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Lookin’ pretty good

A bit blustery, but well within surfable range at the beach this morning. Shoulder/head-high peaks crumbled and peeled all along our 3-mile stretch. I was somewhat surprised to see absolutely nobody surfing as conditions looked fairly attractive. The small windswell doused the inner sandbars with a smattering of quick, junky A-frames. On a July 2004 scale of 1-10 I’d give it a 7. On an overall scale of 1-10 I’d give it a 3. Zippy drops and precise cutbacks and lip-flicks looked possible. I also saw what looked like a few micro-barrels. The wind blew with strength out of the SW but hadn’t caused irreparable damage to the ocean surface as of 6:45am.

Yesterday after work there were a few takers. Definitely wind-whipped, definitely sub-par, definitely surfable. Probably a repeat today for all the post-work crew (dusk-patrol).

Soo… my back is getting better everyday. It’s to the point now where I can start to get psyched on surfing again because I know I’ll be healthy enough to soon paddle into some waves. Footbag and yoga last night. Again this morning. I’ve also been doing a lot of crunches and they feel really good on my tight back.

Soo.. in the interest of getting jazzed to surf again.. I’ll fantasize through the steps of catching and surfing a wave.

1. Lineup micro-positioning – Before the wave comes you feel your way around the lineup, responding to an instinctive understanding of where to position yourself. Not too far outside. Not too far inside. The logic of this dance is perhaps the most profound and difficult-to-attain aspect of the surfing mind.

2. The wave approaches – You see a wave on the horizon that has your name on it. Immediately begin to anticipate its trajectory and predict how it will break. Paddle resolutely to the requisite spot and line yourself up for the takeoff. As your skill increases over the years, you position yourself deeper and deeper within the soon-to-break wave. You try to maximize the length of peeling section forthcoming and try to give yourself a chance for a little backdoor barrel on takeoff.

3. The takeoff – As the wave begins to push from behind, feel it lift and carry you of its own accord. Hopefully you see a glassy ledge begin to gulp-out underneath. A few solidifying paddles for good measure and you should be in the wave and ready to stand. This could be my favorite moment in surfing. The wave is sucking out. You’re committed. You’re accelerating downward. You pop to your feet and stay low and balanced. You set your line.

4. Off the bottom – You barely hold-on through the drop. Hopefully the wave is vertical, overhead and glassy. If you’re on your backside maybe you’re pigdogging and seeing the wave toss-out over your head as you take a high line, speed-burning toward the shoulder. If you're on your frontside you're vibrating with speed, crouched and low, turning hard off-the-bottom. Looking up onto a arcing, conical surface.

5. Down the line – Hopefully at this point you’re traveling at mach speed, in perfect balance and have a long, thick, svelte wall of unbroken wave-face-canvas in front of you. Come off the bottom low and pouncy. See a point on the lip that is beyond vertical. Extend up toward that spot with all your might. Explode into the lip with your entire essence. Push out your back foot and extend your turn as far as you can. Recover with fluidity, letting the wave guide you back to the pocket. Pump for speed. Be the wave. Create. Express. Enjoy.


in ASP news.. Andy Irons won at J-bay, beating Hedge-hog in the finals. Kelly lost in the quarters to the Hog. Sunny made it to the semis. Andy looks primed for a 3rd strait world title. I'm not sure how i feel about that. Regardless, the dude's on fire! He had three in-and-out barrels on one wave yesterday. damn!

Over 1000 unique visitors every day this week here on the niceness surf report. 1,335 yesterday. most ever! also first time over 100 comments.

also.. who wants to get their post-work jam on? Caveman? Lewis? Marco? Klooless with the Pro Reverb? I have a good jam-spot. Anybody play the drums want to rock out today after work? Let's get our jam on.

which also reminds me. What do y'all think of putting together a niceness party/show/event. Rent out a space. Get some bands in there. get some art on the walls. Surf photos. Surf film projected on the wall. Maybe some spoken word. definitely mucho alcohol. ganja. Anybody know a good space we can rent for cheap?

j-bay

AI

AI - with a Sllluuuddddddgggee!! turn


im backing AI i hope he takes it again i think i crossed over after i saw that movie about him..

would like to see slater take it in a tight race though. also parko..

ps for you skate heads..you can skate the bowl and see the Xtreeme art show at ybg for free if you bring a skateboard..

Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 10:37 AM

Surfed Kook Kove at the butt crack of dawn. Southie wind wasn't killing it too bad. Some shoulders at the Northish end but you had to dodge some mini-mackers that were not too friendly. Further south was more forgiving and more mushed-up/closed-out. Classic for the Kove.

Posted by: Lizard at July 22, 2004 10:41 AM

legalize or monetize?

or both?

Posted by: tomstah at July 22, 2004 10:41 AM

legalize or monetize?

or both?

Posted by: tomstah at July 22, 2004 10:41 AM

damn the waves are gone down here. trunkin' weather though.


With all these trials and tribulations I've been affected
And to top it off, Starks got ejected....

Posted by: hermosa at July 22, 2004 10:46 AM

Best seshie this morn in a while. Highlights (and lowlight)
Backside, mushy closer, hit the bottom turn, and made the section on the RFS. This, to me, is the goal - getting a board that will make these sections - the ones where you need to be ultra efficient at converting "towards shore" speed into "down the line" speed. The basic bottom turn - around which all shortboarding revolves. And this one wasn't such a great wave - but it told me the board was doing its thing. Later, another bottom turn, into a thick face, then closing, and I leaned on the fin and it propelled me into a face first dive through the back - nice.

Last decent wave I got was a frontsider. I've been going barefoot to re-connect with that feel, and I put my foot too far back. It's all good, gonna make this phat drop, but I'll never hit a decent bottom turn with my feet both far back. I carefully re-position the front foot forward, just in front of my "wax line" on the board. Foot goes off the front, I go oooof. Gotta put some wax up there.

Oh yeah - surfed with just one other dude, he of the brown mottled face. He was doing much better than me.

Posted by: blakestah at July 22, 2004 10:47 AM

e! glad to hear that back is getting better. surf tomorrow? no, don't push it. it's harder to get motivated to go out on these foggy mornings without ya man.

saw riding giants. thought it was ok, but nothing mind blowing. dogtown was much better.

Posted by: lerm at July 22, 2004 10:47 AM

some thoughts after reading yesterday's and other days threads and comments on "locals" and crowds:

-we all came from somewhere else at some point, so any distinctions of local vs. tranny are relative to where in time you draw the line.

-isn't it funny how a "local" usually draws that line right behind the point were he or his relatives moved over to this coast?...anyone 10 years or longer, anyone who went to highschool in the sunset, anyone born here, parents born here...i would bet that the second to last distinction would eliminate 99% of the posters here and the last would eliminate 99.9%

-even if your grandparents came here, how do you think they were received by those who already had their stakes in the ground...how did the Mexicans/Spanish colonials feel...the native tribes?

-it's a crowded world, we're all in it and connected in some way, there is no choice but to find a way to get along. surfing gives a unique pleasure and joy to those that invest time and effort. whom of us has the right to say that after us, there is no more room? the bigger days control the crowds far better than some grumpy person who wants it back like the old days (those halcyon days right after his parents moved from somewhere else vs. a more recent transplant who made the foray into new territory himself)...that kinda brings up a good point-- which person has worked harder for the pleasure? the guy who was born sitting on top of it?

my 2 cents

Posted by: tranniesallofus at July 22, 2004 10:53 AM

OB: abdicating this oh-so essential ocean reporting service today in favor of Andrew On 44th's OB Fantasy report. What's going on out there, A?

Hey Blakestah - ah so that *was* you out there this am. I was busy entertaining my dog and I think I saw one of your punch-through-the-back-of-the-wave maneuvers. Looked cool from the beach - that board has a lot of momentum!

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 22, 2004 11:02 AM

yeah.. but did your grand parents grand parents go to high-school here? If not, beat it tranny!

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 11:11 AM

I don't know how to post pictures, but here's a link to a shot of a great wave with a surly looking local defending the inside...

http://magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0408/feature6/index.html

I'm inspired to abandon "duckdiving" and try to develop a "hippo-diving" technique for bigger days.

Posted by: can't go left at July 22, 2004 11:19 AM

Rogue waves:

http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&cid=1540&e=3&u=/afp/science_sea

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 22, 2004 11:28 AM

Hey Heads

Headed to El Salvador next week. Anyone got any recommendations for where to stay/go while in El Salvador. CK - understand that you stayed in / near Zunsal (Torgugas??). Is the beach nice for my lady to hang out on (i.e. not to stinky/buggy).

Based on E's expereince, i was going to just hang out around the central coast but a local had just told me that I gotta go east (i.e. South) and check some of the unspoiled spots down there. Feel free to email me directly if you don't want to name spots etc.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Gracias

Posted by: traut at July 22, 2004 11:31 AM

E,
Nice rendition of the ride. Blakestah-careful on that takeoff. I tore my hamstring last year placing my backfoot too ar back - beyond the tail. Donkers-ganga is not a surf spot ;)

I finally saw Stepping Into Liquid. Kinda interesting and kinda boring at the same time. Too much talk and not enough action. Sounds like me a little too, actually... Anyway, I'd like to see more surfing and training and preperation stuff like that. Any suggestions for a video?

Posted by: Dennis at July 22, 2004 11:31 AM


morning with sickness
heaving slabs of whitewater
the tide is too low

fin breaking surface
i sprint towards the shore
not this time, whitey

Posted by: san mateo county at July 22, 2004 11:32 AM

E, I second the motion to throw a good old fashioned surf rager.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 22, 2004 11:36 AM

beat it! my grandpa went to washington! and my great grandma went to sacred heart! (thats what the hippo is saying)

Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 11:39 AM

motion to hold niceness bash - aye

so does anyone have any advice (good or bad) regarding maintaining a decent local session count and a program of very occasional international surf travel, while also keeping good relations with a nonurfing girlfriend? not trying to turn this in to dear abby or anything, but anyone has a story I'm all ears, I'm flailing right now.

Posted by: eric at July 22, 2004 11:47 AM

E, I would second that production.

That could motivate me to get all my Super 8 footage together for some form of projection! Since I don't have any musical talent (or I have yet to embrace it), this can be my contribution.

Oh, I can also "asses" the talent if needed.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 11:48 AM

Eric, I am the master! CK has some knowledge as well.

You are measured at how long you can hold the opposite sex at bay by not giving in to any of the following depending upon where you are in your relationship:

1) The Move-In
2) The Engagement Ring
3) The Shared Bank Account
4) The Wedding
5) The Kids

There are more. But I have yet to cross those.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 11:52 AM

******Immigration and Localization Update*********
********DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURTIY***********
In an effort to thwart overcrowding at surf spots it will now be requireed to register with the Dept. of Homeland Security your place of birth and the addresses of the last 5 places you have lived. This will assist in determining the pecking order in surf breaks within your region. Consideration is based upon tenure at a given spot. If this is deemed in-sufficient you will be asked to produce a history of your parents, grandparents and great grand parents for further review.
Enrollment in this program is mandatory by 8/31/04. go to www.homelandsecurity.gov/locals for further information. Thank you.

Posted by: Tom Ridge at July 22, 2004 11:54 AM

cool.. i just received an email from my friend Brett who might have a line on a good/cheap space to have the bash. Anyone else know a good spot? Kaiser.. your super-8 footage would be rad. We would also all be super-psyched if Bagel and some of his cronies could hang some of their dope art on the walls.. especially Bagel's porn paintings! Maybe sharkbait could hang some of her rad stuff. Hans Blix and the Inspectors could play a set. We could have a bikini contest! (kidding). word.. i have a feeling that this is going to go down.

I'm thinking Sept. Mid sept. beginning of the season.

hmmm..

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 11:57 AM

aaa wise words..another good one is the "if im happy your happy" and vice versa. but my girlfriend never lets me go surfing so dont listen to me..

party? i

Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 11:57 AM

Eric,
Getting in some surf without pissing off significant other isn't too hard around here, especially this time of year. DP during the week (if possible) is a time that doesn't count against "couple time", so go after that with gusto. I also find early weekend mornings are okay--surf in the morning, home by noon, afternoon/evening for the honey.

That's the program I've been on for a while--seems to work most of the time, but I still can't go left--any advice?

Posted by: can't go left at July 22, 2004 12:03 PM

eric-

a) dawn patrol, dawn patrol, dawn patrol.

b) get her in the water.

c) on (surf) trips, spring for a nice room one or two days a week. a few days with hot water and no bugs helps a lot.

Posted by: g at July 22, 2004 12:04 PM

"would bet that the second to last distinction would eliminate 99% of the posters here and the last would eliminate 99.9%"

I'm that .1%. Don't name spots on yer little board, don't paddle out with yer buddies to the peak I'm sitting on alone. I'm not spooked by sharks, big waves, hitting my head, so I don't need you next to me.

Try transplanting someplace else, this place is already transplanted out. Be original, OK?

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 12:23 PM

I'll second the dawn patrol concept. Weekdays, this can be lumped-in with ....goin' to work hon', see you tonight. Then on weekends, you're back before she or the kids are out of there PJ's. It also helps to return on the weekend DPs bearing gifts (munchies, morning paper, langerie (sp?)).

Posted by: Jack at July 22, 2004 12:23 PM

Does anybody remember Francis from that movie Stripes??? nuf said.

Posted by: Jack at July 22, 2004 12:25 PM

I third the dp tip. The last two days, i had to wait 10 or 15 minutes after suiting up for it to get light enough to go in. i'm going to hate it when weekday dp shrinks to nothing in a couple of months.

e, I like your characterization of the ride--nice to recognize some stuff and see other stuff that I hope is in my future.

Bruce, if I know which Kove you're talking about, I was at the north end, and you're right about the conditions.

Posted by: Klooless at July 22, 2004 12:27 PM

Oh great, now the DP is going to get crowded. Yeah, why doesn't everyone surf in the morning...

Geez!

Just kidding. I had to do it! I love when people get all worked up about this stuff. Makes me laugh.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 12:33 PM

And stop naming directions! Now EVERYBODY'S going to surf towards the shore!

Posted by: toomuchcoffee at July 22, 2004 12:35 PM

stop talking about surfing

Posted by: cadaver at July 22, 2004 12:40 PM

Kaiser, please, enough with the S-word. Can you please just say "a certain sporting activity"?

Posted by: Individual at July 22, 2004 12:41 PM

Eric- I've conducted extensive research in this area. See "Surfing Excuses"

http://www.surfhumor.com/silly%20stories.htm

Introduce her to your surfing friends (the ones who bathe regularly and won't hit on her). Then play up the interpersonal side. Women get very forgiving when you're surfing to support a good friend.

Posted by: Bruce at July 22, 2004 12:41 PM

Jimi Hendrix - Driving South.

damn! that boy can play!! farrrkk!! I might have to go school some of those licks tonight. psyched!

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 12:46 PM

Eric - can’t go left and g have said it: DAWN PATROL. Coming home with coffee, bagels and/or croissants also helps. Handy tip: NEVER, EVER beg-off from going out with your sweetie later because you’re too tired from surfing – just suck ‘em up and deal.
Make an effort to seek out and visit the coolest non-surfing cultural/romantic spots available during surf-trips. Also, every third surf-trip be willing to go to a non-surfing destination. Handy tip: Portugal, Spain and the South of France can offer “spur of the moment” go-outs (rental boards can be found), while posing as romantic holiday spots – why you “just happened” to bring a wetsuit is up to you (ain’t got that one down yet).

Posted by: Jimmie at July 22, 2004 12:48 PM

Eric, dump the bitty. If she can't hang then she ain't worth it. Truth hurts.

And please do not bring your chick into the surf zone. There is nothing more kooked out than a dude surfing with a flailing chick. Besides, she may like it and insist she joins you for every sesh. Lord have mercy.

keep pimpin' in 04

egp

Posted by: EG Pimp at July 22, 2004 12:50 PM

i'm a regular foot, whose first groundswell wave was a fantastic left where i popped up, crouched, dug a nice bottom turn, and hooked into a long peeling wall out in Virginia (waves, in VA, shucks yeah!). I haven't gone left with much success since, surfing off and on (when on quick a lot) for 14 years since. that's starting to change though, at our fair OB. it just takes time, and focused practice. for me, it's simply trusting my skills and not caring if i take a few lips to the back of ye ole noggin, popping up as early as i can (after some good deep takeoff strokes), and crouching into my board so i can drive it through the bottom. i still usually kook it, and when i don't, i come out of the bottom turn too early usually, but i'm trying, and getting better. visualize the takeoff... good luck

tryin not to waste them southerly waves...

Posted by: oaktown daddy at July 22, 2004 12:51 PM

Klueless- Yesirrrr, I saw a brave soul way north. I was suprised to paddle over a couple OH sets that were pretty thick.

Ethan- one word (PARTY!) and another activity suggestion, TIRED DEBATES. Key representatives of the name/don't name, Enforce/don't enforce, like cams/hate cams, Mavs/Jaws debate teams will take the podium and make their best arguments until there's a fistfight or everyone falls asleep. . . whichever comes first.

Posted by: Lizard at July 22, 2004 12:52 PM

Oh, E. I saw Hendrix in concert a bit before his tragic death. Guys getting carried out on bad acid trips, volume high enough to make your ears bleed, and lots of sweet smoke to make you high without taking a hit. Listen to Band of Gypsies if you haven't.

But Zep was still the best other-worldly concert. (This is referred to as old fart gloating)

Posted by: Lizard at July 22, 2004 01:02 PM

Lizard,

What are you going to wear to the niceness party?

Posted by: Karkus at July 22, 2004 01:05 PM

So it seems like a few of you take your non surfing wives / girlfriends on surf trips?!!!??? how the hell does that work I can't imagine it.

does anyone date a hardcore surfer? Ive wondered what that would be like, seems like there would be pros and cons.

Posted by: eric at July 22, 2004 01:05 PM

EG, totally agree. Don't bring your woman into surfing. If she wants to do it and learns on her own, then fine. But so many guys try too hard and you end up with double kook.

BTW, what is up with the "raver" couple out in LM a few weeks ago? Drive up in yuppie wagon at 10 am when I'm getting out cranking lame house music. Leave said music on LOUD while suiting up slowly. Don't see how that can be called surfing. Can't wait until winter and a little more loneliness. At least they don't show up till you're getting out.

Posted by: Nate at July 22, 2004 01:06 PM

oh and jimmie is right... NEVER say yer too tired to do something she wants to do later on....

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 01:08 PM

oh and thanks all for the tips. weekend dawn patrol is a tough one for me if i socialize on friday or saturday, not a morning person and i don't surf well hung over. summer time i'm more into the dusk session on weekends

weekday dp works, my start time at work is fleixible, part of the problem is i end up working late and even weekends a lot as it is, so free time is somewhat rare and hotly contested. i guess a new job instead of a new gf might be a better solution

Posted by: eric at July 22, 2004 01:10 PM

hot dog!
surf party!
surf costume party, where everyone dresses as their "monkier".

E dresses as a big e.
Kaiser dresses as kevin spacy
Blakestah dresses as ?
Korwin dresses as a hm... surfer?
bagel... obvious.
ss sharkebait as shark bait.

could be a total disaster.

kaiser - boards are coming along real nice. let me know if you head down to SC for FH in the near future.

peace dudes and dudettes.


Posted by: elias at July 22, 2004 01:10 PM

hendrix's blues shit is so god damn good too

i saw janes addiction a long time ago and some older guy told me that was the closest i would come to seeing zepplin..

Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 01:10 PM

an' Waz up with all youze drivin' from OB to Pacifica? If I had gas money it would be the other way around! WTF is up with that?


Also WTF is up with the car break ins? Are "surfer" cars getting the brick, you know cars with racks and stickers, or is it the low key pimps in the MBZ's and BMW's?

Posted by: Karkus at July 22, 2004 01:11 PM

Today's haiku:
Even in a crowd
I always will surf alone
The doctor is IN

Posted by: Dr. Karma at July 22, 2004 01:12 PM

Date or mary a hard core surfer chick? Dude, you gotta be a hardcore butch lesbo for that.

Posted by: Karkus at July 22, 2004 01:14 PM

Don't buy that stuf... make sure she knows she has to make it worth your while to go out latter if there is any chance it muks up DP.

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 01:14 PM

the who is my favorite band to come out of the music scene in the 60s / 70s. their music still sounds progressive today, stones / zep/ even beatles sound kind of stale and definitely dated. Floyd is kind of forgotten but also stands the test of time for me. To me hendrix is in a different category - basically he's an alien.

Posted by: eric at July 22, 2004 01:17 PM

good grief...

Hey, where is my hot coffee and croissants after I've been flailing around for DP?!

Oh well, no time for travel or classy breakfast - I need those hours to add to my collection of forearm tattoos.

e - in for party art, etc...

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 22, 2004 01:20 PM

Posted by: kaiser made me do it at July 22, 2004 01:21 PM

my friend married this girl. he rips, she rips. seriously. amazing surfers.

for their honeymoon, they saved up enough to travel the world for a whole year. france, portugal, africa, indo, maldives, austraila, fiji, hawaii, etc. you get the point. 12 MONTHS of chasing SWELL. Totally amazing pics. They scored. They also are still married. Still happy and still surfing.

note that they met at a surf contest, so they both were on the same page of surfing, though they don't compete anymore. something pretty darn special... they rock.

Posted by: elias at July 22, 2004 01:22 PM

bay area,
gangsta style,
listen to me motherfucker,
I've been here for a while

you need to step back,
take a look at your self,
analyze that shit in a mirror,
bitch I'm gonna put you on the shelf

Posted by: Karkus at July 22, 2004 01:25 PM

trannies are us or whatever, i'm in your .1% as well. i think that boosts the percentatge of us "grouchy" "entitled" locals based on overall visits to this site to .2%. Meaning we still qualify for minority priority status! wooo hooo

eric, a good beach chair, snacks, water, favorite reads, and a good meal at a killa resturant apres session can turn the most unwilling girlfriend into loyal surf supporter. plus you've already spent the neccessary connecting time so when you get home you can get busy and shag baby! oh ya

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 22, 2004 01:32 PM

ill do you like a tsunami
and send you back to your mommy

Posted by: OB at July 22, 2004 01:32 PM

Single-fin Soul

Boiling cauldron,
wave is all a frown
Single-fin’s fast
but curtain’s coming down
Pump that round pin
and duck in low
Things are getting dark,
please don’t slow

Minutes feel like hours
Time has come to a halt
All the colors of the spectrum,
come shining through the vault
No sound can be heard,
but my heart thumping fast
Ecstasy and fear overwhelm me
How long can it last

Posted by: Dave at July 22, 2004 01:34 PM

Fake spot surf report:

At LMNOP, just a short drive from anywhere, the double overhead seems be holding for today, although I suspect it will be there tomorrow too. The Coast Guard showed up to clean up the beer-spill...with fudge. Not many people in the line-up, which is a shame, because Free Willy showed up and was jumping through flaming hoops and doing back flips in between sets.

As for thousand-plus hits on niceness, 800 of them were probably me. I'm like one of those mice that gets cocaine when he hits the red button. I got shit all to do at work this week.

Posted by: Andrew on 44th at July 22, 2004 01:37 PM

Look at that left!

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 02:04 PM

Kaiser-thanks for tormenting me with that picture--everything about it is off-limits for me.

Signed,
The married guy who can't go left

Posted by: can't go left at July 22, 2004 02:09 PM

Apropos of nothing much in particular:

The Code of Chivalry

1. Thou shalt follow the dictates of moral conscience.

2. Thou shalt be willing to defend your values.

3. Thou shalt have respect and pity for all weakness and steadfastness in defending them.

4. Thou shalt love thy country.

5. Thou shalt refuse to retreat before the enemy.

6. Thou shalt wage unceasing and merciless war against all that is evil.

7. Thou shalt obey the orders of those appointed above you, as long as those orders do not conflict with what you know to be just.

8. Thou shalt show loyalty to truth and to your pledged word.

9. Thou shalt be generous and giving of ones self.

10.Thou shalt be champion of the right and good at all times, and at all times oppose the forces of evil.


One of the more interesting things I found while reading Caught Inside was the notion that there are essentially two kinds of surfers.

A) Those who seek the holy grail -- the perfect wave

and

B) Those who want to slay the dragon -- ride the biggest wave


Generalizations break down pretty quick but there's an intriguing grain of truth to that, I thought.

So which is it, for you?

Can't-go-left: try visualization excercises. There was a point at which I was having a lot of trouble surfing backside as well as I do frontside. Visualization helped. So did spending a lot of time in the water working on mechanics, paying attention to stance, shoulder spread, etc. I found that spending equal amounts of time 1- consciously working on technical things and 2- free surfing without thinking about them at all, was a productive mix.

Posted by: g at July 22, 2004 02:21 PM

cant go left; if you are regular footed like me try to face the wave anyway like pivot your shoulders so that you are turned and can look at the lip easily. i guess this only pertains to a backside turn up the wave.

Posted by: tom curren at July 22, 2004 02:30 PM

Eric- You're not going to believe this, but I won't go on a surf trip without the wife. In the early years of relationships there's that "clinging-can't-be-apart" stuff but after after some time you mellow and just want to see your partner happy. So I do the dp and then take pics, the wife walks the golden retriever through the woods or hangs out on the beach, then we hook up in the afternoon for some together time. I find that a lot more fun than spending a week in a hut with a bunch of smelly guys. Certainly provides more options in between sessions. ;-)

Zepplin at their greatest/weirdest. Robert Plant super skinny with some kind of white make-up all over his face. The sounds so mystical and etherial you felt like you had landed on another planet. All this out of an english blues band? Best song for sheer sleaziness: Hey Hey, What Can I Do?

Posted by: Lizard Blog Hog at July 22, 2004 02:39 PM

Posted by: ryan at July 22, 2004 02:44 PM

G and personal surf hero (tom curren)--thanks for the tips.

I like the visualization advice--sounds obvious, but as I read it I realized that whenever I think about surfing (ie, when I'm falling asleep at night, when I'm daydreaming at the office, etc), I see myself going right, with my right ear screaming along a smooth wall. Unfortunately for me, spending a lot of time in the water doesn't necessarily equate to riding a lot of waves to practice the visualization.

TC--your comments fit nicely into my new visualization.

Posted by: can't go left at July 22, 2004 02:45 PM

Lizard - Nice on the Jimi and Zep shows. I have both Band of Gypsies CDs (set 1 and 2 or night 1 and 2??) Did you see one of those shows with Jimi and Buddy Miles? That would be epic. Sounds like you're a heavy Zep fan.. They rule.

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 02:48 PM

yo K'thorp Nomad -- sickness with the "Dreamscape of Rufus". i really, really enjoyed it. very well written from a literary point of view, and more importantly, extremely solid with its spiritual/natural perspective on harmony. i read it on a sunny beach yesterday, in the hour in between two sessions... small Atlantic windswell, perfect no wind sea texture... I was zenfully amped when I got back out there, and zonefully flowed through the session in tune with my own peak. i can't imagine a better environment in which to have read the story. i was thinking of you while out there in the groomed and empty waves, pulsing with the rhythm of Tao-God-One-Love. Last note: steep drop left, speedy twin fin bottom turn or two around some sections, grab the rail, hug the wall, and let the ocean's energy throw its holy room around you to echo with your divine symphony.

e, B.A.S.E. mag rocks!!! congrats and nice job!! twin fins rock too!

Posted by: j.o.c. at July 22, 2004 02:51 PM

1) DP on the weekends, most people (including the wife) don't want to get out of bed either
2) Panic is the closest thing to a Zep concert (at least it used to be until the sitting guitar player passed away)
3) First book I read was the biography on Hendrix, the guy is definately an alien

Posted by: kookdom at July 22, 2004 03:01 PM

oh yeah, if anyone wants a Panic bootleg shoot me a line.

also, I am in on the party action. will bring the good ole' guit-fiddle and my beer gut.

Posted by: kookdom at July 22, 2004 03:03 PM

kookdom.. jam today after work? I'm jonesin'!

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 03:09 PM

j.o.c! Dood! thanks so much homie!! that's cool. I'll tell K'thorp that you liked it. You're the first person to comment on that little piece of over-wordy fiction. There were some solid ideas in there but it was difficult to translate em' effectively from the mind's inner sanctum to the written word. Very cool that you tapped into what was being effused. Kinda similar theme to your music/surf piece.. which is rad, btw.

nice on the east coast session.. sounds awesome.

homie..

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 03:13 PM

can't go left - for some reason i'm a regular foot who does better in some ways going left than right, especially turning off the top. i think it's from snowboarding, especially half pipe - so if you do that you could try to transition some skills. i think skating could serve the same purpose, especially the carving boards but i don't know for sure cause i gave up skating at about age 16.

Posted by: eric at July 22, 2004 03:19 PM

Django Reinhardt - original ripper

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 03:21 PM

damn, E, I wish I could. Gotta go farkin' south bay after work to visit the fam.

let's try and jam sometime in the next few weeks though. I am good plugged in or not, no biggie to me. wife just bought me a fatty bass too, kinda fun smackin' the low end from time to time.

I also want to get down on that downhill skate track you found. Used to live at 10th and Lawton and I used to bomb down those hills all the time. hope my 7 year old downhill deck can take it though!

Posted by: kookdom at July 22, 2004 03:22 PM

i cant believe that guy didnt have all his fingers.

Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 03:26 PM

Elias, I am thinking about FH Saturday so let me know if you need me to pick you up anything.

Should know for sure tomorrow. Just give me the laundry list. I can grab foam if needed as well.

Later

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 03:43 PM

reality check.. that would be rad. kick me an email at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com

thanks!!

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 03:54 PM

from the art show at the yerba beuna

Posted by: e at July 22, 2004 04:13 PM

Posted by: kaiser made me at July 22, 2004 04:19 PM

Eric,

I know how to end a relationship. I've seen it a few times... like yesterday. Did a PM session and it was total victory at sea and thumping due to the heinous mix of ground swell, windswell and chop. Nothing big, but ugly and mean: It was definitely not a beginner day. Anyway, some guy paddles out with his girlfriend and she is just petrified. He just surfs away while she just trys to dodge the double-up grinders. After about 15 minutes of it, she heads in. So why do guys do that to their g-friends?

The September bender sounds rad.

Posted by: dano at July 22, 2004 04:31 PM

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Posted by: bagel at July 22, 2004 05:15 PM

Thanks for the advice all, some of you must have skills i lack, especially lizard. i can't imagine a bigger disaster than a surf trip with my current girl friend, for me and her. i'm stoked to travel without surfing, so thats cool, but it would be nice to travel further than north baja for more than 4 days every once in a while. I'm already resorting to the dp, I guess I'll have to step up the latte and flowers program. thats if there's anything left at this point.

Posted by: Eric at July 22, 2004 06:02 PM

busy day...late post.

traut....you lady will be pleased with Sunzal and, likely, so will you. it's not exactly "resort" quality beach, but it's plent-o fine. as for the east...i didn't have time to hit it, but i heard great things. plus, in my books, you can't go wrong exploring!

eric...you have likely received tons of advice already (i have yet to read through ALL of the posts), but here's mine: the best way to maintain a sweet sesh count and the sweet luvin' of a lady will depend upon the lady. if she's athletic, loves the ocean, and is interested in/intruiged by surfing, encourage her to try it. with your guidance she'll be a welcome (i.e., etiquette-respecting, full o' niceness) addition to the line-up and will likely progress quickly. while others seem to be disgusted by the thought of "having to surf with her all the time" from my perspective there's nothing finer than a sweet sesh with your lady where you get to watch her fly down the line and kick-out with a HUGE smile on her face. (well...maybe your own killah wave and post-sesh luv-nuggs may be better, but other than that...; ). this is, as you may have guessed, my fortunate position and i can honestly say that surfing has brought us closer and is a big part of our relationship. if your lady isn't inclined to don 4mm rubber and get the sh*t beat out of her by NorCal mackers, then i suggest letting her know how important surfing is to you and, at the same time, trying to time your seshies in a way that shows her that she's important too (unless, of course, it's OH and glassy! ; ). at the end of the day, if that ain't working then (for once) i'm inclined to agree with the Pimp's advice. ; )

Posted by: ck at July 22, 2004 06:14 PM

ANGER he smiles shining in shiny purple metallic armor QUEEN JEALOUSY ENVY waits behind him her fiery green eyes stare at the grassy ground. BLUE ALL THE LIFE GIVING WATERS- TAKEN FOR GRANTED HE QUIETLY UNDERSTANDS, once happy TURQUOISE armies lay opposite ready but wonder why the fight is on? But we all as BOLD as LOVE, we all as BOLD as LOVE, we all as BOLD as LOVE- Just ask the Axis
My RED so confident it flashes tokens of war and ribbons of euphoria. ORANGE is young and daring but very unsteady for the first gone round. My YELLOW in this case is not so mellow, in fact I'm tryin to say, its frightened like me and all of these voices inside keep holding me from giving my life to a RAINBOW like you, But Yeah, I'm BOLD as LOVE, let me talk to ya, I'm BOLD as LOVE - Just ask the AXIS-she knows everything....

Eric- been there- sounds like you are trying hard to keep something alive. Make sure you are keeping yourself in the Primary. If a surf trip would be a TOTAL disaster, then you might be barking up a wrong tree and shit, the world is covered with TREES.

FIESTA?? QUE RICO!

Posted by: steama at July 22, 2004 06:27 PM

Why don't you clique.com mothufuckers take this here website and shove it up your pimpMOMS ass.

Stay junk art.
You try too hard.
You think too much.

Blakestahstallhard.

You assume it all and will get nothing.
We are organized against you:
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Posted by: BLAM at July 22, 2004 06:44 PM

and that concludes our programming for the day...que the star spangled banner....

Posted by: jdz at July 22, 2004 07:26 PM

is it gay to post anonymous? or queer to post under a "new" name?

that is the question.

BLAM....any thoughts? confessions? closets to come out of?

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 08:17 PM

I love surfing

Posted by: hee hee at July 22, 2004 09:15 PM

I love the anger. Feed it more. You have no idea!

See you in the lineup. Don't pull back because we are all watchin!

My 7'10'' is waxed and ready to go!

Posted by: Kaiser at July 22, 2004 09:49 PM

Freak waves spotted from space

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/3917539.stm

so that would be in the dragen slayer catagory :)

Posted by: at July 22, 2004 10:27 PM

BLAM BLAM have a nice day.

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