small, crumbly, doable.
Again with the small, crumbly, onshore windswell. Doable if you’re jonesin’. I saw one logger making his way out at VFers. I also noticed a few attractive lines out there. Once in a while a wave would hold up, firing off a seductive, inside racy section. If the wind would only chill-out, the swell could be quite enjoyable. Little A-frames and peaks streaming in and breaking on the inner bars. Blakestah predicts a mellowing of the wind for tomorrow so be on the lookout all y’all surf rats.
In amplifier news. I put a $50 deposit down on a Fender Concert Reverb. I think it’s a ’97. Upgraded tubes. 60 watts. 1 12” speaker. Liquid warmth. Thick, buttery tone. Mucho volume. Mucho clean headroom. No joke. I plan to pick it up today and take it down to the studio where my band plays (Secret Studios). If anyone wants to rock out after work in the studio kick me an email at cranial_bulge@yahoo.com. We can play as loud as we fricken want and there is a drum set too, which i'll gladly play if you want to rock-the-fuck-out solo on your ax.
Soo… I watched some of the OP pro Mentawais video last night, and also some of the bonus footage from Shelter. It inspired me to craft a little E’s summary of a few pro surfers. Enjoy.
Taylor Knox – Carvy. Uses his quads for power. Crouches low and is centered. Good balance. Stylish frontside cutbacks as he spreads his arms wide like bird in flight. Athletic body dynamics. Again really crouched and low in his stance. Bent at the knees with his leading knee almost hitting his chin during turns. Clean-cut. Powerful physique. Draws radical lines even though he’s not often recognized for doing so.
Gavin Beschen – Supernatural balance. Uber-stylish flow and positioning. Huge feet. Really mellow and modest guy. Appears to be a head. Good at finding barrels. My favorite style of any pro surfer. I just like how his body moves. He’s lanky and flexible. He’s loose and jells with the wave. Awesome airealist. Super new-school but also has won at Sunset Beach. Has a cute girlfriend. Lives in a dope house with his brother Shane across from Rocky Point on the North Shore. Seems to lead a charmed life.
Occy – Funny, likeable guy. Has a knack for getting the sickest waves. Not afraid to try weird boards (single-fins and such). Extraordinary barrel rider. Devastating frontside (and backside) cutbacks and gaffs. Extremely powerful, well-build lower frame that allows him to continue to compete at the highest level despite getting close to 40 yrs. old. Can do sick airs. Buries the rail. Desires dreadlocks. Just had a baby. Spent a few years getting fat, doing coke and bumming around. Great acting in “the North Shore.”
Dorian – Smooth surfer. Kinda has a “too-cool-for-school” tude or something. Like he’s “over-it”… which maybe he is. Amazing barrel rider and basically fearless in any conditions. Hails from the big island. Dad owned a popular restaurant. Has had many liaisons with uber-hot ladies. Neurotic about personal training and physical fitness. Really smooth style. Awesome Dorian footage in “The 5th Symphony Document.” He surfs this one ledging right in Hawaii that other surfers like Greg Browning refuse to surf.
Tim Curren – My impressions of his personality are that he’s bratty, spoiled, rich and whiny. I befriended this guy who was his wetsuit sponsor (Japanese wetsuit company “Axis”) and he confirmed my impressions of Timmy’s personality. HOWEVER! This guy is one of my favorite surfers to watch. He’s ridiculously innovative and experimental. Maybe the best air guy on the planet? His video segment in Loose Change is awesome and blows Machado’s segment out of the water. He’s been struggling on the ASP but, the tour is fucking tough and it shows balls to keep striving on the tour when Timmy could definitely be a photo-slut video guy if he wanted. Great style in the water. Athletic and wild.. but he fucking pulls out the sickest moves.
Tom Curren – Oozes style. Extremely radical in terms of top-turns and barrel riding. A pleasure to watch. Definitely a head. Subtle things in Curren’s surfing are amazing. He just always seems to be in the right spot. He hits the lip really really really hard. He surfs with aggression but also with flow. Seems a quiet, spiritual, elusive person. An Aussie that I traveled with in Indo reported getting a sack of ganj for Curren after a contest near Sydney. Then chilling as Curren jammed on guitar with a few local heads. Curren has imbraced Christianity in the last few years. He has a few kids from two different wives. One wife French, the other Panamanian. Kelly Slater talks about visiting Curren in France when Kelly was in high school and watching Curren charge these crazy beach-break bombs while Kelly watched from the beach, deciding not to go out. Kelly talks about Curren’s intense work ethic, both with the surf and with the music. The dude is an inspiration.
I wanted to add photos but work beckons..
also.. speedy recovery to Nep, who almost died after suffering a heinous bike crash. Get better quick Nep!!
yes, but it ain't BC
Posted by: organdonor at July 29, 2004 10:24 AMSanders
Posted by: mjs at July 29, 2004 10:28 AMAnyone have any suggestions on orbital sanders? I want to use it for some ding repair but mostly around the home kind of work.
MJS, CK just did some ding repair with an orbital sander. He's got some k-nowledge there.
Posted by: Kaiser at July 29, 2004 10:36 AMSpeaking of Curren, is there any word aboout that new record he had in the works? I watched the guy play in that video"A Curren Visual" by drater films and he rocks!looked like a fender in his hands......
Posted by: easy at July 29, 2004 10:37 AMquote from recently retired 27 year old ricky williams,
former nfl player:
''Marijuana is 10 times better for me than Paxil.''
Posted by: korewin at July 29, 2004 10:45 AMAny small orbital sander will do fine. Good sandpaper is the key.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 29, 2004 10:48 AMEven tinier than yesterday, down where small-swell low-tide oh-what-the-hell nuggets can usually be found.
I have a cheepo Black&Decker 1/3 sheet random orbital sander that I was sure I'd replace when I got serious about woodworking and this 'n' that. But damn if it hasn't lasted and worked just fine for 15 years, with considerable use. I guess finish sanding is just not very stressful on a tool. It works great for ding repair, though a smaller one might be more useful sometimes.
I'd love to jam sometime, or at least watch. I can keep a beat on the drums if need be. But first I've gotta dig out the 'lectric stuff, see if it's petrified yet, etc.
Posted by: Klooless at July 29, 2004 10:50 AMtake it from a 5+ year U of O nongraduate, Eugene has the dank.
BC bud is over rated.
Do the purple earkle.
Posted by: kookdom at July 29, 2004 10:55 AMricky williams is my new hero this week..
Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 10:58 AMWhat's this about nep getting hurt? I avoid the SURFER Mag forum and Bay Area Waverider, so I haven't seen anything of his in a long time. Best to ya, nep!
Posted by: Jimmie at July 29, 2004 11:00 AMLike a lot of us, I haven't been surfing in several days. Had some fun on Sunday at a spot south of SF. Found a relatively uncrowded sandbar for a few waist to chest high peelers - lots noserides and drop-knee turns. Just another old kook on a log, but I felt like Phil Edwards! Actually, body-surfing the shorebreak afterwards was just as fun! I'm gonna get in the water later today - for exercise, if nothing else.
e - not to freak you out or anything ... but I've found that sitting and playing guitar for any substantial amount of time really irritates my lower back. Maybe I need one of those footstools like the classical players use.
Curren is the poop.
Posted by: kookdom at July 29, 2004 11:01 AMjimmie - i hear ya on the guitar-back thing. I have one of the footstools. I alternate between standing, footstool, indian-style-on-floor, sitting on bed, repeat. Plus.. luckily i don't have lower back issues..
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 11:04 AMCheck out the video trailer for "The Big Swell" on: http://www.surfline.com/video/video_trailer/index.cfm. Awesome footage on a first-person view of a wave pummeling. I had a tinge of panic attack just watching it.
Posted by: surf-Auburn at July 29, 2004 11:04 AMe, what is the ledgy wave in Hawaii that no one but Shane Dorian will ride? Is it on Big Island? I've surfed a lot there and it has the shallowest, sketchiest reefs in the whole state. I'd love to knwo the name of the break.
I surfed this one spot called Kei'ei in Kealakekua Bay (across from the Captain Cook monument). It was the hairiest reef break I've ever ridden, it just drains over scalpels as these thick watery cylinders pour over it. Wave kinda lurches out of feep water and has no back!
I love BC, I love OR, I love THE BOUNTY FROM HUMBOLDT COUNTY....organique!
MONKEY BUTTER
Posted by: Onanistic Bonobo at July 29, 2004 11:10 AMmjs...i agree with 3to5...likely any small orbital will do the trick. i picked up one for $50 or $50 (can't recall fo'shur) and it's a welcome addition to the ding-repair workshop! faster...and higher quality than hand-sanding (imho). at first, i thought it was a bit small, but after using it for a bit i think that's actually a strength for ding-repair.
in surf news...found a few micro-peelers with Kaiser this dp. uber-mellow and sort of silly given the tiny size, but fun all the same.
is it Friday yet?
Posted by: ck at July 29, 2004 11:11 AMsee now, that does not look fun to me. this summer has lasted too long. i am not gonna be ready for my first winter hold down.
Posted by: steamwand at July 29, 2004 11:14 AMit seems like its cleaning up. is it cleaning up? sharkbait, blakestah, will there be an arvo?
E, ill take up your crusade. i dont have much work today..ha
Taylor Knox.."Uses his quads for power"

Gavin Beschen.."Huge feet"

Gavins art..."Appears to be a head"?

Occy.."Extremely powerful, well-build lower frame"..

Dorian.."Really smooth style" except the polka dots

Tim Curran.."Maybe the best air guy on the planet?"

Curren.."A pleasure to watch"

sorry if i break the blog
Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 11:28 AMGood right up E. Agree with you on the Beschen tip. Love his stylee.
I need to learn some scales, I am floundering on my guitar lately without learning some direction. I am stuck.
It was beyond small in the southbay this morning. Faaaaaaaaaaaark. Enough. C'mon Darby....do something!
Posted by: HermosA at July 29, 2004 11:29 AMGood vibes today. I like it.
Got some micro peelers with CK at a little cove next door to where the pictures below was taken. I rolled out with no leash today. That shit is tough! I figured I needed a challenge today since the waves were about calf to thigh high. It proved to increase my energy output by having to body surf to get my board a few times. Good times. Oh, and CK and I got a beat on possibly the only joint in the bay area where it is possible to get coffee brewed with opium leaves. More on that later.
So, Korewin sent scanned this pic from Surfer or Surfing mag I think from back in '92 or '93. So, since it is public knowlesge, I will name the spot: Rockaway ~ Have a look.....

Posted by: Kaiser at July 29, 2004 11:38 AMOB: it looks absolutely hideous - foggy/drizzly, waist tall [ high tide is really mucking it up ] but enough painstaking scientific data has been collected to conclude that...IT IS SURFABLE! Drop here, maybe a turn. If you must get wet..to hell with the onshores, go for it. And prepare for a shore tour, the current is at warp 9. Also the most gigantic pelicans I've ever seen.
Yesterday evening it also looked hideous. Pre-surf was pounding chocolate, literal pms teary sniveling, due to improved splint also kept slipping off the board during pop-ups [ no grip ] , the ankle connection on my leash spun around to the inside, and for whatever reason was too stubborn to get fixed so I also kept getting tremendously tangled and tripped up...and in spite of, or despite the ridiculous situation, found and landed some actual little drops. Stunning. Missed some popups just because I was so shocked to have caught another wave. Several. Ah sorry long post but it just goes to show you never know....I honestly thought I was just going to go swimming. What a goofy session. Waves..who woulda thought?
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at July 29, 2004 11:40 AMthats the classic rockaway shot..
Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 11:47 AMhrm.
por favor amigos, dump this into the site's css to keep the comments window from freaking out when people post images wider than the window:
.comments-body img {
Posted by: g33k at July 29, 2004 11:54 AMmax-width: 320px;
}
Kaiser and CK,
I was sitting on the edge of the parking lot and saw someone go out this morning with no leash. His buddy followed a few minutes later on a single fin Merrick (kinda orangey??) board. I enjoyed watching leashless guy chase after his board.
Was that you guys? I was wearing the red hoodie.
Posted by: steve-o at July 29, 2004 11:55 AMe: thanks for the optimism in today's report--I don't know if I buy it, but I like the idea of holding out hope for some fun small ones after work.
as for tom curren, I love your description about him "oozing style." I saw him last night on OLN (part of the "Kelly Slater Invitational") and I'm always amazed at what a cool-seeming guy and incredible rider he is. He just seems so in control and calm on the wave and through every gauging, sweeping turn. Then, post-surf he's jamming on the drums. The stuff you post here (E) reminds me of Curren--super mellow yet talented in multiple arenas and willing to share those talents with others (through writing, music surfing and generally cool attitute). anyway...just a note of appreciation and a light comparison.
That Rockaway pic scares me....
Posted by: can't go left at July 29, 2004 11:58 AMI remember far too much about Surfer Magazine's 1986 - 1992 run. I absorbed that shit like a sponge when I was a little kid.
The pic above is of a guy named Brian Zelles, I believe, from Pleasanton. On a 6'3".Surfer ran it in black and white in the Sections area around 1987. They billed it as the heaviest wave ever ridden in California.
Pretty funny to think of Jeff Clark seeing it and laughing, picturing what he was surfing alone at Mavs while the mag referred to that wave as the heaviest ever... At smoke a jay, no less.
A pretty heavy double up, though. Surfer ran the shot again a few years later.
The original caption was "Brian -- Balls like grapefruits, man."
I think.
Any updates on the level of red tidyness this morning? I am one of the afflicted.
Posted by: lewis at July 29, 2004 12:03 PMrockaway insanity
from SURFER mag, "people who surf" july 1996
and he IS on a 6'2"
thanks for posting kaiser.
Posted by: korewin at July 29, 2004 12:03 PMyes, can't go left....that scares me too.
last word on the brain zelles shot...
(nice brainwork lewis) was taken in 1986.
that is the skinny from the blurb..
on yeah and that even slater and the late
jay moriariry saw the zelles maniac surfing
18 foot mavs on a 7'4".
is brian zelles still out there? i want to meet
Posted by: korewin at July 29, 2004 12:08 PMthis dude......
EVAN slater.....not even.
sorry fat fingers and the laptop
Posted by: korewin at July 29, 2004 12:09 PMare not good combo.....
steve-o....that sounds like us. glad you enjoyed the show in the calf-slappers! did we compell you to get in the water or did you take a pass? i vaguely recall someone sitting on the wall when i headed out, but no way i'll recognize ya. next time you see me, give a holler.
Posted by: ck at July 29, 2004 12:12 PMI fucking love surf history lessons! Nice work peeps.
E, forgot to give you a shout for today's post. Nice write up. Enjoyed your take on the surfers. I gotta admit that I used to not like Taylor Knox very much but his surfing has really grown on me. Total precision and total power. Really fluid.
Steve-O, that was me, the "guy chasing after his board". As dumb as it looked out there, it was pretty fun. Could have gone either was after looking at it for 30 minutes in the lot. Yesterday I passed, today I couldn't.
With all this being said, it looks like a J and a surf flick for me tonight! SOLID!
Posted by: Kaiser at July 29, 2004 12:14 PMmy girlfriend got chased down the beach by an enormous pelican a few weeks ago in baja. it had its wings fully extended and was squawking like a lunatic. she was screaming and running. it was hilarious. it really broke up the monotony of a long hike back to town to find someone who could drag the high-centered Subi out of the dunes. glad they're not that aggressive around here.
Posted by: steamwand at July 29, 2004 12:32 PMsteamwand, there will surely be an arvo session, but it won't be here till late October.
Try not to run me over r- I'll be on the Ortega run between 5 and 6.
Posted by: blakestah at July 29, 2004 12:33 PMThrough the wonder of google:
http://www.dcms.com/~brianz/
Posted by: Klooless at July 29, 2004 12:36 PMklooless...
that rules.
the lo-fi is awesome.
plus the solo session stories.......
Posted by: korewin at July 29, 2004 12:41 PMhe IS a nut.
from that site:

Posted by: bbr at July 29, 2004 12:47 PMyes...all that stuff on the rockaway shot is true.
but clark was there that day and did not go out.
also as you would expect, not much ride was left after that pic.
the poor guy didnt make it as too much water was coming up the face and got picked up and did another trip as around weightlessly as the wave continued to go "inside out"
the pic is by don montgomery...a pacifica local photog.
Posted by: tomstah at July 29, 2004 12:55 PMyeah..i heard the guy was from the delta? more sacto but either way a guy that when he gets to the coast, paddles out.
no matter what. (probably including sharks and machine gun boats)
Posted by: tomstah at July 29, 2004 12:58 PMg33k and everyone
click on the "time" not on the "comments" link.. it should open the comments in it's own window.. i should change it so that when clicking "comments" it does the same thing.. my bad.. i'm lazy.
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 01:02 PMLast updated in '96. Shit, he is lost man!
Posted by: Kaiser at July 29, 2004 01:03 PMMaybe it's too late, but we burn out random orbital sanders here at the shop like nothing. I finally decided that the variable speed Porter Cable is cost effective to replace and a fine sander. If you want, I probably have one here I could pass on for $20 that is around the bend for us/ not variable speed/ needs a new backing disc/ etc... that would be fine for ding repair.
And regarding naming spots, lay off the Big Island, eh- my folks were out there for years and it was nice to visit them and surf alone occasionally.
Posted by: goodmorning at July 29, 2004 01:10 PMkewl.. if you click the "comments" from the main page, it should as a full window, not a shitty popup window or whatever if used to do.
thanks g33k!!!
let me know if you have problems.
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 01:14 PMdamn.. i can't type.
that rockaway pic is Gnarlsburg swiss cheese.
Bagel especially likes it when the smoke-a-jay gets all gnar like that.
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 01:16 PM"Last updated in '96. Shit, he is lost man!"
Aren't we all?
egp
Posted by: EG Pimp at July 29, 2004 01:16 PMCK/Kaiser,
I decided to pass on going in this morning. I drove further down the coast and was not enticed by anything south of Half Moon Bay, either. If the waves pick up I'll be back tomorrow for DP.
Posted by: steve-o at July 29, 2004 01:21 PMlewis, what do you mean you are one of the afflicted from the red tide? Physical or mental? I feel sick (throat/nose) and was surfing for 3 days in a row. Only thing good about red tide is that cool luminescent glow at night time.
Posted by: Ian at July 29, 2004 01:32 PMKook Berto would go! Big Rockaway gets me soo whoreney:)
Posted by: pez at July 29, 2004 01:32 PMthis reminds me of some rockaway shots i took a couple seasons ago:
Posted by: g at July 29, 2004 01:34 PMme & 2 others were out for the dp just a bit south of where kaiser & ck hit it. it was tiny everywhere i checked, but a few places looked clean enuf to have fun on a log. this was my third time out on the rfs, very pleased to report that the skinny little 6'8" worked great in today's tiny olas. trigger finger is getting itchy, don't know if i'll be able to wait to demo it in bigger surf before placing my order...
here's a hydrodynamic question for all you board theorists: i swear that it's actually easier to paddle the rfs demo (18.5 wide 6'8" rounded pin) than it is to paddle my prodanivich reality check (20.5 6'6" double wing swallow tri). is that possible? any theories on why -- location of center point? difference in rocker? os is it just the difference between a tri and a single fin?
Posted by: loon at July 29, 2004 01:35 PM
Posted by: g at July 29, 2004 01:38 PMthree fins in the water create more drag than one fin?
from Brian's site....a little scary.....
SUN12/3/95
Posted by: devil at July 29, 2004 01:38 PMI get to a very heavily surfed Hot Spot and no-one is surfing these 100yd. rights that are pushing 10' again (3) hrs. with no-one out. Many barrels were wide open and had long, screaming walls outside each bowl. How much fun can you have? I view it as just fun and training for the really big stuff at the places that can send you to where you choose to spend eternity. Life's short, consider what's next!
READ THE BIBLE TO SEARCH FOR TRUTH. SEEK AND YOU WILL FIND!
Surfing solo-sessions is very fun but it is where I consider and ponder and pray to my savior,
JESUS CHRIST.
NO SOLO SESSION! HE'S ALWAYS THERE!
g, those shots are SIIICK!! nice work.
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 01:38 PM1. Zelles is not lost, probably just got married. Formerly of Pleasanton, now Oakley.
2. Whole lotta factors in a boards paddling. fins (shape, cant, toe-in), boards width, length, thickness, rocker, bottom contour, water entry point, rail edges, etc.
Posted by: at July 29, 2004 01:45 PMRed Tide! I can attest that it hurts some peoples sinus really bad. I have a friend up here in Sonoma (John Day) who can't even surf from July-Aug thru Sept. because of it. He's mentioned that it gets really bad up here around Dillon and north.
Luckily it clears up by the time things start firing.
Posted by: Jack at July 29, 2004 01:45 PMian -
I have a severe allergic reaction to the red tide. Complete congestion of the sinuses, usually hitting about 4 hours post sesh. By the time I go to bed I can't breathe at all thru my nose. Eyes itchy and red, ears itch, and throat swells. Lasts about 12 hours, then slowly subsides.
I've talked to a bunch of other surfers who get it, Doc Renneker included. But I get it worse than anyone else I've met.
Potential solutions:
1) Don't let water into your sinuses. Blow air through your nose when you duckdive and try not to fall. Or use a swimmer's nose clip. Get them at Big 5. Look like a freak. Earplugs help too.
2)Decongestants help a bit.
3) Nasal sprays allow you to breathe better but you still itch and feel like shit.
4) Allergy prescriptions like Flonase or Beckonase have worked OK for me some years. But you have to take them twice a day everyday and it can take about a week for efficacy to kick in.
Other remedies? Of course you can also stay out of the water but I haven't really tried that one before.
Posted by: lewis at July 29, 2004 01:46 PMDudeness,
Shot a 78 today at Wilmington. Even par on the back. Life is good.
Posted by: popsofe at July 29, 2004 01:46 PMLoon,
Blakestah is the man when it comes to explaining the drag characteristics of a thruster vs. single fins, but I'll take a stab at it. I think that because the thruster side fins are angled inward you get the extra drag vs. a single fin.
Posted by: steve-o at July 29, 2004 01:49 PMnot to talk golf again, but any of you East Bay heads play rounds at Lake Chabot? f'ing cool, hilly, trippy course.
Posted by: hermosA at July 29, 2004 01:50 PMmy pops used to say when we was threshin' the weeet:
red tide in the mornin' surfers take warnin'
red tide at night, surfers delight
or sumtin' like dat
Posted by: billy bucktoof at July 29, 2004 01:55 PMloon, the difference in paddling can be found in the rocker and center point foil. i would argue that the difference in physical drag between 1 and 3 fins is negligable. in theory tri fins have more lift therefore should drag less. however they create more turbulence which can slow you down due to cavitation.
what fin have you been using on the rfs? that organic looking thing b-stah posted up here a few days ago looked really intriguing as it reminded me of the shape of a turtles front fins/feet/wings??. and they rotate a bit too....hmmmm.... as opposed to a dolphin or shark dorsal fin that look more like a surfboard fin and they don't rotate. hmmm.......
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 29, 2004 01:58 PMsean davey shot from Tasmania

Lennox Head (photo by Matt Rapf)

this looks fun (photo by Shawn McNabb)

Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 02:05 PMLewis, hey I noticed a few weeks ago that you had a spot open in yer house...is that still the case, cause i'm just back in town and need a place to reside. lemme know
Posted by: zotz at July 29, 2004 02:09 PMLoon, where I dp'ed this morning (6:00 to 7:30) I was the only surfer for a while and then two guys showed up together & surfed nearby. Ring a bell?
Posted by: Klooless at July 29, 2004 02:12 PMhey zotz
Posted by: lewis at July 29, 2004 02:12 PMyeah, I got that email you sent; replied today. The room is taken. sorry bro.
hey thanks, lemme know if anything changes and i'll be in touch about some potential business for next summer.
Posted by: zotz at July 29, 2004 02:17 PMkloo: ding ding ding! sorry not to have been more outgoing. i was only out for 30 mins, arrived last & departed first. was my first time surfing that spot and surfer #2 seemed pretty quiet/aloof so i took cues from him. jogged up that hill after for a bonus workout, nice burn. you seemed to be getting plenty of waves. i almost cruised north to you to check on that left -- are you a goofy footer also?
i have a decent enough recollection of your board & head that i'll probably recognize you next time, will look forward to a more formal hello.
Posted by: loon at July 29, 2004 02:24 PMloon - I've always thought it was 1 vs 3 fins.
Especially b/c in the boards I've retro-fitted, I rode them lots with 3 fins and then with 1, and they felt 6 inches longer.
The RFS, ridden loose, gets sketch in bigger waves. But, put the stiffer bumpers in, and its all good. I actually think it is set up for about head high now, I think that one is a little stiff on the smaller waves.
popsofe - Wilmington - in Delaware? which course, north or south? And, caddy or cart? It's Thursday, which means it is ladies nine holers in the morning, don't wanna start behind them, slow as all get out. Say hello to popsofblake.
Posted by: blakestah at July 29, 2004 02:30 PMWas visiting my my aunt and cousin yesterday and we drove out to this beach (somewhere up north) to go for a walk. Never really knew it got as good as it was at this place, seeing as how crappy it's been around here lately. The wind was kind of on it too, about 5 in the pm but still pretty clean and well formed compared to the Beach, which always gets so hacked and trashed with that much wind. Orderly shoulder high walls would perk up now and then and spill more than throw, this place has a heavier rep than I could make out (for its size) and not that many heads were on it. I was pulling my hair out because I didn't bring my board along on purpose, it was more about getting together than my about getting in a sesh. Saw redtide signs of yellowish residues washed up on shore, but the water didn't seem dark or have that opaqueness I remember from last year.
Posted by: cadaver at July 29, 2004 02:31 PMOh, it actually sounds like we were probably at different spots. The two guys I mean came together, talked quite a bit and surfed together, right around me (just north and then just south of me). And I think I left before either of them did. The hill where I was isn't quite as good a workout as the one I bet you mean (which I like to run up too).
Posted by: Klooless at July 29, 2004 02:39 PMkloo: well this was at least a fun exercise in spot naming avoidance. hope to see you out there soon...
Posted by: loon at July 29, 2004 02:50 PMno waves no waves

Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 03:14 PMsorry
Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 03:15 PMLewis, that's crazy man! I thought I was hit by allergies all of a sudden.. That explains it. My sinuses are screwed and have been for the past few days. Thanks.
Posted by: Ian at July 29, 2004 03:15 PMbagel that's funny homie..
Posted by: e at July 29, 2004 03:41 PM3to5setsof7 wrote:
-------------------------
loon, the difference in paddling can be found in the rocker and center point foil. i would argue that the difference in physical drag between 1 and 3 fins is negligable. in theory tri fins have more lift therefore should drag less. however they create more turbulence which can slow you down due to cavitation.
--------------------------
I think you can prove the fins make the difference by taking two off, and paddling around. When going straight, the combination of 5-7 degrees of cant, and 3 degrees of toe-in, means that the side fins do pull the tail down, and do not produce lift.
The board loon is on actually is kinda on the high end for rear rocker - 2 5/8"
Of course, I am frequently reminded the biggest consideration in fin systems is what they can do on a bottom turn, and not how easily they paddle and plane. Those are just bonuses. :)
Posted by: blakestah at July 29, 2004 04:07 PMhe he...theres more..again sorry to anyone who's not into medieval warfare..
http://www.bow.k12.nh.us/CyberBUS/armor%20and%20weapons/armor.htm
Posted by: bagel at July 29, 2004 04:35 PMblakestah, yes you are correct in that context. however the forward motion, and water channeled through toe'd and canted fins simply creates lift as you move forward. additionally the base to tip profile also adds a little lift. paddling you not going to feel the lift. so me thinks it's a draw. now i am really interested in that organic looking fin and it's performance in your rfs board(s). do you have any 411 on how it rode comapred to the traditional fin templates? how is it foiled? and yes a single fin bottom turn is a thing of glory.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 29, 2004 04:58 PMgood morning i'd be down to purchase that orbital sander and kaiser where's this secret coffee spot of which you speak?
Posted by: bird at July 29, 2004 05:17 PMspeaking of which I thought opium came from poppies, which form a bulb not a leaf, from which they get the opiates. No?
Posted by: cadaver at July 29, 2004 05:25 PMSNOOZE
Posted by: Vibrator at July 29, 2004 05:27 PMyawn, snore...
Posted by: key-low at July 29, 2004 05:43 PMAnyone know where I can go to get a rice cooker fixed? I've got a Zojirushi super high tech model. The guy at the repair center stated it needs a sensor or something?
Anyone?
Posted by: Daisuke at July 29, 2004 05:48 PMYou tried calling Zojiroshi?
Posted by: kenny_g at July 29, 2004 05:58 PMYou tried calling Zojiroshi?
Posted by: kenny_g at July 29, 2004 05:58 PMYeah, they want like $70 to repair it, plus the shipping. The thing is bad-ass, but I'd like to find a cheaper repair place.
Posted by: Daisuke at July 29, 2004 06:00 PMDaisuke, you might want to email key-low. He knows a lot of things and can possibly hook you up with something.
Good luck with the rice.
Rice is a good food. You can do a lot with rice. You can make it sticky or dry or to whatever texture you like. You can also cook brown rice, white rice, long-grain rice and many others. I bet some people might complain that the purification of white rice not only strips rice of most of its nutrients but that the process could be harmful to the environment. Think about all the waste run-off that occurs in rice fields all over the globe. Don't get me wrong, I love to eat it when I eat sushi or chinese food or a lot of other asian cuisines.
Along those same lines, maybe you should reconsider eating rice altogether. I mean, I personally like to get my rice from mass produced farms as it is cheaper and puts less of a dent in my yuppie wallet. Probably the same type of rice producer that could careless about our environment just like the guy that sold me my SUV. Others might prefer "mom and pop" type rice farmers which is also cool. But then you could argue that these poor souls are getting paid way below our governmentally established minimum wage. And that is just plain wrong. This is all assuming that the rice under protest here is even produced in the United States. Because if it was grown overseas and imported here, you raise even more concerns. Some such concerns could be the fact that one is spending money outside of US boarders and that is also just plain wrong. Accordingly, some might feel you should be vilified like Nike or Banana Republic or Walmart or BigMajorUSCorp#2 because you are purchasing something which was produced under unfair labor laws. And we all know that is also wrong. Let's not forget that rice paddies as a whole are most likely a really big waste of land. I mean, look at the average dollar earned from the acreage?
Any way you look at it, rice is really just a very quizzical substance. It is still just a basic commodity but think off all the baggage it carries. When you really sit down and look at it, rice cookers are really nothing more then putting a gun in street-punk's hands if you ask me.
But then again, if you read that entire thing I just wrote and it made sense, you are one of the following:
Posted by: Kaiser at July 29, 2004 06:22 PM1) Extremely bored with yourself.
2) Smarter then me.
Shitty Shitty Loserable
-or-
Agnes Dank,
Skank & Skate
-or-
Before 6pm I am me.
After 6pm I am Agnes.
Red tide - surf the red tide. Sound good? Thought not.
GO OUT AND BUY, as in spend the 20 bucks for your brand new rice cooker DUDE. Me? , 'oh I enjoy fried rice'.
In fact we're having a rice cookoff/block party in my hood this weekend. Sticky, Jasmine, Brown, Wild, etc. etc....
Trouble with rice as a substantive food for aspiring SF surf studs is that it burns too fast - other carbs seem to last longer. I burn through rice like a new surfer balzing through his first paddle out at OB. On it BRO!!!!!!!
Worst of all in the surfing world are the poseurs for all you French people out there in surf land. You know the guy; puts all the bullshit he reads about, " learned" and gleaned form the words and pictues in the PROFESSIONAL SURFING MAGAZINES and attmpts to emulate or ape what he has thus far studied. Hint: Start with the basics. If you need help ask.
Surley DA Blakestaller-tuberiding-bettethananyhawaiian--switchstance-supersurfing-guru and former professional-Sunset-powermaster can show YOU HOW???????!!!
Dave?
Media poop - (sorry - highness.org, ) before the actual ability. Sadness in surfing.
I could go on for days making fun - getting all crazy and stupid writing about things like I do but... I digress.
Hardest (hard like as in E your pictures make me hard, specially the one of the crystaline offshore day - one with the black border).
Ugliest thing I've ever seen was watching Curran roll a fatty and not sharing and then seemingly endlessly blithering on about kneeboarding the Ranch - there is a plaque at Lawton Street commemorating this most devine of moments: THE DAY TOMMY CAME TO OUR BEACH.
Left the baggggggg in a musty old box now the cherised sack smells like dank. Sweet musty order. Not good. Shmokes.
Check vw.com for the new bus - it's way cool.
Walk to the beach
...
Posted by: Agnes Dank at July 29, 2004 07:39 PMSkank and Skate is a hit at the YBuena - some stuff. Go.
3to5setsof7 wrote:
------------------
blakestah, yes you are correct in that context. however the forward motion, and water channeled through toe'd and canted fins simply creates lift as you move forward. additionally the base to tip profile also adds a little lift. paddling you not going to feel the lift. so me thinks it's a draw. now i am really interested in that organic looking fin and it's performance in your rfs board(s). do you have any 411 on how it rode comapred to the traditional fin templates? how is it foiled? and yes a single fin bottom turn is a thing of glory.
--------------
It is foiled with wide point 1/3rd back, rounded in front, and tapered sharp (just blunt enough not to cut my leash) in back.
It works better than any other fin I've used in the RFS. It is most noticeable on a bigger day (say, head high and fast, an OB head high), and cranking a big bottom turn. You lean in, and it starts to rotate, and little drive is generated. A few fleeting moments later, as the fin forces reach their limit, you feel the thrust set in, and get flung through the turn. The biggest difference of the new fin template is the acceleration coming out of a hard bottom turn. The traditional templates drag more on the harder turns - the 'organic' template feels really free when it drives you through the turn.
Loon rode it on a smaller day, and I don't think he noticed a difference. I don't really notice a difference until it gets to the harder turns.
The RFS does not bottom turn like a classic single. The fin does almost all the work, and the bottom of the board is not used as much. You do not need to have as much weight back, and you feel thrust. You do not need to lean the board as hard.
As far as the actions of side fins wrt drag in paddling and planing and going straight...the answer was REALLY clear in the boards I have retrofitted. A single 7.5-8 inch deep fin generates noticeably less drag, and planes noticeably earlier, than a classic thruster in the same board.
Even with the RFS, the bumper stiffness makes a difference in fin drag. The loosest bumpers have the least drag when paddling, and stiffening the fin up adds drag in paddling and riding smaller waves. Of course, the stiffer bumpers keep things in line on bigger days.
I certainly believe these are all things that any decent surfer would notice about the RFS.
Posted by: at July 29, 2004 08:07 PMBlessed are the longboarders, for they shall inherit tomorrow's dawn patrol.
Man who thinks he cannot go left always right.
Posted by: Andrew on 44th at July 29, 2004 08:23 PMKaiser.
Buy Lundberg Rice. http://www.lundberg.com/ They are local Cali farmers. Organic and well, just really good rice. Plus the extra energy you will get from eating good food will give you more energy to fend off attacks on your SUV. Yeeeeee HAAAAA.
Aight! I'm off to sleep land where i will dream of rice and other things.
peace.
Posted by: elias at July 29, 2004 11:17 PM
Posted by: dawn patrol at July 30, 2004 06:34 AMnot looking good, not even for a longboard, this morning.
Kaiser,
Go Bush in 2004! Who gives a crap if someone pokes fun at your Escalade! That's your choice and as an American, your right! Rice is for sissy's and we should impose our midwest diet on these left coast granolas. Let's call up our buddies and tell them to move out here. That way we'll price out all the riff-raff.
I'll see you out at linda mar this morning bro!
Posted by: my_sherona at July 30, 2004 07:12 AMAndrew,
Money's burning a hole in my pocket, as I am a successful middle manager at sun microsystems. Anyway, I have a few extra bucks and have only been surfing here since the 1999 move. Anyway, I can't really turn, paddle or surf backside, so I'm wondering if buying some Kelly Slater or Sunny Garcia fins will help me out?
My board is a Wave Riding Vehicles 7'11" egg fun board, dimensions 21", 3 1/4", 14", 18". I'm 6'2" 225 lbs. I surf linda mar mostly and will surf OB when there's others making it a popular break.
Thanks Andrew!
Posted by: Drew at July 30, 2004 07:38 AM-Drew
It's really not looking good for much of anything, except fishing.
The hurricane swell is hitting 2 ft 14 sec from 180 deg, it would be a REALLY good call to go someplace you could see some of that. Because if you can't see that, it's ankleslappers for you!
Posted by: blakestah at July 30, 2004 07:39 AMWell Drew, I wouldn't buy the Sunny Garcia fins as he is too local and scary for our little crew here. Guys with old english font tattoos on their back scare me and decrease real estate values and may impact our investment.
I'd go with the Kelly Slater fins. He's a clean kid who I'd love to have as a neighbor.
Posted by: Andrew at July 30, 2004 07:41 AMThanks Andrew!
That Sunny Garcia guy and all those Hawaiian guys sure have ruined surfing! I'll be sure to pick up the Kelly Slater fins over at the surfey shop. While I'm at it, I may pick up a 7'9" transition board to get into shortboarding.
Posted by: Drew at July 30, 2004 07:44 AMBig Rockaway scares me Drew!
Posted by: Andrew at July 30, 2004 08:01 AMMicrosoft scares me Andrew! Har.. har...
Posted by: Andrew at July 30, 2004 08:02 AMYou up for golf with Scott McNealy today Drew?
Kewl Drew, golf with McNealy!
Have you called up Larry Ellison to see if he wants to surf in the Kelly Slater Invitational Celebrity Surf-Out?
Posted by: Drew at July 30, 2004 08:07 AMbird-
sure the sander is yours. drop me a line at goodmorning@zworg.com
i'll post this in today's fracas too- i returned from yosemite w/ an intestianl bug that made it hard to stick around the office yesterday- thus the delayed response. it is nice when this world wide oracle moves sitting stuff to a user. might have to have a board only garage sale.....
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