E's Surf Report

"Rocks turned and faced me as i advanced, stoic looks of consternation on their visages."

dig it man, giving a little light in this bleak cubical today.

thanks

Love this pic. Can't remember where I found it...

OB: hoooookaaaay there is a pair tow-in surfing mid-parts beach this midday. Beeootifully sunny, onshores increased since this am to medium strength, water is frothy, mixed up, possible peaks [ maybe I lie! ] but it's hella lurchy and whitewatery and plenty of those waves that lump up, throw a THICK closeout in the middle and then moosh out the sides...yeah you know those waves I'm talking about. Whitewater splats far out to sea. Head and shoulders abound and maybe 6-8 or up to 9 foot tops on outside, all lumps and swells mere handspans apart and travelling in various non cooperative directions. A paddle-out looks like Denial , at the very least a huge time and calorie commitment. At first I swear I had to make sure the tow team weren't running around water skiing, it took them long enough to find a wave. Then they found a 8 footish lump to work on. Hey you guys are CHEATING! heh Well, somebody's getting some waves, sorta, today...

Entering into the surreal ocean of my dreams, it dawned on me that it was in fact possible to take off upside down beneath a pitching lip, as long as one knew it was possible. Empowered by this knowledge, as an eight foot peak began to throw its burly lip, I calmly paddled over the lip and onto the underside, where I made my inverted takeoff. I stuck to my board and the wave as gravity was defeated by will of belief, and as I approached a more rational vertical position, I released myself from the face, and decided to airdrop a few feet onto the bottom of the wave. Now holding this line, a massive pipe engulfed me, and I disappeared to those on the beach inside the robust clamshell. Yet having succeeded in such an unconventional takeoff, the will to emerge from the barrel was mere child's play, and crouching and hugging in the slot, I kept my eye keyed on the exit and was spit onto the shoulder.

Waking up in the morning, the memory of that enormous tube was as real as any memory of waves caught in this physical reality.

~~

to treat an ear infection, I recommend the acoustic therapy of the following auditory delights: in a solution of silence, mix two parts "the soft ruffle of pelicans' feathers while flying" with one part "dolphins' respiration (a whole pod is best) exhaling through their backs in the aqua reflections of Sunset".

~~

word up, niceness. i read the 80 posts from mon. and tues. last nite, great to read about everyone's weekend, and scoring waves, and the content was rich and entertaining. big E, nice pics and fiction. Un Amor.

oh yeah.. i also saw Lewis ripping a bit on the shitty p. jetty waves this morning.. go lewis! He was really the only one out there even riding any waves.

btw...Ian....i saw your posting about school last night. what's up, amigo?

mwsf.. i like how the bird in that photo kinda parallels the whale above..

Listen, you guys have miles and miles at OB. Why come and invade our only spot in EG (Jetty). Used to be great there. Now all the OB and KookyMar folks are making it a hell hole.

You're right. There were 15 people in the water this morning at 8 am and no one catching waves. Didn't recognize one car or person surfing. Just a bunch of kook overflow from Lindy. Cut us some slack already.

Guess its time to start regulatin'

pimp it

e -- Me too. That whale pic totally reminded me of the bird pic.

EG Pimp??.....Have you seen my pimp hand lately? Don't make me pimp you when I see you in the water. Have a nice day.

out of pocket yesterday missed shark day. SHARK STORY # ATE

A former boyfriend ripper of my sisters was attacked while surfing north of the last stop light in town. He told me he had nightmares and that he wanted to personally kill the shark. Gnarly, Gnarly, Gnarly. He continues to surf north of the last stoplight in town.

I have seen small ones (coupla feet) in kelp beds scuba diving reefs on the westside.

with the trades starting to blow. the upwelling is stirring up the deep.

E, proper style is in your house.

Sad surf day when there is regulatin at the jetty....

jetty locals are about as funny as lindamar locals. look if you want to localize a spot, try and make sure it actually worth surfing. i havent seen a decent wave at the jetty in 10 years.

my friend just sent me this link. thought i would share
http://billabongxxl.com/04/more.asp?id_xxl=243§ion=2

yowzas

makes a 8-10ft day at OB inviting !
time to tune up my bike. and get some fresh air.

niceness to all.

Good link, elias. This wave is nuts!

"i havent seen a decent wave at the jetty in 10 years."

Then you must have missed every south swell in the last ten years. The jetty will fire on a good south.

Plus, if it's so shitty how come E cks and surfs it regularly? Listen, I'm not claiming it's world class by any means. But you can't beat it for back yard surfing.

regulate? yes, i must.

pimp hard in 04.

regulate your spot and then tell everyone when it's good. that's fucking genious.

the reason e surfs the jetty...i am only speculating here: is (and he doesnt surf it often) because the dude is a DP freak and once he gets going he wants to get wet...he starts at OB if its too nasty, big or blown he moves to lindy, again if its too nasty, closedout and shitty he moves south, by the time he gets to the jetty thats the last resort for his AM surf mission he either paddles out or calls it a day, if there is anything remotely worth surfing and few peeps out i guess he will suit up....

does that mean the jetty is a good place to surf. doubtful. does that mean its worth "localizing or regulating" doubtful.

EG Pimp you can regulate all the local junior high kids you want, there are very few people who will take notice.

pimp, do you really think that frothing over a spot you want left alone, AND explaining what swell works best, is a good idea?

mwsf--thanks for posting that pic, holy geeesus...so gnarly that it's downright sculptural!

Remember the first time you saw footage of Laird's first big one at Teahupoo? I was shocked. Love seeing these crazy waves, but as an observer and no more I do miss the way that one made me feel now that pics and video of the type are all over. getting slightly numb to it?

BEACH CLEANUPS: Aqua wants you to help out Surfrider and our beach with this week's cleanup- Sunday April 4th- Show up at 10am at the end of Sloat Street, we'll provide gloves, bags and instructions. Come back to the shop from the beach with yer "Trash Raffle Ticket" have some drinks, get a bar of wax and be entered for a GREENBREW skateboard. For more info- http://www.sfsurfrider.org/prog.htm GREENBREW's site will be up mid April-check it at Greenbrew.com Be on the lookout for AQUA's Bali Hi-Fi party April 10th at the Independent!

i've actually been yelled at and scowled at, etc.. at the jetty.. The hmb air-show pro pat gallagher? didn't like me surfing the jetty with he and his friend a few years ago (we were the only three out).. before i realized that he didn't want me around i saw him doing air after air after air on these little blippy waves and i actually paddled up to him and said, "nice ripping dude." He answered with a grimace and ignored me.. then later he told me to "get out of here, go surf down the beach".. i said, "are you serious".. he just gave me the evil-eye and kept surfing.. so did i.

weird vibes at the jetty!!

When you're used to thick OB waves it's almost comical to get vibed while surfing gutless little slappy waves. but.. where there's easy access and a tight takeoff spot.. there will be vibes.

we need a local battle royal, prove which place has the baddest locals! get the seaside point crew, the new jetty crew that is apparently forming (i'm guessing they'll only be able to fight after school hours though), the strand, etc. etc. and have a knock down drag out. last one standing is still just a jackass pushing localism, but God it'd be fun to watch.

i've got money on the bald-headed hairy-backed short stocky dude from DM's in the battle royal.

btw has anyone read or seen the japanese book/movie battle royal? awwwwesome...

dammit first bvb then scallan and now pete

what's this world coming to

OB: okay I'm procrastinating but just had to say it's blown to hell and I doubt it's going to get better! Still sunny though.

vibe story: super duper early at Pollutica, very mellow and flat and the kind of day where you float around forever waiting for any blip to come through. I'm in the middle of nowhere with nobody except for one 40 something guy who's sitting far enough away you can easily hear a 'hello' but not so close you'd be getting in each other's way. Usually in that situation somebody just waves or says a quiet 'howdy' ,-you know, acknowledging the other person's presense - then you either chat a bit or just clam up and savor your personal space. Many minutes later of freezing and floating about and watching seabirds and wishing for a cuppa I quipped , " So, I wonder when the breakfast cart is going to roll through?" Hoo boy - STINK EYE. What a glare! I think I ruined his warrior moment. I also felt kinda bad, but..come on, it was empty lindy at 1-3 feet for chrissakes! I wonder if people like that ever actually enjoy surfing, or is it another source of stress?

Wow. Just to clarify:
I've been surfing the area for 15 years, and driving by the jetty for all 15 without surfing it once. This morning was my first session there, ever. Sometimes you don't have the time to drive to SC. If someone had bothered to throw me a vibe it would have been the most exciting moment of the session, by far.

I hear Todd Barringer rules the jetty though. Anyone know Todd?

FYI: That XXL pic is of Andy Campbell, a friend from Tassie. Andy spends half the year in Indo and half in Tassie. Good guy. He towed shipstern's that day with my friend Dr. Phil Chapman. Phil's from SA -- it was his first tow in session and his first shipstern's session. As he said to me: "Pretty heavy out there, bru. Some cooking barrels to be had."

Just like the Jetty, I suppose, except not as gnarly.

Ah, the HMB Jetty! I was actually there last weekend. Of course, that was because I was giving a lesson in those "epic" waves! Must of been a little south pulse running that day.... Hmmm. Although Jeff Clark did refer to E as "that Donavon Frankenreiter looking dude" one morning there....

True Jetty story here: I was driving back from SC (E might have been there no?) and there was this like 80 yr. old dude chillin on the beach. He had a dusty ole wettie on with like gators on, the kind you used to use when you went snow skiing in the early 80's that were supposed to keep the snow out of your boots and off your jeans. Yeah, those... Anyway, the old cat had this board that looked like an ironing board for sure. It was foam and glass but absolutely no rocker, no fins, and the tail was completely square with diagnal lines cut towards the middle. For imagary, think of a rocket shape but lose the booster engines. This guy can hardly walk let alone surf so my interest is at a new level. I grab my 8mm film camera and hit the beach as this guy is walking out in the shorebreak (er, Jetty lineup for the local crew). It literally takes him 2-3 minutes to get into waist high water. Just a complete struggle to haul himself and the master's sled into position. Once there, he pauses for a few rows of whitewater, flops himself on this homemade craft, and belly rides 15 yards to the dry sand. Here, he rolls off his WRV in ankle deep water, brushes the sand off, and turns to make another 2-3 minute journey back to the "surf zone"! Each time, it seems like his step is a little lighter, his stoke a little brighter. I watched him do this for 20 minutes and got some sweet film of him that one day some of you may get to see!!!!

One of the most classic and good feeling surf sessions I have ever witnessed!

Other then that, the Jetty is worthless unless you are 90 lbs and can boost airs.

e and lewis: you guys are both talking about Pat Boellenger. one nasty mofo with a crack habit right there. be careful. he'll cut ya.

sounds like you all agree that the jetty sucks. ok! i get the point. then stay away. tell your friends. out.

keep pimpin'

EG pimp rocks.

Kaiser! Bro....... I just found out that Allan Weisbecker was staying at our Cabinas yesterday, but he's gone today! I missed him for you! If I can catch him, what should I do? Want an autograph? The real pimp is Patrick - El Capitan. Peaaaaaaaace

E, I like you. You got style.

Your welcome to burn one at the jetty pipe any day.

pimp out -

egp

E,
Don't sweat the Pat Bollinger incident, he was probably up all night on a speed binge the night before. Great surfer but not really a solid guy.

I have seen the jetty unbelievable almost like a mini Kirra section usually it is not worth it but it does get really good on rare occasions.

The sad thing is apparently before the harbor was put in there was a legitimate right hand point break in HMB. I have seen one picture that showed the potential.

By definition, "localism" is practised by people who don't get out very much. If these cretins were true purists, and actually walked their talk, they wouldn't even go surfing-- they would never set foot outside the root cellar they were born in, and mate with members of their own family, like vermin. The only "locals" in the lineup are seals, dolphins, etc., and even they move around enough to negate this idiotic hillbilly logic. I've been surfing for a very long time, in many places around the world, and continue to be bewildered by this thuggish, me me me attitude in the water or on the beach. Fortunately E, your site (and its very moniker) represent a rare shift from this foul mindset, to try and rise above it a bit, to sport a little humility and the audacity to consider others before oneself. Thank you for being as thoughtful as you are. Our time on this planet spans but a blink of an eye, many came before us and many will follow. Respect is a reciprocal thing, it's about consideration, not intimidation. Those who think surfing (or life, for that matter) is about thuggery, gangs, pimping and hatefulness are just setting themselves up for a very painful wake-up call of their own making.

what a boring day on this report.....

Can someone tell me the difference between (a) locals who claim a break, (b) fat cat developers who build gated communities blocking access to good spots, and (c) Defense department planners who lockdown miles of coastline so they can run tank exercises in a secure environment? At least category (b) spent millions for their supposed "rights" and category (c) can claim national security concerns. How's a teenager who lives a mile away cry "locals only?"

Haven't I heard surfers over the last 40 years argue that the ocean belongs to everyone? I, for one, will surf anyplace I please. I will also be polite to others, show respect to those who surf better than I do (vast majority), and share waves on those rare occassions where I'm actually charging.

End of localism tirade.

Anyway, back to niceness. I think we have some offshore days coming up.

'cept for the pic of that lovely.

additional $.02 on the shreddy:

- angry peas in pods: offers one of the tighter takeoff zones within miles of sf, with surprising amounts of anti-niceness attitude, much of it coming from kids. i found it a useful spot for developing confidence surfing in crowds while simultaneously coming to grips with the fact that by starting surfing in my 30's i will always be behind the curve.
- bizounce: the way the waves bounce off the jetty and slide around before peaking is also unique for anyone that primarily surfs beachbreaks.
- harm reduction: competes with bo-bo for hangover-friendliness

yes please

duudge!

Funny that picture above looks a lot like Bollinger.

What Jetty? Where?!

THAT PLACE?!

THAT HOLE FCKN SUCKS. PERIOD.

Fck, no way, is there a place out of this wind.

5 mile, 4 mile, 3 mile, 2 mile, 1 mile.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO. YES, MAYBE. NO.

FIRST IN A SERIES OF EXPOSING ULTRA
"SECRET SPOTS" BECAUSE most modern day surfers are ONE DIMENSIONAL DICKS. YOU SURF WELL AND YOU'RE STILL A KOOK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fullers: Uh - where is Big Sur?.
Ok - here: 1.4 miles south of Nepenthe Restaurant. There are three distinct cut-outs that hang over the edge of the Hwy. Get out of your car and look. No doubt some tourist in a cloud of dust will roll in beind you RUINING YOUR PEACE.
Look for other cars parked near the telephone pole on the west side of the road. There will be a trail heading straight down the steep crevice of a former waterfall. Watch for false trails - follow the main trail. Say 'Hi' to anyone you see on the trail. Say things like, ' hey brah - how are the waves'?
Halfway down the 2 mile trail to the perfect white sand and river stone beach you will finally see the waves below. This alone will spur you on.
Last part of the trial ignore the obscurity of rusted out cars the last 100 ft..
Beware of the surf nudist - big guy, surfs well but damned if won't come right up to you au natural? Beware of the gums no teeth raspberry headed stoned out bunerd out kneeboarder with the Pit Bull. Beware of Heinrich.
Beware Tavvy. Bring sunblock an umbrella, a cooler, leave the cans on the beach, start fire, piss in the stream.

haha, bvb's post was so obscure to me. Tom hit it earlier. E, you got any more of those ob shots? you still accepting shots for base or is it done?

I want to do this.
http://www.incredible-adventures.com/shark_encounter.html

serious

bvb,

please don't do that again. ok.

I love the jetty. Peanut butter and jetty makes a great lunch or breakfast.

Ian, A friend tried the diving trip at the Farallons - down for 2 hrs and still got skunked. Was it you a day or two ago on the whale sharks? Same friend currently in Belize looking for those:

http://www.belizetravelcentral.com/whaleshark.html

http://www.ambergriscaye.com/pages/town/whalesharks.html

Endangered and elusive. yes, "truly awe inspiring".

Related note: pops slaved away in nyc, saved enough for a beach shack in jrz. by random chance, I became an instant "local" next to one of the best breaks on lbi. one of those life changing moments. for me, that random occurrence is "truly awe inspiring."

Alta: That wasn't much of a secret spot. If the "locals" park at the access, it ain't "secret". If the locals are that lazy, perhaps it's not worthy of even staying low key.

nice site.

bvb - you crack me up dude, God damn i love the personalities on this site!!

**URGENT REMINDER**

If your secret spot is on the Surfline Travel pages.....

http://www.surfline.com/travel/surfmaps/us/central_california/index.cfm

BVB - Good stuff. Keep 'em comin'.
Per your last post yesterday: glad to hear the joshin' was mutual 'twixed you & blakestah. But,what's up with that BVR guy? I didn't get the joke there; maybe I just need a more sophisticated sense of humor - or maybe I'm just gettin' OLD.

The jetty? What used to be called Surfers' Beach? Yeah, I've gotten it good a couple of times on souths. The last time was about 3 years ago. There were actually a few headhigh waves coming through on the sets. Must have been at least forty people in the water, but me and this older Pacific Islander-looking guy were about the only ones getting any waves - no one else was even trying for 'em (?). Marginal spot, at best - more like a skatepark than a surf spot. Seems to have gotten even worse since they "improved" the breakwater. Never had a vibe directed at me there, but I've noticed it goin' around a time or two. Kinda funny considering the general quality of the wave and the average age of the surfers in the water.

All you lameass transplants claim local, but where the f_k were you when I was surfing Ano in a beavertail and boardshorts back in the 70's and 80's? Frickin with red numb legs? You were in LA bitches or in New York where no one surfed yet. Blame this fricking okama internet, but surfing in Northern Cal is just another adventure sport for the dot com trannies. I don't think any of you trannies understand. We're missing something here. The soul is gone or whatever. It's f_ing anoying doing something you love, then everyone else jumps on the trend. Then Bam, your vested interested becomes, how do you say in japanese, okama?

I for one would NEVER claim SF local status, since I moved here as an adult in 1974. But one of my kid's was born here - and he went to middle school in the Richmond and high school in the Sunset - can I be a local's dad? PLEASE, oh PLEASE!
415, YO! REPRESENT!

I'd never claim to be a SURFER. I was surfing the OB to Hook stretch from the 70's on. I now surf the shittiest beach break around because I don't want anything to do with being a SURFER. The linda mar, 4 mile, hook parking lot make me nervous as Martha's first day in the joint. I just surf, I'm not a SURFER. I wanna be Lance Armstrong, Laird, or that Pro Poker Player guy, but not a kook ass Surfer.

BVR - So desu ne! But if you've been surfing that long, while you may not want to claim to be a SURFER, you have the mark of Cain and it will not wash off!

bullshit secretsout. bvb disclosures are NOT on surfline. the had the class to keep it off.

bvb, after reading your interview. i gotta say you souled out on this one. i find this highly hipocritical based on your views of the whole dotcom phenom. i used to respect your rant as I am a NATIVE NOR CAL BOY surfing for nearly 30 years. i HAD RESPECT FOR YOUR TRANNY ASS! NO MORE. i hope the abalone pipe you bought last time you surfed south of clint eastwoods bar is forever clogged. you reap what you sow. aloHA brah.

The locals; fuckface, the brow, the sperm, dogfaceboy, spiderman, bonzo, toyota boy, the wizard, the painter, the baldy brothers, the piano player, spacecase, the blade, captain beyond, toad, birdman, 10:30, giesha boy, santa barbara guy, gotany, bricklayer, aussie, duck, toda boy, brown 'n' serve. The Betty's; Chestnut Mare, 4 mile hand job girl, Penny (.)(.), Brownie, Buffie. Best spot to be hazed by locals? The bench above the hook in the early 70's.

At least there's nobody hot in these pics....

http://www.eastcoastsurf.com/misc/reefcomp/index.html

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