stormy mayhem
Winds, rain and atmospheric violence pummel our unnassuming coastal hamlet this morning. Supposedly there were some rideable waves somewhere.. but.. the deep warm womb under the covers also provided a nice barrel opportunity of the cozy variety.
Flash flooding and torrential downpours point toward polluted lineups these next few days. So if you decide to surf remember to plug up bodily orifi while duck-diving or wiping out. Papa buoy is 21ft 14sec. SF buoy is 11ft 13sec. Winds are coming in gusts of over 25knots out of the SSW. Winds on Mt Diablo are approaching 40 and 50 knots. fuck.
The slate gray sky and damp, moody rain catalyzed a somber, downcast disposition in my mind this morning. Staring out the N-Judah window, watching water rush along the metal tracks, I felt a lump of ennui and melancholy gestating in my gut. I thought about the brevity of life and the absence of any divine moral dictates to suggest the just and right path. I felt the openness and final nihilism of existence and it made me momentarily shrink back and hide deep within myself. Positive self definition can evaporate like the puddles. Its component parts can re-manifest into introverted, inhibited walls and barriers between the self and society. The ephemeral nature of pure happiness laughs while it fleets away, prancing and skipping into the distance with new revelers on its arm. The vacuum left by its departure quickly fills with humbling, sobering perspective. You are but one of many. One particular genetic combination amongst billions of near-identical copies. Each is his/her own universe. Each feels euphoric highs and painful lows. Each creates his/her own moral compass. I tried to look into the eyes of people on the N-judah and imagine the infinity of their own experiences, their own emotions and desires and drives. I felt momentarily silly for previously insulating my thoughts into my own head, my own being. I was one of many doing this same thing. Projecting my thoughts on to my own person, my own psyche, pulls, whims, moods. I thought about all the thoughts that must be rushing through all the heads of the people traveling downtown with me. What was that old Cantonese lady thinking over there? Maybe her husband was sick. maybe her beautiful grand-daughter just got married and she's remembering the flowers in her grand-daughter's hair during the wedding ceremony, remembering the look of overwhelmed, exhausted elation on her granddaughter's face as she embarked on a new phase in her life. A new beginning. A new life altogether. And the old lady maybe thought back to her own wedding. Back in the 40s in the back neighborhoods of Kowloon. Maybe she gets a little excited as she recollects, for the hundreth time, that wedding night. The first time she embraced her man. All those pent up bodily urges, all the psychological machinery suddenly allowed expression on that one night. She remembers being transformed into a leopard on that night. The remembers the power and energy of the leopard spirit well up in her person. Her house now a jungle, she remembers prowling and stalking her husband then pouncing and devouring. The old Cantonese lady on the N-judah maybe got a little hot and bothered standing there amongst the damp, depressed, sad faces this morning. Living her life. remembering her moments. dreaming her dreams. Every one of us an infinity of depth, power and potential. Every one of us a spark off the cosmic chain of the universe. Existing for no apparent reason. We're just here. floating and cavorting and spinning and drifting. Getting caught up in our little worlds. The existence of the grand questions themselves a simple manifestation of the evolution of human thought. Why are we here? Where did we come from? Where are we going? What's the purpose? By simply posing these questions we begin to answer them. or do we?
you need to start driving to work my friend. or biking, especially on no surf days.
anyway some insane pictures have been posted of ocean beach by paull ferraris on his site.
he got a few of christian getting barrelled after somehow sticking an extremely late drop.
see 'em here or post 'em as i still don't know how...
http://www.paulferraris.com/personal/Feb2004.html
Posted by: tom at February 25, 2004 10:41 AME... deep thoughts. Somber overcast day here on Oahu also. My office is in Chinatown and I often glimpse into the eyes of our elders in this neighborhood to see their life, their stories. Here I was going to propose a surfboard bank network of boards deposited around the world for travellers.. maybe another day. Happy day to the niceness tribe. Much aloha.
Posted by: bagus at February 25, 2004 10:43 AMChristian. Barreled.
Christian sequence
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 10:50 AMMy best friend has been traveling alone for the past 7 months. She has been in India for a month, looking about herself, writing, attending weddings in golden silk sarees, taking an intensive yoga class. Our emails have been almost daily, often more, but when she didn't write to me or respond to a number of letters for four days I told myself not to be silly, it's probably best not to get too used to such high volumes of correspondence anyway. Took a few deep breaths, went about my business. Got a call from her last night. she sounded spent. She'd been in a hospital for three days fighting malaria....
Posted by: ben at February 25, 2004 10:52 AMe, my brain has been rife with questions I can't quite grasp as well. I think I've moved through to the point where I'm stoked that one day she will be the little old lady on the bus, recalling moments of a life lived so well and adventurously, the hint of a wry smile pulling at the beautiful corners of her mouth.
I'm shaken with gratitude that she's ok. It is a good day for heavy and thought provoking news.
Christian, so nice!
Posted by: ben at February 25, 2004 10:53 AMnice drop Christian. also that top barrel shot is equally sick!
e, no worries, one day you'll be that old cantontese lady on the train thinking about that barrel you got earlier in the morning. but it might be a hover train.
no surfing for like 11 days..holy passion of the christ
Posted by: bagel at February 25, 2004 11:18 AM
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 11:24 AMYo, Last pic isn't Christian, I ran out of film after Christian pulled that drop. It's a shot from a long seq of Mark Purcel from Pacifica. Enjoy P
Posted by: mexisurf at February 25, 2004 11:39 AMe your muni sequence made me think of a scene in a wim wenders movie called "wings of desire" where this angel is walking along a subway car and he can "hear" all the thoughts of the people sitting on the train. it's a bizarre & beautiful meditation...if you haven't seen this movie i highly recommend it, one of my faves...
Posted by: paul b at February 25, 2004 11:40 AMe-really cool post today. i dug it especially the transformation of the old cantonese woman into the leopard. thanks
oh and a ps-that dwayne post yesterday was a hoax. not sure who did it, i am trying to find out. dwayne is not really computer literate. i do give him updates if there is something posted about him and he's stoked on it. he's a cool dude at heart. and not sure who posted he has not seen him around the pile lately, but he's been on it every day the last few weeks. peace and niceness all
Posted by: cruzer at February 25, 2004 11:49 AMmexisurf. never knew that you were PF... one and the same.
killah photos, as always!
paul B. I saw that film years ago. I remember it being mystical and strange. thanks for the rec.
ben. that's heavy man. malaria is no joke. but it sounds like she's out of the thick of it and on the road to recovery. warm thoughts to her.
Christian. it's good to see you in the barrel. it's like your second home these days.
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 11:51 AMEthan, I really dig your writing. But it's kind of a pain to try to read it on my 17" monitor because I have to use the arrow bar at the bottom to go back and forth for every line. I'm assuming there's nothing I can do at this end and I imagine there are other avid readers of yours with the same problem, so would you be so kind as to format your text to fit within a 17 in screen?
Thank you for your insightful, soulful and vibrant pieces. And your political observations, too.
Posted by: peej at February 25, 2004 11:55 AMOB: The eye of the storm passed over the Great Highway approx 8:37 this am, but the following wall is proving to be just as exciting. No need to paddle out, just stand in my living room and get soaked. OB is not just confined to the ocean floor but has risen up into the sky and morphed into flying, solid walls of water. At one point it rained so hard the view out the windows literally appeared like the whole house was underwater. Saw nothing but swirling agua. Stuffing rags and old towels about in a futile attempt to stem the water pooling into the front rooms. Tremendous gusts of wind. Kept up most of the night due to cacophonious weather riot. Should have worn wetsuit and body armor to walk the dog around the block. Kind of bummed I'll be missing the huge waves we're supposed to get later. Nothing out but 1 jogger, flying garbage cans, and maybe a hurricane aircraft. Weeeee! Fun out in the midst of mother fury.
Christian : nice shots! I am tremendously stoked just from those photos :)
e - you should write novels!
Posted by: crazy bad-ass lip-crunching sinus-imploding body-smackin soul vixen surfer. at February 25, 2004 12:08 PMpeej.. first off thanks for the stoke. secondly, sorry about the formatting issued. Horizontal scrolling totally sucks! usually the text will format correctly.. but i included a really wide photo (bruce's shorepound photo) the other day so everything is stretched wide on the homepage. If you click on the time link next to the comments link you'll go to a new page where the text of the post will be condensced to your screen size regardless of the width of the pics.
FYI for everyone - i think it's easier to click on the time link to read comments rather than the "comments" link. it opens up in it's own page instead of a popup.
peej - i'll keep you small-moniter'ed peeps in mind in the future.
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 12:09 PMI have a question/offer to throw out to the group:
I really dont have very many surfing buddies that i am still close with so i end up at OB 99.9& of the time solo....and i do all of my travel solo. which i fine, frankly OB is a solo kind of place. So here is my point----
i am looking into surf travel to the south pacific, i have one buddy who does a Mentawai charter every year at around $5K but thats a bit more than i would like to spend, however there are several other land based options that are around $3k-$4k, so my problem is that everything is minimum 2 persons. are there any peeps here who a) would like to make that trip (around 10-14day) b) who can afford $3k.
i dont know if email has been reactivate on the board or not. let me know what the general opinions of you guys are regarding a trip of that nature. (david@denrae.com)
Posted by: dsx at February 25, 2004 12:32 PMDSX, head to Bali, get a boat, stay a month, spend $3000, live in luxury.
Surf was possible, just not advisable this a.m.
Posted by: Kaiser at February 25, 2004 12:38 PMCalifornia Buoy is now at 30 ft. @ 17 seconds.
Thursday there's a 5.42 ft. high at 02:27.
Sleeping in one's car in the parking lot might not be a good call. Wonder how much asphalt will be recycled by the weekend?
Posted by: Bruce at February 25, 2004 12:43 PMgosh so much good stuff to read, I'm trying to sneak in a stealth reading here at work, but I haven't gotten through a single post yet. I just did a quick trip to the bxxxxx instead of going to lunch, not huge like I thought it would be. One person out, a boogy-boarder, I'm sure you'd recognize him -- shaved head, mega-built. I thought I saw Tom chatting in the lot.
I was hoping to see those long ones that face up all the way to the txwxr. I've only seen that a couple of times, and it's always such a TRIP. To my surprise, even considering the tide, it doesn't seem like that much energy is making it into the gate. The potato patch looks impressive. Is the angle blocked by pt reyes, you think? From the looks of SE Papa, it looks the brunt will get here tomorrow, at least from the little calculation that pwizardry suggests. Okay, now back to reading the good stuff!
Posted by: robme at February 25, 2004 01:01 PMhopefully the sloat lot falls into the ocean and sets up a perfect little summer peak.
Posted by: bagel at February 25, 2004 01:44 PMbagel, I'll second that emotion. I always get some weird enjoyment out of la mar gnawing at our concrete edges.
Posted by: ben at February 25, 2004 01:58 PMFull juice by 10 PM tonite.
Best combo of tide and swell at 2:30 AM. If sloat is gonna fall, it will fall then.
But I doubt it, because you really need a good storm surge, too. And, winds are not going to be hard onshore until late morning Thursday.
Posted by: blakestah at February 25, 2004 02:07 PMSW or NW hard onshores tomorrow morning?
Posted by: question... at February 25, 2004 02:19 PMCrazy, aka Shark, I actually laughed outloud at your weather report this morning. Storm drain was clogged on my roof this morning. Had the neighbor not notice, my living room would be about as deep as yours.
Blakestah, is the big pile of fetch off our coast going to send swell to New Zealand or Hawaii breaks or that completely backwards of the wind?
Posted by: jardinee at February 25, 2004 02:25 PMHawaii is definitely expecting N swell. But New Zealand probably not.
You gotta remember that 30 foot seas are not that impressive, in as far as winter storm swells go. The biggies generate 50 and 60 foot seas. Any solid shot that comes in from over 1500 miles out was 40 ft plus.
This storm is only medium-sized, but we rarely see such large storms so close to our coastline.
Still a little uncertain about what winds will do in the morning...by later due west onshores are expected. Could be earlier, hard to say.
Posted by: blakestah at February 25, 2004 02:50 PMSo I went for a run along the beach this morning... well, it was more like a swim. At one point it got really dark and scary looking and then the rain just unloaded. I mean serious I-might-drown-standing-on-dry-ground rain. Not a soul around as my witness. Soo impressive. That's why we are here.
Other code-orange friends are here to keep us safe from the likes of e as captured by PF.
Posted by: dano at February 25, 2004 02:56 PMdsx...
Posted by: been there at February 25, 2004 02:59 PMbefore you consider costs or traveling companions, you should consider the waves themselves. The mentawais (as well as most other land-based indo areas) have very demanding surf. If you're dialed in with surfing heavy barrels over shallow reef, you'll love it there. But I've seen a lot of guys go to indo, spend their big chunk, and also spend most of the two weeks watching from the boat after getting cut up the first session. Just be forewarned -- none of those spots are as easy as they look in magazines.
50-60ft seas... I salivate with both fear and curosity to understand just how giant that is first hand...
Posted by: jardinee at February 25, 2004 03:08 PMbeen there:
thanks for the info. my friend has been there 5 years straight and really loves it. i have surfed some pretty heavy waves in Hawaii and certainly know what you mean. DOH O.B. isnt quite the same at DOH INdo, but at least the paddle out isnt too bad...unless you get stuck on the reef, ouch!
Posted by: dsx at February 25, 2004 03:21 PMThere has been a change in the status of one or more of the beach
monitoring points in:
Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 03:28 PMFollow the link below to see Earth 911's detailed map indicating
current
status:
http://www.earth911.org/WaterQuality/default.asp?beach_id=49&cluster=3
i finally had a little respite from the barrage that is werk these days. power post, e. one of my fav ever.
ahhh...the fleeting existence that is ours. your post and the tale of ben's friend show this to be true. it weighs heavy at times. the need to maximize. the realization that precious moments are passing that will never be seen again. the realization that change is needed, but the uncertainty of what to do next. yet the joy of those moments we seize in which we really live. the thought that maybe those moments are what life is really about anyway. the questioning of the change that had seemed so necessary. back...and forth.
hmmm....i think i need to get out and go watch the storm for a bit. ; )
good luck with the water-mopping soul vixen s.s. and peace all.
Posted by: ck at February 25, 2004 03:29 PMso cal this morning
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 03:30 PMthanks ck.
nice words yourself.
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 03:34 PMcrazy vixen is sharkbait? Ah, figures--s.s. I always love your surf report posts, earlier I wanted to say that your crazy-vixen post was my favorite yet but felt that wasn't quite fair to s.s. :). Thanks for the stupendous visuals.
ck, I hope you enjoy the storm watch. I miss the ability to ditch work or class and head out into whatever ma nature was dishing up back in Goleta, glad to know you'll be out looking and admiring.
e--you do such a great thing for us all with this site, grazie mille!
Posted by: ben at February 25, 2004 03:46 PMBen, I was thinking the same thing. It's somehow really cool to see Muther Nature kick butt and take names. Kinda' puts things in perspective, doesn't it?
Blakestah dampened my expectations, but IF the lot goes, can we call it a "Sloat Float?" Or instead of Flotsam, would it be called Sloatsam?
Posted by: at February 25, 2004 03:48 PMlike bagel said. it'd be cool if Sloatsam turned into a nice little grinding artificial reef.
hmmmm...
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 03:59 PMYou're very welcome for the compliments, folks!
Out of town for a bit, then at last rebuilding those underused arm muscles. May your paddle outs be brief and painless and the waves plentiful and forgiving. Enjoy!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at February 25, 2004 04:27 PMsailboat-capsizes story in sfgate
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 04:49 PMhttp://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2004/02/20/BAG6654OUS1.DTL
the burly (burle) brazzo at cortez (www.tonycanadas.com)
Posted by: e at February 25, 2004 04:50 PMthis parson's shot is sick
Posted by: at February 25, 2004 04:51 PMsloatsom summer 2004.
Posted by: bagel at February 25, 2004 04:51 PMWow... that's too bad about the boat going down at OB. Never sailed before, but sure seems like the navigational charts of the area would make it clear not to cut it too close to the coast south of the Gate. Yeah, Paul's photos rock. I love that one of "Big Wednesday."
Posted by: dano at February 25, 2004 04:57 PMOh, forgot one thing... from the NWS: "RAINFALL TOTALS EXCEEDED 10 INCHES AT AN AUTOMATED GAGE IN THE SANTA LUCIA MOUNTAINS IN SOUTHERN MONTEREY COUNTY...WITH THE GREATEST WIND SPEED REPORTED AT THE SUMMIT OF MT DIABLO WHERE THE WIND GUSTED AT OR ABOVE 100 MPH FOR SEVERAL HOURS!!"
Posted by: dano at February 25, 2004 04:59 PMI can't resist... sounds like it is going to be a pretty good show tomorrow morning. Guess it's a good think I didn't buy that multi-million dollar house overlooking the Pacific.
HIGH SURF ADVISORY
A VERY POWERFUL PACIFIC STORM HAS GENERATED WHAT WILL LIKELY BE THE LARGEST WAVES RECORDED SO FAR THIS WINTER ALONG THE NORTHERN AND CENTRAL CALIFORNIA COAST...AND PERHAPS THE LARGEST IN THE LAST 10 YEARS.
COMBINED SEAS WILL BUILD TO 25 FEET ALONG THE NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST BY MIDNIGHT TONIGHT...AND ALONG THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA COAST EARLY THURSDAY MORNING. SEAS WILL THEN INCREASE FURTHER TO AS HIGH AS 30 TO 35 FEET BY SUNRISE THURSDAY. IN ADDITION TO WAVE SETS IN THIS RANGE...THERE IS ALSO THE POSSIBILITY OF A FEW EVEN LARGER WAVES OCCURRING FROM TIME TO TIME...PERHAPS UP TO 40 FEET.
Posted by: dano at February 25, 2004 05:16 PMi'm late...too much work...
Love those pics of Christian.
dsx, I ran into the same problem you did. Me and a buddy actually booked on a boat...but the rest of the spots were not booked (by several weeks ago) so we dicided to re-book in Namotu. My advice...call the Waterways guys and do the outer atoll Maldive trip. It is guaranteed to go with no minimum booking, and sounds unreal.
good luck
Posted by: jdz at February 25, 2004 07:44 PMMav's Contest is on. . . watch out for low flying helicopters.
Posted by: Bruce at February 26, 2004 07:26 AMHow big is the swell? I hear that a few guys paddled out at the Marina. Swell was wrapping all the way down from Fort point this morning.
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