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rain, SE offshores, smaller swell

Did the drive in the rain this morning. 7.5ft 6seconds on the SF buoy looking a bit bigger than that at the beach. The sea-surface looked finely shellacked by the offshores. Nobody out at Sloat. Thick, unruly shorepound looked to be all that was on offer, with the exception of an inconsistent, mushy outside wave every once in a while. otherwise pretty flat. (did i just say that?.. we haven't even approached the "f" word in months and months) Surfable. Soo.. I drove south, more out of habit that a determined desire to surf. The P-town spots were actually looking mellow and fun. Lots of closeouts but also quite a few rideable sections scattered about the otherwise lake-like lineups. A few peaks near the north-center of Lindy were showing some rideability. A handful of takers were out there. I watched a logger schnag a roping left at the far far north corner of the beach before he got closed out on. The winds were blowing directly offshore down there.. but are supposed to switch around to the NW by day's end.. soo.. you might want to get down there sooner than later.

this weekend was chock-full o' surf for me. After stormy, gigantic and pollution-riddled conditions last week i was itching for some waves. Woke up on saturday and started leisurely driving south, figuring i'd stop wherever i found waves. Well.. i drove all the way down to the Lane but then doubled-back a few miles and surfed Natty Bridges with only a few others for about 2 hours. Jake used to regall me with impassioned tales of this wave, which i've never surfed, so i decided to give it a go even though the swell was smallish and inconsistent. You could see even from the lot that the wave was reeling, barrelling and breaking in extremely shallow water. After a few bigger, wide, mushy corners that i was randomly in position for.. a few of the chargers left the lineup and i moved over to the inside peak. The wave at Natties during my session required an extremely quick takeoff, made a bit more hair-raising by the site of the dark-mass of reef nearly sticking out of the water a few feet from the takeoff spot. I was amping so hard and psyching myself up enough that i just charged through my first couple waves and quickly got past the intimidation factor. I took off pretty deep on this medium-sized (head-high) wave and just kind-of crouched and tucked into the pocket as the barrel threw over.. I was actually getting barrelled for the first legit time in almost a year.. it felt like i was skimming over the reef in about a foot of water. I had a few moments of the barrel-vision before getting schlocked by the lip and plastered onto the reef which actually WAS about a foot below me. Luckily i anticipated the impact and laid out flat and bounced rather softly on the flat reef. I snuck into another barrel on a bigger wave after a tricky drop.. but again got smacked down and thrown into the reef. I could have made it through if i took a slightly higher line but i didn't have 100% balance off the drop and hence got worked.. but.. the view was nice..

soo. that was a good session on a tricky, high-performance wave. thanks to Jake for the inspiration.

then on the way back north i caught another right point going real nice. The wind whipped hard side-shore but there were tons of head-high walls reeling along. I had the mojo flowin' in the lineup and that resulted in 8 or 9 long, multi-sectioned rides... along with one gruesome lip-munching wipeout in the pit, right in front of the frothing pack of dudes who were probably hoping that i'd wipe out so they could take off. My last wave lined up super nice and i was able to set up and carve through three long, pre-planned top-turn/cutbacks. Just like.. pump pump.. see the section.. bottom turn.. then caaaarrrvvvee.. back into the white-water.. then regroup.. pump and work the wave for speed.. pump.. pump.. then bottom-turn.. then caaarrrvee.. back into the white-water.. etc.. really fun.. and the drive home felt dope after that long ride..

soo.. then on Sunday the "great bandini" (brian musial) invited me up to Bodega Bay to surf with Dale on his final 10,470th session in a row! (28.5 years). They picked me up at 6am and we cruised up there.. I ended up imbibing in some inebriants on the drive up without realizing it! which setup an extremely grooovy session at an offshore-licked Doran beach. Multiple camera crews and a small entourage of fans/groupies/well-wishers surrounded Daily Dale Wavestar as he made his way to the lineup for this self-appointed final day of his guiness book of world records streak. He caught some good ones on his big red stick and then was back on the beach for interviews and kisses and such. Meanwhile our little crew was out there in the fun but closeouty, glassy beach break. Scripps research institue scientist Norman could be seen pulling into closeout barrel after closeout barrel. His style cultivated by countless sessions throughout his hometown San Diego reefs... real smooth and committed. Niceness regular Bird could also be seen taking off on any nasty looking wave that came his way. Bandini also stylistically sleuthed into many a wave.. a chill dude with a chill surf approach and good steez. He let me borrow his authentic Skip Frye fish for a few waves and i was blown away. The board is fucking beautiful and surfs like a dream! The paddling speed and buoyancy made my shortboard feel like it was constantly sinking and sluggish in comparison.. And once on the face of a wave that little fish fucking rocketed along at break-neck speeds. A truly valid and overlooked design, in my opinion. The modern "thruster" fishes don't do this classic design justice. This thing had these two wooden, glassed-on fins and a huge, wide swallow tale. It was also thick and pug-nosed.. but.. it was so responsive and quick and wave-magneted. Damn.. i want want.. but i guess i should step in line!

anyhoo.. then we partied with the Valley-Ford locals and dale's friends and surfermag bb reggies (Mr. Doof, seth, iceman, tfad, stinkeye, etc)... it was loads of fun and i promptly got home at 6pm and fell asleep until this morning..

word..

"to all the ladies in the house!... the ladies, the ladies."

e

I was that Logger on the North End o' Lindy.

Had it to myself from dawn till 8. Left after left after left. Not the greatest wave, but pretty darn fun when the homebreak ain't working.

The rainbows and dolphins definitely added to the experience. Doof told me later that there were about 10 cruising the bay in a couple of pods.

I saw the his car up on the cliff around 7 and be it stagefright or what, I proceeded to blow every set wave that came to me. I could almost hear him saying, "Come on and catch something and make me think its worth my time." He demured and left it to me and the Dolphins.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 1, 2004 11:07 AM

I also made the drive up to Doran to Honor Dale on Sunday. I got there late, but was able to get in the water with Dale during his second go out and congratulate him on his remarkable committment and achievement.
I was probably in the water with you guys too, e. I was on a 9'4" SF Surf Shop single-fin; short grey beard, getting mediocre rides (as per usual).
Later on I moseyed on over to the party and was feeling very uncomfortable, since I didn't know a soul there. Apparently Mr. Doof introduced himself, but I was too socially autistic to pick up the Surfermag bb reference - I can be a real dweeb sometimes. Dale was a gracious host and his teenaged daughter's killer little jazz combo churned out some GOOD, GOOD music.

Posted by: Jimmie at March 1, 2004 11:26 AM

nice one friend #1.. that was a solid-looking wave. after it crunched you it actually reformed into a barrelly section on the inside too!

jimmie - yeah.. that jazz band was dynamite. fur sure. sweet.

this is kind-of what that skip frye fish looked like.. (can anyone find a better pic?)

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 11:45 AM

E,

Great times yesterday, thanks. I have a picture of the Great Bandini's board, how does one post a pic?

Posted by: bird at March 1, 2004 11:56 AM

whattup bird.. you can email me the pics if you want.. cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

or check out momentoffame.com i think they offer free pic hosting.. then you can link to that pic from the comments section.

img src="examplepic.jpg" (with the tags at the beginning and end)

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 12:13 PM

The Lane was pretty fun on Saturday and Sunday. But like one of my local pals said, it was just big enough to be interesting but small enough to motivate half of the Bay Area to show up. Made for some interesting situations like this one. E, if I had known you were around the corner at NB, I would have grabbed some shots. One of these days.

Posted by: Bruce at March 1, 2004 12:32 PM

Posted by: blakestah at March 1, 2004 12:36 PM

tyrez made this

Posted by: at March 1, 2004 12:36 PM

for bbr and all the boogers.....

Haruwn, (a very chill dude mentioned by Robme last week) styling some SF glass......

http://image.pbase.com/u41/moky_b/upload/26477203.DSCF8928.jpg

....with some speed to burn
http://image.pbase.com/u41/moky_b/upload/26477204.DSCF8929.jpg

Posted by: tom at March 1, 2004 12:45 PM

I just read the BVB interview and found it very interesting. I am definitely in that new transplant crew that rides OB. I am a surf bum but to the locals I will forever be a transplant and garnish little respect getting my waves locally, sans the big days.
Im not writing about me but an exp I had while at Sloat

BVB is not a bad guy at all. This dude introduced himself to me without any hoopla or tension. I had seen this dude rip before and was stoked that he was even addressing me. Contrary to the name BVB was cheerful, friendly and just plain cool by anyone's standard. I subsequently saw him at other times when he acted just the same. I really dont like the BVB moniker but get a kick out of using it anyway. Just like the one used by my buddies for me.I dont mind it as like BVB our attitude and surfing has changed. This is important to remember next time you see BVB. Give the guy a smile, show your respect in the water and enjoy sharing space with an accomplished surfer and individual. I for one, get stoked everytime I see this dude hit the water.

Posted by: pez at March 1, 2004 12:56 PM

Hey - that booger nearly ran me down a coupla times a week ago Friday! It was getting late, so you couldn't see anything when you paddled back out due to the sunset, and he nearly plastered me not once, but twice! He was dropping in, and I was coming back out.

Posted by: blakestah at March 1, 2004 12:56 PM

I guess the Doof partied too hard yesterday as he was late to the 'Mar this morning. I called him up about his abstention from the Cliff, and he is complaining of a Stuffed-up head so opted out of work.

Damn, the least he could have done was bring me one of Dale's Brownies.

Posted by: Friend #1 at March 1, 2004 01:00 PM

haha, that guy is legendary. i've seen him at FP numerous times, very low-pro and chill.

if anyone here likes metal or stoner rock or basically anything heavy, i suggest you check out High On Fire on 3/28 at Bottom of the Hill. heavy, slow, hypnotic shit. it pretty much rules, and i don't even really like metal.

Posted by: bbr at March 1, 2004 01:01 PM

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 01:05 PM

as blakestah is already noting, the springtime pattern seems to be setting in. and so it is time for the depressing annual ritual of preparing to add to the surf equation the possibility of 2+ hours of driving being necessary to find waves.

but at least we had some groundswell energy this weekend. i drove south on Sun and wound up on west cliff just a few reefs away from where e was on sat, also my first time on this particular reef, which was surprisingly under-populated. caught a few good ones and appreciated the more-consistent reef setups.

sounds like it was fun up north with dale.

blakestah, will you be stopping your daily report again? how do you determine when?

Posted by: loon at March 1, 2004 01:23 PM

There will be no stopping of the report this year, as long as people continue to test ride the UFO at SF Surfshop. In past years I halted on March 1, cold, although maybe once or twice I waited another week or two if the winter pattern stayed a little longer.

The first time I did the report, I got depressed reporting on whole weeks with nothing but onshores and weak swell. I've gotten over that.

Posted by: blakestah at March 1, 2004 01:39 PM

SF fish is too narrow in the tail, doesn't look like it would work IMHO...Santa Cruz was fun this weekend

Posted by: mexisurf at March 1, 2004 01:40 PM

That SF Fish -

Actually that shape (narrow in the tail) is the exact shape I keep seeing this guy riding up here in Sonoma Co. This guy consistently shreds on one very similar in shape, and it had me seriously considering getting one.

Now with e's write-up I'm really convinced...

Posted by: Jack at March 1, 2004 01:45 PM

that's good news blakestah...cause as sad as it sounds, I remember gettin some serious withdrwals when the forecasting stops...

Posted by: jdz at March 1, 2004 01:47 PM

Jack, Skip's fishs are wider in the tail, check out the red fish in the first foto, the SF board is an interpretation.

Posted by: mexisurf at March 1, 2004 02:04 PM

Blakestah- you made my week and my summer. Thanks for the ongoing stoke and k-n-o-w-l-e-d-g-e

Posted by: steama at March 1, 2004 02:19 PM

Hey e, what time were you at NBs, i checked it around 11am. saw 2 guys riding nice, but small waves, drove onto the lane, passed on that nightmare and wound up surfing a spot just up from pleasure point, i think maybe sewer peak, but maybe not, it was that nice right hander at the end of a deadend street, anyway. i pretty much got as many waves as i wanted, i sat outside the crowds and grabbed most of the larger waves, i think the crew wanted to pick up the smaller waves that barrelled near the rocks. anyway, nice weather, wished for about 10' more swell but so goes it.

Posted by: dsx at March 1, 2004 02:22 PM

pez -- enjoyed your perspective on the BVB interview.

Mav's -- did anyone see the contest? I know some of you did.

Like most, I couldn't find parking so hiked in
from the back. Really that view requires
binoculars, so I had to borrow some, which turns
out to be nice way to meet folks. A couple of
young moms agreed to keep my 2 year old from
throwing himself over the cliff while I watched a
couple of rides with their binocs. Anyway, that
back cliff -- on the other side of Ross's, so
it's a long way -- is really cool in that you can
see how much distance the wave covers. I was
blown away. I kept looking for riders near the
pack of boats, but then I realized this...
this... THING that was way outside and moving
super duper fast was not a jetski at all, it was
a surfer, almost out near that buoy, moving so
fast, way out ahead of the wave on the flat, then
turning (right) as the wave nearly gobbled it up
again, reappearing like i dunno 100 yards away?
200 yds? on the shoulder, setting up a turn and
blasting back down again, outracing the skidoo
next to him. It's an impressive view, I
definitely recommend it. But yeah, you need field glasses (or pretty friends with field glasses). Good for Flea, btw.

Fish -- doesn't T&C have a retro fish? Has anyone ridden that? I love my fish. But it's a more modern design.

Posted by: robme at March 1, 2004 02:27 PM

robme...you brought a smile to my face with your comment about your two-year-old trying to fling himself off the cliff. my two-year-old is also of the flinging variety...i know of what you speak! I thought about taking him as well...and then wussed out.

Posted by: jd at March 1, 2004 02:50 PM

sounds like some o' you heads scored nicely this weekend! very cool. i had 6 non-surfing buddies from my hometown visiting this weekend so my fun was bountiful, but it (sadly) didn't include any water-time.

Robme...i took my crew to check out the contest on Friday. frickin' great time. the sets seemed a little sparse, but there were some solid rides and there was such a cool vibe in the crowd that it didn't really matter.

Posted by: ck at March 1, 2004 02:53 PM

wow.. thanks for that mav's contest reports ck and robme. sounds like a fun time. I've never actually seen Mavs break, except as distant white-water while surfing the jetty. crazy shite!

bruce - i think i saw you taking photos at the Lane. Do you have a huge lens on what looks like a digital camera?

dsx.. yeah. that was probably me at Natties around 11.. there were only 2 of us out there. and the waves were small except for a few nuggets every 15 minutes or so.

santa cruz is so blessed. To have a flexible schedule and live there would be purdy nice.

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 03:13 PM

glad you guys know him. can't anybody bring him live and not just a link?

BBR?! is it up to you to fight the discrination from these "stand up surfers"

Posted by: tom at March 1, 2004 03:14 PM

oh shit...thanks blakestah.....sorry all you rippers and tech wizards....

i see the pic now.....

Posted by: tom at March 1, 2004 03:17 PM

On Giving And Taking

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To give pleasure is to hold control. My favorite act.

Posted by: at March 1, 2004 03:27 PM

jd -- glad to hear it's age and not my genetics!

yeah, ck, it was a good scene wasn't it? I saw all the helicopters and airplanes and was therefore worried about a zoo, but I was pleasantly surprised. Peeps having a good time. I wonder if anyone paid the $175 to go out on the spectator boat.

One year (two years ago? The second contest, whenever that was) I actually won a spot to go out on the boat somehow. Only I didn't know it, as I had gotten up early and driven out to watch from the cliff. But the parking was crazy at like 7am. So I surfed the jetty instead with some friends (fun), and later, when I got to work, there was an email message from Mavsurfer saying "Greenlight -- the contest is on! You have been chosen to go on the boat. If you can claim your seat by 7am, it's yours.", or some such.

D'oh!

Posted by: robme at March 1, 2004 03:35 PM

shifty, sucky, sandbar, solo, silliness, saturday. still smiling monday.

love the bvb perspective. he is spot on, the sity's secrets where sold, so sad.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 1, 2004 03:50 PM

Robme... definitely some peeps on the boats (they had a picture of one of the boats in the Sunday edition of the SC Sentinal). Might have been worth it, in my view, if it had been a larger day.

Santa Crowded Sentinel's Mavs Coverage:
Friday
Big-wave riders flock to Maverick’s surf contest today
Saturday
Flea’s a charm
Flea-peat
Sunday
What the future holds for big-wave surfing
In the water: What a thrill to witness
The woman who rides mountains

Posted by: dano at March 1, 2004 04:14 PM

i'm down with a major groin pull due to the sucking shorepound at terrorval. fecal surfed the outside for two hours on saturday and got some fun bombs but got grabbed by the headhigh shorepound on the way in - it took one leg and tried to make a thanksgiving wish. felt like somebody was trying to rip my leg and the boys off. had to lay low the rest of the weekend and still walking around *very* slowly today.

anybody know about groin pulls? should i see a pt or just keep icing and stretching?

Posted by: caveman at March 1, 2004 04:14 PM

anybody for a surf?

Posted by: bbr at March 1, 2004 04:33 PM

ice and light stretching and resting the muscle seem to be the rule...

muscle pulls SUCK!!!...good healing to ya!

Posted by: jdz at March 1, 2004 04:36 PM

yo-ho-ho.
Man, e, still kind of sorry about the brownie incident. After we apologized, here's e's dialogue:
"Dude, it's cool. I mean, it's not cool at all, but it's cool."

Stoked you made the drive, and you liked the board. I'm trying to find a weblink to the Frye, but it's probably easier to send you a shot.

You've got mail!
--B

Posted by: bandini at March 1, 2004 04:40 PM

check out some of the funky and somewhat pricey fishes on this site...found it on swaylocks.com

http://www.surfenginez.com/index.html

Posted by: jdz at March 1, 2004 04:46 PM

that's a trippy site jdz.

i like this board

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 05:16 PM

that brownie bit is effing funny..

Posted by: bagel at March 1, 2004 05:17 PM

these boards look cool.. not too badly priced either..

http://www.mandalacustomshapes.com/canard.html

Posted by: e at March 1, 2004 05:20 PM

great to hear that blakestah's isn't going to put his report into hibernation this year, takes a wee bit o' the sting out of the ides of march!

thanks!!!

Posted by: loon at March 1, 2004 05:34 PM

effin' funny is right, bagel! i nearly spat out my coffee.

didn't I see something posted here about a mandala day at lindamar?

Posted by: robme at March 1, 2004 05:51 PM

Hear hear on the brownie comment humor. My downstairs neighbors surely think I'm mad after hearing my cackles echoing around the apartment.

About that blowjob poem:

It's done in a verse form known as the pantoum, which comes from a traditional Malaysian verse form called the pantun by way of the French. The structure is a very complicated latticework of repeated lines, and its stanzas are supposed to have a rhyme scheme that goes a/b/a/b. The rhyme scheme isn't there, but the poet gets points on the degree-of-difficulty meter by writing the lines in pentameter.

e, I knew you were wondering.

Posted by: redworm at March 1, 2004 08:02 PM

I, too, was bumming at the thought of losing Blakestah's report in the spring. Glad you decided to keep it going.

Ethan, there were a few people shooting that day. I usually wear a very stupid indiana jones hat to try and protect my baby-ass face from the 20th sunburn.

Just for giggles I created a home page for one the ripper-groms, complete with his "biographical sketch." Very cool kid. You might enjoy a short niceness trip into teen life at:

http://www.surfhumor.com/Nat%20Young%20Home%20Page.htm

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