E's Surf Report: surfable..

Sometimes existence is bittersweet. It's often tough to come to terms with the inherent balancing of positive and negative forces in life. No ecstatic high exists without a corresponding low. Every solid, animate being casts a dark, murky shadow. This life-lesson can be humbling and gut wrenching. It can leave you feeling like you've been punched in the stomach. But.. there is also something rejuvinating and cleansing about change and progression. Whether you're dealing with a soul-drenching injury, or a loved one leaves your life, or you get laid off from your job, or you're a wave-starved surfer living in Kentucky, the dark-side should be looked upon as an opportunity for renewal, growth and personal evolution. Emotional upheavals can also be harnessed into powerful, enraged, focussed creative outlays. Tap into that energy and let it flow!

Anyway.. yeah.. soo.. the surf. Blessed be the surf which soothes us societally-entrapped human beings. This morning proved fun out at OB.. even though it looked junky and uninspired from the beach. Thanks to Lerm for motivating my lazy arse. He was sitting in his car in his wetsuit, before the sun even came up.. amping! We ended up out at Sloat. Caught a few bombs on the outer bars. good stuff.. the onshores seemed to come on toward the end of the session.. though.. an evil beacon of things to come? let's hope not.

this weekend witnessed some unreal waves! Some of the best waves I've EVER seen at OB happened on Saturday early-afternoon at Sloat. Perfectly glassy, gigantic triple-overhead leviathan's groped and lurched way way way out there. This guy with a big red gun caught two fantastic rides.. Kudos to you fella!!

Kaiser and i drove for a while on sunday and lucked into a magical, three-man point-break dawn-patrol. Tons of waves, mellow vibes, pure magic!

ok.. i have a meetings.. peace y'all!

monday noontime props...

1) to ss sharkbait for her superincredible loan offer while my board is in the shop. so kind!! i'll definitely take you up on it if you want to get out in the AM this week...tuesday or friday, nature permitting?
2) ck for his usual stoked-out self and philosophical appraisal of a close encounter with rocks.
3) blakestah for the sf surfshop rec. i went back to meet john last saturday and he's going to do all he can for my board. he seems a nice guy; corbin, too. and your 6500rpm, 30-pound sidekick is about as cute as they come.

and this is completely unrelated, but "rivers & tides" is showing tonight at the red vic. all about andy goldsworthy's art with nature. great, great flick.

Posted by: friendly at January 26, 2004 12:07 PM

yeah, friendly, that flick is sick, and i think it's pretty relevant to all of us ocean-goers... there's much wisdom and beauty in andy's relationship to the rhythm of nature, and his sensitivity to tides is particularly appropriate to surfers. that movie will definitely help ya feel the natural flow all around you next time you paddle out to your favorite, the-more-nonurban-the-better ola. cheers, mates!

Posted by: jake at January 26, 2004 12:41 PM

After dissin' the jetty last week for being inconsistent we surfed it on Sunday morning and had so much fun. Pretty small and imperfect shape, but snagging a few of those zippy inside rights brought back so many great memories. The best part was that there were only a handful of guys out before the cell phones started ringing. I think it still ranks as one of the best small wave spots. Pics at the site if you want to check 'em out.

Posted by: Bruce at January 26, 2004 01:00 PM

e, sounds as if there is some turbulence in your life at the moment. Hang in there.

I surfed Sloat also at 7:30. I was the guy on the too long board sitting outside. Caught a few fun ones and went to work. The wind kinda killed it by 8:45.

Saturday a.m. was indeed good and surprisingly uncrowded at Sloat. The north rip was doing its thing but there were some nice peaks. I wouldn't call it as big as you said but it may have come up some by the afternoon. I'm guessing the guy on the red board was Rocky. He rides a 10'-6" Parmenter that is the meatiest board I've ever seen. Of course, he's a pretty large guy.

Keep surfing no matter what.

Posted by: kdalle at January 26, 2004 01:06 PM

A friend named Dave (note: not me and not Big Wave Dave) was out late morning/early afternoon Saturday around Sloat, said he got a few good ones, almost no one out.

e - hope your ding is repaired, if not, give me a ring. Take a deep breath, and grab some surf.

This morning I cruised the north end, it was downright glassy and maybe shoulder high...and no one even thinking of paddling out. Strange, the crowds at DP this time of year.

Posted by: blakestah at January 26, 2004 01:22 PM

e& Kaiser...nice werk scoring the magic sesh. when that happens...it's the source. nice.

my lady and i hit the water twice this weekend. mostly closeout, lumpy, uninspiring suckas, but good fun regardless. did manage one right that worked nicely, felt soooo good, and left me stoked!

friendly...glad to hear that you're taking s.s. up on her killah offer and are back in action again!! if you roll for dp manana, keep an eye out for me. would be good to share the water with ya.

Posted by: ck at January 26, 2004 01:30 PM

kdalle.. i think i saw you out there catching some nice ones this morning.. were you riding a big, long gun-type board and wearing a hood? I saw you get in early on some of those waves.. looked like you had the right board for the conditions. Lerm and i were just south of you, also surfing the outside.

blakestah - i ended up fixing that ding on my own.. thanks so much for offering help. I'll most likely take you up on that offer if/when i get a more substantial ding.

It was only one wave that i think may have approached triple-overhead at Sloat at around 3pm on Saturday.. and that giant-red-board guy surfed it really well.. crazy shit!

yeah.. life!

Posted by: e at January 26, 2004 01:33 PM

yo, e, it's what you said. it's true, all true.

Posted by: robme at January 26, 2004 01:50 PM

blakestah: when were you looking at the north end? I was there super early but saw no glassiness...maybe it was the morning eye boogers that clouded my vision!

will chime in OB report before end of workday. Kept checking site but had to pop out before I could do a lunch update. Currently conditions are a little less crunchy than they were at low tide, but still small and very very fickle. Could be fun w/right attitude. 0-4 peeps trickling in and out all day.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 26, 2004 02:14 PM

At approximately 7:30 AM the area roughly in front of the Beach Chalet looked super clean, glassy, with little peelers coming in. Definitely empty, smallish, and very very very clean. Looked small enough I shoulda paddled out, bad shoulder and all, if I wasn't encumbered with a 6500rpm 30 lb package. And no one was out, no one was suiting up, nada.

Makes me think of many a late winter morn kdalle and I have been among the very few people out, back when he used to surf someplace other than the old man's lots at the south end...

In other news, I sent the first UFO finbox out to someone I've never met for testing. Feels kinda weird, will be interesting to see what he thinks when he gets it in a board.

Friendly, I saw John later Saturday, he sounded like he had an interesting repair job in mind, should work well.

Posted by: blakestah at January 26, 2004 02:29 PM

gawldammit I was trying to stare out from beach chalet around 6:45? and missed it!! Drove all over and eventually ended up dorking around mid-beach in the chop. D'OH. But yes, perfect size for reintroducing freshly healed injuries to the water. Congrats on the UFO outreach...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 26, 2004 02:37 PM

Hey now!

e-that was me on the 9'-8" crowd-pleaser.

blakestah-waddya mean. I surfed the Aves. just, just, damn alzheimer's kickin' in.

Posted by: kdalle at January 26, 2004 03:01 PM

Didn't make the trek this morning but just returned from the ole utility session @ Da' Mar. I fucking love that place! Where else can you surf an empty, shitty, little peak, catch a few down the line and have 8 people on top of you in 4 minutes? D a' M a r!

Sounds like O Biz was working this morning eh? It was just too damn cold in my bedroom to roll out of the sheets. Definitely signs of W wind out there. Not sure if it is more out of the SW or NW but you can feel in coming onshore. Not to bad to kill a morning sesh though.

On the DP tip, I have noticed less and less people this month on the road as well. Not sure why. As the beach goes, there really haven't been that many favorable mornings at OB. I am sure some will disagree with this so I speak only from what I have seen pre 7:15ish.

Posted by: Kaiser at January 26, 2004 03:09 PM

an "interesting" repair job? well now i'm nervous.

WARNING to all niceness-at-homers: in the last 40 minutes, i've gotten 8 virus emails from people i don't know. two addresses are ID'd niceness regulars. all the viruses were stripped by our system, but it could be bad news for anyone connecting from home. each had "test" as the subject.

..."interesting" like how?

Posted by: friendly at January 26, 2004 03:17 PM

hey e,

life isn't always as advertised, so hope the spirit lifts soon. for me its unemployement...

As for surfing discovered something that seems so obvious-

SWIMMING!!!!!

yes started swimming at the YMCA almost every day and my surfing ability has shot up as a result. most of surfing is nothing more than 50 or so paddle sprints. At OB its endurance. If you can't swim fast your not going to get into waves soon enough and your feet end up in the wrong sport.

take care lads!!!!!

Posted by: phil young at January 26, 2004 03:27 PM

On the VIRUS tip, CK got one of these from my Yahoo account earlier today as well. Sooooo, all those in tech land, do you dealio...

BTW, I didn't send any emails to anyone on E's site today!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 26, 2004 03:39 PM

Re: those virus emails, I think someone's just scraping email addresses off the site and using them as 'To' and 'From' in their spam. Not much to do about it since they likely already have the email addresses. Don't open any attachments that you aren't expecting in any email messages. I just killed display of email addresses in the comment author text so whoever is doing this won't get any more email addresses to work with.

Phil, good call on the swimming. I was doing a lot of swimming in Aquatic Park last summer/fall and the effect on my surfing was noticable. I've been thinking about hitting the YMCA pool lately. How are the crowds there?

Posted by: mwsf at January 26, 2004 03:50 PM

phil young.. thanks homie.. and.. for me too.. years and years and years and fucking years of competitive swimming exists as the unquestioned foundation of any surfing ability i might be able to muster. Plus it gives you a nice confidence in the water.. The thought of breaking my leash way way out there and having to swim in doesn't really scare me thanks to countless cold/dismal pre-school practices in the icy william tennent high school pool! 200 IM anyone?

Posted by: e at January 26, 2004 03:51 PM

never knew you were fellow "recovering" childhood swimmer. Freezing temperature from meets at 6:00 am - made for great training ground for Winter dawn patrols. 200IM? - I think was around 2:48 - back then.

Posted by: d looose at January 26, 2004 04:06 PM

Getting ready for a Ecuadorian Surfari! I leave in two days. I just stripped my board of cold water wax and bought 5 bars of the warm stuff. Its weird how the closer i come to this trip, the less motivated I am to surf here at home. I have never had that happen to me. Usually I get all psyched before a trip and surf everyday leading up to it for at least a week if not two. Anyway, I will definitely post some pics when I return.

Anyone ever surf down there?

Posted by: Shralp at January 26, 2004 04:21 PM

d loose.. you're the man!! I started swimming hard-core at the ripe age of 7... i was super psyched on it until around 11 or 12.. then the grind of it just started to wear my shit down.. by 15 i was hating it and the rippers were blowing by me because they still loved it. That's when i found skiing..

i don't even remember my 200IM time. I used to do that and the 100back.. I still like doing backstroke out in the ocean if there aren't any waves or if i'm paddling really far out to a reef or something and i want to switch it up.. I'll get off my board and just started swimming backstroke.. dragging my board by the leash.

the one great thing about swimteam.. all the ladies in bathingsuits the whole time!! some of them could kick my ass in swimming too! i had such a crush on Nancy Davis.. queen of the butterfly..

Posted by: e at January 26, 2004 04:23 PM

More sleuthing on the weird virus emails: Does anybody know anyone who works at or lives near the city of Carson public library? That appears to be where the emails are originating from.

Posted by: mwsf at January 26, 2004 04:29 PM

D-loose and e:

I played hole-guard on my waterpolo team in high school. Every spring, when I told the swim coach I would be playing Badminton rather than swimming, he threatened to not let me play polo the following year. And every year, I was welcomed back to the polo team with open arms. I never won any sprints, shit I was never asked. But I was the guy they called on when someone on the other team needed to be fouled hard.

Posted by: Friend #1 at January 26, 2004 04:35 PM

Caught some fun shoulder highish waves today, and my ding repair is holding up. I guess that makes me happy... well, except for reading Blakestah's forecast for the rest of the week.

-d

Posted by: dano at January 26, 2004 04:40 PM

That was a good position. I was too lazy to try and create goals, so I would just hang back and beat up on fools what fun!

Posted by: hole defender at January 26, 2004 04:49 PM

Hey Shralp, Ecuador is a great country for surf, This is best time of year for Montanita, a super fun right. About an hour north a montanita there is a place called Rio Chico, its some sort of state park/ archeological place, anyhow, they charge a buck to get in so there is nobody there. I spent a week hitching from Montanita to Rio Chico and scoring glassy left point perfection, wishing I could have someone to talk to, and looking around to see if anybody saw my last wave, never did. .

Posted by: mexisurf at January 26, 2004 04:58 PM

OB: wind looks like it's up, but the wavelettes are up a bit too...at least in very selective spots. A chunk of peeps scratching to get into the same shoulder to head-high crumblers, with one or two straglers choosing their lot up and down the line. Also saw a 6-7 foot ride but that was about an hour ago. Looks like 'zen' surfing - not so much peaks but shoulders and little nuggets shifting around in small areas...with the usual lulls. . Anyway, right place, right time, right attitude might be the call this afternoon. Good luck...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 26, 2004 05:00 PM

e . . . I hear you on the co-ed practices! The thought of seemingly endless laps after school was always comforted by the knowledge that you would be sharing the pool with the girls. Particularly ,if you were a guy at the all-boys high school.

Posted by: d looose at January 26, 2004 05:05 PM

Reuters regarding the email virus:
New Worm Spreading Rapidly Across Internet -Experts
Mon January 26, 2004 07:05 PM ET
SAN FRANCISCO (Reuters) - Security experts warned on Monday about a new virus outbreak that was spreading quickly across the Internet.

The new virus, dubbed MyDoom or Novarg, is a mass-mailing worm that arrives as an attachment with an .exe, .scr, .zip or .pif extension and can have a subject line of "test" or "status."

It mails itself out to addresses in the victim's computer and is clogging mail servers and degrading network performance at companies, experts said.

"Mailboxes at large corporations are infected and reporting multiple infections throughout their entire organizations," said David Perry, global education director at Trend Micro.

The worm was discovered on Monday afternoon and spread so quickly that Trend Micro, Network Associates, Symantec and other anti-virus companies were rating it a "high" outbreak.

Security experts said they were still analyzing the virus to discover what it does to the victim computers.

Posted by: kdalle at January 26, 2004 05:07 PM

In Search Of Captain Zero screenplay:

http://www.aweisbecker.com/contents/zero_script_dec2003.pdf

Posted by: mwsf at January 26, 2004 05:39 PM

friendly, John said it would be too much to sand all those dings. So, he's gonna fill them all, and then hit the bottom with the planer. Sand that sucker down a bit, and then glass the entire bottom, and finish it like a new board.

It'll weigh a little more, but be sweet. Not many ding repair guys have a glassing factory at their disposal, but then again not many dings would benefit from a new glass layer.

Next time let us know, we can arrange a more friendly tour guide for such spots. I think more boards and people get injured at Fort Point than at Mavericks.

Posted by: blakestah at January 26, 2004 08:22 PM

now that is some kind of terrific and "interesting" repair job description! thanks blakestah. please pass on my thanks to john if you talk with him before me.

ha...a "friendly tour" indeed. next time will probably be a while from now, when that place is way mellow and my confidence is way up. but, yeah, next time. gotta go back eventually.

Posted by: friendly at January 26, 2004 09:47 PM

Where in Mexico is Pasquales?

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