new swell.. raw.. got skunked
Did the complete drive. got skizunked.
OB big and burly, shorter period.
SF buoy at 10ft 11seconds but conditions seemed bigger.
P-town extra large.
Saw one of the biggest waves I've ever seen at linda mar. Probably double-overhead and breaking top-to-bottom.. mostly a giant closeout barrel but if you happened to be in the right spot ya could've taken off deep... got encapsulated in the toxic green room.. and then spit out into oblivion.
Jetty shitty.
the winds are perfect.. blowing gently out of the E.
with the 0ft low tide at 3pm many places from Santa Crowded to Marin county will be en fuego me thinks. if you're a member of the non 9-5 community get on that shit. fur real.
cheers to Blakestah for deciding to keep his report going for a while longer.
currently reading "The Road Less Traveled" by M. Scott Peck. It's pretty inspiring and revealing. Peck is a pychotherapist who illustrates the main tenets of modern psychoanalysis. He talks about how every human being deals with a certain level of either neurosis (taking on too much responsibility) or character disorder (denying responsibility). He uses case studies to illustrate how various childhood experiences lead to the development of certain coping mechanisms and interpretations of reality. He also discusses how personal psychological growth is always a painful process. He talks about the human inclination to avoid this pain and therefor halt personal growth.
anyway.. a good read for anyone interested in psychology or for anyone that maybe feels a bit stuck on the same level of thinking/being/interacting as they've been on for a while.
a couple pics of Bandini's Skip Frye fish
ben sent me this pic of another schnazzy lookin' fish
the shiny red fish is a Harbour. Methinks its awfully pretty. Thanks to whoever it was that posted the Mandala website. Very enjoyable!
Posted by: ben at March 2, 2004 10:28 AMjust wanted to mention on the fish front that manny caro, of mandala custom shapes (mentioned yesterday), is having a fish fest at linda mar on march 20. he just shaped a beautiful 5'6" canard quad fish for me. i don't have any pics yet, but she's incredible. surfed the rivermouth in sc for 5 hours on sat. long rides ending in clay colored water. a little scary, but i feel fine. and on sunday got this insanely fast, bending, bowly left at the jetty. it's a really, really fast fun board. so, anyway, he'll have boards that peeps can ride and he's an awesome shaper. check it out. (i might even let you try mine out if you promise to be nice to her.)
Posted by: steamwand at March 2, 2004 10:29 AMthe pic was from the Harbour website: http://www.harboursurfshop.com/
Posted by: ben at March 2, 2004 10:30 AMa good spot to kill time at work, drooling.
Cheers!
That's rad Steam! Congrats on the board, they look so beautiful in pics, I imagine the real deal is stunning!
Posted by: ben at March 2, 2004 10:36 AMBVB complains about yuppies and then talks about staying at the W. Quite a condradiction.
Posted by: at March 2, 2004 11:01 AMHey-
The man just has taste and style.
Posted by: pez at March 2, 2004 11:31 AMkelly at kirra.. the first wct of 2004 is underway on the gold coast. www.aspworldtour.com
Posted by: e at March 2, 2004 12:12 PMyellow board angry matt on his white board
(sequence by Bruce)
http://www.surfhumor.com/12-28-03%20OB%20083.jpg
http://www.surfhumor.com/12-28-03%20OB%20273.jpg
http://www.surfhumor.com/12-28-03%20OB%20274.jpg
http://www.surfhumor.com/12-28-03%20OB%20275.jpg
http://www.surfhumor.com/12-28-03%20OB%20276.jpg
Posted by: tom at March 2, 2004 12:39 PM
Posted by: at March 2, 2004 12:44 PMnice sequence Bruce!!
Posted by: mexisurf at March 2, 2004 01:00 PMIf you want to get barrelled at O*B*, today might be your day. NE winds, crossed up swell, making decent pointy peaks all over -- beware, it's meaty and treacherous out there, and they unload with a horrendous bone crunching.
The waves are pretty easy to get into. I guess one of the directions (N?) is windswell and isn't moving too fast. (Though the paddle back out is a bit of a challenge.) I put in at Vfw and got out about 40 minutes later in the middle of the beach.
I thought those articles Dano posted out of the SC Sentinel were pretty decent. It's cool that SC covers Mavs so heavily (unless you are one of the crusty ones who doesn't want anywhere in California to any publicity). SC is like a little slice of HI (or Australia?) glued to our coast. Does the Sentinel covers other events like Pipe or the Eddie.
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 01:06 PMRobme.. good on ya for going out there.. geez!
shot from the mavs contest.
Posted by: e at March 2, 2004 01:11 PMI rode Manny's 5'6" twin fish at the last fish fest at Lindy, and I will testify that the board flew. Though a bit shorter than I prefer, it was great. Look forward to trying another on the 20th. Thanks for the head's up!
Also: Surf film Nite on Thursday at the Balboa here in SF. 7:15p, 9:15p. Drive Thru: Australia. Come to the late show and compete for a brand spankin' new XCEL wettie.
Posted by: bandini at March 2, 2004 01:14 PM--B
Hey Robme....
...did you eat the whole brownie or just half?
Posted by: tom at March 2, 2004 01:30 PMLast night I found this one buried on my hard drive and added it to the site. Thought you might enjoy a thickish green one from the Lane this weekend. Speaking (instead) of REAL photography, did you see that Stinkeye's pictures of the Mav contest are all over the SurferMag home page? Hope they end up in the next issue. Go Steve!
Posted by: Bruce at March 2, 2004 01:31 PMYeah, Thursday at the Balboa. I'll try to be there.
E -- wrt M Scott Peck, I seriously recommend Victor Frankl "The Will To Meaning" -- I personally think it is a very excellent reply to Nieitschze's "A Will To Power" or whatever it is (some one please correct me), but I don't like fighting, so all you non-pussies with delusions to top-dogdom will no doubt prefer the Neitzsche.
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 01:35 PMoops actually it's Nietzsche and the book of his I was talking about is "Beyond Good and Evil". I found it quite difficult, needless to say.
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 01:38 PMNietzsche is cool, but not nearly as good as Master Lin-Chi. Plus, I've found Nietzsche can lead to Kant and Hume, and that's a really slow boring fate. Once you get the hang of Lin-Chi, things start turning up all over.
Posted by: blakestah at March 2, 2004 01:47 PMhey tom -- er, I think that was our boy e you are thinking of? (unless i am missing something...)
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 01:54 PMseriously Robme..even Nietzsche wouldnt paddle out today..props
also props to yellow board angry matt on his white board, smooth.
Posted by: bagel at March 2, 2004 01:55 PMwell, thanks, but... hmm, i think it must have cleaned up a bit since dp'ers saw it this am. in fact, when i left a little crowd was starting to build up in front of the windmill. I saw a couple of decent rides. then i went to trader joe's which was also incredibly thick and heavy.
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 02:04 PMrobme, so funny that you mentioned Frankl. i was going to post about him when i read the main page this AM but had to run..."Man's Search for Meaning" is also excellent. it's half about self-determined destiny and half about Frankl's experience in the Nazi concentration camps. very heavy, but lots to chew on and be inspired by. some people survive the unthinkable just because they think they can....
a nice metaphor for the next time you're counting to 20 at OB or slipping into the lineup at Point TJ (geary/masonic--the only heavy, barreling, locals-only spot i frequent). talk about smackdown!
Posted by: friendly at March 2, 2004 03:24 PMhey all.. my friend is looking for a triathalon wetsuit.. any ideas on where to pick one up?
word.
Posted by: e at March 2, 2004 04:03 PMsports basement
Posted by: at March 2, 2004 04:06 PMthanks!
radio controlled surfer
Posted by: e at March 2, 2004 04:17 PMe, meg ordered hers from oneils and picked it up at wise. it was pretty cheap.
friendly -- yes!! that's the name of the book i was thinking of. i love that book. frankl is the best! the concentration camp survival is inspirational, and then the doctor that he in a way forgives -- when the going gets tough, it would seem we aren't such a bad species after all. (Why is it that when the going is easy we just go to pieces?)
Posted by: robme at March 2, 2004 04:20 PMHey Niceness -
Finally getting a chance to come in out of the water and dry off down here a little so I can say what's up to San Fran's Phinest chargers. I've been living the Pura Vida of Costa Rica for about a month now... and I only have the sweetest things to say about this dreamy life. I've spent most of my time in the Caribbean town of Puerto Viejo, which is where I am right now... I never thought any Sea related to the Atlantic could fire so well, but it's definitely The Season down here.
So here's my surf report: I've surfed the gnarlesburg heavy barreling Salsa Brava a few times... scored a handful of insano fast rides, slight coverups, and intense fun... and also had my ass handed to me more than a few times. Some good dings, been sucked dry misjudging the reef pass, and heavy pindowns but no reef contact yet. I far prefer the fun, hollow beach break south of town which is awesome fun when the swell is backed off... The swell here is mostly short period stuff... I bet our buoy today reads like yours, 8 feet at 11 seconds, or something like that. Still extremely consistant, and the morning glass is siiiiiilky smoooooooth. Like I said, it's Pura Vida aqui... had a good run with something like 12 out of 13 days in the water... scoring frequent marathon 6 hours a day, sunrise sunset sessions... and Bob Marley pours out of every window in town... surf all day, dance to Reggae all night.
Well I wish I had gotten a chance to say what's up to all ya'll heady folk sooner... but starting next week, I'm moving to the Pacific coast town of Dominical, where I'll be working at an Internet Cafe to make ends meet for this tropical life... so plenty of more chatter and surf stories to come then... I'll probably be a regular poster again at that point, though I will only be able to dream fondly of our favorite NorCal waves. If any of you are coming by this way, give me a shout.
One Love to Niceness... take care everyone.
-Jocular Jake
Posted by: jake at March 2, 2004 04:34 PMmercy.
between that post from jake and hearing about ck's el sal plans, i am ready to elope with myself and take a honeymoon in the tropics. yeah........
robme...i don't know. i really don't know...my guess is that it's got a lot to do contrasts. or something.
Posted by: friendly at March 2, 2004 04:47 PMthanks for the book recs robme and friendly.. i'll check frankl out.
Jake!! dood! siiiiick!! hopefully you'll still be down there in about 45 days and we can hook it up for a session or 20.
Ocean power techologies to harness Spanish waves
Posted by: e at March 2, 2004 05:13 PMThose radio controlled surfers may look cheesy but they are sooo much fun. A friend of mine had one and we took it out at the Huntington Pier a year or so ago and had a blast. They totally cruise in the water. Chest-high waves are like Mav's for that little thing. You can ride down the line, get shacked, do cutties, etc. Kooky but seriously fun...
Posted by: mwsf at March 2, 2004 05:49 PMWith all the philosophy spinning, I'm surprised nobody's mentioned Walden. Many's the time I've been out at OB and thought I've got all the universe I need right here. Plus he was such a nonconformist, definitely tuned into timeless aspects of nature. God's eyes.
Posted by: banjo at March 2, 2004 06:20 PMJake!...you are (no surprise!) livin' large! so stylin'...so great to hear. enjoy the west coast...the vibe will be different, but it will still be uber-kewl. i know it will come through for ya. peace.
btw...in case any of you heads start gettin' jealous from friendly's post thinking that i'm on a Jake-esque many month slurf-fest down in El Salvador...let's just say that i wish! ; ) however, i am heading down there with my lady-charger and couple other surfing amigos for a week of (hopefully) non-stop surf in mid-April. can't wait! if any of you experienced travel heads have any recs, i'd love to hear 'em. gracias.
Posted by: ck at March 2, 2004 06:29 PMRobme, you might want to steer clear of Levi's "The Drowned and the Saved"... could blow the 'people are solid in rough spots' concept all to hell. Not that I don't recommend it. Also follows the author's experience in a concentration camp, only the picture of how humans react to atrocity, extreme stresses and gnarly social stimulus is not positive. In fact I do very much recommend it, an excellent look at what humans are capable of and subject to, but it's not an upper.
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