E's Surf Report: powerful, strangely shaped, offshores

This morning had all the makings of an epic session.. but.. it didn't totally come together in my neck of the woods. Ran down the street in my wetsuit, anticipating the possiblity of OB perfection, but holding also in my head the futility of expecting perfection. Paddled out just as the sun started to peak over mt. davidson. The surface was glassy and the waves really chunky. Thick, head-high waves broke with aggression on shallow inside sandbars. Barrels galore. everything barrelling. angry barrels. But maybe about 10% makeable. I locked into 5 or 6 whippy, ledging, racing rights where i charged through the steep drops and then pumped for all i was worth down the line to stay ahead. I was able to translate that speed into a gauge or two on a few of 'em. I enjoyed one particular take-off when everything flowed nicely. A larger set wave began to grow and divot and i saw it was going to peel right. I spun and positioned myself under the ledge.. then took about two paddles and hopped to my feet and tucked down just ast the thing began to throw.. but.. sorrowfully... the lip was behind me and i was racing ahead. It felt good to take-off under the ledge and be balanced and poised. So often i'm just ever-so-slightly off-balance and it detracts from my ability to utilize the speed of the drop into down-the-line antics. At one point Lerm and i were sitting out there.. getting pulled this way and that by the bizarre/annoying/unpredictable currents when this glorious, ridiculous, cover-shot wave rose up about 50 yards north of us and just barrelled and spit and went crazy. It was a huge, throaty, sucking, breathing cylinder but totally makeable and wide open. I couldn't help but to let out a loud "Whoooo!" That thing was just beautiful. I caught a few more and called it a session. Very shifty out there were i was. But hall-of-fame waves coming through here and there.

the new 15 second energy is on the buoys. I only witnessed a few of these sets in the water.

sounds like Kaiser made out real nice down at the southern end of the beach. this is what he had to say,
"My second wave, I got a nice bowly wave, made a sweet
drop on the faster moving beast, beautiful bottom turn
merely to set my rail and then the most beautiful wall
of water making its best canvas impression just kept
leading me down the line. The lip was clearly in
sight as I just tried to hold my line. 30-40 yards of
this and my head just seeing the lip over me. I cant
claim it but I have to believe that was one of my best
waves at OB!"

One thing you can do with a bit o' speed (Sarge's pics)

After wiping out on this floater at Backdoor Shea Lopez needed both his anterior cruciate ligament and posterior cruciate ligament to be replaced, and his medial ligament repaired as well... gnarly!

how was the size compared to yesterday? same, smaller, cleaner?

Posted by: dsx at February 10, 2004 10:24 AM

I'd say the size was similar to yesterday. But the shape wasn't as consistent, there weren't as many rideable waves. But there were better waves in the mix if you could find them. It was more dredging and barrelling.

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 10:27 AM

cool, thanks. gotta work until around 2pm, i will take my chances in the afternoon and give a quick report when i get back in the office....its like a really long lunch break, i just keep telling everyone the sandwich line was out the door.

Posted by: dsx at February 10, 2004 10:31 AM

vfers was fun! inconsistent but not overly so. my first morning session in weeks and very worth it. i hope it picks up a bit for tomorrow's early. here's a few new shots my friend brett roldan took:

Posted by: bbr at February 10, 2004 10:34 AM

Whoa, did I really write that?

Today was a total surprise. In terms of the wave size, I seriously thought it was much smaller. After hitting VFers yesterday, it was much smaller this a.m. when I first saw it. Drove south, checked some other "paved lots", looked mushy so I headed back to the middle of the beach. Over a dune, didn't look that good so I just figured I would surf somewhere that I could rise off afterward. I really didn't think it would be that good... But the offshores were NICE!

Saw Loon in the lot, Christian buzzin' around, etc. Thought I just should get in the water regardless.

Fairly easy paddle and damn, the grooming began! You could tell the swell was just hitting. Very sparse but super organized. 3-4 in a set. That typcial OB characteristic where you get a huge bowl to your right or left about 50 yards out of reach knowing that there is one coming for you any minute. There were a ton of waves that went by unridden. Smaller ones (head high) were actually tough to get into. The meatier ones were the shizzle! Fuck, I wish someone was taking pics out there! So freaking clean and canvas like. Fuck work, go surf.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 10, 2004 10:42 AM

Off Topic Humor: http://www.kaicurry.com/gwbush/dishonestdubya.html

Posted by: Dennis at February 10, 2004 10:46 AM

beautiful morning! serious photo opportunities.. went out a little south of chalets..had a fun time but a little wave repelent..kinda wished i went out at sloat..looked maybe doable for my smaller board, maybe not the sets though that were really holding up..i heart ob..

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2004 11:09 AM

Last night my sleep consisted of 7 45-minute naps. In between naps was 15 to 30 minutes of either listening for my one-year old daughter to start caughing, getting her back to sleep in her crib, administering cough medicine, or rocking her in the glider. Oh yes, and a few shorter waking spells where I fussed over my wife who had it in hand.

I sleep lighter than my wife so I hear the girl first. And I wanted to do the lion's share of work since I would be cutting out for surf in the morning.

That is what got me through the night, the promise of good surf in the morning.

At 6:15, I was walking the promenade with the dog. I had my first ride a little before 7:00 smack dab in the middle o' the beach. Way to the North waves were peeling further outside, but too long away for me to try and investigate My peak was inconsistent. Just after my first wave a Freight Train left rolled through with two other bigguns and I had to roll under all of them. I then waited a long while for one to come to me.

To the South was looking a little more consistent so I ambled over there and met up with the Doof.

My first recognition it was him was as I side-slip-rail-grab-late-dropped a big left with him on the inside grinning at me.

We then proceeded to trade off big lefts for the next hour. One or two rights thrown in as well.

My best ride was one I had to fade right to get into, and at the end of my bottom turn, I skipped up to the nose to bring it up into high trim on the face of an almost too quickly peeling face. What a blast. Thinking about it now makes my back feel better, or is that the ibuprophen?

New swell is in the water, but it is very inconsistent. Two or three big sets in an hour. Hopefully tomorrow will be similar sized but more consistent. We can only hope.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 10, 2004 11:17 AM

hell yeah, kaiser.

it was great out there this morning. very cold, but the air is crisp and the water an inviting deep blue-green. when i first went out the action definitely seemed better on the outer bars, but as i went in, i noticed a decent number of guys hangin closer to the middle-inside. i did not snag any of the outside-outside set waves, which were gorgeous and connecting to the inner bars for long rides as kaiser described. i think that i saw christian out there, he caught a fairly long right off of a late drop on a peak that a longboarder who was parked further outside took left - a move i also tried, but the offshores held me back.

my last wave was a head high left, and as i dug into the bottom turn the sun sparkled through the tiny offshore-ripples weaving through the dark wall before me. i bellied-in smiling, and then looked back reluctantly as i left the water and saw the moon hanging above the lineup.

Posted by: loon at February 10, 2004 11:55 AM

crisp and clear. tide a little too low, several fast makeable walls. so irie that the wife, child, boss, and ocean all allowed a little window of offshore breeze sandbar action this am. stayed close to home and got a few nuggets. beautiful david puu' moments punching through the unmakeables looking down the line ....all alone. e, i hope you don't mind me dropping in on your scene here...but the gromlike stoke filled energy that prevails on your blog nurtures the stoke even as duty calls and become landlocked due to work.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 10, 2004 11:56 AM

right on loon, friend #1, Kaiser and Bagel.. sounds like people caught some "tasty" waves this morning. kewl. thanks for the desciptions. So fun to read during little programming breaks.

wish my office was near the beach.. lunchtime session!

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 11:59 AM

Wish my body could deal with a lunchtime sesh! Winds HARD offshore right now. Days like this should get the epic x3.

I am gonna miss days like these!

Posted by: Kaiser at February 10, 2004 12:06 PM

Good (for me at least) to see a glimpse of summer style OB swell in the middle of Feb. I can't take this 1.5 OH stuff that has been churning recently. I am off to Maui for 2 weeks on March 14th. Anyone have a good shaper/shop that I should talk to about buying a new board when I get there? E, I think that you have mentioned someone before.

Thanks guys for the daily good vibe...

Posted by: jardinee at February 10, 2004 12:31 PM

jardine,

i lved on maui for a little over a year in the late 80's. if marc angell is still shaping boards check him out. also check into dave mel, he's peter mel's uncle, the family owns freeline in sc. dave made me a ripping 6'6" that i still have.
lloyd ishimee was another local shaper and ripper. gerry lopez might still have a shop thier, but it's likely someone else shapes under his label. caution though, most boards made on the islands have way more rocker to deal with the fast moving open ocean waves. meaning that once your back at ob. the board might be a bit sluggish. vice a versa as well a mainland board with generally flatter bottom contours will be a bit skittish over thier. this matters more once your in OH surf.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 10, 2004 12:47 PM

my first ob sess in a while. even a managable day like today at ob can take my breath away/keep me breathing fast. went to a peak at sloat that no one was on (per e's suggestion), and was wishing for the first five minutes or so that someone was closer by. soon enough, though, after I had grabbed a couple of makeable shoulders, I had plenty of company. since i had to get in and out of the water before the 9 am chains clamped down, i had to be satisfied with a few shoulder rides, one good wipe out, and one good, ragdolling, green light searching trip below the white water of a set wave. mostly felt grateful to take in the beauty of feathering lips before the grind began.
by the by, nicers, thanks for the advice/input on the fish. i decided to go for it and hopeful will have a beautiful new schoolbus yellow mandala fish (5'6" futures canard quad clear fins, 16.5" x 21" x 16", 2-3/8" thick, 11" swallowtail) within the next few weeks.

Posted by: steamwand at February 10, 2004 01:05 PM

Todd W. just hooked it with a pic of OB from a few hours ago.

OB ledge

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 01:12 PM

Super fun session this morning at the south end. 7:15-10:15. Outter bars were fun, groomed, super carveable. I surfed my 6'8" which seemed quite appropriate even with 8 to 9 foot faces. Around 9:30 the outside started to close down and the inside started to fire. I'll try and upload a photo I snapped or place on golden-coast.com
I didn't have a watch and hoped to get out by 9:00 a.m. ... was surprised when someone told me "it's about 10"....argh....late again.

todd
golden-coast.com/surf

Posted by: Todd at February 10, 2004 01:20 PM

shoutout to shliz-oat! that shit was amazing this morning! couldn't have asked for a better day with a little size, offshores, and long lefts. somehow ended up north of the main crowd for the first hour, paddling into the sets and dodging the scratchers. caught some +head groaning, saucy lefts with ample room for turns. second hour karma didn't hold up but i was stoked to actually get out of bed early and hit the water before work.

and to the guy that lost his board while i was bottom turning and consequently ruined a wave - hold on to that shit!

Posted by: caveman at February 10, 2004 01:29 PM

that pic is gorgeous. props! glad i surfed today or i'd be shooting myself right now.

Posted by: bbr at February 10, 2004 01:41 PM

update report from the north end of middle beach....
definately NOT as good as yesterday. kinda a tweener day like not big enough for the outside with the high tide and bit too big and walled up for the inside to get a 3X Epic rating. a good day for sure, nice weather and clean condition but just not that many really good waves, that earlier pic is a perfect example way way way too fast too get any thing going on it but it looks good. i think thats the main thing right now it looks better than it is. i think everyone who got the low tide sloat sessions saw a much better version of the beach than those who waited. i checked sloat at noon, 1 guy way outside waiting waiting waiting and dumpy closeouts on the inside. rivera st. more of the same up north a little more shoulders and workable waves, vfws was tiny-barely chest high. thats how i saw it.

Posted by: dsx at February 10, 2004 02:05 PM

i second that emotion

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2004 02:12 PM

dsx - you make computer-shackled man feel good! I was just feeling that gut-wrenching jones to be out in the water. But.. now i can work in a little more peace.

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 02:13 PM

hey e-
i just call it like i see it. if it were as good as yesterday i would say get on it its awesome, but sadly i was hoping for similar conditions and it just wasnt. yesterday i think out of the 15 waves i got in, 2-3 closed out, today for the same amount of time in the water i got around 10 waves and 7 of them closed out on me. i think if this new energy pushes stronger the am sessions on the low tide COULD be really good. but then again this is OB it could be great or shitty you just never know.

Posted by: dsx at February 10, 2004 02:25 PM

I have got to get out of this place (my day-jail is located just up the road and across the lake from one of my favorite Ocean Beach spots) and get in the water!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bless you all for gettin' some today and sharing the stoke. Contrary to how some might feel, hearing that it's happening out there helps keep me goin'!

Posted by: Jimmie at February 10, 2004 02:39 PM

hey christian,

nice to meet ya out there today. the description of how you look in your hood confirmed my suspicions and has me chuckling. too bad the outer bars didn't keep firing - but tomorrow seems very promising. more formal introductions next time...

Posted by: loon at February 10, 2004 03:04 PM

I roped a few at blakestah st, just barely in sight of Friend #1 St. Maybe 10 people out within view, kinda inconsistent on the outside, fun to be riding the UFO again.

Looks like the bottom drops out again on Saturday, or late Friday.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2004 03:21 PM

definitely a great morning at wilhelmina's! (as if that little stretch of beach needed another moniker...)

surprisingly shifty--because the waves that broke looked so perfect--but some very good fun. lots of people sitting too far out, myself included for the first :15. size sounds to have been about 3/4 of what sloat served...but very clean and sparkling. and a cinch of a channel! today was the first time i've ever gotten outside at OB with a dry head. EVER! even when it's kneehigh, i somehow manage to get my hair wet within 10 feet of shore. but, anyway: not today. that was awesome.

i so love that :45 minutes of surf can have me smiling all freaking day...thanks again for the extended board loan, ck!! hope you can make it manana.

Posted by: friendly at February 10, 2004 03:31 PM

Hey, my street runs parallel to the beach, more or less. I guess it ends at Ulloa.

Blakestah, don't push that recovery too hard.
Today was a good day to pick though I guess.

I am hoping manana brings the same size and period but more consistant sets. Any chance of that.

Also, how would the UFO work on a bonzer I wonder?

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 10, 2004 03:34 PM

AND thanks for the forecasting, blakestah, and for posting the photos and explanation of your system. even non-engineers like to know how things get built...now i get it. very cool.

Posted by: friendly at February 10, 2004 03:35 PM

Tomorrow should start similar to today, then fade.

Thursday quite small.

I tend to think of all the outer sunset folks in terms of their east-west cross st. Or, whatever east-west cross street I see them surf the most.

Friend #1 - learn to strengthen your legs. When the baby cries, practice this new leg strength. Then roll over and go back to sleep.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2004 03:54 PM

offshore stiffies! man, that was a crisp one. cool air, chilly-ass water, ice-cream headache even through the hood. Got pitched a few times - the extra three strokes on the paddle-in go from recommended to mandatory with the east wind. Big gaps between sets, kind of tempting to chase the inside scraps between surges, but we know where that gets us. Caught inside. Sharp lips cracking down, but not so much size as to decapitate. This air + the hoped-for long-period stuff could be amazing.

Posted by: redworm at February 10, 2004 04:14 PM

jardine,
Lived on Maui for over a decade.
Maui Tropix on Dairy Rd., in Kahalui.
You will see shop as you leave airport on right.
Hi-Tech surf shop In Kahalui is also a great place to buy board. If in Lahaina Local Motion
is also fine. Respect the local and have fun.
njssurf

Posted by: njssurf at February 10, 2004 04:14 PM

question for Blake:

Wednesday the 11th is looking like a moderate NW day, very similar to today with 4-6 foot surf.

Thursday the 12th is when our next NW swell is due. This is from a Western Pacific storm we�ve been tracking since last week riding the jet stream into a high latitude in the Gulf. This will increase by Saturday. For Thursday, size is expected in the 6-8 foot range.

Thats the wetsand report.
Why are they calling increasing surf on thursday? are they tracking the same shit as you? just curious as to which board to bring to work!

Posted by: dsx at February 10, 2004 04:15 PM

Blakestah - Just trying to stay cagey as to where I live.

Has your second kid started daycare yet, and if so have you begun the year-long infirmaty that goes with it?

Yikes, it is by far the worst thing I have ever delt with.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 10, 2004 04:28 PM

Hey blakestah, just checked out your fin info page. good stuff! I'm curious what type of board is most appropriate for your setup (given your testing to date of course)--long, short, hard rails? bottom contours? flatter rocker? Is this looking to work for particular wave sizes/characteristics, or is it a more all-around sytem? This is great stuff, I'm fully stoked on your efforts just from reading about it.

Posted by: ben at February 10, 2004 04:47 PM

from the kneedforspeed site

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 05:02 PM

oops..

thats www.kneed4speed.com

Posted by: e at February 10, 2004 05:03 PM

that photo has been photoshoped! thats a san diego skyline in the back. if it was a true photo that wave would be breaking in san diego bay..umpossable! cant fool me kneed4speed.com!

-photoshop DIC

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2004 05:34 PM

hmmm i could be wrong cause the other photo on the sight looks kind of legit, and i can barely remember the set up at IB..uuuu, ya! i know everything! looks fake though especially where the peir hits the water...

Posted by: bagel at February 10, 2004 05:45 PM

Wow, that Golden-coast picture is sick. What a day!

Posted by: dano at February 10, 2004 06:18 PM

photoshoped.

Posted by: headdip at February 10, 2004 06:22 PM

Not a bad day. I only caught a pair of waves but ,I also flopped on two great peeelers. Despite being sooo cool eveyone seemed to have fun and like yesterday I saw a bunch of heads have the time of thier lives. I was slightly jealous at first, but how can I be pissed. WOODY got barrelled, I saw the Italian girl (who is very married) get a great wave and charge on some others,Philipino MIKE was back in the water with the japanese posse and everyone was chill. I hope the dynamic lasts. I'll do my best.

ALL-

Central America was mentioned a couple of posts back.

I wont be able to go on this trip but if you have some $$$ and two months

http://www.hometownmedia.tv

Nick is a great guide and this could be a surf exp of a lifetime. You'll get plenty of video, it's hella CHEAP and this this expedition has some other star wannabe potential. In any event, I wish I could go, but from reading all these posts, everyone has the attitude that Nick is looking for. Spots are limited!I dont get a commish but let Nick know that I let you know wassup.

Kaiser-
I dont think we will miss days like these cause those hollow head high souths will be comming in a couple of months. I miss the DOH already and I am glad to announce that thanks to THINK SKATEBOARDS I'll be here another winter rather than hauling my ass back east to Chi-town :)to get some more NEXT YEAR!!!!! NORCAL FOREVER!!!!!!!

peace
pez

Posted by: pez at February 10, 2004 06:59 PM

Friend #1 - the infant in child care and everyone gets sick thing lasts about 2 winters. Then, it seems like everyone's immune system gets a little boost, and only the baby gets sick.

ben - the fin system is designed, and when tuned up provides, more drive for its drag than any other fin system. It benefits from boards with little directionality in the tail - flat in the tail, down rails in back, rocker like that of a thruster. Other than that you can go short or long. You need to play with the fin position in the board (up or back up to about 1/2" from its starting position), and the side-to-side force, but then it is dialed. It is a system with good speed and turning ability, which I think works just about in anything. Although, you tune it up differently depending on board speed. Bigger waves, stiffer fin.

I dunno about wetsand - I never paid them any attention. I am not seeing much for Thursday morning, maybe a little more in the afternoon, but nothing yet. I think the earliest swells from the weekend's storm haven't been created yet - nothing to chart. I charted it from this morning (10 AM, or so), and got swell due in after dark Friday. Bottom line, Thursday early looks small, we'll know tomorrow about Thursday later. Of course, it'll hit the SE Papa buoy at least a day before it gets to us - and you can check blakestah.com/surf tomorrow.

Posted by: blakestah at February 10, 2004 08:13 PM

an interesting read...but probably all bullshit.

again.

rising tide reefs are the call....

let's compare notes tomorrow eve....

Posted by: tom at February 10, 2004 11:12 PM

Reply to comments on my photo posted by Bagel on Feb. 10. It's real, it's not photo shopped and it is of Imperial Beach. The angle is very deceptive. Makes it appear to be breaking inside San Diego Bay. I've sold a ton of this photo.

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