extrapolate from without
The mime gesticulates wildly
surging aquatic vectors blast and whir
Subtle blending of ambiant inertias
paltry cohesion strives to occur
Western man upholds the ego
A separation of all identities
the individuation of the self
A gestalt of megalomaniacal propensities.
Fear of death as the great arbiter
Fear of death as the humbling machine
Fear of death as societal leveler
Fear of death as the deep-seeded dream
But oneness comes while losing the self
It comes from immersion, acceptence and love
Oneness comes through awareness and vision,
It comes from within, about and above.
One path of knowledge comes from catagorization,
disection, observation, labelling and tabelling.
Another comes from deep interaction,
from flowing and melding, delving and growing.
With surfing we're forced to exit our selves.
We're forced to extend toward the language of nature.
We strive to blend with the wave-form energy
We boundlessly extend toward the womb of creation.
While riding we cease to separate ourselves
from the hydra of our true being.
While gliding we literally lose ourselves
to the radiant light of true seeing.
alby falzon pics
so... no pics?
Posted by: mr squibb at March 4, 2004 10:30 AME-
Thats some deep shit. I sure wish I had a blunt to smoke right now as I was wild and reckless @ POPS last nite. They have $1 Hams on Weds great for any poor surfer/skater/playa. I went to OB yeterday around 5pm and it was blown out. Spring is sooo here and it sucks!!!!!! Hope to see happiness folk @ the Balboa for Drive Thru. Someone please bring some herb cause Im fuckin out of it.
peace
Posted by: Pez at March 4, 2004 10:32 AMes muy bonita, fuerte, y absorbente, mi companero de La Mar. Muchas gracias
Posted by: ben at March 4, 2004 10:34 AMsurfing as approaching a medium to nirvana :)
Posted by: i got your pix at March 4, 2004 10:34 AMYour board looks cool Elias, nice paint job. Left work at 2:00 the students having got the best of me, went to OB and was happy to see some fun dumping olas at VF's. It blew out about 4:20 yesterday, just in time. When I got home I was stoked to see a copy of The Surfers Path with my story and Pic's, ten pages. A bad day turned good. Peace out P
Posted by: mexisurf at March 4, 2004 10:51 AMe...you are one creative mo'fo. nice.
Posted by: ck at March 4, 2004 10:55 AMWhile I was in my Vanagon in Goleta, and even before that with my x in Ellwood, working with plants, hanging out with birds and in the water with chill SB locals, enjoying classes....
that (your poem) is what my days were like--the blending into beautiful surroundings, pockets of wilderness, learning who my many and varied neighbors were and how they lived, whether purple bunch grasses or little leopard sharks or by-the-winds-sailors...noticing winds and moods, paddling out alone at 2am to watch the bioluminescence cracking off my rails, watching sea lion corpses decay on the beaches in times of exceptionally high algal blooms. becoming more a part of it everyday, shedding walls that our culture builds up which make us feel safe (?) but also force us to forget who and what we are...
geez, sorry if that seems over the top. But it is what true surfing (a way of life, time in wilderness) is to me--a way to peel back built up layers of cultural crud and remember what is really possible. I love what surfing has helped make available to me. Always happy to hear similar sentiments voiced, while the mags pay homage to sport and towing in.
niceness.
Posted by: at March 4, 2004 11:04 AMYo E!
Posted by: lancers at March 4, 2004 11:07 AMGreat poem dawg. I'm just chillin at work, mackin some organic salad and tofu. As good as that is, reading your poem made it even better. I see the leopard. We are one!
mexisurf -- you're a teacher i take it? cool. i have total respect for the teachers. My kids beat me down pretty much daily, and I only have two of em! don't know how you do it.
Anyway, I wanted to say dude that rocks on the surfer's path stuff. is that a british mag? actually i don't know much about it. congrats though -- definitely will walk down to wise and see if they have a copy.
Posted by: robme at March 4, 2004 11:09 AMSurfer's path is Australian - SF Surfshop carries it.
Elias, what is the bottom contour on your board? Vee or concave or double, flat or rolled through the tail?
I'm getting curious - I saw the brown turd the other day, and the bottom surprised me.
Posted by: blakestah at March 4, 2004 11:21 AMmexisurf. read and laughed with your article last night! love the pics, love the subtle ganj references. cool random central coast ending. super tight!
thanks for sharing "Vanagon in Goleta."
lancers - nice leopard vision.. you had me laughin'
Posted by: e at March 4, 2004 11:23 AMthought Surfer's Path was British? Pretty slick mag, goodonya Mexi!
Posted by: ben at March 4, 2004 11:27 AMweird but cool
Posted by: e at March 4, 2004 11:33 AMbioluminescent tooth bases -- sick!
Posted by: r at March 4, 2004 11:38 AMthanks for the words of encouragement. looks are one thing.... i'll report in a couple of days as to how it performs...
blakestah, its a single to double concave, maybe a little heavy handed, but it's not to extreme, with a 45 degree bevel on the rail that tapers off at about 18" from the nose and the first wing. though the glasser didn't carry the hard rails as far up as i would have liked. it should still float.
as for the color... well. that was a funny little experiment with a airbrush.... at one point during the application, i just said " screw it... " and just started spraying and stopped trying to make it look good. i did a good job of making it ugly... though its kind of growing on me now.
ive nicknamed it the "bobo malolo"
hope all the niceness keeps flowing.
peace.
Posted by: elias at March 4, 2004 11:55 AMbobo malolo
Posted by: e at March 4, 2004 12:01 PMe, your writing is getting tight.
Posted by: bagel at March 4, 2004 12:19 PMmore quiksilver pro results --
http://live.coastalwatch.com/default.aspx?eid=12579
i've been rooting for mick fanning, looks like he lost in rnd 2.
Posted by: robme at March 4, 2004 01:10 PMThanks E, that means a lot coming from you. My writing is simple and to the point. I don't think your Olomomo board is ugly, you should see the first board I painted, it's FUGLY and for sale at the Lg Shop. PEACE
Posted by: mexisurf at March 4, 2004 01:20 PMoops i MEANT YOUR BOARD ISN'T UGLY...SORRY, AND tsp IS A uk MAG...
Posted by: MEXISURF at March 4, 2004 01:43 PMthanks for continuing past March 1, blakestah...and congrats PF on the surfer's path feature. that's sweet. gonna have to check it out.
e, what's the word on BASE?
god i wish i were surfing right now.
Posted by: friendly at March 4, 2004 02:28 PMGold Coast: Yesterday!
Hmmm...
Posted by: Kaiser at March 4, 2004 03:04 PMfriendly.. BASEmag is finished.. i'm currently proofreading and looking into printing options. I'm also trying to compile a "best of niceness comments" as a final little section of the zine. soo.. email me your favorite blurbs or comments. (cranial_bulge@yahoo.com)
Posted by: e at March 4, 2004 03:13 PMOne of these days we need to have a tongue-in-cheek "write like Ethan contest" to see if anyone can even come close.
Get that zine to the printer! Your fans are waiting!
Posted by: Bruce at March 4, 2004 03:34 PMKaiser always finds the best shots of gulls.
Posted by: robme at March 4, 2004 03:43 PMRobme, I just do what I can! Lack of surf brings out the best in my web surfing ability I guess.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 4, 2004 03:48 PMKaiser -- I'm just stoked that the presence of human in your picture doesn't dampen your ornithogical steez -- I know how puritanical you bird watchers can be!
Posted by: robme at March 4, 2004 04:20 PMer...let me try again -- ornithological?
Posted by: robme at March 4, 2004 04:20 PM
Posted by: e at March 4, 2004 04:27 PMI had to reach for the dictionary for that one!
Yeah, bird watching is a favorite past time of mine. Occasionally, you might find me fixated on local birds cruising the line-up, flapping their wings. In fact, on my recent trip to Hawaii this week, I found several species of birds to distract me from my wave riding. Their feathers were so keen to the eye as opposed to the drab version I typically see around these parts! Another attribute of traveling I supposed. Exotic birds...
Posted by: Kaiser at March 4, 2004 04:33 PMhmmm...yep...nothin' quite as distracting as nice "plumage".... ; )
Posted by: ck at March 4, 2004 04:56 PMthe ocean was blown, raw and ugly this am, so i took a trip to the marin side. There was one guy out. One guy out catching powderballs, proning until out front, then crawling to his feet. Well he took off on this one, only right after he got to his feet he ran out of water. Steep beach, he literally surfed onto dry sand. Wait, it gets worse. He goes down like his board just got stuck on the bottom (which the damn thing did), then the gravel truck, this over head-high shorepound he was riding, unloads on him. I'm thinking drowning scenario, but no, the energizer bunny wobbles up. It reminded me of one of those penguin-in-antarctic-storm scenes next. After taking about four more steep shore piledrivers, however, the guy gets lucky and prones up the beach high enough to not get sucked back out. Needless to say, session over. Wow. A- for chutzpah, D for awareness/intelligence. It wasn't an F (as in finito) because god was laughing too hard. The scene from shore.
Posted by: banjo at March 4, 2004 10:00 PMyo..dig your report(s)...dales party was far out...geo is stoking my brains out giving me this board..my first real shorty...no more fucking log..im rambling..peace...
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