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windy and wild again.. some size too

After a healthy 5-day surf run and a 4.5 hour behemoth jimmy-jam last night i treated myself to a little morning sleep-in. Damn.. it felt strange and deviant to actually sleep past 6:30. I felt like i was skipping class or something. But.. Lerm voyaged down to Pacifilus and reported cleaner conditions down there so it sounds like a dawn-patrol surf mission is/was possible. Looking at the ridiculously crystal-clear new surfpulse cam it appears that an OB session would be within range too? It looks almost clean out there.. but.. as many of us know the camera can be deceiving. Wouldn't it be cool if someone hijacked the surfpulse cam and installed it at Lake Merced... or maybe behind the counter at the Sea Biscuit... or maybe in the dressing room at Victoria's Secret?? other ideas? hmmm...

soo.. between jams last night we discussed black sabbath lyrics, the meaning of life, women, vietnam, and linguistics among other things. We also pondered the language of music, and how before you can speak the language you have to develop a vocabulary and understand the grammatical rules that come into play. We all waxed philosophic about how each of us felt that after years and years of playing we were only barely beginning to scratch the surface of a working musical vocabulary (scales, theory, fretboard knowledge, listening, rhythmic awareness, communication, harmony, phrasing, etc.). Real, unadulterated, unfiltered personal expression can only truly flow once the rudiments of the language of music are internalized. That made me think about surfing, and how the same idea of a linguistic-like structure applies. Until the foundational grammatical constructs of wave-knowledge, paddling ability, intuitive take-offs, balance, and flow-with-the-ocean are achieved; inspired, expressive, beautiful surfing cannot happen. Of course the language of surfing is never truly mastered. Every surfer from Slates to sharkbait is somewhere along the never-ending learning curve of surfing linguistics. As the various rudiments of surfing become second-nature, personal expression increases and shines stronger and stronger. As the fundementals grow deeper and become more instinctive, the personal style of each surfer comes more and more to the fore.

soo.. keep progressing everyone! The psychological and physical rewards continue as you continue to improve and develop. Dividends are paid to those who make efforts and push themselves further and further. Don't allow the frustrations of the inevitable plateaus of progression bog you down into a state of ennui. Just keep pushing forward.. relentlessly.. passionalely... with love.

let it flow
photo from transworld surf

"from slates to sharkbait" that was funny.

My east coast crew and I are planning our annual surf trip. (I know why bring a crowd but I gotta hold it down with the old school bro's) Thinking about renting a house south of Ensenada (Califia?) Where there is a beach break for the flat days and a variety of S and N recieving Points within and hours drive or so in case we luck in to some swell.

Any of you former Blacks and La Jolla cove charges want to give up the skinny and add to the travel section of this site?

Posted by: tom at April 13, 2004 10:25 AM

This would be late May early June.

Posted by: tom at April 13, 2004 10:26 AM

"(heh, heh ... heh, heh ...), he said 'ennui'."

Sorry about that. From your post e, I have an image of you and your bros sittin' around "the circle" a la "That 70s Show" talkin' some deep, deep shit last night.
Seriously now, language is critically important in EVERYTHING we do. We all learn to talk the talk, before we learn to walk the walk.

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 10:29 AM

brother in the lime green transworld tube be feeling some "love" - big time.............better pologize to sharkbait...put her opposite skin head at the other end of the spectrum

Posted by: over the falls at April 13, 2004 10:31 AM

Sorry, the post about "...talk the talk ... walk the walk." was me. Too fast on the "Post" button.

Posted by: Jimmie at April 13, 2004 10:31 AM

lindy wuz kinda fun this morning. slim pick'ns but worth it. at one point it appeared that the wind totally died out and it turned a little glassy.

Posted by: lerm at April 13, 2004 10:47 AM

Excerpt from a working friend's letter, in praise of office jobs:

Hey Bro,
Sorry about the lag in getting back to you.
Just the usual work routine here; after a month you begin to sink into it and become defined by the constraints. Get up in the morning, surf or no surf, take a shower, shave, put on work clothes, walk up to Geary and catch the express bus that goes downtown. The bus fills up and people never speak and everyone wears black work clothes, as if there's some shadowy chance for a San Francisco funeral later in the day. Some people wear headphones and others read books. I usually read, never looking up as the bus ambles down Geary, as it bullies its way down Bush running through red lights. The outer Richmond workers are mostly lower class or Russian or Asian. Our clothes aren't as nice and the bars aren't as good in our part of the city. Near Market the Marina Express bus pulls close to us, and you can look in, watch the Marina people, all young and glossy, dreaming of their fashion magazines, dreaming of 11 dollar cocktails, of re-fi's and current trends, dreaming of keeping pace with the trends and achieving a high level of personal grooming, dreaming of eradicating extra body hair and toning their figures through sacrifice or elective surgery. They have finance plans for plastic surgery, now. 15,000 dollar breast implants and liposuction become affordable with a steady job and monthly payments, and it pays off in the end, after all, because the better you look, the more you make.

I drink coffee now. There's very little to look forward to, between 9 and noon. A small and effective company-sanctioned drug high seems less trivial, as the weeks creep by.

The lunch restaurants are nearly empty at 11:45. By noon the lines stretch out the door. No one speaks. Lunch is the second thing we look forward to, after coffee. Some co-workers eat lunch together. It give them a chance to speak about work, outside of the office. Sometimes they discuss reality television, as well.

I have six white undershirts, newly purchased. I wash them each Sunday, stack them in my closet, and take the top shirt from the pile after I shave and put on deodorant. Undershirts make it possible to wear your work shirts a few times without dry cleaning them, provided you are careful when you eat lunch and drink coffee. They also cover some of the chest hair from showing when you choose not to button the top button of your work shirt. Chest hair is frowned upon these days.

It is important to look busy. Some people choose to sigh every 15 minutes or so, perhaps tap the top of their desk, and mutter to themselves something along the lines of "I have so much to do today." Another effective technique is the "purposeful walk." When walking through the halls, past the cubicles of your co-workers, always walk with purpose and haste. Whether retrieving documents from the printer, or getting water from the water cooler, or visiting the restroom, always make it appear as if you are pressed for time. Walk as one walks when they are sacrificing precious work minutes to accomplish a strictly necessary task, such as urination. When urinating, take care not to drip urine on your work pants.

In the afternoons, the elevator banks fill up around five. The elevators become crowded. There is one black woman, a mother, most likely, about five foot two, who becomes claustrophobic in crowded elevators. She starts at the 23rd floor, waiting for a lull in the traffic to get on a downward elevator. As the elevator descends, and fills with all the employees, dressed in funeral black, she nervously fingers her ID badge and amicably mutters things like "Well it's filling up. I don't know about this." When too many people get on, she reaches a critical mass, pushes quietly through the crowd, and gets off, no matter what floor she happens to be on. She repeats the routine all over again, hoping against hope that an empty elevator will come her way, and she will migrate successfully to the lobby. I wonder how many tries it takes her. I wonder why she doesn't leave at 4:45, when everything in our world is empty. I pray for her. I pray she drives to work, although I fear she may take public transportation. The buses crowd so easily. I pray for her as I pray for all of us.

It's meditative, the routine. You remove all thought and simply focus on the breathing, the actions, the movements and the choices that you made so long ago that choice is no longer relevant. Without the burden of choice, you focus on breathing.

Posted by: cube dweller at April 13, 2004 10:48 AM

Thanks Reality check. Good point. We want to get south of ensenada.

Great post cube dweller.

Posted by: tom at April 13, 2004 10:53 AM

e, your words this morning had me flashing back to my expereince surfing on vitamin A. The photo imagery works too. You have a gift. Mahalo for sharing. May your wave Karma be lucked this next month.

Tom, calafia is north of ensenada. I'd reccomend going to cabo, warmer water, more options for bueno olas. better vibe down there then the border to ensenada stretch.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 13, 2004 10:56 AM

wow, cube dweller, look at the bright side....only (65-your age) more years of work til retirement!!

now excuse me while i put a bullet thru my head.

Posted by: j at April 13, 2004 10:56 AM

Hey, I'm enjoying reading the exchanges here, and you guys seem less likely to yell at me than some other sites, so . . . *jumps in*

This is my second year surfing: longboard at Linda Mar and sometimes OB. I am really determined to be a good citizen out there, so I've read up on etiquette and stuff. But it's hard for me to translate what I've read to what actually goes on at these places. As far as I can tell, there isn't really a "lineup" when I get out in LM: the waves break all over the place and people aren't taking turns as far as I can tell. Maybe I'm wrong about that, being Klooless after all?

Anyway, my practice has been just to try to stay out of people's way and to be sure the people right around me when I get out get a chance before I take a shot (hell, I need to recover from the paddle anyhow).

OB has been lots less crowded than LM when I've been out---but oddly I've had more problems there with surfers dropping in on me or setting up right next to me or in front of me for no apparent reason. Maybe they're making a point.

Posted by: KloolessKook at April 13, 2004 10:58 AM

tom i grew up in LJ and lived there from 96-y2k and now that i'm up north i regret not spending more time south of the border. i surfed "the usual suspects" only a handful of times (k38, salsipuedes, san miguel) and have done embarrassingly little exploration south of there. on one more recent trip i went to both the wall and scorpion bay, got fun waves in both places, but couldn't tell you how to get there as i was a passenger w/ a much more experienced baja explorer. good luck...

Posted by: paul b at April 13, 2004 11:03 AM

there aren't enough honest anthropological studies of 'us'

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 11:04 AM

Calafia, is more of a winter spot, but there are some nice beaches that are uncrowded nearby. Salinas in particular, just south of Calafia and the water is always so warm there for some reason, the polar oppostie of Ano.

Posted by: mexisurf at April 13, 2004 11:06 AM

cube dweller, that was some epic prose. i feel ya... Sometimes when riding muni to work i try to look at everyone's faces in the train, or passing, its like a indie film or something...faces in the crowd, all these distinct personalities crammed together in one blob of sameness.

Try to stay sane inna de office babylon.

Posted by: luke at April 13, 2004 11:12 AM

Klooless, doesn't sound like you're clueless. That we've got general rules is amazing and wonderful...but no gaurantee. Sometimes the best we can do is follow the guidelines ourselves, hope for the best. Spots like Lindy that are known for party waves, well, I don't find that in any way an excuse for dropping in, so much as a warning. If I'm there and two or three folks drop in I tend to think it's more calming to ride behind the pack, hands up ready to catch flung boards, than to try to hoot folks off 'my wave.' Then again, I nearly decapitated some poor kid the other day when he looked up, made full eye contact, and proceeded to go anyway, right next to me--I kooked out at the unexpected move, pearled and the nose popped up and cranked his jaw point blank...so maybe I should have called him off? Or just not kooked out myself?

Taking turns is more obvious at point breaks or very regular snad bars--at a messy spot like lindy, especially with a high percentage of beginners, nothings gonna be that organized. A little smiling and chatting goes a long way towards mutual crowded-wave enjoyment, though.

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 11:18 AM

e, you really spoke some truth this morning in your talk about treating music as a language. that was straight out of the book of Miles or Coltrane. Or just as Charlie Parker said, "you slave away at your instrument, you learn the scales, the theory...and then you forget everything you ever learned and just play." Pretty wise words from the founder of modern jazz. People think, "the man's a genious, just born that way..." Little do they know that he locked himself in his room for 15 hours a day for four years after being laughed off the bandstand at age 15. He spent that time learning to crawl, to walk, to run and then fly. Same story for all the greats. Nobody is just "born with it." Ray Brown, the most recorded jazz bassist of all time died just a few years ago. He was a legend, a master. Yet, he woke up every morning after his gigs, even at age 65+, and practised.

I'm a studying jazz pianist. Been at it for years. There's too much to learn. We'll never "get there" completely.

More Parker: "Music is your own experience, your thoughts, your wisdom. If you don't live it, it won't come out of your horn."

keep pimpin'

egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at April 13, 2004 11:19 AM

Thanks cube dweller...gnarly in a 'too familiar' sence. We do the weirdest things to ourselves...

at least there is the morning surf--can you imagine not having any concept of surf whatsoever and living this life???

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 11:24 AM

awesome, egp...now I'm really confused about your moniker

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 11:26 AM

calafia breaks on big souths. i got it huge on hurrican linda in (i think) '98. here are some pics, but you can't really tell the size:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbdodds/cal.JPG
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbdodds/calsmall2.JPG
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/rbdodds/cal3.JPG

Posted by: bbr at April 13, 2004 11:36 AM

From an email re adjusting to the downtown grind:

I am still spending a good amount of time dealing with employment. Makes sense right, the majority of my waking hours are spent working and probably will be for a huge amount of time. I am handling. Things are getting better. This is not to say that I jump out of bed in the morning beaming with enthusiasm. That I sit in front of the mirror while I shave dreamily thinking about the phones that I am going to answer that day “gooooood morning SF Insurance.” As you pointed out last time it is work, and ecstasy is not a reasonable expectation. Still things are getting better. They really couldn’t have been much worse. A month ago I was ready to quit, or jump or something. I was drinking a lot at night, feeling bad during the day……vicious cycle.

Here is where it gets better. I know, for myself, that trivial things make a big difference in my general life outlook. I am doing my best to focus on these things. They get me through my days. The weather has been nice recently. The sun is shining outside; my office is filed with soft winter light (it is also filled with super strong fluorescent light). It falls into certain corners of the office without interruption, bounces off certain books and shelves. I walk through these corners on my way to the file cabinet. I stand for a second and stretch. When my eyes wander at my desk I fix them on the books and shelves that are lit naturally. I find windows to San Francisco. It is a special city this time of year. Every morning I take a short walk to get the mail. I savor this walk. It is mid day and I am lost in the city I am enamored with. It is good luck that I get to take this walk, I am thankful for it. I savor it.

I have also changed my morning routine. I wake up 15 minutes earlier. I leave my blinds completely open so the last hour of sleep in the morning is in natural light. I put on music before I do anything. My morning routine is much less mundane when it is set to bouncy hip-hop. These things help. If my mornings are orchestrated successfully, and my evenings are full work feels like a means to an end, a somewhat unpleasant blip in my day. I am free to think about other things, to explore myself.

Posted by: lurker at April 13, 2004 11:37 AM

...or does knowing surf make the cube life more painful? Such a paradox: the quintisential freedom (is surfing a metaphor for freedom even to many nonsurfers?) vs. the removal of the "burden of choice" in the 'asphalt jungle'...

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 11:37 AM

those calafia pics look tasty... but crowded. How far down do you have to go to escape the crowds?

Posted by: e at April 13, 2004 11:40 AM

cube dweller that is depressing, but its inspired you to write a cool story. im happy to have a job i enjoy, most of the time.

kloolesskook..good advice is just to keep your eyes open..be aware of things going on around you but know your rights and who has the right of way in situations. the worst in when you see a begining surfer who is just in "the zone" and compleetley oblivious to the fact that someone might allready be on the wave they are feverishy paddling for. the problem with linda mar is alot of people go straight so all the left and right and right of way stuff is kind of thrown out the window.

E, the same is true with art and cooking too from what it seems. the best artists, surfers musicians feel there is room to improve. and alwayse have someone to look up to and be inspired by.

cool quotes pimp


Posted by: bagel at April 13, 2004 11:42 AM

Tom be sure to check out Anthony's Disco on your way through Ensenada.

There isn't much immediately south of there, Pta San Jose is a decent reef / point set up that works on souths, with camping near a fishing camp. There's a hostel at Eijido Erendira run by a guy from SD but the waves in the area are pretty crap based on my limited experience.

There's a surf camp a few towns (and a few hours) south of there, I forget the name but its pretty easy to find.

But the better waves are all a good deal south of Ensenada or in the stretch just to the north - san miguel, salsipuedes, La Fonda etc. Plus if you stay up there you've got access to Anthony's.

Posted by: eric at April 13, 2004 11:47 AM

alright.

i guess today i ain't calling that big high paying, expense account having, car allowance giving employer in NY today for the cush SF territory.

gone surfing (46026 is 6 @12)

send more n baja info. thanks all.

quiet guy i know you know of a few left points down there too.

Posted by: tom at April 13, 2004 11:51 AM

Hey my name's in the same sentence as Slates!...oh....wait...Well, surf and art vocabulary are a never ending quest, but I DO know that one can have prodigious wipeouts without the practice! Some things come easy.

OB: Forced out of my house today [#@$%!!] but if the winds hold off it could be surfable...was kinda suprised no one was out earlier, must be something I don't know.

cube dweller: you should be a paid writer, chops and truth in your post.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 13, 2004 11:59 AM

Thanks, ben and bagel! It can be really helpful to learn that there isn't anything you didn't already know.

Posted by: KloolessKook at April 13, 2004 12:11 PM

occy

the occ-ster

occ - barrelled in spain

occy in indo

occ - speaking fluently

Posted by: e at April 13, 2004 12:20 PM

occy

Posted by: e at April 13, 2004 12:21 PM

tom, my advice is to blow off Baja completely and go to mainland Mex.

If you do go to Baja, there are tons of good breaks between the border and San Miguel. The first 40 km. It is only slightly less crowded than San Diego Cy.

Past Ensenada, you go a little to get to the next set of south facing points. There are 2-3, including Freighters which is really easy to find, and a point break that can really wreck your car. But these are rarely better than the "near the border" spots, take about 4-6 hours from the border. A little less crowded, though.

From there, the next spot is Abreojos. That is 12-15 hours, I think. And Scorpion Bay, This is Baja Sur. About as crowded as the spots near Freighters.

But Mainland Mex is more consistent. Bigger, better. An easy flight away. Or a really long drive. The lure and legend of good Baja surf is mostly that. My friends that nail it do surgical strikes based on swell forecasts. Big swell comes, run down for 2-3 days, run back up. I did plenty of trips without swell forecast planning, and mostly we sat around really bored swatting flies.

Posted by: baja expert at April 13, 2004 12:22 PM

yeah, Klooless, no doubt you're doing fine amigo--glad to be of non-assistance!

Posted by: ben at April 13, 2004 12:28 PM

For the most part Northern Baja is best in winter. 1998 was a huge El Nino year and places broke when they shouldn't have for instance I surfed Malibu point at 10 foot in Feb. South of Ensenda there are some good spots, beach break and reefs west of San Thomas, nice hot sping at the edge of town too. Mainland on the other hand you need a super big swell to catch any waves north of PV, Colima south and the waves are good all summer.

Posted by: mexisurf at April 13, 2004 12:41 PM

this guy too

Posted by: bagel at April 13, 2004 12:46 PM

niiice bagel!
a friend loaned me Longer the other day--shhhweetness!

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 12:51 PM

joel can surf anything, guy is amazing!

Posted by: j at April 13, 2004 12:54 PM


looks like OB may be open for business?? Whatcha got Sharkbait..

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 01:11 PM

Arg I don't know what OB's doing, 10 guys are ripping apart my house today and I've had to flee! Wanted to surf bad today. Posting elsewhere. Best bet again, check winds. Looked like peaky but rideable shoulders this am.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 13, 2004 01:29 PM

out on video today..oh damn im a nerd

Posted by: bagel at April 13, 2004 01:35 PM

wow, wish I had time to post re: all the posts, but I have to go grind. I surfed the state of Montana for about an hour with one other person out. Super fun corners and a few faces opening up. Few pitching lips were scattered too!

Posted by: Ian at April 13, 2004 01:37 PM

wow that new surfpulse cam is shweet. looking fun out there, i might have put my taxes off again and hit it up after work...

Posted by: bbr at April 13, 2004 01:38 PM

Sorry Tom. The only left points I know of are those Bank Wright or maybe Ralph Nader has described.

Posted by: Quiet Guy at April 13, 2004 01:48 PM

eyewitness account from Falluja

Posted by: murderous Bush admin. at April 13, 2004 02:09 PM

Some very thoughtful stuff on this here board today.
Klooeless - you sound like your attitude is NICE 'n' solid. Just remember, not everywhere is like the free-for-all madness at Pedro (Lindamar). Most spots follow the standard etiquette: the surfer highest in the peak has the wave. Basic respect, not aggressiveness will usually get you more waves; it will for sure allow you to have more fun. I've been surfing since '63 and despite what blakestah might say about my aircraft-carier board and the single-minded look I sometimes get in my eye out there, I still just try to stay outta people's way and GENTLY let them know when I'm "comin' down".
Cubedweller – I think the germ of the solution to your (our) dilemma is contained in your last few lines about the breath. Focusing on the breath is what gets me through all the crazy shit that goes on in my life. When I find myself out at Ocean Beach on one those days when I’ve bitten off more than I can chew, I try to just focus on breathing in and breathing out. It keeps me calm and centered as a big set rolls in, and gives me the courage to spin and go when one of those heaving monsters looms up in front of me. When I get snowed under at my job and my boss asks me to do something REALLY STUPID, focusing on my breathing is what keeps me from lashing out, and allows me to CALMLY explain to him why his suggestion will not work. When I start to feel frustration and despair at what seems to be the pointless struggle of suffering through yet another day in a life that in no way resembles the tropical surf dream I envisioned as a kid, focusing on my breath brings me back to reality and helps me to realize that I still have a lot for which to be grateful.
Later today I have to confront someone whom I love more than life itself with a pretty heavy ultimatum. The calm focus on my breath – in and out, in and out – will enable me to say what I need to say with conviction and credibility; and hopefully will allow me to convey the real love and concern I have for this person.
All of us have shit we have to go through. Some of us are stuck in a loop of: crowded bus, tiny cubicle, crowded bus, crappy apartment, crowded bus … Others have harsher realities to deal with: serious illness, chronic pain, torture, war, starvation … the varieties of suffering are endless. Mindful breathing reminds us that WE ARE NOT OUR SITUATION. We are OURSELVES, and we are connected to other SELVES who also suffer through their own situations. This realization is the beginning of compassion, and compassion is the beginning to the end of suffering – one breath at a time.

Posted by: Jimmie at April 13, 2004 02:18 PM

"And the satellite news says the cease-fire is holding and George Bush says to the troops on Easter Sunday that, “I know what we’re doing in Iraq is right.” Shooting unarmed men in the back outside their family home is right. Shooting grandmothers with white flags is right? Shooting at women and children who are fleeing their homes is right? Firing at ambulances is right?

Well George, I know too now. I know what it looks like when you brutalise people so much that they’ve nothing left to lose. I know what it looks like when an operation is being done without anaesthetic because the hospitals are destroyed or under sniper fire and the city’s under siege and aid isn’t getting in properly. I know what it sounds like too. I know what it looks like when tracer bullets are passing your head, even though you’re in an ambulance. I know what it looks like when a man’s chest is no longer inside him and what it smells like and I know what it looks like when his wife and children pour out of his house.

It’s a crime and it’s a disgrace to us all."

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 02:27 PM

Jimmie, thanks mate. Kind words. Good luck with your evening, peace to you

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 02:27 PM

Yoda is that you pretending to be Jimmie?

Posted by: pez at April 13, 2004 02:33 PM

Jimmie- props on the post---eloquent. Facing your loved one with that soulful stamina can only bring positive results. Best of Luck

Posted by: steama at April 13, 2004 02:37 PM

pez - ARE YOU CALLIN' ME A MUPPET!? ;)

Posted by: Jimmie at April 13, 2004 02:37 PM

When Jimmie's age you reach, sound as sage you not.

Muppets rule!

Posted by: at April 13, 2004 02:39 PM

inhale...exhale..i just got an ounce in the mail..

good luck jimmy

george bush is freaky

Posted by: bagel at April 13, 2004 02:42 PM

Stick it out, Jimmie.

Winds look "less onshore" tomorrow, swell up to 8-9@12-13 from 290-300, tide fairly high in the morning....looks like a surf before work!

Posted by: blakestah at April 13, 2004 03:08 PM

Fuck Bush!! feels so good to do that.... SURF?

Posted by: mexisurf at April 13, 2004 03:10 PM

Hey I'm a SF transplant from Santa Cruz that just found this website. Thought I'd send a note.

I have been living here for almost three years now and I still find it amusing that the "hard core" locals make claims. Most of them can't surf worth shit, yet they love to lay claim.

Surfed Moss Landing a coupla months ago, and I swear it was like surfing at Kelly's - bunch of meat heads complaining to each other about the "Aliens" in the lineup. Weird how that happens?

Posted by: Alien at April 13, 2004 03:13 PM

gosh...lots of good foder on here today. just popped in to share tales of the morning sesh at the hook with my newbie friends. waves were good at the beginning, low tide mushed em out later. I got so many waves, I totally forgot what surfing a point break is like. all down the line, many lips to hit, tube sections. I was loving it, as E said last week "Just what the Dr ordered."

Cube Dweller I feel your pain. I have had the same cube job for 4 years and I finally decided that I can't do it anymore. It's a depressing place to work in the first place, but I am just not cut out for cube work. I feel there is more I can do or something more satisfying I can do. Saturn is in my house (happens at 28-29 years of age and late 50's) and it is time for big change. Don't fight it, embrace it and go big.

E...loved the intro today. I think about the musical vocabulary all the time, it is so wonderful how 4 or 5 people can communicate through instruments. You just have to grab your favorite instrument, put up your antenna, listen and react. Such an amazing experience to have a group with the same musical skill levels and watch everyone reach their boundaries and push it further because of the group.

Posted by: barney at April 13, 2004 03:20 PM

The ocean decides. I cant tell you how many times I felt like a local at OB only to get smacked down, tossed, pitched, water gaged, slashed and beat. I even have been out on days when KOOKS are getting shacked while I scrap like a crack fiend on 16th st only to have mother move me aside and open up for her orther children. Therefore I dont thnik of being local anymore, just lucky, determined and slightly surf stupid.

Surf like Alex, train like Jay, Live like TOM

Posted by: pez at April 13, 2004 03:22 PM

-dude...that shit's not cool, pull it out
+is this bad??...wait...what??
-dude, you've got a fuckin daaart in yoooouurrr neeeeecckkkkk

Posted by: j at April 13, 2004 03:42 PM

Has anyone physically checked the beach in the last hour? Suddenly, no 4:30 meeting, kid at her mom's, wife working late. ssshhhhiiieeeeetttt i could go for an mid week evy sess.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 13, 2004 03:50 PM

Thanks fo the kind encouragement y'all.
Without going into details, I'll let you know how things go.

Posted by: Jimmie at April 13, 2004 04:15 PM

jimmie...at the risk of sounding like a parrot...well said....brought back a lot of memories of when I used to be a cube dweller as well. Damn i remember holding my tongue for fear of what might come out of my mouth. Glad that part of my life is behind me. Hope the other situation works out...

Posted by: jdz at April 13, 2004 05:51 PM

Hmm, cube dweller, ouch... I went the other direction, too much excitement... I'm doing emergency medicine right now in an inner city ER. My day is filled with crack addicts, gunshot wounds, screaming kids, you name it. I work 60-80 hours a week. I love and hate it at the same time.
Funny the compromises we make for work. For me it was moving away from the coast for 3 years to get my residency training-not an easy choice. Was in SF last week, caught some great waves, now back in ATL/jonesing for the beach! Can't wait for the next 2 years to go by, so I can move back to SF and have my 40 hour week. Still couldn't imagine doing anything else. Keep breathing....

Posted by: welle at April 13, 2004 07:12 PM

Spotted a gray whale on the drive home this afternoon, just south of a certain cove.....makes for a nice commute home to pull over and watch another animal make their migratory "commute".....

Posted by: jhmb at April 13, 2004 08:38 PM

"DEAR DRIFTERS et al"
or
"DUH, IT'S SPRING"

Cube Dweller: Nothing serious, but..., ... GET A LIFE. life. life. life. QUIT.
Tom - for all the payout why not f*** it all and trip to Tahiti - alone ( as in Wahine). Take sunblock. Otherwise - NEXPA.
Ok , you'all know I know A LOT OF CRAZIES, but I am pretty sure I can identify - put my finger on - the alias just released from prison. I hear he's pretty cute and is actually pretty hot backside.
Pez. Ride On. GO. Act Latino instead of white.
vAYO Con diOS amigo.

Bagel, E, Ian, 3to5 - who the f** are you people!!!!!!!! Jesus. This is weird.


Curren is a total stoner. I'll never forget the time...

Posted by: BVB at April 13, 2004 08:57 PM

hey welle, good to see you on the board.. we met at a niceness brunch. got a double sesh in, fun rights. Grubbin on some lau-lau's. I don't think anyone is stuck in any situation. If you don't like it, change it. It might be a lot of work and hassle, but in the end you know it's right. Seems I've been doing oh so much of that lately. And like many others said, you will always have to make compromises for your job. It's kinda funny to think that sometimes pro-surfers HAVE to surf when they want to do other stuff. I really like what pez said about getting humbled by the ocean. so true.

Posted by: Ian at April 13, 2004 09:07 PM

nice thoughts, niceness. "the ocean decides" ... good answer.

plenty to think about up here today, lots of it really poignant. there's more to life than just breathing, but there's also more to life than the One Singular Moment. otherwise who'd care about hopes or memories? i want those things in my life...so...huh. sorry. just lots to think about.

welle, i'm looking at making a decision like yours shortly. thanks for posting.

Posted by: friendly at April 13, 2004 09:31 PM

kook - like a friend of mine said long ago, "surfing has the steepest learning curve of any sport." Cube dweller - nice style, very Margaret Atwood (the Handmaiden's Tale for those that read). Laughed at Alien - very Santa Cruz attitude, may you feel the force. Still worth checking the site despite what is setting up to be a WINDsurf spring. Already making contingency plans.

Posted by: banjo at April 13, 2004 09:48 PM

The day ends well. I think was able to get my point across this evening, time will tell how well. I'm learning that while I'm responsible for the things I say, I have no control over the other person's response.
O.K. that's IT! I'm beginning to sound like a pretentious asshole even to my OWN ears. I'm going to get some sleep - tomorrow will be here all too soon, and like friendly said, "...there's more to life than just breathing..."

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