user-friendly emptiness
Nobody around this morning 'cept Lerm, Lewis and I. Conditions significantly cleaner and more organized than yesterday morning. Nothing too large or critical on offer, but quite a few modest chunks rolled through. When i first paddled out i watched Lewis catch about 15 rides in 5 minutes. I was like, "damn, there are definitely waves to be ridden!" Sure enough a steady stream of shoulder/head-high squirty waves coursed through. It felt good to stroke into then take-off on well-shaped, glassy lil' nugs. The potential for perfomance surfing existed as well. Lip flicks and floaters, pumping and cruising. whatever. A sporatic longer-period groundswell was evident too?? as a solid 5 wave set would lope in every 10 minutes or so.
It also seems that our friends the pelicans are back in force. I watched many formations of em' soar lazily above unbroken wave faces.
Warm, sunny skies - glassy, easy waves - absolutely nobody out except a few friends - shit.. I'm not complaining. It could, however, mark the final hoorah of this two week stretch of immaculate weather/waves?? but now that i look at the weather forecast it might be niiice all weekend...
Blakestah's calling for a groundswell this weekend. starting late friday. Surfpulse also mentions a swell increase but says it'll be more local swell, less groundswell.. hmmm..
Koby Abberton might be going to jail.. seems that his brother killed someone and Koby is accused of helping to cover it up.. looks like he might get seriously covered up in this pic.
i'm goin down to SD gonna have myself a time
Posted by: j at March 18, 2004 10:25 AMi'm goin down to SD gonna leave my woes behind
Facless surfer poaching your steeps
Late afternoon conditions where ever so sweet
Paddle out to a 3 to 5 peak, stare down vibe from some alpha geek. What eva brah, I'll let my surfing speak
snag a righthand bomb from the pack
8 foot 6 backside attack
Alpha geek is getting pissed out of position to many waves missed
late drop, lined up left, beautiful canvas, thankful for being deft
Off the bottom, hit the lip, roundhouse cutty to head dip
Thanks to all the niceness peeps, for sharing the sandbar at the end of your street
e, the books going in the mail today. peace
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 18, 2004 10:43 AMyesterday arvo seshie was in full effect...saw many of the locals at the neighborhood break...saw Alex Martins, who is BACK in action and only a little sore...saw some barrelage...not surprised people aren't out this morning, probably waiting for the arvo seshie
Posted by: blakestah at March 18, 2004 10:44 AMi have a hunch
ill enjoy my 2 hour lunch
Posted by: bagel at March 18, 2004 10:51 AMwow, wheres coby abberton from?
Will an evening seesion possible again today or are we going to see onshores?
Posted by: d_looose at March 18, 2004 10:52 AMAnyone who tells you they really understand the winds around here, please stand up.......
Posted by: blakestah at March 18, 2004 10:59 AMBased on past days, it's been calm/glassy through sunset. But winds are often surprising
OB: another day to hit it! Sunny and glassy with bumps. Way inside seems rather crossed up and making little sneaky lumps even at high tide. At least it was earlier. Seeing shouldery knee to head peaks, a few steady, many also are, or were, '"fools' peaks"..you see a shoulder going right...right...right...paddle to it and it's gone and you get nailed by a left. Then the so called consistent peak is going right again, then left, then right...faaark! Fortunately for you the fools' peaks seem to be chilling out... so are overall conditions...less peaks to pick now, mellowing but at it looks more consistent. Not much power except confirm e's ambush sets every 10-15 minutes or so. Slightly bigger, close together, will try to close out on your head. Dodging fishing lines is also the name of the game. Enjoy!
Shoutout to neighbor for wowzer over-the-falls, board and body parts in all directions extravaganza this am. Spectacular!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 18, 2004 11:04 AMI am calling the final afternoon session of this windless realm tonight. Weather always seems to change for the weekend, just to shaft the cube dwellers such as myself. I hope I am wrong but I am definately going out afterwork today if it stays calm. Ditched work yesterday, dropped wife off at airport for her trip to Maui, punk. Went and surfed VFW's right when the tide was heading out yesterday, was small wave perfection. Caught so many waves I lost count. Everyone out was happy and there were good vibes everywhere. Must have been the luck of the irish.
Posted by: barney at March 18, 2004 11:05 AMkoby is from maroubra, a southside sydney beach ghetto. Home of the infamous 'bra boys, who are the closest thing oz has to da hui. Except possibly tougher and more criminal, as strange as that sounds. Depending upon who you talk to, the bra boys are either misunderstood nice guys or an actual criminal syndicate. Either way, they grow up rough, putting hours a day into surfing and hours a day into street-fight training.
I hung out and traveled with two bra boys in indo last summer. Judging by appearance they were scary characters -- ripped, tatted, knife scarred. One was a professional kick boxer and the other was a recovering alchoholic. Good mates of Koby -- they were staying with him at Lakey's before we went to g-land. Ben and Frog, despite appearances, were the nicest, most outgoing, mellowest guys imaginable. It was fun to paddle out with them at speedies and see them strike fear in the hearts of all the shoulder hopping brazos.
But from what I heard, they were only mellow because they were "on holiday." Back in maroubra those two were serious business. Ben, the kickboxer, had some back problems. I asked him what from... turns out that at 12 years old he was jumped by a gang of 15 - 20 guys from a rival gang. Beaten with baseball bats, beaten with fists, stabbed... He did a few months in the hospital with "almost every bone broken" and then got out in time to retaliate with the bra boys in tow. He didn't really go into details, but mentioned that it wasn't as much fun as he thought to "beat people until they lost eyes and couldn't walk again and stuff."
Frog, for his part, had lost his mellow holiday demeanor the week before g-land. When people see the "bra boys" tats across the back, they want to see how tough those guys actually are. A group of jujitsu brazillians had cornered him infront of his kuta losmen as he was changing after a surf. Apparently he took 4 of these brazos on while wearing a towel. Frog finished the fight naked and tried to use holds so he didn't really hurt anyone and deal with repurcussions.
Hopefully they'll come to SF some time so I can turn them loose at dead's. That would be amusing.
Posted by: lewis at March 18, 2004 11:14 AMgreat, now i am torn..2 hour lunch or leave at 5?
i relate to barney's logic, this shit could be over any minute..there was a weird 15 minute fog that cruised through the outer richmond this morning around 8:45-9ish. does that mean change is in the air?
Posted by: bagel at March 18, 2004 11:21 AMI posted an open room in our house here on E's and it worked -- we got Jay to move in. Now the in-law downstairs is open, with it's ridicously sick check-the-surf-from-bed ocean view...
Thanks E for the use of the blog, and nice work on all those cruisy rights this morning.
Here's the posting:
In-Law unit with gorgeous ocean views, Outer Richmond. This studio space is large, bright, and fully equipped with a full size kitchen, private bathroom, and two closets. It also has a large private deck and enclosed sun-room. Carpeted, with separate entrance through side door.
The unit is in the bottom story of a free-standing home. You’ll share washer/dryer, driveway, and backyard with 3 guys who live upstairs in the main house. We’re all late twenties / early thirties, professional, surfers and skaters, mellow home life.
The in-law has enough privacy to totally have your own scene… But it would also be cool to move someone in who can be part of our friend group, and maybe shoot a game of pool or have a beer with us upstairs.
The neighborhood: Six blocks from Ocean Beach, 3 from Golden Gate Park, 4 from Sutro Park, 3 from Land’s End. Good for someone who wants the city life without giving up the beach and parks. Easy access to bus lines, good restaurants and the balboa theatre down the street, plenty of street parking, nice neighbors, and as I mentioned the view is insane. If you like watching the sunset or checking the surf from bed, this place would make you very happy.
Price is $1100 a month which includes some utilities – power, water/gas. Move in April 1 or after. If price is an issue there is a chance that the landlord will come down if you ask nicely.
Please e-mail me about yourself, and we’ll try to set up a time to come and check it out.
thanks niceness crew, spread the word!!!
Posted by: lewis at March 18, 2004 11:37 AMoh, for the in-law, my email is lewis at discoversurfing.com
Posted by: lewis at March 18, 2004 11:39 AMnever really heard about the bra boy's so that was a fun read that sparked my interest.
i did a search on google and there is lot's of stuff.
turns out koby has two brothers who rip too.....jai is the one who shot someone. before you jump to conclusions, the deceased was a notorious gang banger and confirmed and admitted hit man for a rival gang. not that there is any justification or anything.
oh yeah...bra boys hate spongers or "lids"
supposedly koby earns $300k per year U.S. so it is doubtful he's gonna do time and is out on bail so he can pursue his surf career.
Posted by: tom at March 18, 2004 11:47 AMoh here is the stour from sydney newspapers..
http://www.heraldsun.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,5478,8908696%255E661,00.html
Posted by: tom at March 18, 2004 11:51 AMlewis thanx for the coby info..shits craazy..never heard of anything like that
sounds like an awesome deal on the in-law too i guess as long as the bra boys dont pay any visits
im opting for the 2 hour lunch see yous in the water
Posted by: bagel at March 18, 2004 11:52 AMbagel: yeah I was out in that fog..thick stuff for a while. Judging from current conditions my 2 cents is 2 hour lunch - but since I'm working here all aft, will update around 4.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 18, 2004 11:57 AMPretty fun this a.m. for such tiny surf.
The real highlight was the sighting of the elusive fogbow. A bank moved in from the south and eventually a spot cleared right over us. It seemed almost within reach but there it was. Kinda like a rainbow but, um, foggier.
Posted by: kdalle at March 18, 2004 12:14 PMfrom the surfrider cleanwater classic in Westport Washington.
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Posted by: e at March 18, 2004 12:30 PMbra boys documentary
here
Posted by: lerm at March 18, 2004 01:30 PMaw man....s.s., i was worried you were going to say that. i saw sloat en route to the airport at 6:45am and started dreaming of the sunset...shhhh, little winds...
but also: welcome back! i saw your post earlier in the week about laying claim to the dorkiest session ever. cracked me up, as i was coming back from the WUSSIEST session ever in mendo...felt like a total lame-o. anyway: it's good to hear you're back out there. keep on it. i'll be at kelly's in the AM, conditions cooperating...
ps: sweet longboarder.
Posted by: friendly at March 18, 2004 01:30 PMLate yesterday afternoon, somewhere west of The Great Highway: a few fun, short little peaks that started to back off as the tide came up.
Posted by: Jimmie at March 18, 2004 01:50 PMI saw the biggest sealion EVER out there. Now, I know these are wild animals, but I've never been nervous around them until I saw THIS guy cruise past me - he was EMORMOUS! I just sat real still and kept thinking, "I'm not your new girlfriend, I'm not your new girlfriend, I'm not your new girlfriend ..."
ha! that's funny Jimmie..
Posted by: e at March 18, 2004 02:06 PMahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh westport!! the site of my 2nd ever attempt to surf. looks like the cove/half moon bay working there, others pics look like could be the groins, but tough to tell w/o seeing the groins.
Posted by: j at March 18, 2004 02:24 PMNY perfection from 3/11
http://newyorksurf.com/gallery/311/311-1.htm
Posted by: at March 18, 2004 02:42 PMhot damn!
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Posted by: e at March 18, 2004 02:44 PMholy lord that looks heavy..thats about what ob looked like at lunch but about one 16th the size, none of the wind, no brown water, and probably 100 times warmer, other than that, dead on. actually nothing to write home about, very small, practicaly too small..probably better in the middle but time was not on my side. im still leaving at 5 though. i mean shit how the f can i work in these conditions?
Posted by: bagel at March 18, 2004 03:00 PMsomeone posted this on craigslist.. (it's from a few weeks ago)
I was at Ocean Beach today next to the City Zoo for the first time. I had just arrived and started walking and met a woman and sat and talked with her for a little while. She was kinda cute and smart and made me laugh. We found out we were both from the Northwest and I said, "I love San Francisco, what a crazy place--never a dull moment." Just then we hear screams and A WHITE PICK-UP TRUCK FLIES OVERHEAD AND LANDS ON THE BEACH JUST BEFORE THE SHORELINE!!! The truck hits the beach nose-on and rolls into the water. I immediately think of that TV show "Jack-ass!" This shirtless guy emerges, blood running down his face. He broke his nose when he hit. He looks pissed off. We tend to the guy until medics and cops arrive. He flew about 150 feet before he hit! He was fairly coherent, didn't appear drunk, but he might have been. Most likely it was a suicide attempt. A guy who arrived afterward said he was eating in a restaurant down the street when he saw the truck whizz past doing about 90 mph. This surfer guy named Eric was sitting about 20 feet behind where the truck landed. It was funny, but there were lots of people on the beach, including small children, and it would not have been funny if the truck had hit anyone. Oh, and I figured this bizarre event was some kind of sign and asked that girl I met, Hillary was her name, if she would marry me. She refused. I asked her out and she smiled and said it was unfair to use this happening to ask her out. I figured hey, when you just meet someone and an air-borne truck flies over your head, that's a sure sign of impending romance. I guess she didn't see it that way. She was more interested in the surfer guy, but the surfer guy made it clear he wasn't interested in her. He seemed kinda interested in ME, but I was focusing on Hillary. It was like this weird anti-love triangle. But the truck thing, that was better than the zoo next door. Now I wish we would have traded phone #'s so we could have a Flying Truck" reunion ten years down the road...
Posted by: e at March 18, 2004 03:09 PMMaybe that's what the mad emergency response action up and down Great Highway was a couple of sundays ago. Is this becoming a trend?
Also, looks like nobody has said it, so I will: 3 to 5, that is a very tight lyrical flow you display.
Posted by: redworm at March 18, 2004 03:18 PMthat is a nuts story you posted e, poor guy can't get any play even during a disaster.
sure hope the winds stay off it for another 2-3 hours.
Posted by: barney at March 18, 2004 03:19 PMyeah.. thanks redwork.. i likewise forgot to comment.. stylized rhymes 3 to 5.. keep em coming.
Posted by: e at March 18, 2004 03:20 PMOB: same pretty bitty size, somewhat crunchier with less clean and clear peaks, very slight texture on the water pehaps due to haze on horizon. But it's still working, still on, still sunny.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 18, 2004 04:27 PMthanks for the update sharkbait, the surfpulse cam can only do so much for ya when you are in the cube. hard to decide on the afterwork surf session.....might have to do it just to do it.
Posted by: barney at March 18, 2004 04:30 PMsorry boss, ill work extra hard when it rains. oh wait, you guys arent my boss, oh well.
Posted by: bagel at March 18, 2004 05:12 PM46006 15.1ft 13sec.
Posted by: kdalle at March 18, 2004 05:29 PMHey everyone, I've got some pretty sad news. On St. Patrick's Day at 2am, my cousin was killed in a hit and run accident in Milbrae while crossing El Camino Real with his girlfriend. They were coming home from a concert and stopped at Peter's cafe to grab a salad. She crossed first, and as Phil crossed, the Jeep Wrangler sped up according to her and a witness. Phil was hit on the driver side and landed about 150 ft. from where he was hit. Anyone who knew Phil knew he had a heart of gold, willing to do anything for anyone. Now he's gone. The family's torn and every one is wondering how such a horrible thing can happen. No matter who dies at what age, it never seems like it's the right time to go. So many questions, and no answers. The good news is the piece of shit took his jeep to a body shop yesterday and told them he hit a deer and the body shop guy recognized the jeep from the news story. The police already impounded the jeep, and I guess they're just waiting for the guy to come in and pick up his car, then they'll nail him. What goes around comes around.
We'll miss you Phil
Posted by: Ian at March 18, 2004 07:25 PMlotsa serious/not so serious posts. Gotta say had a ball catching soo many waves this morning on my hybrid. Equipment makes a difference. Enjoy the good stuff, cause there's a lot of bad to compare it to. 17 feet at 14 sec's coming in from da north!
Posted by: banjo at March 18, 2004 10:02 PMoh man....ian, i am so sorry to read your news. so, so sorry.
sometimes you think you're just checking for an update on morning winds, and the next thing you know, you're thinking that it's just pretty freaking great to have the morning to celebrate in whatever way possible.
Posted by: friendly at March 18, 2004 10:30 PMfriendly, thanks for your post, I was struggling for words and you couldn't have said it better. Ian, good luck to you mate. My heart goes out to you and all of the family and friends of your cousin.
Posted by: ben at March 18, 2004 10:48 PMWow, thank you guys! Good news is they caught the person and he's in jail. Thanks again though guys, it means a lot.
Posted by: Ian at March 18, 2004 11:16 PMhey now...got out wed pm...good waves...peace
Posted by: TGN at March 19, 2004 12:23 AMI always feel kinda weird offering condolences to people I've never met - I'm afraid that it will appear insincere. It's doubly weird to do it online. But tragedy, death and grief are things we all experience regardless of how unacquainted we might be with one another; and compassion is something we should share in whatever way we can. So, my hearts out to you and your family, Ian. From the posts of your's that I've read, you sound like a positive-minded guy - that'll be a real asset to your family during this rough time.
Posted by: Jimmie at March 19, 2004 07:16 AMwind coming up today already?
Posted by: jacob at March 19, 2004 09:46 AMJimmie, thank you man. You're right it's weird telling people how sorry you are when you've never even met them. But in all honesty, it means a lot to us. And you're right, everyone must go through this in their life, everyone dies, it's just the worst when you can't say good bye, or when someone else robs them of their life. Anyway, it's Friday, tryin to stay positive. I hope everyone has a goodweekend and don't forget about the fish demo at Lindamar this weekend! E, maybe post about it on todays post?..
Posted by: Ian at March 19, 2004 10:21 AMHey my names kayla n i think ur a heaps mad surfer ur the best..i go to skool with either ur couzin or brother.
love kayla
Posted by: Kayla at August 27, 2004 03:42 AMt
Posted by: ps at September 12, 2004 01:35 AMthe story about koby is that he shot the guy in the back of the head but his brother jai is taking the rap because koby's the breadwinner
Posted by: at September 12, 2004 01:44 AMthey're both notorious punks who have false cracked people everywhere they've traveled
the story is strange cuz koby and jai are always together and out causing havoc - but koby was sleeping? the two - koby and jai - are infamous for ganging up on people with jai getting them from the front while koby hits them in the head from behind
even if the guy they killed was a bad ass, jai was out drinking with him so what does that tell you given the company they keep?
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