Time Out
No sub 6:00 a.m. alarm blarring some crap-ass, half-static, motown jam in my ear. No "night before" nervous anticipation of the morning surf. No packing preparation needed to make sure I have gear for work. Just a calm, mellowness coupled with dull, sore shoulders and back muscles. First time in a very long time that I can recall having sore legs from surfing. Mentally and physically it is great to feel sore and satisfied from the surfing perspective.
After surfing 8 sessions in the last 5 days, I forced myself to take a day off today. For me, I find it nice to seperate and distance myself from surfing sometimes. Recharge. Rejuvenate. Refuel. Then Relapse..... Ha.... Always love to relapse! Totally appropriate word there. Because it is a drug, an addiction of sorts. If it gets you, it gets you good. If you understand this, you know what I am talking about.
Surf Report: Alright, enough of that, here is the deal out there today and some things to think about:
Bodega Bay Bouy wind: 25 kts from the NW
SF Bouy wind: 15 kts from the NW
HMB Bouy wind: 10 kts from the NNW
(you get the idea.......)
Swell still solid and in fact it built overnight to 7-8 ft. @ 15-17 sec. Should stick around for a few days as it decays. Head south, clog up some lineups, drop in on your brother (or sister), put a smile on your face, enjoy the sunshine! Definitely some good surf out there but it appears to be a little farther drive today, that's all.
Last thought: I was watching a program on KQED last night about Weather Underground. For those not familiar, WU was established in the same vein as the Black Panther movement and the like in the 60's. Many of these movements were in direct response to the war in Vietnam and the unsettled nature here at home at the time. A really good, educational, thought provoking program. I wasn't alive yet, so I didn't live with the turmoil of this time. Any thoughts from those more knowledgable...... Correlations to the cyclical nature of things and where we are today within this cycle........
What film is this from?
shelter.
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 09:54 AMAnyone interested in one of these:
Dell Optiplex GX100 w/ 17 inch monitor
cpu = Celeron 433
mem. = 64mb
hd = 6.4 gb
$75 - $90
Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 09:54 AMMan, the surf must really suck if we are posting craigslist ads now.
I guess we'll cut Kaiser some slack since he is running the site after all.
I too opted out of this mornings chunkiness in favor of family time this AM. Had to help out since I will be out tonite seeing TV on the Radio.
I only had 5 sessions over the last three days, but I am sore and saited. I didn't surf Saturday, I just broke up about 100 square feet of Concrete in the Back yard in stead.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 28, 2004 10:24 AMWhat up niceness folks. The trip to costa rica has been fun surfing but a little ruff on the psyche. The waves have been good everyday with yesterday producing some DOH wave at a sick spot south of Pasquales called TIcla. Hella sick left. So much fun.
We surf everyday almost alone. Head chigh waves at least evry friggin day.
Hey we had some problems with the Sinaloa Surf Camp near Mazatlan. Gringo weas claiming a point that we happen to come upon by accident. He ripped one of gregs fins off and he and i got into a little scrap. Remember dont throw punches in the water, squeezing works a lot better.
Tom
good call on the 7 4 i needed it yesterday and probably will again tommorrow in Escondido. I didnt even want anything to do with pasquales. dudes dropping into near 3xoh on 10ft boards and a couple almost dying.
well I am surfing my ass off. well post some good surfing pics soon via http://www.hometownmedia.tv
Posted by: pez at April 28, 2004 10:30 AMkeep surfing...i probably wont make it to Costa as our leader is full of shiat...more updates later
Kaiser...this report is really gettin' into your veins, amigo. yesterday a psychedelic-esque poster (very kewl, btw), today discussion of the Black Panters and motown references! you're sounding more and more like e all the time! ; )
i too "enjoyed" using the onshores as an excuse to drink too much wine last night, stay up late, and sleep in. a nice change-up, foshur....but let's hope it doesn't last too long!!
Posted by: ck at April 28, 2004 10:37 AMHey Pez easy on the names Buddy.....
Posted by: mexi surf at April 28, 2004 10:40 AMYou folks must have had some bone-wrecking wipeouts yesterday. I indulged my new habit when it's too impossible and/or too stupid to paddle outside, which is to stick inside, play chicken and dodge 'em with the heavies, practice popups and catch any weird thing I can. Chicken and dodge 'em was out of the question today, the surge is so strong I could hardly walk. Had the biggest impact-to- size tumble ever - 3 foot junker and three love taps from my board on the hip, head, and elbow. Pondered the fate of some of the newer surf folks who paddled out into this south. Enjoyed sharing wavey space with a curious seal. Noted that catching the whitewater, or anything, feels uncannily like getting your car rear ended while idling at a stoplight. Do doo do...BAM! Shot out of a cannon.
So yeah, OB: sunny/hazy, windy, extremely crossed up on the inside, and HEAVY. Gloriously inconsistent. South power plus Northern clumped up junk? If you can lasso one of these suckers there are some supremely fickly mushy rocket launchers , very brief rides up to OH and OH plus on occasion, head/shoulder common. No one out but the occasional seal and resident fool. If you weigh less than 300 lbs recommending weighted diver boots for the wade out. Then a good rip - the paddle will be an SOB without one!
Sorry long post...just having fun pondering this wacko beach break. Cheers,
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 28, 2004 10:45 AMisn't that shot is from sept sessions? scene where the one irish guy is talking about "rollers", and the other one points gerlach toward the finest pint in town ("sweet as a nut")?
i too took the morning off. i am deep into an addiction cycle this april -- had an 11 day streak during my vacation, many of those double or triple session days. trip to the eastcoast from 4/21-4/25, but have been out 5 times since sunday.
given the difficulty of accessing bo-bo, and the likelihood of this swell dying before the weekend, i'm going to risk it and ask how this south is doing up there - any reports?
Posted by: loon at April 28, 2004 10:46 AMhttp://www.bushflash.com/unb.html
come back offshores..
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 10:54 AMPUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT!
Got my car back minus boards in socks, expensive glasses, binocs, two pair of jeans to be returned, a quik jacket.
Car was otherwise as I left it. Seemed that it was sitting at 44th and Sloat for the last 5 weeks and being ticketed each week. (I'm not liable)
Hide a key and my shorts were on passenger side floor so my theory that he spotted me hide the key was accurate. The key does not start the car so he then went to the back and found my wallet and "real key"
He went on a shopping spree with the credit cards in John Daly and Serramonte centers.
My summation is that due to the knowledge of the area (shopping history) and thievery of all surf related items while touching nothing else and then leaving the car only 4 blocks away almost immediately..........
........well. I betcha he gets another car at Sloat as I assume he lives near where he left mine.
Don't roll the dice. Take the key in the water with you and don't ever drop in on me or anyone else. Paddle to the foam.
In all seriousness....don't leave the key....
Posted by: tom at April 28, 2004 10:54 AMWhen I was in high school, the principal told us if we joined SDS, the FBI would be watching us for the rest of our lives. This was not far away from the McCarthy era.
Posted by: Dennis at April 28, 2004 10:56 AMBait, good work getting out there! I love "supremely fickly mushy rocket launchers"!
CK, thanks man! I keep debating whether it is actually my thoughts coming out or if this realm is shaping them this way. As I have stated, I am not much for the psycho-imagary that E provides but I guess I have settled into my style.
Gotta give props to that guy, this here report is not just simply sitting and typing away. You actually have to work on it. Call it self-sensorship if you will.
Speaking of my style...
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Posted by: Kiaser at April 28, 2004 11:06 AMoh yeah. 22 bud lights also were in the car.
8 still missing (were on ice in a 6 pack cooler that said Bank of America on it)
Owner, heartbroken...please call if you have any information.
Posted by: tom at April 28, 2004 11:13 AMIt's so good to learn y'all are surfed out. Time to enjoy other aspects of your lives. You'll get some chances to surf again if your niceness. Time to blow.
Posted by: Northwest Wind at April 28, 2004 11:13 AMxoxo
Northwest Wind
Hey pez,
Echoing Mexi's comment with some authority:
There wouldn't be pissed off gringos beating you up if stupid techies like you didn't go posting the names of theie favorite spots...
Do you want it to be uncrowded next time you come down?
Think man!
Posted by: crazy gringo at April 28, 2004 11:15 AMI might have to start regulating I guess....
Tom, great to hear you got your gear back. Sucks about the boards but just think how psyched you will be should you see someone ridding one! More importantly, I am sure your beers went to a good home. At least let's hope so... Next 12'er is on me should you ever paddle out with me!
Dennis, strange times back then I guess. So different now. I remember the days of riding down to 7-11 on my dirt bike, throwin' it in the racks. Taking my $5, getting a Slurpy and BBQ corn nuts, and playing Donkey Kong for like 3 hours. Kids can't do that shit these days.
Slowing becoming my favorite surfer minus Slates:
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 11:21 AMPezey drove there with no money and didn't even know the crew he went with. The guy lives to surf and Mexisurf's gentle reminder was plenty.
And he posted his name.
What's yours crazy gringo?
Posted by: tom at April 28, 2004 11:23 AM
Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 11:30 AMNorthwest Wind; i hate you.
Kaiser; that tracks shot? A++
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 11:34 AMloon, i think you're right. thought shelter at first, but yeah, that's from the scene in sept. sessions.
any gringo claiming anything in mainland mex needs a slap upside the head. if you wanna go local, repatriate. otherwise, you're a guest: behave like one.
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 11:38 AM--
alright...everyone play nice now.
it's off shore and sunny in santa cruz with 6 footers. i gotta leave you and get some more low tide barrels.
toddy hawaii went in the hole 3 times on one wave yesterday (came out 2x) and then was decapitated.
i got mine "dry" and it wasn't for lack of beers...
Posted by: tom at April 28, 2004 11:46 AMTom, re: beers I just moved into a place not far from Sloat, upon arrival apartment was utterly barren save for 7 mysto beers in the fridge. [ the perp drank one] Surely they are yours. Perhaps rig slingshot, return via catapulting them over the Great Highway into the lineup
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 28, 2004 11:52 AMA couple of shots from o-dark-thirty yesterday at a secret spot the locals call "Sur Del Zoo."
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Posted by: Bruce at April 28, 2004 12:01 PMKaiser we like your style, more please.
To the Crazy Gringo, Pez's comment seemed more directed at the absurdity and non-niceness of a gringo claiming ownership of a mx point. All the names he dropped are pretty well known spots. Nobody who travels to surf mainland mx is going to have any trouble finding them.
Posted by: eric at April 28, 2004 12:16 PMEric, When we indicate that waves are good now and name spots we add to the lineup. E mentioned to me that when he used to name spots, he would notice more heads the next day. Leaving spots names out leaves others to explore and figure out when these spots are good. Pez mentioned that came upona Sinaloa point on accident, excellent, but then he goes on to name other spots, let people figure out the spot on their own. Those who know go, other need to do their homework, or get off their asses and explore. I've been travel surfing for 20 years, well before the internet surf media, been skunked and scored, but, I'm not going to make it easy for the rest of the world to know when spota are good and what the names are.
Posted by: mexisurf at April 28, 2004 12:29 PMOh yeah, This site gets a lot of traffic. I mentioned to E when My photos are up, I get about 1000 visitors to my site from this site a day. That's a lot, I only get about 400-500 from surfline when they mention me.... So when you mention names expect here to be eager ears
Posted by: mexisurf at April 28, 2004 12:33 PMlunch nibblets...
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 12:34 PMBruce. I am greatly peeved you posted my image on this website. I was quietly and secretly snarling {locals-only style} at the 3 other guys within a 1/4 mile of me yesterday morning whilst I efficiently perfected my top turn. I know, I know, I have to get my front foot on the center of the board, but other wise pretty good form. Black wetsuit, white board, ripping goofy-foot, uh what? Oh that isn't me...as you were.
Posted by: searoom at April 28, 2004 12:36 PMTo support Mexisurf's point, this site does get a lot of traffic and a lot of eyeballs to it, whether local (bay area) or not. I have been out surfing with E (and even w/o), given a report about waves here or there and the crowds increase SIGNIFICANTLY the next time out. It does happen. We all just need to respect what we talk about. Same as the "self-sensorship" I mentioned in posted for E while he is gone.
Call it a rule, call it common courtesy, or whatever you want.
This debate comes and goes here about every month or 2. Regulate your self, kindly point out when others step slightly over the line.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 12:41 PMI vote: Thicker than Water.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 28, 2004 12:44 PMTom, the tide is getting high, however not on your beer.
Let me get this straight, we have gringo tranny insta locs in other countries? Sheeeeiiiiitttt, I better go buy my slice. Any suggestions?
Just because spots are "pretty" well known- please error on the side of not making spots "really" well known-
Every post on the internet multiplies itself with people in the water
After this past strech I think we can all agree a few too many kooks out there that don't have etiquitte, respect, proper attitude, or even know the beach where they should be learning
Be vocal out there and don't hesitate to yell at these people (out of the water)!
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 12:45 PMKaiser – you’re doing a great job here, much appreciated.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 28, 2004 12:49 PMParallels between now and the Viet Nam era? Oh yeah, probably – what I’m struck with mostly is my profound sadness that I am once again faced with the same anger, frustration and shame I had as a teenager towards my government’s blind aggression in Southeast Asia.
When we went into Afghanistan after the attacks on September 11, 2001 I had mixed feelings. The pacifist part of me hoped that there was another, better way to respond. However, another part of me realized that it was probably the right move. MINDFUL action is required when one is attacked.
Going into Iraq is a completely different deal. No credible linkage between Iraq and Al-Qaeda has been shown. No WMDs have been found. If these ever were the real reasons we have gone into Iraq, we were mistaken and WAY too quick to move into this bloody and costly conflict. We have NOT gone into Iraq mindfully. If there were other reasons we went into Iraq – oil, the Bush’s personal vendetta, a smokescreen to divert voters from disturbing domestic issues – then we have been lied to and our troops (not to mention thousands of Iraqis) have been asked to serve and die for that lie.
The biggest difference between now and the Viet Nam conflict is that there is no draft. The men and women currently fighting in Iraq all made a personal, conscious decision to join the military. Right, or wrong it was THEIR choice to serve in that way. Make NO mistake, if this conflict in Iraq goes on long enough, there WILL be a draft. At that point, young men (and maybe even young women) will be FORCED to serve in the military whether they like it or not. When the draft is instituted and Selective Service starts snatching people out of their lives and sending them to fight and die, a lot of people will see this thing VERY differently. Some of you young guys (and maybe young gals), who have NO WISH WHATSOEVER TO BE IN THIS WAR, will come home dead. Some of you will come home disabled. Some of you will come home crazy from the shit you saw and did. Some of you will never come home at all.
I am so, so sorry that we let this happen again. We should have done better by you kids and NEVER let the U.S.A. get dragged into this kind of bullshit a second time around. I’m sorry.
Here's a follow-up for all the internet eyes out there, let me be more clear.
OB is not for beginners,intermediates or kooks!
Regulate yourselves (stay out of the water)
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 12:51 PMor be regulated...
Jimmie, good take. As I was not born at the time, it is good to see the perspective of those that were around to witness and live through other conflicts in US history. It would be a really strange atmosphere in our country today should a draft be instituted and we begin shipping kids out to Iraq against their will. Must have been a pretty stressful time for those under 26 back in the Vietnam days.
Puts all this "surf naming" bs in perspective along with everything else.
Speaking of which, I gotta run to get some Super 8 footage developed so I can expose some breaks to the masses and do my part in bring the surfing empire to its knees......
Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 01:11 PMLet's be consistent here. If you're not gonna mention spots then you should also tell Alfaro and Urban Framer Dude to take down their cams. And I don't want to see any of you using your cell phones to let your bud know the scoop. You know who you are. I'm watching and taking notes.
Posted by: kdalle at April 28, 2004 01:16 PM3to5setsof7 I believe your correct - you're correct that picture is from Thicker than Water. In fact, that's the town my mom's from. Water is so cold, there, makes OB seem like NShore.
Posted by: d looose at April 28, 2004 01:22 PMbeginners, if you wnat to know good places to surf buy this book
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Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 01:28 PMHello were talking about mainland Mexico not which street has the best sand bar right now. And for that matter, the 3 or 4 of the most notorious spots in mainland mx. Who's planning a trip now based on Pez's favorable report? He's probably the only one of all of you who could be hurt by his name dropping anyway. Is the new rule never name a spot, ever?
Posted by: eric at April 28, 2004 01:32 PMand read this
(i dont know if this will work)
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 01:33 PMit didnt, heres a link:
http://www.nesurf.com/Articles/Etiquette/etiquette.html
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 01:34 PMAll you beginners out there, here's some important info so listen up: Rincon (its in Santa Barbara) has some good damn waves. Doesn't work to well on a south tho, so better try it in the fall or winter.
Posted by: eric at April 28, 2004 01:35 PM"The real lineup"
I'm so mad at this whole movie thing.
Balboa movie theater is MY secret spot & now it's been publicised by corporate fucks who just happen to sell surf gear.
Well, the gauntlet is down & I'm not above cutting people off in the popcorn line, cussing people out of their recling seat "lineup", "schooling" kooks & even slashing jack mccoy's tyres ala those oregon locals.
Back in the day we earned our right to go to the prime seats in the movie theater by sitting in the neck breakers & eating popcorn dust, then if there weren't too many of the old crew there, we'd cautiously sidle up to the nose bleeds & barely survive on left-over soda slush. Then, maybe after years, when the established crew knew our faces, head to the prime mid-theater seating section (motherlode) but never if there were more than 6 guys out...
But now guys show up "en masse" in their fucking helmets & webbed gloves, head straight for the point, call their buddies on a cell & pay no respect.
& for what the fun of the experience? give me a break.
It makes me want to shake my head, say "fuck the niceness" & paddle the other way.
Stay away from my spot dammit.
ps.
You'll know me because I like to go to see movies in a leopard speedo & I carry a big can of whoppass at all times...
CAm
Posted by: cam at April 28, 2004 01:38 PMand furthermore!
"img src="http://us.ent4.yimg.com/movies.yahoo.com/images/hv/photo/tv_pix/nbc/saturday_night_live_episode_photos/eddie_murphy/snl.jpg">
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 01:45 PMI always take my cell phone to the beach. But that's OK cuz I don't have any friends.
Posted by: Dennis at April 28, 2004 01:48 PMson of a.
AND FURTHERMORE!
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Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 01:48 PMkdalle,
wished I'd seen you at shizzizzle this morning to take part in the fun. Nothing like our friend northwest wind to handle the crowd regulation. Still some fun ones out there but ya had to earn them. Nice to meet you Chris, keep up the niceness.
Posted by: sf at April 28, 2004 01:53 PMregulator, i think your bro whos letting you use his computer and sleep on his couch should be home any minute. you should get your porn time in and call it a day.
Posted by: high pressure at April 28, 2004 01:56 PMI regret starting this whole thing. But, I like to name and continue naming spots that are way too publicized, Tavarua, Namotu, Pipe, Puerto, Rincon, Steamers, Bagel and Eric's local spot......
Posted by: mexisurf at April 28, 2004 01:59 PMsmegulator: regulate your own digestive tract, it seems to be leaking out the wrong end again.
Posted by: gary coleman at April 28, 2004 02:06 PMMy 2 cents about naming spots here....
A cell phone is worse.
If you ever complain about a crowd, you better not use a cell phone to call up your friends to inform them of the good surf.
Posted by: Mr Doof at April 28, 2004 02:09 PMApologies in advance if anyone is offended, but I gotta throw something in here. With all the good waves we’ve been seeing in the general vicinity lately, I’ve noticed a couple of things on this site over the last few days that have bothered me. The first: citing specific locations in the descriptions of surf sessions (down to street names and which end of “the parking lot”). The second (and this REALLY bugs me): folks asking for shout-outs on conditions at various locations so they can decide where to head for their lunch break, or after work surf. This right on par with making/receiving cell phone calls to clue your buds on the waves.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 28, 2004 02:14 PMThe first issue has come up for discussion a few times in the year and ˝ that I have been lurking and posting here. My view - shared by many here, I believe – is that specific information regarding Pedro (Lindamar) is o.k. – that place is almost always a zoo, regardless of conditions. But identifying specific locations at Ocean Beach (which avenue, VFW, Kelly’s, etc.) and other spots to the north, or south should be avoided – it can tend to concentrate too many surfers at the identified spots. Hence, my cryptic references to “someplace west of The Great Highway,” or “someplace (north/south) of the Mason-Dixon Line.”
The second issue, asking for specific, up to the minute, eye-witness information from folks here regarding a particular spot is … well, I’m not sure WHAT it is – but it REALLY bothers me. Come on, if you can’t make a decision based on all the info that’s already out there, just get in the car and check it out for yourself!
Again, I mean no offense to anyone. I just think we need to be a little more mindful in our posts on those extremely RARE occasions when the surf is really good around here.
ok ok, maybe im a bit reactive, i apoligize. but gumbys funny right?
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 02:17 PMIf you travel, you can find good, uncrowded waves (and this includes California). If you post it, you can travel and find good, crowded waves. Get the correlation? Oh, and apparently not everyone can read, so what does it matter if it's in a book?
Anyone who wants to see the effects of naming names, parking lots, hell phones, the hypernet, surf rentals, helmets, gloves and other signs of progress, please come visit SC and leave your stoke at home.
End of rant.
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Posted by: dano at April 28, 2004 02:21 PMjimmie, I dig your points, in fact I generally enjoy all your posts...I'm dragging my heels a bit though as sharkbait's reports are often my favorite reads. honestly, I'd hate to have them end or even become abreviated. what's your take? having mexisurf point out the volume of traffic here is really eye-opening...guess I'd thought of the site as being much more low-key, a much smaller group of folks generally sharing stoke and info.
Posted by: ben at April 28, 2004 02:27 PMbeing mindful unfortunately has such breadth of scope for different folks, but it sounds like a good start.
There does need to be some kind of filtering mechanism. How many times have you been at (insert former secret spot here) and had someone in over thier head get in the way or worse, bail the board? It used to be you had to earn the right to surf waves of consequence. You needed diverse skills that only time in the water could teach. There was no OTHER WAY. It's different times and I love how my technology enables. BUT I miss the OLD WAY as it taught a lot more mutual respect. Something the water seems to lack these days. It brought a sense of order and calm in the lineup. Surfing is beautiful and amazing it's easy to understand the attraction. However if your not a "black diamond" please stay on the "blue and green runs". thankyouverymuch.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 28, 2004 02:27 PMAs long as you don't mention my street, I am fine with vague indicators. I really hate "somewhere west of the Great Highway". Sorry, Jimmie.
The only one who wants to read the "I surfed somewhere and it was great!" posts are people who also surfed there that day or have some other time and also caught it good. So you have to give at least a clue as to where it is or who cares.
'North end', 'South end', 'The middle' are all fine in my book.
Cell phones are nasty.
As to the 'people in over their heads' discussion, who here has ever taught someone else to surf or encouraged their interest? If you raise your hand, you have yourself to blame.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 28, 2004 02:44 PMFor those that have been here a while, this issue has been run over and over like a dead piece of roadkill on the interstate.
The only way this works efficiently is by the following: SELF REGULATION!!!!
That is the 3rd time today I have said that. We all make comments some times that over step the invisible boundry. And of course this here report is a cause of some crowded surf just the same as a surf cam or Wise's surf report. So is Blakestah's report in a way. However, if these tools merely provide you and your posse with the knowledge to make YOUR OWN decisions, then it these resources are not problems nor should they contribute DIRECTLY to lineup size.
Bottomline: Its warm out, its sunny, surfing is always more exposed during this time of the year. Throughout summer, we surfers, are going to have to deal with beginners, kooks, assholes, locals, crusty old fuckers, longboarders, shortboarders, spongers (sorry bbr, gotta include ya), and all the rest. OB SELF-REGULATES. Even more, NorCal SELF-REGULATES. SC doesn't, ask Dano.
Chill out everyone! Its April/May and the sun is out. And Bagel, that was funny!
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 02:50 PM(now, onto the pics........)
#3 is for me. I liked the Gumby pic too....
Posted by: mexisurf at April 28, 2004 02:55 PMso that's what a backside rail grab looks like ....thanks kaiser
Posted by: old man at April 28, 2004 02:57 PMuhm, yeah, I've helped folks out...friends, strangers. but I think that kept them out of trouble, out of bad situations, no? lousy instruction is a problem, not good help and encouragement.
Population growth is a problem. Crowded breaks are a byproduct. I believe G. Bush #1 once said, "population growth in itself is a neutral phenomenon." 'regulating' ain't gonna help a thing, the issue is cultural and a lot larger than our 'crap, there were too many people out in the ocean with me today while I played' complaints (not that I don't feel the same thorns, but it sometimes seems odd to be banging our haeds against the wrong walls).
Posted by: ben at April 28, 2004 02:57 PMben - I dig sharkbait's stuff too - isn't she usually pretty cryptic? I don't recall lots of street names in her posts - but then, my recall is not always the best.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 28, 2004 02:59 PMFriend #1 - no need to apologize - "somewhere west of the Great Highway" sounds a bit cute and precious to me sometimes too. But I'll keep on using it until I can think of something better. I'm open to suggestions ...
I have a friend with whom I stopped surfing because of his cellphone habit. He's still my friend and I'd help him move a piano and/or lend him money. I just can't go to the beach with him anymore.
We don't have it that bad!
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 03:01 PMI'll take #5 then. Bagel, there going fast, get in there.....
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 03:05 PMin a particularly sharp moment of pining for SB
Posted by: ben at April 28, 2004 03:07 PMhomelessness and simplicity I canceled my cell
phone a few weeks ago. ...
thought I never used the thing anyway, but it has been, ah, slightly challenging. crap
He said " Crusty old fuckers ".....haha
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 03:07 PMcam, i think i speak for the group when i say: we look forward to the leopardprint.
i would've been happy to settle for popcorn dust, too, but i read about that movie on the internet and felt immediately entitled. :)
kaiser, man, you had me right up until the end...! you're still doing a great job of running this show though.
Posted by: friendly at April 28, 2004 03:22 PMjimmie - i agree with point #2. mea culpa, i posted a q yesterday re: how far i would need to drive and i thought that there might be leeway in doing so since i was being somewhat indirect and asking about south-facing spots (i.e. not ob, and this is an ob-centric blog). but you're right, i shouldn't even open the door.
on point #1, agree with other posters who suggested that north/middle/south is ok for ob since those areas all have unique features and tend to draw accordingly. the suggestion to wait a few days to post (especially anything more specific) or just waiting until a swell passes, or sandbars shift, also seems worth heeding.
on a related note -- ss: i love your work - very crafty yet carefully self-regulated - hope you keep it up!
Posted by: loon at April 28, 2004 03:26 PMI feel compelled to point out that we were ALL kooks at one time. Sometimes we still are in spite of the years of experience. Come on, we all have are kook days or kook waves. I know I do. And we have ALL put ourselves in situations that were "over our heads" at one point or another. If you haven't you're not pushing yourself very hard. It's just a friggin unfortunate fact that when it's sunny and warm you are going to have more people at the beach, in the water, in your way...etc., etc...deal.
Surf alone and don't make the bro call are good rules to live by i think.
Posted by: jdz at April 28, 2004 03:27 PMdid the santa cruz thing yesterday. i must have rolled up just after that car flew off the cliff at devil's slide, cuz they wouldn't even let me drive through and i had to backtrack and take the 280 and cut over to HMB. bummed on that, but i found some sick ones at an SC wedge with a bit of an aggro vibe. the east side of SC was pretty macking, as were a few reefs north of SC. took today off like everyone else, back in action tomorrow.
various photos of wedge yesterday:
Posted by: bbr at April 28, 2004 03:31 PMhttp://www.optionmag.com/gallery/data/507/636wedge4-med.jpg
http://www.optionmag.com/gallery/data/507/236W_A04_DK.jpg
http://www.optionmag.com/gallery/data/507/236W_A04_MINIFREIGHT-med.jpg
http://www.optionmag.com/gallery/data/507/236W_A04_BB_FLY_-med.jpg
Dibs on #2...
I'm excessively paranoid about talking on the cell phone at the beach, even when it has nothing to do with surf. I got a call from my mom on my cell the other while I was suiting up and noticed a couple guys kinda giving me the stink-eye. Shit, they thought I was making the bro-call!!
Posted by: mwsf at April 28, 2004 03:34 PMI've accepted that increasing crowds are inevitable. Wetsuits are getting better. Exposure is increasing. Surfcams are everywhere.
But I hold fast that behavior that directs surfers to a break is wrong. I know of many people who stay at home/work and watch the Surfpulse cam. When it looks good, they head straight to Ortega/Noriega. I think the Surfpulse cam is just wrong.
I feel similarly when someone posts a surf location at OB more specific than a 4-5 block stretch ie: "Pacheco" and not "the middle" or even "somewhere at the beach".
This site is a great place where people mostly share positive stoke about surfing. We don't need or want regulators or aggroville behavior. Share some stoke, and get some surf, and let others find their way to the break.
Also, cell phones allow one person to communicate with one other. This site allows one person to communicate with hundreds of others each day. And many of them have cell phones. The internet is a bullhorn unrivaled by the cell phone. Also, this site is archived and searchable. What you say here becomes a permanent part of the record.
So, if you want crowds to descend on your favorite breaks, mention that you had an awesome time there on this site. Like me, I totally had a great time the last time I surfed El Granada Jetty - that place rules!
Posted by: blakestah at April 28, 2004 03:37 PMdoh! i wanted #2 guess ill go with #1 than.
and speaking of regulating, nice one kaiser.
cam gets funniest post award.
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 03:45 PMi've always wondered exactly which street the surfpulse cam was pointed at... thanks again for the helpful info, blakestah!
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 03:47 PMblakestah, i get way more sessions with info from your site than info from the surfpulse cam. the cam can be very deceiving, but your site (and the SF bay wind site) are usually spot on. just pointing this out, not trying to be a dick or anything.
Posted by: bbr at April 28, 2004 04:01 PMAre there really any secret spots here. Its San Francisco.
A beginner can rarely stay at the same peak at OB for more than 10 minutes then the current takes them away along with their dangerous longboard, they get hammered and catch nothing and usually give up wondering how anyone can drop in on a dumping beast.
I cant even stay at the same peak for more than an hour at a time and I am in pretty good shape. Besides most people know that when you post about the conditions being good, in an hour or two that same spot usually deteriorates to shit. Nothing here is very consistant.
thats my rant. Oh I forgot BUSH IS A SHITHEAD!!!!!!
Posted by: phil at April 28, 2004 04:01 PMnow there is something we all can agree on: BUSH IS A SHITHEAD!!!!
Posted by: jdz at April 28, 2004 04:04 PMNice one phil.... Good rant bro!
Posted by: sf at April 28, 2004 04:04 PMOh snizzle........ The fun just never ends.......
North Pacific
On Thursday (4/29) high pressure off British Columbia is to retreat and that little low north of Hawaii is forecast to start deepening to 985 mbs with winds of 35 kts developing in it's south quadrant aimed well at California. 40-45 kts winds expected there on Friday (4/30) as the low drops to 975 mbs and starts tracking east. Seas forecast to 31 ft over a tiny area positioned 600 nmiles west of buoy 46006. The low is forecast to continue circulating in a stationary pattern in the Gulf of Alaska with varying degrees of 35 kt winds and 15-18 ft seas slowly decaying through the weekend but aimed reasonably well at the coast. Some northwest swell generation potential possible for California, if this develops as projected. Hawaii is also forecast to get some of this energy from early in the gales life from a very north angle.
South Pacific
In sync with the North Pacific's projected flare-up, the far South Pacific is to start stirring again too. A smaller weekend storm is to develop due south of it's North Pacific brother (at 145W) with seas in the 34-37 ft range modeled and fetch aimed reasonably well to the north towards California and South America. Hawaii is likely to be too far west to get much of this one though. Will monitor.
Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 04:14 PMIt is true that this site increases the numbers in the water. I am one of them.
I spend 95% of my surf time in SC. I used to only go up to OB when SC was Lake Pacific. Because of the stoke and current conditions description I probably head up to OB ten times a year. Without this site, you wouldn't see me.
I shudder when I hear the names (and even the general vicinity) of the breaks I normally surf because I know that will bring folks to them, just as it has brought me to OB. What really scares me is the traffic count that mexisurf posted. I had thought this site was some sort of underground secret. Scary!
I think not naming names and certainly not describing all the ecentricities of how and when particular sites and areas are good is the way to go. Keep up the good work Kaiser (and E).
Posted by: Surfing Sam at April 28, 2004 04:15 PMI love the pics. Waves and girls!!!!
Yeah there would be no need to regulate if there was no such things as cell phones, surf cams/ reports, board ditchers, internet sites etc.
But there are... it seems on this site people want a "SF surf culture"... I don't think so
Yes, Lets point out the locations of all the surfcams so we can throw rocks at them!
Do you have a surfcam hanging out from your balcony- let this be a warning to you!!
At least OB regulates itself when it gets big. The reality is OB will kick your ass, break your board and body. People get sucked out to sea and die. Let not forget the hungry great whites! With all the whale/seal carcasses buried there are more sitings each year. And now there are some really pissed off angry locals at what is happening. Stay away!
For those of you who really have diarrehea of the mouth how about "Somewhere west of North America"
We can still take back our beach-
Posted by: regulator at April 28, 2004 04:15 PMi'm sure everyone agrees that many breaks nowadays are WAY too crowded. I tend to blame the recent media (tv, movies, etc.) explosion of the surfer lifestyle. but trends always come and go...and years from now only the dedicated will remain.
Posted by: rza at April 28, 2004 04:26 PMif you want to really talk about breaks being exposed, you should see the setups they have in japan. most every break has some dude making reports on it throughout the day and feeding it to every surfer with a cell phone (this is EVERY surfer in japan). of course all the best spots are packed, shoulder to shoulder. literally. parking is the biggest problem there - with most surfers happily forking over $20. if you can't park, you can't surf. and now the cell surf reports include live cams. imagine that happening here one day...
Thanks folks...
Scrupulously professional reportage for pure fun and good surf karma. Except for a few mistakes in the beginning I don't name spots...can see a vast sweep of ob, look up and down, and try to generalize. I've been concerned w/reactions but have never heard any negative comments. Particularly if outer sunet/richmond and long time ob surfers told me to knock it off or modify, I'd absolutely respect their wishes. I see sharing the ocean beach view as a community resource and something people would pipe up about if they wanted it changed or nixed. Of course it might not hurt that everyone knows my surfing is dubious and I'll paddle into any kind of crap. It's all surfable to me! Happy hunting and Cheers,
ps yes ob is blasted to bits
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 28, 2004 04:28 PMcheck out me and my girlfriend regulating OB
Posted by: regulator at April 28, 2004 04:29 PMBLAKESTAH! GOOD GOD MAN, now the three people who DIDN'T know where the Surfpulse cam was pointed - including, apparently, April - are now, officially CLUED! ;)
Posted by: Jimmie at April 28, 2004 04:35 PMI like Mark, he's a good guy and a more than solid surfer. I've expressed to him my feeling that it's time for the cam to go, since the word is out on it's location. He disagrees. Maybe we should start another petition. Or better yet - have an INTERVENTION!
Here's a thought:
Let's save gas and help save the environment by sharing honest updates on which spots are NOT good and therefore NOT worth driving to.
If you surf/check someplace and it's good, keep it to yourself. But if you see an area and it SUCKS -- let others know and save them the drive. And no need to say it was firing before and now it's blown out -- simply a current update.
examples:
"ocean beach is now whitecapping"
"drove to pacifica area and it was dead flat."
I don't see a downside to this, as it's both helping provide info and keeping crowds low.
Posted by: thinker at April 28, 2004 04:38 PMlook at all the posts...81...holyshit....this place
is teeming with folks who have been surfing too
much and are now in the dt's. i know, i am as well.
in fact i finished my meeting at noon and went to
pacifica just to see if there were any shoulders to be
had (ob ALL of it was toast).
there were a few as the wind (piss off northwest wind guy!)
got back up to springtime speed....also some real
stoke from some aussie sounding dude coming out
of the water—"have fun out there." (or something to that
effect. i was a bit shocked to catch it clearly.)
blake...i agree with you completely. this is a forum for
those of us that love to surf and are amped to share talk
story and f*** with one another. when we have met in person
you were real; "where did you surf today you asked and was it FUN? that is key.
surfing is FUN not a fucking war
or even a competition except with MAYBE
your self.
you want a war
join the army...you wanna have fun....come surf....
and remember...
be nice and PLAY FAIR.
have a great day and whoever sees this NWWIND dude
send him back where he came...hear that high pressure????
one more thing...i was real busy the other day but someone
asked about the outer banks....
OUTER BANKS info....?
i lived there a decade ago.
there are breaks everywhere and they change constantly.
(think of a stretch of beach like ob multiplied by 20 or 30
times). the bridge to pea island/ hatteras is still out from
the new inlet south. so you cannot get all the way to the
lighthouse or avon/ buxton area except on a ferry.
that is supposed to open in a month or so.
anyhow each town has breaks....kitty hawk, kill devil hills
and nags head. all have some sand bars that are kicking.
where they are this year...i have no clue. try looking at
the piers first and then go to a few of the surfshops.
and ask nicely. and beware the hordes from virginia beach.
whalebone or vitamin sea (if that is still there) or if you
go to rodanthe (south of nags head) look for the rodanthe
surf shop...randy owns it i think and he is super mellow.
he give you tips but no clear names. enjoy the search.
that is beautiful country. if you go in august (?) then do not hold your breath and make sure your hotel or rental has A/C. it will be hot and humid. mosquitos that can carry away small kids too.
fuck technology......
Posted by: at April 28, 2004 04:55 PMHey regulator you're right on man.
Surf culture is pretty lame. Something that should be left behind in high school.
Just get your fix on and shut up already. You're only standing up on yer stupid board for something like 3 minutes a year. Meanwhile people in this world are starving, kids are retarded, there is cancer, etc. So shut up already.
Surf trips to Nigga-agua? I'm sure the locals really love seeing you tote your $425 Wise designer boards around. Meanwhile, little Manuel spends the day trying to sell chicklets for a friggin peso.
Surf culture is lame, but this site is decent reading.
Posted by: loco gringo at April 28, 2004 04:55 PMI have to chime in on people equating calling a friend on your cellphone with naming surf spots on the internet. I mean come on, we all have friends who we surf with all the time, even if that's just a single bud. We've all had sessions where we're trying to get that person to come surf and he says "call me from there and maybe I'll join you if its good". It's a one-on-one thing, nothing that's going to get out there too wide. And the person you're calling is probably a regular at the spot too. It's not like we're calling strangers and educating them about surfing in the Bay Area.
It strikes me as being literally about 1/1000 the impact of, say, the Wise telephone surf report, the only difference as I see it being that cell phones are new and therefore threatening and surf shop phone reports have been around a long time.
And I'm hoping SS Sharkbait doesn't take all these railings against surf updates too hard. I love her posts, I'd love them even if I didn't surf, fantastic descriptions absolutely every time.
And christ, do people really think posting a few interesting observations draws more poeple in that the surfpulse cam? That thing is like looking out the window it's so clear.
Anyway, just a couple of random thoughts swirling around that I had to get out.
Posted by: wrybread at April 28, 2004 05:03 PMA story about regulation.
once upon a time i lived on a tropical island. after a month of living in paradise, the surf got BIGGER then it had been. the local crew had gotten used to seeing me in the line-up, no problems. but on this day bigger then any before, the local reef was Epic. Gerry Lopez paddled up to me: "3to5 this is the biggest day so far this winter, did you surf waves this size back home?" "Yes I have sir." "I don't want to get hit by your board, your going to have to bail it on the sets, you know what to do?" "yes sir". "Ok den brah be alert and mele kalikimaka." "merry christmas to you Gerry." We then took a set on the head. I held my breath and poppped up praying that my board did not tangle with his. Thankfully no. We acknowledged the pummeling and paddled to the peak. He then said, "I trust you to know your limits, no one wants anybody to get hurt." That morning watching Gerry playfully rip in conditions that stretched my comfort was awesome, inspiring, life changing. I got a few bombs that day (it was xmas after all) and forever have remembered his lesson.
Maybe we should take responsibility and regulate with niceness those who don't self reg? Be real.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 28, 2004 05:06 PMbagel - posting of gumby's real name and photos is NOT appropriate!! please be more secretive, how about "my green clay based friend", altho even that may be obvious. shit, we're fucked, i refuse to talk anymore for fear of spoiling someone's something somewhere.
Posted by: j at April 28, 2004 05:22 PMHere's one thing that hasn't been mentioned in regards to this thread.
Newsflash: SURFING IS REALLY FUCKING POPULAR.
Plus we live in the bay area (slightly populated). Thought this should be an important variable.
When I got here in '89 there were mostly guys charging the Kelly's area and down at Sloat. There just weren't that many people surfing. It really started to pick up noticably around '95, then exploded around '98.
It's sort of analogous to saying,....man why are there so many people parked at the Ballpark on game nights. Simple, a lot of people like to do this stuff, especially when it's nice out (head high, glassy with ample lulls between sets). Everything clears up nicely when it's DOH with closer period.
Posted by: Jack at April 28, 2004 05:24 PMwrybread - i was just giving you my point of view, not making a general statement. i don't look at the cam much, but i read blakestah's report and this site no matter what. i check the SF wind site like every hour. this site gets me out more than the cam because i absolutely HATE hearing how i missed it in the morning if i was too lazy to get up. to me, that's much more incentive than seeing a couple good waves on the cam.
Posted by: bbr at April 28, 2004 05:25 PMGreat story, 3to5, great story...
Posted by: mwsf at April 28, 2004 05:26 PMIt's less crowded now than it was a couple years ago. Some of you folks complain too much. This street, that street. It's crap. We "all" get in the car and look for the best breaks. My home break is anywhere in SF. I don't mind sharing. Just don't be a pig. And don't even think about telling me I don't belong at a break. Nobody ever has anyway-anywhere...
Who lives in the mid aves and doesn't surf Kelly's? Guess what, for some folks, that the end of their block. Get over it and get back to niceness. I wear a helmet cuz I head-butt.
Posted by: Dennis at April 28, 2004 05:27 PMbest way to stop overcrowding: stop having sex for crying out loud!! less sex = less people on the earth = less people in the water.
upsides of crowded water: theoretically, if enough people are in the water the water should heat up from their bodies giving off heat! sweeet, at this rate we'll be trunking it in 2002. to expedite the process don't forget to pee while you're out there.
Posted by: j at April 28, 2004 05:27 PMuhhh 2020, not 2002....
Posted by: j at April 28, 2004 05:29 PMPhew, just finished reading all the posts today. As always a fantastic read.
One more swirling thought: Mexisurf's logs showing 1000 hits a day on pics he posts probably aren't unique hits, they're probably largely from people working office jobs all day and hitting the site over and over to read the latest comments. On my office days I'm probably 15 of those hits, minimum.
Correct me if I'm wrong on that Mexisurf?
Posted by: wrybread at April 28, 2004 05:32 PMI liked surfing in Northern California in the 80's. After Mavericks was exposed around 1990 it all turned to shit. Now we have this surf fever thing going on. This drives the guys who should be out there to quit and move inland.
I, myself, gave it up for a couple years and almost dragged my Waimea legend buddy into a life of road biking in the hills.
Waimea legend "why you quit da kine brah?" me "it's always 2 foot and 1000 people out, I get the same rush from riding my bike to PCC'. WL 'where you get da bike cuz?'
Posted by: loco gringo at April 28, 2004 05:33 PMFirst time ever over 100 comments!!!! Let us celebrate (sorry friendly, had to!)
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Posted by: Kaiser at April 28, 2004 05:35 PMDennis, the point was not that anyone should be barred banned or otherwise intimidated from surfing someplace. The point was that there is no reason to point a break out to them. Let each person drive the beach and surf where their eyes tell them to.
And, especially, let the stoke sharing on this site go on. I surfed more from reading this site - mainly - the days I had considered marginal, e would go out anyway, and walk away with a fistful of stoke. And I thought, dern it, if e can get stoked on such a day, why can't I ? And each day I would look for the joys - being in the uncrowded ocean, grabbing a few waves while the sun comes up, a nervous seal doing a drive-by, pelicans dive bombing, a nice drop and bottom turn...good times.
Good surfing to all. Water temp has already dropped to 53, and it looks like it is still going. Can you say upwelling?
Posted by: blakestah at April 28, 2004 05:36 PMhey fakestah,
yeah whatever about EG and our breaks. just keep staying the hell away and we'll be better off without you and your frat boy SF crew. if i have to hear another, "niceness, dude" or "good on ya" i think i'm going to f'in vomit. you SF boys are as trendy as the come.
see ya in the line-up
Posted by: EP Pimp at April 28, 2004 05:48 PMegp
The truth is, I wear a helmet cuz I can't surf for shit anymore any I figure I'm gonna knock myself out one of these days. I never really head-butted anybody.
Posted by: Dennis at April 28, 2004 05:59 PMGreat story 3to5. Any Wrybread, those are unique visitors. I average 100-200 unique visitors a day, so it is asignificant increase.
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Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 06:09 PMgod dammit...that would have been way funnier if my post was right after 3to5's post about lopez. foiled again.
ps. cool story 3-5
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 06:14 PMit still actually might not have been that funny.
Posted by: bagel at April 28, 2004 06:21 PMoi! yipes! c'mon people, settle down.
3to5, that story was sweet. GL is the man! people who actually ARE the shit rarely treat other people like it.
gumby-bagel and cam for funniest posts of the day. j gets an honorable mention for attempting to turn the tide, twice. bbr gets the HolyShit! award with those pics. rock on...
and no worries, kaiser...i couldn't see her anyway, whatever she wasn't wearing. that's gotta be driving some hombres nuts, huh? ;)
Posted by: friendly at April 28, 2004 06:21 PMMe and the frat boys are planning a raid - El Granada Jetty or bust! It ain't called surfers beach for nothing. We're loading the bics and foamtops and zinka in the car right now so we will be prepared for the morning. After we ride all your waves we plan a second raid for some three friends mex.
See you there, Pimp!
Posted by: blakestah at April 28, 2004 06:53 PMI'M NUMBER 3!!
Posted by: j at April 28, 2004 06:58 PMI'M NUMBER 3!!!
Would it be wrong at this point to mention that El Granada was the best I've ever seen it yesterday?
(I mean El Gran*da).
Posted by: wrybread at April 28, 2004 06:59 PMfakestah,
bring your rotator fins, dude!
yes, EG was firing yesterday and there was some serious talent out there. Saw some DOH+ sets roll through. But, it's all gone now...gulp, burp..
pimp it
Posted by: EG Pimp at April 28, 2004 07:03 PMegp
well crap, if the post keeps going like this then we might as well just name and give directions to every norcal surf spot, afterall, everyone will be glued to their computers anyways ;) i just normally read, dont post, but i wanted to make it 111. But if i could, because this is prob the only time im going to post, people, please, just have fun. Surfing is for fun, and hey...just be happy. I mean, i hate a lineup full of kooks clad in brand new oneill suits and brand new al mer's as much as the next guy, but sometimes you just gotta look at things differently, sometimes slalom courses are fun, right???
Posted by: ozy at April 28, 2004 07:10 PMCan't we all just get along?
Posted by: Rodney King at April 28, 2004 07:30 PMMaybe e could rig up a name randomizer for the comments section so if someone types a break name that's on the master list of confidential spots, it automatically gets changed into "Pipe" "Chopes" or "J-Bay" in the post
Posted by: eric at April 28, 2004 07:31 PM
Posted by: bootsy at April 28, 2004 07:45 PMThis is what this site is about- at least to me.
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Posted by: Bruce at April 28, 2004 07:51 PM119...new world record
Posted by: jdz at April 28, 2004 09:11 PMThis weekend, I surfed in such incredibly nice spring time waves bathed in summer sun and warm weather. What made it so interesting is that I never once saw or heard any bad vibes in the water-and I really noticed it each day out. Not directed at you bvb. I mean there was no snaking going on or drop-ins. There were plenty of peeps in the water too. I think this site and others that stress respect (bill of lefts and rights) helps to build better surf community.
Posted by: Dennis at April 28, 2004 10:03 PM....can't....stop.....posting.....
I agree with Dennis, I surfed Sunday through Tuesday at ** and didn't see anything but great vibes. On Sunday I was out almost all by myself, amazing, and I didn't even do any hiking to get there. On Tuesday there were lots of little clusters of people but even my brief time in the clusters I got pretty good vibes. I mean no one was actively seeking out friendly eye contact or anything, but hey its surfing and it's always like that. I thought everyone was chatting it up, even strangers.
But I totally know how a single brush with bad vibes can completely color a session.
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Posted by: at April 28, 2004 11:00 PMAfter a week out of the water slouching in front of my damn computer I surfed my ass off for a couple days. Now my neck is incredibly sore and my opposite shoulder two inches higher than the other, fully spasming and out of allignment. Go easy and maintain proper posture or pay the price.
Posted by: at April 29, 2004 12:02 AMyay im still at work! everybody wake up and go surf for me
Posted by: bagel at April 29, 2004 05:45 AMWork is overrated.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at April 29, 2004 06:58 AMjeez bagel...what you tryin to prove workin so hard??? You got a deadline or sumpin?
Posted by: jdz at April 29, 2004 08:06 AMSomeone get these damned kooks out of the line-up! :-)
Just a reminder of what it was like to catch your first wave. Or is that too niceness a thought? It's Keith, named after a famous rocker who's still alive although no one knows why.
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Posted by: Bruce at April 29, 2004 08:10 AMGreat shot Bruce - Keith is what it's all about. BTW, the reason his namesake isn't dead yet: tranfusions of the blood of young virgins performed at an exclusive Swiss Clinic. ;)
wrybread – I agree, cams probably do more to crowd lineups than cellphones – but every little bit helps. Besides it’s not just the number of people cellphones bring to the lineup, it’s (ah jeeze, am I actually gonna say this out loud) a matter of principle. Sure, I have had friends decline an invitation to go surfing and ask me to call them if it’s good – I told ‘em, “Sorry, not a chance – ya’ snooze, ya’ lose!” I don’t think we should help someone get to the waves who doesn’t want to be there badly enough to make the effort and take a chance for themselves.
Posted by: Jimmie at April 29, 2004 08:25 AMHaving said that, no one has the right to tell anyone that they should not surf at a particular break. The only exceptions would be if a surfer is at a spot that is obviously waaay beyond their current abilities (then they should be gently schooled on where else they might go to develop their skills); or if a surfer is just totally inconsiderate and disrespectful. I don’t mean your run-of-the-mill loudmouth, or occasional snake; I mean the surfer who presents a real danger in the water by consistently burning people, making threats, etc.
a line up full of kooks is the best...... like decoys, keeps others from coming out and i get all the waves i want. any spot you can see from hwy 1 is not secret so get over it.
Posted by: msurfer at April 29, 2004 09:57 AMKAISER FOR PRESIDENT!!!
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