E's Surf Report

it's friday!! let's get the board back to it's lighthearted, share the love/spliff/beer attitude again.

boring conference call leads to mind wandering leads to fun with toys on desk....

I just wanted to give a heads up that Aqua Surf Shop is sponsoring this Sunday's beach clean up at Sloat. Everyone who picks up a bag of trash will receive a raffle ticket for a new Greenbrew skateboard. Also, all tickets are good for a free bar of wax. The clean up will be Sunday from 10-12pm at Sloat. I'll provide bags and gloves, so all you need to do is show up some time in that window. Beverages will be provided afterwards at Aqua. See ya there.

yeah. i was so bummed not to get some waves! according to blakestah, the winds are switching around. figures.

nice pix. e, you got style.

Fuck with the bull........

SOL, ah thanks j, that was good for a laugh or several. yikes, e, thought OB looked sorta fun driving by this morn on the way to some silly onshore Lindamar. kinda glad now that mi ola amiga who is just getting her surf legs was with me--don't think I could have handled the ol ass-on-a-platter routine this morn! Way to find some happiness in it though!

How's it lookin fer tomorrow morn?

pez, true. word homie. e cool pics! j, haha I have gumbi on my computer.. soooo.. I love stitching/sewing my own wetsuit.. damn ripcurl. And damn aqua-tape crap that comes out 2 months after I buy a brand new wetsuit. Oh well, maybe SC journ today. Niceness BBQ this weekend? :)

ah, and nice pics--dig the body-jive spray-throwin shot.

Ice cream headache research: "The cause is a dilation of blood vessels in the head. The dilation may be caused by a nerve center located above the roof of your mouth - when this nerve center gets cold, it seems to over-react and tries to heat your brain."

By chance I found a technique that helps. Open your mouth as wide as possible and take very slow but deep breaths. Seems that the slow breathing allows the air to warm somewhat before getting into your lungs and shaking hands with your bloodstream. Works for me, at least. Of course, E, this may look kinda' silly in the line-up and ruin your elegant style.

Sorry the pics aren't higher quality. . . Between the fog and the mist and the inner bar OB just sucks for photography (unless you're Mexisurf).

Hi all, so, i just graduated from college and am off on one last spasm before i join you guys with the dp's before work. leaving later in april, I'm gonna have 2.5 weeks in Brisbane/Sydney area, then 2.5 weeks in Tahiti. I'll be travelling solo in australia and for a week in tahiti until i meet up with a buddy who's showing up with a boat.

I just wanted to tap into the vast knowledge and stoke of E's to get any inside info that i can and recomendations of cheap places to crash near surf. I'm an intermediate surfer, so i'm not gonna be charging t-poo. not bringing a board, but maybe picking one up in AU.

anybody that wants to spread their scoop can email me at

Thanks for the reads E

If I had a quarter for every sesh stuck in OB chunder, a dime for every bonefrigidizing reverseprogress duckdive, a penny for every yard swept south or northh....... I would be Trent Trustafar with a phat ass quiver and more airmiles logged to warm places than a Canadian Goose

OB- what a bastion of emotional and sensory oveload

E- remember this day in a few weeks when throwing phat warm Nica buckets. But please come home from CA . This office job loses luster without the Niceness report and daily vibe
Humble, thankful surfer community- rare and valued

i have some cool Nica shots but don't know how to post photos
Peace, Pimpless

nice steama..

umm. to post pics.. type

shift+comma img src="http://www.steama.com/sicknicaphoto1.jpg" shift+period

the shift+comma and shift+period are the left and right carrot symbols but.. they probably won't come up in this tutorial because they get interpreted by the html renderer.

the pics have to be on the we already.. not on your desktop.. if they're on your desktop, feel free to send them to me at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com and i'll post em'..

siiick..

back to work.. mercury emissions.. nasty!

e, upwelling occurs when the spring trades (nw wind) blow across the warmer surface water which causes churn bringing up colder water from the deep. certain facing secluded coves such as the one you surfed last weekend are where you can feel the affect of this year round.

aborted dp attempt at a beach further south. looking a lot like spring. had the skate and carved empty beach parking lot feeding the jones. now in cube land it's con call hell from here on out. thank goodness for skateboards.

wishing everyone to find a way to flow freely this weekend.

I saw all the talk about F----'s yesterday and had to tell my own story. I grew at the north end of Big Sur and as a kid surfed every little nook and cranny on that stretch including the Monterey Peninsula and Moss Landing.
Once as a young grom I was surfing a little cove just north of F---'s...it was unusually good with slightly overhead glassy barrels like I'd never seen at this spot before. I must've had an hour of solo session in which I had one of the best times of my life. A pack of 6 guys who were probably in their 40's paddled out and I instantly recognized them as the older Fullers crew. Immediately they started yelling at me to get out of the water and go back to the valley.... I stood my ground as I felt that I had every reason to be there and they actually circled me and started trying to take shots at my head. I was f'in pist as I was only about 15 at the time...surfing way better than any of them...and all in my own backyard were guys as old as my own father taking shots at me. I could deal with this if it was actually in the lineup at F----'s, but this was a spot that rarely ever broke and there were tons of waves coming in.
Anyway, my point is that I know a lot of the guys down there and I understand their passion for that spot and that stretch of coat...most of the true locals are cool....but most of the real asses are trust fund middle aged guys from Carmel. You never know who you're gonna get down there.
Real surfers are travelling surfers and everyone at some point is going to be the outsider trying to get waves on someone else's turf. Respect the locals...that point has been lost it seems. And if you are a local...enforce this code when necessary but don't become that bitter 43 year-old throwing punches at a teenager...
Just another rant I guess....

nice post el gato

BTW: The first shot E posted of the steep drop on a left is Suneil Thomas,my personal attorney, AKA "The Angry Indian." Suneil spent 3 months in the Maldives this fall as a surf guide, only to return for a southern atolls boat trip last week. Bastard.

Anyway nice drop Suneil, it looks like Ocean Beach has begun outsourcing some of the better lefts to India.

Niceness: your waves shall be blessed and your secret spots shall be empty this weekend. Enjoy!!!

-the fairy princess of s. san mateo county

who's got my lunchtime beach report? blakestah says it's cleaning up, surfline shot looks pretty clean compared to surfpulse cam. who's the man on the scene today?

about to loose this job so I want to take full advantage of the friday ditch out before it isn't available anymore

....surfing...golf....surfing...golf...surfing?

I woke early for my hunting trip, looked in front of e's stretch. Not for me. Went to another bar, that was looking better, still not great, and I wrote it off to exercise. 15 duckdives and I'm out, grab a few mushy windswelly waves, and head in. Winds shifted while I was out, started blowing offshore. Figures. Got my arms worked out and such, and grabbed a few RFS turns.

For ice cream headaches. There was this surfer here named Mike who always let his Australian Shepherd dog, named Buddy, run loose while he surfed. The dog would cross the Great Highway several times, roam all over Fort Point, etc, but stayed out of trouble. Anyway, Mike had a veritable forest in his scalp, and claimed you shouldn't worry about ice cream headaches - they go away after about the 12th duckdive, and won't bother you after that. Mike was full-on niceness, hasn't been around for 4-5 years or so. I'm sure kdalle remembers him - this was back when he and I saw each other regularly.

Shipped another unit today...for a fun/longboard.

Winds this weekend are forecast to be a little better...we're always on the cusp of rideable surf...just gotta wake early, and see how the winds blew last night...if they've been under 15 knots since 2 AM, it is time to surf.

Letmepretend:

The coast in btw Sydney and Brisbane is unreal. Great camping spots. Super scenic. Every set up imaginable for surf....points, reefs, miles of beach break. I would look around in between the Coff's Harbor and Crescent Head area's. Buy the NSW surf guide, its pretty good.

I would get out of Sydney and stay short of the Brisbane area if you want to get waves without ridiculous crowds.

Damn I could use a trip to Australia, have fun.

I live above that 'secret' spot in Nth P-town. Was windy from the north till around an hour ago, it's settled to just a few knots and looks like it may turn. One guy out blue board poo-stance) and he's getting some. If you can make it now, go, 'cause it may just be a lull. 'Course it may fully switch too....

OB: Ta-dah! I'm almost afraid to pin an obsevation down...what the heck is it doing out here? Odd, changeable day. Water surface
( from middle to outside ) seems fairly smooth, weird wind swooshing either straight from the north or almost offshore NE - I keep sticking my head out the window trying to guess. Heavy, serious juice and swell busting in [ or it was? ]...it's fast and powerful, been throwing crushing lips far out all morning. Yes some outside bars sometimes throwing too. Inside closeouts looked like they could take your head right off, though that board-breaking vibe has mellowed slightly over the last hour. Size...hm shoulder to clear OH plus on the outsiders that don't mush. It doesn't look crossed up but the peaks are fickle and despite minimal rows of whitewater, the paddle out looks bitchin'! . I bet it's working excellently on other parts of this coast. Could be excellent here too, but bring lots of time, patience, perfect timing, and rhino arm stregth. Also a motor on the back of your board to chase down those speedy monsters. Also a buoyant exeskeleton to protect your bones from wipeouts. Binocular sweep reveals a very scant few peeps out.

Dagnabbit I just checked again and now the wind has mellowed out, offshore? Waves down too, plus now the inside is more mixed. Farking no idea. Changing all over the place, fast. Will it get better, will it get worse? Worth a gamble? Sunny with vague haze, unless it's my dirty windows. Will it hold, and what is it holding anyway?

Will come back if there's a radical change. Cheers,

I'm baked. Got brutalized too this morning. Started at Kirkham ended up at Pacheco by the time I got out. Ditched the longboard and swam to get past the cracks.
ITISCLEANING UPATTHISHOUR

Sargent S.S., your observations are very descriptive and always appriciated!

March on soldier.

Leg is feeling better. Three days without surf and I'm getting depressed. I'm taking the afternoon off to hit it.

Off-topic but amazing...you think surfing Pollutica is extreme...check out this bit of extreme tripping for a mindbending jouney through entropy to the nth power.

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/kiddofspeed/

From 8-10am kelly's was pretty good...surfed in front of the beach challet, fighting the mad-dog current to stay in place, but some sweet waves coming through. Lotsa dudes out, lotsa waves too, but damn that water is cold today. I think this was the coldest I've been all winter- but this was the best sesh all week.

that sucks.

but it could have been worse.

i was up at 5:40 and packing my shit to come look for you tranny ass kooks but my laptop booted up just in time and i made pancakes instead.

#46026 is 6.9 @11.....low tide of .1 and buoys N bigger?

Oh...there will be waves. And i will be riding them.

Is it just me, or Is golf the most elitist, sexist, racist sport known to man? I know a quick way to solve all the lack of housing issues in San Francsico...Let's put track homes on the 18 holes where people drive around in their little carts and wear ridiculous pants w/ argyle socks. After the golf courses we can develop the cemetaries. Watch out Colma, here we come!

tom.. why do ya have to rub it in. bizniaatcch!

fark... how can i get me a schedule like yours!!

enjoy my friend.. enjoy that shit.

you have to become a soul surfer first.

give away all material posessions and reject capitalism.

live to ride, ride to live.

be not what you drive, become one with what you ride.....

...there are very few of us left

tasmanian bestiality

I was out at the north end of OB from 7-8. Got outside, went over the falls on one wave, and was rejected geating back out. Massive ice cream headache.

just came back from kelly's and it's going off. many, many barrels with rippers inside. many people sprinting from parking lot to water. south end is bigger and windier - with the sole surfer catching big, long rides.
get out while you can!

being a soul surfer is a state of mind - it is possible with only you and the water - even possible with you and a crowd - the important part is what is inside your head - there is no need to have no possessions - there is no need to have them - it is what is inside your head that counts. If you are a true soul surfer, no one can take that away.

See the wave, join the wave.

Hope your leg heals, kdalle. I'm retrofitting the Hinds with a rotating fin, and I want you to test-pilot if for a few rides.

rza - wu-tang clan dropping knowledge..

at least somebody's out there gettin' some..

the "rza" comments reminded me of this funny bit i picked up off some music freak's blog:

Have you ever noticed the random text that comes in spam nowadays looks just like the lyric sheet for a Ghostface Killah record? Seriously, look at these lines and try to guess which ones are Ghostface rhymes, and which are taken from spam I got tonite (with commas added):

A) "coconut civilian, 87 lexicon"

B) "alfalfa archer, intense caramel breadwinner"

C) "photographic magic, funeral love"

D) "tyco nightglow, velvet pose"

E) "nice DNA, scroll genetics"

F) "desert athletic, champagne distributor"

feral is for real. right on tom!

The nominees for biggest paddle in wave of the year...
MONSTER BIGGEST PADDLE-IN AWARD
Greg Long (California, USA) at Dungeons, SA
Alex Martins (Brazil) at Maverick's
Zach Wormhoudt (California, USA) at Maverick's

South winds this AM in SC. WTF!

Good luck to Alex!

ghostface is the man. "36 chambers" is my favorite hiphop album ever.

trying to figure out whether to drive to long beach tonight for this or stick around, save my gas money and surf OB all weekend. back is finally back up to speed and i'm dying for a surf!

kdalle, that URL links to some heavy stuff. Man, what a mess. Pollutica never looked so good.

yeah paul b.....great analogy. maybe it's ghostface (and raekwon) behind all that spam we get....deciphering lyrics is the best part about quality rap - but ghost and rae create words just to rhyme!

if anyone's looking for some new raps, check out onry ozzborn or some pre/post-apocalyptic darkness from nephlim modulation systems.

Ride like Alex! Live like TOM!

agreed.. though.. as a friend and envious observer of Tom's lifestyle.. he may be "soul" deep down, but soulfully bereft of possessions he's not. Dude's got the pimpin' crib, (used to) have the pimpin' SUV ride, he's got the pimpin' huge quiver.. he's basically strait pimpin'... though retains the soulful-flow no doubt. in fact he's probably in the barrel right about now.

Tom-

Send me an email with your phone number or give me a call.

Stevo from Sloat is having a gathering Sat @ 4pm and he really wants you there.

guys, 3:49 pm, the Jetty is throwin' double O tubes and triple high, offshore plumes. Give me a couple hours or so and then it's all yours.

still pimpin' and still searchin'

egp

OB: just back from walking le pooch on the beach while a realtor runs rampant in my place. Grr. UH, anyway, trusty dog-fur-o'-meter indicates very mild NW onshores. Sunny, warm, but inside is totally crunched up, all over more crunched up. At least as far as I could see from the beach walk. Due to light winds other spots still goodly surfable?

wow.. shifty peaks at Rockaway, these thick-ass barrels were breaking in about 2 ft. of water. I wish I had a water-proof to take out there, would've been some cool lookin shots. Shared them with my good friend.The only thing it reminded me of is pictures I've seen of Murph's bar, and Tpoo (scaled down about 100 times.) they were no larger than shoulder high but they way they were sucking out from the inner sandbar was insane! Anyway it was really fun even though it looked like rubbish from the lot. Sounds like n.ob is best?

mandalacustomshapes.com

...drool...

ian you love rockaway!

schweet.

E, nice pics from OB! Looking like you are getting up to the lip. Good to see!

I still got the Fishy Death Sled for ya when you want it. Tonight perhaps? Let me know as I am rolling south for the weekend.

nice pics eeeeeeeeeeeeee. specially like the pit.

e, it's not my fav spot, just seems to me most consist. when a lot of other places in my driving range are poo. jake, word! tyhose pics of garret on the big wave site, say sandy beach. what... They don't mean on the east side do they? maybe bbr can confirm. that's where I grew up and I've NEVER seen it like that.

word.. kaiser - yeah mon.. thanks so much for the generosity! hmm.. maybe i'll just pick that shit up next week though as i'm busy tonight..

Jake.. word.. it's funny but i don't even remember that wave.

gnarly.

E, you didn't post the best one. Superman would be proud!

Sloat was full of spring-like niceness from 2-4.

blakestah-huzzzaaah. I been waiting for RFS for the geriatric set. rsvp when it's good to go!

e-what's your take on how the waves Bruce shot felt vs. how they look?

yeah, what kdalle said.. that first wave looks nice and meaty e! very sick looking wave, any coverage on that puppy? A little stallage and you'd be pitted for daaaaays.

most of you reading this probably understand that my "soul surfer" post was in jest.

in my mind.....the description of a "soul surfer" does not exist anyplace. other than in each of our mindsand it is always open to changes and interpretations. the standards are different for each surfer. we all have our own criteria and mine is a criteria I could never meet personally and almost all surfers don't meet it.

it is a label that i feel is the highest compliment one can bestow on a surfer they respect so ya can't just give the honor away.

however no one who call's themselves a "soul surfer" can ever really be a "soul surfer"

i personally have only met a few "soul surfers"...some rip and some just glide but it's not what happens on the wave(maneuvars/trim speed/wave size/equipment) that makes them soul. (although a certain level of competence is required in my personal thoughts of what a soul surfer is)

but criteria #1 is certainly a devotion to the ocean and many of you who read and many of you who post on this site surely have that.

Ethan on my list has completed many of the requirements for the title and with time who knows? (skill level, dedication, ocean understanding, travel, knowledge, respect, community etc.)

For those who know Pez....you can see some "soul" in him for reasons I won't divulge here.

Odd Todd?...pretty soul in my book.

Rastovich and Donavon? Uh....n'op. (although surfing so well that you get paid to travel all over to perfect waves with buddies is pretty souly)

But a soul surfer I'm not in my opinion. And I don't think I ever will be......

I want to be a "good tube rider" "a guy with a good roundhouse" "a guy who throws buckets" " a charger"

but for now? ...just a regular surfer with a solid bottom turn (who occasionaly can snatch the wave of the day!)

and a sarcastic mofo...

i just want to be a guy who's drunk....but dammit if something at work done broke

ahhh, so niceness this eve! Geez that was nice. Perfect spot, fun, almost clean waves, no one around but a handful of smiling, clued-in terra firma folks chilling and walking with dogs and loved ones. got to wish the sun bon voyage too (bye big fire ball, have a good one, see you early on the other horizon!). So pleasantly blissed right now that I'm thinking you're ALL soul surfers! Cheers! Jake, don't know ya, but you're the man--un amor from this beautiful stretch of coast to your spot in the sun!
goodonya'll ~B

love, henri

cheers, henri!

damn sexy outfit, that.

Ahhh... there might be a little "soul" hiding in Tom.

weekendedness tail end of the friday posts. Boy that fog line is the fun guv'ner. It moves in and clean bails. Definitely glad I got out, although it was partly staying on top of the joneses. Random thought/question: Is OB the best spot or what for preparing to surf anywhere else? Lately it even provides crowd surfing skill development. If you get to SC midweek, some of those waves are soo...easy, perfect, predictable to get into and ride. Today made a lot of really good surfers look average.

Banjo, I dunno.. I always wonder does surfing a lot in crap waves make you a better surfer for perfect waves, or does surfing in perfect waves make you a better surfer in crap waves? I dunno.. maybe it's both.

I hope for help
Did anyone know keli everett???
Thanks

Ian, good comment. Some of it has to come down to water time. Conditions so sucky that you know it wouldn't work are unproductive. But a lot of times OB is just big and surfable, but challenging. I once saw Sean Thompson go out at Kelly's after I had a miserable surf in cross-chop, onshore jumble that kept throwing me off my board. He caught two waves and went in. It was so cool watching a great surfer struggle with the same side vectors as me. OB levels the playing field, and for me makes it easier to deal with challenging conditions elsewhere. Maybe its typical lack of predicability takes something off developing pro-level chops. The best rock climbers are (were?) toproping to preview where to do what. You can't sit on a lineup here and work on one thing. But I'm still learning lots. Like how different conditions here, even in the same general wave size, suggest different boards. Lately I'd love to have a fish. Different style of surfing. Fog surfing - not.

Keli Everett, young surfer from Hana? I talked to him briefly over a year ago. Why?

RE schooling at OB: I could yak forever about this, will spare you folks but my overall impression is it's damn tough but OB is a fantastic teacher. Farking Difficult to get rides but going to other local breaks [ when I was consistent here, pre injury ] I realized I'd taken things with me, or at least sped up the learning process, that I didn't know I had. Figuring out duckdiving, reading weird waves, and of course, becoming familiar with the beatings!

to s.s. sharkbait
jeah, right the young surfer from hana-maui. i meet him 3weeks ago in miami and i will fly to maui this summer to learn more surfing because you can not learn wave surfing in germany, but you can learn wind surfing and kite surfing.

Nice shots of OB, Are you professor clueless?

shift+comma img src="http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/redwood20042000/detail?.dir=/177e&.dnm=55a2.jpg" shift+period

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