return to forever...
Back in the northern latitudes. Things look decidedly bleak, surf-wise, up here in the crisp, modern, first-world. Yesterday I was surfing head-high, glassy peelers at a tucked-away central american point-break in 82 degree water. This morning I gazed out on onshore, waist-high, close-out dribblers in 48 degree water. uggh.. It's strange and exciting to be back in this beautiful, clean, chilly, stylized city. After a month of 3rd-world immersion and inferno-like heat i was starting to feel the itch to return to the comparitively slick, orderly, safe, comfy confines of home.
I haven't had a chance to read back through the posts over the last month, but it sounds like Kaiser manned the helm with ease and charisma... and that there were a modicum of rideable waves pulsing through the bay area. schweeet!
soo.. shit.. i took a bunch of photos and have a handful of potentially intriquing tales to tell.. I'm hoping to piece together a little central american highlight website in the next few days so be on the lookout.
shiit.. and the waves down there.. god damn.. To be brutally honest.. this was the sickest surf trip i've ever gone on in terms of waves... hands down.. I mean.. one macking south swell after another alighted the points, reefs and beaches i parked myself at with laughable consistency.. I probably surfed almost 100 sessions during the 31-day trip.. Every day had surf. Every fucking day. it was uncanny. Some of the setups were unreal.. Playa Sympatico was a lowers-like A-frame reef that fired through all the tides and blew offshore all day. The left was hollow and ledging on low tide. Backdooring the right on high-tide was the shite.. Then the last 10 days, chilling with Jake at (basically) our very own right point break.. Punta Pizza looked like a suped-up 4-mile.. wrapping around a cobble-stone/river-mouth point with a gaggle of thatched-rooved huts huddled at the terminus of land. We alternatively surfed, chowed down on papusas, surfed, slept, surfed, blazed, surfed, hiked, surfed, bungled through spanish with the locals (not jake though - he's fluent, which helped immensily with the ladies - more on that later). ALmost every drop required an over-the-ledge commitment. I could feel my surfing improve and my stoke lift. With each wave you were pretty much guaranteed 2 or 3 strikes at the lip.. whether it be powerhouse bashes, light-footed lip-dancing, hangin' 5, or soul-trimming.. it was all possible..
shiit.. but.. work beckons.. more lates..
anybody surf this morning?
chopes
good to have you back e-funk! Pics, stories, tales? let us have em! Hawaii 1 month here I come
Posted by: Ian at May 17, 2004 10:28 AMhail the return of the king!! schweet!! e....good to have you back....we've all been eagerly awaiting your arrival.
however, i've gotta say that Kaiser did a killah job manning the helm and keeping the stoke alive while you were gone! in fact, it seems that the spirit of e inspired him to delve into topics as far-ranging as oceanography...board-evolution...surf-history...and, even, a bit of introspection! of course, he remained true to himself and continued to post from his collection of fine wahine shots! ; ) it's good to know that we have a solid "substitute" blog leader for any future days the "teacher" is away!
Posted by: ck at May 17, 2004 10:45 AMwelcome back e, sounds like you had a great experience. nothing like a 34 degree water temp swing in 24 hours.
Posted by: j at May 17, 2004 11:10 AME, welcome back amigo! Anxiously awaiting further updates for sure.
BTW, the above pic was not of OB this morning....
Posted by: Kaiser at May 17, 2004 11:12 AMabove pic is either slater or cj getting a serious aqua closet at Teahupoo.
too bad Hedgy got hurt, have seperated my shoulder before, not fun at all.
Posted by: barney at May 17, 2004 11:24 AMe - Welcome home! That reverse culture shock can be a mothahfukkah, eh? Cold water, no waves, crowded if we do get some ...
Posted by: Jimmie at May 17, 2004 11:34 AMWhile Kaiser did, indeed, do an excellent job of covering for you, I'm sure he's relieved to have you back at the tiller.
You basically missed about a week of unreal waves here in April. Other than that it's been the typical springtime deal around these parts. Except that, the jetty at Surfer's Beach in Half Moon Bay (AKA "The Princeton Jetty," "The El Granada Jetty," "Sesame Street") has become the new "all-time, mysto, secret spot" and Blakestah has vowed to only report on that spot from now on.
Haven't seen any posts from BVB lately. I miss that guy! Most of the other "usual suspects" have been popping up pretty regularly and some new posters have come on the scene. One of my new faves is Klooless Kook, for unabashed gremmie-stoke.
I'd be interested to hear if you bothered to look any world news whilst you were away; and if the perspective was any different down south than we saw up here in "El Norte." That's one of the main things I like about traveling abroad - the filters change.
Good to have you back E. It's been a bit depressing over the last few days. We need some cool stories and photos! Machado at Steamer Lake on Saturday for the SNL contest.

Posted by: bruce at May 17, 2004 11:57 AMwhat's up jimmie.. that's cool that the jetty has been servin' up the goods.. watch out for the "pimp" down there.
I have to admit that during my 1 month trip, i was totally unaware of world events the entire time. it seemed that many of the newspapers dealt with local news, though i couldn't understand the spanish. Not once did anybody flinch about my status as an american. Every traveler i discussed politics with shared a common loathing of Bush and his administration. I also had a few semi in-depth discussions with Jake about Paul Wolfowitz, whose son was Jake's roomate in college. Jake ruminated about the intense logic of the wolfowitz clan.. but also pondered their probable flawed base assumptions.
Spending most of my trip in rural, bumblefuck central america.. i found the people to be mostly blissfully unaware of world politics. The mode of life is more centered on day-to-day existence.. tending the fields, caring for the livestock, fetching the water from the community well, washing the clothes, cooking, fishing, chilling, cleaning.. there is a noticeable absence of media.
Posted by: e at May 17, 2004 12:02 PMWelcome back Ethan.
I think the waves you rode yesterday are expected to trickle in to California this week, as early as tonight possibly.
And I will be riding them.
Posted by: tom at May 17, 2004 12:17 PMwelcome back E! sounds dope cant wait to see the shots and hear more stories..get yourself a nice burrito for lunch..i miss those things when im away.
Posted by: bagel at May 17, 2004 12:28 PMWelcome back E! I miss those psycadelic posts of yours. But Kaiser did us good with his brand of edumacational ramblings.
Posted by: Mexi at May 17, 2004 12:40 PMhttp://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2004/05/16/BAGIC6MHP11.DTL
Another boat down near OB on Saturday...
Posted by: Kaiser at May 17, 2004 12:45 PMhey jimmie, give it a rest already.
and quit beating around the bush - did you score any pussy or what?
pimp it
Posted by: EG Pimp at May 17, 2004 12:49 PMegp
E, If you smell envy, it's coming from me. A dream trip realized. One of these years I'm gonna do it.
Posted by: Dennis at May 17, 2004 12:59 PMI wouldn't look for any south today/tomorrow.
Wait till late week though, something should come in around Friday/Saturday at placed exposed to 180. That pretty much means the first place exposed to the south, as you drive south on route 1, is......
aw, just can't do it. Enjoy it egp. Welcome back e.
Posted by: blakestah at May 17, 2004 01:31 PMSecret spot
Posted by: mexi at May 17, 2004 01:43 PMwelcome back e
Posted by: over the falls at May 17, 2004 01:54 PMKaiser - best substitute job this side of jack black
"its a long way to the top" -----but both of you guys have made it.
welcome back e! glad to hear that you had a world politics free trip. all of us back home got way too much. i would have traded the NYTimes for 82º water with A-frames, private point breaks and mosquito bites ANYTIME.
counting down till september and a month of vacation down the road somewhere right along side a letter from wells fargo notifying me of a flaw in their system... and it turns out that my student loans are no more!
oh, my dog has personally decided to combat the blue jellyfish problem, he is going to eat every last one off the beach. totally awesome huh? at least he isn't rolling in dead seal.
peas.
Posted by: elias at May 17, 2004 01:57 PMOB RULES

Posted by: bad breath todd at May 17, 2004 01:58 PMBTW, Blakestah. I stopped in at SF Surf about the twin fins. With a bit of work, I got a pair from John. Not really what I wanted but good enough for the task at hand. I mentioned you sent me.
Checked out your fin box too. Interesting. At first I was a bit surprised at the fin choice (length) but with a little thought it made sense. Rumor has it you're gonna put one on a long board for testing.
Posted by: Dennis at May 17, 2004 02:08 PMaaa polio pond
Posted by: bagel at May 17, 2004 02:13 PMegp - Sorry man, I thought you would appreciate my sarcastic comments for the veiled jetty-envy they contain.
Posted by: Jimmie at May 17, 2004 02:28 PMe - it's probably a good thing that you were able to avoid the media during your trip. In case you get to lookin' at old newspapers and come across disturbing photos on the front page, they're not some demented white-trash amatuer swinger's idea of an S&M party - it's another of our more recent shameful moments in this whole Iraq deal.
Welcome back E. It's most execellent to hear that you scored daily. I'm glad you had your fun in the warm Offshore Breeze. You back home and your ass is mine now. Gotta blow, PEACE.
Posted by: Northwest Wind at May 17, 2004 02:37 PMparadise by the dashboard light....
around when I started surfing, that was huge. We had it on eight track, played it till it whined going to or coming from the beach.
Posted by: blakestah at May 17, 2004 02:51 PMNorth California: Expect the first main pulse to start arriving Monday (5/17) late afternoon with period to 22 secs but size tiny if even noticeable. Some real energy to start hitting on Tuesday (5/18) with period turning to 20 secs near 1 PM. Swell 2 ft @ 19-20 secs (3-4 ft faces) by sunset. Period down to 18-19 secs Wednesday AM (5/19) with swell up to 2.3 ft @ 18-19 secs early (3.5-4.5 ft faces) and size still on the increase, starting to max near sunset as period turns to 17 secs with swell 3.0 ft @ 17-18 secs (4-5 ft faces, with sets to 6.5 ft faces best breaks). Additional energy from the secondary fetch to start arriving at 9 AM Thursday (5/20) with size building underneath through the late morning, reinforcing the existing primary swell. Swell peaking through the day at 3.3 ft @ 17 secs (5-6 ft faces with sets to 7 ft at best breaks). Solid energy to be left by Friday sunrise (5/21) with swell 3 ft @ 16 secs (4.5-5.0 ft faces) and slowly dropping through the day as period moves to 15 secs by sunset. Smaller 14 second energy to be present at sunrise Saturday (5/22) and fading towards 13 secs by sunset. Some additional energy might build underneath from another small fetch forecast for the South Pacific, providing some more staying power, but mostly small size expected. Swell Direction: 192-200 degrees
-Storm Surf.com-
Posted by: at May 17, 2004 03:01 PMOnce again, thanks to all of you guys with the good thoughts as I substituted for E while he was gone.
I was completely surprised by the "extra" hour or so of time I had this morning to actually get shit done. Gotta give you props E, this thing is much more time consuming then I ever imagined.
EG Pimp, you are classic!

Posted by: Kaiser at May 17, 2004 03:02 PMBlakestah check out Fight Club, the man can act too.
Posted by: bad breath todd at May 17, 2004 03:11 PMe,
Stoked to read you scored waves, sounds like all the good karma you spread at OB can back ten fold.
elias - my dog chowed down on the blue jelly fish at OB a few weeks back - then proceed to yack them all over the back of the car on the way home. Must say the little buggers smell worse the second time around.
Posted by: d looose at May 17, 2004 03:16 PMthoughts on that StormSurf report:
hope!, eternal!, springs!, et cetera!!
subsequent thoughts upon reading Blakestah's report:
sub50 water temps, nearshores, slop, bollocks.
but wait: i ride a 9'. and i'm on extendovacation. all is not lost. ;)
welcome home, e...
Posted by: friendly at May 17, 2004 03:36 PMall this talk of trips south and I couldn't resist. some pics of my recent trip south. sure miss that warm water and clean south swell action.
Cabo is too easy yet so enjoyable.
Posted by: barney at May 17, 2004 03:48 PManyone know any auto repair blogs?
Drove home and parked. Went out to car and for some reason the clutch pedal has no pressure. Like a spring or hook fell off. Pedal goes to floor with nor resistance and then stays there stuck in the rug. (Clutch is new (10k miles) and was running great?
Anyone know anyt'ing?
Posted by: SUV driver at May 17, 2004 04:34 PMDunno about your car, but for hydraulic clutches there ususally is a spring that keeps the pedal up, and that spring provides some resistance (but so does the hydraulics---though maybe not much). Does the clutch still work (engage if you pull it up manually? If so, it's probably just the spring right at the pedal.
Posted by: Klooless Kook at May 17, 2004 04:59 PMe...welcome home. Now prepare for some serious withdrawals. Can't wait to see the pictures and hear more about it. Pretty much living vicariously through everyone right now. The two little ones are keeping me and the wifey on our toes.
Now, can any of the other parents tell me when the sleep deprevation ends?
On a more depressing note, I went to a memorial for a guy that used to work for me back in my corporate incarnation. Kid was exceptionally bright and made my job incredibly easy. Ended up getting cancer at 27...but continued to work through chemo and then left to go to graduate school. Continued through grad school with a b+ average while having the cancer matasticize (sp?) and while continuing chemo. He was due to graduate on the 21st. One of the saddest things i've seen in a long time. Sorry for the downer...but the point is appreciate each day and live to the fullest. I felt compelled to get that out...
Cheers all!
Posted by: jdz at May 17, 2004 05:23 PMthanks jdz..
Posted by: e at May 17, 2004 05:28 PMDoes that bouy really say 3.0 ft @ 15 sec.?
I think it does...........
I am surfing! Where, I don't know, but I am surfing....
Posted by: Kaiser at May 17, 2004 05:41 PMNow it says 2.6 ft @ 6 sec.
Posted by: blakestah at May 17, 2004 08:07 PMBuoys will be buoys.
Posted by: hoo nose at May 17, 2004 08:33 PMBut at least the wind machine is slowing down tonight.
Posted by: limevoodoo at May 17, 2004 09:32 PMwoke up this morning to Lake Michigan on my doorstep.......the horror......the horror...
Posted by: davenada at May 18, 2004 08:47 AMCJ wins..Nathan Webster gets a dislocated shoulder 5 minutes into the final poor fellow..
Posted by: bagel at May 18, 2004 10:06 AMe,
welcome back, bro.
on the auto mech blog, i had a similar thing happen with my old vw bus. cable busted.
if you have the time, check out the manual for your car at any auto parts store. sounds like it could be an easy diagnosis/fix. peace.
Posted by: bird at May 18, 2004 11:45 AMhey e,
bienvenidos.
came across this, the media can be pretty hilarious. does this sound like el salvador to you?
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/3690441.stm
gvibe
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