E's Surf Report

Sunday at PP looked pretty epic (of course I missed it except for some marginal photos). It was still solid early on Monday with only eight or so guys out on the highish tide! Still some long and very fast waves when you could get into them.

Well i will help ethans photos from Swift St. ...crazy i was out at swift from aroun 12-2:30 pm. i dunno what you look like but i know i was having serious fun. that down coast current was great, kept all those weak SC boys from clogging the take-off zone at the main peak. the second peak was wierd. after the main wave would move down the point and close out i would pull out sit and wait for another set and grab one that closed out on the next guy, then late in the day i surfed the cove area after 2 waves down the point and a lot of paddling i was done going back up. here are some pics...

OB was awesome on saturday. 10' faces and really fun... here is a morning shot and an evening shot. looks like it was picking up around 4pm. i didnt check it sunday...just went straight to SC.

OB was really clean on monday super glassy. really nice thick peaks coming in, but also kinda wierd in that waves wer really coming out the south and SW and it would come in really mixed up, lots of peaks that would meet and close out. all in all 3 great days.

e,

Stoked to read you scored some excellent waves this weekend down in SC. Totally agree with you on the surfers needing to know their limits. Sorry to read you wereon the receing end of someone elses f*ckup. Sounds like you showed some great restraint in your response.

I had little time for driving for surf this weekend so had two sessions at the jetty. Small, but fun. Nice to have some playful waves available even when the seas are macking.

Just a heads up that E's is going to be up and down over the next couple days. My landlord is moving our electric lines from overhead to underground and since E's is hosted on a server sitting in the corner of my kitchen, there will likely be outages while they do that. The landlord claims outages will only happen sporadically from 8am to 4pm over the next two days.

dsx! great photos! thanks for posting them! It sounds like you were much smarter than i in terms of where to paddle out on sunday. I didn't know about the rapidly flowing current so made the mistake of paddling out at mitchell's cove and instantly being the last man down the line. I should have paddled out at Swift street and connected rides all the way through like you did.
live and learn.

sunday on the central coast (dirt pic)

holy lord, thats a bombardment of imagery..beauty..wish i could have got down there..got some fun ones though..

siiiiiiiiiiiiick!! sounds like a rediculous weekend! now truly is THE season in norcal. all the pictures are great!! Mmmmmmm, west side. way to charge e and others! stoked!!

i disagree with you about surfing a spot where you're not totally confident. i think surfing a relatively uncomfortable spot helps refine your technique there. i've gotten some good experience at hard spots that i wouldn't have gotten if i surfed ob or some other familiar place. each wave is different and if you don't expose yourself to the different waves, you're unlikely to master them.

also, i think that mike guy is an idiot. last time i saw him surfing he was showing off by spitting on birds. very impressive. that guy is a model human. plus he was a jerk to you yesterday for an honest mistake.

e - Sorry to hear you got nailed! I must admit that I have (rarely) bailed my board when faced with HUGE waves busting right on top of me - but ONLY after checking the immediate area to be sure that I am not endangering anyone else. Conversely, I have also wrapped my arms and legs around my board, clinging to it at all cost in big surf, when there are other surfers close by. I'm an old guy, we had no leashes when I was a kid. Bailing your board in big waves could mean a long and, sometimes, scary swim - not to mention incurring the considerable rath of one's betters.
At the risk of sounding like an alarmist, if you heard a crack and still have a lump 4 days later, it might be a good idea to see the doctor. A possibly fractured skull can get complicated real quick.
O.k., lecture over. Thanks for the weekend update, I was trapped at home for the last few days conducting some vital computer maintenance - there was some very wierd/scary shit going on with both mine and my son's registries.
I did get a brief glimpse at VFW and Taraval Street in the early afternoon on Sunday. Right at the foot of Fulton Street there was a big, pounding left breaking fairly close inside. Tarraval was big and confused looking - peaks all over the place. Nobody was in the water at either spot. Big waves coming from the southwest - very wierd looking swell direction - what was up with that, blakestah?

Damn, I wish I would have hit it Sunday too! Sounds like you scored E! I was stoked on Saturday's mission all weekend. I can only imagine what it looked like Sunday!

Current Report: Both yesterday and today looked marginal at our local spots. Doable if you haven't surfed in a bit or were just curious. Looked like a few fun shoulders on the extreme high tide at our favorite south-wind-loving-high-tide break. Neither yesterday or today did I paddle out. Guess it wasn't that appealing to me.

On the topic raised by E and talked about above, I think this is a "fine-line" topic. I agree with Allen that it is HUGE for your surfing to paddle out into waves that push your ability. HOWEVER, you still have to have respect for the locale, the wave, the energy, the people and just to the overall setup for the mere fact it is "different" to you. Each and every time I enter Santa Cruz County, I get all butterflied-out. Anywhere in Hawaii, same deal. And these are places I have surfed a lot. But, it is not my norm and therefore I have to have MORE RESPECT then normal. At least this is my feeling. To me, this holds true even for those places nearby that I never surf. I say charge it but respect it!

do you know how to get in touch with goin to order his boards

I don't know what is up with the swell direction. Previous year's we've had 270 degree swells and they came in reasonably clean. These swells came from huge areas of fetch, so they were raw despite the large distance traveled. But, something else was funky with the bars. I cannot remember when the last time we had this many clean W/SW swells in winter - not in the last 10 years, that is for sure.

Saturday night looked like an ad for perfect surf. Sloat st. No one out. One lone guy suits up in the parking lot. Glassy 8-10 ft faces mack and peel as he paddles out to the peak.

My shoulder/neck are still hurting from my attempted paddle-out Friday morning, but I really want to hit it this arvo...

allan.. i think you have the wrong mike. Blakestah's friend Mike is a mellow, good-vibed guy. and it was totally my fault that i got in his way yesterday. He's a solid surfer too.

you said, "disagree with you about surfing a spot where you're not totally confident. i think surfing a relatively uncomfortable spot helps refine your technique there."

I agree with this logic.. But NOT when a surfer's lack of experience becomes an impediment to everyone else out there... and NOT when said spot is packed to the gills with frothing, ripper locals. Some spots just require that you be a good surfer before you even give it a try. For instance, i just WOULD NOT EVER paddle out at Pipeline in waves over head-high. maybe if it was empty.. but out of respect for the people out there.. i'd keep my kooky ass out of their way and on the beach watching.. But.. maybe after 6 or 7 more years of charging OB and Indo and surfing everyday.. i'd been confident and able enough to navigate a small head-high day at pipeline and catch a few?? doubtful but maybe. I'd also have the werewithal to respect those who deserved respect and not get in their way. It's ok to blow a takeoff or two if you just uncharacteristically bungle it. It's not cool if you're out there blowing most of your takeoffs, causing waves to go unridden when the lineup is packed with frothing, talented surfers. It's also not cool to endanger other surfers by pulling inexperienced moves like starting to paddle for a set wave when six people deeper than you are already paddling for it and people are trying to get out of those six people's way and you're clogging up the escape route by not realizing that you should also be paddling for the horizon so as not to get caught inside.. Basically.. if you're intent on surfing localized/crowded spots but your surfing level isn't super high.. then be content with sitting way down the line and picking off scraps. you'll find that you'll actually score more rides than you would while battling in the pack and you also won't receive the stinkeye you might otherwise get.

just my 2 cents. coming from a dude whose gameplan at most crowded spots is picking off scraps on the inside.

ahh surfing!!

santa cruz-area sunday (stinkeye pic)

kaiser and e, i think you've both explained the proper etiquette at advanced spots. in fact, yesterday i was bungling too many drops to stay out (plus the surf dropped to tiny). but i also saw many of the better guys blowing take offs too. so i think that goes w/the territory.

if blakestah's friend mike is the one who yelled at e yesterday, it's the same immature guy that i was talking about. i don't care how good you are, there is a certain level of manners that should be observed too. if it's an honest mistake it doesn't take yelling, swearing and name calling to make a point. the majority of good surfers out there have been taught common decency.

while others ran...some stayed and faced the beast. Alex goes big mid morning Sunday http://www.mavsurfer.com -but pays for it (he had to be helped out of the water and from what I hear.....a visit to the local emergency room was in order). Alex you charge!!!!!

while you are debating ....

click on mavsurfer.com and see our friend alex martins on a bomb of a wave that the line up and gallery were gasping on and that would break 2 of his ribs a little further down the line.

christian put together a solid wave count on the friday and sunday swells as well. yellow board matt snagged his first ever wave, too on sunday. and ob brazo danilo took a left on his 8 '6" also his first day out there.

It's fun to give credit where it is due...

talk about blowing endless take-offs and screaming and yelling at people while surfing there is that fat, red faced, blonde guy who is always on it. he is such a joke!

Cheers folks, looks like it was an amazing weekend! Great pics. Can't believe I've been sick in bed for almost a week. aarg. I think e just perfectly summed up the 'when and where and how' of learning and approaching new breaks. Anyone who is in this stage, or is thinking they might be, and is not already approaching their waves as e suggests, ahhh, you're probably in the wrong place.
...these types of discussions always leave me wondering just where I stand. which means I haven't been in the water nearly enough. need this fever to go away.

welp, in the meantime thanks for the pics and ongoing stoke!

don't piss him off

good on ya Tom..

cheers to all those crazy hell-chargers who push limits out there at Mavs and big OB.. when the rest of us are battling for meager 3 foot point-break scraps.. there are those out at lonely OB charging double-overhead beasts all by themselves and are truly living the dream!

Christian and Alex!! Fuck yeah!

christian is too modest.

He was also out there Sunday, grabbed two waves, rode the second the full length of the reef, and decided that as all his body parts and surfing parts were intact, he could declare victory for the day.

Good on ya.

wow. That shot of Alex is downright scary. The niceness at mav's...goodonya guys. It's a pretty great thing having a friendly forum that is so inclusive, top to bottom.

nice! sf brazilian mafia take over!..that wave looks sick..quick recovery to Alex, how did the rib's break??..i met that danilo dude one time, smoked some leaf with him im my buddys subaru, didnt know he was such a hellian, maybe a different danilo..

like blakestah said about the big red-haired guy. steer clear.

i met his kids the other day.

e & co....gettin' slammed at werk today so haven't had a chance to read all of the postings, but it sounds like folks scored this weekend!! soooo sweeeet! (though, e, i'm sorry to hear of your episode with the projectile/mishandled longboard. that sucks.)

i hit SLO county with a couple of amigos and my lady-charger and had a risiculous weekend!! sunny skies, mostly offshore/side-off light breezes, and TONS o' swell! it seemed like all of the reefs, beaches, nooks & crannies were lighting up! some of the line-ups were a bit crowded, but the vibe was pos. we skipped the most alluring reefs given the crowds, opting instead for short...sometimes punishing...but always fast and exciting waves at less popular/more crowd-friendly breaks. the "fight the crowd to score only a few epic waves" vs. "scoring tons of waves on a peak populated by only your buds" dilemma is a tough one, but, this weekend, we opted for the latter and had a killah time!

see you heads out there!

Mike? blakestah's friend Mike, the Coast Guard guy? Very mellow/friendly - even towards the likes of me when I'm on a longboard.
Re: pushing yourself at spots that may be just beyond your current skill level - suck 'em up and paddle out. JUST STAY OUT OF THE WAY! You gotta be content with scraps, especially on crowded days.
Years ago, I was lucky enough to be shown around and introduced to some of "the fellas" at a nearby sketchy spot by a couple of friends, both of whom are lifelong locals. It has a very tight lineup and a very narrow take-off zone. I continued to hesitate going out there, simply because it was unfamiliar & a little spooky. I was down there checkin' it one day and my friend says (in a slightly disgusted tone), "So, what are you doing, conducting another survey, or are you gonna get in the water?" So ... I got in the water. I kept away from the peak for nearly an hour. Eventually, I realized that I was NEVER gonna get a wave unless I lined up and took a turn. Finally, I got my first wave, and got hooted by one of the regulars as I dropped-in . That encouraged me. I got a few more waves and had a blast. Still, it's not my favorite place to surf and I have only been out there a few times. If there are more than just a few surfers already on it, I will not paddle out. It's not that it's a heavy wave (it isn't), and it's not the vibe - maybe it's the grey in my beard, or my friendship with a couple of key guys, I always get respect there ... It's the take-off zone. There is really only one place to catch the wave. If there are more than six, or eight surfers on it, it's too crowded for me. Sometimes guys who have known each other for years are out there, pushing one another higher and higher into the peak and it just gets stupid. I'd rather not contend with that. Besides, (forgive me blakestah, I'm gonna play the "age card" here - he hates it when I do that) at my age, my overall/top skill level has probably come and gone. I was NEVER gonna surf Mavericks, BIG Pipe, or Teahupoo - it was just not in me to surf at that level. Nowadays, how well I'm surfing - and consequently how willing I am to surf a certain spot - has more to do with HOW OFTEN I have been surfing, rather than my overall experience. I have to be surfing regularly and feeling GOOD to surf Ocean Beach when its more than shoulder to head-high. If I'm getting ready to take a trip and possibly get into some challenging surf, I'll surf Ocean Beach as much as possible. Last year on Bali, after weeks of OB thrashings, I was right there, catching waves with maniacal Aussie teenagers at Ulu - and overhead Medewi was like surfing at Pedro on a regular day.

good story by Scott Bass that kind-of touches on some of the things discussed today.

There were only four guys out. Buddies, they surfed together this day and were generally stoked, as they should’ve been, the waves were surprisingly fun. A spit of south wind had textured the lineup, making it look less than ideal. But the dredging nature of the low-tide cleaned up the wave faces just enough.

I stroked over to my usual spot, lining up just left of the street on the hill. Sitting up on my board, head down, arms relaxed and waiting, I gave off no airs, no overt signs of territorialism, no coughing, clearing of the throat or spitting. None of the signals you might witness from an insecure male surfer attempting to stake his claim in a crowded lineup.

As I waited, one of the guys, a longboarder, paddled just a little past me, swung around on an incoming wave and paddled furiously. His paddling technique, or lack thereof, was such that, with each dip of the arm, he bobbed side-to-side. Anxiety and a single-minded determination poured from his furrowed brow. He was going to catch this wave, port-to-starboard bobbing by damned.

The wave also came to me, and I felt it was my turn, so I too turned to go.

The longboarder dropped in and I hesitated at the top, let him pass me, and dropped in behind. He had no idea. All was fine. We both bottom turned and drew our boards up to mid –face on the wave. Not surprisingly he caught a rail, so I drew my line even higher, going around him on the top half of the wave. “Hey, what the hell is this ****,” he cried out confrontationally as he and his board sank. I rode on for another 25 yards or so.

As I paddled back out the four buddies stared me down. I could tell they weren’t happy, and I struggled internally with what had just happened. I had meant no evil. There was no malice. I simply rode behind a longboarder on a wave I sincerely believed to be mine. But uncertainty crept into my conscience. Perhaps I was wrong. By the time I reached the lineup I wasn’t sure.

“I asked my buddies if you were an asshole,” the longboarder shouted out to me with derision highlighting the word ‘asshole’. “And that last wave pretty much confirmed it.”

I paddled into the mix, sat up on my board and began reasoning with them. “Look,” I said, my voice projecting as if I was super-sizing my order through a slightly opened car window. “We can take turns or we can hassle each other. You tell me how you want to play the game, and I’ll play it. How do you guys want to do this?”

Nobody answered; they just sort of muttered some stuff, so I re-positioned the question into a statement. “Ok,” I said pointing to the furthest buddy outside as a great five-foot set wave approached. “It’s your turn. Go man. Go!”

I genuinely and sincerely cheered him on, as I wanted to diffuse the situation. I simply wanted order. I mean, there were only five of us out.

Unfortunately, the guy couldn’t pull it off. With all of us, myself and his buddies, watching him, cheering him on no less, he couldn’t catch the wave. An entire set of waves went by--good waves, five-foot set waves—all unridden. One by one, the buddies had each missed their chance.

I was a little perturbed. Now I may or may not have been an asshole on that first wave, it depends on who you ask. But to call me out and then not be able to back it up with some semblance of performance (just catch the friggin’ wave) was absurd.

“I’m a little out of sync,” the one buddy shrugged to me. He must’ve known a lineup foul had occurred, because he made his way to the channel to sit beside his friends, none of whom could show face at the take-off spot.

I was now by myself, in position, without a soul around as another five-foot set approached. I looked over to the four buddies in the channel and a light went on. “Thank goodness for kooks,” I thought to myself. I felt somewhat vindicated for my past…ahemm…indiscretion (all right, all right, I was an asshole!).

A beautiful outside wave was feathering and I awoke from my self-induced hero worship by hustling to get into position. I was all alone, too alone. This wasn’t right. I had too much time, too much space. Worst of all, I began to think.

“Am I too deep? Don’t forget the boil. Make sure to stall. Is this wave even going to break. What did I have for breakfast?”

A Zen moment this was not.

It was going to be a late drop. I swung around, took two strokes and free fell into a late, but very makeable drop. The four buddies in the channel were actually hooting as they stroked furiously towards the shoulder. “This wave will show them,” I thought haughtily, as my hideously frail and over blown ego almost burst out of my Gath helmet. “My performance on this wave will be the final nail in the coffin. I was right! I am right! Complete acquittal and total vindication was only a bottom turn away!”

And then horror of horrors, I pearled deep and hard. And right in front of all four kooks.

As I spun underwater, embarrassed and certainly misunderstood, all I could think of was taking my rightful and earned spot in the channel next to my brethren. Thank goodness for kooks—myself foremost amongst them.

Afternoon OB report: no photos sorry...just got a quick 1.5 hour utility session at sloat. REALLY GOOD! super clean glass, clean peaks coming in. i grabbed several lefts and rights before heading back to work.

when i paddled out at 11:30 there was one other guy out. in all my years at the beach i have never seen such clean conditions with no one out.

the size is fading FAST though it is still a bit overhead and breaking on the 2nd bars when i left it was looking worse maybe just smaller.

Good to hear Christian and the like were out at the Big Hair-Ball! I was wondering why I haven't seen any smiling Brazo's out at OB lately. Glad to hear you guys have been getting yours out there. No better peeps I would rather see getting their thing going out there!

So, anyone surf today? What the hell? It seems like it cleans up mid-day from what I have been seeing during the DP routine.

bc

Just to add an idea to the surfing a new spot topic.

to me its pretty simple in the bay area, if you want to improve your surfing surf OB when its 2x overhead. once you have that down, and the paddle out is no biggy and you feel good taking off late and/or behind the peak. then you are ready for almost anything you can find within 4 hours driving (not Mavs).

take those new skills and your confidence to a new spot, find your way to the right spot to take off and be mellow, dont paddle around people for position, dont take-off on guys, give a smile, a thumbs up or whatever you need to do to create postive energy, avoid the ass-holes (you can spot them a mile away).

that my 2 cents

...after growing up as a kid in a super heavy local scene in LA i have found that in recent years localism is on the decline and if you are chill and show some respect you will most likely get it back. i have never had any problems in Cali with localism and i have paddled out in dozens of so called "scenes" from san diego to sf. i stick to a simple rule: keep your head down, your attitude in the car and surf well.

well said dsx..

Wait - do we need to steer clear of a big red-faced, blond-haired guy or a big red-haired guy? I can't be worrying about both.

ha.. nice one redworm.. i guess the guy has blondish/reddish hair.. he's a big dude. maybe 40 years old? I've shared the lineup with him probably 20 or 30 times and he's never given me any problems.. but i'm definitely NOT bumping rails with him or trying to compete for waves. I'd say he's relatively judicious in the very infrequent verbal lashings he dishes out (I've seen him yell at people for dropping in on him). but never yell at anyone for no reason. He's definitely a seasoned veteran of the SF surf scene.

Hey niceness crew:
Sweet pics from the weekend
Trying to plan a Hawaii tip for end of May beginning of June. Which island would you visit and what town. Would love to find a house away from the resorts. I was thinking the North shores may be blown out by onshores.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Greg

Just back from gettin' a couple at Ocean Beach. Jeeze, I'm in lousy shape! Paddle was a bit more work/waves were a bit bigger/session was a bit more fun than it looked like from the parking lot. Saw Judith the body-surfer - in fact I was right behind her when I was paddling out. Well, at least for a while - she soon left me far behind. She is unbelieveable! Looked to be solid head-high+ - maybe bigger on the biggest sets. Anybody else get out late this arvo?

The big red-faced blond-haired guy is a friend of mine. He may be loud at times, but I have never seen him unreasonable or irrational. He is also a working parent of two, who doesn't get nearly as many waves as he used to, and cherishes the moments he does. He is fulla stoke. But he is not raised in SF.

I wouldn't recommend rudely dropping in on him, but I also wouldn't recommend leaving when he shows up.

more surf tomorrow, or so it seems, I am back on injured reserve for a few weeks I think

Greg-

RE: Oahu. Push your trip forward 2 mos or back one. You are headed out during prime pool skating months- not much good surf, too late for the North Shore, too early for town. Sometimes Sandy Beach works during May/ June, but it'll be hit or miss. Pretty much the same on the Big Island too, can't say the others but likely the same.

J.

blakestah - wait a minute, are all these folks who are talking about the "big, blonde-haired, red faced guy" referring to our friend Big Tim?

BTW, sorry to hear that you are hurting again - same thing, or some new deal?

blakestah - just saw that you're back on injured reserve! shiet. sorry to hear it. get well soon.

yup - Big Tim.

Too much too soon, shoulder is not great right now. It shouldn't take long to get back at it, I hope. Two outer bar days last week...shoulder tendonitis heals really slow. Maybe another week off, and go with short sessions with little paddling.

I just can't stand surfing Lindy, though...

You love it, you know you do! You just don't want to...

C'mon, Big Tim!? O.K., big/yes; loud/somtimes; aggressive/well, maybe, but I've never seen it. He's really a sweet guy, with tons of stoke. I mean, I've blown it in front of him on more than one occaission, and he's NEVER given me a hard time. And it's not like we're real close buddies. I see him in the water, at the shop and around the nieghborhood. He knows my son, and we've had some real good conversations. But he has no real reason to treat me with anymore consideration than anybody else in the lineup. Maybe I'm giving him too much credit - but it might just be that since he's big enough, he can speak up when he sees someone being rude in the water. Me? I'm a little guy, somtimes I have to eat shit and keep my mouth shut when someone does something I don't like when I'm surfing. I've NEVER felt intimidated, or like I should go surf elsewhere when I'm in the water with Tim.

A final post, then it's pau for me.
Really sorry to hear you're out of it for a while, blakestah - that truly sucks. Take it easy. Let yourself heal.
Surfing at Pedro ain't so bad. Embrace your inner-kook - it's like at the end of the movie "Freaks" - "One of US! One of US! One of US!"

E-

I won't post my name because everytime I do I get at least subtly flamed, but just wanted to chime in that that was officially my favorite bit of your writing that I've read. Nice and subtle, not the barrage of exclamation points (not that I'm bagging on those), just good solid honest and lyrical writing.

Not to bog the whole thing down in stylistics or anything, but just wanted to chime in that I really liked it. And crazy about that guy going over the falls right over your head.

E - man did your weekend sound like mine - in terms of attitude in the water and kooks making things dangerous. Saturday surfed a mysto secret spot in North Marin - 10 guys out, big walls coming in, everyone surfing beyond ability. Sunday - Seadrift at Bolinas - biggest walls I've surfed there all year and I'd like to say this to the local Bo/Stinson crew who thing they're the shit - you might try to surf better and not rip people off by dropping in on their waves - could not f...g believe the rip offs going on out there with guys I know, and now have marked as complete assholes based on their lack of courtesy....
Sunday - back at Bo - dropped in on by some hack, who realized too late that I was smoking down the line, pulls out, but let's his board go over the falls almost spearing me....
Like you said E - if you can't make the drops, hold your board and simply understand the rules of the road in the water - DON'T PADDLE OUT. On big days it makes it dangerous and people will get hurt.

Love your Kook story e. I'm a total scrub from the desert only 7 months in and totaly stoked. Still just trying to never let my board go and dismount with out turning my long board into a projectile. I'm trying, but don't always succeed. When I fail and let the board go, and get admonished, I feel like shit. I'm trying as hard as I know how and try to avoid others like the plague. But I also want to catch some waves. Its tough. Thanks for the story.

does anyone know how to get in touch with goin????

Often the test of courage is not to die, but to live.

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