E's Surf Report: Yet again it�s small and dumpy

Funked-up Friday. Yet AGAIN it�s small and wind-blown at our lovely Ocean Beach. July 2004 would have been a fabulous month to spend somewhere that's not here. Preferably in the southern hemisphere, on the west coast of south or central America or in Indo or western OZ. But.. If you�re a die-hard Bay Area surfer that�s stuck at home and you can�t really drive 4 hours a day to surf the Slot, then it�s grovel time at local beaches. To make yourself feel better, just think that you could be living in Tennessee like EGPimp, or you could be working 60 hours a week in a cubicle in Toronto, or you could (god forbid) be paralyzed or handicapped or otherwise unable to stand up and enjoy the glide, even on (shitty) waves. You could also be one of the majority of peoples on this earth who have never ridden a wave, never seen that unbroken wave-face stretch out ahead, never taken off and accelerated down the face, never held a high line and pig-dogged as a powerful, conical wave-form enveloped and cascaded overhead, barreling into oblivion.

Blakestah mentions a hurricane swell. It�s weird that the SF buoy is showing 14 second energy, but none of the other semi-close buoys show anything. I definitely didn't see any groundswell juice during my 7 minute check at around 7am. Cali buoy is 8sec, HMB buoy is 9sec. Some of the central coast buoys like point st luis and pt arguello are showing 13 seconds. Man� might be nice to be on the east cape of Baja right now?? Hmm�

Soo.. I�ll continue E�s pro surfer break-down..

Andy Irons � Aggressive. Possessed. Incredibly fast and radical. In �Lost Across America� Andy performs a few of these difficult-to-describe aireal maneuvers that I�ve never seen anyone else do and to this day are hard for my mind to decipher. He screams down the line.. then just as the wave gets really critical and he�s traveling up toward the lip, he ollies 180 up into a floater (leading with his tail), then launches off the lip into another 180 and lands and keeps going. The guy has balls the size of planets. Just giant giant balls. Barrel master. He really deserves to be world champ. Part of the Kauai wolf-pack. A few friends of mine from Kauai say that Andy buries his brother Bruce when you watch the two of them surf the same waves in person. His girlfriend�s a cutie.

AI - getting spat out

being world champ has its perks.. Ladies wear hats with your initials on them.

Casey Kurtis � underrated California pro. Really strong style with graceful, arcing turns. Thigh-burning cutbacks. Fun to watch if you like the big-guys. Saw him trade stand-up barrels at Padang-Padang with Rizal Tanjung. Seems like a chill guy.

Cory Lopez � The most radical surfer earth? Maybe. The skinny kid from the Gulf of Florida possesses unreal amounts of natural wave-riding talent. He's the American Taj. He has an extremely curious and experimental mind in terms of inventing maneuvers and lines. His video part in �Lost, Decline of Western Civilization� shows Corey killing it from 1 foot gulf coast mush to booming triple-overhead right-point-break mayhem. He also possesses a scrotum full of gihugic balls, as is evidenced by his seemingly suicidal missions at T-poo. When asked about his pre drop-in thoughts before going over the ledge at grotesquely huge Teahupoo, Cory mildly responds, �It�s just like any other wave. I don�t think about falling. I just take off and surf the wave.� Rumors circulate about Cory�s harem of skanky So-Cal surf-pro groupies. Cory Lopez is the kind of surfer that if you saw him shredding at your local break you wouldn't believe your eyes. You'd be like, "how can someone actually do that shit on these waves!?" Cory Lopez can. Cory Lopez is the man.

Tom Carroll � Older school Aussie ripper. Ruled the sport in the 80�s, pre Tom Curren. Won two world championships and almost a third, as he lost at the last heat of Pipeline?? (lewis or others, is that true?). Built like a fire-hydrant, incredible physical specimen. When Tom first bust out on the scene he was noticeably faster and carved harder turns than anyone else. Pushed the cababilities of the thruster. Killed it early on in Indo. Watch Bali High for some early Carroll footage in Indo. Now in his 40s Tom Carroll still kills it. He gets invited to the Tavarua contest every year and actually advanced a few rounds this year. Brother Nick Carroll a well-known surf journalist. Tom seems like a likeable, chill guy, though maybe a little confident. I�ve heard rumors of him dropping in on many people in Oceanside and San Clemente. I�ve also heard that he�s really friendly and talkative in the lineup. Known for one particularly ginormous cutback at Pipeline, dubbed, �the cutback.�
Riddled with injuries but keeps plugging away. A true inspiration for anyone who aspires to keep ripping well into middle age.

Carroll - still charging after all these years

Joe Crimo - legendary So Cal airealist. surf/skate crossover god. Tattooed from head to toe. lives in his van. Surfs on stumpy little fishes and trick boards. First to hit many surf moves like weird shove-it type things and the "Crimo Shrink Wrap" and other anomolies. Not the most beautiful style but the man can innovate. Check him out if you like unusual surfing.

Crimo - innovating

CJ Kanuha � blond-haired, blue-eyed, tall skinny kid from the big island. Has a little big of regal Hawaiian blood in his veins. Super smooth, eccentric, unusual style. As lanky as you want to be. For all us tall skinny guys he could be the great tall-skinny hope! Watch 5th symphony document to get a taste of what CJ is trying to express through his surfing. All the ladies have huge crushes on him.

CJ Kanuha - in the pit

our small green friend tends to his tall green friends

guess he got on the invite list for the next niceness gathering.

Posted by: billy buckteef at July 30, 2004 10:12 AM

yo niceness - great vibe yesterday, and another sweet writeup today, E. i'll have to watch 5th symphony some more, cause I can't remember Kanuha's part, but i'm psyched on anyone who is the 'great tall-skinny' hope. lankiness in the house.

[if you're super lanky like me, and i'm 6'4, 160 (with nicknames like stick, slim, and stretch), you may have a hard time getting the extra skinny, extra tall size wetsuits... Well I got my last wetsuit through the rad Peruvian company Boz, and for only 10% more ($25?) you can get one custom made... you just go to a tailor, or somehow fill out a form of 25 measurements, send it in, and boom... stoked! thanks to christian and other regulars who first clued the blog into the warm, flexible suits.]

getting back to surfers... yesterday's talk made me break out the old Searching for Tom Curren vid last night... every 15 seconds he would fire me up with his smooth perfection and show me another new idea, concept, line, turn... I kept wanting to press Pause, Visualize, and soak up his surging surfing prowess.

well the Atlantic windswell has been up this week, and at times glassy and good... I've been riding some waves for you, e... even dp'd yesterday, Mr. DP Master (for whom DP stands for Dark Patrol)... and today, we just might see our first tropical depression of the season get formed... opening day for Hurricanes, I guess that is... Have a good weekend everyone... keep it Positive, like coming over the back of a wave and seeing a fat, well shaped peak beginning to form and bulge before peeling along the surface of a smooth and sexy ocean...

Posted by: j.o.c. at July 30, 2004 10:21 AM

summer doldrums...
Re: Tom Carroll-the move was called "The Snap". You're second photo down is a picture of it. Lewis will correct me but my recollection is Carroll got an interference call to lose the Pipe Master and the championship. I seem to recall his sister was killed in a car crash the morning of the constest but I'm probably mangling history again.

As music seems to creep in when the surf is down...McLaren Park Sunday for some jams bands and stuff in honor of the fat man and to raise some $ for the hood:

http://www.jerryday.org

Posted by: kdalle at July 30, 2004 10:22 AM

Someone in this mess last night is roughly quoted as saying,
'... that Sunny guy and the Hawaiian surfers ruined surfing."
Back to Waikiki for you. Hang with Hawaiian's and you will see that they CAN BE the most gracious people on earth. Yeah, they're tough - you bet. Problem is you can't surf - all you can do is wank off to these here pictures on this here website and hope that your newly beloved OB gets sunny and goes off. Then we can all witness your extreme talent and be in awe.
If you had one ounce of the talent Sunny has, whomever you are that wrote what you did you would be surfing Tahiti right now...

I happen to know Sunny and you know what?
He's a REAL person and a REAL surfer. You'd be a gnarly fuck too if you grew up in Waianai, instead of Weaserville.
I'm glad the prodcuers of " Boarding House" directed Sunny to bash people - good publicity - bad for the islands and perpetuating the myth and all that. But you know what else? It works, cuz we know you'll never make it to the THE ISLANDS. Too scared.
Stop
Sucking of the tit of the art.

Instant local, instant surfer; just add water.

As penance and punishment for YOUR transgression agianst DUKE, 'e' is hereby obligated to post pics of not only Sunny, but Larry Rios, Bertelman, Dane Kealoha, Gerry, Duke, Ben, Mel Puu, Brian Kealana, Tony Moniz..........................................................
Blake: Hurricane swell - wtf are you thinking ?

Posted by: BVB at July 30, 2004 10:22 AM

word jocular - get on it with the Dark Patrol.

BVB - i agree with the Sunny comments.. i really like Sunny's surfing and it's awesome to see that he's still winning heats and taking the youngins down. I definitely couldn't hang with any of those heavy hawaiians in the loony Hawaiian surf but i like watching. Does Sunny have the most powerful frontside top-turn in the game? maybe.

Posted by: e at July 30, 2004 10:30 AM

f me...The Snap is the 3rd shot down.

Hey Bob, ya know alot those guys you mentioned are now trannies.

Posted by: kdalle at July 30, 2004 10:33 AM

BVB--Don't sweat the Sunny comment. I'm sure that line was a sarcastic remark posted by a guy emulating key-low's eloquent style and meant to poke some fun at "trannys" like myself who, because haven't I left the HMB coastline in 25 years make me a scourge to the soul of surfing...whatever. (For the record...born in Santa Cruz, like my grandfather and have lived in SF since early 90s--not a tranny, just a kook)

That said, I like the suggestion of posting some new and old-school Hawaiian legends.

BTW, anyone read Michner's "Hawaii"? Great, epic tale of the history of Hawaii and it's people.

Posted by: can't go left at July 30, 2004 10:38 AM

BVB you crack my ass up (with all do respect). I get enjoyment out of your viewpoints and the way they level the playing field and bring clarity to some of the points that are expressed on this here post. You certainly are not intimidated to express your viewpoint be it NICENESS or NOT-SO-NICENESS. Refreshing.

Posted by: DAK at July 30, 2004 10:40 AM

can't go left.. I loved Michener's Hawaii - a fantastic read!

Posted by: e at July 30, 2004 10:47 AM

re: carroll and the pipe masters thing.

To set the record straight: Carroll was on his way to a third world title at the 89 pipe masters when he lost to Todd Holland in a second round heat, via a completely bone-headed interference. Carroll was surfing pipe at such a high level at that time that most pundits agreed would have surely won the crown had he not dropped in on the floridiot. Barton Lynch surfed a great contest, won against a rookie Luke Egan, and won the world title.

Most importantly, Carroll's sister did NOT die in a car crash that day, leading to his loss. She died two years previously, on the final day of the 1987 Pipe Masters. Carroll channeled his grief into an out-of-body performance and won his first Pipe Masters. People still talk about that accomplishment with awe and respect. He dedicated the win to the memory of his sister.

back to work.

Posted by: lewis at July 30, 2004 10:47 AM

[IMG]http://www.legendarysurfers.com/surf/images/waikiki_surf_patrol.jpg[/IMG]

Some eeearly gliders....

Posted by: Hb at July 30, 2004 10:48 AM

Drink some more hawiian kool-aid, BVB.

Posted by: g at July 30, 2004 10:57 AM

here's hb's img:

Posted by: at July 30, 2004 10:59 AM

Waianae, where's that?

Anyone see the hottie little teenage girl hit the par 80 the other day? OMG!

Posted by: Drew at July 30, 2004 11:01 AM

lewis ....

...post some NEW ZEALAND video action!

Posted by: tomstah at July 30, 2004 11:04 AM

Thanks Lewis. Well ... I almost had it right. Off by only a couple of years : ) The pro scene never mattered much to me but I did read the mags. However, I just cancelled my Surfer subscription after many decades so I will no longer pretend to know nothin bout nothin.

Posted by: kdalle at July 30, 2004 11:08 AM

TC story: in 1988 TC was in SC for the CWC. i was living in WA state chasing mid week powder days. i get a call from one of my closest freinds in SC. "guess who i just went surfing with?" this was a common game we played as i was AWOL from SC in WA and missed the fellas. as i did the ususal run through the list of suspects i kept coming up short. my dear freind loves to taunt me so i kept getting deeper and wider in my listings(rival faction members,old guys,school mates,etc.) finally i gave up. he says "Tom Carroll." I say no way and he began to explain the scenario as it unfolded. my friend had this classic old rip cirl poster of TC barreled on his wall(i've tried to find it via google) and TC walks into his bedroom stares right at it and cracks a wry smile. The surf that day was thigh high onshore dribble. TC killed it.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 30, 2004 11:10 AM

a friend who's a pro and lives in CR once told me he got invited to a little party in Christian Fletcher's room after one of those airshows. The good host apparently kept busy cooking up cocaine while Gavin Sutherland and Joe Crimo freebased the night away. Crimo especially impressed my friend, who said he acted like a "wild animal"

Posted by: cadaver at July 30, 2004 11:12 AM

todd holland is from NC, not FL.

Posted by: dt at July 30, 2004 11:19 AM

I have been to Oahu at least 12 different times, surfed there at least 10 of those and have never, ever, had any problems in the water.

A photographer friend (born Hawaiian, always Hawaiian) who has surfed for over 30 years on the island has taken me out at least once every trip I have taken over there. Offered his house for me stay/stash my boards/etc. Offered my friends the same upon meeting them one time. In my experience, most of the locals there are more friendly then most of the surfers you would see in either SoCal or Santa Cruz or the like. Just like anywhere else, you treat them with respect, you will get it back. However, you drop in on them or someone they know, you will be told to go in. If you don't go in or move away, you will not be told any more.

BVB makes a good point: the reason they don't like a lot of mainland/OZ/Brazos/etc. is because the either don't know how to surf or disrespect their place in the lineup. If you ever paddle out at Ala Mo, know that you are not at the head of the line for the next wave if some dude that has been surfing there for 20 years is even remotely close to you and the approaching wave. You go after him, so wait your turn....Even if he just caught the last one.

On another experiece, Johnny Boy Gomes, a local bad-mother-f*cker who will kick the shit out of all of us, gave surf lessons to 4 of my buddies out at Waikiki. The guy was so fired up to have a bunch of guys fired up to learn to surf it was unreal. One of the coolest surfing experiences I have ever witnessed.

"Surfing give so much to me bra! I just want to give back to surfing what surfing gave to me bra..." Johnny Boy Gomes, a 5'6'' pitbull who has bigger balls then most.

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2004 11:20 AM

e - diggin' the take on the current pros
lewis - way to drop more knowledge, a little color to e's play by play
3to5 - where were u chasin pow? baker, crystal, stevens, alpie backcountry?

all - have a mighty fine weekend. no surf this weekend for me, i need to get outta the city for a few and clear my head in the woods.

Posted by: j at July 30, 2004 11:24 AM

goodmorning, still trying to sell that orbital sander? i'm interested. kaiser what's the word on that coffee secret spot?

Posted by: bird at July 30, 2004 11:34 AM

OB: head high - if you're a labrador retriever. 0 peeps now, previously 1-3 suckers I mean surfers giving it a go. Little glide rides possible - heck even fun - w/10 minutes on the paddle treadmill afterwards to return to the, uh, peak. Classic Charlie Brown conditions. Onshore n' sloppy, still foggy cloudy but the sun is trying to break through. Chomping set waves about as tall as your great aunt's Saint Bernard/German Shepard mix.

Hey I have a request - any more Odd Todd stories? Happy weekend folks,

Posted by: s.s. sharbait at July 30, 2004 11:40 AM

Bird, can't name names ya know. I don't want the world to cave in this early in the day...

I will give ya some hints: Turn in past Denny's, continue past Payless Shoe Source, ignore Starbucks and park near the fanatical ladies preaching God's truths. Upon shutting your oversized SUV/surf hooptie/moped with surf racks off, walk back towards Starbucks, one door past GNC and hang a left. You are now within striking distance. As you move towards the counter, don't be scared away by the 32 flavors of liquid gold, this ain't no Baskin Robbins. Ask the attendent for the opium coffee and tell her (typically its the wife, but you want the husband 'cause he is the opium coffee creator) to throw in a chocolate log to boot. CK goes Maple Filled, this is good too but I find it a little heavy in the morning. Either way, you can't go wrong.

Good luck!

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2004 11:43 AM

You mean Hawaiian Punch?

We're all natives I guess.
Or at least we should treat life in this way.
Picture me dancing around the fire.
Waianae (woops, spelled wrong first time) not like you'd miss it on the map - end of the road more or less, just before Makaha.
Tranny? I've been marbling these concepts over in my hollow head the last few days: What is a " tranny?"
What is a " local? " What is a " kook?"
To me the most rediculous blight here is the "poser." I don't care where anyone comes from really, do you?
As long as they're not rude or dropping in or making a scene in our waters; as long as people leave their inflated ego's at home then great, we all get along.
My wife's favorite surfer is Tom Carroll, hella tight shorts, stocky, bald and short. Have you ever seen Ger's impression of TC?
*ucking hilarious.
Too bad we don't have examples of Ben Aipa's new longboard series'. Gnarly. Burly. Sufficiant.
If the sun came out it would be a freaking miracle.
Michner didn't write his first novel until age 45!

Posted by: BVB at July 30, 2004 11:48 AM

what is this thing you call "the sun?"

what is this darn thing called "summer?"

in SF all I know is winter, spring, winter, fall.

Posted by: kookdom at July 30, 2004 11:56 AM

j, mostly baker, hyak/Pac West, and service road, tree runs right off hiway 90 too. crystal and alpental where forbidden back then. i've since been blessed with good snow at both. never made it to stevens. my feet hurt just thinking about my old gnu bindings and sorels.
Happy Friday. Score and kept it a secret.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 30, 2004 12:04 PM

skied a bunch at stevens this year, a little at crystal, cause i had a girlfriend in seattle. Stevens is a really cool mountain- tons of good hits off little cliffbands, good trees, super mellow peeps. Ski locals can be so much nicer to out-of-towners: its so rare that showing up at a break I;ve never surfed before, some random loc will start talkng to me and end up giving me a tour of the best goods his spot has to offer. Its happens- but its rare. Skiers, and climbers, are the total opposite.

Posted by: luke at July 30, 2004 12:15 PM

e, lewis, kdalle...luvin' the pro recap!

Kaiser...dude...you let the cat outta the bag! now i'm never gonna get a clean drop on a maple-filled! ; )

in surfing news....took my lady's longboard out this morning in the smallest waves i think i have ever surfed. only went out because it's Friday and i couldn't bear to go to werk. did my best to amuse all with my cheater-five attempts that, inevitably, sunk the nose throwing me into the sand in a foot of water.

Posted by: ck at July 30, 2004 12:21 PM

summer in sf sucks ass

i saw ben aipa going vertical and basically just killing it on a longboard at second point malibu when i was a kid, i was tripping

hawaiian's? baaa, this is the continental US mofo's

TODD HOLLAND! thats what im talking about! white trash, confederate flag toting, big foot driving, down home soutern boy ripper, surfing huge sunset with a dip, the Bo AND Luke duke of surfing yee haw! totally OG style, respect:

thats a funny bit about fletcher and crimo and the meth, very easy to visualize

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 12:21 PM

yeah cadaver.. that was a cool pro-surfer drug story.. got any more?

Posted by: e at July 30, 2004 12:27 PM

Michael Todd Holland was born in a log cabin in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Okay...he wasn't born in a log cabin, but he did live in one. The son of an electrical contractor father and a realtor mom, Todd and brother Dack grew up five miles from the nearest paved road, riding and rebuilding go-karts and hunting local vermin.

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 12:27 PM

because I am a sick lazy ass:

bird-

sure the sander is yours. drop me a line at goodmorning@zworg.com

i'll post this in today's fracas too- i returned from yosemite w/ an intestinal bug that made it hard to stick around the office yesterday- thus the delayed response. it is nice when this world wide oracle moves sitting stuff to a user. might have to have a board only garage sale.....
Posted by: goodmorning on July 30, 2004 09:03 AM

And because I am from Hawaii (and thinking long and hard about going back- all you transplant haters can relax, there will be one less here) and saw a lot of stupid moke posturing/ beating I have to say that Garcia's violence is not excused. I am neither angel nor hippie, but seems like some basic human respect in all directions would make this a hell of an easier go all around.... Making friends is way more fun than making enemies. No?

And yes, BVB, I am a total pussy!

PS: I second the BOZ suits, bought one for a friend (another Hawaiian tranny! oh, no!) and it is a great suit. I may go the custom route when my recent Oneil bank-buster purchase wears out.

Posted by: goodmorning at July 30, 2004 12:32 PM

YEAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

WHITE PRIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: at July 30, 2004 12:36 PM

whatever micheal moore. sensitive PC no name

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 12:44 PM

This is how they dealt with interference in early contests (Dora takes out Fain in '67)

Posted by: at July 30, 2004 12:45 PM

AI=ASS, that dude is a total ass. there are way too many great surfers to fawn over that chump

Posted by: dsx at July 30, 2004 01:03 PM

no really i dont want to offend nobody. its a fine line i guess and a touchy subject but just cause your from the south and tote the confederate flag dont mean your a racialist..does it? and hey im from LA and i dont know shit about the south but i enjoy visiting friends down there..i dont really have nothing against micheal moore either other than his overly in your face propoganda style but i understand dumbing shit down for the american public..maybe i shouldnt have had that second cup of coffee..

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 01:04 PM

Bagel, i didn't completely figure out the confederate flag until i dated a black woman. My dad's from lousiana, but we both think white guys who put it on their trucks or get tats or hang it on the wall of the room in the frat house are AT BEST oblivious semi-morons. AT BEST, and I've got a decent amount of experience with the type.

I love the controversial topics, too bad there's no surf...

Posted by: eric at July 30, 2004 01:14 PM

Can any peeps out there give me some backround on Pat Rawson? What about Rawson boards?

cheers

Posted by: sf at July 30, 2004 01:28 PM

word thanx eric..ya i guess the confederate flag today is kind of like the bad boy club logo or calvin with a chevy t-shirt pissing on a ford logo but alot worse because people coralate it with racism..it represented the south during the civil war but the civil war wasnt just about slavery..

i think pat rawson is a shaper in hawaii..

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 01:43 PM

did any chicks (or guys?) out there go to that billabong surf camp thing in manresa last weekend. i'm curious what keala kennelly is like in person. she charges and seems like a character, but maybe not mensa material.

Posted by: steamwand at July 30, 2004 01:49 PM

oh, well it appears that slavery was actually a huge part of the cause of the civil war..sorry i will no longer pretend i know stuff..but i still like todd hollands style though..

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 01:50 PM

Funny thing about all my surf bros down there in CR is they ALL smoke weed (or 'cajeta' as they like to call it) like chimneys, which isn't so strange, a pretty international type deal from what I've seen. Except THEY like to smoke BEFORE surfing, which I've always found a bit weird. Here's a little story about the big island of Hawaii, where I spent part of my childhood and first went surfing. A friend took me to a spot north of the town we lived in, at this gnarly rocky bay. I begged him to let me borrow his brand new board, this gleaming 7' 0" pintail. Hesitatingly, he let me, barking all these commands and pointers at me while I ran into the water-- I was a very very stoked little keiki, and the waves were kind of pumping. This is no Waikiki though, and the vibe at this place was not exactly what you'd call "nice." Right away I paddled for a wave and flew down this trough and pearled, got ragdolled for a bit and managed to get hit by the nose of the board just inside my eyebrow. It wasn't so bad or anything but I came in with blood streaming down my face. My friend was freaking out and yelling at me, like what the hell did I do to his board, I told you so, etc. It was fine, he grabbed it and paddled out. So I'm standing on the beach, it's a dark brooding, overcast day, I'm shivering and bleeding like a wounded dog. Down the beach, these huge Hawaiian guys are sitting around a campfire and wave me over to come warm up a little -- they were what you call "mokes." So I'm thinking, "cool, I've been accepted." They start asking me strange questions, like how good an athlete I am, and if I can "skip rocks" or not. "Yeah, I suppose" I stammered, these guys had creepy looks in their eyes and I was scared shitless; "Show us how for skip rock, bra"-- so I obediently started looking for a flat rock when one of them bellowed and pointed "eh, ovah deah one good one." So I walked over and grabbed the rock off the sand when immediately it burned in my fingers like I was touching a hot iron. They had clearly been heating it up for a while in their fire and I conveniently showed up for their grom torture enjoyment. I dropped the rock and looked at these guys shaking with deep belly laughter, the look on their faces I'll never forget. It was something like, 'say one word and we'll tear your ears off.' Anyway, that was my introduction to surfing..

Posted by: cadaver at July 30, 2004 02:22 PM

Shark Repellent Deemed a Breakthrough......

Hmmm, I'm off to Yosemite tomorrow for a week or so. Can you guys get hold of some of this stuff and test it out while I'm gone? Thanks, gang........

Posted by: limevoodoo at July 30, 2004 02:25 PM

If you're really bored, I added a story about my encounter with one of the other Lane Lizards last Sunday. (Bruce's Lesson)

http://www.surfhumor.com/Wipeout%20Stories.htm

Posted by: Lizard at July 30, 2004 02:39 PM

Holland is another of the east coasters who made the pimgrammage to the rock and earned respect at big pipe....was almost murdered by hundreds of angry brazzos in his final year on the CT for sitting on priority on a brazzo and made time run out.

he shaved the famous goat and snuck out of Rio on the first flight and swore to never go bact to surf that shitty beachbreak.

Odd Todd? I once surfed for 3 hours and he probably surfed for over 4 and caught a trillion waves.

Later that night Christian called me and said he heard the waves were good this morning, I said how do you know he said he surfed with Todd up in Marin for 2 hours......

Done for the day folks I got work to do and can't fuck around all day.

Posted by: tomstah at July 30, 2004 02:44 PM

limevoodoo - if you get a chance check out nelson lake, it's out of the meadows up there. good stuff, every time i've been we're the only people there.

Posted by: j at July 30, 2004 02:52 PM

is it beer:30 yet?

I'm enjoying the reading and the pics here today. The buoys, those nototious teases, are looking ever so slightly better as the day wears on . . .

Posted by: Klooless at July 30, 2004 02:59 PM

j -- funny you should mention that: we're going to be at Tuolumne. I'll take check it out, thanks......

Posted by: limevoodoo at July 30, 2004 03:04 PM

Odd Todd (Smith?) - One of my favorite people. After he and Peter Vinci showed me all the idiocyncracies of a certain fickle, localized SF spot, I was still hesitant to paddle out. Finally one day I showed up to check it and Todd says, "So you conducting another survey, or are ya gonna SURF!?" I surfed.
My favorite Todd Smith story: As I approached the entrance to WISE one afternoon, I noticed a pair of dripping wet booties sitting outside the door. I figured one of the shop-rats had just run in from surfing VFWs to work their shift. I was wrong. It was Todd - equally dripping wet, still in his hooded wetsuit - standing at the counter with his brand-new BIC surfboard busted in half at his feet. He was digging through his wallet muttering, "I got the receipt here SOMEWHERE." The shop guys were assuring him not to bother with the receipt, they'd make good on replacing the board without it. Later, Todd told me that his replacement BIC went flying off his truck, down the cliff along Hwy 17. He didn't bother to go after it, "Fuck them tupperware boards, they're BAD KARMA!"

Posted by: Jimmie at July 30, 2004 03:14 PM

Nice pool....

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2004 03:19 PM

wow, nice pool. did you see this boat?

Posted by: j at July 30, 2004 03:25 PM

reality check just dropped 2 reality checks in a row..

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 03:48 PM

sweet boat. check out this bench on the dock

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at July 30, 2004 03:54 PM

Whatever! Can you hold this Tracks sign up like this?

Still my personal favorite!

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2004 03:56 PM

Better res:

Posted by: Kaiser at July 30, 2004 03:57 PM

I just skated down to Kelly's and it looks workable for now. No people surfing that peak.

Posted by: Chris at July 30, 2004 04:11 PM

Nice positive vibe today! Man she has some nice hipbones Kaiser! Too bad her face is probably hiddy.

Just got out of the water at Noreiga. Not too bad. A little windy, with some ankle slappers, but there was definitly a niceness vibe out there.

Get out there and share the niceness everybody! Share a wave, take a kid from the ghetto to the beach, give your buddy a sip of your Coke.

Posted by: Toby at July 30, 2004 04:29 PM

BVD,

No need to get fired up about the Sunny comment. I think it was just a prankster trying to mock this blog.

I used to hang with one of the most respected Waimea surfers when I lived over there. He was a really modest person whom you would never expect to be such a charger. We shared views like your's BVD, about the surfing world coming to an end because of sell outs and the like. But the guy was still totally cool and would never boost about how much he achieved. He was really just a nerd at heart, but he had balls equal to or even exceding laird's.

Posted by: Drake at July 30, 2004 05:06 PM

new bush ad campaign

http://www.kintera.org/atf/cf/%7B06DAEF0E-9000-4422-B4DA-AFBAA10CAF60%7D/STRAIGHTTALKHI.ASX

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 05:28 PM

Dickey Mora.
Burp.

Posted by: It's 'Agnes' after 6pm at July 30, 2004 06:28 PM

todd holland is from cocoa beach, fla. born in winston-salem, nc
(as in winstons and salems) surfed a lot with him on the outer banks of nc and in the cocoa beach/ sebastian area. the dude can rip. rip! generates speed from nothing
and throws huge fans of h2o. also a redneck through and through...drove a pick up with huge tires for a while and a
hopped up 65 mustang. was one of the first east coasters to
get up into the top 16 or so (along with wes laine). part of the
pre-kelly cocoa beach mob....matt kechele, et al. there were about 4 or 5 pros that were not quite good enough for the
top 44 but close. all set the stage and mentored slater.

holland had best mullet in surfing circa 1986 > 1988

nice dude, mellow. now runs a surf/ travel company
in cocoa beach.

Posted by: korewin at July 30, 2004 06:55 PM

sounds fun

ferry titzgerald

my work has no beer dammit

Posted by: bagel at July 30, 2004 06:55 PM

chris gets the stoke award today, in a good example of the line up infesting power of e's I checked out kellys after work tonight and you could basically walk to the line up. about the weakest waves i've surfed at ob in a long time , but of course i'm glad i went out anyway it was alright for an hour. now i'm enjoying beer.

Posted by: eric at July 30, 2004 07:46 PM

Hey can't go left... So you have lived in the Moon for the last 25 years?? I grew up in the Moon. Lived there from '72 to '98. Mostly surfed in da '80's.. maybe we were in the line up at the same time...... I love and miss the Moon. Killed me when my parents moved to Sac a few years ago... used to wake up in the middle of the night think of that beautiful place... its cool cause the homies are still there...

Posted by: at July 30, 2004 09:08 PM

Dude....you lived there from 72-98?

and then went with your parents to sacremento?

so when the paper boy comes do you tell him to come back when your dad gets home?

talk about a loser.....

Posted by: at July 31, 2004 12:15 AM

Either the surf needs to get better or E needs to take photos down from a certain secret spot overlooking a precarious cliff, or we're all gonna go crazy.

Posted by: hot_sushi at July 31, 2004 08:52 AM

HEY HEY HEY!

Calling someone a loser on this board is not PC! This is niceness.com buddy! Not negative_ned.com, or bad_vibe_buddies.biz dude!

This board could be re-named PC_purists.org, or positive_pete.com though. That is if Pato Banton wants to sue or something. But that wouldn't be very nice of Pato and would hurt feelings here.

Be nice to your fellow surfer, be him from Sacramento, Sauseolito, Tiberon or Tibet. For he is a brother, and like mom used to say "if you can't say anything nice, DON'T SAY NOTHING AT ALL".

Posted by: Lars at July 31, 2004 08:59 AM

gawd bless wicked weasel.Post More Curren pics.

Posted by: easy at July 31, 2004 10:07 AM

.Post More Curren pics. Im going to Pt Reyes to look for surf. Just wear is that shop out there?

Posted by: easy at July 31, 2004 10:08 AM

Anonymous-no, I didn't live in HMB, I think my post yesterday was unclear...I was talking about the guy who likes to throw crap at others for never leaving a small geography. I'm neither local nor "tranny"--I've lived in a bunch of places but was blessed to be born in SC and have deep roots there. For now, I'm just a guy living in SF and enjoying much that it has to offer (geographically, recreationally, socially and spritually). Hope folks are having a great weekend.

Posted by: can't go left at July 31, 2004 11:47 AM

New rule?

If you're gonna' say anything suitable for badattitude.com or pissedattheworld.com give your full name, a phone number and/or address where you can reached. Macho-anonymous stuff gets old very quickly.

CK- nice talking with you.
Kaiser- good to see you, glad you got your board back from three-to-five months. HA! Just teasing.

Posted by: Bruce at July 31, 2004 12:05 PM

regarding bruce's post, seems like ALL posts are anonymous now? e, seems like since you made the full page fix emails are no longer visible.

Posted by: j at August 1, 2004 06:10 PM

seems to be working.

Posted by: test at August 2, 2004 07:30 AM

oops, no. i put an email address in and it showed up in preview, but was dropped on post.

Posted by: test at August 2, 2004 07:31 AM

hahahaha

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at August 2, 2004 08:33 AM

That is the way it works. Email addresses show up in Preview mode. So, if you want to email someone, you need to Preview to check their address.

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