E's Surf Report

been of the grid for a few days. yesterdays comments
and thoughts were dead on....everyone remember to
bring that to the surf (when there is some).

woke up in santa cruz yesterday....sun and blue skies...
then fog rolled in just like here. if you are even considering
a drive save the gas....

the surf is NOT scottish.

and if it's not scottish...it's CRAP!

Better archive yesterday under the "Best of E's"

I'm heading south to take pictures of birds, since that seems the only thing happening. My nephew is flying in from Phoenix so that will be cool. He's the Marine Reserve who was in Iraq at the start of the war. He said that first night was pretty weird. They were huddled in their chemical suits in foxholes. All night the missiles were being launched over their heads from Iraq towards Kuwait. Each time, the US would lock on the coordinates and return fire with Patriot missles and multiple rocket launchers. They were seriously scared.

Which makes me only more frustrated that the premises for the invasion were unsound. Some experts estimate that Sadam killed 150,000 Iraqi citizens between the two gulf wars so I'm glad he's history. But it's still very troubling that our government believed bogus intelligence about WMD. And I tend to be pretty conservative on national security issues.

Adios, Bush. Hola, Kerry. Heck, at least he can snowboard. Suppose the Secret Service would let him paddle out a Windy for some lessons?

Sorry for talking politics, but I thought my nephew's experience was pretty interesting.

sorry you got skunked, e. no one seemed to be talking about it directly yesterday, but wed night was very fun at ob - too much tide, but very bowly and consistent enough to hold a good crowd. it seemed like the sandbars from mid beach down to sloat were working pretty good for this time of year. hopefully this bodes well for the holiday if things go as blakestah predicts...

thanks for the story from your nephew, bruce. i agree, yesterday's exchange was great. here's a story from today's chron for anyone who was wondering about my comments about infrastructure-building:

SOLEDAD: Contaminated well forces state prison to ration water Toilet flushing, hand washing, showers limited

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2004/07/01/BAG4S7ENOQ1.DTL

this story is of course also indirectly surf-related -- the nitrates that poisoned the water supply are an issue for any coastal areas with agriculture happening nearby.

OB: Dry hair paddle! Dry hair paddle! Okay that's enough disgusting optimism. Foggy and medium mild onshores, choppy but some parts look goofily cruisable for heavy logs. Conditions just good enough for hard core procrastinators.

Many olas for your nephew, Bruce

Bruce,
Sadam history? We just turned the bastard over to the local govt. The guys like a dreaded nw onshore ...he'll be back.

oh my gosh.... did i mention that i love working.

fark.

elias - you are a twisted, twisted individual.

bush - not good
kerry - scares me

e for president!!!!!

nice interview with Christian, E. Its is a testement to the quality of character of the both of you(s).

i just read the christian interview, too. good stuff, if only everyone could have his inner peace.

christian for president!!!

nice work on the christian interview, e.

Liked the stories, christian. good to have you at the beach. we're on it this winter.

talk about humbling: check these shots of carissa moore. She's 11. (and younger in some of these shots.)

Damn... Sliding tail, grab-rail airs, huge gaffs, styling barrels. The real deal -- and a decade away from reaching her full potential. That's scary.

cool interview E, christian is such a positive and stoked guy! right on! also a very deep and thoughtful conversation yesterday... no easy answers. i tend to side with those who see happiness coming from a place of personal harmony... whatever you do, if you can find peace inside of yourself (perhaps with how you connect to everything else), then you can find acceptance, which often leads to love... and most importantly, hopefully you are then free to treat others with Compassion. here's the central theme to the You are Love Tour '04:

~
You are Love.

Let the Energy of your Life dance
and Celebrate the Ever Now
as Infinite Love.
~

whether it's on a wave or at your favorite band's last concert, or even sitting at your cubicle, there are many perspectives available to connect you to the holiness of life. share & celebrate!

damn.. that lil' tyke rips shit up!

nice job on the interview and ethan i thank you for when you think out loud. those that disagree should know that this site is updated daily and if they were truly offended.....well they should know that the next day would be filled with discussion to work it out so take it easy on easy going ethan fellas.

but so you guys know that the final pic in christian's interview.......waaaay out on the shoulder is rodrigo resende.

so let's just say our boy sits deep....and deeper than internationally famous, big wave event invitees like rodrigo on occasion......

damn, whos that girl? is she on preformance enhancing drugs allready?

gotta read the interview..

Oh my god she rips! Best thing on her website is this though:

http://www.carissamoore.com/files/videos/air.mov

Sorry, forgot the syntax, but go to the link. Those that have kids will just smile, smile, smile at this clip. And others will too.

much love,
Jack

Those pics make me feel like a fat old man.

Off to see my surf sensei in Ventura tomorrow........

Ok, ok, I gotta talk Carissa Moore. Marco, get in here with some knowledge as well.

Carissa used to surf Kaisers all the time on the south shore. She would paddle out with her dad in tow. He would sit in the channel off the right while she got her reps in. Taking pics and giving encouragement along the way. Without question, she has talent. I first saw her surf about 3 years ago out at Kaisers. She has progressed significantly since then. When she made the q-finals at last years Roxy contest at Haleiwa, people took notice.

Bottomline: Just goes to show you where professional surfing is headed. Surfing/training everyday since you were 5,6,7 or the like can get you there. Nico on the WCT in say 12-13 years?

I think Marco's illegitamate son, JJ Florence, has dibs on her though. Keepin' the Hawaiian thing Hawaiian.

Off to read Christian's interview.....

Yesterday I ran into Doc Renneker in a coffee shop and can't believe how star-struck I was. I've seen a number of hollywood celebs in the flesh before but nothing like running into a legendary surfer from your homebreak no less. I must've seemed like a stammering blathering kook 'cuz he made a beeline to get his ass and latte outta there real quick. I asked him why I never see him at The Beach, but I was probably trying to tell him too much to wait for an answer. The funny thing is I'm not even that big a fan of the guy or anything, but after reading and re-reading that Finnegan piece over the years and seeing him on the tube and in the mags, he really does seem kinda bigger than life.

christian is the man!!

thanks for the sweet interview, e. and christian for pushing so many good vibes. they radiated several hundred miles northward!

great interview with christian! i think that the brazilian contigent was out at ob wed night -- were you out there christian?

Renneker is on video here, third wave
http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/obwsd2002.wmv

loon.. are you talking about tuesday night? cause last night (wed.) didn't look too good.

Loving these kid pix.

Secret spot codename Aratnom: ridable not long ago, if for some reason like me you just HAVE to get wet for three hours. Ram Adnil looked okay on the way back.

Thanks for the video. That was a nice break from the drag of work!!!!

Just finished reading your interview E! Solid work!

Christian is the type of surfer that inspires me to get up each and every morning for my dawnie routine! Totally humble and full of stoke! Inspiration to many~!

Good read.

nice vid blakestah, i even dug the music. reminds me why i live here again.

The music is my brother-in-law's bluegrass band from Athens GA. He's the lead banjo player.

great interview, e & christian. also, nice carissamoore clip, jack. cheers.

ps: off to chas, sc then bi,ri. see everone in month!

Come on Suneil, don't try to back away from your new addiction.

Please chime in with an embarrasing Christian story, photos from the maldives, or some corporate lawyer philosophizing.

We're waiting.

Man, after all that philosiphizing I went out to 111 Minna for "qool" night and felt compelled to have one too many. A little hurting to say the least. Great interview with Christian. One of my best friends and it is so good to see him doing well in and out of the water after a serious amount of crap he's dealt with in the past few years. No embarrassing stories (he's got more on me than I have on him). We still have to go out and celebrate our birthdays and I got to check out your new beach front pad.

Word niceness! I'll keep it short because I'm on an internet cafe timer. Been out here on Oahu South Shore for 2 weeks, and have 2 left! Waves have been pretty small but very fun. Every one has been pretty nice. Hope everyone is enjoying life back at home. It's awesome here but can't wait to get home. adios!

man, i wish i could surf like her. and i thought sofia was a prodigy.
well kids, i gotta spit up dust before the sun sets, so's i can kick up a whole lot more before it rises. over the border and onto the dusty paths. dp off the 1D. catch ya'll later.

e - Thanks for the Christian interview - very cool, inspiring. I'm gonna go surfing after work -I'm jonesin' way past caring about the conditions.

great interview! if we could all surf with the cojones and the humility of christian. damn, i still owe you and nico a pizza dinner!!!

blakestah keep recycling the videos! i give that one a definite thumbs up...even the 2nd time around.

no worries on doing the Christian interview. it was super fun. i really enjoy interviewing people so if anyone has ideas about who they would like to see interviewed let me know.

i can't help myself... i gotta expose... it's to good to keep hoggin myself:

SWEET POTATO CHOCOLATE CAKE

4 oz semisweet chocolate
1 tsp vanilla
3 cups flour
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 tsp baking powder
2 tsp baking soda
2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1/4 tsp ground Barhedral cloves
1/4 tsp Barhedral nutmeg
1 tsp salt
2 cups mashed cooked sweet potatoes
1 1/2 cups oil
4 eggs
1 cup nuts, optional....I didn't option!

Butter and lightly flour a tube or Bundt pan. Place
cholate and vanilla in a small saucepan and set,
covered, in a larger pan that you've just filled with
boiling water.

Sift together all dry ingredients and set aside. In a
large bowl, beat the sweet potatoes and oil together,
then beat in the eggs one by one until well blended.
Slowly add dry ingredients and mix well; stir in nuts,
if you option. Put one-third of the mixture in
another bowl and stir in the chocolate, which should
be melted smooth by now. Alternate the batters in the
pan, as you would with a marble cake. With a knife,
cut through the two batters to slightly swirl
together. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 1
-1 1/4 hours or until the sides have shrunk away from
the pan, the top is springy, and tester comes out dry!
Let cool 10 minutes and then remove from the pan and
cool on a rack. Enjoy, this is a great cake I
haven't made for a long time. love mom

great, you went and named sweet potato chocolate cake, now safeway is going to be out of eggs and vanilla.

ethan, please hide the name and ingredients!

great interview e! christian is the man.

yo e. i did mean tues. so that means today isn't friday, eh? damn.

I'll being the Lane Lot Lizzard routine this weekend or maybe a bit north of town. Say Hi if you see a lot of gray hair hiding behind a camera.

Great posts, great karma, great peeps.

ya christian rules! im glad i met that cat this past year. always stoked to see his smiling mug out there, all you other heads whos heads i know too..

whats that? after work grovel? i think im down. i wonder if i still know how, to surf that is, ive been getting pretty good at groveling..

Humboldt County Doobie:

1 oz Humboldt County's Finest
3 Rolling Papers
1 lighter

- Take a palm size amount of Humboldt's Finest, break it up into small bits. Lay 2 rolling papers top edge to bottom edge. Lick the paper to form adhesion between sheets. Let sit. Take broken bits of Humboldt's Finest, gently sprinkle on your merged papers. With a light touch, begin to roll your HF to evenly distribute along the papers. Once satisfied with the distribution, lick edge to complete your roll. Don't worry if you displace some of your material. Finally, take your 3rd paper and scrap all the scraplings into your resevior bag.

Fire-up the lighter, burn your phat one down!

Continue as necessary until you utilize your OZ.

Check out these little girls -- they rip too!

Richard Cram, Age 8

Tom Carrol, age 5

Little Tommy, again.

Goddamn, work is boring.

3to5..7, do you have any idea how many women would SWOON over that CAKE?!

Christian, you are the bomb. So glad to have met you.

can't forget these kids.

godbless child prodigies. Still waiting for the bell to ring 5:00...

keep the pics flowin' Lewis.. you have mvp (most valueable poster) status today.

check out Steve Vai's setup

poor steve vai. all the talent in the world, and no taste.

he could plug his guitar into one of the borg and still be blown away by a world of musicians with acoustic guitars and more mojo in their little finger than he has in his whole body.

word Lewis..although he was good as the delivs guitar player at the end of Crossroads the best movie ever

i agree on the steve vai has no taste call.. same with satriani. same with Pat Metheny (sp?), same with Eric Johnson. all amazing musicians.. i just don't dig on their styles..

listening to John Mcglaughlin right now on Miles Davis "Live Evil".. now there is some ripping guitar.

That movie Crossroads did kind of rule, Bagel. When I was in 7th grade all I cared about was surfing, girls, and playing blues guitar.

There's something very engaging about the whole Robert Johnson legend: sell your soul to the devil and you can play like no other.

This brings up an interesting point, actually. I'm beginning to suspect our supernaturally talented 11-year old innocent, Carissa Moore, has sold her soul to Satan. That would explain those wicked grab-rail airs.

Look into her eyes: You can see hellfire there.

E: you should interview the girl who bodysurfs OB. i can't remember her name, but she is super cool & friendly and what she does is amazing, i'm sure if you don't know who I'm talking about many here do. It takes a consumate waterwoman to handle the beach- at size- sans board, and she must have a unique perspective on OB.

word luke.. i already asked Judith for an interview. she denied. said that she wants to keep as "under the radar as possible".

trey's ol' faithful

e - how about interviewing some local shapers like john schultze or the mandala guy who makes those cool old school fishes. just a thought.

i'd be up to read an interview from lewis....i want to hear more about the bra boys and the times in indo....travel surf stories i never get bored of. also stories of days that were big and gnar...rip and tear movies and stories make me sleepy but big or perfect waves in remote lands......

e - it'd be kind of cool if you thought about all the questions you'd want to ask someone you found interesting, than answer them yourself, as if you were interviewing yourself. we get a feel for you from the posts, but a Q&A sesh would be fascinating.

car is packed....ready for the weekend....

Hot Music Alert: For the acoustically inclined...and much more. I saw Jerry Douglas and his band at the Mystic in Petaluma last night. Absolutely on-fire!!!! The band he's with is top notch, including Gabe Witcher on Fiddle (out of LA). Strangely enough he doubles between awesome bluegrass fiddle and beyond, then also plays base for Eve6, who recently broke up. There's a young ripper from Dallas, TX on the dreadnought and the bass player is the ex-base player from Nickel Creek. And well you know how good Jerry Douglas' Dobro is. Anyway they are playing at Great American tonight, and this is the hottest I've seen him....probably about the 10th time I've seen him.

ya id be interested in the Lewis interview the kid seems like hes got the storys and the photos and a solid low key head on the shoulders..an e on e would be good too..

in other news cabrillo st stony slopfest 2004 happening at 7pm

bagel.. i'd be there for the stony-baloney slop fest but me gotz band practice..

enjoy!!

word to big bird..there will be many a slop fest in the weekes to come im sure

what exactly will be happening at this 'stony slopfest'?

Niceness crew,

I'm lucky enough to be going to kauai in at the end of july. i'm about due for a new board and i thought i'd put half the airline board fees towards a board when i get there. does anyone know a cool shaper in kauai? please drop me an e-mail, it's linked here...

There's this dude on Kauai named Dick Brewer. Kinda high end.

Another dude there, a tranny from Pacifica, named Ambrose Curry. I highly recommend looking him up.

For interviews, I think you should go for the old-timers. Interview Bill Hickey and/or Dick Keating, and ask them about history, their shaping through history, surf culture through the decades, etc. Hickey started shaping here in 1958.

Or, even, Bob Wise, who's logged a few years under his belt.

Lewis would be good too. His housemate at UCSD once told me he was one of the better surfers in the lineup - no matter where he went in San Diego. He was 18 or 19 at the time, I think - maybe 12 years ago...maybe. My memory through that period in my life is kinda fuzzy.

Screw those other interviews. I want Ethan to interview Ethan. We all love this guy so it's time for him to fess up. OK, you evening blog trolls, come up with some questions.

Mine:

When/how did you get the urge to start this blog?
When did you start surfing?
How much time did you spend in NJ, and why?
What's the best part of your surfing?
What aspect of your surfing would you most like to improve?
So you keep eluding to the band. Where do we guys who don't hang out in the Ave's get to hear you rock?
How can you maintain this site and keep your day job?
How many women call you every week to say hi?
Do you want to surf Mav's some day?
What is your opinion of Quarter Pounders from Mac's?
Please explain Kaiser's obsession with girls in bikinis (oh, never mind).
When was the last time you got a haircut and which girlfriend did the clip?

OK, E. You're on.

awesome shots lewis. "the snap" TC rocked the surfing world with that gaff.

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