E's Surf Report

Sandow Birk
North Swell (Washington Crossing the Delaware)
1990
oil on canvas 37 1/2" x 63"

www.sandowbirk.com

Writing from Santa Crud_________
Waiting.
That's a very old Sandow image.
And E, when do I get my article?

birks good..funny shit. ive alwayse thought that skating/ers really had an edge over surfing/ers art wise. but the good ones are reaaally good, whatever the hell that means..i guess its true though that the hokie factor is higher with surfing as its more mellow overall..at least in my oppinion

drove all the way to 3 amigos last night and that was some of the flatest shit ive seen in this area in a while. pimp point looked to be the only decent spot which is sad..

OB: Balmy tropical paradise! Frigid ditto of yesterday with extra lumpiness due to steady fog bank. Nobody out but ob is about to gain one idiot. Heck why not, compared to all day of work, bills, and laundry, one hour of 2 foot ob is a dream vacation! Who knows what incredible rides and adventures await. Maybe it will glass off for 15 minutes. Maybe buried pirate treasure will be found. And cheers for the 2 guys shredding `1-3 foot slop at 7 am, fantastic.

Looking forward to BASE, e!

BASE!

Bout time that Base hit the streets!!!! That wave on the cover looks sick. I'd be on it!

"Adelaide-based company SeaChange Technology yesterday unveiled its prototype surfboards fitted with shark deterrent systems.
Devices emit electrical fields around the surfboard, which the company says impact on the sharks' snout, causing them discomfort and forcing them to stay away."

http://news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,10131332%255E2682,00.html

oh yeah, and it's friiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiday!!! i'd be on the evening skate with u e like stink on shit, but unfortunately i don't live in the 'hood. sonofa....

hope everybody has a good one.

Wavelets were showing at a creek in N. SC county today. Nothing spectacular but it was a rare and rewarding experience of surfing waste to chest high a-frames with only my buddy and I.

The drive down the 1 was slow through the peasoup until... pigeon pt. and the bank dissapeared completely. Bizzare. Anybody know why the change of the coastal direction causes the fog disperse? wind direction maybe?

That wave on the cover is a shot by Will Henry, if I am not mistaken. It was taken on a January day two winters ago when the swell was 11 ft 17 seconds in the morning, but by the time the shot was taken it was down to 9 ft 17 sec, or so. With really stiff offshores. I recall surfing that week pretty well - not crowded at all. The day after that shot I got one of the best waves of my life at the beach. Dropped in, and halfway down the wave I had to straighten out to make the drop in fast enough, powered a BIG bottom turn, and pulled into this really long steep wave face. In 3 hours it was my only wave, shortly after that I got caught by a set and a glassed on fin busted off the 8'6", time to go in. With only one wave, it was still the best session that year.

surfed miserable waves this morning. It was, at least, a little exercise. But these other 3 guys found and kidnapped a little penguin from the shorebreak!!! No joke, they were going to take it to the zoo.

Lewis, I just wanted to add my compliments to the standing pile for your little photo essay the other day on 70's and 80's surf stars, it was terrific and right on. The second photo has been bugging me, the one of PT under the pier with that pink board: it seems to have a kind of assymetrical tail.

The only surf artist (more like landscape artist really) I really ever liked is Christian Lassen, not so much for his art, but his lifestyle. Off one painting, the guy makes some prints and makes more than most of us do in a year.

The rest of the time the guy is surfing, windsurfing and hobknobing with Honolulu's elite in his Kahala beachfront mansion. Total Zoolander style. The guy rips more than the average joe too.

asymmetrical tail?

Total zoolander / Siegfried and Roy kinda shit you see on the back of a motorhome style.

cool blakestah.. yeah.. that's a will henry photo on the cover of basemag. i got his permission to use it and in exchange included an add for his savethewaves.org foundation within the mag.

siiiick!

lassen used to show up to surf hookipa in a caddy with a quiver of rockstar art groupies. it was out of place. he did host some most excellent parties at his place. local mushrooms always made his art more appealing.

More details on the penguin! My wife claims she saw a penguin at the beach near Poplar street in HMB. We got a good laugh out of it as I told her there was no way......

.....she swears it was a penguin.

Anyway, she who laughs last.....

{I hope there aren't any rogue walrus out there...)

asymetrical tail, i recall reading a story about PT asym - tail in 70's. i've ridden one, however is twas bass ackwards as it was for a regular foot and i'm, well......goofy.

fart.. if you're sending me a SASE (self addressed stamped envelop) for basemag.. could you make it a larger manilla envelop. the mag is 5.5 by 8.5 inches so i can fit it in a normal envelop.. but.. it'll have a fold through the center..

HEY PEZ:

Yeah R________IGGGGGGGGH_____TTTT.
I hate Lassen's art - can't even call it "art. "He's like the Thomas Kinkaid of "OCEAN ART."
You're right though - he's one rich motherfucker. His house at D-Head is pretty unreal. Enviable? Hardly. Well, maybe a little...
I can't wait fot the day when they change the murals at the airport in Honoulu - everytime I look at them my eyes hurt and not because of the glare. I can't remember the hacks name that paitned them but he has like 15 galleries on Oahu alone.
Fucking shit!

Hey, BStahller, - and then you woke up?

I want my freeBASE (just joking if groms read this). Can't wait to read more of your stuff, Ethan Hemingway. Too bad we couldn't hook up this afternoon. I'm heading to the usual spot and would be happy to drop of some rags at the shops along PCH. Pleased to help if you want to broaden the distribution. Hell, you have your own army of friends, who needs delivery trucks?

Gee, we can all say we knew this sweet neo-hippie before he became a publishing magnate!

I'll probably be shooting photos tomorrow morning from the Lizard Lot if you peeps come down. That is, if there's more than ankle biting waves. Give me a hearty "hi" or a dope slap, depending on your mood.

Yo, you guys can enter this but know you are going for second! I make a mean grilled cheese:

http://www.grilledcheese-contest.com/

wyland

ya base mag!

Damn, what up with the swell? I surfed yesterday down in Ventura and it was pumpin' down there. Thought it would turn on for sure up here but all we have is the same ole' crap.

Lot Lizzo, might have to come see about some olas down there manana. I will keep the cell handy.

Anyone else see Riding Giants on Wednesday? Sweet movie. What was even better is that I walked out of the flick (put on by Men's Journal) with about 11 new t-shirts, a new sweatshirt, a new beenie and 6 copies of the same Men's Journal mag! Not bad for the $10.00 parking fee!

bvb, I really did catch one of the best waves of my life the day after than Will Henry shot. Ask him when he took it!

The penguin was real. These three guys who paddled out shortly after me found it in the shorebreak (on the sand really) and took it to the zoo, or so they claimed. It was small, but looked just like a zoo penguin.

I could be wrong on the bird ID, but I've never seen a bird like that at the beach before.

....bacon tastes good pork chops taste good, grilled cheese taste good.

BVB,
Yeah, Lassen is much like Kincaid, but the great part is he's jacking the tacky tourists left and right. That's great in my book. I actually have a Lassen in my art horde (I'm part English). Found the thing at the flea market for $12.99, but can sell it anyday on ebay for $5,000 if need be.

those manila envelopes will probably need two 37 cent stamps....

it's 60 cents just for it being 8.5X11 in size...if it's heavier than 6 oz. it'll need more postage

http://postcalc.usps.gov/

DP today... it was basically yesterdary with more texture at the SM county break which I guess pretty much belongs to me now. I drove further south and didn't see nuthin'; my little cove looked the best once again. Small but playful little nuggets, and I was the only taker.

PENGUIN?

postman.. the mag is 5.5 by 8.5 inches.

shiiit.. i have no idea how heavy it is.. it's 10 8.5 x 11 pieces of paper folded in half.. with two staples.

fart.. i'm not sure how to do the postage thing..

sorry.

fuckk.. work beckons..

Ahh, the long awaited BASE... great!
OB tiny today, couldn't motivate myself to hop in. Let's hope for some swell soon.

i awoke early...okay...not THAT early...but still early 'nuff for a Friday...checked the buoys and decided that i'd hit pillow point for another 1.5 hr seshie. sweet!

BASE mag issue #1! i need to get the hook-up on that...and no crease down the center either. gotta keep it pristine so that i can sell it for a bjillion $$'s in 20-years. way to put it together, e. i can't wait to check it out.

that cover shot sends me diving for my fuzzy blanket! after all of this double over-knee conditions we've seen lately, i think i'd shiet myself on anything over head-high...let alone that churning beast! thankfully we get the gradual fall size run-up before the mackers arrive.

happy Friday, ya heads!

negatory on any south showing at ob...or any swell whatsoever, for that matter!

Penguin?!! Imagine paddling out and seeing a penguin gliding along.

F R E E B A S E !!!

speaking of freebase.. i was jamming with Clapton the other day and he told me, "ya know, she actually did like Cocaine!"

Damn that pimp Lassen showed up in a Caddy? What kind, a new one or old?

For some reason those haole kids from Kahala-Hawaii Kai end up super quirky. Something about being on the top and bottom of the ladder at the same time...

What's worse:
a hungry shark or an insane surgeon:

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/afp/20040716/od_afp/romania_health_offbeat_040716105200&e=3

The penguin wasn't a puffin, was it? They look somewhat similar and puffins can be found in the Bay Area, mainly out towards the Faralones. Either way, cool!

http://images.google.com/images?q=puffin

Free BASE Mag, yeah!!

Its feet were dark, not orange, and it definitely didn't have that weird puffin beak.

BUt hey, I'm no ornithologist...

Can't wait to Freebase tonite.

Pimping surfing in SF. Bad form. Anonymity suggested.

i hear ya on the bad form of pimping surfing in SF.. but.. with only 200 copies printed.. how much harm can it do?

hey no name ever heard of mavericks?

BASE! How low can you go?
Death row what a brother knows
Once again, back is the incredible
The rhyme animal
The incredible D. Public Enemy number one
Five-O said "Freeze!" and I got numb
Can't I tell 'em that I really never had a gun?
But it's the wax that the Terminator X spun

....yeah, but Pimpin aint Easy.

Saw Riding Giants.
Be sure to go check it out...ESPECIALLY if youre into big wave surfing.
Its not as Punk Rock as the Dogtown flick, but thats probably just because of the nature of surfing and surfers compared to skateboarding and skateboarders.
Some Golden old time footage in there...absolutely golden...
Nice Laird anecdote as well-

i guess mavericks isnt SF but it is "BAY AREA Surf Experience"

speaking of Laird anyone catch him on letterman last night?..surfers, oy ve

Drove to SC for DP and it was tiny, with the exception of weasel reef, which was small and already had four guys on it. Headed north and checked all the spots, including Sc***'s Creek; all were tiny. I'll be sleeping in tomorrow.

Spots that break right on the sand are fun on these swells. Reminds me of being 9 and surfing hardcore heats against my buddy in one footers. He ended up pro, I ended up good at bong hits.

Yo Base-rock hub smoke.

There's already been a couple free zines that have come and gone around here. Juice was OK and at the local liqueur stores and Wind Tracks, which was windsurfing oriented. The wind tracks guy is now in exile someplace as he dicked over some folks. I don't know what happened to Juice.

Here's a question for some marin-sonoma (ites): I saw that Daily Dale Webster got written up in TSJ, and one of the pictures has an old red wagon in the background. My question: Is that his vehicele, and if so, isn't there another similar rig driven by a guy with longer hair. I see em all the time at Dillon and Bolinas (the rare times I check there). These two people have really different personalities and I'm looking for a little history/background on this. If you're from up my way you've undoubtedy seen these guys. Anyway, it's incredible when you think of logistics of actually catching 3-waves everyday since 1976 ....oh I have the flu, it's January and 12 ft and 14 sec. OK - let's load up the truck and get moving.

Um lampin, um lampin, um cole cole lampin
I got loowies boy, um not trampin
I just came from Da-crib ya know
Um on da go-throw ya tank into metro
Live lyrics from the bank of reality
I kick da flyest dope maneuver technicality
To a dope track, you wanna hike git out ya backpack

sorry

a little surf stoke to lighten things up!!! i just got back from bali and i've posted a few pics/stories on the -er BB. here's the link

http://forum.surfermag.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=518242&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1#Post518857

I will continue to add pics and surf stories from my trip little by little. i'm stoked out of my mind and i want to stoke you guys out too!

btw, I can make out the energy from the south quite clearly on the buoys, it is there, it is just tiny. This is in case anyone is holding out expecting it to come later or something. It is here, it's tiny, get used to it.

Monday's swell hit Christmas Island slightly smaller than this one, but slightly longer period. With the tradewinds blowing near the equator, I am not holding my breath on this one either. If we are lucky we could break 2 feet!

47 days till September.

thanks for the update blakestah. i was optimistically pondering a dp for tomorrow but it sounds like the shmoke & a pancake option is a better bet.

the skunk on the side of the road in montara was the symbol of the morning for me: got up & toured the coast from kelly's down to elgra - NADA much anywhere. it's about 18-30 inches short of lake status out there, but there were at least a half dozen people in the water at each of the more obvious spots giving it a go.

i'm off to DC & FL next week so something is bound to hit while i'm gone.

don't worry bout da wave. wave come.

-Duke

b'stah...do you have to bring us back to reality? here i was hoping for glassy head-high peelers for the dp. ahhh...shattered dreams. ; )

Jack...i hear ya on Daily Dale. i never really thought about it in the right perspective until i checked that article. that cat is a charger fo'shur!

hmmm..is it quittin' time yet?

oh yeah...Surfing Giants...sweet flic! overall, i thought it was very dogtown-esque without being annoyingly self-congradulatory. rather, it paid appropriately serious homage to some of the most notable giant breaks and the giants who rode/ride them throughout time. the modern footage was (of course) killah, but the historical footage stole the show for this kid. now my only question is "who has the biggest set?" -- Noll, Clark, or Hamilton? i really can't decide. all three are frickin' amazing in their own way.

Its that time.....

Hey E where do we send the SASE?

Ornitholigists and BASE Magazine reprazent!
Swell is PASSING the OB wave gardens, too steep. Seal Rock can't even rope 'em in from the corner today.

Congratulations "e" for jump-starting your mag! Cover looks awesome. I've got an idea for a photo issue, lovingly called "Grainy Pictures of You and Yer Buds..." :) ;)

MONKEY MILK!

Still that time.....

Its like me buying a new board, "which color do I choose...."

Yeah, definitely baby blue....

shigarette an a flan?

fahjah

fahjah

fahjah

jshoint an a waffle?

oh, most definitely black!! wow! thank you Kaiser! thank you God for inventing the female posterior!!!

if i go with red...do i get both of 'em? ; )

why choose just one color? i prefer one of those multi-color tint jobs...

Surfed in SMC, and to my surprise, the parking lot was FULL of SC heads. Was SC THAT bad today?

Probably too late to get any responses, but does anyone have hook-ups on oshmeal, ripcurl, or xcel wetsuits? And does anyone know anyone who wants to buy a (used twice) size XL billabong 4/3? Blakestah's right, less than 50 days away, it's gunna get cold real quick! Any takers?

the jetty was firing about an hour ago, took this pic from the lot as i was changing!!

now i'm worried about the rep haole kids from kaimuki/ moiliili get

kaimuki/ moiliili is ghetto, at least where I lived.

Kaiser- check your email for an update.

Me? I'm married to a really beautiful/smart woman so I never look at pretty girls. In fact, I didn't even notice them on the site- I was deeply interested in the commentary.

Question to our female blog friends. Would you like to partner with a male who doesn't act like a stupid teen around girls in bikinis? Even when he's old? Enquiring minds want to know.

hey blakestah, did it look like one of these

tugboat
i don't begrudge your opinion and even find it valuable, but it is weird to see the old neighborhood through another's eyes. i guess things don't register the same for kids. we used to paddle across the ala wai to get to the beach as kids. until we saw the coroner pulling a corpse out of it...

oln keyword of the day.

So you found a puffin? I always used to look at the puffins when it was nut-numbing cold and think to myself "it's so fucking cold here that there are penguins in the fucking water".

Cute little birds. The animals have been acting weird around here lately. I saw a skunk not 5 feet from the water yesterday, on the sand. Then there was a hawk ripping apart some other bird on a lightpost 1 minute later. There are thousands of huge perch and stripers right on shore right now too.

I predict an earthquake any minute now.

goodmorning,

You must have kept up with the tetnus shots while paddling the ala wai, brah, since you're still here typing and not in a coma.

Maybe I was overdooing it calling kaimuki ghetto, in reality it is a very vibrant, multicultural, cool place, that I miss like a mother. I was just thinking about that polynesian strip joint by go bannanas?

Once you think you're better or above anybody, just watch Lance Armstrong dominate.

Instant humbilation. Lance is the f_ing man.

I didn't do a full taxonomy on it. It had substantial white on its head (inconsistent, in general, with a murre), and had black webbed feet (inconsistent, in general, with a puffin).

It was about 6-8 inches tall, and found in less than an inch of water in the shorebreak.

Looked like a penguin to me. I'm still curious what it was.

I will soon be upon you all like your predicted south swell.

Just checked Kellys. Tides low but the conditions are the glassiest i can remember since last fall. Once the tide fills in it will definately be a fun logger/begginer kinda day. One last note on the phenomena of yesterdays "Earthquake Weather". It is forboding feeling to anyone who remembers Loma Prieta but the weather we had before the East Bay Hills Firestorm was just as "unusal" to say the least. The weatherman on KTVU (who surfs) attributes all this to the remains of that tropical storm that came off the mexican coast. Any truth to this weather/earthquake feeling weve all noticed?

...oh i almost forgot.....
There are also PLENTY of fishing boats along the beach. Oh to be more intimately apart of the food chain again.Fall must be getting closer.
50 more days until Sweet September.

calcoastlurkerscruffmanfalsemachobravado
norcalhoodiesuckme

BVB is just a transplant from LA
Never goes out when it's big where I stay
Tries too hard to be a part of the culture which is getting pretty gay
Even trannies like Doc Reneker and Chris Issak say "get out of my way!"

BVB, this winter I will spray you with spray!

Saw a guy die on the beach this morning near the Chalet. Not sure if he had a heart attack or OD'd or what. EMTs seemed to think it was an OD, although he didn't look like the type to me.

Prior to the EMTs arriving a surfer and his female friend stepped up to do CPR while all the walkers/tourists just rubbernecked.

Any one else see this? For the folks that tried to resucitate him, I hope the surf gods send you waves galore and personal offshore winds for the rest of the year.

jesus ryan, that's horrible. let's hope karma pays off for the people who tried to help him out....and vice versa for the others.

papa 11 ft. 'nuff said

Morning Niceness Peeps

I hope everyone had fun saturday and enjoyed the beautiful weather at the coast.Seems like it was the first time since april i think i went for a surf and it was nice to remember how much fun it is. I couldnt believe the peaky little waves i lucked into and the clarity of the water was just as stunning. Shadow is right thou about there being a lot of "Life" in the water at the moment. Aside from the dive bombing Pelicans i watched a pair of dolphins stuff themselves. Anyway, im going to visit a certain pointbreak in south africa rumored to have good waves and wanted to ask if any of you peeps have some advice,tips, do's and donts.Thanks all.

So just how do you get in shape for surfing a 200 yard pointbreak? Anyone?.......

sure is nice to catch some waves, however infrequent and whatever the quality. my weekly sojourn to OB paid decent dividends this AM on the low low tide. mostly fun waist to chest with random 8+ wave sets at headish high at the north end of OB, sucking out over the waist deep water. much fun to be with buds laughing and sharing waves.

i'm shopping for a new general use board. i have a 6'7" pintail from SF that's good in good waves, not so good in choppyish, windswelly summer stuff. any suggestions? i've heard thicker swallowtails, fishier things might be about right. i'd like shorter, floaty, not too too loose.....

hope y'all got some.

getting in shape for 200 yard pointbreak? wish i were you . enjoy it

OB this morning? It was pretty strong onshore even at 7 am. Are you sure you got clean waves there? Despite the fog, I was able to check it and thought it looked pretty terrible.

I got the clean but smallest waves of my life farther south all by myself. No other takers except a few pulled up as I left. 2 foot tubes. Heh.

The south is in. This afternoon saw headhigh+ at the best southswell spot in SF. Easily twice the size of other spots nearby.
Nice rip too.

Take that 6'7"

Knock it down to a 6'3"

Add 1.5 inches of tail width. Keep the wide point width the same, maybe move it back a little to 3-4 inches back of center.

Maybe add a little thickness for float, if you like.

Bingo - you have a smaller wave board...you can go with a small swallowtail, or a rounded tail, or squared off, doesn't matter than much,

Most people are happier with a wide-tailed shortboard thruster than a fish. You can be like Kaiser and call it a fish anyway just to be cool.

RFS, ridden loose, goes like nuts in tiny mushy waves.

But if you cannot find one on the rack at SF, by the time a custom gets here it will be September...44 more days.

Yep; fun sundown session west of a certain stupendous highway.

And John Schultze at SF says he can turn around a custom clear-finish board in a month right now. But he convinced me to buy a used board, since my needs--a first shortboard--are not very specific or demanding. He suggested something like 7'2" and 20" and stuff, but, kook that I am, I argued him down to 6'6", 18.5" and 2.5"; a Nev with those parameters was in the rack. He kindly offered to take it back in exchange if on trying it out for a while, I were to decide that I might like, say, a 7'2"x20" board.

First time out with a shortboard . . . not bad! I caught several waves, got a quick ride or two, . . . seemed kind of like surfing! Yippee!! I found two of OB's notorious rips, though---sobering.

Never, and I mean never, expect a shaper to finish a board in less than six weeks no matter what he says.

Don't expect the unreasonable, a custom from most local guys will be 6 weeks to three months. Some are much longer. Just plan ahead. If you want a board for riding a lot in the next three months, buy used or off the rack. If you want a board for October, order it in June.

I got a board in 2.5 weeks once. It was like a friggin miracle, I still brag about it. Smelled like resin the whole first week I had it.

cool quote

"Dream as if you will live forever, live as if you will die today"

anyways, rock on.

oaktown daddy or any other takers, i have a 6'3" pearson arrow, small wave, swallow tail for sale. i'll get you the dimensions and tell you more specifics if you are interested.

oaktown daddy or any other takers, i have a 6'3" pearson arrow, small wave, swallow tail for sale. i'll get you the dimensions and tell you more specifics if you are interested.

re: morning surf

AAAAAAUGH!

re: AAAAAAAUGH!

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We make a living by what we get, we make a life by what we give.

You`re alive. Do something. The directive in life, the moral imperative was so uncomplicated. It could be expressed in single words, not complete sentences. It sounded like this: Look. Listen. Choose. Act.

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