murders, shacks and loogies
Absolutely, immaculately gorgeous outside today, as all of you probably know. I tried to sleep off this annoying cold last night with a solid 11 hours but woke up this morning all dizzy and disoriented. I couldn't bear to lay in bed thinking that the surf was going ballistic so i moped to the car and cruised around checking shit.
VFW - super-solid, body-rockin' barrels cracking and smashing and wreaking massive destruction. Lots of bodies floating around out there but i only saw a few successful rides. One guy took off, got pitted, came out, then swooshed violently off-the-lip. fuck yeah! Another guy air-dropped, got pitted, didn't come out. Another guy takes off.. a tad bit slow, and SLAM! just gets clobbered. If you don't have that extra-quick takeoff down-pat you can pretty much forget about it out at VFers this morning. It looked like if you hesitated just the slightest wee bit you'd be tasting sand up in your mug. If you're a seasoned ripper, countless barrels are moaning and lasciviously waiting for you. Go to them. Head their beckoning. Slip your stick into their cavernous innards. Penetrate their slippery apertures and exalt in the primal urgency of their brief, radiant existence. Fly brave barrel-warrior, fly courageously into the shadowy night of procreative demolition.
umm.. yeah.. soo..
It looked really fun out there.. absolutely high-performance, with definite hints of fear and chaos striking deep chords. I had my board and wetty and i started to get ready.. but.. then i started feeling all woozy and i coughed up this huge green/yellow phlegm-ball.. fuck! I did some jumping jacks to see how my body might react to some slight physical exertion and my equilibrium got all out-of-wack and my body forced an immediate sit-down.. in essence saying, "what the fuck are you doing, chump, get back in bed right now!" umm.. yeah.. i'm sick.. Soo.. i then drove down to Sloat just to compare notes. Much glassier down there. not much inner-bar action but the outer bars were crackin' and smackin' and movin' on down the line. Looked good! nobody out. A bit warbly maybe but definitely some solid sections and lines on offer. You'd probably end up taking a family or 4 or 5 sets on the head getting out but once out you'd be laughin' with double-overhead glassy set waves all to yourself. Saw mexisurf in the lot and he told me about the murder yesterday at VFers.. Some crazy gang related shootout. It seems that one of the suspects ran out to the surf zone and buried a gun out there, which the authorities are still looking for. So, if you see a fucking glock poking out of the sand after your session.. maybe call the cops. Even the though the dude shitting on the beach yesterday was narsty.. this is just taking it too far. I actually noticed on sunday the high prevelence of thug-like characters hangin' in the lot at VFers. I thought it interesting, in a socio-anthropologic kind of way, and enjoyed observing their styles and mannerisms and speach-patterns and such while biking around. It reminded me of a bit of the neighborhood i used to live in in West philly, except the vibe was much more friendly and family-style on Sunday.. The Style was decidedly more West-coast too.. more hispanic flavors and tan dickie jeans and wife-beaters and greased hair and mega neck-tats and shit. But on sunday all those dudes where smiling and hangin' with their little kids and drinkin' beers and throwin' out good vibes, at least to the honkey hippy white-boy likes of me. But.. bullets started blazin' yesterday i guess.. Mexisurf was actually in the water when it went down and said that he heard a series of "POP, POP, POP" but didn't really think anything of it. He works in the public school system in south san fran? and said he thought it was a Red vs. Blue gang thing. The chronicle said that it began as a fight between a bunch of their girlfriends which then escalated to the boyz gettin' involved. Shit..
anyway - it farkin' SUCKS being sick and not surfing when its solid and challenging.. i'm sure many of you got into some smooth, wet, succulent, smelly caverns this morning. good on ya!!
caveman and all other injured folk.. i feel your pain.. it SUCKS donkey butt not to be able to surf!
e
I too looked and passed. Although I only checked the middle on the dog walk. Figured it was possible, but not worth taking time off work.
I also am battling the stuffy head, phlemm throat.
The other day I woke up and snarked up the greenish brown coating of my palet/throat. Man it was like I coughed up my retainer without the metal bands.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 10, 2004 10:37 AMi wondered why all those guys were out there digging and all those cop cars were there.
definitely some solid sections, but it was hard to get 'em. i managed into 2 and spent the rest of the time ducking thick, punishing walls.
Posted by: lerm at March 10, 2004 10:37 AMHey e and niceness crew! Hope yous sick ones feel better soon, so pretty out lately.
Posted by: ben at March 10, 2004 10:48 AMDriving down the GH and noticing a good commotion and police tape things went a bit slo mo when I spotted socked (?) feet sticking out from under a blanket!? Guessed it wasn't shark or otherwise ocean related and had a nice sunset sesh, but geez, surreal. Poor bugger.
all sick and dreary niceness crew. go out and buy "cold snap" at whole foods etc. this stuff will change the direction of a cold faster than AI on a J-Bay wall. Oh ya, sweet sandbar action in March rules.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 10, 2004 10:53 AMdude, sux about your cold. gare swears by some new nasal swab, avail at walgreens. haven't tried it myself. too clinical? sorry...
anyhoo, get well soon.
Posted by: robme at March 10, 2004 10:55 AMUnless I'm delirious (always a possibility) I usually go out if I've got the phlegmies. Loosens it up and there's nothing quite as satisfying as a big ball o' snot blown out your nose in the OB shorebreak.
Don't know when you passed by but I was out at sloat from 7:30-8:30. Only 2 others but they each caught a wave in so I was solo for most of the time. Definitely some challenging condidtions. Tough paddles, shorter period and a little disorganized but glassy smooth surface. More like being a hunter than a gatherer today. Most sets in the well OH range with power to spare. Only caught a few and went in. I'm a little spent after so many continuous days out.
Robme, you referring to Zicam? I use it and it seems to help. There are claims that it wrecks you sense of smell.
Posted by: kdalle at March 10, 2004 11:19 AMkdalle.. nice.. i figured you'd be out there but i checked it around 6:45. i also usually go out if i'm feeling just phlegmy.. but.. i've also got this weird light-headed, low-energy, dizzy thing careending through my head. blah! tomorrow (after two days no surf) i won't be able to resist any longer.
3to5 - i'll check out "cold snap"..
Posted by: e at March 10, 2004 11:26 AMYeah I had this cold yesterday for the 30 minute paddle out too.
My daughter started day-care two months ago, so by this point, I accept a head cold as being normal.
As long as the cold doesn't affect your performance too much I think any physical activity is good for a cold. I draw the line at a fever, but otherwise I will be out there on a board or my bike.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 10, 2004 11:32 AME, good to see you this mornin, although you didn't look too good.
Posted by: mexisurf at March 10, 2004 11:50 AMSurf should be fun again this afternoon!
E, good to see you this mornin, although you didn't look too good.
Posted by: mexisurf at March 10, 2004 11:50 AMSurf should be fun again this afternoon!
Never chimed in before but surfed VF's last night and saw said dark shredder mentioned last night pulling the same attitude in the water. I think its the same dude, but normally seen him out at midbeach or Sloat. Anyway, he pulled the same attitude with the local Kelly's crew and almost got a full on beat down. I don't know which attitude was worse, but the vibe wrecked my session. Nowhere to paddle to get away. I know this is all about niceness but sometimes I think people deserve to be taught some lessons. If this so called local crew likes to fight so much why don't they go to West Oakland and pick a fight? Is it just me or does it piss everyone else off as much to see a scrawny arse 165 lb derelict acting like he is some kind of heavy. Da Niceness might need to emloy Da Huie to do a little regulation because the vibe is quickly starting to spin out of control around here, and I don't see any of our local reps, Wise or any other, doing anything about it. Said individuals may surf marginally better but I've surfed all over the planet and have dealt with localism in all flavors. Shared lineups with Occy, Parko, Curren to name a few and never see them even speak. Bottom line they are not screaming at ghost surfers, or throwing temper tandrems like a teenagers on restrictions. If you are out of line than you get tightened up, but not until then. Bottom line is if you can hold your own and show respect you get it back. Even got ahoot from Occy at Dbah. When those rules don't apply than we have a problem that needs to be addressed. Am I wrong here or is it an us vs. them thing we have here? Question - Who is the best surfer in the water Answer - the dude that is the most stoked. Bad vibes need to find another home other than the ocean. Marin Potter circa '85 " No matter where I am in the world, when I'm in the ocean it feels like home."
Posted by: irienow at March 10, 2004 11:53 AMkdalle, yes, zicam is it. haven't heard about the smell thing. that's frightening. otherwise have heard raves. anyway, everyone's got their own remedy -- zn, echinacia, salt-water flush.
also, my last post was oddly worded, i didn't mean to sound sarcastic or anything :(
Posted by: robme at March 10, 2004 11:59 AMhey e
one small request -- how bout changing the title of the page from "e's surf report" to something more vauge -- so that all those shoulder vulture managers don't see it on your taskbar when you leave it open during the work day. I know I could go with the autohide, but that looks too obvious.
thanks
Posted by: worker at March 10, 2004 12:25 PMI wasn't going to chime in today but I saw one of my favorite quotes ever on this here site:
"Quetion - Who is the best surfer in the water Answer - the dude that is the most stoked" from irienow (first ever post)
Much of this was skipped over the other day about Mr. Angermanagement. I whole-heartedly agree with the post by Irienow. I have spent enough time at the beach and other locales to know many a face round here and who is a good surfer and who is still striving to be one. Either way, if you're an asshole, you're an asshole whether good surfer or not. If for that 1.5 hours in the water you go "Mr. Toughguy", that leaves 22.5 hours back on common ground that you are still and asshole. Funny how the dirt and pavement can change thing eh?
If a surfer, better or worse than I, is gleeming with stoke, it rubs off. So does the fucking stink eye. Throws the whole fucking thing off. Case in point: Saturday. Waves: marginal. Crowd: Minimal. Attitude: Piss-fucking-poor.
Monday: Waves: Good. Crowds: Large Attitude: Hoots and holla's from everyone to everyone.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 10, 2004 12:56 PMwell said kaiser and irie...life is too short for assholes.
As for the cold remedy, my wife and 2 yr old are sick with colds (Friend #1 I am in the same boat) and I have been stressing since I am due to leave for Fiji tomorrow....my head has been playing tricks on me...but I have been taking zinc and seem to have dodged this one. My go pick up some of that cold snap JIC.
Cheers all...hope the next week brings you all good waves!
Posted by: jdz at March 10, 2004 01:28 PMjdz - hope you get some solid namotu lefts! have fun and take some pics. sweeet.
Posted by: e at March 10, 2004 01:32 PMWith all the great weather and reports of immaculate waves I was jones'n for a surf ...so I packed the palaoa in the car before work and cut out to OB after a lunch meeting in the City yesterday. paddled out and cought some shoulder high mush bombs for about an hour or so drifted south with the outgoing tide flushing out of the gate like noah's flood, and had a nice enjoyable walk back up the beach checking the ladies trying to work on that early season tan in the afternoon sun...............look up in the parking lot and see my shit brown envoy right in the middle of a taped off "police line do not cross" area....fuuccck I say , don't need delays ...already played hooky form work and still have work to do .... a guy suiting up said there's a dead guy laying over there...i politely ask the officer if I might enter the forbidden zone to retrieve my vehicle .....what a concept ...try doing a deck change with a towel to small only ten feet from a dead guy with thousands of bystanders cops and at least two tv cameras buzzing all around. ...good thing I had been in the frigid water and experienced some shrinkage so the old viagra pole wasn't poking out of the towel ...one of the cops tried to interogate me about whether I witnessed any of the mayhem. Of course I responded like seargent schultz. ....gangs in san francisco....perhaps we should bring back dirty harry to get this shit under control
Posted by: big mig at March 10, 2004 01:34 PMMy sickness is finally gone; don’t mean I went out this morning though. I agree with irienow reminds me of a story I heard this past weekend, liiistennn.....
It was a drunken night, I met this guy at my buddy’s house, a coworker of his. They both are movers for "one big man truck" or whatever. Anyway the guy was a big fella, white guy, a little gangsta gangsta, but a friendly drunk and polite guy. We were cavorting and laughing, somehow surfing and localism came up and he told me about an experience he'd had in Santa Cruz a few weeks back.
So the guy, ill call him "Jed", and a friend of his who surfs went down to Santa Cruz as Jed wanted to give surfing a try. He told me about his water polo, swimming days in high school and college back in Ohio and how he feels really comfortable in the water. Anyway Jed rents a board for the day and gets out there, I’m figuring from what he explained he was out around inside-ish steamer lane or inside-ish middle peak. He was admittedly flailing but having a good time and trying his hardest. Long story short, as he’s paddling over a wave trying to avoid a guy b-lining towards him, he feels a slight bump on the back of his board as the guy passes. hoping he didn’t get in the guys way, or mess up his ride he graciously apologizes, but the guy starts yelling instantly at the top if his lungs, "KOOK" this, "GO HOME" that, and other such obscenities and degrading insults. Jed was taken aback, kind of shocked almost as the guy paddles away still squawking. Confused and humiliated he takes a second to contemplate, gathers himself, and paddles up to the guy. Jed dismounts his board so he feels "in his element" and proceeds to go under water, grabs the guys dangling leg, pulls him into the water so they are now "equals" and grabs the inside of the guys wetsuit hood. Being held up in the water by the inside of his hood and with a big, pink, meaty fist pointing right at his dome his attitude changed in the blink of an eye. The confident loud mouthed local had turned into a whimpering 8 year old in a matter of seconds. Jed spares his life because about 5 of the guy’s local buddies had also turned into Sally Field in “Not Without my Daughter”, pleading with Jed to not unleash his dangling, shaking fist upon their friends face. Jed lets go, had a few words out and awkwardly mounts his board and paddles away.
I was laughing throughout the story and tell him at the end that that’s pretty much the way most loud mouthed surfers are. And after the story I feel a little embarrassed about being a surfer.
The end
Posted by: bagel at March 10, 2004 01:35 PMI guess the moral of the story is if you have a big mouth in the water you had better be able to back it up or perhaps a big old corn-fed white boy will humiliate the crap out of you in front of your friends.
hmmm.....sounds like big ole jed probably grabbed flea or skinny by the hood.
Posted by: tom at March 10, 2004 01:47 PMHoly moly bagel, that was one of the funniest things I've read. The whole scene didn't take full affect and have me laughing until I got to the end and thought about it. cripes kinda shatters the hard to avoid surfers' sense of superiority, don't it??? still an effort ot hold the laughter back in the office. Thanks for the story
Posted by: ben at March 10, 2004 01:48 PMthat must have messed with those SC boys' heads something fierce. Think they're having nightmares of ol Jed with the Jaws soundtrack playing in the background?
Posted by: ben at March 10, 2004 01:55 PMI think we need to get ol Jed to set up a lifeguard stand with some of his good ol boys. I'd probably get my arse whipped 50% of the time, that why I don't talk smack, but there is a time when passivism needs to be backed up with action. I say surf smart, apologize if you are in the wrong, but hold your ground if some trust fund punk is in your face. The number of people out surfing that get pissed off by these attitudes are much greater than those dishing it out, so why doesn't anybody say anything? I hate talking about this crap when I should be talking about getting pitted, but I hate being pushed around by punks and having my surf session wrecked by these kooks even more. Help a brother out if you see this going down, especially if you can deliver the beat down like your boy Jed. The more we let them get away with it the more it is going to spread. I don't plan on living anywhere else and I don't plan on listening to "Kook" Faggot" and "Transplant" everytime I want a wave. Sorry for the bad vibes but I'm getting over it. Can a brother just get his irie now?
Posted by: irienow at March 10, 2004 01:57 PMman, I'm stoked I haven't run into any such yelling/namecalling (sounds like 3rd grade, no?). I'd really be bummed. Brother irie, get that irie on!
Posted by: ben at March 10, 2004 02:15 PMDid anyone get any pics from Sunday afternoon or Monday Morning??
Posted by: KT at March 10, 2004 02:18 PMbefore we hire good ol' boys to lifeguard at localized breaks...
I saw a great Brazilian documentary about vigilante justice gone awry. Basically it's the story of two kids from the same favela in Recife who react to the violence there in different ways. One starts a political vocal hip-hop group that is now popular and powerful. The other buys a gun and kills 40 of the drug dealers and gangsters that have been terrorizing the neighborhood. He eventually gets caught and sentenced to life in prison. Thousands of his neighbors sign a petition to get him released from prison. But... no go. I don't see a good way to differentiate between senseless murder and murder to stop senseless murder. Same with bad vibes and bad vibes to stop bad vibes.
the documentary is called "The rap of the little prince against the wicked souls"
Posted by: otra onda at March 10, 2004 02:48 PMgotta love it when the Jeds of the world right the wrongheadedness by not knowing they're supposed to be intimidated or shamed...i would've been bummed had that story ended with the kid getting pummeled though. like yesterday's Shatting Surfer, it's another bad precedent.
one little grin goes an unfreakingbelievably long way.
Posted by: friendly at March 10, 2004 02:59 PMfirstly, thanks to e! so fun to read your report and everyone's posts thru the day as i'm stuck in my office in the mission wishing i was home at the beach.
but i also wanted to say "right on!" to otra onda. i know what a bummer folks with bad attitudes can be, especially super agro ones, but i always find it a fun game to be SO nice to those people they have to chill out.
have a great day everyone, it's another ridiculously nice one!
Posted by: j.my at March 10, 2004 03:17 PMj.my!!! what's a pretty thing like you doing in a place like this?? well said...
...and i hope the guitar is holding together. :)
Posted by: friendly at March 10, 2004 03:25 PMHow long can I keep this up?

Posted by: Kaiser at March 10, 2004 03:55 PMoh yes everyone, dont get me wrong, i dont condone the violence that Jed used. hes just that type of guy, and i just found it to be a funny anicdote and fitting to the topic of discussion. glad you liked the story though i havent put that much energy into writing since high school. took me like an hour to put that one together felt good. i have yet to put any energy into correct spelling though.
that gang shit at ob is seriously gnarly and a crazy story from big mig, freaky. ocean beach
Posted by: bagel at March 10, 2004 04:05 PMKaiser- FWIW the original quote is "The best surfer is the one having the most fun." It's attributed to Mike Doyle but I suspect it goes frther back than that, probably to the ancient polynesians.
Posted by: kdalle at March 10, 2004 04:17 PMI must say, I'm a little conflicted. I don't like the bad vibe guys and agree that they can ruin a session. but......if you don't know how to surf you should not be at the lane. The knowledgeable surfer friend of Jeb should have informed if of such.
Of course, I love the part about the bad vibe guy getting pulled into the water with the water polo guy.
Two wrongs don't make a right. Jeb should be a Cowells and should let Jeb know in a better way that he shouldn't be there.
My views are that out in the water is kind of like a primitive place. Modern societies rules don't really mean a lot in the water. It's more like a primitive society. The pecking order seems to work. If there were'nt people getting agro out there at kooks, the place would be overrun and you'd be dodging people on every wave. I personally don't yell at people, it's not my way or personality. I also don't stop others from yelling at people. I know in the end, I benifit from it, even if it does ruin my session sometimes. The primitive pecking order seems to work...you got the niceness guys and the agro guys and everyone in between. Theres my 2cents.
Posted by: sam at March 10, 2004 04:20 PMwind seems to be backing off, but cams are showing a lot of lump & whitewater.
is anyone with a closer perspective able/willing to comment on how the sunset session is looking for tonight?
Posted by: loon at March 10, 2004 04:28 PMif you're bored at work today, check out the last post from yesterday, posted late by BVB.
Posted by: wrybread at March 10, 2004 04:37 PMJust surf. Mind your own business. If it is too crowded at one spot, move down the beach. If someone assualts you, have the Park Rangers arrest him. It's that simple.
BVB is an bullying thug. Guarantee he would not talk like that to someone bigger than himself. What comes around goes around and he'll get what he deserves. We should not forget and move on.
Posted by: at March 10, 2004 04:58 PMhttp://www.mtbireland.com/dodge.html
something else if your bored at work...its no whack the penguin but not bad
Posted by: bagel at March 10, 2004 05:03 PMbagel-
Posted by: otra onda at March 10, 2004 05:21 PMno troubles with your storytelling, keep em coming.
thanks otra onda! much obliged
ok, just recovering from flem-bot taking over my body.
hack .cough..
i was sick over the weekend and missed it. soooo bummed. i had to go out on monday and try out the new stick. got some good waves and tried again yesterday.
board works well, needs more testing... it's the first time i have been on a shape that I have wanted to be on in 2 years! its really responsive, i have a feeling its going to be a fun board. lots of drive. got one memorable wave yesterday.. drop in on this nice right, couple trim pumps, bottom turn and set my direction up to the lip, crank it off the top, back down, then a couple more pumps, and head back up to the lip which is mushing out, try to do that 360 thing (where you crank it up the lip past vert and float the foam back down as you continue your spin..) anyway. didn't make it... didn't compress my legs enough.. but regardless. fun stuff. so thats the report on the bobomalolo. crossing my fingers for a DP tomorrow.
i'm still for a niceness "hoot" it will light the lineup with niceness... it will offer niceness from one end of the beach to the other... like the signal fires in LOTR Return of the King...
here are my first ideas...
1. "oouup oouup oouup" has to be three oouup's!
2. "yiddle diddle" more emphasis on the yiddle!
3. "hoooo de hoooo" spoken / hooted fast.
aight. remember to smile and be thankful for the ability to surf, travel, live and be here now.
Posted by: elias at March 10, 2004 06:46 PMYou think BVB wouldn't talk trash to someone bigger than him?
BVB is no thug, you have no idea who he is, and you are a coward.
Looks like windswell and probably winds till the weekend.
Posted by: blakestah at March 10, 2004 10:12 PMLate post. How many guys get wacked before we get some enforcement on the beach? Every time I surf I pick up litter on the beach (especially the glass). Every time I come back there's more. After a warm evening - LOTS more. Why pass another pathetic regulation like no fires when people just ignore them and the park doesn't enforce any of them? Maybe they're scared of getting wacked too. Sorry to vent, but I know quite a few women who pick up on the sunny day gangsta vibe at OB and don't hang out there because of it. Who would you rather see - betty's like the posts, or yo yo bra? It comes down to respect, which these guys lack. By the way, gnarly insides lately. Double wave height bounces, spits, sand dredge, heavy currents. Amazing having to do a holddown count on a 4 foot wave.
Posted by: banjo at March 10, 2004 10:24 PMThat last post from Banjo - hit a chord with me, mainly about the trash and other shit we have to walk through at our beaches - it's obvious that it's not surfers dropping all this shit - we naturally have too much respect for our beaches - and I think the gangsta shit is going to get out of control at OB this summer - especially at VFers where it seems that all winter on any warm day there have been bad asses in the parking lot - they do seem to leave all of us alone, actually curious I think of our little ventures out into the big blue - but I don't want to see any of our "clan" get caught in the glock crossfire.
bn
Posted by: brent at March 11, 2004 09:43 AMThat burly sinus cold going around is evil, know a bunch o folk who have had incuding myself, and it lingers...on and on. Caught a few seshs of the goodness these last few days, surprised by the shooting, it reminds me of a T-shirt I saw in some surf flick that had a shortboard stick figure and a longboard stickfigure holding hands caption reading "why can't we all just get along?" The water has been beautiful lately, supergreen backlit in the eves...not too bad.
Posted by: Icculous at March 14, 2004 10:07 PMI thought I would say hi as you all seem like a relaxed crew so "hi"... I was looking for hippie shacks and I found you guys sorry to hear that your all sick I hope that you all get well soon and that you get to blow some wicked snot in the OB shorebreak.
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