amalgamated cornicopia
Myopic propensities strive for psychic dominance.
He of flexible mind sees many pathways.
But for laziness we achieve our highest potential.
Listening. To Listen attentively is a mark of a learned mind.
Breathing. Concentration on your breath leads to an awareness of the the onrushing, over-determined, cacophonous train of thoughts raging through our heads at every waking second. Concentration on breathing leads to a pause into nowness. Past and future disapear and all that's left is the filling of your body with air.. then the releasing of that air back into the world. Sloowwwlly innn.. sloowwwlly out.. in the now right now be here now now be here.
anyway..
more waves this morn. Busted it again at the inner-butt-crack of dawn.. way up in the deep crevice where it's still all dark and mysterious and smelly. Spelunking into the bowels of the wee wee pre-dawn caverns. Back to the little nook down the coast a ways. Got out there and waves still funnelling through. Not as well shaped as yesterday but still a plethora of sparkling, glassy bulbous mounds. First wave i scratched and paddled as the thing rose, dredged and gulped-out.. Just made it over the ledge and should've sleuthed down the near-vertical face but instead saw the nose of my board dig into the bottom of the face and next thing i know i'm ragdolling end over end and then spazzing around in the white water and just generally getting raped by the crashing wave.. d'oh!! nice wake up call! But after that i generally locked into most of my drops and enjoyed maybe 10 or 15 steep-drops then a turn or two down the line. Kaiser proved the king of the superman air-drop over-the-falls on the biggest monster set waves to come through. He repeatedly decided at the last minute to take-off on impossible waves and then suffered the consequences. Tough day for the big guy.. but i also saw him snag a medium size one and carve two smooth, balanced top-turns. A beginner out there got sucked into a bad area and then naively attempted to take off on an inside wave and got absolutely sling-shotted over-the-falls right into a family of not-so-forgiving rocks. I don't know how he made it out unscathed but somehow he survived. He was gathering himself way out on the shoulder 15 minutes later. I stopped to tell him how crazy that wipe-out was and i could see in his eyes that he was still really scared and shook-up from it. He was even shaking a bit and actually got out of the water soon after. fuuuck. Ragnor was smoothly killing it as usual. He's a fabulous surfer but i gather a George Bush supporter.. who knew?
soo.. that's the skinny.
Kirra tow-ins (from sargesdailysurf.com)
Caitlin Kuhwald's artwork (from fecalface.com - an awesome site!)
you are brilliant.
my favorite word, among many favorites from this morning, is "sleuthing".
Posted by: nep at March 26, 2004 10:41 AMgeez it's a beautiful day! Thanks e, your post just stoked the coals of an already beautiful morning. Anyone heard of Angelique Kidjo? A friend down in SB burned me a disc and it is just flowing and bouncing through the office with the birds singing spring out the window and I can feel those fresh blue skies at my desk! ahhhh, niceness :)
Posted by: ben at March 26, 2004 10:52 AMthanks nep and ben.. any knowledge or ability i possess is the result of pure luck and is a reflection of the environment and community surrounding me. So if you want to praise me.. praise yourself instead. I feel that the thoughts/music/words simply exist in space and time, outside myself... My body and mind is but conduit for those expressions to flow through. I don't feel any ownership.. rather a constant striving to listen and notice the exquisite, momentous poetic articulations surrounding all of us all the time. Immaculate manifestations of beauty, complexity and brilliance exist right in front of each of us every minute.. the only thing we have to do is notice them.
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 11:03 AMragnar will always rip. surprising that he's conservative politically. he was mod in the 80's, when the surfing population up here was still largely feral souls with shitty cars.
as i post here i'm about to leave to attend a funreal of the mother of my freind who first took me to OB as a teenage grom. i had to sit in the back of the pick-up 85 miles up highway 1, it was fall and worth it. the ride home kinda sucked. hope y'all score with waves and wahine's this weekend.
e, did that book arrive?
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 26, 2004 11:06 AM3to5! got the book. thanks so much. I wrote down your address and i'll return it upon completion..
right on.
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 11:30 AMOB: Sun and fog turning off and on or mingling together to form haze. Mild onshores, wave/lump size hard to tell when no-one's out. 6 foot plus thumpers outside in select areas. Lots of chunky variety and whitewater sloshing around in every direction. I think there's some poss lurchy peaks in the back, it's a tricky looking day.
EPIC BATTLE OF BOATDOCKS, true story! Being a novice and goofy I often figured that forgiving south lindy lefts would be the sane, responsible learning approach. No! Have tried repeatedly but never caught anything. This beautiful morning determined to catch this elusive soft wave . Floated, scratched around for an hour and twenty minutes, thinking, "Goddammit I've fumbled into north lindy and even fumbled into a few freaking mid ocean beach rides and can't catch a thing at fucking boatdocks!!" Had to catch something, ANYTHING just on principle. Refused to leave. Eons later, one bone-snapping closeout tumble [ but this is south lindy! ] I catch a gimpy...right! But it was a stand-up wave, so perhaps the south lindy curse has been broken. Excuze the long annoying post, but you folks have no idea how I've been skunked there!..Ridiculous...what kind of ass-backward surfing curve is this? Am I retarded?! Now I never need to go back and prove my south lindy mettle. That whole area in general usually sucks for me. Boatdocks, my nemesis wave. Arr!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 26, 2004 11:31 AMI kinda think Lindamar is a horrible wave for Bay area novices to be stuck with. So much in the way of close-outs, super-mush, and overpopulation--no clear take-off spots or regular, decent-length rides to get more practice time in. There is so little opportunity for progression, so little information available there to learn from. It's definitely the break, not you, SS. goodonya for "breaking the curse". That said, now that I've been out there a few times with beginning friends who prefer not to go to Montara again(how's that for a stupid mistake?) I did once have a great time at the far south end in the brown foamy funk below the cliffs, splashing around on mini one-footers. It was a sunny day and dangling my feet in the rocks and algae it reminded me of small, goofy Deveraux. Actually quite entertaining.
Posted by: ben at March 26, 2004 12:02 PMss....way to stick it out and battle your nemesis! don't let the bass-ackwards learning curve get ya down. just when it seems the darkest...just when you're about to hang up the wetty and turn your board into a Picaso...you'll have a sesh that clicks and all will be right with the universe.
Posted by: ck at March 26, 2004 12:14 PMthanks folks - I just find it funny that boatdocks, of all places, has been the most difficult place for me to stand up. Happy surfing,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 26, 2004 12:19 PMwords of wisdom to pass along to your shooken surf buddy
Posted by: tom at March 26, 2004 12:42 PM"if you are going to be stupid you better be tough"
sharkbait- I second the motion that it's not your fault to have a bad day at Lindy. Lindy's definitely not been a beginner wave most of this winter, at least not when I've been down there. On Saturday (or was it Sunday? Can't remember, whatever day the fishfest was happening) it was the best I've seen it in awhile, but definitely nothing close to a beginner wave. As usual for the spot most of the sets were closeouts, and closing into 3 feet of water. In front of the pumphouse (the shower building) had a decent left but it was choked with great surfers, so there were all these beginners elsewhere up and down the beach paddling like crazy into nasty nasty nasty closeouts. I saw more Softtops going over the falls on Saturday, big ouches. And plus the current was pulling north pretty quickly so they'd get into the significantly more critical north area. Man o man.
Even in front of boatdocks was hairy on Saturday, in fact I'd call it worse than the pumphouse because it was unambiguously closing out, whereas at least at the pumphouse a few peeled a bit before bashing down on your rail.
Posted by: wrybread at March 26, 2004 12:54 PMSuperman to wave ride ratio: 7:2 AT LEAST!
I think I had my cape on at least 14-15 times today. Just one of them days where I was a foot off in whatever direction. And my body is feelin' it right now for sure.
Today was also the kind of day I welcome some bit of localism or at least local knowledge. The type of day where my beat was just not lining up. The type of day where I might have been muttering shit underneath my breath. The kind of day where you need to hit the reset button a few times.
Paul, nice meetin' ya.
Posted by: Kaiser at March 26, 2004 01:04 PMe - crazy/cool I Chingesque/almost like haiku stuff this morning - I dug it the most! It was older surfers who first out me hip to a neo-buddhist mindset when I was a kid. It seems to suit a lot of us.
Posted by: Jimmie at March 26, 2004 01:47 PMnep - good to see your post here, my brother! I've pretty much bailed on that Surfermag bb. I much prefer this here cracker-barrel - it has a much more consistently friendly vibe. (BTW, e - when you get praise from brother nep for your writing it really means something!)
sharkbait - here's the deal with Boatdocks: First off, don't even bother on anything but a longboard - unless the surf is really gigantic. It works best on a lower tide than the rest of Pedro (Lindamar) does. Do not waste your time trying to get into anything less then the biggest set waves. The smaller waves are too gutless and just pull you in, out of position for when the sets finally arrive. When a set comes position yourself as deep as possible (usually in front of the red house on the beach and next to the big pinkish house up on the hill above the road), and commit to start paddling early - you need to develop some speed to help them mushy waves along. When Boatdocks is happening, it can be a lot of fun - longish, clean waves, certified for noseriding and drop-knee cutbacks and turns. But most of the time it's just not happening.
Hola nep, was wondering if you were the surfermag bb nep--I was checking that spot out as 'undertoe' last summer. As I recall I enjoyed your posts there quite a bit. Agree w/ jimmie, better vibe here, e runs a tight ship.
Posted by: ben at March 26, 2004 01:53 PMon that linda mar surfvid: wish he'd caught that awesome drop i made straddling the board, over the falls, howling obscenities. i think there is a brief moment of me cruising along, which is funny because i've never seen myself surf before.
btw: any recommendations for spots (surfing or otherwise) not to miss in san diego. headed down there in a couple of hours. staying on pacific beach.
Posted by: steamwand at March 26, 2004 02:08 PMmystical flow abounds... life as more than a coincidence, a positive influence... I had a post in mind today and find the theme already running strong on the board, good vibes...
hell yeah e! as i wise person once said, the true masters are always looking at the miracle of existence as if for the first time, constantly being amazed by it anew. ever sit on the toilet and think about what a majestic, insanely complex interwoven synergy of beauty is taking place inside your body? that's some real enlightenment, when your shit is love. heheh.
so here was the topic I was going to bring up: Anybody ever consider surfing as being a pathway to a Taoist state of nondoing? Surfing enables us to connect with the Natural Order from which our conscious, thought-crazy minds explicitly disconnect us. So gliding on a wave is a very close state to pure being... action arising not from 'doing it' but from natural nondoing.
Rockin' out reading "The Essential Crazy Wisdom" by Nes "Scoop" Wisker -- kind of overviewish, but really links together some powerful ideas -- perfect for putting you in a meditative state of being here now...
"Chew quietly your sweet sugarcane God-Love" (Rumi)
Posted by: jake at March 26, 2004 02:32 PMright on Jocular.. some ideas to chew on for sure. pure being, shitting, thinking, not-thinking.. wha??
I also agree with the Nep-liciousness of nep's writing skillz.. man's got flow.
bertleman
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 02:37 PMfish-fest (photos from www.mandalacustomshapes.com)
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 02:42 PMyes please
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 02:44 PMsteamwand - you have a car or no for SD? if you have a car, check swami's up north, and swami's cafe has great post-surf eats. for PB area tourmaline is probably the best you'll find close by, but sometimes the beachbreaks will be ok if the wind/sun/moon/stars/beers you've drank all align.
good luck.
oh yeah, STOKED, put some $$ on my first custom board ever yesterday!! gotta replace the one that flew off the car/picked up by another dude last summer, see http://www.nitsuj.com/lostboard.html for painful (to me) reminders. now the waiting period begins....
Posted by: j at March 26, 2004 03:18 PMsteamwand - oh yeah, the beaches just south of swami's can be on from time to time, too. you'll see 'em right off the cliff as you head south from swami's. good stuff.
Posted by: j at March 26, 2004 03:20 PMjake, think you're on to something there-
Posted by: billm at March 26, 2004 03:21 PMthe taoist/buddhist- surfing connection seems legit-
I just don't get the same out of snowboarding that i do from surfing-
i think it's somehow tied into being in the liquid medium- being connected as you say-
dissolution of the ego,
and the force involved is pure energy, not gravity.
most of the eastern philosophy i read seems to use the wave as a common metaphor. hmmmm......
oh, and before anybody tries flip shit because i gave out a spot name in my post, it's SOUTHERN FREAKIN' CALIFORNIA, there ain't no secret spots down there!!!
anyways, rock on kiddies, it's friday.
Posted by: j at March 26, 2004 03:22 PMthanks j. i hope no one would assert that swamis is a secret spot. i'll check it out. can't wait to split on my little mini vaca and do some taoist natural nondoing waveriding. who's little joey thomas single fin was that at the fish fest. i'd love to try that thing in some hollow surf. i wanna become a real barrel rider one day. that's my goal in life. it always feels so good in there, only i almost never make it out.
Posted by: steamwand at March 26, 2004 03:40 PMsteamwand- go to lajolla... down to windansea (windan) as the locals call it...ignore the 20 guys already out ...paddle through the line up to the top of the peak..take off, drop in and scream on down the line with a don't f with me look on your face(in a niceness way)....I've been wanting to do that every time I go down there... never had the cajones ....suck em up bro'...go for it
i think they'll respect you for it
Posted by: bigmig at March 26, 2004 04:08 PMpure energy, for sure, billm... the wave, us, One Source.
when I'm floating in the water, sometimes it helps me realize I'm floating in the Universe too. "being carried across the sky on great winds". the Ocean is so big! the Universe is so big! just stare up on a dark night sky looking at all those stars... so vast... we're so small... so Beautiful. hard to really put into words, but it's perspective of a Holiness that so many people don't realize in their lives.
Have a surf-filled, musical weekend everyone.
Posted by: jake at March 26, 2004 04:18 PMOB: fyi same lumpy-bumpy as before, but stronger onshores. Alas. Best with surfy fun this weekend...
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 26, 2004 04:34 PMthanks for the initial post today, e, one of my favorites. reminded me that i want to try surfing at night.
2 follow-ups on yesterday's posts
1) it's not me on the surfvid fishfest clip, i am a goofyfoot - and probably kookier-looking
2) my chiro/bodyworker suggested Traumeel as a homeopathic alternative for ibuprofen, which is reportedly quite rough on the kidneys, maybe liver too. comes in pill or topical cream.
blakestah sez that we have few more days of great basin hi pressure coming, yee ha!
Posted by: loon at March 26, 2004 04:42 PMcommitment
Posted by: e at March 26, 2004 05:08 PM46006- 3pm 20.0 ft 11sec
e-everytime you post an old photo I get all nostalgia. It's creepy. Gotta live in the present.
Surf tomorrow...yes!
Posted by: kdalle at March 26, 2004 05:25 PMI've done that at Windansea.
It feels good.
Lookin like a very surfy Sunday and Monday coming, Saturday may be ok too. What a March!
Posted by: blakestah at March 26, 2004 05:25 PMhaha, windansea has SO many people out even if you got into it with someone there you probably wouldn't even see them again. anyone have some good common spots along big sur? Post-friendly spots at least, so no one gets angry.
Posted by: Ian at March 27, 2004 08:08 PME, good seeing you and Kaiser the other day. I have a nice shot of you email me...
Posted by: mexisurf at March 28, 2004 08:35 PMAuspiciousness.
Posted by: banjo at March 29, 2004 04:57 AMHey Guys i am not a surfer of any kind yet, however i am very intersted in Surfing at night and would like to know if any one has ever done it and if there exist sth. commercial on the subject. Don't worry i am not a freak who wants to make money out of everything i am just a tourism student who happened to have chosen an assignment on Surfing at night, so if any1 could give me ANY comment on the matter i would be delighted
Posted by: Florian Klett at April 26, 2004 08:51 AMThanks
Flo
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