E's Surf Report

Wow, those OB pics make it actually look pretty decent out there. I surfed in the morning yesterday and never saw the sun so clearly those were taken later in the day. Looks fun!

I scored some waves somewhere this morning. Pretty fun and not too crowded. Got myself into 8-10 little nuggets. 2 stand out. More importantly, this fog is really SPOOKY! I headed out alone for the first 30 mins and I felt like I was just floating bait. Everything worked out.

Props to E for his premier edition of BASEmag. I checked it out at Aqua on Saturday. From the peeps working behind the counter, it was a pretty popular item. People were calling and coming in specifically for it so I think they were a bit intrigued. Even better, means that it could be a good place to advertise for shops and what not so E can keep it rolling.....

E - Could your back problems actually be related to doing extensive Yoga stretches. I understand that it is common for beginners to mess their backs up when trying various yoga exercises for the first time.

wow, nice south yesterday...went out late morning with the long board expecting knee slappers ...was surprised to find shoulder-head high set waves with fun screaming drops, wishing i had the short board in July ....yeehah

cool.. right on Kaiser.. yeah.. if you'd like to advertise in the next edition.. i could print more copies or maybe even do a few pages in color...

also.. the second edition of base-mag is already in the works!!! if you have ideas of stories or features or you have photos you'd like to submit send your stuff to cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

thanks!

this morning I felt a bottom turn like I had not felt for some time.

Felt pretty good.

back from socal. the south was hitting down there too, but man was it crowded! warm water and no wetty made up for it though. surfed a bunch of spots in OC and SD county.

e, hope your back gets better and glad to hear BASE mag is out!

I'm jealous of everyone that got waves this weekend or this morning! agghghh!!

sarge's photo

Saturday was small at my parking lot, but how often do you get to share fun, shoulder high waves through the slot with four other guys? I'll take it.

Should have stayed at OB on Sunday. But the fog was so thick I couldn't see squat. Fortunately there's this spot near a slide. Beautiful, beautiful, day. Mark the wave magnet.

Next time you paddle out at Ocean Beach ride a good one for Hal Satler.

I'm told Hal was "one of the first local rippers" and "when it was big, Hal always stood out"

I heard he was around 65, well liked, well respected heavy water OB pioneer.

Aaargh! I hit it too early yesterday. Noticed an occasional real swell but finished my session by 9:30.

e- I had very similar back problem two years ago. got it from extra-hard paddling on a big day after not surfing for two weeks. basically, there are ligaments along your spine, with the muscles, and it sounds like you probably tore them a bit. they heal, but it can take 6-8 mos. not fun. get on the 800mg of vitamin-I a day if you're into doing medication. Have been watching the surf every day from my apt. while nursing a new acl.... such is life.

Let us all pause for a moment to consider the remarkable career of David Eggers; a blond San Diego goofyfoot who in the early 80s acquired the best amateur record in the history of surfing. However, like many child prodigies, Eggers succumbed to the temptations of fame, and his surfing career evaporated in the hot haze of drug abuse and mental illness. As schizophrenia set in, the memory of Eggers’ victories and rookie contract receded into the past, replaced by a sad life of debauchery. Remarkably, inspired by his Australian counterpart, Occy, Eggers staged a dramatic and unexpected Millennium comeback; re-inventing himself as one of the most innovative and celebrated figures in American Literature.

EARLY YEARS:
Take a look at the shot above: Little Davey, posing for a photo shoot in his cramped bedroom. He’s already amassed so many trophies and killer Canyon thrusters that he can barely walk to the bathroom. It seems so obvious now, looking back, that the poor tyke scarcely had room to breath; let alone grow into a mature adult. Why didn’t his parents and Rusty Preisendorfer (shaper for Canyon) take note of the growing pressure his amateur streak was putting on his young psyche? It’s a shame they didn’t notice until it was too late, because young David Eggers had so much going for him: A speed-blur fast, radical approach that favored the big move. A mercenary, cold competitive instinct that would not be seen in surfing again until the rise of one Kelly Slater. A sick pair of old-school Nikes with red swoosh. And perhaps best of all, a quiver of Rusty-shaped rockets that had beautiful, hand-made glass on fins, matched to the color of his airbrushes. Does anyone remember how much better glass-on fins worked?

GOING PRO:
Eggers’ competitive drive was his greatest strength. It also led to his downfall. "I was so possessed with the sport, it was like, 'I have to win,'" Eggers remembers. "I didn't really have any good friends my age because I was so serious playing the game. I was winning every single heat, and I'd be so confident I'd sometimes leave the water early." Peers did not appreciate Eggers’ arrogance. Famously, Eggers told Surfer Magazine “There’s nothing better than looking into somebody’s eyes and seeing the agony of defeat.”

At 15 Eggers dropped out of 10th grade and went pro. He signed a big-dollar contract with Gotcha and went on tour. In 1986, the pro tour was a maelstrom of fierce Australians, steely-eyed Hawaiians, loose groupies, hanger-ons, booze, grass, and cocaine. It didn’t take the spindly, pubescent Eggers long to piss off his rivals and seek solace in blow and bitches. For awhile it worked. Eggers was on a bullet to the Top 16. But the real test of any pro is the North Shore, and for Eggers the North Shore was where the wheels fell off. Gotcha placed Eggers in the team house, under the protection of his “teammates.” The Gotcha team included Martin Potter, Michael and Derek Ho, Cheyne Horan, and Brock Little. Like everyone else around Eggers, they were sick of his attitude. I don’t know what really went down that winter…but the Gotcha Team doled out retribution, both subtle, overt, and chemical. Eggers trusted his heroes to be his friends, and as a result he returned to the mainland a shattered wreck.

THE DOWNSLIDE:
Eggers disappeared from the pro scene. Gotcha dropped him like a hot potato and turned their back on his implosion. He went from being “the next world champion” to living under the Pacific Beach pier, freebasing coke, disowned from his family. Rumors swirled that he was turning tricks to finance his habit. He still surfed Big Rock, often with a reckless, crazed brilliance. In 1990 he turned to Christ after almost dying in a plane crash. Eggers took a shaky shot at sobriety, and attempted a media comeback. It was not to be. In 1997 he was diagnosed schizophrenic. I used to surf Big Rock with Eggers, around that time. He had wild eyes, deep blue with trouble brewing beneath the surface. I’d nod hello, and David would look away; begin muttering to himself about Christ as he twitched and sprint-paddled towards the deep take off zone.

THE RESURRECTION:
As the century came to a close, the surfing world turned its eye on the improbable comeback of Mark Occhiluppo. Occy fell nearly as hard as Eggers, riddled by addiction, glued to his couch. His weight ballooned to Brando-esque proportions. But somehow Occy willed himself back to the top, eventually winning the 2000 world title. It seems that Eggers noticed his old rival’s phoenix act. A return to brilliance was charted, and Eggers began the slow road toward the execution of his master plan. Remarkably, David Eggers eschewed his former area of expertise, choosing instead to direct his considerable talents towards literature.

Few would have predicted the viscous trajectory of Eggers rise to fame. With his debut book, A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius, Eggers carved his initials into American Literature with more ferocity and precision than any Occy frontside snap. The accolades and sales followed, exceeding the expectations of even ardent admirers.

The grandiosity of Eggers’ accomplishment is, well, staggering. But some questions remain.

Eggers book is described as “The literary sensation of the year, a book that redefines both family and narrative for the twenty-first century. A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius is the moving memoir of a college senior who, in the space of five weeks, loses both of his parents to cancer and inherits his eight-year-old brother.” As Booklist noted, “ ‘A memoir,’ says the book's cover, ‘based on a true story.’ Readers are advised in the preface that ‘many parts have been fictionalized,’ but it is not really clear how much is ‘real’ here and how much is spoof.”

Although Eggers purports to reveal every tragic and embarrassing detail of his life, upon reflection it is clear that he chose to hide much of his past. What of his amateur career? No mention. Beating Rabbit Bartholomew in a pro-am at 11? No mention. His smashing debut on the ASP world tour as a 15-year old rookie? No mention. What really happened that winter on the North Shore, in the Gotcha Team House? Which team mate pushed Eggers’ fragile psyche over the edge? Brock Little? Martin Potter? What form did the abuse take? Were the groupies hot? In A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius, Eggers never reveals these most intimate and coveted of details.

Eggers has gone on to great things in the world of literature, but he seems to have abandoned surfing altogether, erasing its painful memory from his life story. He lives in Marin, yet I never see him out at local spots. He seems content to invest his time in the literary journal McSweeney’s and 826 Valencia, a literacy non-profit. His old friends from the surf world can only look on in awe, thankful for little David Eggers’ resurrection. The literary world has gained a true original; a genius, some might say. But for the rest of us, who stalk the crowded line-ups of California, we can’t help but wonder, “What if?” Tom Curren was the first and last ASP World Champion from California. Eggers should have challenged Slater for the Crown.

We miss you, Davey. It’s never too late; please let surfing back into your life.

e- i have been struggling with similar back pain for a number of years. the key to recovery has been to back off rather than push through pain, in yoga and otherwise. pushing through kept me in bad shape for years. yoga of the gentler hatha and iyengar varieties has helped a lot. iyengar is particularly effective as there seems to be more emphasis on form and less chance to hurt oneself trying to get into the posture incorrectly. now i get out if i hurt and make sure to ice and take advil after strenuous sessions. i feel like a candy sometimes but am spending far less time injured. frozen peas work great for ice packs, reusable and cheap. feel for you bro.

e- i have been struggling with similar back pain for a number of years. the key to recovery has been to back off rather than push through pain, in yoga and otherwise. pushing through kept me in bad shape for years. yoga of the gentler hatha and iyengar varieties has helped a lot. iyengar is particularly effective as there seems to be more emphasis on form and less chance to hurt oneself trying to get into the posture incorrectly. now i get out if i hurt and make sure to ice and take advil after strenuous sessions. i feel like a candy sometimes but am spending far less time injured. frozen peas work great for ice packs, reusable and cheap. feel for you bro.

oaktown daddy or any other takers, i have a 6'3" pearson arrow small wave board for sale. It has a swallow tail nice and wide throught the back with a crowned deck making it easier to get from rail to rail. i'll get you the dimensions and tell you more specifics if you are interested.

For the last week I've had the same pain between my shoulder blades on both sides of the spine. I'll have to ask my PT/Anatomist/Professor wife if we're doing something dumb while paddling.

Lewis is now the official blog historian. Interesting and wonderfully written stuff, guy.

hats off to e for a killah first issue of BASE!! i grabbed a copy at Aqua and read it at the beach yesterday periodically looking up to see if i could find my lady-charger or Kaiser scoring sumpthin in the schloppy conditions (this was pre-south evidently). i wasn't out there as i have come down with a nasty ear infection so i too am outta the water for a little while. figures that now a true groundswell is here! arrrrghhhh!!! oh well...hopefully i'll be back in the water soon and that first ride will be all the sweeter for the absence.

e...sorry to hear about the continued back issues. sounds similar to what i have from time to time. i recommend some icing and a massage is always a good call.

lewis - another interesting history lesson!

e - on the back, take care of that thing. i've learned (albeit far too slowly) that if you don't let things heal 110% you're going to be repeating the same injury over and over again. be easy on in, hell september ain't for how many days now blakestah?

word.. yeah.. if my back doesn't heal for months, rather than weeks.. this might turn into E's jazz guitar report rather than a surf report because i seriously might not be able to deal with the surf talk without myself surfing.. that is torture of the highest order!!! If i'm injured for a while and can't surf.. all the surf mag subscriptions get cancelled, all the wave-photos taken down from my walls, base-mag gets halted, etc.. i just can't deal with it. Hopefully it's not that serious.

oh yeah, swimming really helps, too. just start really easy so there is no pain, like work up from 4 laps adding a lap a day. you'll be back in action in a month.

thank you lewis. it now all makes sense and yet is still a mystery.

bird hit on something huge. when i quit playing waterpolo/swimming i developed the WORST back troubles. i got back in the pool in college and the pains went away, quit and the pains came back. i never got back in the pool, gradually i think my back got used to just being weak and adjusted, but i have noticed a HUGE difference between swimming and not. also, doing serious ab workouts has helps. you can combine your swim/ab workout by doing dolphin kick (basically the kick you use while doing butterfly) with your arms in straight out ahead of you.

Quit pimping SF and your back will feel better. Run ads and you'll blow an achilles tendon.
The doctor is IN!

E, we will get you some serious drugs and I will drag your ass to surf if it gets that bad! Halting surf mag subscriptions? What are you, fucking crazy?

Lewis, nice fucking post once again! You deserve the "E's Surf History" section for schwizzle.

Tomstah - where were you this morning?

Bruce, clearly I should have taken your advice on Sunday. Those shots look nice! I never did see the sun yesterday. Well, I did in Burlingame but that doesn't count.

Speaking of Burlingame, does anyone find the new "pull your g-string up above your low-rise pants so I can check out your ass" fashion trend a bit offensive? Yeah, I hate it too.....

Example below:

Lewis! you're the man with the history lessons! i'm going to package them and put em' up in local's corner.. if you don't mind..

Dr. Karma..you're probably right homie. shiiet..

about the swimming.. yeah.. i'm going to try to get in the pool.. i was a competitive swimmer all through elementary school and junior high so i know the dilly. I swam a bit last weekend and my back felt ok.. i think that it's the prone position while paddling on a surfboard that my back doesn't like.. but.. yeah.. i'm going to try to get back in the pool..

thanks heads.

e - rest & recoup. Don't push it too fast and you'll be o.k. when the surf gets good again FOR REALS. Don't let a flash-in-the-pan summer south tempt you into prolonging your healing process - Fall is coming!

lewis - Great Stuff, thanks. I had no idea about the extent of Dave Eggers' surfing past. But then I was in a deep, deep fog of my own throughout the '80s. I didn't surf AT ALL that decade - spent a lot of time at 16th & Mission, didn't snap out of it until the summer of '89. Eggers' scene on Valencia is a very cool place to check out.

Great story Lewis, I usually couldn't care less about pros, but that was facinating.

Had one of the best sessions of my life this morning, big head high to maybe just overhead grinding lefts, but I'll never say where.

bird, hook me with the 6'3" pearson details when you get the chance.... thanks

Hey E, if it's the paddling that hurts and swimming helps, it's time for you to start bodysurfing.

There's a lot to be learned from bodysurfing, and you won't have to shun surf-talk from your life.

By the way, the Eggers profile was Toad's idea. Thanks for the notion, Toad -- hope you liked it.

the closest i got to surfing this weekend was seeing riding giants last night..ill give it 8 hats.

E try accupuncture(?)..i hear its the shit for back pains..

nice Lewis!..it is a bummer how messy that guys room was as a kid. did y'all know Eggers did a comic in the Gaurdian for a few years as well? smarter feller..talk about multi talented...

E, that van with "Titan the Killer Whale" was right out in front of my home last week. Uncanny! I stopped and stared at the photo, too, thought to myself "Willy rips Mavs, wow I'm glad they freed him."

Surfed a moody O.Beast yesterday, lots of current, swell more whimpy than its size would have suggested, even on set.

For da back you need "positive undulation" to fix it -- that requires a willing female partner, though (it's a complimentary technique). I just wanted to say "undulation" today. Thank you very much.

-MM

Crime Notice: had my wallet and cell phone (and ~$3 in change) stolen out of my car while surfing on Saturday. It was parked on Lower Great Highway in clear view of Java Hut. No broken window, they must've jimmied the lock. I know I'm not the first; surfer's cars are clearly being targeted. Keep an eye out for one another. Fun foggy waves this early AM.

i had a little b day gathering last night. amd work at 9.

what time were you out?

too man stah's around here these days.

oh yeah...and i dig the straps out the side of the jeans.

one time in tap plastics.....

let's just say there was almost a clean up called for aisle 7.

lewis,
in all seriousness...if you were writing like this for one of the mags, (TSJ, Surf[ing,er]), it would be a step up for them.

Nice job.

Back Pain Notice: I've found Arnica to be a usefull Homeopathic remedy for this kind of pain. I use to have back spasms and 30cc-200cc Arnica was very helpful. I have a batch mixed up and ready to go if you want it.

proud to say i don't receive TSJ or ER and ING in my home.

Looking forward to BASE....and may buck up for the SurfersPath for a test...

one more tip that just came to mind: while paddling it can help to bend your knees, it relieves some of the tension in the back.

From a brief web search I gleaned this bio on David Eggers on Surfline http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/eggers_david.cfm. It seems that Reality Check is correct: David Eggers 80s the surfing prodigy and Dave Eggers the 90s author are not the same person. Still good stuff, lewis. Thanks again.

Ahhhhh! Early lunch drive to Blakestah Beach. Greasy burger from Doggie Dinner. BASE mag from Aqua. Watched a few peeps charging the wind tunnel. Word on the street is that the planets and stars have aligned and Pimp's Bay is working. After work?

E- Whatever you do, don't take aspirin before stretching. My expert pals tell me it's very easy to hyperextend your parts and worsen the injury.

Regarding BASE Volume 2, all the stuff on my site is fair game if you need marginal photographs or bad jokes.

Anyone hear from Lance (Whitey) Harriman? He was one of my wife's students and came back a year or so from Hawaii to open a private practice. Haven't heard from him and the email address I have for him is bad.

lewis - so, am I just really fuckin' thick in the head? Was that Dave Eggers/David Eggers bit a spoof? Ya' Got Me!

Yeah, I think I missed the punchline on the Dave Eggers/David Eggers post too. Definitely different guys....

Many surfers have literary talents- read the following review:

Jeff Clark's first collection, The Little Door Slides Back, was hailed as an unclassifiable classic in underground American writing: "Remarkable for its liveliness and intelligence" (Chicago Review), "Amazing and ambitious" (Rain Taxi), "a 120-page spell" (American Letters & Commentary), "A happy sadomasochism, a luxuriance of prurience" (Boston Review), "Devoted to the idea of possibility in the poet who operates as free agent, looking to the weather not for the springs of dailiness but for some message from the aether" (Arras).

jeff clark..is there drama in the mavericks/HMB world that he discovered that place? and surfed it for 15 years or something all by himself? i mean its super crazy if its true..just seems kinda..i dont know..crazy?

Sandow Birk
Sovereign of the Seas
1996 Oil and Acrylic on Canvas
43" x 54"

just for the record, i for one knew that the eggers i used to see charging big rock and windansea was not the guy who wrote AHWOSG. but the namephreak is pretty funny - i wonder if the author knows about the surfing prodigy? by now i suppose he does...

What's up with you dudes tacking on "Stah" to your names. You guys are really suckin' it hard core.

eg pimp

*BURP*

God i'm fat.

kaiser - it is disgusting, the whole pulling the thong up. i MUCH prefer the wearing the pants low over the thong pull up.

e! Looking forward to BASE, haven't gotten it yet...maybe I was too early checking SF surf? Anyhoo made seriously agonizing decision not to surf today, even though the waves sound good! My back is sore and couldn't for the life of me figure out why...whhhyyyyyy whiiiiine until I remembered I've been in the water, like 6-7 days a week, despite zero size or working conditions. Duh. My neighbors just see me and laugh now. It's finally a real surf day, arrr. But a several month injury just isn't worth it, I know all too well! Have faith and take a day or two off. Oh, and thanks to no surf today I'm working on some arty pages you might want for next BASE? Chicks in wetsuits, sharks, that kinda thing ;)

Bruce! Lance H. was my PT when I busted my neck! A+++ on that guy, great work and better help than any doc by a mile. Also accepted with grace months of bitching from a certain landlocked wannabe surfer. He has a practice in Potrero hill. Can shoot you his work info later.

OK, so Jeff Clark doesn't publish poetry. But Lewis started this.

oh yeah...da pipe

Sharky- way weird. My wife has a yearly party at our house for the PT students. When I got back into surfing about 10 years ago Lance came over with the gang. Gentle, humble, young guy. We talked about surfing and then I saw his two-page Mav's photo in Surfing. Talk about feeling like a kook!

If you've any particulars, da' wife and I would like to say hi to him.

That guy Lance was in one of the early Mavs vids....he got worked blew out an eardrum and was off the emergency room.

All before 8 a.m.

Lewis -

You should submit that Eggers piece to the literary Dave Eggers. His magazine/webmag McSweeney's is so whacked-out that they might print it or post it.

Hey Redworm, was that you I met at The Sandow Birk/Marcus Sanders opening last winter?

I remember talking to a guy from Wired about a surfline article I did. Was that you?

e,

since you've been recommended everything else, I thought I'd throw in chiropractic as another option for your back. Get a spinal x-ray while you're there to check things out.

Like E, I'm also a surf gimp. Sprained an ankle pretty badly three weeks ago. Two weeks ago I went body surfing at bizarro OB. (OB, San Diego, is anti-SF OB. In bizarro world, OB has small waves, blue skies and girls in bikinis.) Last wednesday I cast off my crutches and started walking slowly at the advice of a nurse friend. Thursday morning I did a quick dawn patrol, using my 7-foot board as a knee board and wearing my splint. I couldn't belive how wonderful the ocean water tasted after being away for 10 days. Last night with my splint, I stood a bit on my long board, though very slowly. OB (OB proper, in SF) at 4 PM was more in the short board height, but being able to stand gingerly on a surf board for the first time in 3 weeks made my day.

So I guess the point of my less than inspirational story is that staying active in any capacity is key. Increased blood flow promotes healing and has psychological benefits that can't be measured.

What's the status of the penguin? Should I expect to be splitting the line-up with guys in tuxedos who rip so hard they even catch fish and eat them during a wave?

Again, Lewis hits a homerun with his info-tainment. Factual errors or not, it's a good read. If this was 1998 and I were a venture capitalist, I'd fund both Lewis and E to have competeing publications. We'd live high on the hog until the market crashes in 2000 and I lose everything and end up living in a basement in the outer sunset. Unfortunately, it's 2002 and I live in a basement in the outer sunet, so E and Lewis will have to rely on our kind appreciation for their efforts. Thanks for doing it for free.

I never heard from the dudes that kidnapped the penguin. My guess is they either dropped it off at the zoo, or roasted it on a stick, either way it won't be back.

EG Pimp, didn't you move to Kansas-stah?

The large cove that people surf really often was pretty mushy at lunch. The water was pretty brown and there were tons of boats spilling oil on the surface. Decent if you need to surf but otherwise, more of a workout then anything.

Uh, Andrew on 44th, it's 2004! That must have been some market crash.

Would you care for some duct tape with that splint? This combo works wonders :)

Do you know Mikey the Architect from that famous spot south of town? Usually rides a green log and steals waves from Mark and Uskay. He's always raggin' at me that I never get his photo. So if you see him there, tell him I got a good one. Quit laying down on the job! (hee-hee)

I read "the little door slides back". It is by a different Jeff Clark and has nothing to do with surfing but it is very good.

Can I get a "beat the Monday blues" Arvo Ocean check from anyone near the G Highway? Gusty? Fussy? Guzzy? forshizzley?

I missed surf for Youssou N'Dour and 8,000 lovely Stern Grove princesses yesterday.
Fabulous show- however, I now need salt on my skin and people in the break room looked strangely as i grinded the shaker against my epidermal layer. Didn't work . need surf.

Appreciated

So, I'm sitting here bored out of my skull at work, and decided to take a look at an old video I got from blakestah, I think. Anyway, this totally got my heart pumping and thought I'd pass it along................................
Damn, can't seem to work it out. Some great footage of OB 121703. Blakestah, you still got this one?

Both E and E are on the IR....

Knitting E is AMPING...

http://erica-lee.org/knit/blog/archive.html

Unfortunately, I found out I have tendonitis in my elbow and I'm not allowed to knit for three weeks. It completely sucks, especially when I don't have any elbow problems at home. I know it's related to work. They've looked at my workstation and told me everything looked fine. If everything was fine, I don't think I would only have elbow pain when I'm at work. I've had to move my mouse to the left side of my keyboard, which took some getting used to since I'm right-handed. It's so annoying. Maybe I need to find a new job, like the doctor recommended. :) I doubt that will happen anytime soon since I'm so consumed with planning the wedding.

http://www.keck.ucsf.edu/~dblake/ob121703_large.mov

The last three waves are Danny Hess, wooden board maker extraodinaire.

Dude, that vid is so sick!!!
Thanks for the archive footage. I'm sure others will feel the thump of DA BEACH as well.

wow...reading about knitting always gets my pulse going....

A neg spot-id being okay (right?), I thought I'd mention that the Jetty is way crowded (or was at 1pm). So I chose an intermediate spot that had size, including some big sets, but not a lot of shape, close-outs galore, and kinda messy at best, despite pretty light winds. The main attraction: only a couple of other surfers on the whole beach. Just fine for kooking out on my new shortboard.

I found B.A.S.E. at SF Surf yesterday 4-ish (when I bought the board). Great stuff! Jaw-dropping moment: the identification of Clarendon Road as a skateboard route. YIKES.

Oh, last night was my first sundown session. Isn't it cool when the wave lurks behind you, blotting out the sun? First couple of times it was this feeling of DOOOOM . . . (appropriately enough, once or twice!).

It's 2004? Crap. No wonder they haven't responded to my applications for "Weakest Link" or "Who Wants to be a Millionaire." I always seem to be behind. Just when I have the macarena figured out...man, being outta touch makes me depressed. A Crystal Pepsi will make me feel better.

shorescrew.com is back!

awesome session, 12-4 at secret northern spot... great effin' swell! less than a dozen guys in the water, tons of waves to myself, chest to head high... walked the nose...

more please.

I'm stuck in the East Bay. Surf is a little flat over here. Oh well, I'm here tomorrow too, so I guess I'll just miss the whole swell.

My 2 cents on yoga. Iyengar's the shit, hatha is a poor second, everything else is wasting your time. You gotta find a good teacher. You gotta have dedication. Start gently 'cause nature abhors sudden change. If you're feeling old and stiff and sore and achy... perhaps it's time to start your practice. Did I mention that you have to be dedicated like doing it every day for the rest of your life? Ok, 3-4 times a week might work too if an hour a day is too much for you.

Mr. Fanning who is missing Jbay due to injuries this year. Shredtacular.

Hey E, don't get bummed out too bad, I used to work on semi trucks and screwed up my back real bad. I could hardly sit comfortably in a normal chair for almost a year, I dealt with constant pain everyday, I was super bummed out and thought I'd never be the same again. I actually had to switch careers from mechanic work to a desk job. It took about a year and half but with hard work I'm now totally back pain free *knock on wood*. I have been pain free for several years now. I do not suggest wasting your money on a chiropractor, exercise is the key to getting back into shape. The main things that I did to heal my back to a full recovery, and continue to do on a regular basis, were: Stregthen lower abs and obliques, increase flexibility in legs, especially Hamstrings (very important), and strengthen lower back muscles, and just general physical fitness. Of course getting x-rays and checking into physical therapy solutions are probably good ideas if you think your injury is severe. I also got my back into shape through swimming and gradually getting back into the water through body boarding. The fins really help work your back. It's also really important to do good stretching right after surfing while your muscles are still warmed up. While sitting in that cold water you can get really tight. Hope you're able to get back into the water real soon. Just know if you are in pain right now your body is trying to tell you something, but with proper care, and a non-permanent injury, you should never have to deal with back pain. There are also some great books on back care, you can even find some in your local library.

DM
Detroit, MI

Lewis -

It wasn't me - I missed that opening. Heard from buddies that it was cool, and their book is amazing. I wonder how many takers they had on the multi-thousand $ first editions? As for the (other) Wired guy, I wonder who it was - seems we've got a lot in common.

hahahahahahahahha!!!!!

E. Long time reader never posted before. I now live in LA, but grew up in the Moon. Go see Nancy Newbold (check SP) in El Granada. Less than a mile from the Jetty. She is the greatest chiropracter of all time. She will do you right.

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