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Happy Friday

What up y'all? Anyone get som o' dat dere Pacific juice dis mornin'?

After a long 2 hour sunset sessions last night, my arms were a bit noodley this morning. Along with a persistant morning sore throat, I bagged yet again on the DP. With the negative tide and the swell down, I felt there were only a few options this morning, OB being one of them but I still didn't have the mojo to get up and get after it. However, the winds were light out of the SE and there is definitely enough swell to give it a go. Hopefully the winds stay light thru the day thus creating more opportunities to get on it if you got some later in the day when the tide fills in.

Last night I had a really good sessions at one of our favorite south-winds-are-favorable spots. I seriously caught over 30 waves in 2 hours, all lefts with the exception of 1 right. I would claim 40+ but that might be aggressive. Anyway, the shape was pretty good, nothing super high performance like we get at OB but still really fun. The winds were holding the waves up, sometimes too much but not to the extent that you couldn't get into 'em. I got at least 10 rides that I connected the 2-3 sections that were showing. All in all, it was a good exercise in getting to know how the waves were breaking, the angle of the approaching swell to the sand bar, my positioning vs. the oncoming shoulder, the probability of the wave making it to the inside, yah, yah, yah. On reefs and points, this exercise is much easier since those breaks are way more consistant. But at beach breaks such as those we have around here, I find it rare that conditions set up so you can really find a groove and actually work on your surfing techniques.

A bunch of babbling but its Friday! Get out and get some when you can. Looks like we have our second bigger South pulse coming in later today and should hold through the weekend. Find your favorite south-swell-loving spot and have a good weekend.

Later

Crowded WCT Lineup, imagine trying to get a wave here:

Video of Tom

http://www.surfvid.com
Click on San Francisco
050504

Posted by: at May 7, 2004 10:06 AM

hit it this morning with a beginner friend, his first time out at ob, and a good day for it. negative low probably too low - mostly dumpy mush out there, lines disrupted by the draining channels. but hey, it is friday, and there were a few sets that seemed to pulse from the south showing a bit further outside, though very infrequently. shape seemed to be improving as the tide switched...

Posted by: loon at May 7, 2004 10:07 AM

Kaiser....nice werk scorin' a fun-soundin' sesh last nite!! the only thing i was scorin' was a few too many Jack & Cokes at a buddy's bday bash! whew!...between Vegas over the weekend and a few "social" nites this week...i'm hurtin'! come on weekend!!

cool vid. which one's Tom?

Posted by: ck at May 7, 2004 10:13 AM

nice tom! wow fort point actually looks like you could at least get one turn that day. they guy in the grey is good and all smiles when ive seen him..havent surfed since sunday..bargh..

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 10:19 AM

Alright people what do you all think, Steamer lane last week. Do you consider this big? How can we say what big is, power wise this was duck diveable and barely surfable with a short board. I took a few more pics. Big or just large looking???

Posted by: mexisurf at May 7, 2004 10:23 AM

big on my scale.

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 10:32 AM

Had a blast of a session this morning. Added to my usual prep for departure this morning was a bottle and rocking for my 16 month old to try to get her back to sleep (appearantly she woke back up as I closed the front door, but wifey tells me later that the difference in wake up time from 5:00 to 5:45 mad all the difference).

Met Doof at 6:00 or so and had to convince him we would have fun. Waves are mostly closing out, but you can still find some racy sections. Caught many waves that were a drop and a trip through the bowl before riding high and over before being flopped up onto the bar. Caught a couple that I had a reasonable chance but still got flopped at the end.

My last ride was a late drop into the bowl that I pulled just right to get speed for a run to the nose for the inside impossible wall. This time it held back enough for me to get all the way in to only a couple feet of water. Slid off the back and did the nestea plunge.

Had to fight hard the urge to paddle back out, but Damn I was not going to beat that wave anytime soon.

Posted by: Friend #1 at May 7, 2004 10:34 AM

Mexisurf:

Big for May Day.

And I wish I had been there with my LB.

Posted by: Friend #1 at May 7, 2004 10:37 AM

I surfed by the statue and it was big enough for me. Dang, the current was like OB, though. Had to paddle almost constantly to stay in place. But unlike OB, it was pushing in and out to the pier. If you didn't keep on top of it you ended up in Bum Luck Egypt on your way to the East side.

Posted by: Bruce at May 7, 2004 10:39 AM

My best move in surfing....

Posted by: Kaiser at May 7, 2004 11:02 AM

Middle peak mid may sweet mush. Often at the Lane, like the locals, bark is always greater than the bite.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 7, 2004 11:07 AM

love that Ballard pic

Posted by: ben at May 7, 2004 11:12 AM

love that Ballard pic. weeeee!

Posted by: ben at May 7, 2004 11:13 AM

Mexisurf:
I'd say that pic is "overhead". It is certainly not DOH, so I would not say big.

If it had a 20 second period, I might be more inclined to say big, but with a 14 second period the juice just aint there.

Posted by: surfingsam at May 7, 2004 11:23 AM

Christian, love to hear you are moving back on over to this side! Hopefully we start seeing more of you at the beach eh?

BTW, I still need to get in touch w/ Alex regarding some much needed ding repair.

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very much worth checking up on:
www.mandalacustonshapes.com
the pink twin keel is siiiick

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oops, www.mandalacustomshapes.com

Posted by: ben at May 7, 2004 11:33 AM


Christian, three good surfers in one house.
I know where to call for a photo op. and Bruce that current is no joke...

Posted by: mexisurf at May 7, 2004 11:33 AM


my .02: just large lookin'.

Posted by: g at May 7, 2004 11:39 AM

Mexisurf/ Bruce- other surf photogs!

Have enjoyed some of your photos- I've built up a nice Nor Cal collection of my own over the past 15 years!

I'm heading out on a boat trip in S Pac this summer.Was wondering what your experience in taking surf shots from a boat. Any recomendations for Film/ Lens/Shutter speed/ Polarizer etc. I usually shoot with a N-100 Velvia/ Sensia can't beat the colors but sometimes get blurred shots on the fast action.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

Posted by: Amatuer surf photog at May 7, 2004 11:58 AM

SoCal buoys are not showing south yet. Probably nothing Saturday, which means the period is a little shorter than expected (17 sec period peak). Pushes it all back about 36 hours, and means a LOT of the swell will coincide with Northwest Wind.

To stay up to date, watch for 17 and 20 second energy at the San Nicolas Island buoy from 190-200 degrees. Once it hits there it will be 12 hours to here. But my guess it later Sunday at earliest, Monday will be the day, and Tuesday the Northwest Wind will kill it.

Posted by: blakestah at May 7, 2004 12:14 PM

The silent assasian has spoken....

Posted by: Kaiser at May 7, 2004 12:25 PM

ahh shit.

Thats the second time I've been spotted and posted up. I guess I better tone down my aggressive posts now that I am no longer anon.

But yeah. The waves were not so great or plentiful but there were just the 4-5 of us. The kid in the grey suit I guess you could say is still recovering since he was the San Fransycho kid who broke his neck but he is a very good surfer.

The goofy foot in the greenish wetsuit and board is the guy named Philipino Mike with the red jeep who surfs lot's of Linda Mar. Haruwn (a legendary standup bass jazz musician) of course is the booger.

Oh yeah....that's Toddy Hawaii's board (mine is still stolen) and I have yet to figure it out.

Posted by: tom at May 7, 2004 12:33 PM

Amatuer,
Love the Velia I use it 90% of the time and I use E100s Kodak for the sweet red light, it only blurs if you shoot at slow speeds, you shouldn't have a problem in the S Pac. give the boat driver a few bucks to postion the boat for you, you should do this anyhow, they don't make shit.
I set my DOF accordingly as well as my AF. I use the smallest appeture possible without slowing the shutter too much.
Light is everything!!!! Don't bother shooting if the light is wrong, in fron of you over head etc...

Posted by: mexisurf at May 7, 2004 12:42 PM

anyone see this yesterday?

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2004/05/06/SPGDJ6GB541.DTL

mentions a 3 ft dorsal sighting at bo-bo recently, & the author implies that it was whitey. but 3ft seems big, more like whale than shark size to me... any marine biologist types out there care to comment?

Posted by: loon at May 7, 2004 01:09 PM

Christian! So psyched you guys are moving out here..welcome! You are going to be loving it out here!

OB: eschewed written report in favor of attaching a homing beacon to my left boot. There were maybe 4-5 peeps out when I walked on the sand, so I headed to a peak and BLAM 3 shreders I mean rippers materialized. Not being a ripper, and self consciously trying to be invisible as usual, I moved to another shoulder but more surfers ran out. All utter experts of course. Repeated this scenario until I must have hit or passed every shoulder and peaky peak within a mile. Yes I found them all, good for me! Godammit what does it take to hide out around here! At this point peeps were just walking down the beach and clearly didn't need my indespensible direction anymore. Managed to find the most unworkable spot at ob and even then there might have been a couple of poor souls who thought my left boot was the surfpulse cam. So yeah....there are better and worse peaks out there, knee to head/6foot, not much juice - even I could duckdive most of it - but ALL different shapes. SW onshore is coming on and quality is deteriorating. There are also significantly less folks in the water. Of course everyones' peak selection and session today revolves around my boot and not their own lunch hour and good judgement ;) Cheers folks,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 7, 2004 01:09 PM

which is worse today, my spelling or surfing? agh

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 7, 2004 01:11 PM

I can cut some slack on Monday. But on Tuesday, I'm gonna shut it down. Consider buying kite's boy's and girl's.

Posted by: Northwest Wind at May 7, 2004 01:13 PM

spelling.....

Posted by: Mr. Ferraris at May 7, 2004 01:17 PM

s.s., could i persuade you to offer your homing beacon services at other locations on our fine coast? what a fabulous decoy you could be. allowing peeps to score while you distract the masses from the "truth". please let me know. thanks!

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 7, 2004 01:31 PM

I can tell you, it is not at all hard to see whitey from the salmon boats at Duxbury Reef. Surfers always oblivious, a few hundred yards away. Same at Pedro Point, too, whitey is often there, just outside the Bay Area's most common surf spot.

Posted by: Lone Fisherman at May 7, 2004 01:39 PM

christian! welcome back!

blakestah, thanks for the update on the swell. hopefully the wind stays down. i love clean, south swell summer days.

s.s., i feel your pain. that's why i surf at night with my infrared goggles.

Posted by: lerm at May 7, 2004 01:41 PM

I think i had a beacon on my boot also. I was the only person out for a while in the middle today. for some reason a group of three fools found it necessary to paddle out within ten feet of me. the waves were the same everywhere(not that good)why? i don't get it.

Posted by: 182 at May 7, 2004 01:45 PM

I had a run in with whitey at Sloat at the end of last summer. I was outside with a buddy complaining about not getting enough rides or something when suddenly just off to my left and 50 feet away I see a fin. I go "What the fuck is that?" My pal says "What did you see?" I go "A fin. Over there." And right as he looked, it came back up again and began slowly gliding through the surface.

Needless to say, I don't think I've ever paddled harder for a wave.....

Posted by: limevoodoo at May 7, 2004 01:51 PM

I'm sitting in my office staring at a Surfing Mag calendar photo of a perfect right tube in Baja. I wonder if that's the kind of Stuff E is getting. I keep trying to put myself in there but... Hmmm. reminds me an old Twilight Zone episode. Maybe better not try too hard.

Posted by: Dennis at May 7, 2004 02:02 PM

mexisurf:

i too would have to say the the pics from Lane sunday make it look much bigger than it felt. i took a really long ride off the point to the staircase to walk back up the point and thought DAMN its huge out there when i saw it from the cliff, then i jumped back in the water and thought DAMN its really soft out here.

it was solid overhead and by the face height slightly bigger than DOH. but absolutely zero power. giant mush buggers with huge faces and big shoulders.

i got caught inside several times and duck dove without even hanving the board ripped out of my hands.

big no, DOH yes, very very soft and mellow yes, easy day to practice in overhead surf yes. reading my posts....priceless!

Posted by: dsx at May 7, 2004 02:11 PM

I prefer not to know that Whitey is out there. I know he is there but I just would rather not know about it.

Having seen a fin (what kind? I have no idea nor do I want to), it took me a while to be comfortable again.

I'd rather not know.

Posted by: Kaiser at May 7, 2004 02:16 PM

I'm with you. In fact, I'd rather not think about it. Won't bring it up again......

Posted by: limevoodoo at May 7, 2004 02:20 PM

Back in high skool on flat days I used to scuba dive out at the Lane and many of the reefs on the westside. i've seen small 4' sharks cruising about between the kelp beds. once i was actually spearfishing and had a couple of ling cods in my bag, at which point i emptied it's contents and gave up spearfishing entireley. best to just not think about it........

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 7, 2004 02:32 PM

mama mia..

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 02:51 PM

sorry guys

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 02:52 PM

Bagel, don't make me do it...

Posted by: Kaiser at May 7, 2004 02:59 PM

ha!

Posted by: bbr at May 7, 2004 03:04 PM

NOOOOO!!

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 03:05 PM

Amateur: Mexisurf is da' man- I'm just an old fart with expensive hobbies. Once I got the 10D Canon digital I've never gone back to film. Most of the time I'm shooting in auto mode with image stabilization and autofocus. But I concur that light is everything, and a good lens will ruin you for anything less.

My one non-professional suggestion is that shitty lighting can sometimes create pretty cool images. I sorta' like weird backlit photos and those times you get too much sun and it turns everything silver. That's why I find the digital so fun- the experimentation is free. A dozen or so miles north of Cruise:

Posted by: Bruce at May 7, 2004 03:05 PM

DSX & MexiSurf: OK, OK, it was mushy on Sunday at a certain south-facing secret spot. But there were a few sets breaking top-to-bottom where peeps in the lot were moaning and groaning in sympathy. I KNOW, I WAS THERE! In the lot that is, certainly not on the peak! :-)

p.s. DSX looked damned good out there!

Posted by: Bruce at May 7, 2004 03:19 PM

nice surf today. v f-ers was really nice today.
hope some of ya'll caught the niceness.....

the south is just barely starting to show a bit....
manana in the a.m. could be really suh-weet.
wassup with the souths arriving on the weekend?

hope all have a great weekend.
kaiser—that bagel shot is classic. i have not laughed
that hard all day. thanks.

Posted by: korewin at May 7, 2004 03:25 PM

thanks bruce for your encouragement!

i think Bruce illustrates the point perfectly, up on the cliff it looked really serious out there, big peaks coming in, a few breaking top to bottom for sure, and definately 12-15' faces.

but looks can be decieving and i think what mexi and myself were pointing out was that it just wasnt very powerful

Posted by: dsx at May 7, 2004 03:35 PM

looks gl@$$Y

Posted by: bagel at May 7, 2004 04:29 PM

Looking pretty good up in here right now.

I just pulled up one of those evil cams: What the hell with the 7 peeps trying to get "noticed" out there?

Enjoy the weekend y'all. Don't run anyone over on a red fish please!

Jessica says, "Be careful out there boys and girls..."

Posted by: Kaiser at May 7, 2004 05:05 PM

jessica's back says "i'm sore from luggin these things around the past 21 years"

Posted by: j at May 7, 2004 05:18 PM

Bruce, give yourself credit you post all your shots. I only post the very few that look good, you've got some real gems. If I posted all my images you see mostly crao. Bruce is right about the back light, you can get some sweet shots, a little harder i the in the S Pac but maybe at sunset.

Surf going off about an hour ago..OH MY GOD soo freeeken good. What a gift

Posted by: mexisurf at May 7, 2004 06:25 PM

Amateur Photog: I would be happy to post your shots at my silly site. Send me an email and we can work out the details.

Mexisurf: You're too diplomatic- I've seen your stuff!

DSX: Most guys would be wetting their wetsuits looking at those 12-15' faces. Give yourself credit. I saw some of the local studs looking a little beat up (you can see in the eyes).

Have fun, all. Let's hope Dr. Blake is wrong and it hits on Sunday and not Monday.

Posted by: Bruce at May 7, 2004 07:06 PM

Thanks Bruce, Swell is showing early. have a good weekend all

Posted by: mexisurf at May 7, 2004 07:19 PM

With the winds picking up, I don't know about tomorrow. But I've had three very fun days. Yesterday was the best: consistent 4-foot rollers at Sifica---more and longer rides than ever, and I could actually work on my surfing more than my paddling and underwater acrobatics.

This foggy morning at OB I dropped the wifenkid at a get-sponsors charity bike ride in GG park (they made $500K! for only a 7mi ride). Figuring I had only an hour or so to surf I marched into the water nearby, and within 20 minutes or so, I had paddled out, and...FRIG! Why does even small OB do this to me?! There was a strong north current as well, so I got a great paddling workout, two great zipppppppity rides (that convinced me that the way to avoid stalling out like I do at Sifica, is by having less wimpy waves), a few ho-hums, and a bunch of nose-buried pitch-pole hello-sand tumbles.

Tommorow if the south looks good, find me at the j*tty.

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