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I slept in this morning.
I woke up briefly at 6:30, thought about p-town, thought about the Jetty, considered the raw dwindling swell, considered the still-potent runoff toxicity, considered the mucky onshore wind.. and.. fell back to sleep. If you're not working today you could definitely work out a session later in the day. The swell is dropping fast. Papa buoy is down to 8ft 10seconds, SF is at 10ft 11seconds.
soo.. hopefully tomorrow will shape up for us dawn-patrollers.
I feel strangely out-of-sorts after 3 days out of the ocean. It feels like some rudimentary component of my psychology is empty, or askew. I feel out of touch with the flow of waves and of riding them. It doesn't feel good.
All you injured and land-locked surfers, i feel for you. It takes strength and courage to keep the surfing fire burning in the face of such obstacles. I think that if i suffered a big injury or was forced to move to Arizona.. or even Berkeley i would suffer some serious withdrawal and depression. Even when i have a 5 day cold or something i can't stand to watch surf movies or look at surf media. I shove all my surf mags deep in some closet and push all my energy into music or reading or twiddling my thumbs or something. Surfing creates such a passionate love-affair with those it touches. While in the throws of it you feel euphoric and fulfilled, cleansed and energized. Your core feels mellowed and you feel like you're tapped into some secret life-source that not everyone knows about. The flip side is that when you've been touched by the surfing bug but you are then blocked from tapping in.. bad things can happen... at least for me... ha ha!! but.. there will always be more waves, more days, more seasons, more offshores and more barrels.. whether it's tomorrow or next year or ten years from now. Life is short but it's also long..
... or something..
surfing rules.
montara
jersey a few weeks ago (sean brady photos)
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jeff divine photos
Posted by: at February 4, 2004 10:59 AMDoes anyone know if Mavs broke yesterday?? Any riders/stories??
OB: if you have a fetish for collecting your own stool samples, by all means paddle out today! Still posted here, at least as of this morning. Mostly sunny and calm, swell way down, very fickle - some cranky but surfy peaks earlier this morning, now it's about 3/4 unpredictable mush to 1/4 closeouts, waist high on up. Changes fast. No one out. Beware the siren call of poo water!
Patience and no worries I'll be out of town shortly so the next week or two should have perfect surf conditions ;)
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 4, 2004 11:35 AMRe: Mavericks breaking yesterday: my guess would be not until mid/late afternoon, after the tide had dropped considerably.
Posted by: Jimmie at February 4, 2004 11:36 AMblakestah - was it my imagination, or was there a lot of west in yesterday's swell? I didn't check the buoys, just got some phonecalls re: conditions and saw it myself about 5:30pm.
On another topic: any more word on the tow-ins in SF yesterday? I noticed a couple of late posts to yesterday's discussion here and added one of my own - any more info on who, what, when, where (well, maybe leave off on where), and most important: WHY?
Dunno bout Mavs. Not much west in it yesterday - check pwizardry.com/buoy - from early morning on it was mostly 300 degrees or further north.
Two days of surf coming up, and then more Sunday Monday.
e - life has its own stoke - a little more subdued than surfing - but there, and easily tapped into. Time out of the water lets you see things like that more clearly. I've lived years away from the ocean before, and it wasn't all suffering. Just the first 2-3 months.
Posted by: blakestah at February 4, 2004 11:52 AMawesome photos today, e. jeff divine is amazing!
i still can't believe the towing-in actually happened. especially there. seems like watercops would have been all over that scene...it's not exactly, uh, clandestine...crazy.
i wonder if jetskis are going to become like cell phones...a really good idea that ends up making things way too easy and, in some cases, completely messes things up.
thanks for the good word, blakestah...
Posted by: friendly at February 4, 2004 12:01 PMI'm wondering if the niceness crew has an opinion on riding TRUE fishes in the bay area surf (Marin spots, OB, Linda Mar and points south). In particular, I am considering getting a fish board shaped by manny caro, mandala custom shapes, and wondering if he has a shaping reputation on this blog/board, good or bad?
Posted by: steamwand at February 4, 2004 12:01 PMfunny you mention jet skis. yesterday, i saw a couple of guys dropping their jet ski with surfboards at a put-in off bridgeway in sausalito -- right around noon. i thought they maybe exploring the outer, outer breaks beyond the gg bridge.
shit... it was probably them towing-in at FP. shoulda trashed their car when i had a chance. i'll keep an eye on them. i work right across the street from the put-in.
Posted by: cdub at February 4, 2004 12:10 PMthat crew was returning from the potatoe patch. not sure how they made out or what their names were.
they looked to be just hacking around. had nothing to do with the size of the swell at those "other" "paddle" spots....hah!
relax....paddle surfing is safe in SF.
Posted by: tom at February 4, 2004 12:17 PMJet skis in surfing are good for two things: 1) For 2 hot girls (sorry ladies) to bring me a gatorade mid-session and maybe even a snickers/clif bar/funky brownie/etc. or 2) For water rescues at some of the insane breaks such as Mavs, Jaws, Cortes, etc. where surfers are pushing the boundaries of surfing.
Steamwand, go for the fish! They are sick and spring/summer is right around the corner. Mandala Boards look pretty cool as well. Well crafted.
Posted by: Kaiser at February 4, 2004 12:21 PMCopied from my last post to yesterday's discussion of tow-ins (actually posted early this a.m.):
Believe me, I have great admiration for some of the stuff surfers like Kalama and Laird have done. However, I once saw them in a piece of video on some Hawaiian travel show: they were racing around on PWCs, jamming over coastal rock formations as the surge would wash over them - heedless of mussels, anenomes, starfish, etc. It was like watching a bunch maniacs on dirtbikes ripping up a meadow of wildflowers.
Just my $.02, but I think PWCs should be regulated in the surf zone.
Posted by: Jimmie at February 4, 2004 12:33 PMsteamwand: of the four boards i have (6-9 thruster, 7-2 fish, 7-10 egg, 9-0 log) i ride the fish probably 80% of the time. unless it's totally macking (in which case i don't have the right board anyways, i need a mini-gun or something) or ultra tiny (which it hardly ever is here anyways) it is a great and versatile board. as long as you can duck-dive it (and you're not some total ripper who wants to be able to do risickulous 360's / off the soup cutbacks / aerials and stuff) i think you'll find it to be loads of fun...
Posted by: paul b at February 4, 2004 01:18 PMthanks for your input on the fish, guys. i want something fast and fun, that can explore different parts of the wave, and also is light and small for carrying on treks to tucked away spots. i'm talking 5'8"-5'10". i'm 5'2". i guess my concern is that it will come out from under me in hollow conditions. but i think i'm gonna go for it. and my opinion on the jetski thing: they stink, they're loud, keep them away from my surf spots. but if they want to charge the patch on them, more power.
Posted by: steamwand at February 4, 2004 01:36 PMjust go this..
There has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach
monitoring points in:
Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Open
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Open
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted
Follow the link below to see Earth 911's detailed map indicating
current
status:
http://www.earth911.org/WaterQuality/default.asp?beach_id=49&cluster=3
For more information on beach and ocean water quality see Oceana's web
Posted by: e at February 4, 2004 01:39 PMpage:
http://www.oceana.org/index.cfm?sectionID=25
Yeah - I'm not sure a true fish is 7 feet long. There is a replica of a G&S fish at SF Surfshop right now, a little under 6 ft, swallow tail. Fish should be flat through the tail, wide in the tail, and spin like a top. Keel fins for an original, although I think they ought to be toed in a little and canted a little.
I had a blast on a twinzer fish last August - I think it was 5'10". Whereas they trim well down the line, they don't bottom turn with grace, and are quite a challenge in overhead beach stuff.
Schultze looked at the Vicente storm drain Monday morning just after the downpour - water was coming out so fast it was like a big geyser - spouting 30 ft in the air.
Posted by: blakestah at February 4, 2004 01:44 PMjust got a new 20" apple cinema display at work about 20 minutes ago.... the grey of this page has never looked so bright. so sick!
Posted by: bbr at February 4, 2004 02:52 PMsurf dvd night at BBR's work!
Posted by: e at February 4, 2004 03:38 PMpapa buoy's back up to 10ft 20seconds.. geez.. can't we just get some mellow 'tweener days at the beach? but.. i shouldn't say such things.. we could be in texas waiting for gulf swells.. or on the east coast freezing.
Posted by: at February 4, 2004 03:47 PMI wouldn't sweat it, the new juice will not be here for the morning.
But the afternoon, ESPECIALLY CLOSE TO THE LOW, will be all-time. 8-10 ft faces on the shallow outer bars, reeling 20 second energy from 300 degrees, a preferred direction, kinda sparse. It's gonna be real good, but not in a kill-you kinda way, in a juicy solidly overhead outer bar niceness kinda way.
I'd shoot video if I could shoot video in the afternoon.
Posted by: blakestah at February 4, 2004 04:26 PMThe discussion of the dimensions of a fish reminds me of this old 'Surfboard Anatomy' feature on Surfline:
Posted by: mwsf at February 4, 2004 04:54 PMhttp://www.surfline.com/mag/features/anatomy/anatomy_flash.html
i never knew i rode a high performance funboard..i like the sound of that..tomorrow sounds nice too..maybe there will be a rolling black out at my work, the kind of rolling black out where the lights dont come back on for hours and hours..at which point i would go surf riding..
Posted by: bagel at February 4, 2004 05:24 PMheh. monday morning when we did water samples, martini ck was washed out and waist deep.
steam, re: fish + hollow surf: it's doable, the drop just gets a little more interesting. i've got a bonzer setup:
... in the summer i take the small outer (fcs) fins out, and it gets real skatey. put 'em back in, in the fall, for more hold. probably ride this board about 60% of the time all told.
ymmv, just tossing my .02 in.
Posted by: grant at February 4, 2004 05:25 PMHey,
Posted by: at February 4, 2004 07:55 PMDig your report, free and fun.....I like that. Saw your shout out for some good books, and seein' as how I've been injured for a month and might be dry for another few weeks, I've been doin' a lot of reading. I haven't read much surf literature, but the best I've read is Daniel Duane's Caught Inside.....the guy can write about surfing and it's all local. Also, a not as good autobiography is On a Wave by Thad Ziolkowski (Florida Surfer), but my favorite book is James Dickey's To The White Sea....I can't convey how good I think this book is. Also, for a complete 180, check out some war reporting books, fucking tight story, it's all real and sick for its graphic and realistic war cam effect, My War Gone By I Miss it So, by Anthonly Loyd......those should hold you for a day or so, but if you want to tweak it anymore, check out Jarhead by ? , a damn good war book about the first Gulf War, but I really recommend To The White Sea, and you might know Dickey, he wrote Deliverance and is now considered, although dead, one of the greatest contemporary poets of our time...he kicks so mucha ass that he wrote books and taught college to support his poetry........keep on readin' on when you can't get wet....
Is that really a bonzer?
Looks more like a quad.
Bonzer double fin: two keel fins, both canted a lot. Both fins similar in size.
Twinzer double fin (after Jobson, very similar to the Supercharger):: One normal thruster fin, the second smaller fin forward, outboard a little, and with less toe and cant than the main fin. Usually ridden by grumpy old men
Quad: two thruster-like fins, both normal thruster shape, and similar in toe-in angle, and cant.
Rusty C-5: nearly useless. Just a really bad attempt at a twinzer by people who don't understand what they are doing.
Quads are really popular among kneelos.
Twinzer (not the best pic to show the smaller forward fin having less toe-in)
Here's a quad with the leading fins larger - note the fins are nearly parallel, and shaped like thruster fins.
Here is a bonzer double fin, note the keel fins
Rusty C-5
Posted by: blakestah at February 4, 2004 07:58 PMI just realized that I'm sending my daughter to Bonzer School. She goes to C5 day-care (Civic Center Child Care Corporation) near my work.
It is fitting since I mostly ride Bonzers out at OB - except of course when I am on my gun or my longboard.
I have only owned Eaton Bonzers. So I can't tell you a lot about the merits or weaknesses of the C5 other than say that they do provide good childcare.
My main surfing partner, The Doof has owned a Twinzer, two Eaton bonzers, One Campbell bros 5 fin bonzer, and a couple bonzerized thrusters (he had one made by Scott Miller in Marin, and one by a local shaper in Kauai).
We both have a lot of fun at OB on our bonzers, they work well there.
I guess I should try a fish sometime. But then again, I have never owned anything smaller than 7'6"
Posted by: Friend #1 at February 5, 2004 09:22 AMim sarry but im only 14 and ive been shapping for 10 yaers and my boards are better than yours.
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