E's Surf Report

E

one thing to think about maybe you already have is to get a new bed.

our backs are on it more than we realize.

huntington beach

trestles - by Dan Johson

Man, not much down south. Skunked on Friday, thigh slappers Saturday at Florida Nile, a few nuggets were Landing on Sunday SE of town. Just enough to keep motivated for fall.

So no pics. But with his permission, I wrote up one of our local's "ultimate dirty water" story. Should make you want to rinse in alcohol if you surf in sketchy water.

http://www.surfhumor.com/Wipeout%20Stories.htm

E & the board-

I have a busy work day with no time to retype the story so I am posting CK & my emails of this weekend- hopefully CK won't be bummed at a private correspondence made public. It's long and I am also naming spots- edit whatever at your discretion. This was a bad one that everyone should be aware of. I'll know what it all costs by 1:00pm today.

"ck" wrote:
> > Matt - Kaiser, my lady, and i had a fun sesh at Montara yesterday morning
> and then hit the Moss Beach Distillery for some tasty (albeit overpriced)
> beers and burgers on the deck. on the way back (around 4pm?) we saw your
> Cruiser in the Montara lot. hope you scored a sweet sesh and, like us,
> enjoyed being in waves with at least a little real push after all of the
> slop of late.
> > hope to see ya out in the water soon.
> > -ck

CK-

Boy was that my car! The surf had its moments- I was out on the big red tanker and it was what was needed to get through the flatspots. I was
out nearly alone at the middle of the beach until 5:00 and on the road by 5:15. That was when the fun began.

I noticed a county sheriff's car across the street when I got out of the water and figured that that was good; we were getting some security in
the face of a ton of break-ins (I just heard that two friends have recently become victims of the force the locks & grab the pants game).
Leaving the lot at about 5:15, I was a little bummed about the traffic around Devil's Slide- it wasn't terrible but slow. Just as came off the
blind turn that leads into Pacifica the truck started to wobble as if I had a blow out. And then my driver's side right wheel & tire went rolling off across the oncoming lane of traffic & I was on my axle. At 40- 45 mph! Fuck!

So the surmmisal is (because SIX lug nuts don't just come off all at once, no matter what, they just don't) that my parking up on that berm
with the front right side of the car down hill afforded one of the parking lot bandits enough cover to try to steal the tire but he/ they
were spooked off by the arrival of the sheriff. I had the luck to get caught in traffic around the Slide which kept the wheel on and me not dead with my usual speeding home.

I won't even describe the hell it took to get the truck home- fortunately a fellow Mission Surf Rider was logging Boatdocks and bailed me way out. The setting of bait and administering some vigilante justice seems like a good possibility now. I am definatley at the point of no return on this one. Tomorrow I'll see how much this is going to cost me- ruined wheel, trashed brake disk, caliper et al, trashed 4WD hub, and god knows what else. I really am lucky that the truck didn't roll.

Glad to hear that you guys got waves. More flat ahead though... & I may need a ride to the beach.

Jeff

Jesus, insane story, glad your bro is OK. i'd consider that attempted murder.

sob story of the weekend. saturday passed on surfing to putz around and get errands done that have gone undone the past few weeks as i've been out of town. sat. nite was crashing at a friend's house across the bridge, figured i'd bring my new (to me, used gift from a friend) 7'2 for a sunday surf. anyways, brought it inside for the night as i don't trust a board in the car overnight. sunday morning got up to go get wet for the first time in what feels like eons...carrying board out of house and....slipped out of my hands. nice big fat f'in crack/ding on her purdy little rail. board no longer watertight, tortured myself by driving the coast down to see what i could see thru the fog, looked like fun 'round montara (kaiser, think i saw your rig there, verify). got home, fixed ding.

question for you ding repair experts. i sanded down with various grits, wetsanded with a 400ish grit paper, anyway to get rid of the abrasions left from sanding? do you use a polish or ? structurally it's the same i suppose, but pains me to see a self inflicted wound reminder.

anyways, rock on.

*groan* IT'S MOOOOONDAY

Good Morning, Time to get up and go to work
I Ride On The Bus Into The City Everyday
I Sit On My Seat And I Dream Myself Away
I Dream I'm On An Island With That Foxy Lady Too
But When I Awaken I Must Be Mistaken I'm On Third Avenue
Won't You Take Me Away And Take Away Me

Geez! Glad you made it through that one goodmorning. All this talk about the Landlord and getting to/from the beach is the dangerous part.

surf was good all weekend at OB. Yah! fall is on the way

SHARK SITING!!!

some friends of mine got chased out of the water saturday night at Pacheco.

I had just gotten out of the water too and didnt see it.

later,
-judahpeak

saturday and sunday mayhem at OB...

SURF! glorious surf....drop in and bottom turn,
feel the speed down the face, looking at the line...
couple of pumps and then th-WACK and then th- WACCCK!
two lippers on one wave and its still the same horrible
season it was last week. must say that i had a blast on
the southern side of OB this weekend. there was a wave
starved horde out there BUT
peace and niceness to all i only saw one, maybe two
drop ins and lots of smiles...lots of talk and "howdy"
in the line up. good to see.

hope all out there got some of what they needed.

at 4.30ish on sunday i dragged my leaden arms out of the
water and could not wipe the grin off my face.

looking forward to sept.

Lizard,
Why bother with the cute innuendo? You might as well just name the spots. FLAME ME for even suggesting that VAGUE is VOGUE.

Slurfed for 2.5 hours on Saturday. I had the good chance to swap boards with someone. His was a Hickey singlefin (rigid), that was based on an early 70s Yater template - flatter rocker, WP forward 4-5 inches, 19.5 inches wide (which is wide for me), wings in front of the fin, and a pivoty thin fin. I caught scads of waves on it, really fun, but couldn't turn anything close to the RFS's ability. Kinda validating. My friend had a blast on the Hickey RFS board.

Sunday and old friend called me in the morning "I'm at the end of your street, come on down." Like Bob Barker woulda wanted, 10 minutes later I'm surfing again. Good fun.

Today I met and surfed with kdalle - he rode the RFS funboard and got many rides on it. Today woulda been a good intro day, with the better sets hitting mid-stomach, but still with some shape. Surfing with buddies is cool. I know many surf with friends nearly every time, but as the years go on surf buddies come and go, and there's a lot of solo sessions. This weekend was a nice reprieve.

Now, it looks bad coming up, hope you got your fill last weekend - it may be weeks before we get anything that nice again.

e - good to hear you are back in the water.

Hey, the weekend was fun. Especially Sunday am with a little extra juice. Though I found myself just missing peaks.

I checked out the beach this am but passed. I must have seen you out there E. I looked in just before 7 am and saw two in the water.

Good to see Sharkbait chargin it on Sunday early.

Hey, the weekend was fun. Especially Sunday am with a little extra juice. Though I found myself just missing peaks.

I checked out the beach this am but passed. I must have seen you out there E. I looked in just before 7 am and saw two in the water.

Good to see Sharkbait chargin it on Sunday early.

thurso east

Woah, goodmorning! Thanks for the warning, glad you're okay! Fark!

OB: ditto ditto e's. Maybe a little choppier.

Last night I dreamed I was slowly cruising along a waist/shoulder wave face [ finally! ]. I was looking at a line of smoothish wall, and instead of going straight down the line decided to turn my board up up up the face..it worked. Then I glided down, a few gentle up and down turns...the board morphed into a skateboard [ never skateboarded ] on concrete and I kept gliding to and fro, easy. I woke up, paddled out, and holy cow the first wave I get is the freaking dream wave and I managed the exact same turn. Uncanny! Before this story sounds too warm and fuzzy - I also dreamed I was scratching over a 7 foot OB closeout, missed, and went over the falls. Ack!

So nice i had to say it twice.

goodmorning that's completely insane, glad you survived.

got nuglets all day saturday, just me and a buddy trading off wedges. so fun...

Holy f--k, goodmorning! What a scare that must've been, and a serious drag damage-wise. Your explanation of tire-thieves being scared off sounds kind of unlikely to me. Would they steal ONE tire/wheel? If it's not a freak accident, it sounds more like really scary vandalism/sabotage by a very twisted party. It might be interesting to see if the lug nuts are where you had been parked. Six lug nuts don't come off all at once, but you might not notice it until the last one or two come off. What a place to lose the wheel! Something closed Devil's Slide on Saturday morning as well (police line with flares down just past Lindy).

Surfwise: Saturday at Lindy was at least okay, and Sunday at OB was fun---definitely the best combination of paddlability and ridability in a while. Lots of enjoyable rides, but I'm still kicking myself for stupid wipeouts on my two best waves. One of them was this great right that looked like it'd be a long steep wall, and I was looking back to see if I was actually dropping in on someone when the wave somehow fell out from underneath me and i belly-flopped.

It wasn't completely un-crowded, but the vibe was good (and I saw a few niceness folks out there including sharkbait and dennis).

3-to-5:
Sorry if I was too specific. I've never been described as cute, however.

Oh yeah..HELLO Kdalle! Great to meet you today. Sorry to run off...I assumed you guys wanted that space to yourselves and didn't want to bust in. I guess there could be such a thing as too much surf etiquette! ;)

Anyone interested in hightailing over to "Open Water" this week? For some reason I think it'd be more fun to watch with surfers, heh

DO NOT EAT POT COOKIES AND THEN GO AND SEE OPEN WATER!! I DID AND I THINK I'M QUITTING SURFING AND ANY OTHER H2O SPORTS! TRUST ME ON THIS ONE I HAD NIGHTMARES ALL NIGHT LONG.

Saturday at Pedro in the EARLY am: o.k./not great. Headed out at Ocean Beach later, after the tide had dropped a bit. GOOD FUN! I actually took the small board out. I was surprised that I could still paddle it - I haven't rode anything smaller that a 9'4" for months!
e - sorry to space on you about the distortion pedals, things got crazed at home and then there were waves! I'll call.

Lizard,
Don't apologize to me, just all the non claiming surfers in the 3 counties you violated with your posts over the weekend. Cute, I heard you where hot?!

cool Jimmie.. no worries on the pedals.. i actually don't have band practice this week.. but.. i'd love to take a look at them whenever.

i heard from a friend that central america was droppin' bombs all last week. lucky bastards!

Fuck, what is going on in this world? GM, that is some crazy shit about your car. I was parked there all weekend and I am glad my ride didn't get broken into. Sooo sorry to hear about that. Honestly, it wasn't as if stuff like that is done for "crowd control" or at least it wouldn't see like it. Totally crazy and unfortunate.

The vibes were great this weekend where I was. But, I didn't have much of a crowd other then CK and his lady. Sunday being much more organized then Saturday. The fog line was holding most visitors at bay I think, which was nice.

Anyway, I got my laptop stolen over the weekend. Some fool broke into our offices, took 6 laptops from our company. Real bright. Too bad we have them on camera. Fucking world is going south...........As in down the toilet.

monday morn, st. francis drive, RWC. sunny skies, only a couple of crits out. met up with ian for some morning rides. got a couple of good rollers, some high banking turns, couple of good wipe-outs and some good continual forward motion. saw ian nail a layback bert on this one section and enjoyed being out of shape.

now i'm back in the fog & at my computer. TOTALLY AWESOME.

glad you folks got some waves in this weekend. by installing my new bamboo floor, i made for one less person crowding the peak saturday & sunday. now i'm ready to surf and once again the swell is dropping. radness.

cheers !

a few friends saw a shark at sloat on sat. apx 6pm.

dunno if it was the same one y'all saw middle beach.

next time tie a ribbon on his fin so we can track him.

What's going on is no jobs in the hot economy. Production is up and jobs are down. Corporate profits are up wit executive incomes and our incomes are down. It was pretty rough around here in the early 90's and got much better as money flowed during the boom times. Even junkies had good jobs. Now it's back to the bad old days of the last Bush administration. My tax plan: Income over $500K = 50% tax. Over $1MM = 65% tax. Over $3MM = 70%. Gready bastards will leave the money in the businesses for investment and job creation. Fewer multi-multi-millionairs = fewer ripoffs in the parking lots. My name is Dennis McQuoid and I approve this message.

Panatian

that wave looks so perfect. i think it's fake.

elias.. what's not pictured are the sea lice, razor sharp coral 2 feet under the surface, mozzies on land, 3 boatloads of aussie rippers descending on the lineup, long waits between sets, sand fleas, malaria, death-knelling close-outs, dysentery, etc..

but.. i think the wave is real.

goodmorning...holy shiet! must have been a hell of a shocker for ya. i can just picture it...all mellow from a chill little sesh...driving back thinking about what you'll do for the evening...and wham!...suddenly you're sliding on your disc and fighting to control your vehicle! frick. soooo glad to hear that you managed to keep it on the road and keep from rolling so that you're stil with us. however, soooo sorry to hear of the damage to your fine vehicle. tragic. i don't know what type of wheels you have on your rig, but i gotta say that i think i agree with KK....sounds more like vandalism/mischief/attempt to injure than simple wheel theft. what an f'ed up world we live in. glad that you eluded injury and glad to hear that you found some waves.

as for a ride to the beach....anytime, amigo. just give a holler.

btw...e...thanks for posting that shot of Huntington. first "vintage" shot that actually makes me glad that i missed out on the "unspoilt" beaches of yesteryear! ; ) fark!...imagine waking up one morning to find a billion oil rigs on OB!

maldives

samoa

goodmorning: crazy story, glad you're ok. i agree with the prior posts about the theory on motive, seems to me that there was probably more malicious intent than just stealing. you might want to make sure that the police consider all theories too -- that could be very important for whatever justice comes of the crim case, should there be one. and if you live in sf on the south-east side of twin peaks, i'd be happy to try to coordinate schedules so i can give you a ride to the beach while your car is getting fixed.

rode the 6'8" rfs demo at ob this weekend, then again at noon in today's doable but nothing like yesterday's mush. i wasn't in the groove on sat or sun, but when the elements and my efforts were in sync the fin worked great. one snappy frontside turn on is particularly memorable -- was just in front of the pocket, leaned into a hard turn up the near-vertical face and then pivoted off the top and right back down, then right into another turn out to the shoulder and then a cutback into & back out of the foam. slicing like a hot knife thru butter. if only my timing on drops was better i might have a report on how it handles frontside barrels. looks like i'll get one more session on the rfs, will try to ride it and ride my tri-modfish in the same session and report any noticeable differences.

Dennis,
you have it all wrong. your plan makes it a sin to make more money. that is wrong, and backwards. people should be rewarded for hard work and good ideas, not taxed more.

would you use all these new taxes to fund worthless Clinton-esque programs? what a joke.

I'd support a flat tax, but this incremental scale that you project wouldn't even be backed by the elitist psuedo-leftists like Sean Penn, Barbra Streisand, Bono, Eddie Vedder, and Michael Moore, they'd vote for Bush before they'd let you take that much of their money. it's the truth, yo.

Just think if Theresa Heinz Kerry had to pay 70% taxes on her inherited-republican money. Now that would be RAD!!!!!

Or, if Kennedy had to pay such high rates, or Liv Tyler!! Awesome!!!!

-judahpeak

YOU WILL NOT GET THE LAST DONUT!!!

aaah, the wonders of google

e, man, i know that wave is real. its just that at the close of summer at OB i start to forget what perfection (sans the sea lice and sunburn) is like. and hence, start to be in denial that places like that exist and then make blatent sweeping claims like that are fake. which they are right?

glad you are back in the water!

keep on keepin on!

duh.
sometimes my mind works in different ways than my fingers. sorry for the garbled last post. hope you made it through it.

judahpeak, you mean the worthless programs that balanced the budget and created 23 million new jobs?

that's only a half serious question, yo.

are you tring to tell us eddie vedder and barbie and sean penn are closet libertarians, or what?

man, you're crushing my illusions, and ripping the stars out of my baby eyes. or was that delusions... hmm.

surf report for smc:

tiny.

ps. 2nd time: don't park in those lots. park up the sidestreets and walk, guys. for gwc, too. the walk is short -- shorter than a walk in either direction to the nearest mechanic, for damn sure.

g,
taxe rates had nothing to do with the dot-com bubble during the Clinton regime.
Clinton didnt create 23 million jobs. (btw, you've grown it since he said "22 million" himself at the DNC two weeks ago.)

There was a huge dot-com bubble that created millions of catshit dot-com jobs. Then these jobs went away when economic reality hit home. nothing to do with Clinton or Bush.

Dont politicize the dot-com bubble jobs, unless you are willing to admit that Enron and MCI and Tyco and Global Crossing (and 95% of 9/11 planning, training, and financing) and other financial fiascos took place during the Clinton regime.

it's just like saying "Nader ruined the election for Gore"- that is such a BS whine/excuse of bitter democrats.
sad, but true.

-judahpeak

anybody here work in the auto painting biz? i was repairing a broken fairing on my motorcycle this weekend and did a quick rattle can job on it to give it some color. i sanded/wet sanded down to various grits (i think 320 being the smallest), but always found the sanding left little lines on the primer that could be seen thru the paint coats. i even used a filling primer to see if that helped. thougts/suggestions?

j.

auto painters work for a living.

they don't sit and bullshit on computers.

yeah, i know. i found clinton's inability to speak in public without mentioning the figure amusing. 22 or 23 -- hell, it'll be 40mil by the time the collective finishes passing the tale into the night of history. just like the gipper, who "defeated communism". how's that e.o. wilson chain go -- fact -> history -> myth -> legend -> religion? something like that...

the rest of that bait is too rotten to bite on.

pray for surf

J, the do-it-all man! Ding repair, motocycle repair, porn deliverer, Gumby aficionado, etc.

E, nice to hear you are back on the prowl. I will keep my eye open for ya on the DP. Been quiet out there lately as the normal crew has been hibernating.

This weekend was a nice little tasty nugget of days to come. I noticed a big difference in my fatigue factor from 2 - 2 hour sessions. These weak ass summer waves have me thinking that I am doing a lot of paddling when I am not.

damn, good point on the auto painters. i much prefer to get paid to bullshit than to work!

MUCH better at the gumby/porn thing than the other two, hence the questions. dammit to heck.

kaiser - the difference between small surf and bigger is your arms get tired from paddling in bigger, legs tired from the walkout in smaller.

anyone else giving these a spin:

took 'em out sunday. wanna compare notes on effect w/ different boards.

hmm...apparently that site doesn't like linking to their images (delete earlier post if wanted e)

the other day, on the radio I heard someone say

"I'd find Pope John Paul much more credible if he added George and Ringo to his name"

Judahpeak,

I can't be wrong. The odds are in my favor. Nobody can be wrong ALL the time.

Just finished a good surf book, Tapping The Source, recommended, fun trashy read with lots of good Huntington Beach surf scene stuff.

And for anyone who wants to see Open Water without leaving the hosue:
http://www.centraldownload.org/

Adios- Can't deal with the negative shit.

If you like "Tapping the Source", try also "The Dogs of Winter" by the same guy (Kem Nunn). You have to get through a bunch of ultra-violence, but there are some great scenes of trecking through Lost Northern California in search of a Big-Ass Mysto wave (it was written when there might still be Big-Ass Unridden Mysto waves out there).

Maybe Clinton didn't create 23 million jobs....

But George W. Bush will be the first president since Herbert Hoover to preside over a net four year loss of jobs.

The policies of Bush, and his daddy, made the wealthy wealthier, and lost jobs for the working class.

Been there. Done that.

BLARGHHHHHH to you lads. How you ramble. I realize now that I am a lot like Gerry - the way I surf - the way I ZEN through life w/out a care.
Yeah - 20 years and I 'll never understand the invasion of the soul peak. Entire beach is wde open - I'm getting waves at my peak, and then next thing you know I've got 4 MORTS surrounding me and four more coming over the dune. Never will I understand the lerm mentality - sorry [Lerm], - I don't mean YOU personally - whoever the fuck u are?.
Mine is a tactical game. If I'm not constantly shucking and jiving all these sad sack jive ass "surfers" all around me I get caught up in the mindless orgy of their game and I'm fucked.
Montara sucks. Don't surf there. If you want to BE down, then don't be a traitor by surfing SanshitMateoCunty.
Surf OB only - , sharks and all; and quit crying about your piddley shit fucking problems.

CORPORATE SURFING CAN SUCK MY DICK

One of the reasons John Kerry will have a head time getting elected is because he looks like a white faced long faced Native American. Maybe we can 3-D morph the guy and fake it Have him look more like a Robert fucking Redford - YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

g - I looked over those fins...they have significantly less rake than the other templates. I fully respect the idea of using a raked elliptical template from a theoretical pov, but the loss of rake, by itself, will cause a change in hold that most surfers will not like.

Their designer should have stuck more closely to the rakes of the rest of the fins. I mean, look over the FCS templates. Every dern one of them is pretty close in distance from leading edge to trailing tip - except Webber's CRVs. They are noticeably shorter - shorter even than Slater's fins.

Rake allows a fin to generate forces across a range of fore-aft distances. A fin with little fore-aft span is more pivoty - a fin with a long drawn out template has more hold, and at its limit turns a little slower.

Without riding the CRVs, I bet they are a real powerful fin when you hit a turn with your weight set just right, but not so great when your weight is a little to far forward, or a little too far back. Good in smaller stuff, but too hard to control in the bigger stuff.

Just my guess....

Thanks, blake.

That is pretty much in line with what I thought was going on when I first rode 'em. Haven't been out since Sunday PM -- too damn small here.

I didn't get the full set btw -- just the sides. Slapped a fairly standard rake fin (k2.1) in the center.

There is a definite change in hold. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what is going on.

They did seem to provide a bit of tail lift and some additional drive over the g5's that I had in prior. Trying these on a coffey 6'6", fairly typical head/underhead thruster shape.

Gonna give 'em a few weeks and see if I can get used to the hold.

G, Blakestah is on regarding rake and turning ability/pivot. Your gonna feel a lot more drive from the fins but that has more to do with the planshape/template being wide in the base and tip, less from the elipse/curve of the fins. i had Stretch thruster in the 80's that had curved fins as well Rainbow fin called them "turbo" fins. I felt that the board held up on rail to rail transitions. I rode them for a month. After which I knocked off the turbos and glassed on the standard CI template. The board worked better.

I didn't address the curves at all.

Fins suffer from "induced drag". When you go into a hard bottom turn, water on the inside of the inside rail fin is pushed hard, this is the high pressure side. The other side is low pressure. Water, obviously, likes to flow from high pressure to low pressure. Because fins have an end, water likes to flow around the end, from high pressure to low, and this creates a form of drag called induced drag.

The curve on those fins acts to counter induced drag by forcing water near the tip to flow towards the base on the high pressure side.

As a note, most bird wings also feature this kinda of curvature - the tips are curved down.

It should be most noticeable in the hardest turns, perfectly valid in theory - one thing to work out would be how much curve is enough.

But that will not change the rake issue.

The use of the ellipse is interesting too. The ellipse minimizes induced drag for a flat template. Orcas have raked ellipses for their pectoral fins. I drew up some templates of how this might apply to a thruster fin, but I normalized the rake to other thruster fins (figuring rake is still advantageous and necessary in a thruster fin). The grids are one inch squares, this one is made to have similar rake to a G5. I have some fiberglass plate ready to make the fins, but need more time....as always.

I should note that the standard templates for most modern fins were inspired by dolphin pectoral fins. Foil theory says an ellipse works better, and the orca is a good working example. Dolphin pectorals are more pointy towards the tip.

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