E's Surf Report: good winds.. clean swell

Swell down a bit from yesterday. It looked squeaky clean as i pulled up to Sloat at 6:45. But.. sorrowfully.. waves would mush out on the outer bars and then lurch/close-out on the inner bars. It was kinda frustrating because all the conditions seemed to be lined up perfectly. Crisp offshore wind, solid (but not too solid) 5ft 16second groundswell out of the west. OB was trying its damndest to work.. but.. just.. wasn't.. pulling it off. At around 11am the tide will switch and start going out.. at which time the beach might turn on and begin to fire off scrumptious, delectable, rifling sections?? dunno.. if i wasn't working i'd probably just be sitting in the lot with my radio on, waiting for it.

soo.. Lerm and i headed down to Blakestah's favorite high-performance mecca. Lindy actually represented this morning. Not fantastic.. but, for the wily, crafty, determined wave-hound glassy/peeling lines could be found. Lerm sniffed out a good number of tapering rides, and i watched him carve a nice turn on a shouder-high left. A few adventurous lads were taking off right next to the rock on the far north end.. and seemed to be snagging a few. It was extremely mellow out there.. with minimal duckdiving necessary. A great day for beginners or for those with nagging injuries that want to get wet without getting punished ala OB.

I just finished James Michener's Hawaii. If you're interested in the history of Hawaii.. how the islands formed via tectonic plate movement over a stationary hotspot... How ancient polynesians left bora bora or Tahiti in their two-hulled canoe for a mythical land to the north, using stars to guide them... how congregationalist missionaries settled in Lahaina and other places and attempted to spread their moral and spiritual teachings to the islanders. How smallpox spread through the land.. how and why scores of chinese, then japanese, then filipino people were brought over to work the sugar and pineapple fields.. how surfing, hula and the ukelele intertwined into the culture of the islands, etc.. you should check this book out. Michener's style is historical fiction.. soo.. the specifics of every story and name aren't absolutely historically accurate.. but.. all aspects of the story are based on actual history. Also.. my sister lives in Michener's old house in Doylestown, PA!

here's a couple of Bruce's recent photos (surfhumor.com)

I saw the same thing you did at Sloat but heqaded the other direction. Very hollow, thick, dredging slabs in the Aves. Really critical takeoffs on the bigger wave with some surprisngly long and fast, peeling walls. I was out alone at first. Two guys paddled out and sailed by me on the OB conveyer belt heading north.

Nice aesthetics this a.m., too.

Go get it!

Posted by: kdalle at January 21, 2004 10:51 AM

good on ya kdalle! I should've sacked up and headed out there.. I'm often prone to take the wimpy route south in the morning. Maybe tomorrow..

Posted by: e at January 21, 2004 10:56 AM

Anybody else out at Ocean Beach yesterday, late afternoon? More work, but more fun than I thought it was gonna be. Was it really solid overhead, or was I hallucinating from my own personal lack of waves lately?

Posted by: Jimmie at January 21, 2004 10:57 AM

Damn, OB is gonna be fun the rest of the day! I wish I wasn't slaving away...

Got some waves this morning but every one that I got kept me thinking of how nice it would be to be sitting out at OB around 2:00!

Hope everyone gets their fill today.

Posted by: Kaiser at January 21, 2004 11:04 AM

Yesterday. i was out around 11:30-1pm and it was almost solid overhead. yes every wave that i grabbed was overhead around 6-8' faces MAX. this was at sloat. it seemed like it was getting smaller by the minute though as my session moved on.

Posted by: dsx at January 21, 2004 11:05 AM

I drove down to SC on Sat and agian on MLK day. Hit my favorite safe haven around PP. Head high peelers both days. A bit crowded but I managed to snag a few very clean, long rides by myself. Party wave was the buzz of the day(s) though. All-in-all, it was lots of fun, in spite of the crowd.

It's so nice not to have to duck dive to get to the line up, catching waves with a stroke or two, not getting pitched on late take-offs, and long clean predictable wave faces.

There were a couple incidents that were handled pretty well by the locals. One guy (Surfer B), completely oblivious to a surfer barreling down the wave (Surfer A), dropped in right on top of the first man up (Surfer A). I heard the boards bang together. You know that sound they make just before fists start to fly?

Surfer A was really pissed and started shouting for a few moments at Surfer B. Surfer B ignored the rants and paddled back oout to the line up-right in the middle of Surfer A's local friends. When Surfer A arrived, he politely told Surfer B that he was not welcome anymore and should get out of the area (not the water, just the take off area). Of course Surfer B, being oblivious to the rules, ignored Surfer A. Then Surfers C, D, E, and F politely joined in the request for Sufrer B to leave. Surfer B vanished like magic. I thought it was handled very well. Kudo's to the locals for not getting out of hand.

Posted by: Dennis at January 21, 2004 11:17 AM

E- Michner can spin the tales-eh? A favorite American writer of mine. Coincidentally, i'm on page 181 of Hawaii- 2 huller landed in Havaiki and now whitefolk plan the trip round the Horn. Quality read for sure. Michner never dissapoints and the 4 font 600 pager is always a challenge.
Props to all rail grabbin, bucket throwers on this glorious Bay-Day. The cams dont lie today Get Washed for me- i'm chained to the desk (for now).

Posted by: steama at January 21, 2004 11:28 AM

Thanks, dsk - sounds about right! I got in the water about 4-4:30 pm at near low-tide. It was hard to tell how big it was from the parking lot due to the low sun. On the paddle out it looked like some folks were getting into some nice overhead waves, but my mind plays tricks on me sometimes. It's often hard for me to judge the size of waves I'm dropping in on myself - especially when I haven't been out in a while.

Posted by: Jimmie at January 21, 2004 11:31 AM

this is one of those mornings i know i'll regret come late spring. checked the entire beach, waves looked fun but nothing too special. outside looked mushy and frustrating, inside a bit too small to really work. could not motivate myself to paddle out.

this last weekend was quite fun though, sloat shorebreak was pretty insane saturday morning with some in-and-outs to be had. surfed closed-out macking pismo on sunday and really fun emma wood monday morning before hitting up the clippers-kings game in LA. on my way back from the game rincon was off its nut, but my dad was driving and he was over it.

Posted by: bbr at January 21, 2004 11:44 AM

i made the mistake of actually paddling out at Sloat around 8am...and e summed it up. It just wasn't working. Paddled around a lot...took off on a couple of closeouts and otherwise admired the beauty of the day.

Got out and looked at 2nd lot...which looked completely different. Fun little peaks, easy paddle and all sorts of interesting stuff going on. Saw one guy get shacked off his arse for a couple of seconds and come out clean. Almost re suited and paddled back out, but ended up gabbing a little too long. Watched christian tear some shiet up out there as well! Making it all look easy of course.

I would definitely head down to the beach if you can, it looked like it was just aching to get better on that outgoing tide.

Have fun!!!!

Posted by: jdz at January 21, 2004 11:49 AM

dude....you cant miss out on rincon....when its on and you are driving 101 north its soooo hard not to stop and take a couple waves....

Posted by: dsx at January 21, 2004 11:50 AM

heading down south this weekend to surf with a bud I haven't surfed with in years. Hopefully rincon will give me some o dat!!!

Posted by: jdz at January 21, 2004 11:53 AM

Can anybody recommend a house to rent on the North Shore? Looking for something close to the beach around a three bedroom. Thinking of going 1st week of March. Hopefully the crowds are a little thinner by then. Thanks everybody for your help. Cheers!

Posted by: jvs at January 21, 2004 11:55 AM

that is the worst, driving by perfect rincon..ouch

looks like last night was a good night to work till 2:30am..think ill be leaving around 3:00 today..

Posted by: bagel at January 21, 2004 12:28 PM

Damn, Alex getting more pub. This time, front page of Surfermag.com, check it.

JVS, I am heading out to Hawaii as well from Feb. 29th until Mar. 2nd. I have been looking for places as well and with the exception of Turtle Bay and the Turtle Bay Condos, it is hit or miss. You might want to check www.sandsea.com as there look to be some places in front of Chuns, Lani's and some other breaks. Also, check this Hawaii Craigslist post: http://honolulu.craigslist.org/vac/20464847.html

Posted by: Kaiser at January 21, 2004 12:51 PM

hurrican linda.. '98

Posted by: e at January 21, 2004 01:02 PM

jvs,

I have a family friend that rents their house sometimes. It is located at backyards (next to sunset) and is basically 50 yards off the beach. Awesome location for surf. Drop me a line if you are interested. I stayed there with a couple of friends over Thanksgiving.

Posted by: bagus at January 21, 2004 01:09 PM

E - A shout out to the (610). Michener attended and later taught at my alma mater, The Hill School, up rte 100 from Doylestown in Pottstown. Our man Bojon went there, too.

Reading Michener on Hawaii gave me a deep understanding of the dark side of aloha and the super-valid historically-rooted grievances and traditional grudge of Da Hui. I credit Michener with instilling the proper level of respect in my demeanor during the few times I've surfed the North Shore. I kept my nose clean - and unbroken - both in the water and out, not always an easy task.

Having OB as one's home break, of course, goes a long way toward instilling a basic surf-related humility as well. I'm off to the beach to taste a little humble poi right now, as a matter of fact...

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Posted by: bagel at January 21, 2004 01:28 PM

btw...Bruce...i dig that back-lit cutty shot! very cool.

Posted by: ck at January 21, 2004 02:05 PM

Mid Beach Mid Day Report:

Started off looking similar to this morning, except the outer bar was doing a little more than just showing. Around Noon, I tried to ride the inside insanity barrel/closeouts but went over the falls once and then pulled into a close-out. Stuck inside after both attempts to the point that paddling due south to get to the rip was the only option. And what a rip it was.

So then I tried to paddle out to the good outside peak by going out and around. On the outside, the current was insane. I managed to stay on a outside peak that was not as good as the one to the North and snagged a few fun drops.

At around 1:00 the wave quality just turned to shit. I think the tide switch was so insane today that it just effed it up. 7.1 to -1.5, that's almost 9 feet of water.

Of course, the Doof paddled out to the North of me by about 100 yards and scored "one of the top five waves of (his) life". He said he thought he was going to be annihilated as he was a full board length back in the tube, but he held on and it stayed open. I guess I should have stuck it out on the inside for one of those. He did join me on the outside later though as things changed rapidly today.

We walked back to where we started and it looked like total crap. Maybe good on the outside but hard to tell and good luck getting there.

There are no doubt some bars that are firing out there, but you better plan your attack well or you will be gone from that bar in no time.

Posted by: Friend #1 at January 21, 2004 02:27 PM

doh!

Posted by: bagel at January 21, 2004 03:01 PM

hi niceness,

does anyone have suggestions other than Alex for massive boardwork? i was sorry to hear that those incredible Mavericks photos ended with him having broken ribs...amazing, and ouch! i also managed to all-but destroy my board in a close-call this weekend and need some help. i have actually enjoyed fixing dings in the past but my board's current needs are completely beyond me. it might be beyond anyone's help, sadly... :(

any suggestions while Alex is on the DL? thanks.

Posted by: friendly at January 21, 2004 03:13 PM

i'm not sure who else to go to friendly?
but.. on a somewhat related note.. anyone know where i can pick up some of that dingleberries board repair?

Posted by: e at January 21, 2004 03:37 PM

Mark Grabinski does good work on bigger jobs.

He is located in Pacifica (Manor/Sharp Park area) and sometimes takes a while. Be sure to hold him to his first bid or just be prepared for a slight (5-15%) increase when you pick up the board as something will have come up to complicate the job.

650-738-2176

Posted by: Friend #1 at January 21, 2004 03:37 PM

maui

Posted by: e at January 21, 2004 04:27 PM

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Posted by: e at January 21, 2004 05:03 PM

thanks friend #1 and e...i'll give mark a call. i'm open to other recs, too. gracias.

Posted by: friendly at January 21, 2004 05:15 PM

SF Surfshop can fix anything. Best work around, high price.

Posted by: blakestah at January 21, 2004 07:55 PM

OB Jan 22: I dunno if anyone reads the previous day's posts this late, but just in case...OB looks doable in spots, but oddly enough hardly anyone's gone out. Bad paddle? Way too shifty? In any case it could really be worth a look-see. Posting early 'cuz I'll miss lunchtime around here. Cheers!

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