small crappy sloppy and onshore
it's laughable out there this morning. The slight shape we've seen the last two mornings has been blown to smithereens. It's topsy-turvy out there. it's tiny. it's gutless. it's triple-whack swayzack. For some unknown reason i got it in my head to surf this morning, even though i saw the trees outside my window doing their little onshore-wind dance. Suited up and scampered down to the ocean. The pungent smell of rotting jellyfish carcasses mixed with the grey/foggy post-dawn drisel to produce a vibrantly uplifting mood at the beach. sort-of. not to mention the hacked, ugly-looking waves. But.. nevertheless.. Waves!! Soo.. i headed out and caught a handful. i surfed a little 6' 0'' pig board a friend recently lent me. It's real fat and retro looking. The conditions being what they were it would be difficult to make even a remotely objective analysis of the board's performance. regardless it was still fun to be out in the ocean, catching waves and just bobbing around. I noticed a few large brown jellyfish floating just below the surface. I could have sworn that one of them followed me around the lineup.. i kept thinking of the movie, "the blob."
cool.. soo.. Buckethead is playing this friday and saturday nights at the independent.. i'm planning on hitting it on friday. If you like the electric guitar and you like an avant-guard approach to music, you might enjoy what the Buckethead has to offer. The man is definitely strange. he wears a scary white mask on stage and a huge kentucky fried chicken bucket on his head. He stands 6'6" or thereabouts and has this brooding, lumbering presence. His guitar skillz are otherwordly. literally. he's from his own planet and is often known to transfix listeners at his live shows onto this planet of his. Beware the buckethead.. but.. embrace the buckethead.. if you're planning on hitting one of the shows.. prepare yourself.
snooping through some old photos last night i found some colorful shots from Nusa Tengarra, Indonesia... these were taken during the summer of 2001.
Ritualistic pig slaughter during a village celebration
*detach from your perceptions of reality.
Posted by: travel bug at May 27, 2004 10:30 AM*Dose yourself adequately with vitamin *LIFE*
*feel the life paths and daily priorities of others
*embrace the world to embrace yourself
*surf too!
sweet Indo left e
Posted by: doc at May 27, 2004 10:37 AMwe are a bit concerned about what appears to be a corrupt (ala MJ) infatuation with young males, particularly the half naked blanket boy in pic 3 who, despite the bruised head, appears happy to see you.
JJ Cale lastnight in Petaluma was insane. The guy flat out rips the guitar and makes it look so easy.
Catch him at the Catalyst if you can, well worth it.
Posted by: barney at May 27, 2004 10:43 AMfunny that you posted those pictures today. just yesterday i was reading your indo journal for the first time. i was there in fall of 1999 and reading your description of desert point brought me right back into my experience at that break. i arrived there over water rather than land. and honestly paddling from the boat to the line-up at desert point was deadly frightening. the "4 foot" swell was the largest, most powerful, heaviest, fastest four foot wave i had ever seen. reading your journal also brought to mind how different an experience can be just because of your sex. i was so much more tentative in my explorations than you were. and i can't help but think that it had something to do with our genders. not to beat a dead horse, but traveling alone as a woman in indonesia was really hard at times. i just wanted to befriend the local people, as you describe having done, but every single local guy i met had other intentions, even when they seemed benign to start out with. they were never frightening, don't get me wrong, but it was just annoying, that i could never qualify as their buddy. but only, honestly, as a sexual object because i was a western woman. anyway, enough on that, i know... i'm gonna find me a piece of that south swell this weekend, even if i have to drive to baja.
Posted by: steamwand at May 27, 2004 10:48 AMHow do I get that barrel2.gif from 5/26 to be my screen saver? Has to be active though. It will be perfect when a presentation is running long, I am answering dumb questions, and the meaning of life shows up on the screen in full view of the suits.
Posted by: msurfer at May 27, 2004 10:50 AMyo, steamwand ...i just wanna be yo friend

Posted by: #8 at May 27, 2004 10:54 AMSteamwand,
Although I'm a man I see what you what you mean. India was hard on us, sometimes we would have literally 50 people follow us down the street and people would be in my wifes face(no joke)! My wife refuses to travel with me in the middle East. She has done a lot of traveling in South & Central America, Africa and found it to be pretty open, cept fo the occasional cat call.
Posted by: mexisurf at May 27, 2004 11:04 AMBarney - thanks for the JJ Cale tip. Been wanting to see him for years. Didn't know he was on tour...
Posted by: traut at May 27, 2004 11:17 AMunfortunately I thought the Catalyst show was tonight but it was two days ago. He is still on tour though and I would make a serious effort to see him. He's old yet still has a lot of kick!
http://www.jjcale.com/tourdates.html
Last time I saw him was St.Paddys here in SF about 2-3 years ago, actually got to see the private KFOG show AND the night show at Bimbo's that time. He was pretty much all acoustic that tour except for a few band mates that would come on later in the set. He tells some sweet stories between songs about Eric Clapton and such. This tour he has the full band though and boy, they are seriously rocking.
Do yourself a favor and check out this real americana music.
Posted by: barney at May 27, 2004 11:23 AMOB: thick drizzly fog, steady onshores, ankle to the lucky pelvic high mushers. Very meager pickings, but doable. Surface is less bumpy and currently smaller swells than parts this morning. No takers but there have been one or two folks bobbing around.
E was that you on a blue board this am? I was out on dawn cooties patrol with Friendly and another female friend. At one point I thought I saw a HUGE sea lion at the crest of a wave, as the water threw over the sea lion turned out to be thousands of blue jellies flying over the little lip. Jellies underfoot, paddling through, under hand when they slip onto the deck of the board..geezuz!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at May 27, 2004 11:23 AMword steamwand. i definitely can empathize with you. Like Mexi i witnessed some heinous scenes in India where the locals just wouldn't leave the western women alone. gawking and following and staring and pointing and congregating in big packs of dudes. Sometimes they would go over the line and start to poke and grab. A few times i had to literally grab my friend (German girl) around the shoulder and get her away from the group of men. I had to tell them that we were married just so they'd leave her alone. I talked with a bunch of Indian men about their viewpoint and they related that their take on western women was that they were "loose and easy".. "like baywatch" etc.. it was really disturbing and sad. Throughout Eastern Asia the vibe toward a solo-traveling women felt definitely more laid-back and respectful than in India.. or Italy! but in the cities like Jakarta, Madaram, Managua and Vientiane, and in the bigger towns the western women would still get those lascivious, objectying stares and comments. I talked with many of the locals about it and they were all amazed that western women would actually have sex before marriage.
If you ladies think that us american men are skeezy and horribly prone to objectifying women.. there are many many places on earth where this point of view is still a deeply entrenched, normal part of the functioning, patriarchal societies. Deep down, in the homes and in the minds, the women have immense power and ability.. but in the streets, in business and in public.. the women are still second class citizens.
crazy shiit..
Posted by: e at May 27, 2004 11:29 AMWell, from our preliminary research, it looks like tickets to Sri Lanka are beyond our current budget. Since August is our only travel-month option this year and my wife refuses to go back to Bali during the prime Aussie holiday period, we may be headed for a non-surfing destination this summer. Suggestions? Sympathy? A smack-in-the-back-of-the-head-to-snap-me-out-of-it?
Posted by: Jimmie at May 27, 2004 11:30 AMdoc - You are a seriously SICK man. But then again, your not the one posting the pics of the little boys. Sorry e, just kiddin'! ;)
http://trimyourlifeaway.com/
Posted by: Ian at May 27, 2004 11:31 AMahhhhhhh no surf driving me insane. I've been trying not to think of what I'm missing in indo right now, and then E has to go and post pics.
anyway...Here's some pics from the same location that E visited. Indo's ok.

Posted by: lewis at May 27, 2004 11:31 AMe, did kaiser hand you my coffey egg? all good if so. it was made for for the slop you charged.
#8 too farking funny.....
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at May 27, 2004 11:33 AMspeaking of talented artists, i caught donavon frakenreiter on tuesday night at the independent. solid show, good vibe all around.
couple photos from the show...
AND

Posted by: bojon at May 27, 2004 11:34 AMlewis.. that first photo is bad-ass.. as is the second.
bojon - you da man.. how's lil' bojon?
Posted by: e at May 27, 2004 11:51 AMbojon - caught donavon's show the other nite, too. very good vibe, everyone was grooving and having fun. thx for posting the pics, i forgot a camera...
Posted by: j at May 27, 2004 11:57 AMfree kobe!
good one doc.
almost surfed today..
lewis is charging!
reef contest from the center of the earth:

slayer!
Posted by: bagel at May 27, 2004 12:00 PMbrother e,
lil' bojon bringing endless joy...
and already ruling her domain...

Posted by: bojon at May 27, 2004 12:00 PMbig sale all weekend at wise and oneil's multiple stores.
looks like great prices on wetsuits.
not to start a where to shop debate but just an FYI
Posted by: at May 27, 2004 12:08 PMTonight I'm off to SC for four days. Most of the reports show the south peaking late Friday and holding through Saturday. Now don't change your mind, Dr. Blakestah!
If any of you ugly mugs plan to head south, shoot me an email with your plans and I'll try to get some pics.
Anyone competing in the Log-Board contest at Dizzyland?
Posted by: Bruce Moose at May 27, 2004 12:12 PMe: there's a good side and bad side to claude.
I won't out the wave or island, but I stayed at his place for free after helping with a non-profit he's set up. They've drilled wells for local villages, built the best and only health clinic on that side of the island, and rebuilt and re-stocked local schools.
see www.*****foundation.org (***** being the name of the island we were on.)
the new health clinic
school
empty space
Posted by: lewis at May 27, 2004 12:12 PM
e: now you've backtracked and removed the claude reference. fair enough. Feel free to remove the rest.
Posted by: lewis at May 27, 2004 12:14 PMPICKIN' UP MY NEW RIDE TOMORROW, OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH YEAH!!!
Posted by: j at May 27, 2004 12:26 PMBruce, I am heading east to the islands for a few days. Care to come and shot some film?
Posted by: Kaiser at May 27, 2004 12:33 PMJimmie, Mexico is always within the budget, often has surf. Or Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador. Mainland Mex is an easy trip, decent surf, decent for non-surfing travel-mate.
Once you hook me up with the adoption gig, I'll handle all the travel plans...
south is already building in SoCal, we may hit 2 ft 17-20 sec 190 deg by morning!!!
Posted by: blakestah at May 27, 2004 01:00 PMblakestah - if we adopt you, will you put Max on your dental plan? He's about used our's up.
Posted by: Jimmie at May 27, 2004 01:25 PMWe talked about Mainland Mexico (it's been many years since we've been there) - but Mexico and lots of C.A. destinations in August can be at their worst weather-wise - HOTTER than HOT and WETTER than WET. We may leave the boy at home and go get romantic in up in Canada.
I have a good dental plan...
Go to Peru in August. I can put you in touch with Eric.
Posted by: blakestah at May 27, 2004 01:52 PMNot bad at all!
I was at OB entertaining diners from 11:30 to 1:00, with very few others out around me. It didn't look hugely promising from the beach, but once out, every once in a while there'd be a nice, clean peeling wave that had to be---I swear to God!---almost waist high! Fun little rides. The light wind made it look rougher than it was, but the swell was pretty disorganized in between the li'l gems.
I'm really enjoying these travel tales. My wife actually suggested (without prodding!) that we consider a vacation to a beachy/surfy place. (Daydreams . . .)
Posted by: Klooless Kook at May 27, 2004 01:54 PM"entertaining diners"...nice play, klooless.
"laughable" is the perfect description for this morning...we laughed a fair share, and surfed very little in those impeccable conditions. (ooh, "delusional" would be a good descriptor, too.)
howevah, it was still good to paddle around with two friends and about six zillion purple jelly cadavers...but definitely one of those mornings when you look back from shore and wonder what the heck you were thinking...
Posted by: friendly at May 27, 2004 02:33 PMPeru is an excellent suggestion! On our last trip to the northern coastal area, Erica made me promise we’d go back and do the whole Machu Picchu deal. One of the guys here at work has a brother who runs a guide service in Cuzco. Perfect!
Posted by: Jimmie at May 27, 2004 02:33 PMThanks blakestah!
some dudes kiteboarded from the Farralones yesterday...
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2004/05/27/BAGDV6S72718.DTL
Posted by: tom at May 27, 2004 02:44 PM"Local sailors have long made single-handing their boats around these distant rocks a rite of passage. In 1967, famed distance swimmer Ted Erickson swam the traverse in 14 hours and 38 minutes -- without even wearing a wetsuit. His support boat captain had to scare off a shark with rifle shots only once."
Posted by: bagel at May 27, 2004 02:59 PMthings i like:
Posted by: e at May 27, 2004 03:09 PMjellybeans
glassy waves
funny shit
making out
friday afternoons
14 hours 38 minutes ---f#&% man what goes through your head during all that time ....bubble, bubble, bubble breath ...b,b,b,b......b,b,b,b.....
would Eddie GO?
Posted by: dude at May 27, 2004 03:11 PMI'm not sure if Eddie was such a cold-water maestro??
i seriously, really, cannot believe that he was in this water for 15 hours with NO wetsuit. Is that even physically possible? that's so fucking gnarly.
Posted by: e at May 27, 2004 03:14 PMgreat indo pics. as i'm finalizing my flights to indo today, I found them very appropriate!
i can also attest to the horrible treatment of women in many of the world's countries. and I have much, much respect for those women who are brave enough to endure the taunts, grabs, and stares. i've done my part as a "husband" on more than one occasion, but more memorable was a girl i traveled with in india who got so frustrated after being groped (on numerous occasions) that she took control of the situation and threw some uppercuts at the bastard!! the coward cowered and scurried away; more than humiliated and much less a man.
Posted by: rza at May 27, 2004 03:20 PMJimmy,
Peru is all good in August, so is Chile & Ecuador. And in all reality August isn't all that hot in Mexico, it's only HOT north of Jalisco and in Baja, its wet and humid in the south, but tolerable. Canada is great for surf in august, water is nice and its always inspiring, and Alaska is sweet too.
Posted by: Mexisurf at May 27, 2004 03:51 PMReality check,
Posted by: mexisurf at May 27, 2004 04:07 PMI'm sitting in a computer lab filled with middle school wannabe gangstas and I'm cranking bluegrass.... kinda surreal.
my feet are hot right now.
Posted by: j at May 27, 2004 04:42 PM15 hours in the water... thinking "chomp, chomp, chomp" the whole time. Insane. I'll take the 2 hour kite crossing thank you.
Ity bity teny tiny waves this morning. I resorted to the, omg, longboard. Gotta work on cross stepping... erh, more like running off the end of the board.
Now is the time to dread the weekends in Cruz. Joy. Oh well, at least I got a new 3/2 for the kind price.
Posted by: dano at May 27, 2004 05:13 PMnice dano..
i'm off to an afternoon of intense Hans Blix and the Inspectors insanity, bong rips, and the unkown...
Posted by: e at May 27, 2004 05:18 PMOccy

Posted by: dano at May 27, 2004 05:18 PMyeah Hans! when's the show E?
Posted by: luke at May 27, 2004 05:19 PMoccy's pretty good
Posted by: bagel at May 27, 2004 05:29 PMCurren

Posted by: bagel at May 27, 2004 05:34 PMok fine, Occy

Posted by: bagel at May 27, 2004 06:12 PMCoastal report for Thursday evening. Potential for something fun. Smoke a Jay small with a couple of peeps with good attitudes. Lindy was Lindy which can kill your desire to ever surf again (surfable but lame). Devil’s slide was smoother and larger. Looked like some guys were nabbing a few at the private pay-your-way place and more guys south of there. County Line small and bumpy but you could see the corduroy pattern starting to form. A few cars at Florida Isle but I didn’t climb the cliff to see.
Northwest Wind, please talk to your brother South Wind and ask him to lay low for a few days. SC cloudy but really mild.
Bojon, you have a beautiful baby! Hope your sleep/surf deprivation level is manageable. You are a lucky person.
Kaiser, I’m ready to serve as your personal (albeit amateur) photographer. Please send me an email so I can give you my home address. You need to know where to send the airline tickets. Ethan mentioned that you traveled with an entourage. . . masseuse, bartender, hair stylist, photographer, personal trainer, etc. Happy to join the team!
Posted by: Bruce at May 27, 2004 07:33 PMBruce, I do travel "posse-style" so you are welcome to join in the fun. However, I don't use a personal trainer, just for the record. Bartender, sure, why wouldn't I? Hair stylist, of course....
So, my jet should be touching down at HMB airport around 4:30 tomorrow. We will save a seat and some caviar for you. Make sure to bring you semi-gun since town is due to do off on Tuesday - about 8 ft. and clean as a reef girl's ass.
Yeah, I am guilty.....
Posted by: Kaiser at May 27, 2004 09:31 PMSorry for noticing this but dude in the last of e's pics left the barn door open
Posted by: at May 27, 2004 10:07 PMan 8 foot town swell?
anyone got a bridge for sale?
Posted by: at May 27, 2004 10:07 PMMy sources say 6-7 foot town swell, and you betta be dere Monday.
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