a few waves..
OB looking big and burly. I didn't notice much shape on my way home from an early morning road trip. The scale of the crushing white-water was made clear while watching a little speck (surfer) getting pummelled by wall after wall of angry oceanic energy. Largish/mushy overhead++ ? behemoths crumbled and bounded on the outside. I didn't see anyone out there. kdalle and crew were probably scoring from their secret sloat paddle out spot? After considerable driving I found a little nooky locale and managed a gratifying session. Gyrating, funnelling wave after wave pumped in with crowd-easing consistency. There were barrels on offer but i didn't sniff any out. The first 40 minutes was solo so i got to work-out a few aspects of my game and also enjoy the solitary zone-out that comes with surfing by yourself. Spacing out on thoughts of life, love, music, geology, the space-time continuum, exoskeletons, burp-singing, Bhutan, tea ceremonies, high quality mustard, Brazilian bubble-butts, etc. Soon a crowd gathered but there were enough waves to go around. I scored one memorable ride where i took off on a smaller inside wave, navigated the steep, sucking drop, then did 6 linked turns in a row.. bottom turn - top turn - bottom turn - top turn - bottom turn - muushhy top turn.. Granted my turns weren't incredibly "rippy" or anything but it still felt nice to carve around a bit and try to smack the top off the wave. Upon exiting the water i watched a legendary sponger come flying down the line on a long wave.. he had a head-of-steam flowing and then he cruised up to the top of the wave and whipped a smooth 360 off the lip, then came down to the bottom again.. looked tight.
soo.. the swell is waning on the papa buoy. down to 15ft 10seconds.. OB should be tamer by tomorrow's dawnie. just a question of whether the winds will cooperate?? hmm..
boosting with the retro 'stash point job (igotwake's photo)
murph bar?
yes please
e-good on ya for getting wet. One fun ride is enought for me. After that it's all gravy.
No, I couldn't do it today. Someone broke into my car last night and stole a very expensive pair of waterproof binoculars that were a present from my wife. I was so bummed I just sat in the lot at Sloat and listened to Jimi Hendrix "Machine Gun" on Band of Gypsys. IMO it is the finest, most emotional guitar solo of all time. At my age I can't help but have old Vietnam footage the I saw daily on TV in the early 70's running through my head as I listen to it. By the time its over it is very cathartic.
Oh yeah, go SURF!
Posted by: kdalle at March 25, 2004 10:20 AMso i'm "legendary" now? hahaha, fun getting some waves with you e.
so anyway my back is FUCKED. i wanted to improve my flexibility so i bought that "yoga for surfers" dvd. i had only done yoga once before and obviously i did something wrong and tweaked my back on monday night. tuesday i was in pain, but wednesday i felt better so i figured i could surf this morning. while i was surfing i didn't feel any pain, but walking back to my car my back started tightening up really intensely. now at work, i just went to take a piss and had to stop and bend over twice on the 50 foot walk back because my back was tensing up really gnarly. i'm ok when i sit, but walking and deep breathing suck. i know it's a muscle in my lower back, so what should i do, heat or ice???
Posted by: bbr at March 25, 2004 10:32 AMdamn. people breaking into cars. its happening alot these days. my bud was surfing the BU and someone ripped off his laptop, ipod and phone. bummer, though the big bummer was that he had his latest album tracks that he recorded on his laptop. all the masters and stuff.
anyway, keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow morn.
off to work!
Posted by: elias at March 25, 2004 10:34 AMMade the big south driving haul and hit a dawnie point break.
As I took my position in the lineup, a massive clean-up set appeared. I scratched like mad to make it over the first, I was prim-o for the second. An 8-10 ft wall gurgled and spat its way down the break with me zig-zagging it on the 6'3" RFS board (which is actually kinda small for me and the fin is not nearly as good as the new ones). At the end of the ride I contemplated leaving. I would not get a better wave than that, and I'd put in almost no time!
But I went back, and predictably, didn't score another behemoth. After a long north drive back and a cup of java, I found out that Danny and Judith paddled (and swam) out at the beach, and I wished I had joined them. Danny tested his new 8 ft wood masterpiece, which looks super-sweet. I lent him the RFS rental board for ride-testing/evaluation. Perhaps if he digs it he will put one in one of his wood boards.
Sorry to hear about the car, kdalle, and the back, bbr. I live with pre-surf stretching as the only way I can surf, and it's not so bad. Tough sponging with a low back prob, though.
Tomorrow and Saturday morning are supposed to be mostly onshore - anyone wanting to get wet, I'd recommend south of Steamers.
Posted by: blakestah at March 25, 2004 10:39 AMKdalle - Where does Maggotbrain rank on your list of solos? Sorry to hear about the theft. It is always a drag when the item stolen has more value to you than it would anyone else. Harder to use the "property is theft" consolation argument on that one.
E- Reading your report I thought once again how great it would be to be young and unencumbered. I awoke last night at 2AM, and layed in bed awake until 4. I believe that this is partly due to coughing girl in the next room, but mostly due to my sinus condition and/or the sudaphed I took yesterday.
In another life, in that predicament I would have got my stuff together and hit a north SC County spot for dawn patrol since I was up already.
This morning, I got up at 4AM to pay bills in the living room. Man, I feel so responsible.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 25, 2004 10:47 AM" most emotional guitar solo of all time."
listen to some jazz before making that claim. live it. breathe it. peace
Posted by: EG Pimp at March 25, 2004 10:48 AMGot the call early today for a near South run as I face tired and working through the weekend. Crap. Up far too late last night as my better half opened up for the Mekons at Slims and I was on the load out crew. Talk about punk fucking rock, John, Rico & Co. still bring it home. Lou had some great South Oz surf tips- Margret River anyone? Gonna date myself by saying that "I'm so happy" was a favorite as a kid. Check out www.mekons.com & www.unitedmeat.com for some fine work place time waste. And get some waves for a pal who has 12 days straight ahead of him on the work front. Crap.
Posted by: at March 25, 2004 10:54 AMEG - I don't think Kdalle be 'claiming' anything.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 25, 2004 11:03 AMbbr, I had bad back problems for years, sometimes i would be unable to get out of bed for days. My dog's hips were going out and his vet recommended glucosomine and told me he(the vet) takes it for his back. I started taking it and haven't had back problems since. The muscles in your back tighten most likely because they are protecting the injury, causing pain and letting you know there is an injury so that you take it easy. Glucosamine in made from oyster shell and is available at health food stores, it is completely safe and you can take as much as you can afford.
Posted by: mexisurf at March 25, 2004 11:04 AMsorry to hear about the car & gear, kdalle.
bbr, you probably want ice, but i don't know much about the nuances of lower back pain. i am going to see a chiro/bodyworker in the afternoon today, let me know if you want a referral, she is great (and covered by some health insurance) - pnmcs at comcast dot net.
e, saw you as you got out today, i was just getting in. also saw bbr's wave, wish i got a few long ones like that - nice bbr!
Posted by: loon at March 25, 2004 11:10 AMdamn, another break in. we need to hold a niceness 'stop the theft' rally - get a van, tint the windows, have a few people hiding in the van under blankets. one surfer gets out, hides his key but leaves doors unlocked. maybe keep a window rolled down w/ some valuables w/in viewing distance. people in van wait for thief to break in, once he's in he gets pummelled. oooooh yeah.
Posted by: j at March 25, 2004 11:13 AMfriend #1 - the grass is usually greener.. I may not be encumbered with wife/kids/family/crazy-job/mortgage/etc. but at the same time I've eaten dinner the last 5 nights by myself and I haven't kissed a girl in almost 3 months. those things aside i have to admit that it's nice to have your own place that looks exactly the same when you return as when you left. It's nice to be able to tell a friend to cruise back to your place on the spur of the moment to jam. it's nice to randomly cruise out with friend's after work and not have to worry about somebody waiting for you at home. It's nice to go to bed at 9:30 and wake up at 5am and be out the door at 5:03am. It's nice to have your own space and your own time. umm.. wait.. did i say the grass was greener?? oh yeah.. the kissing!! always something..
kdalle, tom, bvb, etc.. who the FUCK is breaking into all these cars!!! I'm not usually a violent person but whoever is doing this deserves some serious punishment. geez.. talk about some bad karma coming his/her way..
Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 11:26 AMj - that's not a bad idea. i'm sure it would make for a good "Cops" episode, like the one I saw in Jersey where they had a rash of semi trucks getting looted, so they set up a decoy where the driver walks away from the truck in a suspicious neighborhood, with about 4 cops hidden behind the goods inside. Good way to test the "crooks peeping from apts" theory also.
Posted by: g at March 25, 2004 11:35 AMHoped to grab some Sloatsom pics at 7:00 this morning. Saw Judith goin for it and one guy who paddled for 20-30 minutes but got denied. There were a few clean bombs way out back (Bumluck Egypt) but it looked unforgiving.
bbr- Unsolicited advice. Da' wife is a physical therapy professor. I would urge you to get a referral to a good PT and get checked out. I've seen her friggin' cure people using some weird voodoo diagnostics and exercises.
She usually says cold packs for the pain, hot packs for flexibility. And be careful about the stretching if you take aspirin. . . I've been told a lot of injuries happen that way.
Posted by: Bruce at March 25, 2004 11:39 AMthe karmic vigilantes....has a nice ring to it..
bbr...i have been having quite a bit o back problems lately as well. maybe go see a doc and figure out if it is just a strain/pull or something a little more gnarly like degenerating disc. Are you hips listing(is one higher/more forward than the other or just "out of balance)? Could indicate some dd (what i have been told I have). Anyway...either way I think a little ice/a little heat...some mild stretching until it resolves and ibuprofen to lessen the swell. Is it ibu or acetominaphen, i forget? Whatever you do don't go immobile...it hurts, but you have to keep that some movement going. Once it resolves...like Blakestah said...lots of stretching ( i stretch twice a day). And add some crunches and back/ab strengthening excercises (yoga good for this, just make sure your doing it right.) Holy crap sorry for the long post.
I want all of you to send good karmic vibrations to our boy bagel as he is soon to start his voyage to the South Pacific. Good swell bro!
Posted by: jdz at March 25, 2004 11:39 AMniceness scorin'. sweet.
i'm still out with my tweaked back from VFers on Saturday. bbr...sorry to hear about your issues...they sound almost exactly like mine. once or twice a year i get this mega muscle spasm that is, as mexisurf points out, my back overreacting as it "protects" itself from some sort of trauma. i find that pain-killers, rest, and icing it as often as i can go a long way toward easing the pain and shortening the heal time. after a few days, once the pain is no longer completely debilitating, i begin some GENTLE stretching and seek out a massage (ideally from some svelte, yet strangely powerful Eastern European hottie! ; ). however, at the end of the day, it's always time that's needed. i've had to pretty much chill for anywhere from a week to two letting my body heal itself.
oh....and mexisurf's rec for glocosamine seems like sound advice. i just started that myself.
Posted by: ck at March 25, 2004 11:47 AMFriend #1 mentioned a "Maggotbrain" solo, listen to this sick version:
http://web1.nugs.net/wsp/0110greek_mp3.asp?artist=6&show=167&cmd=shows
Go to the bottom and the 10/14/01 show, 2nd set. Santana sat in on a nasty Maggot Brain and shreds it. He sits in for the beginning of 2nd set through drums. Some of the most insane soloing I have ever witnessed.
Posted by: barney at March 25, 2004 11:51 AM
Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 12:00 PMFriend #1-I am sooo out of the loop that I did not know Maggot Brain but I'm aware of Widespread Panic. Having been a Deadhead since '69 I can testify to the beauty and power of their music and jam music in general. Garcia and Weir along with many of the usual suspects such Jorma Kaukonen, Django, Clapton, Hendrix, etc. were my guitar inspirations. Spent many an hour learning their styles on my old Danelectro, SG, 335, Strat, L5, Paul (shoulda kept'am all just like I should kept all the old surfboards).
So, thanks for the reference. Must...listen...to...Maggotbrain....
Posted by: kdalle at March 25, 2004 12:09 PMbagel - have a good one. take pics so we can all drool at your good fortune.
e - you just verbalized the dilemma we all face when balancing women and our separate lives! well put.
Posted by: j at March 25, 2004 12:10 PMMaggot brain is the first track on a Funkadelic album of the same name from the early 70s. It's really good.
Posted by: d n s at March 25, 2004 12:15 PMyeah..
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Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 12:18 PMYes, yes. The oft told tale of the making of that Funkadelic track is that George Clinton asked Eddie Hazel (while he was L oving S ons and D aughters) to play as if he just heard that his Mother had died. Halfway through he wispered in his ear, "She's alive, She's alive."
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 25, 2004 12:40 PMHere we go
http://www.surfvid.com/cgi-bin/viddb.asp
choose "032004" (the first one).
OR
http://www.surfvid.com/video/032004.wmv
At 42 seconds, my back while Manni plays with the fin
These are, I believe, riders on the demo rotating fin board, I think it is loon at 65 seconds and Ian at 80. Hard to be 100% certain, though, unless we get a higher quality vid.
These is Fish Fest Video, shot by Surfvid aka Lloyd Pollock (who is an aging charger in his own right).
Posted by: blakestah at March 25, 2004 12:41 PMOB: ARRR sorry I'm late, missed surfing this am, had to run around instead, OB is reflecting my mental state, it got that incoming storm chaos going on, it's windy [ strong from the south ] and overall looks like it's yelling "ARRR" too...Glorious to watch but it's deteriorated more since this morning...no surfy...pray for tomorrow!
BBR [ anyone else for that matter ] I've got #'s for a GREAT massage therapist, she did wonders for pain managing my injured neck. Good prices too. Also # for GREAT PT, he's a monster surfer, nice guy, excellent physical advice and surf tips too.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 25, 2004 12:44 PMMaggot brain is sick, thats also one of my favorite album covers. Anyone hear Jerry bands 70's "roadrunner" its one of my fav gut solos...
Posted by: mexisurf at March 25, 2004 12:52 PMAs a long time lower-back pain sufferer, I commiserate with you, bbr. Sounds like a case of too much, too quickly with the yoga, aggravated by surfing. There, I said it out loud: surfing can aggravate back pain - something I will NEVER admit to my wife!
Posted by: at March 25, 2004 01:02 PMLots of good advice here today, but I'll throw in my $.02 anyway. Lizzen-up, this old codger knows from back pain! Alternate heat and ice. Take a hot bath to loosen up your muscles, and then apply an ice-pack to the painful area for about 15-20 minutes. Repeat as often as you can throughout the day. VIOXX is a good anti-inflammatory, but it requires a prescription and can be expensive. Ibuprofen is also good, requires no prescription and is cheaper, but it is very rough on the stomach. I LIVED on ibuprofen for years because of various injuries, and now have chronic esophageal inflammation and acid reflux syndrome. Use it sparingly, but do whatever you can to reduce your pain – it is much more difficult for our bodies to heal when we are hurting. Glucosamine and chondroitin actually do help promote healthy joints and ligaments. Methysulfonylmethane (MSM) is another supplement for promoting healthy joint tissue.
Yoga is an excellent way to increase your flexibility and help align/realign your frame. HOWEVER, you have to start slow and not over-stretch. Videos are o.k. – but, it’s usually a good idea to take at least a few classes. That way you can get basic instructions on the correct way to do the postures, including the PROPER WAY TO SYNCHRONIZE THE MOVEMENTS WITH YOUR BREATHING. It is the proper synchronization of the movement with the breath that PREVENTS INJURY. A good, observant yoga teacher will also clue you in on how to compensate for any individual idiosyncrasies your body has. I prefer Astanga Yoga, it’s rigorous enough to make you to SWEAT, yet still puts primary emphasis on the all important movement/breath synchronization.
While you are recovering be REALLY careful with any lifting, or twisting you do. Take it from this old man, you do not want to further aggravate what is probably a relatively minor muscle strain. I have missed A LOT of surf days this season from a recent recurrence of an old lower back injury.
It is never to early to start taking care of your body. Believe me, healing and rehabilitation is a lot harder, and takes a lot longer as you get older.
STRETCH before you surf, put in your earplugs and put on that sun-screen!
O.K. - DAD’s goin’ back to sleep now!
Sorry, the above was me.
Posted by: Jimmie at March 25, 2004 01:04 PMroadrunner is hippie speed metal
Posted by: at March 25, 2004 01:07 PMjimmie and everyone else... thanks. going home now, this sucks.
Posted by: bbr at March 25, 2004 01:11 PMOK, Friend #1, my bad. I googled Maggotbrain and came up with Widespread Panic. Was not aware of the original which, I assume, you were actually referring to.
Must...listen to...George Clinton
Posted by: kdalle at March 25, 2004 01:15 PMMust...try...glucosamine
Must...surf
Good editing on that fish fest vid. I like how the shortboard segments are timed to the frenetic parts of the song. Couldn't tell which were the demo board clips though.
Posted by: mwsf at March 25, 2004 01:49 PMBack, back, back, back.... This one could go on forever!
Like mostly everyone, I have dealt with frequent back issues and had some high neck issues as well. The neck was a fluke from mid-beach body slams. The back issues come and go. I am sure that my frequent air-drops to wipeouts don't help here. My recommendation: 1st: PT, 2nd: Massage, 3rd: Chiro.
However, depends upon your pain. I have come to recognize what pain or ailment needs what attention from whom. This is EXTREMELY important. I haven't tried an acupunturest yet but I will one day. Hit up a PT, have them get you on some electrodes and ice, chill for an hour and then let it rip.
BBR/Loon, just missed you guys I guess. bbr, I think you were the last thing I passed as I wobbled my way on my last wave and headed for my car. Saw a few rides of yours, getting it done! Nice. Hope it got better after about an hour or so for you. Should have.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 25, 2004 01:57 PMRotating fin board segments. First, know the board is a 6'8" rounded pin, all white, with a 3 inch SF logo near the nose.
At 65 seconds, leading up, we have dude stepping to the nose on a slow ride, and arching backwards. Then we have middle aged woman nearly pearling her longboard before pulling off a turn on her left. Then, we have loon on the rotating fin board going left.
At 80 seconds, leading up, we have red board on a left getting covered up, then dude going right (with another person in the foreground), and he does a head turn to check behind him. Then, a wide longboard ride (going left) passing a big blue foam board. Then, Ian on the rotating fin board, going right.
Both rides are followed by Ryan on the big yellow longboard on a wave.
Posted by: blakestah at March 25, 2004 02:10 PMsurf FP last night. i havent surfed there in years, now i remember why. way too much moving water and paddling for such little surfing. you really need to have big board out there to do well. i was on a 7'2" and couldnt get into a lot of the sets. also i didnt want to sit on top of the rocks like someothers were. anyway, saw some good rides biggest sets were 4' overhead. nothing major. i did however watch some kid get sucked out and had to paddle around the fort to get back, that was strange.
Posted by: dsx at March 25, 2004 02:26 PMdsx.....what do you ride/look like ? i was out there too...
Posted by: at March 25, 2004 03:02 PMBlakestah, what band is the music by in the vid?
Posted by: Kaiser at March 25, 2004 03:12 PMThat is just surfvid jammin on a baritone uke.
You should see how he plays after a few beers.
;)
Posted by: blakestah at March 25, 2004 03:19 PMpottz
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Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 03:27 PMarchy
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cram
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Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 03:29 PMjust watched the vid. loon threw a big fan off the top on his left and then headed back to the foam?
Ian had a drivy bottom turn? (slim but tall...is that ian?)
wow.....looks to me like that thing may really work. I have to admit i was a skeptic and was only scanning through your UFO posts...
..nice surfing ian and loon....looks like you guys could ride anything including a 2x4 but i will say......fin system looked legit to me.
nice work blakestah.....keep it up (but make a board that i would like to try it on) think 2 3/4 inches thick please....
Posted by: tom at March 25, 2004 03:36 PMhey blakestah.....check your blakestah@blakestah.com email address
Posted by: tom at March 25, 2004 04:04 PMTalk about trouble!!!! I USED TO HAVE A BAD BACK TOO but NO MORE.
Sheeeeeeittttttt. The guy who got sucked out at Prison Point last night ended up coming in on west beach. The miltary guards do not appreciate us coming in over there unless you're bloody and gasping for air; practically drowning ok then...
They told my friend, let's call him DAVE, that next time he has to beach it at Baker. They consider west beach OFF LIMITS. SO OK - if the tide is pulling you out - stay to the inside of Rock # 1. Swim towards the wall as close as safely as you can - the wall waves will push you back into the cove. IF you fight it in the middle of the bay it's basically GOODBYE! and hello Guards unless you want to walk back from Baker.
Save us all the trouble by taking care of your own ass - we will save you if we have to.
I cured my back problems with non-force technique chiropractics and a more sensible approach to using this battered body. I have a connection to local practitioner's if you need help. Cyclobenzaprine, Flexerol (sp) all these "muscle relaxers" are kind of uselss. If you're really spasming and in pain GET Valerian root and make a tea or take a bomb pill VALLIUM - and wipe yoursef out so you can stop the spasms. Above all relax and then you can begin again with light stretching.
Lates.
Posted by: BVB at March 25, 2004 04:05 PMbbr-
somebody maybe already have addressed your back issue, as i haven't made my way through all of the posts.
i've experienced the same thing as yourself about 3 or 4 times in my life. if it's the same thing that i've had (a sense that your lower back muscles are seizing up - almost like someone pouring concrete into your back and you cannot move and it hurts so f-ing bad) you're having a muscle spasm.
the ironic thing is, most of the times i've experienced one has been the result of some innocuous combo movement - i.e. coughing hard, while my back was twisting away from a dinner table.
ice will work a bit, but the main thing you need to do is maintain lots of blood circulation to the affected area. if you can, do some light exercise. last year when it happened i went and paddled around and the minor activity got me back up in no time.
eat lots of lorcet.
be
Posted by: be at March 25, 2004 04:10 PMYep - Ian is slim but tall, loon is medium build and height. I've never actually seen footage before this (I am usually on the board).
The first shaper that made one (in Florida) used a free sample. After one surf session, he bought another, and a week later sold two to his customers.
The SF Surfshop longboard (a 9 footer) is shaped and at the glasser, hopefully it will be ready this week or next. Gonna get Scallan to be one of the first test-pilots. See how it coffin rides :)
btw - everyone wants to test ride it on "their own preferred board". It is maddening.
Posted by: blakestah at March 25, 2004 04:13 PMbbr,
I take glucosomine for a knee issue... don't know if it does anything, but what the heck. You can get a lifetime supply at Costco.
I also did a number on my back (and shoulder) when I first started yoga. I have found that you need to be really gentle with these areas (probably due to surfing stresses). Obviously, if you are feeling any pain doing a posture, that's bad. Just get into it easy. Flexibilty will come with time... a long time. Kind of like surfing skills.
Quality closeout surfing was had today.
-d
Posted by: dano at March 25, 2004 04:28 PMMother Earth is pregnant for the third time
For you all have knocked her up!
I have tasted the maggots in the mind of the universe
I was not offended
For I knew I had to rise above it all
Or drown in my own SHIT!
Go on, MAGGOTBRAIN
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 25, 2004 04:30 PMi'm a kingkong man
Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 04:53 PMi'm a voodoo man
i'm an apeman
- kinks
when it's late in the evening
Posted by: e at March 25, 2004 05:09 PMand the music's seeping through
- paul simon
You can get all hung up
Posted by: j at March 25, 2004 06:20 PMin a prickle-ly perch
And your gang will fly on
You'll be left in a Lurch
-dr seuss
feelin better after a long ass nap and some IBP. thanks again for the tips, i'll probably be out of the water a week or so until this clears up.
Friend #1 that quote is in a Mike Watt song too...
Posted by: bbr at March 25, 2004 06:55 PMack, late post.. out of the loop today! That lindy video was cool, my first cameo :) The UFO works, everyone needs to try it.
Posted by: Ian at March 25, 2004 11:34 PMBBR- I have that tape. Mr Watt is a traditionalist. Plus since he only gets to play the progressions behind the lead guitarist, I'm sure he wanted to do the voice-over too.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 26, 2004 08:14 AMDoh! The first wave I mentioned WAS NOT loon and was NOT the rotating fin board, but the second is definitely Ian.
Posted by: blakestah at March 26, 2004 10:09 AMdon't go to the beach tomorrow. Or, don't drive your car.
Posted by: gotsum at March 28, 2004 11:34 PMPlease check the sites in the field of- Tons of interesdting stuff!!!
Posted by: at December 1, 2004 01:24 AM2435 Very well said franz
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