, literally for sure...Cheers...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 16, 2004 11:26 AMthat was me sharkbait! good to see ya.
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 11:35 AMe, you've gone socrates on us today....i liked your random thoughts.
organized religion...you know, i had to go to church as a kid and what i remember is running through a big empty sanctuary, ringing huge handbells we found in a closet, and hearing stories about people who did good things for no apparent reason. true or not, that was my takeaway. good memories, net positive.
but all of the experiences i'd consider truly spiritual have been outside. most while climbing and surfing. that's what hooked me in the first place, actually...the feeling of being totally engulfed in nature (at moments, literally).
anyway: i opted against lindy this AM, so i'm sort of happy to read i didn't miss much. :) happy weekend, niceness.
Posted by: friendly at January 16, 2004 11:49 AMFriend #1 I love your description of olympic events. How about the "Blue face hold down salt water and sand enema competition?" Or the "High tide at the Lane try to make the stairs two step?" My personal favorite held at a spot near Devil's Slide: "It didn't look that big from the bluff oh my God what am I doing out here?"
Posted by: Bruce at January 16, 2004 11:50 AMsanta cruz yesterday
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 12:26 PMI'm hoping that that it cleens up with the tide change...I'll be the slow padleing guy getting worked this afternoon :)
Posted by: new to the blog tom at January 16, 2004 12:45 PMoy, santa cruz, so close but yet so far..theres some philosiphising for ya..almost drove to the jetty this morning but cut my losses after i looked at linda..nice job charging ob, looked like if you could get out and had a big enough board, there were some freight trains..
Posted by: bagel at January 16, 2004 12:56 PMob vid from a few days ago
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 02:51 PMwww.surfvid.com/video/011304.wmv
socal today
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 03:38 PMIs it just me, or has the jetty really sucked over the past couple of seasons? I recall having many really fun sessions there a few years ago. It was often a good call when everything else was out of control. Maybe it was best during El Nino? I've almost given up driving the extra distance to check it out.
Posted by: Bruce at January 16, 2004 03:44 PMI agree Bruce.. a good Jetty session has been a rare thing lately. I feel like it needs that big NW swell and a little north in the wind... and also a lower tide.
e
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 03:50 PMjetty sessions? maybe 6-8 years ago. i remember days where it would wedge up near the rocks and throw out nice fat barrels and a good right hander. havent seen waves like that there in soooooo longggggg.
Posted by: dsx at January 16, 2004 03:56 PMblakestah-was that you making the attempt at Sloat at about 7:30? I stopped briefly, contemplated your agony and passed. Had I known it was you...........
Posted by: kdalle at January 16, 2004 04:14 PMpat o
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 04:14 PMfrom sarge's site
j-bay
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 04:18 PMhttp://www.surfingthemag.com/pulse/01_15_04_noll/
Good read.
Also, something like 30 new companies at the ASR show this year.
Hmmmm.
Posted by: Kaiser at January 16, 2004 04:30 PM
Posted by: e at January 16, 2004 04:33 PMahh! that last pic! Where is it?! teleport!!!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 16, 2004 05:58 PMkdalle - that was probably me. Only two people tried it close to dawn, both stuffed.
Funny, too, b/c this afternoon guys were making it trivially, and complaining about the lulls being overcoming. This morning, non-stop - wave after wave.
My neck hurts.
We gotta surf soon.
Posted by: blakestah at January 16, 2004 09:06 PMAh, Hawaii...
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Ah, HMB...
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Ah, SF...
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Ah, Old Skool Zinka...
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Posted by: Kaiser at January 19, 2004 10:21 AMJust a heads up that E's is going to be up and down over the next couple days. My landlord is moving our electric lines from overhead to underground and since E's is hosted on a server sitting in the corner of my kitchen, there will likely be outages while they do that. The landlord claims outages will only happen sporadically from 8am to 4pm over the next two days.
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