Umm, I like my bed...
Yeah, no surf dreams for me last night, no "mouth of this unreal barrel, getting spit into the flats, laying a GIGANTIC cutty back into the whitewater as 2 babes stare in awe..." 2 babes, I could talk about that forever, we will come back to this... Instead, when that alarm went off at 5:55 a.m., my alarm never took a worse beating. Kinda like one of those days when you go through the spin cycle several times on a solid outer bar day. You never really find that "groove" and it is just pure punishment. You know, the type of beat-down that causes the post-surf-nasal-drip-thingy for like 3 hours. Drips right on your shirt when you are ordering up your nonfat chai latte mocha with extra nonfat whipped cream at Starbucks post session. Well, the alarm ended up on the floor, right on top of my Surfer Mag, splattered on Kelly Slater's new signature line of boardshorts. Nice shorts by the way.
Sooo, I didn't have the mojo to check it this morning. I know, I suck. But the bouys didn't look all that great and the fog/rain/cold made me really comfy in bed so I just chilled there. So, if someone's got something, bring it and let us know what the real deal was out there. Looks like we are expecting some new swell today before the return of the mack comes in tomorrow (J, insert any rap line here...). Oh yeah, let's give a shout out to JDZ who is looking to add surfer #2 to his family quiver at any time!
I did tear away from Cube-Land last evening around 6:00 p.m. to get an hour or so in down in P-Town. Tiny at first but had a really good sesh. 2 guys out near me when I got out, about 10 when I left after my 20th little dribbler. A couple of lovelies in the lineup made it even nicer.
Alright, let's not forget that today is April 20th. 5 days after taxes are due just in case you forgot to do those. 10 days before the start of May. 41 Days before the start of June. Too many days to count until those October winds blow gently offshore. So, roll a phatty, back it tight (*but not too tight), and pass it around with some friends..............
OUCH!
Backside top-turn for me please...
Yeah, that works too!
These are my friends that I am spending 4/20 with... Don't be jealous!
I got bailed on by my friend who is also my ride. "Too wet outside." Went to work out instead. Conditions on the bay looked nice with only a little texture. It probably would have been FINE. Wusses.
At least I go home early tonight now.
Posted by: Nate at April 20, 2004 09:28 AMskipped today, but did a drive-by.
It is fairly small, definitely rideable, nothing to get excited about.
Tomorrow, however...
Posted by: blakestah at April 20, 2004 09:29 AMWoke at 4:00 AM to the yowls of my 14 year old cat, Mingus. Tried to sleep for the next hour and 15. Get up, reset alarm. Dress, check bouys, and DAMN, -Stah is updating his site at like 5 AM already. Walk the dog in the fog and try to imagine that it is good as the pea soup prevents any real determination of wave quality. Head home, suit up and just before the paddle out get enough of a view to pick the lb for vehicle. Maintenance surf. Caught about 10 over the next hour. When I got out it looked like complete garbage. No wonder I had been working for the last 15 min or so for that last one in. Or at least part way in.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 20, 2004 09:30 AM*WOW* kaiser, nice work on the early post! sorry, no hip hop this morn', went with a little incesticide to wake me up on the drive in.
The sun shines in the bedroom
Posted by: j at April 20, 2004 09:42 AMWhen we play
The raining always starts
When you go away
Kaiser we may have shared a peak in p-town last night, I was alone on an intermittent left off crespi until a couple of others paddled out, followed by about 10 more, including a couple of young ladies, as you say. I was riding a longboard as things looked pretty small from the cam at work. Slow session for me, but got a couple of fun ones. Howling side / offshores and the windsurfer in the line up made things interesting.
ptown was howling offshore/rainy and pretty fun last night from 6:45-sunset, i even connected a good 6 or 7 turns on my last left. kaiser, can't believe i didn't see ya out there.
happy 4/20 peeps
Posted by: loon at April 20, 2004 09:57 AMAh yes, and Kaiser...
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 20, 2004 10:18 AMThanks for reminding me why I had that bowl of puffs this morning on the way to work.
anyone going to MMW at Du Nord tonight?
thinking about going out right now since I am off from work this week, three people out on the surfpulse cam, looks daunting but I might have to get wet on this nice 4/20.
Posted by: barney at April 20, 2004 10:26 AM46059 - 9 am 15.7ft 13sec
Mekka-lekka-hi-mekka-chiney-ho
My hip is the color of an eggplant but I should be OK to go. Winds gonna hold off for Da Reef or is it a trip south.
Long live Jambi.
Posted by: at April 20, 2004 10:34 AM
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 10:50 AMwhen does it creep across #46026?
Posted by: tom at April 20, 2004 10:56 AMThe pundits are clamoring: WILL NICK AND JESSICA'S MARRIAGE WORK OUT???
Posted by: Bad Breath Todd at April 20, 2004 11:02 AMFurthering cunundrumage, a sunday morning rolled-down-window kellys to sloat driveby filled my truck cab with fragrance DE LA WALRUS BUTT. eeeeeeuuu--NASTY. Suicidal potstickers of the sea maybe?
Heretofore unmentioned yet effective anti-theft device: THE CLUBŪ
Mahalo nui loa to Soupspoonman for taking over the reins and leading us to water.
BUT-- let's never forget, Frankie Avalon is GOD. Oroweat Honey Wheat Berry Bread RULES!!
We now return to regularly scheduled BLOGgramming...
Kaiser - despite your lack of personal wetness this morning, you get props the early post.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 20, 2004 11:10 AMI'll keep my eyes peeled for you and that red fish-like board at Pedro when it's flat in The City. I'll be the older guy in the black wetsuit on the foam-white longboard. ;)
17 second energy will start after dark tonite, around 10 PM.
10 ft 17 sec very raw semi-sloppy 305 degrees.
It's gonna come in semi-sloppy, definitely blown from the NW by noonish. before then, it is a question. Raw, hacked swell at the beach? Join the crazies at the points? Drive to disneyland and jump in at space mountain? go to kdalle point someplace south? shoot video? My mind is full of uncertainty. The swell angle is 305, so it'll be smaller in disneyland than spots north.
the stench at the beach is the by-the-wind-sailors, velella velella http://www.earthwindow.com/velella.html
have a niceness day - definitely maintenance surf to be had out there
Posted by: blakestah at April 20, 2004 11:12 AMIf your uncertain where to surf I suggest today to refer to reefer on the way to a reef. 4/20 and the living is easy. INCREASE THE PEACE
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 20, 2004 11:27 AM
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 11:30 AMEric, as E would say, right on man! I think we I was #3 on the spot with you guys. I think it was you and then a guy with a yellow/blue Surf Perscriptions thing. Sweet board he had. I was on the Red Coffey Fishy Thing. I thought I would hide over there at your peak as the one to the north seemed more crowded. I guess you and I were killin it because clearly those 10 other peeps wanted to surf with us.
The water was gross last night! Loon, where were you?
On the early posts, I will try to get it in a bit earlier. E has the leisure of coming into work at like 10. Me, I usually am at my desk by 8:30 or 9:00. Believe it or not, this hear report is not easy. Think about how hard it is to entertain all you monkeys?
Hence the chica pics! Ha, just playin' y'all!
Posted by: Kaiser at April 20, 2004 11:41 AMPS: Thank you Bagel for sharing your contributions to artistic nether worlds. Because of TRON COSTUME-man I now see the world though different eyes.
Posted by: Bad Breath Todd at April 20, 2004 12:57 PMCar keys. I don't trust those little pockets in the wettie and there are way too many cars getting stolen from people who hide the key under the bumper.
For the last 10 years I've been wearing an extra key on a lanyard around my neck. Never lost one and never feel it when I'm surfing. Just tuck it over to the side of your torso and you won't end up with a key-shaped depression on your chest.
Often wondered why everyone doesn't.
Kaiser- great job. New career for ya'. But keeping a web site fresh IS a friggin' pain in the butt. I'm not sure how Ethan keeps the creative juices flowing day after day. I would help with photos but I surfed Linda Marginal this weekend and it just wasn't worth the tripod.
Posted by: Bruce at April 20, 2004 12:59 PMkeys - i put a key ring on my wetsuit zipper
Posted by: j at April 20, 2004 01:00 PMHAHA.. I haven't seen the geenie guy from peewee in days. What was his name? Kaiser, nice job on the posting brodudebrah! I got a puppy over the weekend. Boxer Dingo mix. He likes the water already.
Posted by: Ian at April 20, 2004 01:03 PMOK- A walk down memory lane. OB on Dec. 17- Big Wednesday.
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Posted by: at April 20, 2004 01:03 PMi was on the far north, wasn't too crowded when i arrived and i recognized a couple of the locals that were out from my work as surfcamp instructor. and yeah, water did seem dirty - i was spitting the whole time trying to keep the spray out of my GI tract.
Posted by: loon at April 20, 2004 01:06 PMhis name is jambi. and that is the orgin of all the meka-leka-hi-meka-hiney-ho stuff. i was just adding to no name's post. you know, they say that capt'n carl is a baad mother, shut your mouth.
awesome Bad Breath, glad you liked it. the interweb is a wonderous and magical place where anything is possible.
consumer report: i have never in my years had a key fall out of my wetsuit key pocket.
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 01:16 PMkaiser...thanks for the shoutout. just got back from a "utility" session at, what I like to call, the West Marin Pipeline (joke). Had to get wet, and actually had some fun.
back to the grind...
Posted by: jdz at April 20, 2004 01:19 PMInteresting six degrees of seperation from the Surf:
Jambi was played by John Paragon. Among his film credits, he played Professor in North Shore.
Did you know that Lawrance Fishborne played Cowboy Curtis, and Phil Hartman was Capt. Carl?
Put that in your pipe and Smoke it.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 20, 2004 01:34 PMKinda suprised we haven't heard from E yet. Perhaps he managed to steal some Ozzies girlfriend by hypnotizing her with stories about the Valley that Time Forgot and encounters with Emperor Necro, who spoke to him while in the form of a rusty nail which was holding up a clothes line, and is now off in the jungle with her, hiding from her boyfriend, celebrating 4-20 69 style. Or perhaps vacation means a chance to get away from all of us coldwater Kooks.
Posted by: traut at April 20, 2004 01:36 PMYeah, that was me with the PeeWee stuff. Fogot to post wiht my name. I taped it each week in '86 and just played the tape for the first time since then for my 2 year old daughter. She loves it!
More references-Larry "Bud" Melman (Calvert Deforest) appears with the playhouse gang which includes Natasha Lyonne. The music by Mark Mothersbough (Devo) is cool too.
Posted by: kdalle at April 20, 2004 01:44 PMgot back from a quick surf, looked fun when I got there (11:00) and then deteriorated a tiny bit with the wind pick up. could be a fun arvo sess if the wind stays this light though.
Posted by: barney at April 20, 2004 01:49 PMPeeWee Herman. Man, that brings back some solid memories. The tinfoil ball, loved it.
That guy had some issues. But just think, many of us grew up watching that wack-ass.
Loon, I was about straight out from Crespi on a left. It was one of those "if its breaking left, its for me" decisions. Just wanted to get some frontside mini-ramp practice in. Thinking about hitting it again should the winds hold. Not sure though.
Anyone get stoned yet today? Work is holding me down....
Posted by: Kaiser at April 20, 2004 02:27 PMwho posted that Big Wednesday pic? anyone know who the surfer is? props...thats a big wave.
happy 4:20 y'all...in about 2 hours i gotta ditch the cube, head to the nearest downtown park and lite up dis holiday. any niceness heads in the financial district jungle want to join me?
Posted by: luke at April 20, 2004 02:34 PMBruce is that shot one of yours? Sweeeeet. I need to get out there and shoot the big stuff I'm usually looking for waves, somewhere that I can surf...
Posted by: mexisurf at April 20, 2004 02:48 PMCosta Rica. Anyone know whether renting a board is a good idea vs. all the airline fees for bringing your own? i'll be there for 6 days in the NW/Tamarindo area. I heard there might be some decent options
Posted by: g at April 20, 2004 02:48 PMthanks.
Well, you've all been dying for my surfing news. I was following all your etiquette advice this weekend. Saturday at the far south part of Linda Mar, for a long (for me, anyway, 90min) surf. It was so gentle it wasn't even a workout. Caught a handful of waves, a couple pretty fun...but it was just a really peaceful morning on the water. Except, this guy kept setting up next to me and then expressing annoyance whenever I'd go for a wave. I wasn't dropping in or hogging or anything, so i'm guessing just a grumpy feller.
On Sunday I tried Rockaway 11-ish (OB looked not so good); there were just a couple of other people in the water, but some nice looking, sizeable, peeling waves at the north end with nothing south of that, so it was easy to paddle around. The water there was "churny" or something (maybe because the waves reflect all over the place in the small cove?), and the waves were fat and weird and I had difficulty catching them even though it seemed like I was timing it right. Anyway, it was a little frustrating but still enjoyable, and the few guys out there were cool. I'm trying to convince my wife to adjust schedules to let me get out a mid-week morning or two . . .
You've also been dying to know about my board so you can spot me out there and give me advice. My board is a blue "Anderson Surfboards" longboard (dimensions: it says "9' x 16 3/4 21 3/4 13 x 2 3/4", so I guess that's a little on the narrow side, and the guy I got it from last year (an OB surfer named Tom) says it has a lot of rocker for a longboard, which I guess means it turns a little quicker but paddles a little harder? On bigger and stacked-up days it's a challenge to paddle out, and I'm beginning to get curious about what it's like to ride more responsive boards, so I'm in the quiver-building mood. Should I go for a mid-sized board, or straight for the short board? I'm 42yo, 165lbs, 5'11". I'm looking at a used 6'6" squash-tail "Local Motion/Wade Tokoro" board. Is that likely to be too much of a challenge?
Oh, I broke TWO Timex Ironman-type watches while surfing this weekend. My precious "Speed and Distance" one that communicates with a GPS thingie, and then a cheap old one. Any suggestions for a good surfing watch?
Thanks, and sorry to babble.
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 02:54 PMyo g
Posted by: traut at April 20, 2004 02:57 PMI was in Southern C.R last year and didn't see many decent boards to rent (mostly long boards with missing fins). I think your chances get better the closer you are to P Hermosa. If you fly taca, its only 25$ per board so I would suggest just bringing one along. However, I have had friends that buy used boards down there and sell them for the same price before they leave, but of course there is an element of risk in doing that. Id suggest calling or emailing a surf shop in Tamarindo. Can't think of any names at the moment.
damn bagel, you're lucky. first day out in my new o'neill last year and the key pocket was hanging by a string. the key was a little big, yes, but surprised it tore thru the pocket on the first session.
anyways, i trust the key ring on the zipper more than a little flap of fabric sewn in.
Posted by: j at April 20, 2004 03:04 PMDuh, type in name where it says "Name"
Yeah Luke, that's one of my misty shots from December. The rest are on the Photos 5 page if you want to dream. Paste this link into your browser-
http://www.surfhumor.com/Photos%205.htm
Posted by: I know my name Bruce at April 20, 2004 03:20 PMKK: good luck, surfing (& especially ob) is a wholly different experience with a shortboard (or anything that you can duckdive). i am about the same dimensions but 6 yrs younger & went from 9'0" to a 6'6" 20-1/4 2-7/16 Robin Prodanovich swallow, worked out ok for me, but give the learning curve a good 6-18 months depending on how often you surf & general fitness. i'm not an expert but the things I looked for was width and flatter rocker. just wish my rails were tapered a bit more now...
quality of key pockets do seem to vary widely. i prefer ones that allow you to also put a string thru the key for backup - tie the string to a label - and where the pocket is on the upper back, as opposed to right on a rib.
Posted by: loon at April 20, 2004 03:25 PMheya klooless, think I've maybe had a couple 'hola's with you at s.Lindy on Sat mornings? I'll be looking for the blue Anderson amigo. My first board was a thick, wide, 7'0" round pin tri-fin (loved that board until Montara ate it on a loaned out to a friend day). I'm thinkin something in that range might make for a better transition for you. you don't need a "funboard/hybrid", but a big older board will suit you better working toward shorter/narrower/thinner/more responsive surfboard experiences.
My general use shorty is a 6'3" Dave Johnson "Progressive" swallowtail, white w blue pinstripe--but my knees and back are tweaked so I've been giving them some mellow longboard time, generally swapping out boards during sessions with friends, so uh no single board to be id.ed by???
Posted by: ben at April 20, 2004 03:29 PMBruce - took the oportunity to puruse your site again from that day. Line 11 seems to have a rad barrel sequence from that Day. That is the surfer whose identity I want to know. And Goddamn it, why I chose to surf VFW's that day will eternally haunt me.
Kaiser - I was blazing about 8:20 apre sess avant travaille.
On the Key tip. My Billabong has a loop of string attached which works fantastic. I have lost two keys from the pocket of my aleeda, but both times I found the key near my butt cheeks as I exited my suit.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 20, 2004 03:34 PMj, you've been driving your tractor to the beach again eh? nuck nuck. ya wetsuit key pockets are like the birth control patch, 98% effective.
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 03:40 PMoops i think that should read "nyuck nyuck"
pee wee rules!
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 03:41 PMLeash pocket....very secure, and even if your leash breaks, the strap is still wrapped around your ankle.
Posted by: Jack at April 20, 2004 03:43 PMklooles.
the six six will be a waste of your time.
lenny ferrara at longbeach NY surf shop told me years ago ---"chances are it's never going to be the boards fault...i mean you are never going to surf like slater....take the 7 foot"
and i did and i still don't surf like slates (i'm usually compared to curren) and it ain't ever been the boards fault.
get yourself a 7 6 and learn to duck dive....this way the board will turn plenty good for a begginner like yourself and and since it is 7 6 it'll catch a few bigger waves too when you get out to OB.... as well as save your ass on a few late takeoffs
Posted by: tom at April 20, 2004 03:46 PMoh yeah kooless...most surfers ride boards that don't work for them. only the very best belong on the little ones......so don't be ashamed your out there for a good time not to struggle..
Thanks loon and ben. Sounds like the shortboard would be a challenge but maybe not impossible. I like the idea of a bigger shortboard for now. It shouldn't be too expensive to experiment with used boards, selling the ones that don't work (though I'm guessing this is how people end up with garages full of surfboards).
Ben, this Saturday was my first time at the south part of Linda Mar; I've usually been at the mid-to-north bits. This time, I was way off by myself at the far south end for a while wondering why no one else wanted those waves, and then joined the crowd to find out (answer: it was a little bigger where they were, and longer rides). I hope to run into you soon.
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 03:47 PMtoday was really outstanding at VFW's the surf was better than it looked.
Posted by: phil at April 20, 2004 03:51 PMThanks, Tom, I'm getting great advice here! Seems I'm in the market for a long but duck-divable shortboard.
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 03:52 PM-- i meant the chalet ----
Posted by: at April 20, 2004 03:52 PMoh yeah...i'm 235 lbs so don't get caught in the pit when i come down the line......borrow a few boards k kook and then fine tune the size to your meager weight....
Posted by: tom at April 20, 2004 03:55 PMgood luck
oh yeah...in a few more sessions your going to need a new handle. maybe drop the klooless, you seem to be learning quick. in another month maybe switch the kook part up to as over the course of your surf career you will find many people have that name so how will we know who we are yelling at?
Posted by: tom at April 20, 2004 03:59 PMNothing wrong with a Garage full of Boards.
Best to have a few to choose from.
I have four that I ride regularly.
Happy happy everyone,
Time to blaze.
The word of the Day is
Chronic
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 20, 2004 04:18 PMI remember losing a key as a kid & having to beg a dime for the tele, calling my dad & making him drive clear to sandys- an hour w/ traffic. he was thrilled. that string trick works or attach the key ring to your ankle via leash, the little loop in a pair of birdwells works but only with a small key.
the crazy thing about lawrance fishborne is that one of his first roles was as "mr clean" in apocolypse now. what a way to start out!
Posted by: goodmorning at April 20, 2004 04:27 PMKookless Kloo,
If you plan on surfing more than once/twice a week, don't listen to the curmudgeons on the 12' boards (5.25" thick!)...
I switched from being a logger to a chipper several years ago... my advice is to start with a real shortboard (6'6" or so), take the learning curve on the head for a year, and then go with a bigger board on bigger days.
IMHO, your paddle strength will improve much faster this way, along with your balance and timing.
Once you get used to the paddling and the late takeoffs, you can surf just about any board in whatever conditions...
Posted by: ryan at April 20, 2004 04:29 PMlooking surfable at ob? ss, you out there?
Posted by: loon at April 20, 2004 04:35 PMAAAAAA!
too bad i cant take Laurence F seriously anymore after those piece of shit matrix movies.
Kooless while i never would preach anything that the movie North Shore teaches (besides spreading fresh aloe cuts) there is something to be said about how Trapper John taught Rick Kane how to surf like a pro..master all the boards first than pick the one you like..or something.
Posted by: bagel at April 20, 2004 04:37 PMHmm... looks like I need a 6'6", a 7'0", and probably a fun-board. Then surgery to extract the frying-pan from my forehead. :-)
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 04:40 PMIts 4:40, can I PLEASE take a bong rip now?
Posted by: Kaiser at April 20, 2004 04:40 PM7'0"...yeah, good starter
Posted by: ben at April 20, 2004 04:46 PM6'6"...sure, but not as the ONLY transition board unless want to get really frustrated.
probly no funboard.
surf a lot.
cheers
...of course it also depends on the nature of your local breaks :)
Posted by: ben at April 20, 2004 04:50 PMyo traut
Posted by: g at April 20, 2004 04:51 PMthanks for the tip. i think i'm gonna try to luck with a rental or even buy something down there since i'd like to transition to a diff't board anyway, but defo check first.
In regards to boards, I started with a 7'10'' funboard. Bought a "true" longboard. Hated it, sold it. Got a 6'8'' fun shaped shortboard. It was wider, rounder in the nose. Tail similar to a normal shortboard. Then down to a real 6'7'' shortboard. Now, I ride my 6'6'' everyday board.
I agree with Ryan though. Get something you WANT to ride once you feel you are close to handling it. Learning curve is steeper, rewards are better. If you don't want to log, don't buy a longboard.
Lastly, more is better. More foam, more width, more fun (at first).
Posted by: Kaiser at April 20, 2004 04:53 PM(At last too.) Owl Chapman rules!
Posted by: kdalle at April 20, 2004 04:56 PMk.k.,
ripper tom is right on the mark. the drop in size from a LB to a 7' is drastic enough. the extra foam from 6'6 to 7 will have you enjoying surfing more. and by keeping a bit more length will strengthen your turns so when you get on a 6.6 you'll be throwing buckets. btw i was in nor cal over the weekend. saw a beautiful surf perscriptions squash tail. it was 6'10" or 7'. full rails. sweet concaves through the tail. it would be perfect for what your seekeing. my wife had to pry it out of my hands as i was trying to pry my wallet out of hers. she actually thinks i have enough surfboards.
420 holidaze in effect sson. aloha
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 20, 2004 05:27 PMg - TACA experience(last December) paid the $25 times 3 cause I had three boards stuffed in a long board travel bag...Taca claimed I was over sized etc. mucho problemo. unpacked in tamarindo only to find a 4 in. punch through ding in the bottom deck. Took it to Marco, surfshop behind the chain link fence on the beach side of the road before you get deep into town. He had a few long boards hanging around and let me take one out one evening while he was repairing mine. (2 days - $25)
Posted by: big mig at April 20, 2004 05:44 PMDid not see any decent boards for hire any where in that blessed country...with the possible exception of coconut somebody's in nosara ...
do not keep valuables in your rental car while you surf ..... they will not be there post sesh.
Kaiser... props on filling in for da e-man. From what I saw in Cruz today, you didn't miss anything today. Your friends are pretty nice.
Posted by: dano at April 20, 2004 05:52 PM3to5, was it this board?
http://www.surfprescriptions.com/HVP.htm
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Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 06:07 PMwork sucks.
oh did i mention that work sucks.
arrrggg...
lebowski at the red vic tonight. ya know, the dude, his dudeness, el duderino....
can i go home now?
have a niceness everyone. peace and hopefully more surfing and less work will be on order for the next couple of weeks.
Posted by: elias at April 20, 2004 06:07 PMCancel that, it's not a squash-tail...
(I am Klooless, after all)
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 20, 2004 06:09 PMKK, props for asking a question that generated a pretty interesting thread. i thought it was really interesting to read everyone's chronology of boards.
my two cents: i started on a 7'2'' hybrind which was pretty funky and hard to ride. struggled for days, eventurally going to full-sized longboards, which i rode through my teenage years, eventually learning to handle riding them in serious surf where 9 foot of board no way to duckdive was a huge disadvantage. eventually i switched to a shortboard, which due to my recently snapped longboard (friendly i'll email you this sweek) is all i ride. Like ryan, i did the switch all at once: 9'5' to 6'4'. it was a bitch. totally like learning to surf again. but i think its better than doing it gradually- you get stronger and become a better paddler, and you can grow into your board- instead of realizing while paddling out in the decent sized swell that its pretty fucking hard to duck-dive a 7'6. knock a foot off that and it will be a lot easier to learn.
good luck, and hang on to your other board to go rip on when you are getting frustrated.
just got baked but back at work. peace...
Posted by: luke at April 20, 2004 06:18 PMNo surf report , alas still moving...enjoyed your writing, Kaiser!
KK: We might be on a similiar page. I got a 6'8" after starting on an 8' Stewart. Pure longboarding's fine but despite my best efforts I was getting utterly destroyed paddling out. [ I bow down to everyone who takes longboards into the soup!] I can practice duckdiving on the 6'8", plus now I just get abused by the ocean, as opposed to being hammered by the ocean AND hauled around by the heavier board. FYI I'm about 125 lbs so apply the math to yourself... in my case the 6'8" is like a long shortboard. Far easier to handle, can really keep a grip on it, and it glides - or, uh, flies - into waves or onshore bumps or anything on offer. Very, very happy with the transition. First day was utterly ridiculous but after that I've been perpetually stoked. Didn't make the switch for surf savvy reasons, but personal kooky preference. Anyway there's my 2 cents! Have fun....
Posted by: s.s. snailbait at April 20, 2004 06:55 PMps Tom I pray you do not mow me down, eep
Klooless Kook... whatever you buy that is smaller, be ready for lots and lots and lots of frustration (you will find that even learning to duck dive properly is hard and, of course, takes forever to learn). But stick with it. Did I mention it will be frustrating?
I did the LB to 7'3" transition. I couldn't really duck dive that big of a board since it was a pig (I'm 155). I hated the thing. If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably quit surfing... erh, actually, I think I would purchase a 6'8" kind of fishy board (a little wider, somewhat less rocker and wider nose). Something like that would be easier to paddle and balance on. So now you have about 5 boards to buy now.
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put it in the air
Friend #1- I wasn't intentionally being deceptive, but the last shot in Row 11/Photos 5 is actually a different wave. I've sent off so many disks that I've forgotten the guy's name in the first four frames. I'll check my laptop at home and see if I can figure it out. Real nice guy from Marin, as I recall. Took him 90 minutes to get out back and then he charged some of the biggest waves that day. He tucked inside that bomb and then just got killed. He was soooo stoked that someone caught him with a camera on one of the biggest waves of his life. What incredible shape one must be in to survive that pounding. I was out of breath just watching!!
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