Empty and peaceful
Chirp, chirp. Chirp, chirp. Chirp, chirp. Freakin birds! Who gives them the right to sing at 5:45 in the morning as they watch the beautiful sunrise? Why do they have to call out to their other chirping friends and invite them to sing along? Who gives them the right to....
Ok, ok. Birds are local and they're pretty cool so we can cut them some slack eh? Their chirping in unison thing might be worse then all of us punk-ass OB surfers calling one another from the beach but I found them to be fairly delightful this morning.
The beaches were pretty empty today even though the the winds were blowing pretty hard offshore/sideshore this a.m. A few peeps out in the north end, middle OR south end of the beach giving it a go. I found a little area out in Mom Ocean today to my liking. Got several really fun rides, mostly lefts. 2 waves were really memorable in that I rode them for ever. They just kept going and going and going. Not great shape where you can pull a few cutties or the like but still really good for my liking. Shared the lineup with a few others but volume was really light. I suppose the harsh winds yesterday had a lot to do with it. Its out there, just gotta find 'em.....
Ok, sorry for the late report. I just got out of a 2.5 hour meeting. Fun stuff there. I actually starting writing at 9:00. Just finished at Noon! Solid work!
Good banter out of everyone yesterday. New record of 120 posts! Not bad. Some came in today though.
As usual, here are some pics, enjoy!
Big Louie Style:
This guy is badass...
I think I see Christian down there...
Moody OB. Harsh sun, strong offshores. I love days like this. South spots workin' even though the waves mostly have a northerly angle. Strong wind and some wedgy sets combined for challenging takeoffs and zippy walls. The noew old short board was a good call for me. Definitely some thump on the north end, smaller as you head south and virtually flat at the south spot. Very peaceful with only a few takers. Kind off reminds me more of fall than spring.
Posted by: kdalle at April 29, 2004 12:36 PMI love those bird noises. The past days have been unbelievable - surfing alone or with others. You can always find it. I like to go where there isn't a flock of peeps just to see if I can catch a roller or two. I am still learning about the ocean and how it works - positioning...turning... I learn best when I am alone - trial and error....my goal is to get into the green room cause all I hear is amazing rushes and emotional highs that are similar to the best of life. I already get a total rush on riding a 4 footer can't imagine getting tubed. I was once told longboarders can not get in but I don't believe it... be nice to others and nice things follow. Karma and positive vibes only out in the water. Look out there...beauty. Peace and feel the love
Posted by: girliegirl at April 29, 2004 12:43 PMStoked! Just booked a trip to Kauai for 9 days in the first week of June. Can't wait to see what my feet look like under water.
Posted by: Dennis at April 29, 2004 12:46 PMhomie needs a lighter..
nice one kaiser sose
maybe we can break a record today for least posts..
Posted by: bagel at April 29, 2004 12:48 PMHey girligirl,
Not true about LBs not being in the tube. I have a friend who surfs a 9'6" and he gets them almost everytime we surf together. The shorty helps because you don't have to plan as far ahead, don't have to be as skilled wave in judgement. i.e. what the wave will do in the next few seconds. With the shorty you can see that it is about to throw and get to where you have to be quick.
Dennis,
Yesterday when you said you wore a helmet so you can headbut, that scared me. (I later saw you pulled back on that one.)
I've never been in a fight in the water, but the few times I've been challenged over the last 20+ years my first response is to inform "that I consider fighting in the water a life or death situation and that I will respond accordingly" This is no bluff as I consider fighting in the water a life or death situation.
Keep up the stoke everyone. Positive vibrations!!
Posted by: surfingsam at April 29, 2004 01:14 PMeverybody be happy and nice to each other!
The ocean is for all of us, not just for some crusty few who grew up here!
Teach a friend or two or four! Show them around our beautiful coast. If you see one guy out in the water, paddle out and be nice and smile! Maybe you can find a new buddy to take e with and go to a surf flick together?
Posted by: takethissitedown at April 29, 2004 01:20 PMi usually go for a battle of wits in the water ala "the princess bride"...flea snaked me once at the lane and we had a 10 minute discussion about the battle of waterloo, now i can surf there whenever i want..(not a true story)..ill stop.
Posted by: bagel at April 29, 2004 01:28 PMIt's so good today at the Farallones! Skip work and get on it! Overhead A-frames and perfect. Grab your meat surfboard and paddleout!
Posted by: regulator at April 29, 2004 01:33 PMhttp://news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=519&u=/ap/20040429/ap_on_re_us/diesel_spill_2&printer=1
Shades of Deveroux. sh*t.
Posted by: kdalle at April 29, 2004 01:45 PMThe winds seem to have died down; yahoo weather says 3mph from the east. And from my roost in the SF hills, it does seem pretty still after being windy all day . . .
Anyone been out at [edits self] a nearby large body of hydrogen oxide recently?
Posted by: Klooless Kook at April 29, 2004 01:58 PMInconceivable!
Posted by: jdz at April 29, 2004 02:07 PMit's good all up and down OB right now at 2:00.
Smooth as glass still with light offshores. Small shoulder high minor swell. I'd be on it now but have work.
Posted by: takethissitedown at April 29, 2004 02:09 PMdamn, kdalle, that spill sounds pretty serious. anybody else hear anything about it? one would think that a spill up there would pretty quickly make its way to our shores...
nice to see the site mellowing out a bit after yesterday. frankly, i feel that anyone who gets seriously bent out of shape over crowded waves, cams/reports, ect. just needs to open a newspaper. there is so much really bad shit going on in our world right now, there are much more important things to be angry about!
Posted by: luke at April 29, 2004 02:13 PMDiesel spill in SF Bay of 1 million gallons
Amount of water that goes through the Gate on an average tide change: 500 billion gallons
If it all flushed through at once, it would be 1 part ocean, 0.0002 parts diesel.
It may be bad near the spill site though.
Posted by: blakestah at April 29, 2004 02:28 PMBlakestah, how's the sushi?
Posted by: Kaiser at April 29, 2004 02:30 PMIt sounds like they got on that spill pretty quickly and have it contained. It is unlike a tanker spill in that when they noticed the drop in pressure they could turn off the supply.
Blakestah, 200 ppm is pretty damn dirty as far as water quality goes. Your analysis is back of the envelope though. That distribution would take quite a while to accomplish. We should be glad that it is diesel though and not gasoline or some other lighter fuel.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 29, 2004 03:00 PMBlakestah-your proportions may be correct but the effect is dependent on the characteristics of oil and water...they don't mix. The oil will spread out as a very thin film covering an immense amount of surface area. Having survived the "natural" seepage in Isla Vista all I can say is stock up on Wesson Oil instead of Pert.
BTW, thanks for leaving town.
Posted by: kdalle at April 29, 2004 03:03 PMMy source a the Bay Conservation and Development Commission tells me that the spill is around 336,000 gallons, not 1 million, and not a few hundred. I don't know how contained it is though.
Kdalle, that spreading is only going to occur in a gedanken experiment. The baffles are already up I am sure. My spelling in German leaves much to be desired.
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 29, 2004 03:08 PMWhoop way overdue...sorry not a compuderable friendly day...
OB: increasingly mooshy and decreasing in size since this am, but still user friendly. Waves seem deceptively difficult to catch despite shouldery appearances. Last siren call of the south. Throughout the day seen a scant few heads scattered fat and wide, and all levels too..from outer bar patience, inner bar banzai drops [ when it was working] to a couple of peeps sharing boards and simply playing around on the inside. Really nice to see. Winds calmed down but damn if I can figure out what the heck they're doing. Light north? north east? Will it turn light onshore? Keeps making minute changes in angle. Also refuse to speculate wave size, though shoulder high optimistic average...plus waist high whitewater. Plus knee cappers. Plus a sneaker bastard wave here and there. If you don't paddle out this afternoon, rent a foamie and push a pal around on the inside, it's a happy sunny beach vibey kinda day.
ps fark what was with those raging Santa Ana whoops that's southern California but heck raging hot Santa Ana offshores this morning?! Dang!
Posted by: s.s. latebait at April 29, 2004 03:35 PM"FAT and wide" haaaaa whoops!!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at April 29, 2004 03:36 PMUh, I have a picture of that around here too I think.... Hold on...
Posted by: Kaiser at April 29, 2004 03:44 PMSushi tastes like raw fish. No one speaks English, and I can't read Kanji.
The last south when I was out of town was the biggest of the decade, and it hit in October no less. I think I was in Sweden that time.
tomorrow there should still be south.
My calculations were back of the envelope. There've been several times crude oil showed up at the beach without warning, I'd be surprised if this spill were as bad as that.
High pressure in late April, what will they think of next. BTW, kdalle, is this shortboard the one I am thinking of - the 7'1" from Hawaii?
Posted by: blakestah at April 29, 2004 03:53 PMUm, so what Blakestah, have you been in Japan the past few days or what?
Posted by: Friend #1 at April 29, 2004 04:20 PMYep, haven't you noticed the peaceful quiet in the neighborhood?
It's okay, I have lots of free time, and internet access here kicks butt. The funniest thing I saw - at a shopping mall in Tokyo, there are t-shirts for the Haleiwa supermarket! Very big trendy surf fashion around Tokyo. T&C and Merrick are really big. Surfboards cost $1000+
Posted by: blakestah at April 29, 2004 04:56 PMBlakestah-Short is relative (how short is short in Japan?). The new/old stick is a very gunny 8'-4" Jobson Twinzer swallowtail that's about 10+ years old in excellent conditions. Picked it up used at Wise. According to Dave, the guy said he took it out once on a big day and freaked. It sat in his garage for like 10 years. Lessee that makes 6 Twinzers in my garage. Enough?
Is there a Haleiwa supermarket? Foodland and Yamamoto's (IIRC) are the biggies. There's Kammie's by Sunset. Now, the Huevos at Haleiwa Cafe are mighty tasty.
Friend #1-I hope you are correct. Where were you this a.m. I was lookin' for ya.
Posted by: kdalle at April 29, 2004 05:26 PMmornin' wood
Posted by: j at April 29, 2004 05:32 PMevenin' wood
Posted by: j at April 29, 2004 05:33 PMkomba wa blakstah,
hope japan is treating you well. here's a cool site to check out. http://starb.cool.ne.jp/
Posted by: rza at April 29, 2004 07:18 PMthis guy lives at shonan (beach area near tokyo) and posts daily photos. check out his favorites for some sweet typhoon action.
This has concluded (almost) the best south swell in in a long, long time. Size, duration and consistency.
Posted by: dano at April 29, 2004 08:05 PMJust read the May issue of Wired check it out...the perfect wave pool.
Posted by: old man at April 29, 2004 09:46 PMEndless Summer (on Demand)
Kerry Black is bringing world-class waves to the malls of America. Grab your board - surf's up 6 a.m. to midnight, 365 days a year. [ Coming May 10 ]
By Carl Hoffman
dano, places that pull in a south well should do OK tomorrow, too, less than we've seen, but pretty decent nonetheless.
Posted by: blakestah at April 29, 2004 09:59 PMShonan sucks. It's the capitola of Japan way inside a bay. There are good open ocean spots in the obvious places. Lots of surf in Japan that isn't taken because of the uhh-i-don't-know-about-this factor.
Posted by: loco gringo at April 30, 2004 07:50 AMShonan, "sucking":
Posted by: g at April 30, 2004 08:58 AMsurfed tuesday with only my ex room-mate at mid day- fun sometimes heavy, once in a while shorebreaky & occasionally barreling waves right in our own back yard. Made a cell phone call from my SUV to ensure that all was well at work in my absence. Beautiful day, offshore to glassy....
You all want crowd control? Take a page from the DC sniper- buy yourself a 10-22 or a .30-06 and start picking 'em off. In the water, in the lot, whatever. You think sharks keep people out of the water; wait until you start shooting 'em dead. Go for it tough guys.
Posted by: goodmorning at April 30, 2004 09:28 AMPS: power to pez, out of town on an adventure!
Posted by: goodmorning at April 30, 2004 09:29 AMThat's not Shonan, that's the Japanese Pipeline down in Shikoku. I forget the name.
People on this site are always hyping up shitty surf.
It's like this site is run by real estate agents geard towards getting New Yorkers to move to the sunset district or something.
Freeking sounds like Eric Estrada trying to sell property at lake Shastina. Perfect weather, great golf, great sailing. Meanwhile the place is windsurf heaven with 100 mph gusts with any south wind.
Posted by: loco gringo at April 30, 2004 10:01 AMshonan gets great typhoon swells. i've gotten perfect waves there.
and yes, that photo is from shonan. Inamuragasaki to be exact.
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