E's Surf Report

uhh...e...i hope you're joking on the skipping your writing, or starting to cut it short. your writing style is great and often helps me look at things in a different light than i usually would, or to stop and look at something i usually take for granted, so keep it up. i mean, the conversation rules, too, but your writing style is good.

(i felt like i was in one of those conversations w/ a girlfriend "i like you because you've got a great personality...i mean you're hot too, don't get me wrong, but i mean...uhh..")

anyways, rock on kiddies, it's hump day.

Da JUICE is loose! Looks like we have some action on the SF Bouy! 5.2 @ 16 right now. Ah, lunch is going to be tasty for sure.

Ah, E, keep up the writing, just channel it. I can't write so I gotta be funny. Just like I can't surf but I can go for every wave that comes within reach and try to surf it. Besides, it is YOUR site anyway. All of us clowns on the outside are just bit'n off ya anyway. Stick to your deal, the cronies out here in Comment-Land will just regulate when you over step or go down some psychodelic path we don't understand.

SURF. SURF. SURF. Today, we all can SURF!!!!!!!

Um-- OK, I just got off the phone with DICK Cheney, and this is my new HOMELAND SECURITY theory;
Anyone who surfs a break more than ONE MILE from where they live is a NON-LOCAL and WILL BE TREATED AS SUCH. This means dealing with frequint drop-ins, windsheild wax-ups and your basic scowling looks-- if not that FIVE MILE STARE. Not only that-- you gotta have lived at your current adress AT LEAST 3 YEARS.
The next time I go to hate point (.6 mi from my doorstep) I will distribute handy water-proof ID cards to my buds and to THOSE WHO QUALIFY!!!!! You know who you are. SORRY BUT.. enough with the niceness allready, I AM HERE TO PROVIDE SOME KIND OF BALANCE. It came to me in a sweat lodge.
Jackson Pollock is worshiped for being a drooling DRUNK who blew chunks. DeKooning COULDN'T EVEN DRAW. Margaret Keene RULES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I gotta go take my meds now.

e,

Don't change what you're doing. Your report sets the tone for day/comments, plus since a lot of us aren't hitting DP as often as you are, we have to live vicariously through your morning session.

i think everyone looks forward to hearing your perspective on the mornings session. conditions, who was on it, if anyone got a decent one etc.

i mean we all have built in calibrators at this point to discount the days when you claim is was "en fuego" (i personally don't mind when you say the PM session is going to be "en fuego" and plot to kill you when you say the dawn patrol was "en fuego") but most surfers know why that is. we just hate to hear we missed it and so we shoot messengers.

but in my opinion, the comments section usually get's hijacked by a question, observation, or surrent event and it sort's it self out but it and the site needs the daily rambling to stimulate the need to check in....

E- knock off that self-critical crap right now! Your writing is refreshing, interesting, fun, thought-provoking, and flashback-inducing for the senior citizen hippies in the crowd. Takes me back to my grom days in San Diego hitching a ride (with board) to Swamis in a beat-up station wagon listening to new rock (i.e., Zepplin) at full volume while discussing Buddist philosophy. Before things turned ugly and commercial, that was a magic time. I was struck meeting you and CK and some of the younger crew how much you reminded me of my closest friends back then. Full of life and good karma. So "write on" brah.

(But can we please forget about the dark days of disco and leisure suits?)

cool. thanks headies.. though i wasn't fishin' for compliments or anything.. i more just wanted to pass on that most people i talk to are super psyched on the community and what all of you have to say.

but calling balkestah cocky and bad vibe scary ain't niceness.

shit some fool one day may even try and say some shit about me.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it

OB: small, crunchy, shifty, gutless, probably surfable. No one now but there's been one or two bobbing at random, and not necessarily with longboards. Sunny with encroaching haze, increasing texture on water and of course onshores anticipated any minute.

s.s. sealmeat: hysterical. Totally embarrassing, looking into that mirror , but I laughed my ass off. How the heck did you know about my soft-top chin rash?!

Yeah e, your writing is dope. When's BASE Mag coming out?!?!

Killer fecalface pics too. Good stuff.

I did the drive this morning and was less than enthused by what I saw. That's one of my biggest problems, getting stoked by marginal conditions when I'm going solo. If I'm with friends, I'm much more likely to suit up when it's crummy.

shucks, I dig how you lay it all out there--awfully refreshing in a world full of posing and hidden agendas. If art is a window into an individual's life and that person's surroundings/culture, this is a daily dose of fascinating art. the site helps keep me semi-sane at my desk, top to bottom. Besides, watching writing develope is a true pleasure (mine sucks!)--if you started editing yourself, I know I'd be bummed.
cheers!

the blakestah and BVB observations where actually verbatim remarks that people have asked me in person.

for what it's worth blakestah can maybe come off like that out of context and in the web universe.. but in reality he's just one super-stoked and knowledgeable fellow. he frickin loves surfing! no doubt.

BVB - people have said things to me after seeing/reading the BVB interview. and from all the people that actually know the guy, everybody says he's a friendly, intelligent, if not a little bitter, dude... and a good surfer.

i too am uber psyched on the comments....and the niceness community has opened up a whole 'nuther side of surfing for me. the banter...the personalities...the shared stoke...and, frick, even the disagreements/ranting...contribute to take slurfing beyond the "simple" act of riding pulses of liquid energy to something greater...something that helps sustain me through the windblown crap at the beach AND the shiet that inevitably creeps into my daily life.

that said...e...it is your opening comments that set the stage. i dig hearing about the facts (tide, wind, swell, etc.)...and about the ledgey, pitchin, down-the-line lefts...but i also dig the psychedelic tales. in fact...while the tales of the great waves might instill more instantaneous stoke...the mental musings (a la "The Land that Time Forgot") are the ones that stick out to me and stay in my head long after. you have a gift with the creative and i say go with it if the spirit moves.

E- your lead-in today reminded me of the way that most teens and twentys speak these days. You know that awkward rise in tone for each sentence, with intermittent pauses or simile intros thrown in. So that every, uh, declaratory sentence, uh, becomes like, a question or something, you know?

Do what you do and have confidence in it. When you receive criticism, take it in and build on what you do, or dismiss that criticism.

so it becin younger

e, I love reading your reports and daydreams. I work at home and surf the Kounty as you do. I see you out in the mornings once in a while and get a kick out of the way you summarize the conditions in the water. Your always right on so the days I'm not out in the mornings I have a perfect understanding of what I missed, or didn't miss. Don't change a thing. This is the best thing going on the web to date.

See you tomorrow morning,
Shralp.

Yeah, and don't forget to delete artifacts from your rough draft.

i hear you about the way peoples post come off. in fact bad vibe told me i come off too serious in my posts.....when in fact i'm usually attempting to be sarcastic. so no need to explain as i was being facetious in that post as well.

but yeah bad vibe is as you described but i would say minus the bitter part. oh yeah the good surfer part is probably an extremely conservative assessment.

i don't know blakestah, but he know's his shit inside and out and clearly loves to surf.

but if you don't like someone just skip there posts. howard stern who is paid to attract millions of listeners tells people all the time....."don't listen"

My three week hell is ending. back to the beach!!
Good to see the photo of Tiffany's (and the others) work on the site. She is a dear friend and a very stoked surfer. Keep writing, keep editing; mom the english teacher said that writing is nine tenths editing...

My explanation (but not my photo) of the meaning of life. Nat Young and a pal remind us what's what.

I wanna give shouts to both e and the whole community here on creating this space and spreading the positivity. it's refreshing and reassuring to read literate, passionate, happy-vibed comments (most of the time) from a group of people that I would say are the antithesis of the sterotypical surfer. we've all met the raging, jocko meatheads who are in the water to flex their muscles and claim dominion over all waves - but this sites proves there is a more considerate type of surfer and that it's ok to not use the word 'dude' in every sentence. while at the same time this community has also forced me to become more understanding of perspectives different from mine, and not hate those who do use the word 'dude' in every sentence. if nothing else, this site shows the many facets of those who ride waves and encourages all to show repect and love.

thanks everyone. and thanks e, for creating and nuturing this communtiy.

e, you're a gifted writer, keep it coming man.

i'm so stoked and often amazed at what your site has developed into. it seems like yesterday when it was you, me, mwsf, and robme posting with an occassional post from someone that happened upon the site.

Sunny, Glassy and Fun
Awesome conditions and more flowery writing

lerm: yeah that was fun this morning
robme: awe, i have a sinus infection
mwsf: couldn't get out of bed until 10am, it was blown out by the time I got to the beach.

so many kewl and interesting personalities here. we need to have a niceness brunch again soon!

So.. Tom, will SC be good? Or is it good? ;) haha just messin.. no I'm not. Wait, yes.

e - Jeeze, don't listen to critics who admit they usually skip reading your stuff! Your writing style is what makes this place unique - it goes a long way to set the tone for comments from the rest of us. Dumbing-down your writing style, or simplyfying your openers to just a surf report and pictures would be BORING!
I think the fact that you are even thinking like that may be linked to whatever caused you to pass up getting in the water today. I prescribe an arvo sesh (regardless of conditions) and check in with us tomorrow morning; preferably with one of your flowery, surrealistic aquatic fairy-tales! I LOVE that shit!

E-

I spent a beautiful 10 months unemployed, surfing my a** off while living in SF. I would surf 2-3x a day and all of my friends who were workin' folks would dial me up for the low-down on current conditions. Now I am back in a grind, I go to work so early i can't do Dawn patrols. I surf 2x/week now. I look forward every day to reading your report, its the only thing that keeps me in tune w/ conditions better than blakestah's report and also keeps the stoke alive. Keep on Keepin' on, the banter's good but your words & pics are better. they are the foundation of all the banter. here's to niceness & glassiness

Lerm, I was just going to state the same thing. This place has a lot of characters for sure. I recall the days of reading what E, Lerm, Robme and MWSF were surfing for months and months. I just kept asking myself, "who the fuck are these people? I am surfing right next to them EVERY freakin morning?"

Lead the way with your opening call they way you want.

However, who the hell is taking over while you and Lerminator are killing it in centro america?

word, rza, and word to e and all the niceness heads. as ob surfers, we are a unique surf community. the beach is like few other surf spots as it combines a very urban location with a completely wild and (mostly) empty feel. i think the community reflects that- the lack of surf nazis is at least partially due to to the fact that, unlike the crew at the lane or other crowed spots, we don't have to fight like rabid dogs among ourselves to get waves. that allows us to get more in touch with the other, deeper, aspects of the sport. and e does a good job bringing that out. I have no idea if this is true, but i doubt that you would find a blog and online comunity like this in san clemente.

E: for Esoteric, Etheral, and always Entertaining...

BLANK GENERATION REDUX:

Missed morning by a minute so now it's afternoon...

Do people really surf before noon?
E - this machine has taken over our lives - good and bad - mostly good in that it spawns writing - and maybe your vibe is a bit flowery at times but we all make ourselves sick. I write in to break up the monotony of my weirdly psychotic sometimes busy and intense life of mainly leisure. I reread the stuff I write on this post and I can't believe my crackheads perspective... these people must think I'm a right weirdo - which I am. Nothing to fear.
I have to write or I will die - I don't mean here but on my own.
The art posting today was interesting as were the comments by BBT - Bad Breathe Todd, about the localism thing - who is that guy?
The folks who surf Toxic Point are a lucky lot - "The Gromms" have improved by leaps and bounds - I remember their earlier days and it wasn't pretty -. Now that some of them are out of jail and matured they can make something of their lives.
A lot of folks lay claim to the break and they can - must be 200 people who've beee surfing it since time began. I suggest goggles if you're going to surf it these days ; they're sand blasting the old cement off the south tower and the NW wind ...- you get the picture.
So E - don't trip - that pot you're smoking at wrok is making you paranoid... small doses dude!
Springtime is a good time to be mysterious - hundreds of us disbursed from the beach headed in a million different directions. I used to frequent a rightbreaking reef in SC. What an easy wave. Summer trips to So Cal ahead.
The last three years on Oahu the South swells hit in April and May.

BONG
I've never seen DB in the water.

i concur...

what they said...

for sheezy my neezy's

foshizzle my nizzle!

E-
There is no shame in yo game. Keep pushing your writing steez.

ditto.

BTW, been sick for a week but finally got a short session in this morning. Who the heck left the pool cover off last night? That water is deeeaamn cold. I hate spring.

in total agreement with everyone on the mutual appreciation of the positivity vibe that is constantly found on these postings-
was looking at some other posting last night from other sites and wow- that aggro, violent, get off my wave or i'll kick your ass contingency abounds -
do these people actually enjoy surfing or is it just an excuse to be a macho dick?
I haven't met any of you folks, but it's good to know when I'm out at OB that there are some cool folks in the water that are promoting the positivity.

i'm just going to repeat what i said yesterday:

bagel, hotpants, calendar.

no, just kidding. hee hee. i'm sorry bagel. :) what i meant to repeat was this: nicecess fcuking rocks. i totally dig your morning essays, e. it takes confidence to stand up and say: "fcuk yeah, i'm so psyched about this!!!" especially if it's just another day in the life.

this relates to something that still surprises me often, and that bruce's pic sort of touched on. some people can play it SO cool and i seriously don't know how they do it...that is some kind of amazing control. but anyway: keep it up. rock on, right on, fo'shizzlefizzlegodizzle.

friendly...i have to agree that some people are sooooo damn serious in the water!...hell it's got to take some effort to suppress the pure joy of just sitting out in the ocean on a beautiful...or even a cold and grey day. Sounds kind of like....work.

Niceness crew the deal
Words wisdom E keep it real
Flow feathering peel

afternoon cubicle haiku schpeel

friendly indeed...well like i said, if kaisers on the cover, E's mr. january, and Robme's Mr. september than im in..

Niceness is cool, yada, yada, yada.....

I have a surf report: Lindy is marginal. LHAGWMV or Uskey was out with a few other usual suspects. New swell was evident with a periodic 3-wave set here and there. Nothing great but fun out there if you can make it out for a few merely do the weather. Waves a bit crossed up to say the least. More windswell then groundswell.
Water = cold
Wind = onshore but not terrible
Waves = marginal
Day = beautiful

There you have it.

any updates on ob? withstanding the wind or done for the day?

I gotta jump on with friendly and jdz. Most of the time, even in generally friendly SF, people are WAAAY to serious in the water. I've told this story before in other forums, forgive me if I've already told it here.
A beautiful sunny day, somewhere west of The Great Highway. Pretty glassy, shoulder to headhigh, tons of waves - everybody is gettin' some. Nonetheless, the NO SMILING rule is in full effect. Everybody is lookin' all grumpy and serious like they just got back from the doctor's with some BAD news. I'm cruisin' on a nice left, when I see my friend Bobby paddling out, hootin' me with a big grin on his face. As I'm paddling back out I can hear Bobby, laughing and hootin' other riders - generally having a good time. Some of the other surfers are giving him dirty looks, a couple are shaking their heads and muttering to themselves. I get up to Bobby just as a nice peak pops up right outside of us. I say, "Which way ya gonna go, Bobby?" He says, "I don't care! LET'S GO TOGETHER!" LET'S GO TOGETHER!? What a concept - sharing a wave with your bro, just for the FUN of it! I actually missed the wave I was laughing too hard!

Surfer killed by Shark at Kahana Beach off Maui today.

Hey E, Here's a little constructive cristicism- Stop being a WANKER!! If you truly feel compelled to express yourself then DO IT!!Don't worry about what others think because in the end it really does'nt matter what they think.Do it for YOU and others will be inspired to do the same.We need more people in this world who do things because they are inspired to.Your one of them and that gives me hope.So,don't look for affirmation from others to make you feel accepted because eventually you'll start to appease them and lose some of your self.EXPRESS YOSELF!!
Peace
P.S. Stop whining about ice cream headaches it does'nt help.

A 57-year-old Kahana, Maui, resident died this morning after he was attacked by a shark at Pohaku Beach.
Police received a call about a surfer in distress about 7:08 a.m. at S-turns, a surf spot fronting the Noelani Condominium Resort in Kahana. Police also received additional calls that the victim was bleeding and being helped to shore by others.

Police reported that the victim suffered injuries to his right leg that were consistent with a shark bite.

The 57-year-old man suffered severe lacerations to his upper right thigh and mid-calf, police said. The victim was surfing about 300 yards from shore, police said. A witness saw the victim turning back out to sea after missing a wave when the attack occurred.

Police said the surfer died despite efforts by bystanders, police and paramedics.

The identification of the victim was being withheld pending notification of relatives on the mainland.

On Nov. 5, 1992, Aaron Romento was killed by a shark while bodyboarding off Keeau Beach Park in Leeward Oahu.

ha ha.. i hear ya todular.. but.. if i listen to your advice about expressing myself and not bowing to criticism then your comment about not whining about ice-cream headaches should be dutifully ignored. consider it so.

live video from bells beach

tonight = band practice = raging unperturbed through mega-sonic transfusions = bubonic chronic = channeling interpersonal musical symphonic harmonic scionic expressions = don't curb the herb = embalming hum = Hans Blix and the Inspectors (our band name).

Damn...you got me on that one.. I take back the p.s. and THAT'S IT!! peace

kaiser - good on ya for scoring waves.. I'm really happy to hear that someone else is scoring.. yadda yadda yadda..

beeaaatchh!!

naw.. that's cool.. lunchtime seshy!

anyone else having concentration issues right now?

for friendly's calendar? (sorry guys)

e - dig the feedback from your site. I was somewhat shaped by the feedback on mine. It's tough to look back on old stuff and groove on it. Many people have told me that they admire the obvious stoke that comes from being newer to surfing and ready to go each day - and they read your report specifically for this reason. I've heard this comment enough times to believe there are a lot of people who feel that way about your writing, and they all dig it (not to mention, they think you are a really good writer).

Personally, I dug seeing the reports from a die-hard - you were going out and having a blast on days I once considered too crappy to surf. I started not only surfing those days, but enjoying it more. And for that I cannot thank you enough. Each year I keep thinking we are going to have the pleasure of watching you metamorphose into an outer bar surfer, maybe this is not for everyone, but I think you can handle it with ease.

As for whether I am cocky - real life personalities may not be the same as online personalities. Until you meet someone face to face, you never know.

Will these winds hold for tomorrow...it seems unlikely, but I'll check my magic eight ball when I get home and update the report.

wow, looks like we got a real suck fest going on here today.

flame away

E, man you inspire to surf more, enjoy life more, stay positive, enjoy music, get trippy... thanks for the impact buddy. Please keep on writing, you have inspired me to write... actually, just a couple of weeks ago I thought to myself that your writing had improved, not that it wasn't good to begin with, but that your voice had developed over time and you have become particularly adept at expressing yourself and, anyway, it has helped spark my desire to write more regularly as I hope I might develop as you have. Peace, man... and thanks again.

kind bud, you give kind bud a bad name... can't take away that posi-smell, though... :)

Hans Blix and the Inspectors- thats a killa name. y'all ready for the return of winter juice tomorrow?

how's a guy find bandmembers in this town besides craigslist? shit, I just want to jam, guess I should set up shop in front of Haight/Ashbury Music Center like everyone else.

E, let's hear some MP3's of Hans Blix and the Inspectors.

barney - i'm down with jammin' whenever homie. i have a good space for it too.. until around 10:30pm or so. let me know when you can get down.

cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

hey anyone got any good cheapish ideas for a saturday night romantic get away?? kaiser, your not invited.

bagel@doublefine.com

mick lowe, nice turn!

occy hack

e: yup gotta chime in on the praise for this site. Obvious stoke outlet for me. Plus I've found some surf pals, bonus.

Bad news: I'm moving really soon.
Good news: SCORED a place 1/2 block away. Even better view of ocean . If people still want my self indulgent, dubiously accurate surf reports, lemme know. New place has a balcony, who knows, maybe niceness surf n' bbq one of these days. Cheers!

WTF Bagel, you don't want me around anymore?

Ok, enough of that. I don't want people gettin the wrong idea round here.

So, I am sitting here watching the Rip Curl Pro and not to compare Bells to Lindy but I surfed similar slop that these guys are surfing today. The only difference, I go 40 feet and turn once if I am lucky. They are busting fins out, 4 turn waves, floaters, etc. How the hell do you keep that speed?

I guess this is why I like bigger waves. They push my fat ass down the line so I don't have to try to turn!

Christian, not enough of you. Where you at?

s.s....bummed to hear that you're moving out of that sweet pad. glad to hear that you're moving some place that sounds equally cool! i'll cast my vote for continued slurf reports...with continued use of creative descriptors! as for the bbq...i'm down with that! such events are almost as good at bringing glassy, head-high swell and gentle offshores as my leaving town! ; ) maybe once e is back from Centro America?

s.s., sounds like you scored a new home! glad to hear you're still at the beach. keep the midOBs coming...there's no confusing skarkbait with sealmeat.

kindbud...$10 says you come around.

Bagel:

That Costanoa place that somebody flamed here the other day is supposed to be a great, relatively inexpensive, romantic getaway. www.costanoa.com

kaiser...if you figure all that out, about how the pros generate all that speed and do all those turns in very marginal conditions...will you please tell me as well. It's baffled me for years.

Oh, and another fun thing to trip on. Have one of your buddies video you someday and then compare what you thought you were doing in your mind on a wave...with the reality of the tape. Scary!

oh, and I agree...what's up christian? Details on the new gig and location. How are you holding up?

this joint rocks! i only found niceness a month or so ago but e don't go changin'. i dig the crowd on the comments but they'd be nothing without the opening. well not nothing cause everyone's got alot good going on. i guess i'm the guy you could all hate.

old - 40
tranny - moved a year ago from nyc
new - bought 1st board 2 weeks after we got here

but totally stoked. finding it harder and harder to work and easier and easier to surf. wife's getting concerned. heading south to cr for my first warm water adventure this wknd. watch out!

mushy but fun at lindy this morning. not crowded, nice!

**JNN BREAKING NEWS BULLETIN**

surfing is fun. if you want serious work at a hospital or some shit. i recommend the NICU or kids cancer ward to sober you up.

**END JNN BREAKING NEWS BULLETIN**

yeah, head high and glassy is fun, but you haven't truly experienced surfing until you've taken out a few of them foamie rental boards and had a round of drunken joust with your buddies!! you scoff, but juuuuuuuuuuust try to keep your superaggroi'mcoolerthanyoufothermuckers scowl on your face as you catch a BZ-body drop across the back and paddle out swearing to get your buddy on the next one, and bustin up watching the video replays by the campfire at night while passing a bottle/pipe of your favorite inebriants.

i almost drowned surfing drunk..but i dont think ive ever laughed so hard

hey does anybody know if there is any video footage on the interweb of that mandalla fish fest a while ago?

goodnightness

too busy at work today to keep up, but wanted to echo prior posts - your intros are great, e. don't go changing.

and here's a suggestion for an album name for hans blix: UNATTENDED BAGS

bagel, there is video at surfvid.com. But, it has very little fish footage. The fish fest was in front of one of the better bars on the beach, and somehow a gazillion beginner/longboarders knew about it (and a few better longboarders). At any point in time there were maybe 5 fish riders and 30-40 other surfers out there. Look for the video 032004

I am scared of BVB

Hoping the wind is under controll for the sunrise, my only window for this swell is thusday AM

Time to put a little religion all up in this mofo, bitches

Morale is boosted to high highs by accomplishment. In fact, it can be demonstrated that production is the basis of morale.

- L. Ron Hubbard

Hey E,

You write like you didn't grow up in California. That's great man. Probably helps with getting a job and buying a house and shit.

I was too busy smoking weed at my N. Cal high school, but I tried to make it up at college.

You would make a great copywriter, because you can sell me on surfing marginal conditions. I look at the surf and say 'this is shit', you look at it and describe it like it's from a Neiman Marcus catalog.

Scientology? eeeeeekkkkkkkkk. Run for the hills people. The aliens are coming.

Hmm..
SF: 11.2 @ 17
HMB: 13.8 @ 20

link

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