E's Surf Report

word on the matrix, e...

bethany hamilton killin it

BRAVO!!!

Meatloaf

2 1/2 lbs ground beef
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup breadcrumbs
1/2 bell pepper, chopped
1 onion, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 tbsp chopped parsley
3/4 cup ketchup
4 tbsp chili sauce
3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 350°F. Place everything into a bowl and mix together until
well combined. Form the meat into an oval loaf in a small baking pan.
Spread some ketchup and chili sauce across the top surface of the meatloaf.
Bake for about 80 minutes, or until cooked through. Do not overbake.

Makes 4 servings.

advice worth heeding. so fine.

no surf for me this morning. reports of smallness led me to exchange the dp for the early-to-work-so-that-i-can-leave-early-and-perhaps-score scenario.

i bet gumby scored. again. that guy kills it! ; )

e - STOMP that soapbox! Make it THUMP! Just kiddin'. Good stuff. It's important to be mindful and compassionate in how we earn our daily bread. Having said that, I'm aware that I have more options to pick and choose from because I live in a country where the economy has been based on less than mindful and compassionate pursuits - all the more reason to try to practice ethical behavior in my own life and to pass those values on to my offspring.
I haven't been in the water for over a week and it doesn't look good for today. I'm gonna get wet tomorrow regardless of conditions. I'll go out for a maintenance paddle if nothing else - gotta feel that salty chill!

ah yes, you speak the bojon, my friend.

your words resonate in the kingdom...

The Essence of Bojon

caught some thigh high dribblers on a longboard this morning. first time out in too long. so refreshing to clear the mind and cleanse the soul...

dude, e, the veggie burritos sound rad, all the same i'm glad my cube isn't next to yours this morning. you've got to be percolating up some serious butt coffee

[rant]
Great BVB interview -- I think he's still harboring some bad energy, despite his self-confessed "mellowing". Not buyin' it! ;) But I cannot blame him, I've surfed since 1983 and in SF since 1996, and I too have seen, felt and raised my voice in anger at our surfing subculture's radical and kook-y paradigm shift since the 1980s.

E, are you scared of all the materialism surrounding us? It's consequences? I don't think it's any worse than when I was a child (I'm 30 now). But now I am a part of it, involved and needing it to keep the roof overhead -- the hidden hypocracy, regardless of how soul you might be at the core. I live in duality, seeking MONEY, wishing I didn't have to. I'm glad you said "Maximize your freedom" b/c nobody can truly be 100% free, nobody is able to pull themselves off the grid, it is the conveyor belt we were born on and -- as long as you stay in America -- it is the same conveyor belt you'll go out on. I seek the secret places, as far from the hum of the "money chase" as I can get -- I like to fool myself like that. I am still tethered to an economic system, it buys wax and 3mil booties.

My mission, if I were working at some "UNgreen", "UNconscious" or "UN-progressive" coporation or real estate developer (as you said) would be to recognize and embrace the duality of my existence and try my best to change that corporate entity from the inside (become "the poison pill" of eco-consciousness and social responsibility, if you will). The old guard will need to be replaced someday, why not replace them with fresh logic and more earth-friendly approach?

One day I wanted to tell some people my age, who were snobs: DON'T JUST ASPIRE TO LIVE IN PACIFIC HEIGHTS, DESIRE TO BE THE ANTIDOTE ONCE YOU "GET THERE" and CHANGE IT FROM THE INSIDE. Be wealthy, fine, but don't forget about the pitbull called Karma. I'm trying this out, it's conflicting but hopeful. Makes you feel like the undercover agent of provocative change-for-the-better. You cannot make a stand by just preaching to the choir and surrounding yourselves with the Yes Men -- you must eventually put yourself amidst the SUV snobs and let them befriend you, never let them strip your ideals, and lead by example. INFILTRATE! People have a natural tendency to snap out of ignorance on their own when they see someone doing it better, while some are just lost and cannot find the meaning in your thoughtful actions. They were never the ones to be saved in the first place, so fuck 'em.

The dichotomy of money/freedom, it's bullshit. Some people like to put a halo on it, but we all know it's still bullshit shaped like a halo.

[/rant]

Mahalo.
I'm not happy and I'm not sad,
MM

Gumby surfing! It's so cute and FUNNY and makes me smile. KEEP POSTING PICTURES OF GUMBY SURFING! Maybe we should replace our Garfield suction-cupped on our car windows with Gumby on a surfboard! Ha Ha you silly surfers make me laugh so much!

She's BAAAACCCCKKKK. That wonderful woman with the insights we all admire, that paragon of forgiveness of male stupidity, that model of niceness with an XX 23rd Chrom. . . Sharky!

http://www.surfhumor.com/silly%20stories.htm

E: Your rant-and-rave rocks. Two points. I've been poor and, well, pretty comfortable. Comfortable isn't necessarily a bad goal. It helps dealing with emergencies and allows you to do good things for others. Second, I hang out with a lot of six-figure guys. Most of them have their feet planted firmly on the ground and don't piss away money on new cars and toys.

So I guess what I would add to your rant is that money, per say, isn't bad. What idiots do with it can be. Unfortunately, peeps buy crap thinking it will make them happy. It rarely does.

Doing something that you love and do well eventually pays off. Even if you make a decision at some point (as I did) that NO way was I going to (a) work for a boss/organization I didn't like or (b) work 60 hours a week. Can't let a silly thing like a job interfere with SURFING!

Sorry for the long post. Check out Sharky's article.

E sys, "Eventually I want to have a family and be able to hook the wee ones up phat, but.. at what price to my own personal happiness?"

Every decision we make or don't make has a cost attached to it. I never had kids and don't deeply regret it, but there are some regrets. Seeing the grom makes me think how nice it would be to have a kid to raise and hopefully be better than me. That's not a big stretch though... I was always kinda flakey.

There are things about capitalism that infuriate me. Like right wing republicans. But the system allows for technology, medicine, and higher education. My socialist ideals faded in the early 70's. I prefer to live on the edge of laziness but like grown-up toys. So I work more than I would like to to get my toys. Basically, I think capitalism is better than the alternatives currently available but damn, there's gotta be a better way. Blakestah, you're a smart guy. Help us out here would ya?

Aloha,

Blue Horizon is playing here on Oahu on Thurs. Any niceness crew attend the screening in SF? Thoughts?

empty peeler somewhere between Monterey and Big Sur, circa 1996

wow...veggie burritos and the art of living happy in a materialistic society. i love it. interesting that you mention all of this e as my wife and i have been going through the "let's assess where we are in life" discussions. mostly because I "threatened" to start looking for a job again in the corporate world. scary. I left that world for more "freedom and flexibility" a few years back. So i got more freedom and flexibility...but a lot less money. the thing is it's amazing how much less you can live happily on when you are making less. You spend to your income level i think. all i know is i spend less, we buy less "things" and we spend a lot more time with each other and our kids.

I can definitely empathize with the desire to "hook the wee ones up phat". But I think part of hooking the wee ones up is just spending time with them at the park, the beach, the back yard...whatever. Doesn't have to be material. I go to the park with my kids and see a lot of other kids hangin with their nannies. I can't begrudge their parents for wanting to work and make more money-to each their own-but i do think the kids would be happier hanging with mom or pops instead of getting that pimp new trike.

I do reserve the right to begrudge snobby full-of-themself blowhards, however. Life is too shore to suffer those a-holes...just my opinion, I could be wrong.

money is a tool, use it wisely

Monkey Milk, I couldn't have put it any better!

E, love the post today. My one thought is that the contradictions run deep my friend. I think I understand your motivations towards the thought but at the same time, it is a give-and-take.

There is nothing wrong with possessions and money and power and the like, as long as you use them for your own intentions and not those directed by society. I feel fortunate that I am able to blend the captialistic side with the "free" side of me. I think this has more to do with how I was raised by my parents and the experiences along the way. Our current environments always dictate our actions. If you were chillin in Nicaragua today, an shiny SUV is the furthest thing away. Sure, it might be useful to get to that remote spot but it sure as hell would have been stolen the night before by some banditos.

Personally, I try to go on the path of "balance". That is a very important thing to me.

Most times being self-centered is selfish. Sometimes being selfish is good. Good things come in waves (of course they do!).

Ride your teeter-totter and ride your persoanl equilibrium.

right on jdz.

my friend in NYC smokes spliffs and drinks beers whenever and gets PAID messing around with a paintbrush/wood/plaster/whatever, and his own head. hes alwayse done what he likes and now its paying off for him big. just do what you like, you will live longer. there were tons of painters out there that inhaled cadmium and zink all day everyday and lived to be old happy blokes, and they never "retired"

bagus, see blue horizon..

right on Kaiser-roll.

Currently listening to Outkast's "Liberation," off of the album Aquemini.

tight.

[another rant] I get annoyed by people from privileged backgrounds who publicly disrespect the hand that is privately feeding them. e, no offense but my prediction (only semi-serious and I apologize in advance for presuming to know things about your background that in fact I don't - just guessing, probably wrong, but necessary to illustrate my point anyway) is you'll either meet a trustafari woman and couple off to produce the next generation of privately schooled self absorbed soul surfing vegans, or your parents / grandparents will pass along a chunk of the $ they've amassed in their careers as doctors / lawyers / corporate execs allowing you to renovate your pad in the outer sunset or maybe even buy a place with a little back yard in cole valley, pick up a 4wd volvo wagon with those good smelling leather seats but because its SAFE, and send your kids to Urban or some other nice progressive alternative prep school. Don't sweat it - this is just what happens to people like you. And don't get me wrong, I appreciate the fact that you have some awareness of your privileged position and the philosophical contortions necessary to avoid outright hypocrisy. There really is nothing inherently wrong with being wealthy. But its stupid to be ashamed of it, just as its stupid to think it makes you superior to anybody else. The only thing that really matters is how you conduct yourself as an individual. Give back a little more than you take and you'll be alright. And I don't mean giving $ to the frickin symphony or to politicians. Picking up trash at ob is just a start, and its really a little bit self interested isn't it? How about doing one of those big brothers big sisters things? help a kid without privileges see the wider world and his own potential

i will say that the one thing about making less money or being self employed, especially with kids, is the health insurance is a killer. that's is probably the main reason I have even pondered the idea of going back to corporate...bennies!

on a surf note...anyone else watch the ASP Teahupoo event on OLN? the level of professional surfing never ceases to amaze me. good stuff.

Throw down some new lines in the kitchen peeps:

Moroccan Chicken Tanjin
3-4 pound chicken cut in parts
1 yellow onion chopped
1 carrot minced
1 celery rib minced
1/3 cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1 teaspoon sea salt (as a surfer you owe it to yourself to use real salt harvested from ocean beds)
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 Moroccan preserved lemon, chopped or 1/4 lemon wedge liberally salt the "flesh"(fresh)
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

In a dutch oven or stock pot combine: olive oil, onion, carrot, celery garlic, cumin, ginger, paprika, pepper. Sauté on medium heat until veggies soften and onions become translucent, about 5-7 mines. Add chicken, mix veggies and chicken sauté for another 2 minutes, make sure to really get the chicken coated with the mixture. Add 2 cups of water and the lemon wedge. Cover and simmer on low for 30 minutes. Add water only if necessary. After 30 minutes add minced herbs (cilantro, ital. parsley) simmer another 15 minutes, then enjoy. The fresh herbs add so much to the flavor.

Couscous, crusty bread or white rice all go nicely with this dish. Green olives compliment as well. PEACE

saw t'poo on oln. amazing committed surfing. not really a fan of the hobgood style. damo and his lame-o victory crotch grab should have been left on the editing room floor.

a sure sign that the surf is small/non-existent: the niceness crew turns to exchanging recipes to pass the time. no cam required! ; )

whats with all this recipe naming? vague is voge, people. please.
here's mine:
"**** **** *****"

4 lbs of *****
2 teaspoons ****
4 bushels of ****
a spinkling of ***
a dash of *** marinated in ****

makes * servings. Enjoy- but eat it alone in a dark room and wait 3 days before talking about how good it was on the blog.

Hey all!

E- Your box is strong and has others right next to you. I am glad that surfing is learning and that we all share something that is very precious.

peace

Back home from Mexico and just wanted to share a few thoughts. Remember to travel safely and respectfully. Make sure to pack your trash if you camp.
peace
Roberto


We are so allured by travel. Is it solely the adventure that compels us to leave our familiar? Is it the excitement of the arrival or just the awe we encounter when we reflect on ourselves within our new surroundings? An oddity the traveler is. A special one normally generating as much curiosity and interest as one has in their gaze of discovery. The traveler is so committed and confident amidst a new environment that welcomes, beckons and at times pushes away.
The traveler thirsts for recognition and adventure, while striving to both escape and discover their own identity. Whether lost off a turn, trapped in an immigration office, incapable of utilizing the native tongue or out of funds to keep the act moving, the traveler is resolute. "I'm here and that's what counts." Things work out. They at times get worse but eventually circumstances, introductions, a little assistance from a stranger and some faith lead you forward and get you home. That's where I am now.
Home of sorts in that I am ill prepared and uncertain where I'll stay, but I am happy to be in the states. For now happy to be temporarily off the beach, outta the jungle and away from insects names I cannot pronounce but whose marks remain deeply embossed on my skin. I already miss waking on the beach and the calmness I feel when good surf is literally just footsteps away. I already miss the crowds at the Mercado and the smiles we were greeted with throughout the trip. Oddly enough I miss the feeling of being different. Of not being a part of the norm. I miss feeling special and the sense of character it fed.
As travelers we have so many similarities despite being of different origins and cultures. Of course our differences are not solely based on our values but also in our motivations. I am passing now through the Palm Desert watching the windmills turn like silent giants waving their arms while the Stones blare in "Shot Away". Their constant and solemn motions, like large oaks in the wind their contrast to the music presents my motivations for the trip in metaphor. They remain plated firm to the ground, grasping the natural bellows of the play between hot and cold in an effort to create energy constantly. Tall and powerful, it's hard to project negative reaction to their creators and their purpose. Like petrified Ents, I view them respectfully and calmly. But just to run. Even as mass steel appendages I can see these entities uproot themselves, come to life sprawling in the summer sky and to leap towards the horizon. In binary or some other language communicate their freedom to each other and their opportunity to run.
I ran. I left a bad job, an uncomfortable living situation, a budding relationship and bad surf. All in hopes of recognition and better experience with my passions. There was a desire for new relations and a goal of wanting to improve my Spanish and develop a fuller connection to my family's roots. But underneath was just the selfish desire to score more waves, surf new exotic locations and to have passport stamps fill my ego with a sense of accomplishment.
Did I have fun? YES!!! But did the search and drive for newness and progression shroud the trip or at least myself from understanding something deeper about me and the cultures I have witnessed? Am I supposed to be a better or wiser person for having gone? Do I feel some remorse or guilt for continually arriving and leaving at places that are not remotely familiar? What dialogue can I speak in about paradise, love and the elusive sense of tranquility?
I had hope that some time back home would help me have some formulation of perspective and opaque but tangible answers to these questions. Maybe even a glimpse of my future...Answers that better justify my flight and make me more at ease with myself. It's getting tougher though now that I am immersed within large buildings and surrounded by voices speaking into phones rather than faces. Like the character in the Beach so removed from his discoveries once he is back in front of a computer in an urban cafe, the insights are like us streaming toward our destination only to leave shortly after we have arrived. We got em but we cant keep em.
I don't know what type of traveler I am. I am not a backpacker, eco tourist nor ethnographer. I am not a photo journalist, writer nor artist. I don't even know if I am a surfer anymore. I came to the beach as an exploiter in a broad sense. Reap the ocean's rewards as she takes my energy and slowly morphs my body into a form more palatable to her tastes. I give into her as others do. We play together like the other creatures in the sea. We also fight each other for her approval and for survival amidst her embrace. I feel as though I got to kiss the siren's hand after she has led me to her, only to have her snatch it away and leave me as unappealing and unworthy prey. The sea will always be my home and I constantly dream of offshore winds and plumes off the tops of giant waves.
I'm home now and I look towards the sky hopping that it will be filled with stars. Hoping to get a glimpse maybe at some celestial event that is special. That gives me that feeling of being a discoverer a well as participant in a different and yet familiar place.
I am uncertain of my immediate future and can only hope that the experiences and interactions I had on my journey can continue motivate and empower me. I hope that I will be an even better and not necessarily savvier traveler on my next journey. I may not have yet come to any revelations but I do recognize that I am happier for having gone. Run I did but damn it didn't take to long to get back. I wish that I could just keep going and take all of you literally with me. Surf commune anyone?
Have a good summer and safe journey wherever you may go!

nice rant E

luke - that is too funny! Ha!

corporate lawyer has a point about an often-overlooked need to acknowledge how a person's background has facilitated the development of that person's philosophy/life path - especially when that person puts their philosophy out there for others to consider.

but c.l. also seems to be defending and even humanizing capitalism. and for all the disrespect the humans suffer at the hands of this system, there's really no excuse for that -- unless c.l. also works for fox or one of those right-wing institutes, in whihc case s/he should disclose that.

i, for one, think that the freedoms that we currently experience in this system are way overblown - especially considering that the central component in this system, markets, are very rarely free (anyone try to get into the oil biz lately?) i'd gladly pay more at the store and be happy with fewer product choices if it meant that there was better work for people focused on making a better society for all.

just imagine if society decided to cut the number of products being produced in half, and to use all the capital & workers from the production efforts that were eliminated to solve pressing social issues?

I like where you are going Loon...

Woke up this morning. Went surfing, it was small and mushy, easily rideable, and empty.

There was a time when a certain niceness rider would not only have gone out in such conditions, but would have achieved mega-stoke to boot.

I can only assume that e's super-marginalization of the choices one makes as a parent in his writing above comes from complete ignorance, or a desire to stoke debate. It's extremey shallow to me as a parent.

wow.. thanks for the thought-provoking post 'corporate lawyer'. You make it seem inevitable that i and my ilk will inevitably tap into some pool of financial security. That would be sweet. However, the stress and semi-angst that stimulated my initial rant derived more from the somber realization that i probably will never have very much money in my life. i probably will never be able to own a house in the city and i will probably never be able to send my kids to private school. join the club i guess.

If someone is passionate about money-management or the stock market or investment banking and they pursue it with excited zeal and make a shitload of money and spend it on educating their children or sailing around the south pacific with their honey-bunches-of-oats.. that's fantastic. More power to those people. They're inspiring. My problem is with the people who jump on the money-making, corporate ladder not because they inherently enjoy the work, but because they feel a societal pressure to make 3-figures, to have shiny black luxury cars, to have the McMansion in the 'burbs. These people might not be happy, but they believe that happiness lies beyond the next promotion, the next 50-grand stashed away, the next pair of diamond earings. They work themselves to the bone at something they don't really like. It puts them in angry, unsatisfied moods, moods which resonate outward through all their interactions. This unreflective acceptance-of and committment-to the ratrace of modern american society leads to the dead-ends of avarice, over-consumption, environmental destruction and greed... imho.

your sentiment,
"Give back a little more than you take and you'll be alright."
is right on the fucking money.

Loon,
One problem: cut the products in half means a reduction in jobs by half or more, which means a reduction in available cash, which means no money for social issues with more people needing assistance than before the product cuts. It just doesn't go away.

Day one.

Who's up for an arvo session.

I haven't surfed in 29 hours.

Greed is good. (just kidding)

Luke wins the most clever post award. Makes me think we need a whole new surf blog language:

I woke up at X:00 kissed my wife K^^ and drove down *or*er* street/avenue in my 1991 T******. Got to my job as a [deleted] at ****** Inc. Later I had lunch at M*cD*nald'* on M*ark*t street. Tonight we're going to see Far***** 9-*-* at a little movie theater most of you know about near that coffee shop that has the red curtains.

Me!

I'm heading out. Look for the green-railed egg going this way while its rider goes that.

Yes Tom, the kooks are hitting it. Don't worry, we're totally conspicious.

Greed. I want as many of these I can catch..PLEASE! Thank you!

Pez, does this look familiar??

ahhh...but Dennis...if those jobs are created to produce products that we don't need...are they really jobs worth having?

i make this comment sort of tongue-in-cheek as i know that you have a point and that it's not as simple as reducing product choice to free up capital for grander purposes. however, there is something to loon's logic. maybe if we spend some time thinking about it and pushing it, we can find something amazing.

of course...figuring it out is likely the easy part. the hard part will be trying to convince the masses to abandon the "shiny-toy" syndrome...but you can sign me up for that! after all...that sounds like a job worth having!

blakestah – Agreed - e’s comment, “Eventually I want to have a family and be able to hook the wee ones up phat, but.. at what price to my own personal happiness?” shows a certain naivete about the sacrifices involved in parenting. After all, you don’t have to sell your soul to raise your kids up nice. You just have to be willing to put their needs in front of your desires when necessary. I don’t think e is being shallow here, or that his point of view lacks merit – he just needs some experience to flesh it out a little. Like I said before, I think it’s important to think about how we make our living and not do some fucked-up heinous shit to fill our pie-holes (or our kids’). ‘Sides YOU know there’s lots more to raisin’ kids than just payin’ the bills. Like Horsemouth told his old-lady in that seventies reggae classic film “ROCKERS,” ‘I an’I always check for da yout’ dem. I an’ I give ‘em CULTURE!”

e, i hope you didn't take my comments personally, i've just got a couple of friends who make a big deal out of their low paying jobs in public interest fields and their progressive beliefs but its easy for them because their families are wealthy and they are able to enjoy the benefits of wealth without getting their hands dirty. it fucking pisses me off when people in that position criticize other people who for whatever reason have chosen to go into investment banking or whatever. that is all. and these people are still my friends so i am a hypocrite too. i appreciate your efforts in giving back to the sf surf community, even though you seem to score a lot of waves i think all would agree you've got a credit balance in terms of giving and taking.

“Some people regard private enterprise as a predatory tiger to be shot. Others look on it as a cow they can milk. Not enough people see it as a healthy horse, pulling a sturdy wagon.”

“Socialism is like a dream. Sooner or later you wake up to reality.”

“The inherent vice of capitalism is the unequal sharing of blessings; the inherent vice of socialism is the equal sharing of miseries.”

“You don't make the poor richer by making the rich poorer.”

shit. re-reading that line, "Eventually I want to have a family and be able to hook the wee ones up phat, but.. at what price to my own personal happiness?" I guess i was feeling pretty self-absorbed and negative. I think that i'm just fearful of the pressures and expectations of parenthood. I know that it's a glorious and incredibly selfless task to raise children. I think that i'm just scared and not ready at all do delve into it. Maybe i'll never be. When i was a grom my family was really poor and i remember my parents being super stressed about money and getting food and paying rent. I remember internalizing that stress myself as a little kid. I used to order the cheapest thing on the menu when i was a grom because i thought that anything i bought would be a burden to my parents. That fear and uncertainty about financial security that i felt in my bones as a little kid still lingers deep in my psyche. I'm pretty tight with the money. It makes me wonder if it's possible to maintain happiness and avenues of artistic expression as a non-wealthy parent. So many parents i see giving themselves 100% to the kids.. which is fucking awesome.. but.. as a kid i felt really guilty about my parents doing just that...

basically i have no idea what i'm talking about.

ok!!! ha! back to work.

surf this afternoon hopefully..

Glad y'all liked my "loc's only recipe." Mmmm, I'm hungry for some waves...looks like Tom's got that recipe. I'll take a plate, thank you very much. Looks like tonight's special will be a Lindy-bar (like a Powerbar, minus the power).

I quit the corporate greed life a few months ago and I actually miss it despite the fact that I have surfed every day for the last week. Surfing, Money, even kids or wife will not provide long term happiness. You must look above all these things to God!

you won't miss it come fall

what is God?

I'm very happy with wife, kid, money and surfing -
who needs God?
Ever seen a bunch of atheists start a war?

One of my favorite quotes comes to mind.

"We waste our lives working at jobs we hate to buy shit we don't need!" Tyler Durden.

Didn't go South this morning and didn't surf. shoulda just jumped in at ob. Oh well. There's always tomorrow.

dog is my copilot

Cars and Computers and Surfboards and Wetsuits are all shiny new toys.

Consider this...

The World as 100 people

If we could shrink the earth's population to a village of precisely 100 people, with all the existing human ratios remaining the same, it would look something like the following:

There would be:
57 Asians
21 Europeans
14 from the Western Hemisphere, both N & S
8 Africans.

52 would be female
48 would be male.

70 would be non-white
30 would be white.

70 would be non-Christian
30 would be Christian.

89 would be heterosexual
11 would be homosexual.

6 people would possess 59% of the entire world's wealth and all 6 would be from the U.S.

80 would live in substandard housing
70 would be unable to read
50 would suffer from malnutrition
1 would be near death; 1 would be near birth
1 (yes, only 1) would have a college education & 1 would own a computer.

When one considers our world from such a compressed perspective, the need for acceptance, understanding and education becomes glaringly apparent."

The following is also something to ponder...
If you woke up this morning with more health than illness...you are more blessed than the million who will not survive this week. If you have never experienced the danger of battle, the loneliness of imprisonment, the agony of torture, or the pangs of starvation...you are ahead of 500 million
people in the world.

If you can attend a church meeting without fear of harassment, arrest,torture, or death...you are more blessed than three billion people in the world. If you have food in the refrigerator, clothes on your back, a roof overhead and a place to sleep...you are richer than 75% of this world.

If you have money in the bank, in your wallet, and spare change in a dish someplace ... you are among the top 8% of the world's wealthy.

If your parents are still alive and still married ... you are very rare, even in the United States and Canada.

If you can read this message, you just received a double blessing in that someone was thinking of you, and furthermore, you are more blessed than over two billion people in the world who cannot read at all.

Someone once said:

"Work like you don't need the money.
Love like you've never been hurt.
Dance like nobody's watching.
Sing like nobody's listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth."

dog is just god spelled backwards, ya know.
but dogs are cool.

I heard from someone I trust that the jetty is firing right now, so if you were planning to surf linda mar tonight you should consider driving a little further...

Ok, I'm finally caving. After checking this site for months, I'm going to finally post something but so late in the day nobody will read it. First off, surfed at lunch - chest to shoulder high peaks in the middle. Fun enough..nothing epic. I think corporate lawyer and E both have great points. I, too, am currently a corporate lawyer (a little less corporate than I used to be but not much). I have also done the total opposite surf guide thing in the Maldives, chasing the dream, making no money. They both have obvious perks but in the end there are few completely ideal situations. I have come to the conclusion that it is not really lifestyles or economic "systems" that make us happy or miserable. It is only oneself that can define those realities for oneself. I think the more you look outside yourself to define yourself the harder it is to be happy. Longing for those dream waves you see in photos (even your own) can make you just as miserable as slaving away for that next meaningless corporate promotion. In the end you are only really competing with yourself, right? I need a beer.

a wise man once said: do what you want, do it well and passionately and fuck anybody who talks shit about you

after living in centro america on virtually nothing as a peace corps volunteer, i was always amazed at how happy those around me were. even as their children suffered from a variety of ailments, they had family and community not driven apart by material objects and a constant barrage of capitalism. i also lived without tv, internet, electricity, running water and marveled at heightened mental awareness, the drive to develop strong bonds with those around me, and focus on the integrity of what I was doing. i read a ton, learned to surf, learned to play guitar, and did some good work for the folks there. i'm not generalizing or recommending this for everyone, this was my experience.

my point? well, i’ve been back stateside for five years, and enjoy my life / stuff here, but every now and then I look back with a sigh and miss the simplicity of stripping down to life’s essentials. i would never want to raise my family in that scene, but i’m sketched by doing it in this one. because of the inherent grow grow grow attitude of our economy, kids get barraged with over 1,000 advertisements / day. how can a parent compete with that?

how can a person's own will compete with that?

surfing is a rad start.

of course a wise man brought myrrh to a baby shower, so what do wise men know?

The more bread ya got the less shit ya gotta taste.

Hey E-

Speaking for myself (and probably others) don't take our comments as being critical. . . more a healthy discussion of something that we have all had to wrestle with.

p.s. You do know a lot and you'll make a great dad.

blakestah,
how many surfers in that 100 person world? in anticipation of the answer, i inquire...
can a fractional being bottom turn and smack the lip an hang.. er 6 or 7?
oh to be that one

E "When i was a grom my family was really poor"
You've been to Central America-
The idea of what poor is in this country is having one car and one TV and eating out once a week.

The rest of the world's poverty is mind numbing

I was in Africa and met a man who said

"I want to go to America where the poor people are fat and the rich people are skinny, What a Country!"

In Africa being fat is a sign of wealth and being hungry is the mark of poverty!

suneil the silent protest?

suneil the silent protest?

and that was pretty well put for a first timer.

Kaiser, have you become a tennis fan yet?

Good god it is getting deep in here...

Back to reality folks (ok, surf reality anyway): Lindy was small and almost meaningless a short time ago. For those that need to get wet, take a good attitude out in the water because your rides will be limited. It should be a good time to float around and watch the sunset.

Winds: started to swing out of the W and you know the rest!

Tom, not quite sure what you mean. Definitely no protest here about waht anybody has said. I generally agreed with almost everything everyone said which was weird, so I had to post something myself. The shitty waves of summer can definitely inspire a lot of philosophical melancholy. I've been thinking a lot lately about what a gift and a curse surfing is. I think almost everyone reading this site understands that so no more posts for me.

Poor is relative. Does "poor" always have to relate to monetary wealth?

Tom, how is class treating you? Hope you don't have to study too much.

As for tennis, I LOVE the sport. Since I am a rich motherf*cker that drives an SUV and I just bought 3 new pairs of shoes, a new board (in my defense, it was used) and burned 5 gallons of $2.49 gasoline at lunch to go surfing; I SHOULD like tennis.

Actually, I think tennis sucks. Maybe that is because all the women grunt in a non-sexual way and I can't stand looking at the Predator and Predator Jr. Also, I always smack the ball over the fence and I feel good about it. Kinda like the home run I never hit in little league. Doesn't bode well for competition though.

Long live the man that stabbed Monica Seles!!!!

holy shit look at the wind map right now.... i think cronkite just got wiped off the map

http://sfports.wr.usgs.gov/cgi-bin/wind/windbin.cgi?x=116&y=473

"Also, I always smack the ball over the fence and I feel good about it. Kinda like the home run I never hit in little league." classic!

bstah...frickin' great post. good perspective.

engorged...poverty isn't a competition.

row row row your board
gently towards the peak
marily marily marily marily
life is but a dream
bitches!

suneil - keep posting homie.

Kaiser - keepin' it real and funny as always.

engorged - cool post. the difference between being poor in a place like rural nicaragua and in a place like Philadelphia is that in rural nicaragua everybody is poor while in Philly there are the super rich people living right down the street from the super poor. I think that when you're reminded of what you don't have every day it makes being "poor" that much more difficult.

regardless.. I'm thankful i live in a america and i'm thankful i can feed myself and have the leisure and ability to surf, read, chill, jam, hang, etc.

bruce - thanks for the stoke.

Yeah Suneil!

There's no going back now. Finish the job, and
post some pictures of yourself surfing in the maldives. We know you want to.

I meant silent and protesting by not joining in the madness here with the techies.

Maldives photo's please....

OB: the wind machine is at defcon 3.7, it's choppier than heck but rideable lumpy peaks are lurking about.

At the risk of unintentional patronizing...I highly recommend..well, not recommend at all, really...but for crapola slurf conditions [ or crapola skill ] I guess I sorta recommend having a heinous near-death experience in one's memory roster. Every skunky onshore day, closeout wall on the head, over-the-falls bruising wipeout, frozen 40 minute ragdoll paddle, days of whitewater kook city, and all forms of ridiculous surf conditions are a genuine delight. I feel priviledged every time I paddle out, no matter how goofy the session. Not that I'd mind some gentle glassy olas! Cheers folks,

right on 'bait.

so seriously, we need to have a niceness happy hour some friday... kaiser, e, someone please organize!!!

the old money vs free time debate. very tough for surfers. I am going to try to miss staying with my wifes parents, my wifes grandma broke her hip and might kick it. Work, Friends, Family, I am fucked up...all i can think about is when I can surf, and be on a soft watery steep shoulder. I work part time so I can surf. My life is turning into how can I avoid everything to surf. I even try to make as much as I can an hour freelancing...so I can surf on my off days....SURF... I am young 35 and my body will be old. HAve you thought about your wife vs waves...tough choice, she better never make me decide.....

MOTHER OCEAN I LOVE YOU!!!!!!! YOU CRAZY FUCKED UP SWELLING BITCH!!!!!! PITTED ORGASM OF MY DEEPEST LONGINGS. OB YOU HAVE Teased me toooo much!!!! stay stilll so I can ride a fat one.

??? - Good idea, but seriously, you can do better then that name.

Try the following:
GustOWind
OBBeatMeUp
BlackEye
EGPimp - oh snizzle, looks like it is already taken
LairdsLeftNut
Etc. - don't use that one either

Happy Hour? Hmmm. I drink beer. In fact, I occasionally like to wash down nachos with beer. But I don't like Buffalo Wings, not enough bang for my buck!

dennis: isn't the precursor to wealth-creation the creation of infrastructure (sewers, roads, housing, etc.)? and can't that process in & of itself generate wealth? what we really need to do is redefine the word "investment" ...

suneil, your point about the relationship between personal goals and angst resonates for me on many levels. i like to think that looking at things over longer periods of time, and within a broader context helps, but it's an ongoing struggle.

happy trinket-free hours to all!

three totally random, unconnected thoughts:

-i know a guy who's dad beat him until Christmas of his 15th year, at which point he showed up at his house, dropped his dad cold, quit high school and moved out of the house. his brothers in jail for a shooting whereas this kid is now an investment banker clearing $ and the best father you'll ever meet.
-i'd wager that half the 'hippies' in santa cruz make more money in interest from their trust funds than i do working.
-my hometown has now officially been devoured by urban sprawl and the encroachment of 'civilization'. the milkman no longer delivers!! what the heck??

anyways, the point i'm getting at is i have no point but i'm loving the discussions lately.

my recipe for one happy weekend (serves 8-10):
-3 campsites
-6 lbs. of kalua pig
-pony keg of beer, or your favorite bottles/cans
-7-9 good friends, both old and new
-3 dogs
-surfboards, wetsuits, etc.
-couple bazillion gallons saltwater

add wetsuits to bodies. douse surfboards in saltwater and rub front of wetsuits liberally on board. remove wetsuit/board mixture from water and fill oral cavity with beer. add 3 dogs, kalua pig, bonfire and laugh liberally. repeat as necessary.

word.

kaiser - you gotta get the BONELESS buffalo wings man!! sheesh...happy hour novices.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5320169/

Man Shot in Face, Spits Out Bullet
WOAI-TV

June 29, 2004 - A San Antonio man is shot in the face, then spits out the bullet.

Police say the 37-year-old man was shot at by his girlfriend's brother just close to 8 p.m. Monday on F Street on the east side.

The bullet entered the man's right cheek, went into the his mouth, and knocked out a few teeth, police said. He spit out the teeth and the bullet, police said.

Officers are looking for Francisco Contreras from Laredo in connection with the shooting. They believe he is on his way there.

The victim was taken to the hospital in stable condition.

If I had Bill Gates money, I'd buy a medium-sized undeveloped island in the South Pacific and create an environmentally safe country. I'd call it Dennis Island, maybe. High technology to work anywhere in the world via the net. Simple but clean, comfortable buildings. Non-polluting septic systems (they do exist and Loon is ready to help build them). Public transportaion only. And most importantly, limit the number of residents and visitors so not to crowd the many reef breaks. Everyone on the island will be an employee-owner. Anybody wanna become citizens of Dennis Island? I bought a lottery ticket today.

mmmmmmmmmm, i love a full figured....board.

nice backside

Dennis...sign me up! but...can i build something other than septic systems? maybe an environmentally-friendly, open-air bar overlooking one of the pristine breaks?

dennis world, party time, excellent

http://www.privateislandsonline.com/

We're going to need plenty of racks to dry out the MJ and huge coolers for the beer.

lindonesia was firing tonight, semi makeable 2 ft shore pound. when i took my wetsuit off the inside was full of sand. I think i had the e style pig dog working on a couple of lefts

e

thanks for you

I'll brew the beer for dennis world. If it's right in front of a pristine break though, I'm not sure supply will keep up with demand...

music

If you've lost your faith in love and music
Oh the end won't be long
Because if it's gone for you then I too may lose it
And that would be wrong

You know I've tried so hard to keep myself from falling
Back into my bad old ways
And it chars my heart to always hear you calling
Calling for the good old days
Because there were no good old days
These are the good old days

i can't get it out of my head

Five posts short of a hundred. Someone help me out!

Hereby helped out!

Now somebody tell me where there's surfable surf---family out of town for the week, time ultra-flexible . . . MUST HAVE SURF!!!

just wondering what you guys thought was poor/rich $$$ wise per year?

It's a debt/income relationship in some cases. In others it's just being cold and hungry and not having money to satisfy either discomfort.

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