rainy, south winds, waves!
Drove for a while after Kaiser (thankfully) woke my ass up. After watching seemingly mediocre, sewage-filled, lackluster waves for a few minutes.. i started to pull the car out and head back home. But.. as if some ghost inside me took over my bodily movements, turned the car off and commenced surf preparation. Suddenly, against my better judgement, i was in my wetsuit paddling out past the outflow of freshly polluted runoff. Only one other guy out, this big fella on a massive log. We exchanged pleasantries and then out of nowhere some solid waves cruised in. I took off on a juicy, semi-ledging head-high wall, bottom turned, then powered a speedy, elongated top-turn right up along the lip to outrun the walled section... then a few pumps... then a mini roundhouse cutback. Shit.. i thanked my lucky stars that i donned the wetsuit and paddled out.. A few minutes later another beauty of a wave presents itself for me. I take off... then enjoy some gratifying, speed-creating pumps down the line of the shoulder/head-high wave.. then this tasty, super-smackable closeout lip apears and i reach up and crack it.. then bounce off and ride out with the white-water.. funk yeah! On another wave i made sure to set my feet nicely on the takeoff.. then worked through the fullest roundhouse cutty i think i've ever done on my frontside.. schweet.. It was also cool to hoot the big fella into some solid waves.. he would wobble and bobble and barely make his takeoffs.. but then once to his feet would successfully meander down the line.
Just as i felt i was surfing like a ripper i ended up boggling my last two takeoffs and getting back on my heels. I took off on this nice, shapely wave.. barely making the drop.. and then looked up at an oh-so-scrumptious lip.. which i really wanted to launch up and hit.. but.. i was "stink-bugging" back on my heels and couldn't do anything other than watch the lip come down and annihilate me. But.. i'm not complaining at all after scoring some of my best waves in weeks..
it's also nice to surf in in the wind and rain..
kewll..
e
Someone (sorry i deleted the email and can't remember who!) sent me this via email yesterday.. Looks like a mellow jetty wave, eh?
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 10:55 AM
Posted by: bbr at January 27, 2004 11:07 AMOB: yeah yeah, windy, rainy, mucked up. Currently seeing some speedy slopey waist to 6 foot or more? mushers that look rideable but they're interspersed with the rest of the stormy mess. No one out.
Kudos to ck, friendly, and kaiser for the fun session this am. Didn't want to paddle in early but at this stage in the game my arms still in the overcooked noodle stage - working up to al dente... Dunno about you folks but since it's nearly noon I think my core temperature is finally above hypothermic. Good goofy times...I love charlie brown conditions!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 27, 2004 11:12 AM"charlie brown conditions"...nice descriptor, s.s.!! i gotta say that if it hadn't been for the small niceness possee assembled in the mud and rain, i might have opted for "pancake point"! once out, however, there were some surprisingly fun micro-peelers to be had...and, of course, the vibe was muy pos. thanx for helping me moto!
e...that pic at the top of the "comments" section is simply beautiful. definitely inspiration for some serious daydreaming!
Posted by: ck at January 27, 2004 11:36 AMPosted this late yesterday... Allan Weisbecker posted the screenplay for In Search Of Captain Zero on his website. It's a good surfy read. There are a fair number of departures from the book, but it still captures the book's spirit. If the movie ever gets made, it should be interesting.
http://www.aweisbecker.com/contents/zero_script_dec2003.pdf
Posted by: mwsf at January 27, 2004 11:37 AMBig up niceness folks... hope everyone is getting their surf on today. If you're looking to kill a few hours at the office, I highly recommend
www.high.tv
If the player window doesn't pop up, click the link at the bottom of the page.
cheers,
Posted by: rc at January 27, 2004 11:45 AM-rc
yeah! fun times this morning, even with the rains bordering on sleet and mother ocean pulling us out to sea. i definitely dug the anti-inertia vibe in that muddy lot, and the loaner board. thanks again, ck--it's quite safe to say i would not have been out this AM without the niceness connection. :) good to meet you, too, kaiser.
if i were a charlie brown character, i'd be...linus in the pumpkin patch.
Posted by: friendly at January 27, 2004 11:55 AMhey all...
Posted by: eightwest at January 27, 2004 12:07 PMaloha from kauai!
every once and a while i get to check out the niceness stories. It's rad to hear and visualize entries about surf, spots, and weather in NorCal.
I miss putting on my 4/3 in some weird, strange sort of way. Anyhow, Kauai has been so fun recently.the last 2 weeks we've had some Solid days. mackers at the NW,W exposed spots. Caught, and successfully rode the biggest wave of my life on Monday afternoon at Hanalei Bay. So fired up.
some new kind of adrenaline flowed through me afterwards. Super intense, but suprisingly soothing.
Surfing is so amazing. We are a lucky breed, us surfers.. Hope the new year brings all of us waves...send an email if any of the crew is out this way. We'll hook up for a session. coolio.
Aloha, Mike
Kill time? Try meph.eu.org
Posted by: blakestah at January 27, 2004 12:55 PMSmack the penguin.
See if you can beat 593
Looked at one spot... looked completely marginal... suited up anyway fearing wind later... stretched out... got in up to my ankles... turned around... got in the car... another spot... bigger at headish but just as ugly... paddle out forever (longest in a long time -- in nothing waves no less)... waves not breaking just dumping... get smacked around a bit as one explodes in front of me... catch a left... paddle in... turn around and shake my head wondering what I was doing out there.
-d
Posted by: dano at January 27, 2004 01:10 PMnice work Dano!
8west - livin it!!
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 01:14 PMdamn blakstah the farthest i got was 516...but I will probably waste many more hours trying to beat 593...good stuff.
Got back from a trip down south this weekend...here's a recap. Drove down 101 Friday...got speeding ticket in Goleta doing 80 in a 65...Stopped at Rincon...didn't paddle out cause my back was still fugged up...watched Keith Malloy and Bobby Martinez kill the chest high Rincon afternoon low-tide-beatifully backlit waves. Watched many a snake and or collision by the lesser talented surfers. Watched Al Merrick and various other photographers document the whole thing. Surfed County Line early Sat morning in fairly glassy waist-high surf...laughed when my buddy complained about the water being cold...laughed more when I noticed the general disregard for wave priority that seems pervasive down there(am I getting old and jaded)...got food poisoning Saturday night...drove home Sunday loaded up on Lomotil (thank god for that stuff)...good times
Posted by: jdz at January 27, 2004 01:51 PMjdz...sounds like a killah trip!! well...except for the fugged-up back and the food poisoning! sorry to hear about those parts. hope that you're feeling better now.
Posted by: ck at January 27, 2004 02:00 PMjdz - sounds fun!! when's your indo trip?
this place looks fun:
tonight we are supposed to get 10 inches of snow, and conditions are shaping up for "big, cold, clean Jersey juice" tomorrow, says the local report. classic onshore flow doing the post-storm switcharound to come out of the nw and clean it up. i'll see if i can find the courage and wetsuit to charge it... i haven't surfed since rockaway in december, and you guys have me stoked with all the fun norcal times that have been goin' down recently. word!
Posted by: jake at January 27, 2004 02:02 PMjake...the Indo trip is slated for march 19 to apr 1 or 2nd. However...the Indo trip may turn into a Maldive trip if the Indo boat doesn't book completely. Either way i'm going on a surf trip in March...somewhere. where is that point???
Posted by: jdz at January 27, 2004 02:07 PMbtw, that pic is from new zealand not chile
Posted by: bbr at January 27, 2004 02:17 PMeither way you swing it... a boat trip in that part of the world would be really phat... a boat seems like the most hooked up way to score waves, especially over a shorter time period. it's gonna be sick!
that point is in ecuador. que maravillosa.
Posted by: jake at January 27, 2004 02:28 PMHey man, my takeoffs weren't so bad. There was a lot of offshore getting under that massive log. Plus, I was going backside...
It got real funky after you left so I guess you timed it right.
Posted by: Hrothbart at January 27, 2004 02:42 PMLet me Guess, Pic one Byron Bay, two Raglan, NZ and three punto Pelado near Playas in Ecuador.... Yeah thats it, been there done that, heading to Namibia-south Africa-Madagascar-China later this year
Posted by: mexisurf at January 27, 2004 03:09 PMmexisurf....what the frick do you do for a living?! let us mere mortals know so that we can change jobs and get hooked up with risiculous travel locs too! word.
Posted by: ck at January 27, 2004 03:17 PMpassed on rockaway this morning..in retrospect it looked pretty fun..eightwest your stoked!
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2004 03:27 PMWhat else, I'm a teacher.
Posted by: mexisurf at January 27, 2004 03:50 PMHey, check out my Mexico story and pics in the latest Surfers Path issue 41. Lates p
Posted by: mexisurf at January 27, 2004 03:52 PMno way! Hrothbart.. i didn't mean any disrespect. You were totally making and riding tons of waves. big set waves too! I watched you score a few after i got out and was kinda bummed that i got out so soon.
cool.. it never ceases to amaze me when people get mentioned on the site end up reading and posting.
anyway.. also kudos to you for being out there all by your lonesome. You also looked to have a giant hole in your wetsuit. crazy.
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 03:56 PMI get as much respect as I deserve so no worries. I was wondering if that was you when you paddled out but I thought the Turd would be browner.
I do have a giant hole in my wetsuit but I can't bring myself to get it fixed and be out of the water for a week or two. If you keep paddling and riding it ain't so bad...
Posted by: Hrothbart at January 27, 2004 04:03 PMyou're hard-core Hrothbart.. It makes me cold just thinking about that hole. brrr..
mexisurf - very cool that you got published in surfer's path.. i'll go check that shit at my local newsstand in a few minutes.
jdz - you're psyched either way homie. The waves in the maldives just look so absolutely perfect. crazy. The story of Tony Hussein (first surfer in the maldives) is pretty gnarly.
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 04:13 PMnice lil' drop
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 04:14 PMagreed!!!! I can not wait to be on a boat in the middle of the ocean with nothing to do but SURF!!!
Posted by: jdz at January 27, 2004 04:26 PMOB: looks rabid. It's frothing at the mouth. Plain old froth on the inside up to plus 2 foot OH peaky froth farther out. Less face, lots of thick and capriciously thumping foam. Water moving in all directions. Onshores. However! There is a solid clearing of rain and clouds to the west, to the east a rainbow sparkles over distant Pacheco. A sign? One genius has paddled out and is picking off short and fickle head highs to eight footers. I haven't the foggiest idea how he is pulling this off. He's right in the soup but somehow is nabbing drops without getting pounded. All you fellow geniuses, if you love the rabid conditions, right now could be a window. Wooeee...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 27, 2004 04:54 PMsharkbait - thanks for the reports!
Posted by: at January 27, 2004 05:02 PMcool sandspit vid
Posted by: e at January 27, 2004 05:49 PMhttp://www.wetsand.com/resource.asp?ResourceID=2063
wow sandspit, i remember this one video of curren getting the longest barrel ever at that place..
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2004 06:02 PMBoat trips??
Naw. For that kinda cash, stay at Tavarua.
Boat trips look really cool when you see the resulting footagte of the surf, but what you don't see is the footage of life on the boat. You can have all that and more at Tavarua.
Posted by: blakestah at January 27, 2004 07:14 PMWhen you travel, it is best to support the locs not steal from them, like the boys at Tavarua did. There are plenty of home style outfits in Fiji and hitchen a boat out to the other breaks is easy. Frigates is the mirror image of Cloud break. I find it safe to say that Fijians resent the Tavarua guys stealing that island and hiring the "lucky " locs to protect them.
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