E's Surf Report: solid swell. good winds.

For anyone who enjoys dropping serious, no-joke bombs at OB... today is your day. The paddle out looked makeable and the outside was lining up nicely. Intense, double-overhead+ A-frames gathered on themselves and hurled thick, top-to-bottom slabs toward shore. The waves would then taper and peel perfectly in both directions.. most of the time. The wind blew a mellow offshore and the sun cast scintillating prisms of light onto the surface. If everything worked out and you somehow made it outside unscathed and then paddled your gun into one of those beasts and then careened down the line at Mach-8... you'd probably have a huge, shit-eating grin on your face for about a week. However! If you drifted into the receiving end of one of those bad-boys you'd be hurting bad. Like.. emergency room bad. I shudder to think about it. Beautiful and scary at the same time out there. it's like, "Every rose has it's thorn... every cowboy, sings a sad sad song." Not for the faint of heart or short of board.

Sooo.. Robme and i of course took our little kiddie boards and shrimpy little eunuch balls (actually, to robme's credit he wanted to paddle out at sloat) and found some other waves. While mellower than OB we succeeded in getting our asses whoomped and feeling the brunt of the groundswell energy. I managed a few racy, ledgy drops and a few turns off-the-top but also paid dearly for flirting with boxy closeouts. I got sucked over the falls on a fairly sizeable chunk of angry water and when i stopped falling about 10 seconds later the whole world crashed down on my chest and did it's best to try to split my body in half. I got the wind knocked out of me but had the presence of mind to just relax and regain my composure as the rest of the set pummelled me toward shore. I guess everybody in the lineup witnessed the wipeout because when i paddled back out a few people were like, "that was gnarly" and "I was worried about you dude." One guy also said, "i don't envy you at all." Soo.. that was kinda fun. It was real raw and kinda out-of control out there, with intimidating slabby sets rolling through every few minutes which would box up like mini teahupoo and just annihilate anything in their path. This one charger took off on a few of those and just barely barely barely held on and made some impressive drops. A big sack of balls on that guy. Cheers bruddah! It felt good to be in the midst of some oceanic energy, even if conditions didn't line up perfect for us. I'm sure that many many spots up and down the california coast were on fire this morning. The swell is nice and solid and the winds are perfect. If it wasn't for the mid-day hightide i'd advice everyone to take off work and hit the Cruz.. i guess we might get rain tomorrow and then for the rest of the week? hmm..

couple of bruce's photos from saturday morning at sloat.. I was out and conditions were pretty fun. The shorepound was massive, as pictured at bottom.. it took some courage and timing to break through.
www.surfhumor.com

it's gnarly in haiti right now, armed rebellion, fighting in the streets. We're lucky to be here.

the lip on that last photo sends a message...

Posted by: phil young at February 23, 2004 10:43 AM

HAHA,that last photo is crazy! I wonder if he made it through? Anyway SLO was insane. Saturday night the police were shooting bean bags at people to make them leave. If anyone wants something to read go to cnn.com and type in "san luis obispo" and look for mardi gras. Insane!

Posted by: Ian at February 23, 2004 10:50 AM

got a couple okay waves saturday afternoon. current was intense though, paddled out at the chalet and the next thing i knew i was at kelly's. my last wave was memorable though, it just kept reforming all the way from the outside to the shorebreak, like 4 different sections before a bone crunching shorebreak closeout.

sunday i got up too late and everywhere was blown except closed out lindy. barred. went to fp in the evening and it was ridiculously crowded and small. over it. i figured it'd be windy this morning... frick!
death or glory

Posted by: bbr at February 23, 2004 11:07 AM

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Posted by: jdz at February 23, 2004 11:12 AM

OB: sunny, calm, and gorgeous at the beach. Ditto what e said. Doable paddle [ for you rippers ], despite rising tide there are bombs out the back, but size hard to tell and everything suspect since no-one is out. Hm. Always wonder when that's the case.Outside waves and overall conditions shifty on a scale of 9 out of 10, offering teasey looking shoulders as well as closeouts. Some rampy, mushy waves too but they're much more sporadic. Middle inside very peaky, doing that funny thing where it either mushes or closes out or is just whitewater and suddenly a 4 foot wide slab of water rises up in the middle of the wave and slaps down an invisible surfer [ as if OB needs the practice ] Far inside whitewater looks thick enough from here and maybe not too crossed up for goofy boogie boarding or pop-up practice for recovering injured or too-big-on-the-outside folks like me. Ambushin' capricious wicked mackin' waves as usual, today they're inside as well as outside.

BONUS: super duper accurate weather report! Not to usurp blakestah, but I'm leaving town midday Weds, back Mar 10th. Starting midday Weds I guarrantee 7 days of shoulder-2 foot OH semi glass, sun, plus bonus DOH at usual spots for at least 3 out of those 7 times. Interspersed with single days of wind and rain to recover exhausted paddle muscles. Spring conditions to begin Mar 11.

Sorry long post.. vicariously stoked for everyone...I'll be hitting the water regularly AT LAST starting in Mar, so cheers and see you out there, or not, most of my time is spent underwater! :)

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I have now arrived.

I think that second shot is me. Hard to tell, but since the rider looks fat and the nose is not pointy, I will say it is me.

Caught a ton on Saturday as the tide killed the crowd and dulled the peaks a bit. Sunday I waxed up my gun and then changed my mind and paddled out the 7'6" Bonzer. As soon as I got outside, I was wishing for my gun. I made it down only one, two more I got axed at the bottom cause I couldn't generate enough speed.

Surfed Sloat this AM with Kdalle, and the Doof. Learned from yesterday and paddled out the 8'10". I still didn't have the biggest stick as Kdalle's is 9'8".

As I dressed I saw some rippers killing it. There is a guy who rides a board with a diagonal red band accross the deck. He can really surf. Inspired me to try to take off deeper next session.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 23, 2004 11:34 AM

OB did I mention increasing mush? It's taking over. fyi

Posted by: s.s.sharkbait at February 23, 2004 11:38 AM

good on ya friend #1.. did you catch any of those bombs this morning?

christian.. i heard that you surfed a crowded but nicely shaped spot yesterday evening.. any good rides?

Posted by: e at February 23, 2004 11:43 AM

Well, I was there when E started to go on huge beast this morning, only to get pitched. Frickin' monster w/ about 25 yards of roof he was trying to line up. No more can E minimize his own sackage (or bust Kaiser or me for going on gnarly improbables.) He popped up, but then his board tombstoned, and he disappeared in the soup only to re-appear wayyyyy on the inside. Sick.

Tom, Christian, how was your evening surf at XXXX?

Posted by: robme at February 23, 2004 11:58 AM

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Here is a sick longskate video yall might enjoy.
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Traut

Posted by: Traut at February 23, 2004 01:15 PM

Did anyone else venture down to SC this weekend? I made the dawn patrol yesterday and today and Indicators was pretty much longboard heaven (especially yesterday). Caught a wave from there all the way to the shorebreak at Cowell's, walling up fast all the way around the corner and I milked it from there. Jumped off the back of the shorebreak closeout elated, then watched in horror as my leash broke and sent my 2 week old stick into the rocks at the base of the cliff next to the hotel. Swam after it cursing loudly but it somehow escaped without a scratch.

Awesome weekend for surf what with fun lindy on Friday and dp at Sloat on Sat.

Posted by: Hrothbart at February 23, 2004 01:17 PM

Caught a few good ones. Early in the session I was catching waves right and left while the other folks out were just paddling around watching. Then I passed the baton to kdalle, as I had a major dry spell. It was very shifty, so hard to be in just the right spot.

Very nice having the big board as the first few it seemed like I had to ride over a hump before the wave would jack. Doof was on his 7'6" so he was not catching much.

Where was your crew out at anyhow? Not Lindy, surely.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 23, 2004 01:19 PM

Friend #1-That was my 10 footer this morning. 22 lbs of fun! Is this becoming some sort of joke: )?

Gritted my teeth Sunday I had Dad duty all day. As #1 said, beautiful conditions this morning. Many of the waves were shifty, sectiony and ledgy on takeoff. Took a while to get in sync but by the end left satisfied with some sizeable, racing walls. Beuatiful atmospherics too as the Sun popped in and out all morning making the water seem especially green.

Posted by: kdalle at February 23, 2004 01:29 PM

Lindy yesterday was in classic form. Break #1 was 100% closeouts. Break #2 was nearly as bad. Then there was break #3. Serving up grade C- waves with a massive quantity of people fighting for what appeared to be small barely rideable swell. I naturally tried to dodge the crowds and paddled out for break #2 and joined the lineup of 3 or so people. While the waves were by no means good, I realized it was a blast to be out there. I like waves, not matter how bad they are. Happy to take whatever comes my way. I was able to jump up on several in short order while most everyone was waiting for perfection with no such luck. Just goes to show how much fun it can be out there if you take what comes your way when it comes your way. A wave slut if you will...

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Posted by: at February 23, 2004 01:51 PM

kdalle,

Seemed like you got stuck between bars on the paddle-out. I was very lucky with nearly a dry-hood. Doof got stuck in a suck-up for a while on his go-out as well.

Posted by: Friend #1 at February 23, 2004 02:00 PM

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Posted by: e at February 23, 2004 04:25 PM

Hola amigos. I am working on a power point presentation for work and want to sneak in a gratuitous surfing photo or two. I would especially like to use a pic with an overhead view of a big swell wrapping around Fort Point. The shot on wannasurf is almost perfect -- frame is great, just needs a bigger swell, and someone up & riding.

Can anyone point me toward some Ft Pt pics?

email me offline if you'd prefer: pnmcs@comcast.net

Thanks!

Posted by: loon at February 23, 2004 04:51 PM

Loon, check out surfline as there are a few on there that are pretty dope.

Got Lindy @ lunch before the winds killed it today. Kinda fun but mostly closing out (as par) with the occasional soft shoulder.

This weekend: Solid! Sat. morning @ Slizz was fun but the current was stupid. Sat. afternoon, same spot, top-to-bottom as the waves were moving much faster than in the morning. Fucking OB! Just happy to get back to land. Scared the shit out of me.

E, nice work on the drop! Would have loved to see that one.

Posted by: Kaiser at February 23, 2004 05:34 PM

E-

You can do days like today!!! Get yourself a 7'6 or bigger and get on it. Common 7ft @ 15 sec is pretty damn clean and attainable. I hate working and missing a morning like today. I bet the apes were howling @ the ZOO. Oh well I hope folks had fun. Blaketah report looks sketchy for the morning. Any insight to how long the storm will hold back? I may dawn if the Blakestah gives it the OK.

peace
pez

Posted by: pez at February 23, 2004 05:35 PM

pez, I am going to give it a gander. One way, or another, there will be someplace to surf in the morning. Wednesday morning, too.

Posted by: blakestah at February 23, 2004 07:15 PM

Thats great. I'll give it a gander as well, if I can wake my wittle head in the mornin, I'm still jonesn from only single seshing sat and sun. Fun stuff, bet today was similar. I get so hyped hearing the animals and surfing OH OB. Thanks Blakestah you sooo cool. Smoother than snoopdog as huggybear

peace

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