smooth ocean, a few waves too
Another exquisite morning in the valley of paradise that is P-town. Surfed one beach north of utopia cove and segued into maybe 9 or 10 half-decent little squirty rights. Both Smoke-a-Jay and Schmlindorific looked tranquil and glassy, with occasional shoulder/head-high waves meandering toward shore. Only a few poeple out at each spot.. mellow mood... mellow morning.. I saw one longboarder out at Sloat, probably Kdalle, friend #1 or doof? It looked kinda nice out there as well. the surface was relative glass but the swell wasn't sure whether to break on the inner or mid bars. kinda funky. highly doable if you dont' feel like driving though..
soo.. not a spectacular morning or waves but sufficient to stave off the surf-jones for another 24 hours or so.
soo.. this might be the last report by yours truly until around May 17. Hopefully the reigns will be handed over to Kaiser (Kaiser, i'll send you email with info/instructions today) and all you heads can continue to discuss/banter/extoll/vilify/bemuse/swath/love amongst yourselves. Lerm and i are leaving tomorrow for Nicaragua. I'll be there for a month.. psyched!! The current plan is to meet up with Jocular Jake on this volcanic island in the middle of a giant lake around May 1. Other than that the days will be filled with surf, cruising around towns, hangin' with the kids, trying to pick up some spanish, more surf, chilling, surviving and laughing about crazy 3rd-world societal looseness, gaining perspective on the neurotic/live-to-work/walled/provincial/insular/cold/hyper-fast/over-consumptive/extravagant/angry reality of present-day american society, more surf, relaxing in hammocks, sweating, swatting flies, getting barrelled, smacking lips, and hopefully finding some little, low-key fishing village with a small guesthouse and a high-quality beach-break and maybe 2 hilarious aussie surfers and their girlfriends and then two Brazilian boogieboarding ladies who can drink us under the table.
soo.. anybody out there have a mozzie net they don't need for the next month? also.. if anyone out there knows about the nicaraguan fishing village of which I speak.. kick me an email at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com
enjoy the typically splendorous springtime bay-area surf scene.. when you're sitting out there at big, burly, hacked, onshore OB, freezing from the upwelling and worrying about whitey. Think about your central-american-sojourning brethren down in the tropics, sitting in 82 degree water at some low-key reef break with only two other surfers. palm trees wafting, sun beaming down, monkeys yelping, beers, fish tacos and a nap awaiting our sunburned, post-session selves.
enjoy!
rights to infinity
it's out there
high-line
(photos from allaboutsurf.com)
thanks for rubbing it in. HAVE A GROVVY WAVE FILLED TRIP! Peace Brother!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 15, 2004 10:26 AME - have a great trip! take lots of pictures so the rest of us can dream, and maybe retrace your footsteps one day.
i've got one of the nets that go over a hat, but no full one, sorry. avon 'skin so soft' was what we always used when fishing, the smell is slightly better than 'off' but still works...i think the bugs get stuck in the oil and die a la la brea or something...
anyways, rock on. bring an acoustic so you can come up with some cool, laid back swingin on a hammock grooves.
Posted by: j at April 15, 2004 10:36 AME, I hate you. Seriously though, have an awesome safe trip. You should pick up a few water-proof disposables along the way! Have fun, tell Jake I said "yo!"
Posted by: Ian at April 15, 2004 10:39 AMgood luck e, vas a encontrar muchas olas bellas!
Posted by: ben at April 15, 2004 10:41 AMnothing left to do but smile smile smile
have fun you bastard, be safe m'man.
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 10:44 AMEthan and Lerm.
Enjoy bro's. Looking forward to getting some updates from the road...wishing you waves, weed, wahines and workings.
(I always say the surf is not good if you aren't getting worked)
Posted by: tom at April 15, 2004 10:53 AMdamn, you're stoked e. good luck scoring in the surf and with the with the nicaraguan reef models. hooooooweeeeee!
i think i may be going to puerto escondido this summer for a surf trip/bachelor party with my bros. anybody else planning big trips this summer???
Posted by: bbr at April 15, 2004 11:00 AMcongrats to Parko ---literally blew the champ out of the water with 10 and 9.5 then follows with a 9.7 in the finals
Posted by: awesome aussie at April 15, 2004 11:00 AMe, vaya con dios.... hookup with centralamericabliss.com
Coulda been me this am. I was soloing between the lots from 7:30-9.
What's this, someones leaving town? Does this mean we're due for a months worth of unusually good surf here?
Happy hunting you guys. Post some teaser pics occassionally.
Posted by: kdalle at April 15, 2004 11:00 AMya you too lerm, b safe.
travel tip for you guys:
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 11:03 AMits fun to get drunk and throw ice water on your buddy while hes sleeping.
that was cruel and usual punishment...especially the part about the upwelling. the truth hurts!
ENJOY!! bring back sweet pics and some of that warm water. vaya con dios! vaya con olas!
Posted by: friendly at April 15, 2004 11:04 AME,
Happy and safe travels! Can't wait to read your stories from abroad. Don't forget plenty of pen and paper and a good flask! Aloha
Posted by: bagus at April 15, 2004 11:06 AMAdios!!!! Have a good trip hombre and try to stay out of trouble, eh??? What am i a dad???
a Rough paddle and poca repellente marred my sesh but not the tranquil morn off the foot of the Dune. lotsa chunder though>
Hid my keys in an old muffin bag, under some other refuse- hopefully incognito although the parking lot key lurkers may sleep in...
Came in at 8:30 to find the trash overturned, the empty muffin bag gone and my keys 5 feet away in the sand. Truck was intact- damn birds!
E- we dont know each other personally, but your character rich posts hints to your essence as a renaissance dude. From another self proclaimed RD, an EastCoast orig at that, you are going to love the Nica life.
the volcano you mention is one of the most amazing sights I have ever seen. the lake is enormous with 3 volcanos total. Freshwater "Landlords" roam the lake- trapped- evolutionary pariahs restricted from the oceans by great seismic events ages ago.
Nica resembles HI in the rainy season and Beyond Thunderdome in the dry.
A few weeks ago, you lamented on your lack of female interaction (at that time) as part of a response to one family guy.....
there will be a lack of that lack for you this next month if you desire. Most Nica folks I met and hung with are R-oots. poquito espanol, poquito suave suave and you're as much of a rock star as you want to be.
Always carry an empty Tona bottle with you as the glass is worth$$$. always pay 8-10 cords as opposed to 14-16 with an empty. Works Great on road trips..mmmmmmmmm-Tona!
Anyway, feel free to write me at steamboat72@yahoo.com for some specific details on the few spots I have explored there..Did you get those pics I sent you? not the best, and all empty waves, but I was too wet too much of the time to worry about ripper photos.
Olas? Si amigo----Claro!! ssshhhhhhhhhhhh!
Have fun, I can't wait for the return posts!
Peace
Posted by: steama at April 15, 2004 11:09 AMPez- Saw your post yesterday, don't know you either, but I guess it is my day for anonymity---I am driving thru LA to SD, leaving on Saturday around noon if you still need a ride. Email me at above address.
thanks heads! i'm getting all psyched up!
bagel.. we still need to have that sesh.. maybe tonight or tomorrow post-work?
hmmm...
Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 11:10 AME- Have a SAFE and pleasant trip. May you have good luck with swells and the Weather. I hope your travel is eventful enough in the "well, this makes it interesting..." sense, and uneventful in the "Son of a..." sense.
Clarification, Mr. Doof does not ride a Longboard more than about once a year. He does have an old 8-0 surf tech, but 99% of the time he is on a 7-6 thruster or bonzer.
As for me, I was the lone Longboard out the north end of Marble-Cove at 6:30 this AM. Sloat looked to Chaotic in the Dawn's Early Light.
Kdalle, hope you had fun.
hit up this wave for me.....i love surfing around cliffs and shit...sorry can't help you with name and location. was hoping you could tell me?
http://www.ticotravel.com/nicaragua/images/nicafternoon.jpg
Posted by: tom at April 15, 2004 11:16 AMwill do tom.. i've seen that wave pictured enough that i'll bet it's one of the main waves around san juan del sur
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Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 11:24 AMGot in the water at Pedro late yesterday. The usual supsects were in attendance. The wind was basically offshore, but the chesthigh (tops) waves looked way better from the parking lot than they actually were. The set waves were closing out and the 'tweeners were kinda backing-off and hard to get into. Nonetheless, a good time was had by all. Longboarders, were riding shortboards, shortboarders were riding longboards - it was MADCAP. I spent some of my time pickin' off little insiders with better shape and noseridable sections. Got my last wave from way outside as it was getting dark - dropped in, turned up to trim at mid-face and squated through a mini-bowl section (more like a teacup than a bowl); did my slow-motion, rollercoaster/semi-floater dealie off the closeout; threw my hands in the air, claimin' it to the stars and then bellied in. I rip (he said, tongue firmly in cheek).
Posted by: Jimmie at April 15, 2004 11:24 AMe - You will be seriously missed around here, I trust we will in good hands with Kaiser.
Have a good trip. Your NICE attitude will take good care of you down there - keep it HEALTHY. Be careful what you eat, be careful what you drink, be careful who you ... well, you know, slather on the sunblock, and wear your earplugs. Take LOTS of pictures.
SHEEEIIIIT:
What a crazy night I had dreaming about turning pro at 40. Keep those hot pics comin'.
Keeps me hella inspired! ******
Give me a hot shortboard shaped by Radspliff von Donovanreiter and I KNOW I COULD DO IT -- KNOW I CAN KNOW I CAN.
NO man, - wish I could surf like YOU. YOU ARE THE MAN. I know YOU - you are the epitome of soul.
Serious.
Dear Niceness clique: L, Toejam Bagle, Ion, Mot, Lerner, Kaiservonquip, Jay, Squid, Squat, Relleno, Quiet Chick, - all you cool ass hippiedotcommies be warned: IT BE OPEN SEASON ON YOUR s**t while E is gone. Safe trip E - be safe out there...bv
For the rest of the world here is your FRISCO
surf report for today: 3-4 clean to a bit bumpy
low tide should clean it up - hint of a west wind.
Slightly overcast - no rain as predicted and no swell as postulated by a one DB???????????
U NN RRRRRRRR EEEEEEEE AL!
check www.chucklantz.commmiephotography
Posted by: BVB at April 15, 2004 12:27 PMKOOK POINT.
Lerminator and e... have a cool trip.
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Posted by: dano at April 15, 2004 12:28 PMpacheco report:
Posted by: dsx at April 15, 2004 12:35 PMmessy lumpy dumpy consistent smooth thick. i would say if you are heading out beach chalet looks better even though its smaller.
Hey BVB, is Snappy droppin in there in #12. OF COURSE HE IS.
And hey, how does the kook on the redboard goooo. I can't even see a wave in da pix.
ALL TIME FOOOOOORT! HooooT.
Posted by: kdalle at April 15, 2004 12:35 PMNice E & Lerm! Get it done down there!
Posted by: Marco Esquandoles at April 15, 2004 12:56 PMhells yes. ill holla
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 12:57 PMhave a awesome trip e & lerm! damn a whole month! you are going to score so big!
on another note... arrrg. i forgot my tax stuff on the couch today when i left for work. any other procrastinators know of Post Offices that are open late today?
sometimes the bar eats you...
safe travels captain e.
Posted by: elias at April 15, 2004 12:59 PMAnyone interested. I'm gonna try to make the CNB show at the Biscuit tonite. Hard rocking CNB, an all surfing band. It'll be more entertaining than the alternative...look for the short skateboard with the big wheels! BVB will personally vouch for the band.
Posted by: blakestah at April 15, 2004 01:00 PME, let me get my wishes in as well before I depart today. I just de-waxed my twinfin, stuffed it in my bag and am heading inland to hang w/ Rick Kane and Turtle for the weekend. Turtle is flying in from Hawaii and we are going to kill the AZ wave pool scene! Should be killer... Just need to find my zinka....
Anyway, best wishes and good travels. I am sure you guys will score down there. Take care of the board (or break it if you need, no shame in that) as I am sure it will come in handy.
This morning: Good Ole' Standby, Lindy. Decent for sure. Smaller then last night but clean. Last night was solid out there, traded waves with a few and had a super fun session. Good size but mushy. B+ rating for an April session @ Lindy. Today, I paddled out to my own nugget and sat by myself for 30 mins. Caught 2 waves, then a crowd attracted around me one by one. Anyway, good to get some waves. Looked decent when I left. There was also a grouchy, Niceness regular siting. I swear this regular claims he doesn't surf Lindy but he was there and I have to EXPOSE him! HA!
Lastly: Honored to take over the reins while E is gone! However, like everyone besides E, I am just a visitor so let's make sure I stay that way... Y'all keep bringin' it and we will be cool. I clearly don't have the artistic writing skills of E but you will get a healthy dose of sarcasm and surf evidence (with the occasional scantly-clad picture of course) in his absence. E, make sure to email me on occasion with some updates and I will magically project them into black and white!
Posted by: Kaiser at April 15, 2004 01:03 PMRopes, Skis and Gear sighted amongst it off Pacheco around 12:30. geez- was the paddle out that tough????????????
Posted by: steama at April 15, 2004 01:18 PMI can always tell a BVB posting before I even get through the first damn sentance. Rollin down for a little central coast action this weekend with the huge swell coming though.
Posted by: Ian at April 15, 2004 01:25 PMwhoa... did he say "scantly-clad?"
Posted by: dano at April 15, 2004 01:26 PMHey, E, have a wonderful trip. Here’s the only dictionary you’ll need (please forgive my poor Spanish and worse spelling):
Mas cerveza, por favor. (More Coca-Cola, please.)
Estoy tan borracho! (I am so happy!)
Que es me nombre? (Where is my neighborhood?)
Usted es muy abominable, como se llama? (You’re pretty, what’s your name?)
Me llamo Ethan, soy Guapo y Fuego! (My name is Ethan, I’m very shy!)
Donde estan las olas? (Where is the golf course?)
Tiburon! Tiburon! (Dolphin! Dolphin!)
Ola Polica, perro stupido. (Hi police officer, you nice person)
Donde esta un cafe homosexual? (Where’s a good bar to meet women?)
Ola Senor. Quiero sexo con su hija! (Hello sir, I would like to meet your daughter!)
Have fun!
Posted by: El Bruce at April 15, 2004 01:33 PMHave fun E.....
Posted by: mexisurf at April 15, 2004 02:10 PMWow, BVB. I can't believe you put the "claimer" link up to those photos of you at fort point. No offense of course, but you look embarrassingly old and slow in the pics. I thought you must surf better than that, hearing you talk.
But it doesn't really matter how well you surf, right? It doesn't matter that you're just getting worse each year, as others pass you by in terms of skill level. As long as you have fun and keep spreading the aloha with your positive attitude you...Oh, wait. That doesn't apply to you, does it? Never mind -- it does matter.
Posted by: lewis at April 15, 2004 02:11 PMI also saw that tow crew, i dont think they were grabbing too many TOH monsters, it seemed like they were new to the tow scene and were trying to practice.
also, there is some wierd shit on the beach between noriega and rivera, kinda blueish and stinky, what they hell is it. looks strange.
Posted by: dsx at April 15, 2004 02:18 PMhttp://michaelmoore.com/index_hires.php
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 02:29 PMdead sail jellies pheeewwwww! hope i get a better hand when reincarnation comes round!!!
Posted by: steama at April 15, 2004 02:31 PMkind of gnarly, sorry.
not a big michael moore fan but disturbing image.
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 02:31 PMYouth is highly overrated.
Posted by: Old and Bold at April 15, 2004 02:42 PMbvb?
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Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 02:54 PMel bruce - classic dictionary, laughing my ass off here!
Posted by: j at April 15, 2004 03:01 PMI saw the pics of BVB on his giant red gun. finally put the face/board to the name, i have seen him in the lineup at OB a coupe times and FPs once. not really as much a vibber as the moniker would indicate, however i do find it amusing watching him surf head high waves on a 9'6" gun. kinda sucks when one guy hogs all the waves cuz he can sit 40 yards farther out to sea. anyway, i dont know BVB and he doesnt ever cause any problems my way but the giant board in small surf is a bit ridiculous. there are several others who do the same and one guy even uses webbed gloves...my message to you guys: lindamar.
Posted by: dsx at April 15, 2004 03:04 PMLet me help you guys out. BVB
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Switching boards???
Raise that rear arm, you gotta quasimodo
"I never drop in".
Some crusty dude.
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Posted by: at April 15, 2004 03:15 PMLet me help you guys out. BVB
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Switching boards???
Raise that rear arm, you gotta quasimodo
"I never drop in".
Some crusty dude.
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Posted by: at April 15, 2004 03:22 PMyeah.. that site doesn't allow external links to their pics.. bummer..
Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 03:24 PM
Posted by: at April 15, 2004 03:30 PMa long-time niceness regular... stylin' it.
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Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 03:54 PMe, can you stick me in your luggage!!!!! After surfing OB today and getting worked by wave and current, and catching only a handful of waves, as usual I have been literally dreaming abour warm point breaks. Long lines uncrowded to learn and get better on.
i still love you Vibes
but i wont change my position on FP.
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 04:29 PMKaiser - were you surfing in front of the fast food joint (they don't pay me so I won't name 'em) at Pedro (Lindamar) last night? What were you riding - trying to place you, since I was out there.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 15, 2004 04:34 PMProps for covering for e while he's surfing flawless warm-water waves!
just woke up from a cube nap. dreamed i was sandboarding fort funston cliffs on a tow board with ted nugent. farking gonzo, double live gonzo
bvb, proper style as one would expect. was surprised to see you publish yourself. DICHOTOMY?
hey kids don't think that stink bug, wide stances on a 6'6" cut it in the big book of style. i saw more ass in some of those photos then the beach north of san gregorio. square up those shoulders, lower the hands, and keep the ass under control.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 15, 2004 04:40 PMPEACE
Hey e, lerm - bon voyage! Have an amazing, fantastic vacation. In your honor I've butchered a popular song. While you're cruising warm, gentle, glassy olas, remember us, your bruised brethren:
On the first day of springtime, my True Love gave to me:
12 thumping closeouts
11 failed duckdives
10 frozen digits
9 peaks a-shiftin'
8 -teen knot onshores
7 seals a - leapin'
6 tons dead jellies
FIIIIIIVE BROOOOKEN BOOOOAAAAARRRDS
4 ice cream headaches
3 hour paddle
2 epic hold downs
and a looong cruuuise into the beeaaaach!
Have a blast! Cheers,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 15, 2004 05:02 PMps : OB surf reports, ( and surfing, arg ) on hold until I can catapult my crap out of this madness and into the next apartment. Though BVB is doing a much better job!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 15, 2004 05:05 PMs.s. sharkbait.......your posts never fail to put a grin on my face. rock on.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 15, 2004 05:09 PMyeah!
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Posted by: e at April 15, 2004 05:14 PMi hope that guy wins it all
Posted by: bagel at April 15, 2004 05:23 PMs.s., excellent! LOL! thanks a lot to everyone for the good vibes. unbelievably stoked!
Posted by: lerm at April 15, 2004 05:28 PMnice ss - always a creative/positive take on things!!
Posted by: d looose at April 15, 2004 06:09 PMi actually love it when the posting get's antagonistic. it just seems more fun in the midst of the niceness.
but i mean come on, alot of you guys are trying to defend......um i'm not sure what you are defending?
so those pics suck but the guy surfs pretty damn well.(and i always felt that any surfer who complained about longboarders usually sucks)
And check my november 20'th '03 post regarding lewis, he can surf too. (does anyone use "e" search or are you all dot commies giving the search to google?)
and i posted kdalles pics up back in the day. and his friends give him shit regarding his boards but the pics say.......he can surf. (k dalle that was a funny post today)
FUCK they could use me in the middle east.....but there ain't no waves...
...ok...fuck everyone but Pez E and Lerm who are living it and not talking about it.
Posted by: tom at April 15, 2004 08:40 PMoh yeah....i can't surf.
Posted by: tom at April 15, 2004 08:43 PMHey Tom, I got an idea. While e's away, maybe a crew of defectors should start up a new surf report page. Darwinian offshoot style. "badvibes.org" or "hate.com" or something like that. Maybe the whole "niceness" thing dosen't fit everybody. It could be cool, newcomers could be vibed and electronically stinkeyed until they've posted like, 8 times or something.
Posted by: Bad Breath Todd at April 15, 2004 09:28 PMBad Breath Todd,
Isn't that just Aggroville?
Posted by: at April 16, 2004 12:24 AMHey BVB, when did you turn into the on-line literary genius. Oahu was slow, Huh?
I've only seen you once since you got back, hope we can SHRED IT UP together soon brah!!!eeeeeeeaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwww!!!!!
Posted by: swoolybear at April 16, 2004 07:12 AMoh no kaisers allready lagging. probably surfing or applying zinca or something.
ok, sorry. thats the last negative comment ill make all month.
Posted by: bagel at April 16, 2004 11:06 AM...that was one hellava hazing yesterday - good-
Posted by: BVB at April 16, 2004 11:26 AMwhatever . the photog does bad work i'd say - 'cept for a few shots here and there - his timing and range are way off - made us all look REALLY bad. THE KOOKS WE ARE.
Thanks for the Viagra and support from the real surfers and to all of you with such high expectations:
SEE YOU IN THE WATER.
zinca - CLASSIC! remember that shit? oh man, the neon sunscreen....God bless the 80s....may they not come back
Posted by: j at April 16, 2004 12:11 PMkaiser - you're fired®
Posted by: j at April 16, 2004 12:11 PMVFers was kinda fun today if you were in the right spot
Posted by: bbr at April 16, 2004 12:19 PMKaiser friggin' slacking over on da islands in 80-degree water. I guess they don't have the megahypernet over there. BVB, well said.
Posted by: dano at April 16, 2004 12:56 PMbbr - were you out between 7:30 and 8?
I stopped by, and whipped out the video camera for about 5 minutes, but all I got was one wave, but it coulda been you.
kaiser, you are fired, hand over the reins to someone.
Posted by: blakestah at April 16, 2004 01:09 PMhttp://www.olympictrans.ru/fun/img/uglyZoo/
Posted by: bagel at April 16, 2004 01:20 PMblakestah - yes that was most likely me but i was flailing so badly today so i'm a bit scared of the footage. haha.
Posted by: bbr at April 16, 2004 01:58 PMhey kaiser...you got some splaining to do.
Posted by: jdz at April 16, 2004 02:03 PM"gone practicing"
Posted by: tom at April 16, 2004 02:12 PMheh
he could be stuck at the '88 stubbies pro.
Posted by: bagel at April 16, 2004 02:32 PMjust got back from Lindy. word is the tooth was spotted by a few folks on the north side today. was anyone there?
Posted by: bay newbie at April 16, 2004 02:57 PMKaiser mentioned a trip to AZ wave pools with some cat named Turtle from HI . Why that is on the tip of my proverbial tongue yet in 4hrs cannot process this #$#@@ spreadsheet in front of me is a worthy question
Posted by: steama at April 16, 2004 03:02 PMoh, cause I dig honus and never seen a artificial wave. and its friday
anyway, more Ms. Yummy shots and Kaiser wins me back- quick.
Happy surf-end y'all- off to SD
there was this one week in april where i didn't surf. oh, yeah, that was this week. so would like to get in the water.
i was totally excited to see the different flare of niceness today... but no dice. no kaiser.
anyway, hope everyone has a niceness weekend in aggroville!
mucho zinka!
Posted by: elias at April 16, 2004 03:21 PMoh there's kaiser, surrounded by hot chicks as usual.
ok enough kaiser abuse. its not as fun if hes not here to defend himself. to bad hes in his b@+#tub with turtle.
funny story: i met a crew of guys who grew up surfing at a wavepool in AZ, no shit. a couple of em were good surfers too. rick kane lives on...in us all...
Posted by: bagel at April 16, 2004 04:37 PMbbr, see
Posted by: blakestah at April 16, 2004 06:36 PMThis Quicktime Movie
that is definitely me! haha... thanks blakestah! also... if anyone's interested i just updated my web site with a bunch of new shit...
http://www.805bbr.com
11 straight hours of screen time today... definitely time to go get some beers...
Posted by: bbr at April 16, 2004 07:58 PMThis blog rules. Even if there are a few grouches who need to spew now and then, it's the best local surf knowledge around-- especially for a solo surfer like me. Thanks all..
-who
Posted by: who at April 16, 2004 10:27 PMsmoke pot
Posted by: EG Pimp at April 17, 2004 07:14 PMHeeyaa! OB turns on once again. Thank you mother nature I'll never doubt you again (yea right). Place never ceases to amaze. Currents didn't even suck for once. Then the Giants had to lose. But Barry US Bonds is the real deal. Baseball ought to get legit drug testing and lose all the inuendo, cause he'd be at the top of any heap I'd care to mention. Hasta
Posted by: banjo at April 17, 2004 09:48 PMHad a great sesh Friday for an unusual reason. After months out of the water it's been taking a while to regain the nerve factor. Finally in parts south had an incredibly easy paddle and with that extra energy ran for a 6 foot wave. At the very top realized I wasn't going to make it, involuntarily blurted "SHIT!!!" and ate it. Popped up and laughed. Later came face to face with a typical pollutica 6 foot walled closeout that I knew I couldn't scratch over, and couldn't duckdive yet either. Felt that twinge of fear, spun around and paddled for sure doom anyway. Got drilled. Repeated doomed waves a couple more times, got clock cleaned. Was actually relaxed in the underwater washing machine. My surfing is still dreadful, but after that sesh I'm very happy that the mental mojo back. Some wipeouts were just the prescription.
Last night dreamed I was actually cruising down the face of some 6 foot waves, maybe it's that close....or at least dreamtime karma payback.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 18, 2004 09:51 AMnice SS
nice bbr
nice OB
spring time is in full effect. BUMMER.
saw barrys 663'rd live.
e's in nicuragua
wheres kaiser???
Posted by: bageel at April 18, 2004 09:50 PMsaturday morning. at a beach south of the last stoplight in town. offshore winds winding through coastal canyons carrassing the open face of a wave, lifting, shaping. the thunderous CRACK of the lip as it meets the bottom of a wave. fark! the waters cold. just me, my thoughts, and some great waves. if you work for it, it's out there.
happy monday.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 19, 2004 08:02 AMsunday morning. at a beach right next to the last stoplight in town. onshore winds howling through grey skies hacking up the closed out face of the wave, crumbling, staggering. the whimpering MUSH of the "lip" as it meets the face of the wave. fark! the waters cold. just me, my thoughts, and some shitty waves. if you're too lazy to drive, it's out there.
happy monday.
Posted by: bbr at April 19, 2004 09:07 AMmonday morning. at an office right next to the old north south freeway. grey skies, filtered sunlight and winds whipping thru the trees make me yearn for coffee. the tell tale "driiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip...gurgle" of the coffee machine finishing it's brew cycle. fark! the waters warm. just me, my thoughts, and some shitty morning breath. i work for it, i'm out there.
happy monday.
Posted by: j at April 19, 2004 09:18 AMback in the office today after a week off. disappointment is softened by having surfed many sessions in so cal last week, including two lengthy outings at middles & uppers at the end of my trip, first time surfing trestles for me. tide was a bit high both times, but there was plenty o swell, and the crowds were not that bad, lots of peaks to go around. looks like spring sprang while i was gone, oh well, time to plan the next trip...
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