E's Surf Report: slack wind.. waves to be had

argh.. i didn't get out there this morning.. my moms returns to Philly so i enjoyed a leisurely breakfast with her instead. However, based on the current lack of wind at the beach and the smooth, inviting veneer of the sea-surface i'd say it's a definite go. Both weekend mornings it was blowy and gusty (and sunny!) but still surfable. I surfed yesterday it utter hacked phlegmy confusion.. but managed 4 or 5 legit down the line rides in only 40 minutes of water time. On saturday morning the Kelly's Cove crew were shralping and smacking lips and generally running roughshod all over the messy, thumping wind-swell juice.

soo.. this morning might be golden out there? any first hand reports?

surf. so fun! just gettin' out there and catching waves is a blast. It's also nice to just be on/at the beach. we're lucky.

in other ethan family news my pops scored his first hole in one! he's psyched. good one pops! A well-deserved accomplishment.

Eric posted a true "tale of the high seas" over the weekend.. check it out.

"niceness, ms. pacific ocean said no saturday night just after sunset about 30 nm offshore, between between monterey and cape san martin. my sailboat magic bus was dismasted in 30-35 kts wind as we were (rapidly) headed south in the 2004 coastal cup - bound for santa barbara. These winds that have apparently blown out all the standard beach breaks this weekend created spectacular conditions for ultralight sailboats, so spectacular that just after dark yesterday, after planing through a three wave set, with sheets of water flying to both sides, we took a gust that accelerated the boat to another level (20+ kts speed through the water on a 27 foot sailboat) before laying our rig flat with a bang. after half an hour of work setting the broken spar free to its grave at the bottom of the ocean, we headed ne to monterey under power of a 2 hp honda outboard motor, wind and seas on the beam. we (in the interest of keeping the boat light for max speed) were only carrying 2 gallons of fuel, and we were making about 2.5 kts over ground towards monterey, so we were unsure wether we had enough to get us there. we were in contact with coast guard through the night by radio, and through the niceness ethos observed by mariners, a 500ft car carrier diverted for a rondevous and in a hairy exchange at about 4 am yesterday was able to drop extra fuel. Turned out we didn't need it, as wind and seas abated as the night wore on and we approached shore, but I will never forget it, pulling along side a giant ship, recieving a heaving line as crew members took photos, after which they lowered a tin filled with gasoline on a line. usually you want to stay as far away from the shipping traffic as possible, this time it was nice to know they were out there and willing to lend a hand. we reached monterey harbor at about 8 am today unharmed except for the chunder scarred thoats of 2 of the four of us onboard and of course my poor lovely boat, missing her wings. I've done this race before, it is always a challenge in different ways. Its too bad that we are not enjoying the fading breeze and sunset in the sb channel right now, as I expected to be, but it is also a hell of a lot of fun to handle a 27 foot boat like a longboarder doing a drop knee cutback, on an open ocean swell 30 miles offshore. Sorry for the sailing story on a surfing blog but they're not really that different at heart and i love both."

i don't usually like to acknowledge the landlord. but.. this t-shirt is pretty funny (from fecalface.com)

Luke Chueh painting (from fecalface)

Yumiko Kayukawa

Andrew Schoultz

Slavin photo from so cal last weekend

drama on the high seas.....a good read.

who's the whimp in the wettie getting shacked? ain't most of SoCal in boardshorts about now?

Posted by: tom at June 14, 2004 09:43 AM

hahaa, my thoughts exactly re: the wetsuit.

Posted by: j at June 14, 2004 09:48 AM

i'd rather be toasty in the wetty than shiverin' but "cool" without one.

Posted by: at June 14, 2004 09:55 AM

grew up in so cal ---june can be frigid --- trunking comfort comences in July or August.

Posted by: old man at June 14, 2004 10:11 AM

it's tough for skinny people in the cold water. no natural insulation. I was frozen solid at this one place in central america while Lerm didn't even feel the cold at all.. I could only surf for about 25 minutes before i had to go in and try to warm up. I get cold even thinking about it now.

Posted by: e at June 14, 2004 10:35 AM

OB: out of town this am but a lunch report would be unnecessary anyway. What you really want is a Lerm Vegas Stripper Weekend Wedding Report. Lerm? Dish.

Great story, Eric. Ernest Hemingway has a saying about bullfighters being the only ones who live life "all the way to the top" but I think this can be applicable to waterfolk too.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 14, 2004 10:37 AM

i don't think i have ever been as cold as i was saturday afternoon, at a beautiful little cove somewhere down the highway 1. After 15 minutes of duck-diving i was off my board, holding my head in my hands and howling in pain. good lord!

but...still scored some fun punchy windswell, pretty big compared to what we've been seeing lately. At least blakestah's report looks promising...

Posted by: luke at June 14, 2004 10:38 AM

This question goes back a few days, but I seem to remember someone saying that for a summer beach house they'd pick Cardiff. Is that Cardiff, Wales? I'm going to the UK in October and was wondering if anyone has surfed the Gower coast and has any tips.......

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 14, 2004 10:44 AM

I think they meant cardiff, north county san diego. Which is a pretty questionable call if you ask me.

I have surfed Wales, but I was 15 and don't remember much except the tidal range was huge. Mostly beach breaks with endless tidal flat expanses. The bottom contours were really gradual. You could catch a wave on the outside, go left, let it close out, wait for the reform, go right, hit the close out, wait for the reform, go right again, same story, left, right.... reform bowl after reform bowl. Instead of catching a "left" you could catch a "left-right-right-left-right-left-left". Kinda interesting.

Get the Stormrider Guide to Europe. It has plenty of info on Wales. I think october might be a good bet, if the water hasn't gotten too cold by then.

Posted by: lewis at June 14, 2004 10:55 AM

good point, i've still got my winter 'rind' of fat that kept me warm down south a couple weeks back.

Posted by: j at June 14, 2004 10:56 AM

EPMD.. in the place to be...

To the average MC I'm known as The Terminator
Funky beat maker, new jack exterminator
Destroy an employ', when your rhymes are not void
Never sweatin your girl (Why P?) Cause she's a skeezoid
When I'm on the scene I always rock the spot
I grab the steel with the crown on top
In the beginnin -- I like to let my rhymes flow
and at twelve I press cruise control
Sit back and relax, let my rhymes tax
Maintain MC's while the Double E macks
Always calm under pressure, no need to act ill
Listen when I tell you boy, you gots to chill..

Posted by: e at June 14, 2004 11:07 AM

Thanks, Lewis. From what I gather, the wave riding season over there is much the same as ours. Just about 5 degrees colder in the water.

I was born on the Gower, and went to many of the beaches there when I was really little -- it's been a dream of mine to go back there and surf them, and it looks like it might just happen this year.....

Posted by: limevoodoo at June 14, 2004 11:26 AM

eric's tale of the high seas is quite the read! livin' it must have been an intense experience. adventure lives at sea while the masses in the coastal cities get stressed because their tall latte comes with whole milk when they ordered skimmed.

as for slurf...on Saturday...Kaiser, another bud, my lady, and i found some surprising fun in conditions that looked so bad i was prepared to bail. just goes to show what how much good peeps in the line-up contribute to the surfing experience. the only downer of the sesh was a slammed fin-box on Kaiser's board. bummer....but he handled it in fine "shit happens" fashion. goodonya, amigo.

s.s....nice reminder to Lerm! Lerm....we're waiting....

peace.

Posted by: ck at June 14, 2004 11:33 AM

comment on the fave books thing: i don't know if it is just the scarcity of surf centered novels or maybe just a matter of taste, but i picked up a copy of Captain Zero after numerous surfers recommended it and i think weisbecker's(?sp) writing style is terrible: verbose and circuitous. his pavones article in surfer's journal is the same. painful to read if you ask me. a little bit of flowery language is fine, but it seems like he's trying to pick the biggest word to prove he's not just a dumb surfer. anyways, i'm dissappointed. i was looking forward to reading as i drove down the pennisula in a couple of weeks. but i don't have room in my car for those big words.

Posted by: steamwand at June 14, 2004 11:53 AM

Luke is right. I was out Sunday at a cove off of Route 1 and my hands stung for the entire time I was out. The day before at Rockaway was pretty painless.

There must be some weird currents or something because the water at the cove was significantly clearer than at Rockaway as well.

Posted by: joe o at June 14, 2004 12:03 PM

I hear those little wetsuit vest's are good for some. Keeps the core a little warm, protects against sun and wind and provides that little wettie feeling when you lay down and paddle so your ribcage bone doesn't get sore.

Dunno how much they cost but I bet they are good for traveling since they probably pack well.

Posted by: tom at June 14, 2004 12:24 PM

an intermittant poster...more mittant today.

been reading and pondering things since e's
return from warm water...did the same thing.
'cept spent 5+ days on the outer banks of n.c.
not central america. the dialect of english made
a language barrier of sorts.

small waves (was chest high with nice a frames
one day) the rest waist>thigh> knee high BUT
74 degree water is some-thing NICE. so much
beach to be explored. if any one is heading that
way anytime.....drive nc 12 south....

after that trip it took me ten days of whining and
bitching about nw wind to get back in the groove....

so i grooved on down to santa cruz and surfed
an eastside beach break with a dozen new friends
yesterday. water not warm at all but the guys in
the water...were actually pretty mellow. sure it
was most definitely their peak or beach or whatever...
but i got a dozen or so gave away a lot and was
not dropped in on at all. there is a LOT of surf
to be had 'round that windy corner.....bring a good
attitude and ease into things. don't paddle into a
pack. act like you have some sense and it seems
everyone will.

next windy horrible stretch of no surf we should
bust out the "send blakestah out of town fund"....
(no offense blakestah)

but damn if your leaving does not ALWAYS bring
waves? or is it just me?

send your contributions to.....

kidding.....

oh and an afternoon surf will most likely NOT
happen...my window is whistling....(west facing
office window in the inner richmond) she whistles;
the surf sucks. sorry to whomever was hoping....

Posted by: korewin at June 14, 2004 12:29 PM

Late-morning weekday sessions are no longer times of solitude and serenity---skool's out for summer. But a morning of light wind left the ocean looking sweet from the hill overlooking Pacifica. Still small periods, and a rough paddle that had me stymied except at the longboarders' end of the beach, but pretty smooth water once you got out there, and plenty of size for my apetite--considerably more than anytime this past week, I think. Mostly closeouts mid-beach, but useful shape at the ends. The kids huddled in a bunch and jockeyed for the best peaks, but there were plenty of scraps to be salvaged away from the pack. I'd moved my rear fin slightly forward in the box ("lok box"), and I *think* it helped to lessen the feeling I'd been getting that the back of my board was sort of stuck in the water.

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 14, 2004 12:51 PM

tom, i've used those wetsuit vests in mexico, worked pretty good for me for exactly the reasons you mention. but my arms would get chilly wearing the vest when the winds came up.

steamwand - i have a similar perception of weisbecker's writing. i've heard the same criticism of daniel duane, but i enjoyed the writing in caught inside much more.

kaiser: sucks about the finbox! did it happen during one of your superman drops?

sf-sc challenge takers: on my way back from a fun but inconsistent session on the west side on sat, i noticed that several of the coves & even a few of the beachbreaks in san mateo county seemed to be working. not sure if that's still the case as the south is almost gone. but it had me weighing the benefits of shorter drive/saving gas vs. the risk of running into the landlord ...

Posted by: loon at June 14, 2004 12:53 PM

Posted by: late night rager at June 14, 2004 12:53 PM

just got back from la jolla this morning

newspaper said the water was 70 but as up here, it's erratic from spot to spot. nice in any case! i wore a springsuit - fun little longboard waves in PB both days - and trunked it for whomp sessions. with a little wind, a skinnybones like me gets shivery.

picked up a new stick. 7-6 "real rusty" ie shaped by rusty not one of his other shapers. rounded pin, good for big OB - pretty fired up. haven't had a new board in a while...

while browsing boards at mitch's skip frye rolled in to pick up a couple of blanks. also saw a lot of joel tudor's boards there, interesting variety of stuff...

a"fish"ionados take a look:

http://www.signonsandiego.com/sports/20040525-9999-lz1s25surfn.html

Posted by: paul b at June 14, 2004 12:55 PM

Isn't she sweet? From the secret spot south of san francisco.

Posted by: Bruce at June 14, 2004 01:05 PM

Ayyeeeee, I did indeed bust up my fish this weekend. Loon, as much as I wish it was a superman drop, I was actually doing some "real" surfing when it happened.

It was one of those freak things that you just have to accept. I was going right (backside) and I went up to the lip to bust a little floater over a section and as I went weightless on the lip, I didn't control my board very well and it got swept from beneath my feet. With nothing to stand on, my board flipped over in the flat of the wave and I fell right now. Fin = busted!

I have a really nice tri-fin set up on my back as a result. You can really see the fin angles!

Ran to the car, reloaded and got back in the game. Surprisingly fun sessions Friday and Saturday even though it was hacked as shit. This week is sounding positive! Let's hope it pans out.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 14, 2004 01:06 PM

Thank you, steamwand. You're the first one out there that seems to have noticed. Something about that weisbecker guy that creeped me out since the first articles on him showed up in Surfer. Though not completely without talent, the guy seems to thrive on the whole dangerous drug dealer armed thugs/conflict angle, no matter what. Never seems to have outrun his old drug running days, probably a rush he's never quite matched again or something. His take on Pavones (and all of CR for that matter) is a perfect example, leave it to him to find the danger and menace in such a mostly peaceful place. His little flights of flowery prose and hamfisted hemingway attempts don't make up for it either, he just lives in a world I wouldn't want to live in. I'm surprised Stacey Peralta actually wants to make his captain zero movie (tho I'd be even more surprised if Peralta ends up pulling off directing actors).

Posted by: cadaver at June 14, 2004 01:09 PM

Bruce, some sweet shots of the area over the weekend. Always nice to check them out on a rather slow Monday. Still, I must be adverse to your lens or something.....

CK, I'll have her back in no time! Just a little superficial wound. Some resin and a little filler, I'll be all set.

*************************************************
With much anticipation, I would like to point out to you TV watching-sluts out there (ME!!!), the long awaited summer release of The North Shore series on FOX debuts tonight. I can't wait to see how bad they paint the "North Shore" picture tonight.

Since the OC is not on, I will have a full recap tomorrow of the cheese factor.
**************************************************

Lerm, I want to see some pictures ASAP!!!!

Posted by: Kaiser at June 14, 2004 01:15 PM

yo ho niceness. first things first, eric's story is sick! especially with its safe and happy ending, it was an epic adventure on the high seas. way to handle that shit, eric.

otherwise, tom, i missed your inquiry last friday about Strong Island... I cannot claim to be a local anywhere out there, but this will be my second summer / Cane season on the East End... so I surf anywhere on that wide expanse of beach from East Hampton to Montauk... Ditch (which amusingly had 30 people trying to surf the 1 inch windswell this weekend), or TC's when it's good... As for surf shops, Equilibrium in Amagansett or Air&Speed in Montauk... but like I said, I'm officially nonlocal. I actually got heckled at a restaurant this weekend, which was funny and sad.

Anyway... um... final phish tour opener in 3 nights? Let's get the show on the road!

Posted by: jake at June 14, 2004 01:17 PM

Bruce, was that shot today? Kids were doing that, no doubt for the first day of a surf camp, in the beach whitewater when I was there this morning. I may have walked right by you.

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 14, 2004 01:19 PM

no war.. just surf

Posted by: e at June 14, 2004 01:23 PM

I'll say it again cuz it should be noted, if you can find "Playing Doc's Games" by William Finnegan- he writes about Ocean Beach and surfing with understanding and intelligence, a lack of pretension and totally absorbing. I have a dog-eared photocopy of it and have to re-read it now and again..

>published in The New Yorker in 2 parts (vol 68 #27 August 24, 1992 pg 34-59 with the second part in vol 68 #28 August 31,1992 pg 39-58)

Posted by: cadaver at June 14, 2004 01:27 PM

Outer Banks NC. Korewin-
I am going to South Nags Head in August and thought of bringing a board, I need an excuse to get away and have some fun. Any suggestionson if I should ? Did you bring or rent/borrow a board? I have never been but from what I have been reading there is little swell unless winter or Hurricane season. Any thoughts from will help.

Posted by: mjs at June 14, 2004 01:30 PM

cadaver- I've got those New Yorkers. Be glad to send you a new copy.

PP on Sat. was uncrowded, clean and you know the rest.

Posted by: at June 14, 2004 01:42 PM

mjs, you should definitely bring a board to surf. the beach breaks on the outer banks can be awesome... but of course you will be dealing with summertime Atlantic conditions, so it's a pretty even chance to score or get skunked. well it's not really even, and by "score" i mean have the option to paddle out into something kind of fun. renting may be a good option... that way you don't pay the airlines for the privilege to ding your board... there are surf shops out there, I recommend (Surfing is a) Natural Art Surf Shop in Hatteras (less than an hour south of Nags Head). In August, you could score a Cane... and those are some seriously juicy, fun waves!!

New board stokedom... paul b, your new board sounds rad... i may be ordering a board to replace a 6'6 rounded pin 'fake' Rusty I recently surfed for a few weeks and loved! I just called the O'Neill shop in SC, and may be ordering a 6'6, 2 and 3/8, 19 and 1/2 rounded pin to pick up on a one week roadtrip to Cali around July 4th. go surf!

Posted by: jake at June 14, 2004 01:48 PM

Cool Jake.

I was just looking to hear stories of the places I used to surf. Or see if you knew anyone I used to know.

I mainly surfed more to the western end. Long Beach, Lido and Rbt. Moses. Gilgo a few times.

There was some "local" vibe at certain places but as you know.....I never paid attention.

Posted by: tom at June 14, 2004 01:59 PM

Klooless- Naw, it was Sunday morning around 10:00. I was shooting from the deck of a secret place that sells tacos. Uskay and Marcus Muscleus were out there making the best of the chop. I have a feeling Superman was there too. Gotta go back through the photos and see if there are any guys with fin marks on their back.

This morning I did the zoo/chalet run. Saw a few peeps suiting up but the lighting wasn't right (damn mist and fog) so I went to work. Yuch!

Cadaver- that article on OB is absolutely dope. I've been sharing with with my pals since a pen pal (you?) sent me a copy.

Eric- great story. I think about when wife and I lived aboard a 35' and used to get beat from time to time rounding T.I. and hitting the slot or poking our amateur noses out the Gate. Never had a knock-down, but that's some scary shit.

Posted by: Bruce at June 14, 2004 02:01 PM

jake - was out at ditch on saturday and saw the same mass of people paddeling into some pathetic tiny windswell swell....tough few weeks in the east (let's hope for an early hurricane season). not a local out there either but i do have my local surfshop.....mainbeach on montauk highway in wainscott is great...good guys, they always take care of me. i can't beleive you got heckeld in montauk of all places...what do they have to heckle about? hope you gets some nice east coast hurricanes this season and check out mainbeach.

late night rager...please post more of those pics...works killin' me and all pics help.

Posted by: kt at June 14, 2004 02:07 PM

got wet again this weekend in the WM...western marin. good times in the slop.

in other news...have any of you peeps been watching the ASP events on OLN? Yeah, unfortunately you gotta have cable. But if you have it, you should check it out. Saw the Snapper Rocks event, and recently, the Bells Beach contest...I think Teahupoo is next. good stuff.

cheers.

Posted by: jdz at June 14, 2004 02:16 PM

Cadaver - perceptive stuff.

I've had a tough time with Weisbecker's style too. His accounts of his own 500-yard noseride barrels etc. in Captain Zero were particularly grating. That said, I ripped right through the book, where Duane, though stylistically superior, lost me a little in the botanical passages all over the second half of Caught Inside.

Finnegan's piece set the bar high. my final act before leaving a New York-based media conglomerate a few years back was to have the corporate library hunt down and fax me 2 copies of that 40-odd page story. Hell on the fax machine, but I still got 'em. Unnamed poster who has the goods, you'd do the surf literature world a great service if you could get Finnegan's meisterpiece scanned into digital form and nailed to the inside of a server (perhaps E's) for all us would-be mighties to look on and despair.

Peralta note: John Milius (Apocalypse Now, Big Wednesday) says he thinks Stacy has the right stuff, for what it's worth.

Posted by: redworm at June 14, 2004 02:21 PM

kt, i can't believe there's another person reading this OB report that saw that silly (but stoked?) group surfing micro Ditch on Saturday... good stuff! I know Main Beach surf shop and have also found good vibes there... as for swell, we have a southerly windswell building right now! i'm hitting the jersey shore tomorrow... if you've got work, try long beach when you get off or something. i believe there's a bump in the water though.

jdz, just saw the Bells show on OLN... so sweet! First of all, PERFECT Bells, sick offshore groomed perfection... and although I know Blakestah recently dissed on ASP coverage... you gotta appreciate watching the best surfers in the world go up against each other... Parko vs. AI semi #1, Taj v. Occy semi #2... Slates v. Pat O'Connell in the round before... awesome coverage, definitely recommended niceness.

Posted by: jake at June 14, 2004 02:27 PM

jake - after leaving ob three years ago this i live for e's report to keep me sane from the east coast flatness..and sane from work as well. anyway i did hear there was gonna be some waves tomorrow. i do surf jersey a lot( south nj) but try to get out to montauk as much as possible....rockaway if no other choice.

anyway, wiah i didn't work 5 days a week but i hope you score some decent waves tomorrow in nj. maybe see you soon in the water somewhere in the east. i'm a big fan of beach lane (east hampton) and of course montauk when it's good...oh yeah, can't forget nj.....love those beach breaks when it's big, fast and heavy.

Posted by: kt at June 14, 2004 02:39 PM

Jakester, when you coming out? I am planning on a Del Norte and Humboldt county (homeland) excursion for July 4th weekend but would love to meet up with you.

Bruce, I actually didn't have my cape on Sunday. Only Saturday at said spot.

On the OLN/Fuel TV tip, if you rock a TIVO, you are hooked solid with surf related shows for eternity. I just checked out the Mavs contest from this year on OLN. Cool but the waves were pretty small for Mavs. Made it look like an ex-large OB day.

Posted by: Kaiser at June 14, 2004 02:40 PM

Posted by: late night rager at June 14, 2004 02:52 PM

yeah, that would be awesome if someone would scan that new yorker article. i love the new yorker, but haven't been a subscriber (or surfer in sf) since 1992. i guess i wasn't a very well-traveled or enlightened 16 yr. old. pp was inconsistently fun on sat., but not uncrowded by any standard i know of. please let the wind take a breather so i don't have to drive anymore.

Posted by: steamwand at June 14, 2004 03:06 PM

Thanks redworm-- Milius just might be right, I guess just time will tell. The surf-filim catagory/genre is like this unclimbed peak, which is sort of surprising considering the intense inherent excitement in surfing. Yes ! I too am totally for the webposting of that Finnegan article, he did raise the bar for surf writing (I wonder what happened to him?) And with due respects to Mr. Weisbecker, I'm relieved to know I'm not the only one out there who isn't wooed by the lure of sleeping in boardshorts with one eye half open and a gun under my pillow. Somehow firearms and surfboards just don't go together-- but that's just me.

Posted by: cadaver at June 14, 2004 03:20 PM

I heard about the finnegan ob article a couple of years ago and tried (not super hard I guess) to get a copy - needless to say I failed. I second redworm it would be sweet if somebody could scan it and post it. I thought caught inside was pretentious and kind of silly, but I read it twice anyway.

e, ck, sharkbait, jake, bruce etc, thanks for appreciating my story. once the mast came down it wasn't really that gnarly, mostly just cold and wet. the transaction with the ship was surreal. before the mast came down it was as gnarly as anything i've ever experienced on a sailboat. ridiculous speed with control - until something broke anyway.

I'm going to get heckled by some sailing friends for sure. I think we were the only boat to break its mast in the race this year, and only a couple of other boats dropped out.

Posted by: eric at June 14, 2004 03:26 PM

You can order back copies of the New Yorker.

The article is very very long to scan - 30 or 35 pages in total across two New Yorker editions - Aug 24 and 31 1992.

Re: the outer banks in August. If you are lucky a front will blow through and you will get an afternoon of chest to shoulder high waves. That's if you are lucky - one afternoon of decent waves. You can rent all kinda boards there. I rented a 6'2" for a week and rode it once. What a waste.

Posted by: blakestah at June 14, 2004 03:32 PM

An onslaught of megalomaniacal rapture
A muslix of tetrahedral consternation
Flamboyant utterances wax and explode
Threadbare mellifluence tattered and worn
Reaching out for reconnaissance
Stretching out for significance
Resting on radial tendrils of conformity
Flux and vibrate

Posted by: e at June 14, 2004 03:47 PM

Posted by: Tux at June 14, 2004 03:58 PM

that's hilarious...is that animation or a real film clip?

Posted by: paul b at June 14, 2004 04:05 PM

ok, who's down to split the cost of back-ordering some new yorkers? i'll make the copies...or even scan them into pdfs and email them 'round. i am a devout new yorker reader and this article sounds sweet. and i was barely reading surfing mags in '92, probably still looking at pictures and wondering "how'd he do that? why doesn't bolinas ever look like that? when can i get a real board, dad?"

Posted by: luke at June 14, 2004 04:18 PM

if you heads get the article.. i'll post it up on E's.

I read it last year and thought it was pretty cool. It was interesting to note how some of Doc R.'s observations about specific sandbars along OB don't hold true today.. but.. i guess the article was written about a decade ago. Cool to get inside the head of the legendary Doc Renneker.

Posted by: e at June 14, 2004 04:23 PM

I'm pretty sure Mr Doof will offer up his copy for scanning if someone trustworthy and fast does it.

I'm not sure I ever want to get inside Doc's head.

FWIW, the sandbars change a lot from year to year, but they were a LOT different before the 97/8 El Nino. OB used to hold up to 13@17 before the next set of WAY WAY OUT bars broke, now it holds only about 10@17. I remember some SICK 12@17 swells racking the outer bars.

Posted by: blakestah at June 14, 2004 04:30 PM

I'm eager to see it, so I'm happy to split the cost, luke (I checked out academic resources and they have only '99 and later).

Bruce, I was exactly there until 9:40 yesterday; you might have a green-railed-egg-riding kook going over the falls in the background of one of your shots.

Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 14, 2004 04:30 PM

Those NYorker articles, when I read them back in '92, were hugely supporting to me at the time. I was getting pounded during the winters and wondering...: What's wrong with me, I'm such a wimp. Then I read those and realized I was not alone. That, and I bought a Wil Jobzen Twinzer with some length 7'6" and started making some headway. thanks for the memories. -Jack

Posted by: Jack at June 14, 2004 04:33 PM

outer banks and what not....

i agree with blake....do not take a board to the
outer banks. while the natural art tip is a good
one, if you are going to be in south nags head,
go to whalebone surrf shop. there is one at milepost
10....(if that makes no sense it will when you are there).
they have a lot of boards some to rent. look for jim
vaughn(the owner) cool guy. avoid the surly gremlins
that work there. also vitamin sea surf shop is good.

there are TONS of used boards on the outer banks.
for august i would look for a longboard. unless there
is a freak groundswell (which DOES happen) you will
just want to have something to chase the ripples with.

last year in folly beach, sc i rented a bic 8'6" and rode
it for 3 days in waist high mushy stuff and had a ball.

save the cash on the boards from here and go to
awful arthur's in kdh or quagmire's in kdh. great food
great beer.

also check out the RIDICULOUS monster trucks
that are everywhere in eastern n.c. mostly virginians driving
them.

too weird.

blakestah�how long will you be gone?
just trying to plan my surfing in the next week.....

Posted by: korewin at June 14, 2004 04:43 PM

Oh hell...I'll scan my copies although I'm a little sensitive about copyright infingement.

I've got mixed emotions about the articles (expose really). Best article on surfing I've read. Great story arc. Best article on surfing in San Francisco for sure. Really gives you the feel of the time and place. But it was the end of an era. Coincidence or not, the onslaught began right after it was published. Within a few year the surfing population grew exponentially and the provincialism and small crowds that went with it were gone forever. Alot of people, me included, resented Finnegan's article and partially blamed the new attention on him and legend-in-his-own-mid Mark Renneker. Add to the mix self-promoter Bob Wise and Clark's idiotic Mavericks revelation to the world and the deal was sealed.

Give me a few days to scan it. E-I'll scan them as fairly hi-res jpgs and email them to you. You can res them down if you want.

Posted by: kdalle at June 14, 2004 04:55 PM

Looks like there is plenty of interest in this article. Funny how literary everyone on this board gets when the surf is small... Anyways, its $9 per issue to back order them, plus shipping. If someone has a copy they are willing to lend out (Mr Doof?) that would be sweet...gimme a shout. Otherwise, i'm going to the SF Public Library! Hell yeah!

In case he reads this blog, i wanna say whats up and thanks to the dude whom i joined for a post-surf skimboard sesh in san mateo on saturday. Tons of fun- especially with the shoulder-high, sucking, churning shorebreak!

Posted by: luke at June 14, 2004 05:00 PM

Small? The surf is not small.... No, no, no. On the contrary. It might be windy, yes. Small, no.

Ok, gone surfing...

Posted by: Kaiser at June 14, 2004 05:12 PM

surf? not small? ooouuu scooby? *ears prick up*

Thanks kdalle. i'm much happier spending $25 on, ya know, food and shelter and whatnot. I'm very interested to read about a time which i was around for but too young to understand. i do remember OB as the biggest surf on earth...and i was only allowed to paddle out there in the summer!

Posted by: luke at June 14, 2004 05:26 PM

You guys are great, I started to look for that article and failed. Will chip in for Luke back ordering, or whatever works. Cheers,

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 14, 2004 05:37 PM

The finnegan article is excellent, I got it this past January from the San Francisco Public Library, they have all the NEw Yorkers, it wasn't even on microfiche. I think it's on the 4th floor, go to the reference librarian, and just mention, "surfing, Ocean Beach," and it'll pop up on the puter.

Interesting comments about Captain Zero, I saw it at a bookstore and opened it up to a random page, and my immediate impression was that it was too ladened with muchisimo, a bunch of ego crap lacking in niceness. I'm glad I didn't read it. He lives in Costa Rica, a guy I know surfed with him down there and said the latter description is accurate in real life as well.

A book on surfing I didn't like much was "On a Wave" by Thad Ziolkowski...the best thing about it is the cover. It doesn't offer much insight, and the writing style is much more staggered, his thoughts aren't drawn out and developed. There is one great scene when a surfing crew is driving north for a competition, and they're all huddled into the back of the van saying how they feel like a bunch of migrant workers.

And, surfing this weekend was great at OB, I couldn't believe it was so empty in the sunny late a.m., as there were plenty of waves, five others out, and calm enough to see the water smoothly get sucked up the face with easy fun drops. I got worked this morning, paddled and paddled going nowhere, my friend's wetsuit got torn open, for just a bunch of necessary and still fun mush. I saw one guy on the way outside make one drop and a quick backside right.

Oh yeah, and thanks for the image of those ladies dancing, it goes well with my Pacifico, even though they look like Buds.

Posted by: hee hee at June 14, 2004 05:56 PM

i've gotta speak up a bit about capn zero. his writing style is not polished, but the raw adventure is inspiring and fun. though he does not compare to thompson, his story has a loathing in las veganesque flare

i don't look at life in the same kiss my ass if you don't like it my way, i still appreciate the journey and descriptions.

will be on the lookout for finnegan...

will sacrifice a chicken to the swell gods tonight for later in the week surf.

Posted by: gvibe at June 14, 2004 07:10 PM

steamwand- Pal Rich and I were out at PP on Saturday. Was that you getting all the waves?

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Hey, I only posted that last comment once. Is this a techno-joke from Ethan?

I told her there was NO PRESSURE but Sharkbait is working on the next installment of stupid stories about men.

It's really OK if she doesn't MEET HER DEADLINE, but Clark Kent at the Daily Planet (you know who) is going to be pissed.

Every bikini shot deserves a reality fix from an insightful young woman. But Sharky, you have to admit that guys are entertaining (albeit irritating). Kinda' keeps you on your toes, right?

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