killer morning.
Did the drive and found a few olas. OB looked mangled and raw. The SW winds had taken the otherwise groovy windswell hostage, creating an uninspired surf-scene. Soo.. southbound. Around a few coastal bends and into that bucolic valley of eucalyptus, raw-sewage, short-sighted development, majestic mountains, inbreeding(?), liberal-hatin’, SUV drivin’, chaw-chewin’, wannabee rednecks, friendly peeps like Yuskei, and a brand-spankin’ new parking lot! Oh yeah! Soo. The winds blew side/offshore at the cove of consequential close-outs. The rising sun cast fresh beams of morning light onto the mountain-side to the south. A semi-threatening, grey-black sky hung over the outer-water and contrasted with the brilliant blue sky above the little coastal burg. A few rainbows formed to the west. Seals snorted and dogs mindlessly fetched tennis balls… loving every minute. The waves cruised in with agreeable consistency. A chunky, head-high set of 4 or 5 would roll in every 7 minutes or so. Between these sets were blurpy, smaller, workable ‘tweener waves. Most of my more enjoyable rides were just drops and high-line races along the about-to-closeout walls. I caught one semi-legit left were I pumped and managed a few bottom-turn/top-turn combos. The best part of the session was the total solitude. A posse formed to the south, and a few stragglers worked it up north, leaving to the whole middle section empty save me. It was super refreshing to deal solely with the ocean. No jockeying or mind-games with other surfers, no pressure to surf well to “look good” for other surfers, no thoughts of, “wow, that guy is catching choke waves and I’m getting skunked.” Just a personal interaction with the swell and wind, water and current.
Saturday Lerm and I ventured way way down south to Pleasure Point. We caught 3 or 4 soul-gratifying, glassy, groundswell, pointbreak peelers in the morning fog before the east-side homeboys paddled out and shut down our fun. 6 or 7 tough guys did there bullying best to “regulate” first peak. Yelling and eyeballing and the rest of it. Soo.. Lerm and I were left with the scraps, leftovers and wide-swingers… which were still fun as all hell.. Maybe a thousand surfers strung between Sewers and Shark’s cove. Many without wetsuits. A few of the bully-boys were fucking KILLING IT at our little peak. It was fun to watch, even though internally you’re hoping that they fall and cut themselves on their fins and have to get out of the water…. Or something.. anyway.. surf.. go get it.
A few Bruce photos from the last few days
mornin' souljahs.
Posted by: j at June 28, 2004 10:37 AMdroplets on the glassy surface
Posted by: long board louie at June 28, 2004 10:42 AMrainbow in the sky
offshores blowing
posse forming
my oh my oh my
nice e. sounds like the next few days might shape up to be a little better.
a few quotes from saturday's session at pp.
"It's your wave man. burn this guy. burn him."
that was me getting burned.
"I can already tell there's a bunch of assholes out here."
"It's a fucking comedy show"
"Hey, there's some good longboarding waves down there."
classic.
Posted by: lerm at June 28, 2004 11:06 AMphil macca (sarge photo)

Posted by: e at June 28, 2004 11:08 AMdrove south sunday, got some ok small waves, but OB looked surprisingly clean and fun on my way back through around noon. should have stayed in town for once.
Posted by: bbr at June 28, 2004 11:09 AMWhy travel to S.C. when OB was throwing glassy head high waves on Sunday ... afternoon even. 'Til about 2 on Sunday, I surfed fresh, glassy waves with not too many peeps and NO attitude. Avoid S.C. when at all possible. Always checking the blog, just thought I'd ring in. Later
Posted by: obsurfer at June 28, 2004 11:11 AMI drove up this morning from SC, E. You might have considered checking a bit further south where it deep and cold and sharky. It was looking clean and bigger.
Today's reminder to surf safe. 1.5" further north and my buddy would have lost an eye on Sunday. Fortunately it only meant 8 stitches, a black eye, and a lot of grief from his wife. Is it mean to make your best friend pose for pics in front of the ER while he bleeds all over the place? Still smiling, though. . . just a niceness kind of guy.

Posted by: Bruce at June 28, 2004 11:25 AMoffshore rainbow cove. Cool lighting, decent shoulder, good stuff
Posted by: V70T5 at June 28, 2004 11:28 AMYeap, the SC pains run heavy. Gotta love the SC Clown Posse throwing vibe. What was it like 2-4 ft down there? Nice and meaty for the groms down there.
At least we don't get this shit up here in winter. Or at least you will never see them paddle out.
I too was gonna make the drive on both Saturday and Sunday. Bailed on both days. Instead, got 3 sessions locally and had a good time. Went without booties for the first time all year. Love it except when your foot slips and you pull your groin. Not good.
Blakestah is back! Blakestah is back! Good waves commeth!
Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 11:30 AMBruce-
Posted by: no one at June 28, 2004 11:37 AMI was suiting up just as your buddy came out of the water. 6am and blood in the water--tough way to start a Sunday. He had an incredibly friendly attitude for someone who'd just been dropped in on and got the worst of someone else's carelessness. I don't know if it'll make him feel any better, but he didn't miss much after he left--crowds increased and swell became less consistent.
Thanks, no one. Judging from E's experience, one would expect the groms to scream at him for creating a chum line. I don't get it, though. I surf the other side of town all the time and very rarely get grom grief. Wasn't it Bjon Borg who screamed at line judge when he was a kid? His mom locked up his tennis racket for a month and he never acted out again. Are the parents of these groms oblivious?
Has everyone visited santacruzlineup.com? I met the photographer yesterday. . . real nice guy. Some of the photos are killas, especially the landscapes and wildlife.
BTW- I took hundreds of photos of the woodies on the warf parade. Check the site tomorrow and there will a whole new page with nothing but these totally bitchin' old cars. I'm a sucker for a cool woody, anyone else?
Posted by: Bruce at June 28, 2004 12:01 PMAnyone want to head to west OZ, Bali, Maldives or the like today?

Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 12:07 PMwelcome back db! you didn't miss any waves around here, in fact it looks like ob was waiting for your return to get decent again.
mierda mar was still working about the same as e described above as i left at 11:15. nothing special out there, but at least the wind is helping create surfer-friendly patterns out of our summertime lumpenmush.
Posted by: loon at June 28, 2004 12:12 PMhow about south oz.. looks like it's getting hammered. Bells beach. 50 year storm. (100 year storm??). where's Bodhi?
Posted by: e at June 28, 2004 12:13 PMe
ever wonder what sc and other vibe surfers get reincarnated as? I figger barking sea elephants, while the burnee's get to be...the landlord. I sort of understand why they dickhead their breaks, but they should identified as such when
Posted by: banjo at June 28, 2004 12:16 PMtraveling ("any palos verdes surfers in the lineup? Ah the crew from the blue suv that's getting trashed in the parking lot. Welcome to the other side of the coin, and our cops laugh too"). Something like that.
Agreed, the cove of consequential closeouts was a hoot this morning. I was one of the folks on the far north end. The wind was having trouble making up its mind, blowing straight offshore until about 7:30, then oneshore, and eventually settled on sideshore for awhile. Super fun waves.
I was curious if anyone knows what happened to that crazy house that used to be where the new lot is? The one that always had a keg on the porch and like 4 rusting cameros on jack stands out front? Hopefully they sold of their own free will, it'd suck if Pacifica snatched the house out from under them for what must have been one of many code violations in there.
Posted by: wrybread at June 28, 2004 12:18 PME, check your email.
Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 12:23 PMHey Loon, where were you? I just left the same secret spot. Hope you got some rides...my mojo was WAY off. .. crowd dynamics befuddle me, and was totally chickening off waves that normally I'd just piledrive over and not care whether I landed them or not. Arr sorry to complain I'm just annoyed with myself. On the plus side I've never been so close to a pelican. Beautiful day.
OB: looks great for kiteboarding! Windsurfing? Waist-6 foot blowout. Sunny w/ thick fog on the horizon, maybe a killer sunset tonight.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 28, 2004 12:25 PMprolly be a few waves there on the arvo session too.
Posted by: tom at June 28, 2004 12:34 PME, I think maybe the SC vibe is reduced for (excuse me, Bruce) us mature types; I surfed three mornings on PP (don't know the break nickname, and don't want to get anyone mad, but a place with mostly shortboarders right off steps carved into the bluff) last week and got very little vibe even though I was on a funboard and even though I am of course an oblivious kook. After I ate it on a wave to avoid running into someone who'd dropped in, one guy pretty mildly pointed out that it was easier "over there"; but if that even counts as vibe it was pretty mild. Still, it wasn't fun to battle for position and stuff, and the best times were sharing first-light waves with just one other surfer.
Yesterday at Lindy was GREAT (for me) from dawn until 9:30. ZILLIONS of rides, knee to shoulder mostly, not perfect waves but plenty of fun, and it was easy to avoid the crowds. I got in more fun (and learning) than all four SC sessions combined. Plus the paddle was a good workout (if you rode the mush inside, as I did once in a while) without being frustrating. All around, YAY!
Bruce, what exactly happened to your friend?
Posted by: Klooless Kook at June 28, 2004 12:36 PMKlooless, WHO ARE YOU CALLING MATURE? (pretend anger) But you're probably right. What gets me are the pretty young girls who smile at me sympathetically when I suit up. Imagine, surfing at YOUR age (I look pretty old with all the gray hair). I just scream at the groms "give me shit and I'll throw my false teeth at you!"
Don't want to be a blog hog, so I'll refer you to the Wipeout Stories page for Rich's big adventure.
http://www.surfhumor.com/Wipeout%20Stories.htm
Posted by: Bruce at June 28, 2004 12:47 PMI heard it was a veritable sandstorm here. I bodysurfed about 200-300 waves per day, all 1-2 feet being generous, on Tybee Island. Water temp was perfect. Now I'm back and I went to see how my test riders were doing, and none of them had ridden my boards in 2 weeks! Now I have no boards and it is rideable.
Posted by: blakestah at June 28, 2004 01:07 PMworkin' the small waves

Posted by: e at June 28, 2004 01:08 PM
Posted by: e at June 28, 2004 01:09 PManyone hear about the-man-in-the-grey-suit at lindy last night. I was there super late at sunset suiting up and this guy came over and said that there was a sighting and a-lot of people cleared out (and warned me not to go out)
Posted by: V70T5 at June 28, 2004 01:40 PMI went in anyway-empty line-up-had a great time of it too.
I saw 5 sharks at OB yesterday.
Vicious ones with large, sharp, pointy teeth!
Posted by: blakestah at June 28, 2004 02:04 PMSo I'm not going to be a blog hog? But I gotta share another story. On Sunday my friend Ken was picking up a board at a ranch near town and took me with him. Out there under the trees and surrounded by horses I got introduced to Vince Broglio who is known for surfing larger waves and beautiful glass jobs. He is really a friendly and relaxed person, although I wouldn't want to drop in on him... another guy with zero percent body fat. Here's a pic of him goofing around at a secret spot near HMB.
Woodies, bikinis, a little swell, and the opportunity to meet a legend. Pretty cool weekend.

Posted by: Bruce at June 28, 2004 02:08 PMdamn

Posted by: e at June 28, 2004 02:13 PMbruce never worry about dropping in on vince. he'll almost always have the drop on you first.
high tide morning swell
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at June 28, 2004 02:41 PMon it before it gets low
pump,glide,flow, where bro?
Did anyone watch the surfline vids of a crazy crew surfing at the Wedge? It reminds me of a fighter taking straight on shots to the face and saying, "Come on. Is that all you got?"
Posted by: Dennis at June 28, 2004 03:00 PMMarch, 2004
RECKLESS ABANDON
hey ss: i was a bit south of crespi, stayed mostly in between the packs north & south of me. for a brief time i was sitting 6-10 yards inside of a lone woman surfer on a shortboard, might that have been you? if so, saw you charging for at least one set wave, looked like you had it until a gust pushed you back...
seemed like many of the waves were cousins of mushouts -- they often had nicely peaking-tops, but the troughs were disappearing. wonder if sideshore winds contribute to that?
definitely thinking about the other sea creatures out there lately. saw 2 boards with the anti-landlord zebra paint on the bottom, and a big grey seal on the inside today, plus lots of birds working just outside the surfline. i surfed what will probably be my last session until after sept at lake bobo on sunday. glad i don't live near there, must be tempting in august with a good late season south rollin ...
Posted by: loon at June 28, 2004 03:50 PMLoon, how was Bobo? Thought about it on Sat. but checked Tennessee Point instead. BTW, the Coffey is back so if you want to give it a go, just grab it from me next time I see you in the water.
As for the fin at Da Mar, kinda sketchy. I hear that they cruise out at Pedro Point all the time and fisherman always see them. So, I am not surprised that someone would see one near the break.
If you can't deal with the occasional visit, don't go surfing!
Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 04:07 PM3to5: Not like I'm gonna be surfin' around Senor Broglio anyway! You surf with Aggro-Doler too? What a lethargic Lane lot lizzard he is! (snicker) I'm giving him loads of crap now. . . I tell him he only surfs when his personal photographer shows up (that would be me).
Posted by: Bruce at June 28, 2004 04:10 PMFound a big pinniped last week on the beach at Manor, between the busted stairs and the RV park. 2 bites out of him. It's probably still down there. Took photos but I dunno how to post 'em. You'd likely not want to see them anyway, it's imprinted on my brain...
Posted by: New Zealand Swell at June 28, 2004 04:17 PMIf someone else wants to post 'em, lemme know and I'll email them.
bobo was surprisingly consistent, peeling pretty good, and quite crowded around the time of the low yeserday. winds off-side-off & onagainoffagain - mellow enought to keep a good crowd on the beach too. but i didn't see anything over 3ft and it was mostly 18-inchers & below. felt bad for my buddy, a larger beginner dude, he hadn't tried surfing for over a year and the waves mostly just rolled under him. but he had fun anyway.
thanks on the offer for the test ride, hopefully i'll give it a try soon...
Posted by: loon at June 28, 2004 04:22 PMA lot of names flyin' around all of a sudden??? Resist the temptation! You won't regret it.
Posted by: Rojet at June 28, 2004 04:29 PMThere was an whitey attack at Pedro Pt back a few years ago on a diver.
They are out there.
The regular local is "Pedro" a 15 foot whitey regularly seen out there- frolicking, taking out seals you know - being a shark!
Posted by: at June 28, 2004 04:35 PMWell hello Loon! That was certainly me, I was also trying to stay between those packs. That gust of wind threw so much water in my face for a nanosecond I thought I'd somehow gone over the crest headfirst, haha Otherwise I was OFF all morning, gee whiz. Noticed zebra board guy too...wasn't thinking sharks, I thought he was going for an 80s' retro look
OB is still ripe for anything with a sail attached.
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at June 28, 2004 04:38 PMss: great to finally meet you! that looked like quite a gust. look forward to more formal intros next time ...
apologies for what appears to be not-veiled-enuf namedropping today. in my defense, the south is dying (i.e. report was about history, not present), and i was assuming that reports of 18 inchers usually do not contribute to crowding. perhaps i've underestimated the potential for lilliputian lurkers?
e, as always, please edit/delete as needed!
Posted by: at June 28, 2004 04:46 PMsharks are teritorial no? so theres usually one or two that cruise a given area..i dont know why any would want to chill out in front of ob or pashitica..what with all the polution and lack of vegitation..but i aint no scientitian..will there be waves to ride tonight?
Posted by: bagel at June 28, 2004 05:04 PMI will take one of those please...

Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 05:11 PMOh yeah, there was a Scooby Snack on the beach in front of the most famous fast food restaurant in the greater bay area Sunday. Looked fresh. No bites, etc. but I didn't roll it over and get the 360 degree check up.
Might have had something to do with the previously mentioned fin "sighting" in the area.
Since we are on that topic, there was a guy that I once knew who's girlfriend did some shark research work out at the Farallons (sorry, didn't mean to drop names). Anyway, he always told me that the only months you really have to worry about them are during "feeding" months, primarily October and November. That really stuck with me. However, I have seen/heard more activity from June thru August that leads me to think otherwise.
SharkStah, you got any 411 on this? Anyone?
Posted by: Kaiser at June 28, 2004 05:18 PMKaiser...i've always been of the impression that the "feeding" season starts and ends earlier than your buddy led ya to believe; i.e., i think it's more of a June to September sort of thing. that's the time that the near-shore fish stocks (and hence fishermen...and hence pinnipeds...and hence you-know-who) are more plentiful. however, i'm certainly no 'xpert so others might have a more enlightened 411.
Posted by: ck at June 28, 2004 05:39 PMFeeding season peaks in August and September, when the salmon run. You will notice in those months
1) lots of marine mammal life
2) swarms of birds, occasionally surrounding you and dive-bombing the water
3) kamikaze pelicans diving so hard you'd swear they could kill you
4) general crazy levels of sea life
But sharks are always in the water. They live here, and need to eat. ANYTIME YOU GO SURFING YOU RISK BEING EATEN BY A GREEAT WHITE SHARK. BEST TO JUST STAY AWAY!!!
Posted by: blakestah at June 28, 2004 06:52 PMI wonder if you could train a shark like a dolphin. Imagine the fun in the lineup. Steamers - emptied! Bumps or gentle mouthing only, of course (maybe not). Probably be like Sigfreid and Roy at best, have to go wrestle the thing, or ride its fin every once in a while to show it who's boss. If you ever get a chance to hear a talk by the Farallone's shark expert (the guy that's putting radio transponders on them) definitely go. His general take (I think) was if you can see the shark it probably isn't in the predatory mode. Those thrash and trash seal videos are gnarly - surfers typically get the gentle(!) mouthings only.
Posted by: banjo at June 28, 2004 07:28 PMHa! Nice one Blakestah, keep 'em scared and the numbers may be thinned.
Posted by: New Zealand Swell at June 28, 2004 09:35 PMWe all know that as soon as we open our gobs to non-surfers and say we surf the first thing is "Aren't you scared of sharks" and the second is "Have you surfed Mavericks"....
I get so sick of those same two stupid questions....
If we were that concerned we wouldn't be out there. I can think of maybe 3 times I've surfed on my own and paddled in 'cause of a sharky vibe. Two of those were in NZ where there are hardly ever atacks but schools of juvenile makos would cruise the beach in late summer. The other I was on my own here at Manor on an overcast day. I'm way more scared of psycho makos than whiteys...
ck the All Blacks dicked the Poms again the other week. How sweet is that. I finally stumped for cable so I could get the rugby. Bloody marvellous.
Posted by: NEw Zealand Swell at June 28, 2004 09:40 PMRoll on the Tri Nations, should be a couple of good games between your illustrious 'Boks and my beloved AB's.
Banjo and Blakestah win for the best posts in this thread. Laughing my butt off thinking about clearing out the lineup in SC with my trained shark Fido.
Posted by: Bruce at June 29, 2004 09:26 AMyuskei is great,
He surfs LM all the time, and whenever OB is not good I am at LM too. I think he works over at Sonlight surf shop, good guy. Anyhow, on Pedro, I have heard several sightings of him out at the point, 15 foot is about right, the fishermen see him often enough to report it through the grapevine. I respect that point is his "home," and that's one of the main reasons I have not sampled some of the epic point surf that is out there by the rocks on the south end past Keatings place. I have felt the vibe out there in the line up when I have been hanging out on the north end of LM alone, but no sightings yet.
On the house that got leveled (the one with the Jolly Rogers flying), the city bought the land I believe when upgrading the water system. Pacifica has an antiquated sewer systems that shats to the sea every winter as the system overflows out to the beach. Yum-Yum. I think its gotten better since the Rockaway sewage plant was put in.
The waves at OB compared to LM are so different, but I feel relatively safe at both breaks compared to Montara, Rims, Waddell, or Greyhound Rock (I commonly refer to these places as the Buffet Zone)...
I was driving south to SC one day and saw amazing waves through a notch just south of Martin's...Sharky, for sure, no one out, 8 ft faces open with minimal wind... My brother (another OB regular) surfs Pomponio here and there and says its got a freight train Indo style left that comes around on the right swell. Another spot, certainly in the Buffet Zone.
Anyhow enough ramblings...I'll post some cool Sharps barrels in a bit. As far as finding seals on the beach partially eaten, I think thats a good thing, as Pedro is getting his fill.
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