E's Surf Report

the mystery empty post... sunny, warm, 3-4 feet on the northshore with light trades. Flat in town. Another WNW swell is due later today/Fri. I think it has been warmer in SF the past couple days than here on Oahu... we've had cold spell.. low 60's at night... brrr.

Yo-

What was up with all the whining yesterday? We had some real good surf and great vibes this weekend and week. Shouldnt that be enough? It is for me. Get out there and surf. Its not a spectator sport!(Bob WISE) Talking about surfing is not as fun as surfing! HIT IT or BEAT IT!

pez

didn't get the DP sesh i was looking for, made it to the beach around 8, ran around with the dog for an hour, then up to VFers, put in for an hour or so. fun little nuggets out there. get on it before the wind does!

brent and banjo's posts late yesterday were good food for thought. I think it's important that everyone have access to beautiful and inspiring spots like our coast... but we've got some serious issues to address culturally--esp. in terms of schools/role models, our relationships with the world around us and what we show/teach our kids. The general lack of respect for wilderness that banjo and brent mentioned is such a deeply rooted problem in our society, it touches on so very many topics. Who is saying, "hey, it's a beaut day, lets go to the beach," and then leaves their trash?! Who sees our shared wild places as a mall hang-out with sun? Such a divergent ideology from what I'm sure is prevalent with the niceness crew and the "clan" in general... it's hard to begin to adress a problem like this...

these things set my mind to stressful wanderings. If anyone has book recs on dealing with these cultural/ideological issues I'd aprreciate hearing about them. I'll toss out Leopold's "Sand County Almanac" and Orr's "Environmental Literacy" as great reads. Just started "The Spell of the Sensuous" (Abram?) and it looks full of potential.

Thank goodness for niceness :)

Sloat...7:30-9:30...fun,fun,fun...5 days in a row...I'm beat.

Two comments on the trash: 1) There have always been idiots that go to the beach on a warm day but often the bins get full and the clever gulls and crows yank it out for a nosh. 2) The Rangers seem far more interested in spotting expired registrations to bust people and search their cars than enforcing littering laws.

those sean brady photos are NJ?! i was sure they were OB. nice.

here's my 2.

it's unfortunate that our beaches end up as they do, especially here in SF. though it's not just here, it everywhere, the mountains, the forests... people just don't know how to pick up after themselves.

all of my life has been spent here in california, 28 years, not that much in the big picture. Things are just getting worse. i'm sure anyone who was at the beach here back then can attest to that. i can attest to the mountains where i grew up as a lot dirtier. its sad.

i think that these problems stem from greater problems with how we as the human race here in america are progressing... people are being encouraged to disconnect from the world around them, TV, media, etc.. people are accustomed to getting picked up after. people are babied throughout their lives, never "thinking" about the ramifications for their actions.. look at GW. ha!

unfortunately we can't force people to change. we have to impress and lead by example. it is imperative that we teach our children and peers the importance of the natural world. its imperative that we teach them respect, for all things, human, and not human.

this means picking up peoples trash when you go to the beach, mountain, river... it means confronting people that are leaving their trash and asking them politely to pick up their detritus. it means taking ownership in a way and being a steward of our land.

the first rule of hiking in the backcountry that my dad taught me a long time ago is to: leave it cleaner than when you arrived. that should be the rule for everywhere.

FINALLY got out today after slobbering over you guys' reports the last few days.... sunday and monday i was surfing mediocre waves in the pismo area, tuesday i was travelling, and yesterday i had no real excuse for not surfing other than laziness. sooo, today was awesome in the chalet/wise area, head high and hollow. not too big but pretty consistnent and rampy. ragnar was ripping. my last wave was easily my best of the session, a late drop to in-and-out that made my day. i'm still amped from it. blakestah is claiming this weekend will be fun as well. stoked!

nice one elias.. wise words.

i picked up one bottle and one glock on my way in from the water this morning. ha ha jk about the gun

fun this morning, good to paddle out with the one Christian and meet his girl Ana. out there. both charging. first wave out the kid gets a dry backside tube, insane. i know, 5 days seems to be taking its toll but i love this shit. hopefully i can get out of here early today. yay!

cheers elias (I was thinking maybe I'd gone off the deep end with that post), cheers to everyone who got up earlier than I did today and scored, and cheers to e on a good chat with a cutie (you'll get the digits next time)! I was grinning for a good hour straight yesterday after finally meeting (after months!) the beautiful personal trainer/dancer at my gym. Even better news: my friend who I had mentioned was in the hospital in India with malaria is doing great and in Oz after swinging back through Thailand and Vietnam. She'll be back in Cali in under two months, may crash in SF for two months, and I can't wait to hear some serious tales!

Is it really gonna be good thru this weekend? wow :)

e and all....nice work scoring this a.m.

elias and ben...right on, brothers!! lead by example is the only way...slow as it may be.

as for the weekend....it's guaranteed to be off da hook as i'll be out of town all weekend long! ; )

ck thanks for taking off to guarantee us some good surf. i know that drill all too well...in my case i tell people straight up when they invite me on a surf trip: "you sure you wanna? cause we're gonna get skunked..." one of these times i'll break the curse...

vfers: fun this morning, a bit like magic monday but not as makeable or *quite* as surrealistically crystalline. also the lemming factor was in full effect (myself a major propagator) as we all seemed to be condensed into one tight pack, collisions and near-collisions all around. in fast & tight OB it's hard to make your way around people... so props to E for finding his own space.

Elias, when I was growing up, back in the 60's and 70's there was a very active anti-litter
effort -- I think it was started by LBJ's wife Ladybird. I'm sure you've heard part of the
tag line "Keep America Beautiful". It had this really effective public service tv
advertisement that featured an American Indian, in headdress, standing for example on the
side of a superhighway watching the cars go by. The music was like "America the Beautiful"
or something. Anyway, at the end of the ad, someone throws trash basically at the Indian's
feet, and he turns and walks away, with the camera zooming in on a tear running down his cheek.
Does anyone else remember that? Kinda cheesy by today's sophisticated standards, but I was only
5 or so at the time and I definitely got the "don't litter" religion from that one ad. (I don't
know how the Sioux and Cherokee felt about it. I think it was pulled because it wasn't
considered PC.)

tom curren - bottom turn

i love this artists' eye for the femalian form

Did it glass off last night again? I heard it did.

I got out at VF-RollingOn-Dubs this morning. I know Paul B likes those conditions as I saw him killin it as usual. Me: I dorked like 80% of my waves, pulled the rip cord and headed in. I kept trying to paddle south of the pack but then I was right back in it. Whatever, I sucked today. Got thrown from the lip at least 4 times with my board aimed directly at my sack each time. Bounced off the bottom twice. Farq.

Beautiful morning though. WCT is back on in OZ. Round 4 should start in like 30 minutes.

i surfed, i washed my car, i'm going to have some lunch now and then i'm going to go surf again after the tide turns. then i'm going to have some beer out in the big city tonight.

monday i picked up trash at the beach but last night i did not.

Paddled out at Sloat to join Doof. Middle looked bigger and more consistant but I have to let him choose it sometimes. Caught several fun ones then Kdalle paddled over to where I was and I knew it was time to head in as I wouldn't get any more ;)

On the trash thing, the crows and gulls and homeless help spread the overflowing cans.

Also, if you live in one of the marginalized areas of the City, it may not occur to you not to litter. It is already trashed so what is one more beer can.

Hi "keep america beatiful"--dug the anecdote. Isn't it interesting when you can trace lessons learned back to specific, often very simple lessons? I think in this case such small moments can be so eye opening because the lesson is right in line with what any open-minded child can pick up on--just being sensible in regard to your home and neighbors. It's got to be tough on kids now with such a gnarly ammount of essentially anti-healthy-world media--the 'want to go explore the great outdoors?--buy a jeep' or 'easier is better' advertising. Videogames instead of playing some bball or going for a surf. G fricken Bush. Kids are so inundated with crap. Seems that in general we don't give them much healthy input to work with. BUT, kids are ridiculously smart/perceptive,given enough info to sort through. all it takes is giving them the chance to see something else, some redwoods or meteor showers and the opportunity to think beyond the negative influences/media. I've seen it happen and it's beautiful. I'm hopeful...gonna be interesting to keep watching trends in at-large conciousness, no?

tom....that sounds like a near perfect day. enjoy....while those of us confined to cubes for the arvo turn green with envy! ; )

e,

On the curren pic . . . read the current issue of Surfer mag that has the interview with him in it. Seems like he's at a better place than he has been in years. I go back and forth on his influence on surf. Style-wise every pro try's to incorporate his silky smoothness. He showed the way on forging a life of free-surfing and making a living at it. However, seems to be forever battling deamons of some sort. But it seems like music is bringing him some joy and focus. Hopefully, he's a peace with himself.

d loose - i'm psyched to check that out. I'm always the last person to receive all the mags in the mail. I think the outer sunset mailman might be a stony surfer who pilfers my mags for a few days before delivering them. hmmmm..

curren.. an enigma.. seems like he throws out the good vibes though.. i can't really imagine him yelling at someone in the lineup or throwing stink-eye..

d loose--on curren, a buddy and I were going to move into his (shhweeet) pad near the SB Ranch and just inland from a great, hard to access point break, but at the last moment he decided to move back in with his family and we got bounced. My buddy (stylish surfer and unreal musician--goodonya Miles!) uh, complained, and ended up moving in with the family! Moved out when he couldn't deal with the super unpleasant vibe within the family--lotsa disputes and discord. Bummer. Hopefully they're all cool now? Not sure if he's still got the board Curren gave him (it was a bit small and technical for him--he's 6'5").

Wonder where I put my Searching for Tom Curren vid, kinda want to bust it out tonight.

Searching for Tom Curren -- that scene at stormy Pipe (?) where sound track is playing I think bag pipes and some simple drums -- love it!

Is that pipeline?! With the heavy drums and pipes and they've laid gouging cutties and top turns--bam bam bam-- one on top of the other? I always thought it was Ireland :) oops. yeah, that is one sick clip, gets me so amped. Love bagpipes.

Curren defined surfing at the dawn of the thruster era. He had a deeper influence on surfing style than anyone in decades before or after him, perhaps since Dora.

And he has ripped DOH OB on a shortboard.

Who's Tom Curren and did they ever find him?

yo bbr,
you were in the pismo area earlier this week? Have you (or anyone else) been to a break called Abalones in the Cayacos area North of San Luis Obispo?

I am heading to Santa Barbara soon and thought Abalones would be a great place to stop and stretch out the arms on the way down. I am not familiar with the area though- any suggestions or comments about that break?

Aside- I think kdalle hit it on the head with his morning report “Sloat….7:30-9:30…..fun,fun,fun”

Cheers,
Alex

Currens segment in Litmus is pretty sick too..my hero..saw him and occy back in the day at the op pro before the riot broke out and a few other times, i cant remember ever seeing better surfing..good times

I've seen Curren a few times and surfed with him once. The move that always blew me away was his double bottom turn. He'd drop in and just before he got to the bottom he'd make one pump turn and before he flattened out he'd do a second turn up the face. It's common place now but he was the first to do it as a regular part of his arsenal as far as I know

FWIW, my pantheon for today:

Performance surfing: Duke Kahanamoku ('course), Phil Edwards (style, trim, power), David Nuuwiha (grace, noseriding), Wayne Lynch (invented vertical surfing as we know it. Go watch "Evolution". I saw it in a gymnasium when it first toured and it was a revelation), George Greenough (wave position, tube riding), Joey Cabell (speed, speed, speed), Gerry Lopez (master tuberider), Larry Bertleman (radical cutbacks), Tom Curren (style and flow), Kelly Slater (all around phenom).

Big wave: Jose Angel (guts), Greg Noll (guts), Darrick Doerner (guts), Brock Little (guts. I saw his tuberide in the Eddie....unreal), Laird Hamilton (otherwordly guts and "power surfing").

There's a lot more that I'm sure you all can add.

BTW, Curren caught a couple, got caught inside and gave up and bellied in at OB...'course! He also bailed on his show at Java Beach while he was here. Walked in, looked around, walked out, played at Mission Rock (pre-fire).

yay!

not to condone any civil disobedience.

Surf Report Circa 1986 says that "Abalones needs a large (7'+) South to work. Rights break hallow on a series of reefs best on high tide. Crowds do not do well here due to tight take-off zone."

This may be the same break that I heard called Heart-attacks that if there are more than a few people out, you are expected to wait on shore till they are done.

I heard that one about 15 years ago though on the way back from Jalama.

alex - cayucos & abs are better on souths though a big NWester might work. try the beachbreaks in cambria. lots of punch. or the south end of cayucos. studio dr. if the surf isn't working go to the "taco temple" midway between cayucos and morro bay. good eats.

peace.

abs is a different wave, the other, we will leave to your imagination...

cool curren thread.

i think i may have described this before but.. i saw curren play guitar down in santa cruz a few months ago. Between songs he would stutter and mumble and ramble like we've all seen/heard.. pretty funny.. but when he started singing he came across as totally resolute and powerful. His voice and natural sense of flow/melody reminded me of his surfing and was really uplifting and inspiring. Before the show i saw him talking with this little 8 yr old girl that probably had no idea who he was. He then dedicated this happy/sweet song to her and it was heartwarming and made everybody smile. She was beaming from her seat. it was great. He also sang a few bible-inspired tunes. and spewed some jesus-heavy speak a few times. soo.. i think he's pretty religious?

I also travelled for a while with this guy from Narabeen who is a ridiculous surfer and friends with Chris Davidson and Ozzie Wright and some other narabeeners. He talked about chilling with Curren a few times during contests and actually said that he sold curren a sack of ganj and then chilled while TC jammed on guitar with a bunch of other people. Don't know if it's true but i'd like to believe.

Searching for Tom Curren is obviously one of the best displays of his surfing, but he also has a good segment in 5th symphony document and also Lost across america, where he surfs rincon with a hoody and just stylez like none other. stalling and ducking into glassy micro-barrel after glassy micro-barrel.. I think he caught about 6 separate barrels on one wave.

he's the man.

shit.. back to work!

anybody check the beach recently?

elias, My memory was a bit fogged, Heart attacks is another spot, and not even called that. No need to speak further. Sounds like you know that stretch of coast well.

Man, I was down in Hell-A during the OP riot... all the negative vibe stuff you all are talking about lately in the City is reminding me of living down there.

On a positive note, nice surf history stuff today, and Kaiser you positively have to do your magic one more time.

the cayucos reefs and cambria area are typically better on souths, like elias said. i surfed studios on monday, it's kinda fun but nothing really special. when the winds are offshore and there's a mixed up swell it can get really good. if i were you i'd check the various spots in montaño de oro or the area between cambria and big sur... lots of mysto spots in there. here's one:

love that coast man. soo many possiblities. everytime i get in those waters, it's all smiles.

cheers all.

For Dano...

Glass off anyone?

When I moved into my first off-campus abode, I drove down to OC to pick up furniture and drove it back in my Mom's Station wagon. Then two days later drove the station wagon back down Bought my first Surfboard (a BC 9 foot longboard), then headed back up the coast. I planned to surf my way up. Left around 10 at night and slept in my car in Santa Barbara. Woke up at dawn, started eating Mushrooms and smoking and drove up the coast. I surfed Cayucos around noon with no wetsuit and frying. It took me 24 hours to get back to Berkeley. Glad I didn't try BBR's spot in my altered state and lack of ability.

wow, Slater is en fuego at Snapper right now!

rad friend #1

i can see the cancer forming on that girls back allready..what the hell am i saying?

kinda looks like the summertime fog wind just cruised into town. any confirmations?

Just back - crazy, e, I was thinking "Lion of Judah" while I was in the water (hadn't read your report yet). Does anyone lay claim to that title? Not that crazy, I guess, seeing as how I rocked the N Judah down to the strand, the 7'2" riding shotgun.

Kind of looking like spring in the water - waves coming in, but sloshy, verging on hacked. The death-mist was on it outside. That said, I had a better session than I did on any of the all-time days we've had in the last week.

BVB was out there steering his bright red aircraft-carrier onto any wave he desired, as usual. Perhaps he is the lion of Judah. I waved to him, and he looked at me like, do I know you? I wonder if a lot more people are hailing him since his interview. I almost paddled over and promised him I would burn my Ben Davis pants.

thanks for the tips on the cayucos area guys. and thanks also for the heads up on the mexi-grinds!

Pez -
Word about the whining. What's a little gunplay in the VFW lot, some stink-mouth in the lineup and a spot of shameless human faeces on the sand when we are being blessed with November in March?

wait, you were booming at an unfamiliar break on the first day with your first surfboard?

nice!

pathetic!

I love anonymous derogatory posts like that last one. A true heckler in the shadows.

Ben- That was a vision quest I took in my early twenties. I had learned to surf at San O over the summer, and was going to start surfing up here so I needed a Stick. So any spot I surfed was going to be unfamiliar. I did have a copy of Bank Wright's book though so at least I wasn't going to paddle out at Hazards.

I started eatin mushrooms when I woke up, and I just kept eating them, so I had a long mellow trip instead of a shorter heavier one. It was no big deal really, but I didn't have a suit, and I was a little concerned that I would stay out too long and get too cold. As it was conditions weren't great that day so I only surfed that one spot.

The drive up was nice though.

Footbag?
C'mon now, that's just yuppied-up hacky-sack innit? great site none the less.

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