E's Surf Report

hmm. not working to the south.

after suffering at work yesterday we resolved to attack the butt-crack of dawn this morning and try to get some at home.

just not workin'. paddled out anyway, but -- too much tide & not enough swell. lumpy sets on the outside and little dumpers on the inside that wouldn't let you in. sounds like ob was the place this morning.

should be real fun on the lower tide today, in lots of spots.

aaaaaaaaargh!

decided to hit the mar this morning. after thinking about the left setup there yesterday, i had to see if it was working again. got 3 or 4 decent rides and 2 or 3 closeouts in my hour sesh.

i almost paddled out at ob, but like you said it seemed to be doing that inside shore pound, outside mush out thing.

poem someone just emailed to me.

RISKS

to laugh is to risk appearing the fool.
to weep is to risk appearing sentimental.
to reach out for another is to risk involvement.
to expose feelings is to risk exposing your true self.
to place your ideas, your dreams, before a crowd is to risk their loss.
to love is to risk not being loved in return.
to live is to risk dying.
to hope is to risk despair.
to try is to risk failure.
but risks must be taken, because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing.
the person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing, and is nothing.
they may avoid suffering and sorrow, but they cannot learn, feel, change, grow, love, live.
chained by their attitudes, they are a slave, they have forfeited their freedom.
only a person who risks is free.

--Author unknown

way to risk OB this morning, e. way to charge. sounds like you were rewarded for paddling out. you'll be feeling that 8foot top to bottom energy all day. alright!

jaws left.. yikes..

right on jake! You should move out to santa cruz for a month before hitting costa rica..

Wavefest:
Tonight (thursday jan 22)
New Jersey surf flick with live music at the Tongue and Groove on Van Ness at 8pm.

e...i dig the descrip of your sesh. especially that sesh-making/day-making (week-making?) drop! nice!

i met up with jdz and we bumped into Stan lookin' at Sliz. we were uber-tempted...but it just didn't quite seem there for us so we headed south to the oft-visited SM cove. we paddled out and each managed a handful of waves. had a great view from the inside to watch jdz work a nice fast right section on a wave (that otherwise walled and closed...nice positioning, jdz!!) and then cut-out smoothly and calmly over the lip. sweet. enjoyed the beauty of the morning and tried to stay warm! shiet! either it's my aging wetty or i'm just gettin' weak, but it sure seemed chilly out there this a.m.!

Just drove past the beach on a ... ahem ... work related errand. Definitely overhead, but still looking adversely effected by the high tide. If the wind ... nope, I won't even say it. It'll prolly be better after the tide drops some more.

had a great time at sloat last night, nice mellow, head high peaks, no rip, a little crowded but no mix ups and enough waves..so if this day turns out like yesterday (sorry if i jinx it) with the swell a bit bigger i bet there'll be some nice ones out dar..

i'm jealous.. get on that bagel!

Will post OB as the tide goes out - tried to shout out earlier on yesterday's comments cuz I was heading out. Currently the inside is a mess but doable in spots if you do the beach run.

Hit Lindy, 2nd time out since injury and 1st time out since on shortboard. Conditions were...cute.. and crowded. Nice peeps but someone please come directly over and kick my ass the next time I think of going there in the middle of the day. Caught nothing [ how do you dodge all these people?! ] and I'm pissed because I didn't risk the wave of the day, but hooray managed to, well, I don't know if it was duckdiving exactly but I slipped under repeatedly when the one closeout set reared up while I paddled out and kept landing straight on my head. I'd like to thank OB for it's brutal but superspeedy lessons on surfboard-death-grip!

FRIENDLY: if you need to borrow a board while yours is fixed I've got another Stewart. Maybe meet for some DPs or whatever around here if conditions are favorable?

Sorry long post..Cheers!

Sounds like folks are getting waves where they can.

Strange that offshore winds and a 5 foot at 16-17 second swell can somehow not really work at OB.

Today's Noontime Drive yielded nothing but funky up and down the beach so I ended up paddling out "Chalets" of all places.

The outer bar looked fun, but was infrequent. One guy on a gun got some of those. I rode the inside. I got pitched on some, closed out on others, way out on the shoulder for some, and marginally tubed on one.

Yesterday evening looked smaller but much more fun than mid-day during my session. So perhaps there is hope for those who leave work early. I have to give Blood at 5:00 PM.

There is a pretty big shortage right now, BTW.

nice shots george! wonder if that spot was working today...

sounds like i was out in the water with some of you at lindalicious this morning, which did not seem to be lining up as good as it was a week ago.

and i agree with ck, it was cold! but this was my first session since returning from surfing in my shorty in FL (indialantic, knee-waist), and my 4/3 seems to be getting leaky.

so there's a topic for discussion -- what is the average life expectancy of a wetsuit in nor cal?

ethan, could you combine your sessions-per-year reports with your wetsuit purchasing history and give us some hard data on the subject?

e and i have discussed the wet suit lifetime. we figure if you surf almost everyday it is surfable, you're wetty will last (if your lucky)about a year. i think i did almost 200 in my current wet suit.

i wish i could surf tonight, yesterday was the only chance i had for the week, what with those damn farmers and thier "daylight savings" even leaving downtown at 3 you still only get barely a 2 hr session..

i had my last wetsuit for 3 years and it was shot, but i probably surf about half as frequently as E..but i just got a new wetsuit set up and technology has done good things for wetsuit design..

You should try to have at least two suits at all times, and three is ideal. This will extend their life a bit as you will not be pulling them on wet, leaving them on the porch railing outside, etc. Wearing your older suit on days when you can, (warmer sessions), means one less day of wear on your new suit.

Having two good suits and one older one, means that I have had to buy a suit every year and a half or so for that last 10 years for me. That is figuring that I averaged 100 sessions a year for that stretch.

The stretchy suits do not last as long as the old non-stretchy suits did. The price you pay for easy of entry/exit.

regarding santa cruz, e, i know, that's the call, but i have a plane ticket, ummm i think i'm starting the 10 day countdown now, so it's all good. and speaking of wetsuits, my 4/3 is two years old and full of holes... i'd really really need a new one for a month in norcal right now... gonna hold out! one thing that feels positive is that there is a raging thirst for santa cruz in my bones... a passionate urge to roll down golden west cliff drive on an irie california day (330 days of the year)... so now I know where I want to go. i think i'll be there next winter, for sure. unless I lose my CORE in the tropics. a new wetsuit should help that though. charge it!

my ripcurl has lasted a year and a half and i treat it like shit. i don't ever wash it out and leave it in the back of my truck at all times. it's never completely dry and smells like saltwater and B.O. (yes i sweat out there, even on the coldest days... it's nasty). it occasionally needs minor repairs from tears in the seams, but i take it into Baja Bob's in SLO and he fixes that shit up proper in practically no time for cheap. i've had great experiences with ripcurl and would recommend them to anyone. also their repair/replacement warranty is the shizzle. however my next suit might be an aleeda cuz they're the only american company that really supports boogers. wheee!

i have a borrowed o'neill as a backup suit and its the biggest piece of crap ever. it's got the "half-zip" thing and sometimes i won't even suit up cuz it's such a pain in the ass to put on. there are all these extraneous flaps and velcro strips that are completely unnecessary.

in my experience the biggest no-no in wetsuit care is don't leave your suit out to dry in direct sunlight. sunlight just eats away at neoprene and killed a couple of my old suits before their time.

what Lerm said about wetties..
I usually surf around 220 days a year and go through one wetsuit every year.
I just purchased the O'neil psycho II for, like, $1200 or something.. and within a month one of the neck seams started unraveling! i was bummed.. but luckily Wise hooked me with a new o'neil wetsuit as a loner. After a month O'neil finally sent it back to Wise, repaired. I have to go pick that up.

I have a small crack/ding in my new surfboard.. right on the rail. Any advice on fixing??

i was thinking:
1. sand and scrape away as much of the corroded/cracked glass as possible

2. fill with ding-all

3. let dry

4. sand

5. surf

I was hoping to use dingleberries but Jake mentioned that it might not be my best bet..

any advice out there?? anyone living in the outer sunset want to help me fix that shit tonight?

Hey E.
Thanks for the mention on the surf films tonight. I just want to add that though the notice is waaaaaaay last minute, these filmmakers definitely need our support. They've made a really cool film that's light on pro's, and heavy on talented East Coast locals. Plus the waves they filmed are righteous waves, no 2' dribblers here.

Alright, hope to see a bunch of you tonight. Tongue & Groove is on Van Ness (x Union).
--B

shit, i used to have some resin and crap at my place but i think my old roomate yoinked it...i need to fix the same type of thing, i noticed it last night..nothing like sliding your hand up the rail and sticking yourself with fiberglass..

i think you got it right on the ding fixing, at least thats how i do mine..sometimes they pop out at places, or i get cracks around the seals, or little holes after a while...any pointers?

E- Man are you in luck! I have great ding repair instructions on my site at

http://www.surfhumor.com/Tips%20and%20References.htm

(Click on "Ding Repair Made Easy")

e...i'm no expert, but i've fixed a few dings on my and a few friends' boards. i guess my advice depends how bad the ding is and how concerned you are about cosmetics. the route you suggest clearly works, but i'm partial to using a little bit of cloth in all but the smallest of my repairs. my experience is that it's not that much harder and it provides a better finish.

here's my rec: if it's just a crack, (1) clean/sand (2) cut a small piece of fiberglass cloth (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch bigger than the area) (3) apply a small amount of resin to the area (4) place cloth (5) add a little resin over the cloth to saturate (6) let dry (7) sand smooth...including a wet sand if you want an uber-smooth finish.

if there's a hole in the foam, then i'd fill with Ding-All as per the steps you laid out, let that repair dry, and then add the fiberglass top layer (as per the steps above) for extra stregth/seal/cosmetic appeal.

e - you could always bring it over. Drop me an email if you are interested. Bring wax paper.

With smaller dings, I usually do this

Sand with 50 grit for an inch around.

Cut glass to fit over sanded section.

Mix lam resin.

Add Q-cell until it has the consistency of toothpaste. Fill hole, smooth over when soft.

When tacky (a few hours or so), put glass over top, mix lam resin, add resin to glass, splat it smooth with wax paper, tape the wax paper to the board, clean around the edges wait to dry.

Remove wax paper, sand, surf. Or, skip the sand step.

> nothing like sliding your hand up the rail and sticking yourself with fiberglass

Man, that happened to me a few weeks ago. I had a deep splinter that wouldn't work itself out. I ended up having to cut it out with my leatherman. Nothing like some improptu home surgery!

I like the idea of alternating between two wetties that are relatively comparable. Nice to have a semi-dry wetty available at all times...

I could use some scrap foam for a couple larger dings. Any ideas where I could get a hold of some? muchas gracias

Ben-
Walk the beach on a bigger hollow day. Yesterday evening, there was the tip (first foot and a half) of a board sitting on a bench on the promenade. There's your spare foam right there.

OB: multiple rows of whitewater in varying degrees of size and mushiness. A few peeps splattered about doing their best to either catch the capricious outside bombs [ coupla feet overhead perhaps ] or sometimes nab a lurching inside slab that will randomly appear and cooperate. Obviously not working real well but the in-shape regulars should be able to work it. Currently sunny and dogfur-o-meter indicates very slight onshores. Cheerio...

ha, true, a saw a guy walking in from his session around mid beach last night with a broken board..ouch

Funny, just fixed a rail ding today that I picked up in Baja. I was in a hurry, so I just broke out the dremel and sanded an area around the ding down just below the surface (not all the way into the foam), mixed some resin and Q-cell, spread the mixture in the sanded out area, added some glass, added more mixture, let it set, and sanded it smooth. Looks ok and doesn't leak now.

Ben, if you are in Santa Cruz, stop by FSC on Capitola Ave. and 7th (I think) near Soquel Ave. They have lots of board making/repair supplies (more than anyone else). Guess they don't call it Fiberglass Santa Cruz for nothing.

damn...long day...up at 6...see e paddle out(nice work!)...meet ck(great surfing with you and Stan)...wuss out on OB...head to the mar...catch 3 waves...tweak my back on the first one...forget my towel...get naked and dirty in the dirt lot...head to clients...fry my brain on PnL's and Balance sheets...hurt my back more from sitting all day...home and friggin FRIED!!! But at least I got in the water and watched the sunrise!!! Always fun.

Oh and I will never buy an O'neil suit ever again. Haven't had one in years. Hate'em. They never fit me.

e - good luck on the ding repair.

cheers!

Loon... my record on wetsuit life is about a year-ish surfing a lot (200+ sessions). However, I have to take it in a couple of times during the year to get warranty repairs (seam splits, stitching popping, etc.). If you live up the street from the manufacturer, it's not such a big deal (if I didn't it would be). That said, I love my suit... I am never cold.

Hey E,

I think I was out with you this a.m., my buddy and I paddled up near you and were swept to the North. Saw you make those drops, Nice!!! Peace.

What ever hapened to duck tape for ding repair? but then I tape my glasses too:)

Since everone raved about last weekend. I had some great fun on Sat at some of those not so secret reefs in Marin. About 8 -10 people out spread over a few of the peaks, just overhead surf, amd a great vib in the line up and on the beach.

Wetsuits. This is my first time posting here (good site) but I'm an OB regular and the only guy around here with my kind of suit. I have 2 Boz wetsuits (they're Peruvian) and they're the most comfy, warmest and durable suits that I've owned. My first one is my 4/3 and I've had it almost a year, it's showing no signs of aging. I almost never rinse it and have dried it in the sun (a no no) around one hundred times. I surf about 300 times a year. The suit has an inner sheet layer of titanium to block wind so there is no smoothie material which makes it last longer. The 5/4/3 is closed cell neoprene so it doesn't soak up water or let wind in the main torso area(!). It's hard to tell yet but I think my 4/3 is the more durable suit. They're totally affordable $250 for my 5/4/3, $235 for my 4/3. Excellent warrantee. You can order one from Harry (nice, helpful guy) at bozwetsuit.com with a good size/weight chart and if you feel wierd about ordering a suit you can't try on -tell Harry and see what he can do for you. They get here in 2 to 3 days. I agree with Gary Linden, "They're the best wetsuit money can buy.". If locals start buying them John at SF knows about em and seems like he would get some in the shop. How about those last two afternoons at middle beach!

E, couldn't hold off on OB any longer either. Glad I did. Chalet, waited for a lull, charged out, got one kick ass right, then it got funky. I laff when sufline calls it 1 foot overhead, those outside waves were well beyond that. They don't know how to read the birds. The current is such a trip... Hey, those pyschos are a drag to get into but they fit, move well and keep me warm, what else is there? Plus never a hassle on warranty, which, as has been noted, is an unfortunate side effect of stretchy rubber. When are we gonna get a classic OB day? One of those calendars in your mind, except you're immersed and charging. Soon. Later

Classic OB day. My psychic astrologer says SuperBowl Sunday is a can't miss outer bars day.

Ryan and I paddled out at 1pm Friday. we're the only guys going for it in front of the chalet...high tide ..outsiders lookin nice from the lot ... paddling out was an x games challenge ...intimidating doh big ones outside but not really a lot of smack pounding our heads ...major struggle inside ...caught an inside right ...said yeah ...look back,saw ryan launching on a big insider ...close out ...blue railed stewart gets submerged ...ryan not in site ...oh what a paddling work out..no wonder there was nobody out.... can't help but think about the entertainment factor to the tourists lunching at the beach chalet

Aloha,

Anyone know how to get in touch with Kyle Bernhardt on Oahu? I'd like to see if he can shape me a board.

mahalo,

bagus
carnet (at) tensa.com

Kyle shapes through SF Surfshop, of which he is a partner owner. You can fill out an order form at the shop and/or call him and try to get him to answer his phone. Or, easier, leave your number on the order form and have him get in touch with you.

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