skunkage
fuuuckk.. After a lengthy 4-hour monster-jam last night i fricken pried myself out of bed this morning around 6:15 in hopes of catching a jetty session. Here are some surf-spot observations:
Sloat - hurly-burly, hard-onshores, biggest waves head-high++, messy, disorganized, sunny, swell smaller than yesterday (8ft 13sec on the SF buoy), nobody out. I watched a smattering of rideable waves, but you'd have to work for em' and really want it. I'd say doable but ugly.
Smoke-a-jay - strait onshore. hard. a few waves loping in. long waits between rideable waves. icy wind stinging your face as you sit out there waiting in poo water. nobody out.
Lindy - super ugly. strait onshore. a few people suiting up in the lot. crumbly, ugly but rideable for the grim and stout.
Montara - Raging onshore wind. I barely even gave it a glance. the flag near the charthouse looked like it was going to rip off its pole.
Jetty!! - nope. the wind was almost offshore but the waves were doing the typical Jetty limbo where they would rise and threaten to shape up nicely, but instead would throw quickly at the top of the wave but mush and peter into nothing very quickly. There were a dismal few rideable sections but they weren't consistently breaking in any one place.. Two guys sat out at the main corner and waited for 15 minutes while i watched. They didn't catch one wave. I'd say if you're suffering from an unquenchable desire to get wet you could find some action there.. but the high tide might be killing it now? I'd advise a santa cruz mission. in fact.. i'd strongly advice a santa cruz mission.. especially considering the pic that dano just sent me. (from yesterday?)
some gaffs posted by trogdor on the surfermag board
martin potter
slates
ian
I'm pretty sure this is slappy garcia.. deeeamn!
bagus (which means "good" in bahasa indonesian) posted a friendly message to all y'all last night.. i'll repost it here
Salamat Jalan!
I am far away from my home on Oahu sitting in Kuala Lumpur at the COP7 meeting (Convention on Bio Diversity). This seems a far cry from the niceness discussion and stoke on surf, but this international, global convention helps protect the places in the world we all wish to visit and surf some day. I have been focusing on the marine and coastal protected areas along with invasive species. Anyways, I just want to thank the niceness crew for their stoke on surf, life and music that has kept me going day after day of 15 hour plus negotiations.
Mahalo!
Searoom also posted a provocative message last night.. It's another take on ye ol' secret spot dilemna. i'll repost here..
hey Christian,
with all due respect, take my Pappy's advice and don't shit in your own bed. i grew up surfing at a 2nd tier SoCal point break. life was good, i learned to respect the older guys, I found my niche in the line-up. and then the county came in and tore down all the houses to make way for a public beach park which still has never been put together properly. now the LA transplant japanese surf mafia have taken over the place:lesson one.
I don't mind hiking to surf spots. i took a semi-friend/co-worker to a spot and we had an amazing dp day. a week later i was hiking back from a morning sesh and who was heading up the trail? yep, mr coworker with 4(!) friends along for the ride. He was 'afariad of sharks", so he brought along some friends (chum?): lesson 2.
the net has enabled all of us to share info freely and maximize our bounty of the wave potential offered by this amazing region, thanks in large part to this site. but somewhere we have to draw the line. OB, lindy, montara, jetty are all on the map, its the precious few remaining spots that require some work, some knowledge of conditions, some commitment to extrapolate the sweetness they offer. i feel strongly that the few that hike in to surf (NZ style) will double their solo surf potential. those that act quickly upon the ever changing conditions here in NorCal with the same vigor will do well also. but giving it away for free, getting the tounges wagging, will only serve to speed up the process of exponential surfer population growth at the places we are hopefully destined to enjoy in some sort of surf solitude in our lifetimes, crowd free.
My dad quit surfing Malibu in the 50's because the 12-20 guys out were enough to drive him south a few points. lucky him! now it takes more dedication and time to taste the the real deal sweetness of solo surf, you and your favorite board trying to find the the zone of a new spot, with no one to define the line-up, size, length of ride, rips, beasts in the water etc. Isn't that the core of surfing, an experience which touches your core? why create another cowells?
aloha S.
i almost did the same, but thankfully didn't. looks like tomorrow and saturday might be doable.
Sorry if this was posted already.
biting off more than you can chew
will that dead horse ever be beaten?
Posted by: lerm at February 19, 2004 10:12 AMThanks for the doing the drive for us E ;) You really know how to pick up the slack! Off to school, but hopefully fun ones will be had tomorrow! Going to SLO for Mardi Gras, yeaaaah.. Anyone have big plans for this weekend?
Posted by: Ian at February 19, 2004 10:22 AMOh yeah.. the wind patterns are showing light 0-5 kts. Can anyone back this? Is this true as of right now?
Posted by: Ian at February 19, 2004 10:24 AMHey, just wanted to say that yesterday's report, with the harmonics and Carpathians and all, has got to be one of my all time favorite surf reports. fabulous!
On Christian's post, two things: what did Christian even say that triggered a discussion on the does and dont's of protecting the secrets? I re-post: "sunday i went away to explore our california version of mundaka. i didn't surf it but the potencial is unreal!" So, if I understand your aloha, searoom, we should not say anything positive or stoked about surfing? What Christian said gets me stoked to explore, but near as I can tell the Mundaka comparison doesn't give any hint at all about its location. Besides, re-reading the comment by anonymous, "now is not the time and place", it's not even clear he was advocating secrecy, maybe he just was just lamenting there was no surf for him and so he didn't want to hear about some new tempation. As we all know all, the measure of unhappiness is that distance that separates what we have from what we want.
And, lerm, i do agree re the same old dead horse! so, let me now shut up...
Posted by: robme at February 19, 2004 10:27 AMGet over it.
Posted by: BVB at February 19, 2004 10:37 AMRobme, I am on you with this. I have my own conclusion now that was only spurred by the response to the name that was used. Had there been none, I would still be naive to the fact.
I am sticking to my quote:
Waves come and they go. Surf spots will do the same. Accept it and move on. Share the stoke with a friend, but maybe try picking your friends wisely.
Posted by: Kaiser at February 19, 2004 10:41 AMwinds.. winds.. I need to know about the winds !
Posted by: Ian at February 19, 2004 10:57 AMis this what you are seeing ian?
Posted by: robme at February 19, 2004 11:02 AMWinds at some local beaches updated: 10:43AM Thu, Feb 19
North Stinson 4 knots from 313.9 (NW)
Fort Point 1 knots from 291.8 (WNW)
Ocean Beach 1 knots from 308.7 (NW)
Half Moon Bay 5 knots from 311.4 (NW)
Does seem rather light...
what christian said about "mundaka" sparks the same kind of ideas as searoom saying.."the few that hike in to surf (NZ style) will double their solo surf potential". i think searooms just bummed hes never surfed Satans on a good day..
but ob took another life yesterday..so was that guy tied to the boat? i heard he might have been
Posted by: bagel at February 19, 2004 11:04 AMHi e, Searoom and all,
I did read the report last night and was quite surprised. Please, read my report again and tell me when I shitted on my own bed.
The only word I mentioned was “away”. As for “Mundaka”, that came from my own imagination, since most people compare
the wave in question to another world class spot, that I won’t mention here. To support my case, someone “anonymous” suggested
that I surfed a place (a summer spot) that is not even close to where I went. Good!
Anyway, I understand very well the necessity to be over protective nowadays of places such as the one I explored the other day.
Just for the record, I always searched for places alone until I met my soul mate, who surfs as well. How many sessions do you
think I could post here and I kept to myself? I might share the stoke sometimes, but not the details where I get it. Not even a hint.
My old man also used to say a proverb in Portuguese - “Who eats quietly eats twice”. So no worries, because I do follow that.
Don’t get me wrong though. I like to share some spots with friends of course, but I confess that I do select few places to go solo.
Speaking of Mardi Gras, I know a secret spot that I can actually share. The name is Rio and if you need more info on it send me an email.
The locals are not as gnarly as people think. Have fun in SLO, Ian
My sincere apologies again for creating any sort of discomfort,
Christian
PS: BVB is right. Let's get over it.
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 11:19 AMcool barrel sequence
personally i have no clue where christian was talking about and his post gave me no hint of its location, so i don't know what people are bitching about. the only ones getting mad are the ones who are already in the know, i suppose, which makes no sense to me...
Posted by: bbr at February 19, 2004 11:32 AMwhoops?
Posted by: bbr at February 19, 2004 11:34 AMballgame....
Ok, on to more important issues such as 3 people going overboard on a sailboat near Sloat yesterday. A) What were 3 people doing on a sailboat yesterday in 30-40 knot conditions? B) What were 3 people doing on a sailboat near cresting waves @ OB? C) Did they find the 3rd guy?
Crazy shit man. I saw some footage on the 10 p.m. news (right after The O.C., the best show on TV, hands down!) and I don't know how anyone would survive w/o wettie trying to get in out there. Crazy shit man, crazy...
Posted by: Kaiser at February 19, 2004 11:54 AMI AM A SPAMMER:
www.aspworldtour.com
Posted by: Kaiser at February 19, 2004 12:04 PM- Hansen Energy Pro, streaming video @ Pipe. Swell supposed to increase to 15-18 ft. by afternoon on the North Shore.
The surf lineup will be more crowded this year.
"President Bush is now backing off a forecast made by his own economic advisers that the economy will add 2.6 million jobs this year. Asked Wednesday about the estimate, Bush distanced himself from the figure. Bush told reporters: "I think the economy is growing, and I think it's going to get stronger." Since Bush has taken office, 2.3 million jobs have been eliminated. Meanwhile the Treasury Department announced Wednesday that the national debt had topped $7 trillion for the first time ever. "
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 12:10 PMand an indiot.
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 12:12 PMHow to survive? Easy, pretty similar to swimming in. If you've never swum in from DOH+ OB, it can be quite tiring, but not really threatening for a decent waterman.
As to what they were doing, winds were mild in the morning, and they probably throught it would be a fun sail. Then the winds came up. I would guess they were heading towards the Gate, and scared stiff. The one who drowned was leashed to the boat.
Posted by: blakestah at February 19, 2004 12:17 PMHey everybody, if a Brazilian (Christian) is giving away spots on the internet it is pay back for all the spots Americans have exploited.
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 12:19 PMAs one of the people that chimes in here with native status and sometimes entitlement issues asscotiated with the crush of everyone into the line-up. I would say Christian played cool. He didn't give anything away that numerous websites and any ho-dad can't find themselves off the web these days. Plus the guy rips and when you rip you learn things, doors open. good on ya Christian. Yes I agree with Searoom that local knowledge and newbie respect is often lacking in the line-up today. But that's where the line ends. Searoom you couldn't keep a lid on it and in my opinion created the ultimate faux paus of taking a co-worker to anything but a brand name spot. Who immediatly responded by telling 4 of his "closest bro's". I hope you got a promotion or a deal or something. Being a 2nd generation surfer you should have known better. F*ck I don't even tell co-workers who claim "surfer" with me in the office where I surf except a vaque "santa cruz county or san mateo county" etc.
The niceness crew are so kind to share thier stoke with us. It's greatly appreciated on a day I'm stuck due to responsibilities to simply read first hand about Mundaka, CA. It helps the day go by knowing the dream still exists and someone was ON IT!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at February 19, 2004 12:22 PMAnybody know of a Bay area shop that might glass boards, I'm tired of going to Santa Cruz. John at SF is bit too busy to mess with my boards.
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 12:48 PMI don't care about anything posted here recently. Spots are already crowded, but not so much that you can't get waves.
What bothers me are the "native" surfers who feel they should be able to get so many waves at "secret" spots. It's selfish, immature and greedy for surfers to push others aside so they can get 30 waves while other more respectful people get 2 waves. We should be happy with everyone getting waves. I know I am.
Posted by: respectful native at February 19, 2004 12:52 PMOkay my 2cents on the Mundaka issue, I know exactly what spot Christian referenced. The place has been referenced in a surfing mag...I have even found some pictures and further info doing a google search. Christian did not even mention it by name or give any destination clues.
Anyone that surfs there regularly gets kudos from me as that is unquestionably the sharkiest spot on the coast. Seriously if you want a clue where it is look at a map that documents white shark attacks on the CA Coast...find the region with the most documented attacks. The area will take care of itself
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 01:04 PMmexisurf - everyone I know goes to santa cruz. i've never shaped a board. is it hard to glass it yourself?
Posted by: robme at February 19, 2004 01:10 PMShark Shark Shark Left shark left left shark Mundaka shark Dillons shark.... Anybody know a glasser???
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 01:11 PMMore messy than hard, and expensive too.
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 01:13 PMYo, I heard California's version of deadman's is going off!
Posted by: at February 19, 2004 01:13 PMmexisurf.....try Norcal factory. They will glass but I have heard that they are slow. No idea on prices etc....nor is this a recomendation. Just that they do glass boards there and have all the vents etc. It's a real factory and not a backyard hack shop. Only 8 miles south of Sloat but keep it under wraps......
Posted by: tom at February 19, 2004 01:25 PMand where is your house in CR? I'll be down there in mid May and can kick the tires for you.
Posted by: tom at February 19, 2004 01:26 PMThanx tom I'll try them, I called there once and asked but they told me to go to Santa Cruz, but you are not the first to mention them. I'd love to say we bought a pad in Povones or some other exotic locale but we bought one near Jaco, a safe investment.
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 01:39 PMIt used to be that the glasser at ASD would do "off the street" shaper boards, but he got too many lumpy shaped boards and got really pissed. Of course he is going to screw up the glass job if you don't know how to shape properly.
Anyway, so now I do not think he is too psyched to take boards from outsiders. If you have one of his shapers check it over first he may take the bait.
For pricing, I'd expect $100 at least, but I wouldn't pay over $150.
It is not that hard to glass it yourself, there is a good video called something like Glassing 101, John Schultze at SF Surfshop is always happy to give people pointers to get them started. Also, Bill Hickey is around now, and he knows everything, and is also willing to help people get going.
But I think it is a little much to expect reasonable treatment from a pro glassing shop if you are a hobbyist shaper. Pro glassing shops glass for people that do hundreds a year, and have access to all the appropriate equipment. They may just flip you off, glassers hate glassing poorly shaped boards. They end up taking the lumps off with a planer, and grinding a lot, and it takes them twice as long, and that is not their job anyway.
Posted by: blakestah at February 19, 2004 01:59 PMgood for you mexisurf. i will be in that area for a few sessions. in addition to the warm hollows of hermosa there is absolute perfection just north of jaco in the fishing village named after an expensive tequila.
since you will be sitting on it you will score since those two reefs don't break everyday.
if you need details lemme know
Posted by: tom at February 19, 2004 02:12 PMsurfed lindy today,
around 11am and as crappy as it looked it surfed not so aweful.
A little secret I have noticed about lindy is that on onshore days the dreaded closeout isnt so often. the fucked up conditions create shoulders. many times I will see perfect glassy tubes at lindy do nothing but closeout. Making grit my teeth and wish for a pointbreak.
over and out
py
Posted by: phil young at February 19, 2004 03:00 PMBlakestah, I understand what you are saying about taking the lumps out. Most glassers in SC charge just over 150.00 because of the lumps and chunks. However, I do expect reasonable treatment everywhere I go. I shape my own boards because I'm a big guy so I like to shape shortboards with volume that most shapers can't seem to handle. I would glass my boards, but it's messy and illegal, osha would have a field day. I've got both shaping 101 and glassing 101, good stuff.
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 03:01 PMTom, please email me...P
Posted by: mexisurf at February 19, 2004 03:03 PMtomorrow.. i feel waves.. tomorrow.. waves..
Posted by: e at February 19, 2004 03:19 PMdrop down.. turn off the bottom.. glide along some waves.. tomorrow.. olas.. ombak.. friday morning weekend opening celebratory waves.. conjuring.. sending the energy out. please come to us waves.. we love thee..
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