E's Surf Report

After reading that, I think I am starting to sound like E or something. This report is leaking into my veins...

Kaiser - you da man. Keep it comin'

great report kaiser, keep up the good work! the mist this morning reminds me of spring days up in oregon...ahh the memories, altho think of the money i've saved in rain-x and goretex since living here.

Saw Lewis building a wave count through a competitive pack just after dawn.

Also. It was really, really really great and fun reading your personal stories of all the boards you guys owned but I thought we were trying to help out Klooless Kook?

The guy is 42, married and just because he may even have a job I think it would be "not nice" to try and offload our 6'6"'s that we can't ride 'cause they are too small, on him. Even if you plan on giving it to him for a "really good deal"

I know, I know it's just business.... but sending him off on an 18 month learning curve when he missed surfing for the first 42 years is downright cruel.

what is happening?! i'm gone for 1.5 weeks (for a little Centro Americano slurf trip!) and i come back to find Kaiser leading the charge with the report...and doing so with blatant self-examination and historical introspection! what's next?...psychedelic musings from he with self-proclaimed "just-the-facts, ma'am" tendencies? worried that the universe had turned inside out, i checked yesterday's report. whew!...the pic of Kaiser's "friends" assured me that all was right! ; )

[just jokin', amigo...way to step up to the plate and keep the stoke of the daily update alive!]

as for me...my broken toe (a leash-wrap between my toes while gettin' cleaned out by a bowlin', mackin', evil set on the last day of my trip to blame)...and a lack of enthusasm to jump into 52F water after too many waves to count in 82F water...kept me snuggled in my comfy bed this morning. thus, the only run-in i had with hurly-burly conditions was some truly bizarre and surprisingly aggressive road-rage on the morning commute. quite mystifying why some folks get so worked up!...especially when a "delay" simply means missin' a few minutes of werk! bizarre.

anyway...sorry 'bout the long post, niceness. it's good to be back.

Made the super early trek down to the lane this morning where there was plenty of size but some serious morning sickness too. Super foamy all through indicators with sets coming through both the slot and middle peak somewhat unpredictably and a lot of water moving around.

Decent shape, more predictable line up, and less competition from the statue down around the corner into the top of cowell's. Quite a few nice walls in between the mushers and a handful with linkable sections way into cowell's proper. A fun session but not the expected sweetness.

Seemed like it was cleaning up with little more tide and still plenty of swell...

ck...welcome back, can't wait to hear more about the trip. Sorry to hear about the toe. Had a similar thing happen to me in fiji...got booted...leash wrapped around my arm and then pulled right down the length of my forearm...snagged for a moment on my watch...the POP, off it went...my watch that is. I figured it was a decent sacrafice to the reef gods. Glad your toe stayed on!

Kaiser, great post...i think we are on the same plateau, but on opposite sides. My backside bottom turns/top turns confound the hell out of me. I've been trying to tweak things as well and just can't seem to get it dialed. I keep watching videos and guys just really crank their upper bodies around and compress those legs...so I try to emulate...but can't quite get it figured out. Need to surf more!!!

If you figure out the secret...please do tell.

nice one kaiser. old school surf forcasting, funny. "the bluebird sings!" "8 ft and offshore!" welcome back ck at least it was the last day of your trip. funny story a friend of mine whos been surfing a while sold a mutual buddy a 6'3 to learn how to surf on. he learned how to get up on it though after about 4 months.

way to keep it alive in true e fashion ..whining about inabiltiy to rip a move which is beyond the capability of most of us kooks.....surprised nobody told klooolesss to invest in a nice 8'6' 19" pointy nosed speed gun ...doesn't every beginner get that "tapping the source" treatment at least once? what's the blakestah predicting for the weekend --- cleaning up?

jdz...i hear ya on the "sacrifice". i felt similarly. though...i am glad that it didn't pop off like your watch! ; ) i did manage to squeeze one last warm-water sesh in after the toe-breaking morning sesh (had to be done!), but by that night at the airport everything was puffy and purple! no way i coulda slurfed the next day so, as bagel pointed out, the "silver lining" was that it happened on my last day. ahhhh...niceness...always lookin' on the bright-side! luv it!

thanks for all your tips on rhode island, gang. i got some pretty fun waves near my parent's house on friday and then the swell died. i've got some pics but i haven't uploaded em yet. it's a long, fun, fast left that i definitely hope to catch during a hurricane swell one day. upon return to norcal, surfed this morning at a spot that i'm sure i'm not supposed to mention on the internet and it turns out there are some bay area surfers who can really rip. i mean, yeah, wow, stick it boys! who needs santa cruz!? thanks for the sweet shots of the girls in form, kaiser. go sofia!

turn..turn...turn..the seasons (ehh...winter again?—maybe some real juice over the weekend? blakestah..yer thoughts?)

s curves.....
turning a board as well.....seems to me that the weight
over the board through the turn keeps the drive and flow
into the apex and through, then onto the next...much like punching the gas on a rear wheel drive car as one goes into a curve. on a shortboard this means staying on a rail inside then outside to transfer that drive up and back down the face. ever snowboarded....in DEEP pow?
when the board (snow) rises as that transition occurs and then
sinks back in as the rail connects.....
in the liquid form....get too flat yer dead... the wave passes by....

wish there were some nice glassy faces to have a turn clinic myself right now.....thoughts of monday morning....damn that
was choice.

vfw's was really pretty nice yesterday at 3 > 3.45p
(stole a quick session between classes) this swell was just
starting to show....a short session beat the hell out of facing
a class of surly kids.

i too checked the Unmetionable Spot, it was looking so good- but there were like 30 guys on it, all ripping. I watched from the bluff for a while and I- like steamwand- was totally impressed by the caliber of surfers just tearing up these big sweet long walls.

Feeling a bit intimated by the size of the crowd and the size of the buckets being thrown (and hearing- from the cliff no less- lots of nasty words being exchanged) i tucked my tail between my legs, and drove south. Where it was small and poluted. i blew it....anybody else score? I chatted with the supermen at sloat before they paddled out- report? it was hard to tell how it was out in the soup.

I was out a little north of the Lane this morning, but still inside SC city limits. Saw two teams practicing tow-ins way outside, though where I was the waves more more manageable, though inconsistent.

FYI-

Bacteria high at Lindy

south swell coming net week or so, blakestah can give you the details!!!

Nice work Kaiser. your channeling E.

As a fellow goofy foot.......
The backside bottom turn is the most powerful turn in all of surfing. quite different then the frontside top turn. the velocity going up a wave face is a direct response to the speed you genereated from the bottom turn. as you reach the top and your velocity slows is when you re-direct your momentum. at this point your weight is not directly over the surfboard. therefore you don't have as much control over the board as you do when it's under you. even though you can power a gouge on the face. it's more of a flick and less of a carve. backside you have more leverage over your surfboard. a good bottom turn is always a carve, never a flick. if you flick a bottom turn, your just angling down the face. low center of gravity, knees bent at the bottom of the wave and torso twisting in the direction of the turn will have you springing up the face like occy in no time.

additionally, fish tend to be more of a skatey, flicky kind of surfing due to the wider nose and tail keeping you flatter through turns. that's why they are so fast and why they excel in small and mushy surf. your issue might be fish related?

I gotta agree with Tom on the board selection for KK. I barely remember being 42 but I was riding a 6'10 that was feeling smaller and smaller with each passing season. I think a 7'6 to 7'9 funboard would be a good move for KK.

I had a Hinds 7'9 fun shape that I actually found in the parking lot at Kelly's a few years ago- no, not in the back of someones truck but on the pavement. Anyway, that board had a lot of rocker and turned really nice for it's size. Paddling was good too. On some days I miss it. That's a good type for KK IMHO.

I also remeber as a kid being able to get a fairly good weather reading from the leaves on the oak trees in my South Jersey yard. I couldn't predict wave size from the leaves but they surely changes colors with air pressure. Maybe the change in humidity had an effect. If the leaves were bright green in the early morning, there was a front moving in so I knew there would be ridable waves. I was clueless in the winter though.

I woke this morning at the butt-crack of dawn. Loaded the vehicle, and snuck out. Headed for Disneyland.

Going south through the fog I realized I got no radio stations and only have a tape for a two year old. I tried not to imagine myself driving off a cliff.

Pulling in at the promised land, eastside, I met a guy from the Freeline factory. We surfed waves. These shoulder high, ultra clean, waves. I rode the funboard RFS first, and then his board. 4 turns, 5 turns, 6 turns, even a little noseriding on his 8'8" board. His first wave on my boards was super ultra long, and he thought the RFS "dramatically reduced the turning radius. I went into the bottom turn, leaned on it, and boom, I'm up in the face." I left the board there and drove back. BTW, it was glassy and sunny and kelpy. They have it soooooooo good.

The second most northern creek was going OFF on the drive back. But the most impressive spot was El Granada Jetty. This spot was throwing the most perfect waves ever. Like, long peeling rights, looked like J-Bay. Two guys loving it - if I'da had a board I'da been all over it.

Kaiser, keep your weight higher than the board going into a top turn, and then swing the board around you. Watch the 111903 video, and look at Ragnar and Jesse do their snaps. The body center of mass is above the board, leaning into the wave. Then, the board is allowed to rotate around the body's center of mass, which moves MUCH less. This only works if you start ahead of the board.

This weekend will be north wind gradient and windswell, if the wind turns northerly enough, MIGHT be rideable.

3to5, good wrap up there! I definitely look at it as a turn or carve more then a flick. I try to shift/move my weight to where it needs to be where it sounds like I should just lighten guide the board. Use the wave to keep my weight off my board.

I always boog my rail and end up with my back against the wave like I am trying a lay-back or something. It has to look funny.

Luke, what time were you in the lot? Nice work to those of you that charged SC. I bet it will be solid all day down there.

Point Disneyland was open for business this morning. I was a total slacker. Got some coffee and read the paper to let the tide fill in a bit, let the clouds clear, bring on some sunshine and have mother nature warm things up a bit. Then I hit my favorite stealth spot.

Some nice fun juice this morning, and kelp like you wouldn't believe. On one duck dive I dove and didn't come up 'cause I was farking seriously tied up in the stuff. Jeez, like I wrote some bad checks or something. Oh, and you couldn't sit where you wanted to since there was so much kelp everywhere. I was forced to sit in the one area near the boil that was relatively kelp free. Forget about paddling to catch the shifty ones; I just had to wait for one to come to my little meadow in the forest of kelp. On the plus side, at least I didn't get one of those kelp/fin stops. You know, the kind where you are going mack 5 and you hit a patch of the stuff and just get slammed into the water as you board stops dead in it's tracks.

Anyway, point surfing isn't real surfing. Beach breaks are where it's at.

Kaiser, way to step up today. Pretty soon you're going to be regaling us with stories of King Neptune and magical sea shells!

Mainlining Mexico in t-minus two weeks.

If I smoked as much weed as E, I might trip out on King Neptune and his army. Maybe I will give that a "go" this weekend???

I love the kelp brake! Nothing more amusing then a full on eject-to-head-slap and finishing the ride off with a full body skip. Always feels good.

got a good am session at swift st. or mitchels, i dont know what the names are, i do know it was fun but i got caught in a few closeout sections that killed great potential down the line turns. fun, not quite epic. looks like tomorrow will be flat.

kaiser - maybe one day when its phlat you can start a king neptune story. everyone can write in as the story progresses. would be super funny to see how the story ends.

Korewin- could you post (or send to me) somemore details about your 6'8 swallow tail. Im going to get one made while im in N.Peru (SAT!!) and want to be sure I do it right. Looks like I will have some swell down there:
http://buoy.ocens.net/wxnav.jsp?region=PE&program=Maps

kaiser, an off the top is a lot like an orgasm. pent up power - then - release. As far as the boggy bottom turn. i'd advise practicing some low center of gravity drawn out backside carves on a skateboard. a little trick i do is pick to parallel lines say 10' apart going down the street or sidewalk. then one of those lines is the trough of the wave the other the lip. a little creative visualization and on a flat surfless day your top to bottom ripping 10' faces. imho the fish could be the reason your not getting truly on rail on your backside bottom turn.

"Kelp, I need somebody. Kelp not just anybody. Kelp you know I need somebody....Kkeellpp."

Kaiser- i was at the lot at sloat about 7:15 or so. red 4runner.

Medeski Martin & Woord report: 4/20 MMW show at cafe du nord- off its bloody face. so good i don't even have words...but i'll try. they would dip into some weird experimental shit at times- very trippy, very cool- but for 90% of the show they just straight up JAMMED, like jammed harder then anyone i;ve ever seen. I saw Phish in Vegas on saturday night, at a huge arena with tons of crazy lights and lots of crazy drugs- and it was nothing compared to last night. There are shows tonight and tomorrow (same venue), tickets are sold out but plenty availible on craigslist- where i got mine at like 5pm yesterday. Go. even if you are only kinda into MMW you will leave the show a huge fan. That;s what happended to me at least. I have never seen 3 muscians work off each other better, and in such a small venue...it was like watching your buddies rock out in the living room. Except you are hearing world class talents. Amazing.

Other than a couple of notable exceptions, I basically missed the whole Ocean Beach season this year due to a reoccurrence of an old back injury. Now that I'm pretty much "all better," all this talk about frontside topturns and backside bottom turns has me jonesin’ BAAAAAAAAAAD to get on my “shorter” board. Got no time today. Hope some of this swell lasts into tomorrow afternoon, hope the wind stays off it, hope I’m feelin’ spunky, hope …
Kaiser – smoking it to enhance one’s creativity rarely does. You’re more likely to end up eatin’ a bunch of Rice Krispie Treats and getting’ the keys all sticky. ;)

damn 3to5, i like the skate/visualization idea. my buddy recently made me an INSANE longboard skate, if i can borrow a digicam around these parts i'll take pics. the guy has a background in doing marine woodwork (old chris craft boats and shit), did a lam with 5 different woods, it's insane.

what about a niceness mad libs post? has e done that yet?

J- what's the name of your buddy's skate company? that sounds like Greenbrew, those boards are sweet. BUT- nothing is like the Carveboard. if you want to improve your surfing by skating, ya gotta get one. big, air-filled tires (road slicks, super wide), spring loaded trucks, a big deck about the size of a snowboard. Carve the best cutties of your life- in a steeply banked driveway coming down a steep hill. Seriously, you won't understand it till you try it...I skated all kinds of boards, from mountain boards with bindings and nobby tires to homemade stuff, but when I got on the carveboard i was hooked. I now skate a couple days a week, solid 2-3 hour sessions in golden gate heights, ttwin peaks, potrero hill, Mt Tam, fuck- anywhere steep. Its the perfect cross between surfing/skateing/snowboarding. And SF is the perfect playground- its like a huge ski resort, with steep grades on all aspects of the many hills and kindly muni drivers (read: chair lift) to take you back to the top. Like Brad Gerlach says: when the surf sucks, carve. I've heard lots of hype over the years but this board is the real deal. Demos availible at Aqua.

ok, my sales pitch is done. and i really want to leave work and go rip 10th Ave right now...

I was actually thinking about a Carveboard sometime. They also have a new "normal" wheeled version called the Stik. Picture below if it works.

Luke - Try Legion of Honor to Robin Williams' house. Hang a left at RW's house and check the waves. Have a buddy shuttle you back up. Killer run.

yo traut....

6'8" fish-like swallow....it is from SA
shaped by jason ribbink url>www.biltsurf.com

it is 19.5 wide and 2.5 thick so the back quarter
or third gets fat like a fish and the front is a bit
narrower more short-board like.

go to boardgallery it is a lot like that 7'2'
on their site.

hope that helps. it IS a rippah.

Anyone see the towin at OB last night about 6:30ish?

Kaiser...when we carvin' Rollins Lake Road again?

Tahoe, I didn't know you were dialed in! Nice work. You name the time. I just hope Marco brings his wrist guards, I can't bear to see him miss another winter with a carveboard injury. You know how those southern folk are up in the cool, thin air of California. They get light headed and do crazy things.

note to self...get carveboard. And speaking of tow ins...has anyone seen the Billabong Odyssey dvd? got through the opening sequence last night and then my 2 year-old demanded to watch brother bear...but holy crap that opening sequence is nice.

Sounds like fun down sc way...am jealous of the peeps who can get down there.

my own version of gnarly frothy madness was coming home this afternoon to a projectile vomiting display by the aforementioned 2 year old. I mean holy shit...do you all remember the excorcist? good stuff!!!

skaating tahoe... Donner Summit Run, on the old pass road (the road that sugar bowl is on). Start at the top, or at the bidge, its a couple of miles, about 2500' elevation drop. pretty decent pavement, kinda of lot of gapers with kansas plates...

Protection: wrist guards + welders gloves. oh, and helmut.

luke - my buddy doesn't have a skate company, i guess he was perusing ebay one day and saw some for sale and figured he could make something like that for fun and try and sell 'em. he's still finishing up the others, he gave me his prototype...reminds me i need to measure out the distance between the trucks for him!

tahoe...i wish all the roads were as nicely paved as that parking lot at mt. rose, that thing is schmooooooove as my girls...umm...shit, i don't have a lady anymore - BUT I'M TAKING APPLICATIONS LADIES!! kidding...well, i guess actually if you sent applications i'd accept 'em...anyways off subject

anybody have any classic skate wipeouts? i remember the first day i got my longboard skate up in WA, me and a buddy were cruising around seattle and went down one of those hills that flow from capital hill to the water (any 206'ers around here?), anyways cruising, speed wobbles....come around a corner to brush off speed and it's downhill....end of the road is closed off, barriers and yellow tape, for construction work....thinkin wow this is gonna suck, try to relax and ride it out, time my dismount as the board hits the dirt....anyways, before making it to the dirt (while standing, i still made it to the dirt...) i must have hit a rock or something cuz my board went from superfuckincontactlenswaterin' fast to zero in about .000001 of a second...launched from board...lands on back of neck/shoulders....shirt proceeds to come off - not torn off, just straight up and over my arms/head...aaaaaaaaannnd finally it stops and i spring to my feet. this old couple was walkin by as it happened and i swear they left themselves something in their depends, they were trippin', i was like 'nah, nothing really damaged but my pride', altho i was fully ventilated on my hands/knees/back (was wearing shorts)....yeah, that was a classic 'welcome back to seattle' gift. my sleeping bag still has the blood stains - was living on my buddy's floor at the time til i could find a place. was reaal lucky i didn't crack my skull open again.

anyways, long post. rock on.

Water is sooo much softer!

rock on, kaiser! you're a total natural.

i second the motion that you pick up e's yarn with king neptune...

Laughing at the idea of unloading too-short boards on me.

I was at NorCal in Pacifica picking up body board fins for my kid and looked at some of the boards. They sure are purdy. The guy there recommended going in the mid 7's with a shortboard shape and narrow enough (I think he said 19"?) and thin enough to make duckdiving easy.

Nobody was out at Linda Mar or Rockaway at 5:30, but there were plenty of waves---every four seconds, even!

And by the way, I don't know how I typed 42; I'm "only" 41.

Thanks Tom and Dennis, for the advice.

Klooless - chiming in late, but i think that a mid-7's, shortboard-shape, 19-inch, duck-divable board is an aggressive start. doable, but aggressive. i missed the original discussion the other day, but if you're truly just starting out, i'd go for something quite a bit bigger. not necessarily that much longer (unless you want to go the classic longboard route...always a nice board to have down the road even if you move to shortboards in the future) but definitely thicker, wider, and with a more rounded nose. on a board like that you won't really be able to duck it, but you will catch waves a LOT sooner and have way more fun. plus it gives you an excuse to buy another board in a few months! ; )

anyway....just my $0.02.

Thanks, ck. I've been longboarding for a year, now, so I'm able to paddle out, catch waves, and that probably makes me sound better than I am, but I'm the guy a few months down from what you're assuming (I think), so this is the second board.

ahhhh....gotchya, KK. i was thrown off by your self-deprecating moniker. so...revising my advice...if you're lookin' to go the short(er)board route, perhaps the NorCal dude's rec wasn't that bad. though...19" still seems a bit narrow. maybe the same length and shape he's recommending with just a touch more width for paddling and stability? just a thought. good luck!!

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