E's Surf Report: just what the dr. ordered

tortured myself out from my cocoon-like bed this morning.. into the frigid, penalizing pre-dawn air. Damn.. it was cold!! Got outside and noticed the flags pointing offshore.. hmmm... very nice... Rolled to VFers.. didn't look fantastically amazing.. but.. i noticed glassy, pitching possibilities on the inside bar.. nobody out.. Cruised to Sloat just to get a lay of the beach.. The waves seemed to get larger as i headed south. Bigger and messier in the middle.. then squeaky clean at Sloat but waves couldn't decide whether to break on the outer or inner bars. Soo.. Lerm and i trekked it back up to VFers and immediately suited up and hit it.

and... Gawd Damn!!

it didn't look that great from the lot but once in the water is was nothing but head-high, offshore-groomed, barrelling niceness. Lots of bigger, windswell waves cruising in and buckling/throwing on shallow inside sandbars. After a long ride you were often punished and brutalized by rapid-fire hammering lips to the head.. but.. it was well worth it. Kaiser and Marco were out there for about 5 minutes and then left.. what happened to you guys? There were a fair share of closeouts but also a peppered plethera of imminently shreddable waves. I watched one blond shortboarder lock into a long, head-high-plus, totally glassy barrel. I probably caught around 20 waves.. 10 or so high quality. The steep drops often resulted in copious helpings of speed.. which often led to thigh-quivering turns and powerful lip-bashings.. The sun was out.. the crowd was somewhat thick for a monday morning.. but very mellow and plenty of waves for everybody.

also.. makeable barrels!!!

barrels!

barrels

hopefully we'll have a whole week of this..

also.. i need to practice what i preach here.. but.. if you're about to paddle out at a huge, expansive beachbreak, and you see a bunch of surfers grouped in the same area.. but you then notice another peak down the beach with not many or no surfers.. go to that other peak. We all need to do what we can to spread the crowd at OB.

Check out some of this email that Jersey-charger Kus sent me.. He has a tendency to throw-up after wiping out on really cold days in jersey.. jeez! committed!
"yesterday was overhead and perfectly clean and barrelling!!!!! water temp in 30's though. It was my first successful overhead cold day in which I grabbed some screamingly powerful winter surf without "yacking"... my remedy is-whenever i bite it largely (everytime i try to do something stupid while in a 5 mil), i let myself ride whitewater straight into the beach, breathing deeply, then slowly get out of the water and relax for a minute in the sand. so i'm stoked.. cause even on wednesday, the session before, i was having a blast until a closeout barrel poked me on my face and drove me into the sand bar that was 6 inches below the surface, i paddle in and totally YAK all over my board, it was most non-triumphant!"

needless to say Kus isn't afraid to go for it.

great post from "Someone" (hope he doesn't mind me reposting here):

The last 24 hours have been the best I've had in years, no exaggeration. Last night I hung out with my girlfriend and her roommates. We went to Urth Cafe and then the Gypsy hookah place in Westwood. Everyone was in such a great mood, great vibes all around. I spent the night at her place and we stayed up till five Wonderful night, we talked things over and pretty much got on the same page, realized that we both are insanely happy the way things are going This morning she had to go to work, and I got to sleep in. After helping my dad do some odd jobs around our apartment building, my bro came up to usc, picked me up to go surfing, and gave me some psilocybe cubensis mushies We dosed, watched a little bit of Baraka, partook of some ganja to ease the stomach, and went surfing. I got to ride my brand new board for the first time, after an agonizing week of waiting for the thing to cure. The conditions were gnarly, STRONG wind howling down the beach, strait onshore. It was hectic, but there were some fun ones to be had. I felt so alive, so stoked, I was brimming with enthusiasm, love, I felt like screaming out there in that chaos. It was beautiful. My first wave was a bowling left, sketchy late take off. I started into my first bottom turn on that board and almost fell backwards, the thing TOOK OFF! Its so drivey, its insane. 6'1, real hard rails, rounded pin. I could tell from the first couple of waves that its the best board I've ever owned. Dan Cobely shapes insane boards. Anyways, we surfed in those conditions until we were so tired we had to go in. By this point we were trippin balls, sitting in the parking lot playing guitar and skating around on my friends mini. I was skating really well, doing these long drawn out pumps and backside drop knee turns around the cul-de-sac at the end of the lot. Shrooms help you realize how amazing the world is, they place you right there in the midst of life, raw and accessible. The combination of that, and the realization that I am in love, I can't communicate the waves of euphoria that I felt, pumping down the strand, under the sun, not a care in the world.

We decided to go on a full on skate sesh. Being three of us, we alternated being the driver and the skaters. We'd drive to 9th and John in MB, basically the top of the hill section. Then two of us would skate down the hills while the third followed us in the car. I was getting so into it, doing really good turns, really feeling the muscles in my leg contract and push against the board. It felt amazing. Then I hit a rock, flew off my board, landed on my face, flipped over. I ate shlt so hard~! It was allright though, I checked myself, just a little road rash and a few cuts. COuld have been much worse.

I'm back at SC now, recuperating from the best 24 hours I've had in years. I'm still brimming with stoke.

Life really goes in ups and downs. From this perspective, I realize that I was a little depressed last year, though I didn't see it then. For anyone that feels lonely, nervous about the future, take it from me, things can and will get better. Life is funny like that, dynamic and alive. Those same waves of change that we ride, they're manifestations of the fundamental waves that fuel the universe. The good, the bad, its all GREAT. It takes days like this to see that.

Sloat from friday (thanks Todd for the pic)
Sloooat!

i think this high pressure flow has been promoted as much as a big swell get's these days. 3 mornings of sweet no crowd bliss at SM and SC county sandbars. f*ck was it cold this AM. where was the hot offshore breeze? wish i had time to get to ob this morning. sounds a bit more organized up that way. my body fighting closed toe shoes and button down collar. nose happily draining as i type. sunrise feathing lips behind. already envious of your early morning opportunities in the great playground this week.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2004 11:17 AM

Also got a handful of photos from Friday around 11:30 (south end) before things turned ugly. Had a couple of good sessions at the Lane over the weekend. Shot the Volom ProAm on Saturday and watched these 90-lb. groms rip the place to shreds, followed by Peter Mel, etc. Now that puts one's surfing skills in perspective. Time for me to take up golf!

http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%206.htm (OB)
http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%207%20Volcom.htm (contest)

Posted by: Bruce at February 9, 2004 11:24 AM

SM near 3 amigos firing on Sun morning...saw a guy on a yellow board ripping it up with some nice drops.....

now, can we get those crap pots out of there....I feel like i'm gonna get clotheslined......

Posted by: jmb at February 9, 2004 11:38 AM

Argghhh! Gotta love surfing...

E, what you talking about? I was sitting right there for like an hour. A stones throw away. I did have to run around 8 as I had a meeting that was later postponed. That always pisses ya off on days like today. Interesting waves nonetheless. Nice bowls. Didn't get a ton but I got one DOPE-ASS ride on a sweet left. Days like this @ VFW's are sweet. If you are down with super critical take-offs with the reward being potential shackage, today is your day. VFers loves this set up.

What a weekend eh? Super clear and crisp all weekend. Saturday wasn't fruitful in terms of waves but yesterday made up for it. Seemed like it was "Concord Day at the Coast" yesterday. At least in HMB it was. Good to see our east bay brethern out enjoying a sample of our daily lives. Even better to see them gone this morning.

No offense if you live in Concord or the like, I have heard you have great golf out in those parts!

Posted by: Kaiser at February 9, 2004 11:39 AM

i saw that left kaiser.. niiiice!!

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 11:45 AM

Fuck, I was hoping someone did! That thing came out of nowhere, totally unassuming, then BAM!

Nuggetty if you will...

Posted by: Kaiser at February 9, 2004 12:10 PM

yo jmb,

let's keep specific locations out of the posts, please. use E as an example. he rarely specify's a praticular spot and when he does it's a brand name any ho-dad can find it spot(bless you e). otherwise it's vague generalization that allow the discriminate earned local knowledge types the 411 to read between the lines. the entitled natives thank you.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2004 12:19 PM

jmb and 3to5.. Kaiser and i also sampled some of the your local SM-county Sunday-morning goods.. first time i had ever surfed this particular spot.. it was fun... and a bit stony.. hmmm... I bet it was off the hook for the dawn-patrol.. we got there a little late but it was still good.. some big walls loping in.

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 12:27 PM

Aw shucks 3to5, not sharing among the niceness? sol. Spent most of the weekend working myself. Got out twice but am trying to encourage a friend who has shown lots of gumption on her own, so I was hating life at that uber secret spot that a certain tbell fronts. Geez, is Lindamar the worst wave in the world? Had to find a bit of zen mellowness to deal with having driven most of the length of OB, drooling, while my friend said, 'uhm, too big for me.'

Posted by: ben at February 9, 2004 01:22 PM

stoney? was it the wave or the drive.....or both?

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 9, 2004 01:33 PM

1PM surf report--middle beach.
FUN FUN FUN, not 3x EPIC but really damn good. high tide was definately HELPING!!! yeah you heard it here first, the high tide kept the energy from being lost on the outer bars and then moved to the inside with nice barrels and good solid shoulders. (don't tell Wise I said that), sets around head high+ go get it before the N winds fuck it up.

Posted by: dsx at February 9, 2004 01:46 PM

e- was that you at a sf locale around 3:30 on Sunday?...looked like a mocha colored board to me.

Posted by: g at February 9, 2004 02:02 PM

g - yup

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 02:18 PM

Cool. Saw your first ride (nice rail grab), looks like ya got slowed up by the guy on the left. I was gonna hit it but had an appt
g

Posted by: g at February 9, 2004 02:25 PM

deeamnnn! sounds like fun dp! my weekend got off to a bad start when i started illin' on Friday afternoon! however, i laid low on Fri eve/Sat and then by Sunday felt well enough to try to make up for my dry Sat with a double-sesh yesterday. found lots of mediocre waves in the morning...and then a few meaty walls on the low tide at sunset! unfortunately, when i woke up this morning my bugs seemed to have returned so i had to pass today. : ( hopin' for manana. great to hear that folks scored fun seshies this weekend!

Posted by: ck at February 9, 2004 02:36 PM

let's talk about sloat on sunday. even though i didn't catch many waves, that shit was fun. big freight trains breaking on the outer bars. not many people out - maybe the masses were held at bay by the towering shorebreak. and such a beautiful day.

after reading blakestah's forecast, i better pull my ass out of bed early this week...

Posted by: caveman at February 9, 2004 03:41 PM

Okay Caveman, sunday.
i surfed sloat from 1:30-3pm and it was really fun for the first 45min i grabbed a nice left and a really fast right hander then i got sucked down the beach and spent the next 45min paddling north to just stay in one place, i grabbed a shitty left then a huge right that closed out. by the time i was back up and paddling out i was past the 2nd lot and almost to the cliffs. at which point i called it a day. yeah, the crowds were light, parking lot packed with tourists, overall fun and meaty but too much paddling vs. surfing for the quality of waves.

Posted by: dsx at February 9, 2004 04:03 PM

i tried surfing the sloat shorey yesterday. got my ass beat. having a hangover definitely did not help.

Posted by: bbr at February 9, 2004 04:09 PM

jersey yesterday

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 05:26 PM

more jersey

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 05:28 PM

archy (pic from shorescrew)

Posted by: e at February 9, 2004 05:50 PM

What is your fucking deal? You say find your own peak. Practice what you preach bitch. You don't have to tell everybody in the world where to surf. It's easy enought to figure it out on your own dumb fuck. You're probably the same as all the rest of the idiots with their little cell phone earpieces telling all their bros where to surf. You are like a bunch of fucking sheep.
Eat a bag of dicks bitch!!!

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