E's Surf Report: nothing stellar.. but.. a few olas

Minimal winds at 6:30 at the Beach. VFers within surfable range.. but.. a little thumpy/dumpy, a bit large, and nobody around. biggest waves slightly over head-high... maybe more. The shape left much to be desired. Disheveled, warbly, indecisive wave-forms galloped in and crunched on the inside bars. A few corners and opportunities presented themselves.. but.. it'd be a grind out there. Soo.. southward... flock-an'-play showing some life. breaking semi-glassy and small through the middle and south end. nobody out. I thought about it for a minute but then headed down to our very own little cesspool. Over the hill then looking down on our little gem of a cove. our little playland of picturesque peeling perfection. Ha!! As if!

Disorganized, junky-but-interesting head-high peaks gyrated up and down the beach. The south-end looked every bit as large as the north, i think as a result of the predominant NW direction of this 7ft 14sec swell (SF buoy). Soo.. I'll splay a quick recap of my session:

- Kinda psyched in the lot as i watch a few offshore-groomed shoulders peel along

- Start paddling and notice how farking cold the aqua is. geez.

- 30 duckdives later i'm still paddling out. what the fuck happened to the mellowness?!?

- 10 more duckdives i'm off my board, holding my head with my hands in a futile attempt to alleviate the mind-bending ice-cream-headache. god damn!!

- finally make it out after cursing the Gods of Lindy.

- try unsuccessfully to find a shoulder amongst the aggressive closeouts.

- finally grab a left.. scoot down the line.. then get bucked off by a weird warble.. kind-of a kookie ride.

- countless more duckdives as i flirt with the inside and try to be in position.

- start thinking negatively. i.e. "Man this sucks out here." "I'm not catching jack shite." "That last wave was so kooky, after all this time i still can't surf." "blah blah growl blah cold blah blah closeout blah blah what's that weird boil? blah blah negative blah"... soo.. i'm in a shitty mind-set and need to get out of it..

- after 15 minutes of no rides i finally nab a little closeout drop..

- then i slowly become self-aware of the negativity circling through my head.

- i try to relax for a second and change my perspective.

- I now consciously get into the mind-set of, "all i'm trying to do is catch a wave. I'm just going to have fun with that simple task. Scour the horizon and just concentrate on catching waves.. not shredding.. not smacking the lip.. not bumming on your session.. just catching a wave."

- so i start to cheer up a bit. This "just have fun trying to catch a wave" philosophy takes me back to when i was 8 years old catching waves on my little orange boogie board. I remember as a little kid deriving the same enjoyment from the simple act of seeing a wave approach, anticipating its trajectory, then stroking into it and gliding down the line.

- soo.. as if the surf-gods are smiling down on me in agreement.. a large, shapely right cruises in directly to me.. a few paddles and i'm up.. steep drop.. a few pumps near the bottom.. then turn up the face.. slow, long turn off the top.. then back down to the bottom.. around a section.. then a few more pumps and a small floater/turn off the close-out.

-kewl.

- paddle back out and i'm smiling after that one.. work my way back to my spot and a minute later another peaky right cruises in and i milk it for an enjoyable journey. schweet.

- 10 or so more rides later call it a sesh and feel the juicy goodness of some good waves in my belly on the drive home.. and now..

Watched Drive-thru Australia last night at the Balboa theater.. Sat with Ian and her crew and then cheered maniacally for him as he fricken almost won a new wetty in the "australian accent contest." In my opinion the other guy was a shmo and Ian was clearly the best. Ian.. that wetsuit should've been yours bro!
My personal opinion of the movie was that the surfing and waves were great but the "personality" shots of the surf stars and the road trip was super lame and filled with a weird vibe. Every time any of the surfers commented on the waves it was things like, "man, these waves suck".. "nothing but closeouts," "i want more sleep".. etc.. then you'd see them surfing these resweetulous waves!! Just perfect waves almost every session. Typical pro-surfer jadedness i guess. Machado and Donovan are fun to watch, for sure. and damn. those guys can find the barrel!!! fuck!

i actually preferred Bandini and Alex's movie "Piranha Surf!" Hi-fucking-larious! The North Shore preview was funny too.

thanks Bandini and Alex for putting that together!

also good to see Bojon in attendence!! that kid's gonna be a dad in a matter of hours!!! yup. Michelle looks like she has a beach ball in her stomach. Look out for Cassidy Hahn shredding up local spots in the not-too-distant future.

also good to see bird, adam, sam, B Biggs and crazy Moss Landing ripper Nathan representin'..

I'm looking to maybe put together a little post-work jam at my place this evening.. I'm trying to get Marco to come.. then.. maybe Caveman?? anyone else have interest??

South Florida pics

mmmm

(thanks Patrick Roddie for the beautiful, captivating pics!!)

Found your site through BVB rant on Surfline. Very refreshing, reminds me of back in the day, up & down Hwy 1 looking at the spots you surf & winding up back at 4 mile. Daily. In the 70's. It was easy, no crowds, sharks, cold h2o, etc. You guys are brave, surfing OB, Mav's, by yourselves. Charging big waves, stuff we watched but would not go out in. You guys are bold. Still surfing, just not w/ your's or your friends stoke.

Posted by: at March 5, 2004 11:17 AM

ian...bummer to hear that you were scooped for first place in the accent contest! good on ya for givin' it a go.

anonymous poster / long-time surfer above...i'm not sure if folks today are the brave ones or you guys were dealin' with the cold agua despite inadequate (or even non-existent) wetties in the 70's! regardless...30 years of surfing? that sounds stoked to me!

Posted by: ck at March 5, 2004 11:25 AM

Ian was totally ripped off. He was not only better but that other dude was actually Australian. He had a large posse with him so that really helped him out. In any case it was cool meeting Ian and he should talk to Alex about disqualifing that poor surfer from down under. Looks like good times this weekend at the beach!!!

Posted by: pez at March 5, 2004 11:43 AM

Haha! That was SICK last night! Pez super cool to meet you man! E, I got the vibe they wetre being sarcastic about the waves suckin, but that's just me. If naything that film does nothing but inspire me to go on a road trip with some friends. Haha, it's so funny that the guy had an actual accent who won the contest. I thought for sure taking the Foster's up would win the crowd over!! I'm still STOKED though! I won a Hurley hat, a Drive-Thru Oz t-shirt, and the little crock prop. Thanks to the guys for putting on the film, I wish the city had that more often! Anyway, it's Friday! Have an awesome weekend everyone! offshizores!

Posted by: Ian at March 5, 2004 11:57 AM

beach has started its clean-up for those with some time on their hands. looking semi-decent, still warbly but much improved

Posted by: at March 5, 2004 12:11 PM

wow film night sounds great, i am sorry i missed the opportunity to meet more of the crew. yeah, go ian! so bandini and alex put it on? very cool...

Posted by: robme at March 5, 2004 12:38 PM

Posted by: dano at March 5, 2004 12:38 PM

brother e,

too long, no see, my friend. good to catch last night. will let you know when shredder-to-be arrives!!

good mental turn this morning. appropriate metaphor for life: keep it positive and good vibes will follow

word,
bojon

Posted by: bojon at March 5, 2004 12:50 PM

e - ain't it a shock when you get slapped around at Pedro!? It's happened to me more than once! About three weeks ago I got worked HARD paddling out at Wanderers - and this was after three days straight of relatively easy paddles in 8 to 10 foot waves at Ocean Beach! CRAZY! I think it's just a matter of timing and gettin' stuck on the wrong sandbar. Sounds like you got it together though and ended up having fun.
I made it to the 7:15 show last night. Thanks Brian and Alecks! We need more of Surf Fest nights at the Balboa!

Posted by: Jimmie at March 5, 2004 12:59 PM

Culled from a former SF resident and guitar inspiration.

"Jorma here:

Thursday, March 04, 2004 Lihue,� 2328 Kauai

This morning we got up and Pam and Kevin took us out to their place for a surfing lesson. There's more to this than meets the eye, that's for sure. We had a great time though, and the energy I expended came to roost in the last two songs of the show tonight. The show was great."

I love when someone I admire for other reasons gives it a go.

I'm jonesin' for an afterwork surf so I'm out of here at around 2:30. Hope it smooths out.

Ethan, would love to join in on a jam session someday. Its been a very long time since I played with other people.

Posted by: kdalle at March 5, 2004 01:18 PM

sorry e, can't jam tonight. been working 14-15 hour days all week and going to hang with my lady tonight for some much needed amor e beijinhos.

going to test the groin pull tomorrow morning - i have to get in the water and purge the 0's and 1's from my brain. i'm going nuts not being able to have mama ocean cleanse my brain.

i need to borrow some surf vids...

Posted by: caveman at March 5, 2004 01:22 PM

e,
been reading your postings for several months and thought it was time to say thanks for the daily reports and observations-
especially enjoyed yesterday's philosophical musings - i'm currently reading a book on tibetan buddhism and am amazed at the comparisons to surfing-
modern culture distracts us from what's important with its obsession with material consumption-
who of us in the surfing community doesn't find more value in pursuit of those great surfing experiences over anything we possess? and how long was your best ride?- 10 seconds? 15 seconds?
amazing how valuable and overwhelming those 15 seconds can be. keep up the good work.

Posted by: billm at March 5, 2004 01:23 PM

more props for the Aqua guys...it's so cool that they put those movies on. i'll echo the sentiment about "surf pirahna," too. god, i hope alex's finger grows back. that freaking rivermouth...swear to god...it's a death trap.

took a soccer team to lindy this AM and finally got MY board back in the water. that was so nice. john at SF surfshop did a sweet job with the repairs....a little more $$ than expected, but very well worth it. anyway: i left feeling utterly unsated...just ran out of time...but i suppose that's what tomorrow is for.

e, i wish i had your talent for catching rides amidst shiftiness and closeouts.

Posted by: friendly at March 5, 2004 01:24 PM

caveman - bummer on the no jam.. hopefully soon.. yeah man.. keep your lady warm and snuggly - fo sure! tomorrow morning should be the jam at OB.

billm - thanks for the kind words! also thanks for the little reminder of what's important.

bojon - you're the man! the original. And i meant "Cassidy Haan" not "Hahn"..

friendly - just get in "hunt" mode out there. sniff em' out.. then fucking "GO" when the opportunity presents itself. cool you got your board back.

kdalle - i'm 0 for 2 (caveman and marco are both out) in trying to corral fellow jammers over tonight.. but.. if you want to cruise on by or bring a friend or just come solo I'd be down.. My place is pretty sick for jamming as it's a little cottage with high ceiling and no shared walls... so we can pretty much rock out without disturbing anybody.

email me if you're interested (or if anyone else out there wants to puff/jam or just jam).. cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 01:37 PM

could be one of my alltime favorite blakestah forecasts today! Go the 'Stah!

http://www.blakestah.com/surf/

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 01:46 PM

...especially the part about it being nothing like spring in san francisco. yeah! hot damn!

hunt mode...hmmm...

Posted by: friendly at March 5, 2004 01:57 PM

speaking of movie night...how sick was that remote control surfer, charging DOH-TOH surf (actually probably about 24-36" faces!) and pulling barrel rolls, floaters galore, even coming close to pulling in at times? the best flick of the night for sure (e i have to second your emotion on the lameness of the RV potty humor etc...rrrrrr i would expect more from the neo-soul posturing of chob and frankensteiner). i'll take shelter or thicker than water any day even if they have their pretentious "we are so f---ing soul" moments...

Posted by: paul b at March 5, 2004 02:04 PM

ok, the beach is completely blown out and fucked now. It glassed off for a solid half hour before turning to whitecap crap. no need to hurry out here.

Posted by: at March 5, 2004 02:09 PM

Blakestah, calling for 6 straight days of nice winds! I call double-days next week. Might have to get on that rental of his.

Props to Aleck and Bandini for to the films. I personally thought Benji tore that shit up in OZ and I was loving that the "real" Kalani showed up. Best part might have been the "slo-mo-down-the-highway" dildo toss though. Gets my vote. Aqua and crew got a good thing going so let's help them keep it going!

Posted by: Kaiser at March 5, 2004 02:13 PM

Man, you guys. Thanks so much for coming out last night to the theater. We really do work our butts off on these screenings, and it's great to have a bunch of our fellow surfers out there.

And our injuries suffered from the Secret SF Rivermouth are healing well, thanks for your thoughts!

Ian, tough luck about the contest last night. Very unorganized, not really planned too well. We came up with the idea moments before that screening, thinking we had to do something a bit more than a raffle for the wettie. I personally thought the backflip guy deserved it. But the crowd spoke....

Also, support Aqua Surf this weekend. They're having a decent sale on clothes, videos, all that jazz. Go check it out, they're a hard workin' bunch. And friendly as hell.

Alright, I'm done blabbing, off to South San to return the projector. Website for RC surfer is reeseproductions.com
--B

Posted by: bandini at March 5, 2004 02:25 PM

Aqua surf is all good but those drawings at surf movies nights are a sham, Sorry Alex..P

Posted by: mexisurf at March 5, 2004 03:00 PM

yeah we dig the flicks, keep em coming even if we diss some aspects of the whole routine. the only reason the drawings are a sham as far as i'm concerned is 'cause i never f--ing win anything.

how about those b-man betties e? there should be a calendar or something. where do those girls hang out when they're not on the playa?

Posted by: paul b at March 5, 2004 03:37 PM

paul b.. they're here and there.. in the nooks and crannies. at the coffee shop, at the dance studio, at the cell-space, at A Motion Studio, at the food co-op, at wavefest!... or so i tell myself as i stride through hours and hours of solo musical emotional catharsis in my sunset abode... the music hiding and releasing psychological shadows... the music there like a rock, like the most solid companion of all time.. giving back, not asking anything.. flowing and surrounding.. comforting and hugging.. thank god for the music!!! amen.

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 03:53 PM

so where's the niceness happy hour tonight?

Posted by: bbr at March 5, 2004 04:10 PM

Sea Biscuit, 5-6 PM

Posted by: blakestah at March 5, 2004 04:18 PM

Only an hour?

Posted by: Kaiser at March 5, 2004 04:24 PM

ahh mutha finkin yizzin.

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 04:25 PM

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 04:26 PM

Those RC surfers rip so hard! I'm waiting for the tow-in version.

Posted by: dano at March 5, 2004 04:27 PM

I wanna jam, i wanna jam!!! Can anyone babysit my 2 year old and pregnant wifey???? Seriously, I would love to bring over my acoustic and kook out someday with some peeps who actually know what they're doing, or not(cause i don't). Sounds like fun. Maybe someday........have fun.

have a good weekend... see oyu in the water hopefully.

Posted by: jdz at March 5, 2004 04:44 PM

jdz - yeah man.. we should get a jam together... everyone bring whatever they like to play.. then just go for it.. As long as you can strum a few chords or even, at minimum just drone the low E string.. that's all ya need to know.. hmm.. maybe next week.. but.. i'm always trying to organize jams but it's tough to get people together.. hmmm..

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 05:02 PM

Check out Mr Doof....

Love that right hand! Hahaha...and I'm chuckling in a good way.
http://www.surfhumor.com/11-09-03%20LM%20008.jpg

Posted by: at March 5, 2004 05:20 PM

yeah! cool pic. good style doof!

Posted by: e at March 5, 2004 05:25 PM

damn those remote control guys rip!

sheeit i wish i could hit up happy hour. i think ill be in the office till midnight..ready to surf tomorrow though..

Posted by: bagel at March 5, 2004 05:42 PM

rippin shralpin rillin and chillin.

we need to come up with a "niceness hoot" so we can start to identify our digital counterparts in the real world.

anyway, hope everyone gets some nice little sliders in the next coming days. happy weekend to all.

till next time...

peace.

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