E's Surf Report

Didn't miss much out there this morning! I drove it and then some. It wasn't that great.

Smoother conditions prevailed down south of SF. Stinky water and lackluster conditions couldn't convince me to dawn the seal outfit.

PASS

yeah, it was pretty messy out there this a.m. made me wish i'd made it out yesterday. looked much better. but no regrets there were still fun peaks and shoulders. just bumpy/shifty ones.
i can't for the life of me figure out how to bring my cutback around on the front side. tricks/advice?

anyone going to the nor cal womens surf club party this sat at el rio?

How I got a ding this morning by Dennis.

I was paddling out after riding a wave somewhere along OB. Crappy but fun waves. I saw a guy catch a small wave and was heading toward me. I stopped paddling to give him room to go by me cuz I didn't want to spoil his ride--weak as it was. Instead of staying on course, the confused less experienced rider turned in toward the beach now on a path directly at me. He then did a kook-panick kind of bailout, kicking his board right at me. I put my hand up and turned away cuz the nose of his board was on a target for my head-which reminded me of why I should have been wearing my helmet... Anyway, he says, "Sorry I thought I missed you" and paddled away. Never asked if I, or my board was ok.

I didn't notice the ding at first. It was a fine, clean slice in the rail. I paddled back out, caught a racey left and had to holler at a guy about to drop in on me. Guess who it was. Paddling out again, I noticed a rough edge on the rail of the board. Upon reinspection I saw the slice then looked around for the young guy to let him know what he did, but he was on the beach. Realizing I had exposed foam I went in. Then we crossed paths as he was coming back out.

Being the basically mellow guy that I am, I told him he put a gash in my board, in a non-threatening but pissed-off manner. He did offer to pay which was nice enough, though I do my own repairs. I just told him to be more careful. I have never dinged anyones board.

Moral of the long winded story (sorry); If you think you're going to collide with another surfer, get control of your board. That's numero uno. Fall down on it. Jump in the water and grab the board on the way down. Anything to slow the momentum and minimize the damage. In the aftermath, always check to make sure the other person is allright. I was lucky in an unlucky sort of way. I had time to react and protect my head. Could easily have been worse.

It was surfable; there was good fun to be had. Messier than yesterday for sure, and a little smaller. I think either the waves or I or both were better early on (I was in at dawn); towards 8:00 it was choppier and also breaking pretty shallow and steep where I was, and that didn't jibe too well with my poor wave timing. Nice to meet the blakestah (I'd seen you out there more than once without knowing it).

Frontside cutback requires lots of speed to get way in front of the shoulder. I'd say pump a few times, then start with a slight bottom turn. You have to move fast from there and there are a lot of nuances. Here's a good intro:
cutback

Dennis, terrible news! I gotta tell ya though, I had a similar experience last night. As I am paddling back out (15 yards from shore but deep water), a guy is riding a wave toward me. I just stop paddling, thinking this will give him PLENTY of space to go by and he can enjoy the remainder of his ride. Instead, he pulls a "cool guy" move and tried to turn into the white water and penetrate the rolling water. As he has now put himself directly between me and the rushin white water. The whitewater runith over but I stay controlled and in my space. Next thing you know "cool guy" pops up right next too me. To make matters worse, he wants to paddle battle on the way out....

I love to paddle battle with people that can't read waves. It makes me smile.....

Oh, one other thing annoying about most "learn to surf" articles. Many tell you to grab rails during a popup but your board is much more stable if you put your palms flat on the center of the deck (fingers pointed forward) and popup.

For those having trouble holding on to your board, instead of grabbing it like a book on a shelf, put your palm flat on the rail, fingers pointed to the sides and grip with your fingers mainly, pushing the heel of your hand into the rail. You can get a much stronger grip this way. And wax top of the rails! Sheez.

-Nate

Geez Dennis- sorry to hear about your stick. I thought those boards with self propel minds stayed south of smokingJay.

Who's got the 411 on the stanky water? I felt dirtier after last nite's sesh than before..

Surfers ear- I know this has been beaten to a pulp, but what do y'all use post surf to get the funk out of your ears? Also any recomendations on plugs?

anyone stopped dead in the water could start moving at any moment, and the rider up can't know where.

anyone moving in the water, can be seen to be moving in a particular direction (preferably to the shoulder), and may be avoided as a result.

if someone stops paddling and they're in my field of vision, i'm going to assume they're being indecisive -- ergo unpredictable -- and try to pull out as a result...

dennis....bummmer on the board and GOOD ON YOU for
making the point but not being a tool about it. calm explanations make the greenhorns less defensive and
more willing to listen...then learn how to NOT BE A KOOK.

you should have requested a 6'er to calm you and to
consume whilst doing the repair. i love an ipa with my
resin fumes.

Bagel, can you post some more of those cool n trippy paintings...

Thanks

Anyone who likes the Roots, go run down the new one, The Tipping Point..'tis unreal!!

I flush with rubbing alcohol after every surf. I wear Hear-o ear plugs ($4 at Walgreens) every surf.

There musta been some sorta newbie influx at OB this year. There's lots of people out on lame onshorish days in August, can't wait to see mid-October crowd peaks...

Been using rubbing alchohol for years now, but I never know how long to leave it in. 30 seconds or so seems to do it.

On a related note: ever have sand get blasted up into your sinuses? Any effective ways of getting that out?

how long has everyone here been surfing OB? seems like a huge upswelling occurred in 1999 and has gotten worse ever since. the only "non-crowded" days are when it's DOH+. then again, it ain't socal....

another way...
there are some right-of-way rules that apply to surfing. basically, the guy on the wave with an open face has the right-of-way and people should stay out of his line on the face of the wave.

application of right-of-way: if a guy is riding a wave with open face to his right, and someone is 15 yards dead in front of him (paddling back out), we should assume that the paddler will stay out of the rider's way and that the rider will continue right, following the face. it's perfectly correct for the paddler to stop paddling to stay out of the way. even better, the paddler can continue paddling toward the WHITEWATER BEHIND the rider (note: DON'T PADDLE TO THE SHOULDER/OPEN FACE and impede the rider's line.)

An understanding of right-of-way and avoids collisons and confrontations and makes everyone's time in the water that much more fun--similar to understand right-of-way when driving around town.

note: the term "guy" is not gender-specific and applies equally to all the wonderful water-women who frequent this board.

i did mean back towards the whitewater, e.g. behind the shoulder. my bad, mis-typed.

as for stopping: yeah, maybe at a distance. close quarters? keep moving.

Its been getting more crowded for a while - not just OB, but the Bay Area in general. There was a big dot-com boom in the late 90s, but there is another one in the last 1-2 years.

I moved here in 96.

All of us have to surf these lamish June, July and August waves - out of sheer desperation.

I have a difficult time understanding why one surfer, on a day like yesterday, would happen to run into another surfer ?- you'all musta been surfing Pacheco. 15-20 "surfers" on sloppy messed up reform? Rest of the beach - empty.

If somone had run into me in surf like this I would punch him in the face - no questions asked. Or I would grab my longboard or pointy gun and throw it right at his fat head, or I would grab his board and somehow fuck it up.

At this point I need a fight on the beach.

All these creeps acting like thy're the shit - I'm sick of it. GO HOME OR GO TO HAWAII or Santa Crud. Take your gay, as in DORK WANNBEPROSURFSHMOFAG SHIT and fucking BEAT IT!!!!
What makes the actual surfing residents here so angry is that we ENDURE the entire summer and then come september we get bombarderd by whores of people with no regard for us or what we've been through.
Could be a tough Fall.
All the trash, the half extinguished fire pits, glass, cardboard and cans left here by the inlanders. Shit is pissing me off. No respect for anything - this jacked up society is a self centered, mean, fucked up consumerist co-opted reality of fake poser shit!! Nothing but shit. What the fuck happend to Cali!!!!
Where is the original!
I am the fucking original OKKKKKKKKKKK.

Thanks for all the ill advice on the pic thing.
Unfortunatly Bert gets shipped off to Iraq next week, I SHIT YOU NOT - he doesn't know when he'll be back. He called me last night and told me where the keys to his place are hidden just in case something comes up at the house??!?

Thanks Niceness for the help in trying to keep the peace at the beach. Helps to know who your " friends" are.

Out there.

aw: agreed--cool.

also, last night was fun. a bit of a crowd out, but lots of waves (or at least bumps) and some smiles in the water. i didn't notice any stink in the water, but when I got home, my wife certainly did: "how was sur...ewww, you stink. go take a shower before you sit down". ahhh, true love.

bvb is going to hell. And if you hook up with your 10 year "friends" wife while hes fighting in a war for the country that you live in, your obligated to tell us all the story, every detail. and no 5 words in 1 either. your the true original tranny.

i started surfing OB in '98. I'm a dot-commie!! I didn't go to high-school at lincoln or washington. I don't rip. I'm not even a local where i learned to surf in Jersey back in 7th and 8th grade. I surf Linda Mar. I botch take-offs. I don't wear a trucker hat. I'm white. My parents don't surf. I'm a tranny. I kook out. I used to boogie board before i started surfing. I didn't party in high school. I'm not a local. I don't get barrelled that often. I like to talk about surfing on the interweb. I sometimes name surf breaks. I drive to non-local spots and surf them.

I'm the surfing anti-christ!

yah, I agree with the other posts regarding more new faces around now days. Surfing one of the better peaks (also more crowded) yesterday afternoon I noticed a bunch of new faces. Many of them were novice to intermediate at best --- just good enough to catch waves on their fun shapes or 7'6" "winter boards", but not experienced enough to understand etiquite(sp?).

where are they coming from...USF/SF State or is surfing just getting that much more popular???

either you're the anti-christ or the only person on the forum man enough to admit to the rest the truth!

surfing is popular right now, deal with it.

hold out for when kitesurfing really takes off and surfing is lame, then we should be all set in the line up.

This seems like such an appropriate place to come and rant about all things that piss me off. I feel so safe expressing my "true" feelings. Thanks you e for giving all of us a place to be ourselves. Even if we are driven to ax-murderer levels of rage....there's still a safe and warm place for us here.

Greetings,

SHARK SIGHTING AT SLOAT YESTERDAY!!

DETAILS: Valid sources (John Moore of Mystic Surfboards + 1 of his buds + Dagan Ministero, ripper) CLEARED THE WATER yesterday afternoon at Sloat when a 1-foot "unmistakeably white shark" fin cruised and cruised again through the line-up. They figured 1-foot fin might = 10'-12' juvenile but who's gonna screw with that? Many eals were in the water. So they went down to the safety (not) of Pacheco-Rivera b/c you know, the shark wouldn't be able to get over there for like 5 or 10 seconds if it wanted to. Anyway, the sightings are at a record high over the 8 years I've lived here, which brings me to my next response....

cc, referrring to your question to the readers:

I've been surfing here since I moved from NJ (yes, hate me) in August 1996, and by all accounts it was relatively empty then. We used to have fall sessions on empty peaks around that time, and especially when it was double-O. I remember being out all alone on many occasions. Spooky but nice. I also remember traveling down to the Lane for uncrowded sessions then. Believe it or not, and I pine for those days....

IMO, The real uptick in crowds started right around 2001, I noticed. Wetsuit technology + hype + population growth has worked to increae the numbers significantly. It doesn't help that we see surfboards in every damn TV commercial these days -- usually unwaxed and set up in front of completeley FLAT beaches!! I thin they film at Zuma a lot or something, har har ;)

-MONKEY MILK

I've been at OB since 1998, not afraid to admit it. I got a job up here after graduating college. Before that, I was in SLO, loving MdO and the MB spit. May head back there if I can get a job down there.

Re: kitesurfing, yah, that is the most likely thing to draw people away, esp. with the winds over the bay.

i'd say it's not as much college students as post-college trannies who moved to SF for work like myself (since 2001). dotcommies or what have you. some surfed beforehand in socal or the east coast or whatever. the rest just got caught in the blue crush surf explosion thanks to big screen surf movies/xgames/OLN/men's journal articles/etc and a lot of free cash thanks to the internet.

OB has the oldest surfing population of anywhere i've ever been, i don't see any kids under 16 regularly and i only see like 7 or 8 kids under 18 regularly. OB also has the largest percentage of kooks, least percentage of boogies (i'm sure you're all grateful), and the highest percentage of kneeboarders of anywhere i've ever been.

i started surfing ob in high school in 89. people were happy to see other people out in those days it seemed. there is still a tiiiiny bit of that specially when it gets bigger. also back in my day we didnt have no moving pictures, we only had one show and it was called "stare at the sun". i gave up surfing about a month ago anyways. BVB's going to hell. dana carvey was killing me last night. cadavers got some paintings i bet..heres a friend of mines named Kim he just started surfing last year and is showing alot of gumption, he said he went down the line for the first time last week and was aaalll stoked learned to surf on a 7'0 as well good "on" him as they say..

Monkey milk, yah, it's been very recent.. just the last 2-3 years have been the most growth. I used to teach friends (and only one of them actually took up surfing but he had just quit for a few years). Now I'm not teaching anyone for a while until this hype thing calms down.

It's like the mid-80's when dayglo colored wetsuits were the rage. I was bodyboarding then.

definately the highest population of kooks and kneeboarders is in sf per capita..last year(when i still surfed) i was pretty much garunteed(good speller) one of these three:

1.getting run over

2.having to straighten out cause someone couldnt paddle around me

3.getting snaked by someone who is totally "in the zone" and wouldnt hear sam kennison yelling at him

rant done

ps. heres me jk

And the surfing population just went up another notch...

Organized stagings/rumors of numerous shark sighting/attacks, fights in the line-up and car break-ins up (note: staged) and down the tri-county coast will be phase 1 of Dr. Evil's plan to take back the surf.

Haa, haa, haa...

and whomever shaped those boards for the teenchoice awards should be run out of town! I jsut hope he charged them a couple grand a piece.

Oh, this is a surf blog? I thought this was a place to talk about night clubs?
I've seen lots'o kneeboarders in SC too. Everyone who lives at the beach: the reason the beginners go to OB so often is they aren't aware of how treacherous the beach is. Start posting the "warning, you WILL drown if you surf here. People you see in the water are highly experienced surfers" signs. Start spreading word of mouth how KGNARLEY ob is and how many people die there every year. People think it's a "fun" beach. It's not. It's crazy and scary. More people need to talk about their "near-death" experiences here and that'll show how bad it gets. I've almost drowned at ob. Twice in SM. Once on Oahu. Maybe I should stop surfing? Anyone listen to Sage Francis?

i almost ran over a cute little fishrider's footsie this morning. sorry about that. i haven't been surfing ob regularly for that long. iregularly since 95. almost drowned my first time out. damn i used to do so stupid shit as a kid.
thanks for the help nate. who knew about.com could teach you everything you ever needed to know about surfing? i'm sure i'll be pulling my full roundhouse lip re-enty next time. or at least clogging the line up.

Guston

5 entries found for gnarly.

gnarly

/nar'lee/ Both obscure and hairy. "Yow! - the tuned assembler implementation of BitBlt is really gnarly!" From a similar but less specific usage in surfer slang.

i am the ocean beach
the ocean, bitch
will pummel you
punch air from lungs
& fill
with red tidal water
whip you north and under the gate
drag you south on out to sea
and back
spit you out onto mist-clung sand
shaking
bleeding
heaving
kissing the sand

teen choice awards were disgusting yet entrancing, especially since i don't have cable and don't know half these people. lindsey lohann's hoots are absolutely ginormous. wheelbarrels full.

miles of dribbley, mushy surf and everyone sits on the same peak....ACK!
Or.
nothing but the clicking sound of chris king hubs and the screech of cantilever brakes as the flexy steel ride of the crossbike whisks you through another series of rutted switchbacks within coastal forest with just you and your thoughts of missing all that epic dribbley, mushy surf, crowded surf........

i'll 2nd the Roots recco. heavy rotation on the iPod espicially groovy on flowy single track.

i started surfing when everything was black and white...
c'mon you have seen the old photos. the world was ONLY
black and white just a few decades ago....

alright that's bullshit.....

i have been surfing OB since 2000 and the crowd seems
about the same in the fall/ winter/ spring and larger in
"the summer" over the last 4 years.

before that oregon from 1994 > 2000. anyone want empty waves, just drive past the stateline and turn left. sf/ OB/ smc seems like the mid-way point between the pacific coast extremes. in the north more than 3 > 5 people is a crowd.
folks talk to one another and generally welcome others.
(see the jerry lopez interview)
although i have seen cars with cali plates with their
windshields waxed. this being very different from the
soCal vibe.

i agree COMPLETELY with bbr OB does have the oldest
surf population of anywhere i have surfed regularly.
which is good. it seems that mellows folks a bit.
also from my experiences, seems that most people in the water are good folks, be nice don't drop in, paddle like idiot (right dennis) and everyone stays nice. (you still should have gotten
at least a six pack outta that guy...dennis)

i am going to hermosa and points nearby this weekend...
will give the comparison report on tuesday.

it all boils down to treating others with a bit of
respect and niceness. so be nice and play fair.

quit bitching we could live in say....
kansas or somewhere of that landlocked ilk.
fark!

In 1990 I puked on the beach in front of VFW's. My leash broke on a beautiful, but DOH day. It was a long and horrifying swim. On that same set my buddies Padonovich snapped in half, and when both of us made it to the beach there were two other boards washed up next to ours.

I tell this story in hopes of deterring, ...plus it's fun to tell stories like this. Problem is it didn't really scare me away, so perhaps the horror story theory has flaws.

">
Guston

saw the beach from fulton to sloat this am, and can definitely say pacheco - rivera didn't look much better than the rest of the beach this morning, you all sure you really hate crowds?

Don't paddle out to the peak i am on in Hermosa, Korewin!

sorry

Guston

was that in january of 1990 jack?

i was here visiting and it was enormous.
DOH+ and three guys out getting pitted in
barrels big enough to hide a buick.

Hb—lighten up francis.

naked man puking on beach

needs no introduction

OB could be like this...

we don't need another surfer in Hermosa Korewin!

(i guess you don't see the sarcasm.........)

Dana Schutz, "New Legs", 2003, oil on canvas, 152 x 167 cm

How not to get your board dinged:

1) dont paddle out through the line-up or towards other people.

2) NEVER STOP. If it's a kook head for the whitewater behind the kook, if it's someone who knows what they are doing keep going straight unless you definitely have enough room to get behind them.

oh i get it.....i know been around there
once or twice before. crazy crowds. like
2nd street in va beach.

that is why i will not stay too long.

has there even been any surf?
looks small. just looking forward to
warmer water......ya know?

sarcasm muchly appreciated Hb...

not much at all. little windswell that is prob. the same as you guys are gettin' up there. fun with the right attitude! seems to be dying though. some SW comin' thru this weekend? shitty angle, hit up those points like you were talking about but be ready for a zillion people but trunkin' water makes it a mo' bettah.

welcome!

Just swam the beach in my brand new neon pink speedo's. Kelly's to Sloat and no shark.
LIARS.
Cadaver seeing as how you have your finger on the pulse and the archive drawer open how about you dig up and post some Raymond Pettibon - some of the large 40' tall surf mural stuff as seen at the MOCA LA back in '99 or threabouts.
I'm not bitter, not really, just playing devil's advocate. I never said I wanted to touch my friends wifes ass like when she bent over to pick up the linen napkin I let slip out my lap.
Plus Bert understands things. He told me he thinks its pretty much over between them. Let's call her Gwen, she is 38 and not a bad looker but having talked to her that day I realize that she's more than just a M.I.L.F to most younger men - there's much more going on in that confused ladies head than you guy's gave her credit for.

How do I post pictures or link?

no, the horror story theory doesn't have a flaw in the sense that it keeps you coming back for more (which is true) but at least by the time someone's ready to handle bigger stuff they at least (hopefully) know what they're getting into. HB gets fun I think. I've actually (don't know how) gotten it REALLY good, but it was about 6 am. Stayed empty until 10. Guess no one cracks it down there.

moderate south on the way. steep angle. next tuesday?

On session #2 yesterday afternoon, I took off on a fast right, probably my biggest of the day that just walled up in front making a really fast section. Made the section and ended it it with a snap off the top with a cutback and bottom turn. Sweet. Tried to pull under the lip on the next section. Got my head under but there was no barrel. Musta had my mouth open cuz I got a choking amount of water forced into my throat and a little in my lungs. Hope I don't start growing some wierd cultures inside me... I had a nasty taste in my mouth for 4 hours afterwards. My wife stayed away.

man, buncha complainers! buncha complainers that have only been here since 96? 97? 98?

bring me that teeny tiny violin. ;)

I'M KIDDING!!!

my gut is gnarly

my putt is gnarly.

oh wait, golf was 2 weeks ago...

yeah tuesday and weds decent south!

On the crowd tip, its one of those things that takes care of itself.

If you surf a lot around here, you begin to recognize faces that you see over and over. I don't know who the hell BVB is but I bet I have surfed with him a few times. Unless he is a lazy bastard that doesn't get out of bed before like 10:00 most weekday mornings. Anyway, with that being said, if you surf enough, you know who else is dedicated to surf our glorious beaches. So, when you see someone floundering around on a funboard that you don't recognize, you most likely are going to be a little cautious and a bit less understanding to that person.

Think about it like this: if some guy that you have surfed with 40 times drops in on you, you will be more willing to forgive and forget then some newbie. As in this case, its HIGHLY likely you will surf with this same person a 41st time and so on.

People come and they go. I will do the same, just like most of us. I can't say I will be surfing OB in 5 years. I might be living in Hawaii, Idaho, or with my boy Rick Kane in 'Zona.

Have you ever wondered why there are hardly any groms to pick on at OB? Don't you find that really strange?

if you move to idaho we'll go up there and put you out of your misery NRA style. we got your back homey.

If I recall it was early fall of 1990. It was one of those crystal clear, warm, fall days. There were A-frames, channels, lulls between sets. Just the right day to lure an unsuspecting grom into the lair. The wind was blowing ever-so-slightly offshore.

Unforgettable day.

roundhouse

i long for the day when my biggest worry is how many people are paddling around in the ocean on a piece of fiberglass covered foam

groms get there ass kicked by the heaviness of the wave...I guess.. I think its strange too no high school kids either that I see....Bunch of 25 and over crowd.

i could be wrong but i think that there aren't that many families that live in the city therefore not many groms. they all live down on the peninsula and my hometown Foster City yo!

be happy for it, nothing worse than picking a certain street down here at 6am and then at 6:30 you have 50 middle school RIPPERS bobbing around you.

I'm seeing NADA from this "decent" south.

It was aimed a good 30-40 degrees away from us.

If you fly to Pavones, you are gonna score. Mainland Mex, maybe, NorCal, very very very iffy. Here are example images - the purple arrows in the top images should point straight up to generate fetch for NorCal - instead they are set up for Peru and Pavones and Mainland Mex.

Classic! Nice pic Ian.

J, Boise is sweet! The only place in all of the US where you can play football on blue astroturf.

Besides, I heard the chicks are easy there and the beer is cheap. You'd love it.

Hb—especially when those middle school
kids catch and ride ANY LITTLE ripple within
50 yards of them and rip it to shreds when
it would not even push a grown up towards
the shore......arrrrggggh!

also the influx of OB folks ain't from usf.
there are maybe 2 dozen students that surf here.
the rest say it is "too cold".

looks like a portrait of my old boss on the wall there...

eff it, i know how to not get dings.
dont surf! YAY. sharks are very dangerous and so are foam tops. and so is surfing. and the ocean. and hell, driving to the ocean.

im getting my own bubble.

later OB.

nah. just kidding. dudes.
i'm bringing a surf camp full of 28 year olds to every peak... come the first swell. its going to be awesome. seriously. waimea style.

no sleep till november!

ah, eff it. im going surfing.

Sandow Birk

for bbr

That picture is sick!

those are some saggy boobs for an 18 yr old

Here's a scary one. My 12-year old son was reading magazines while we were waiting in line at Grocery store. We're walking out and he reports: "Hey Dad, You know Lindsay Lohann has implants! According to this mag I just read."

And my 6-yr old wants to be just like her!

Ian that is some "sickness".

Move over niceness...there is a new site in town.

Haha, I was actually talking about the Sandow Birk painting. Someone beat my post. That's classic. Anyway, anyone see the Snowboarder mag's 04/05 buyers guide? The Billabong section PISSED me off. They have all these fashion poses completely irrelevant to anything having to do with snowboarding. They show people walking around the desert and shit in snowboard clothing. get a clue.

Uh, Yellowman, that was actually me who said "man smart but woman smarta" Off the Zungguzung... album.

I think every surfer should expereince "grom hazing" It builds charecter, teaches respect and a better understanding of the physical and social hierarchies that exist in surfing. I can name more than a few current SC pros that suffered serious grom hazing and are now leaders in our sport. Plus it would be so theraputic for us natives to give, to all you who have yet to recieve.

whattup heads! I won't be in town tomorrow.. soo.. hopefully Kaiser will start you guys off..

i'll email him..

have a good weekend.. drink the extra beer.. take the extra bong-rip.. jam the extra jam... take the extra wave... etc..

you too E.

1st surf: newport RI, '90, on an ancient log, had real wood in it, found it in a cellar, no waves but i was happy that it still floated.
2nd: montauk, '93, on a teenager's starter shortboard, flailed.
3rd: real start- sloat, '97. on a used funboard i bought at a yardsale in the haight. the yardsale was integral. got a used wetsuit from big yank. roomate surfer with a truck helped too.

i surfed intermittently & only longboarded until 2002. picked up the etiquette along the way, but didn't truly follow it until i could duckdive - totally changed my perspective on/response to impending collisions with waves or people.

imo, the vast majority of problems i've seen out there are due to negligence/ignorance, not maliciousness. how the bad actor responds is as much a function of their capacity to admit mistakes and their learning style preferences as anything else. if 'good' surfers modeled humility, it might help the newbies be less defensive/receptive.

which reminds me, winter swells a-comin soon, can anyone recommend good breath-holding exercises?

Hmmmm........What should I post up in here..........

1) A Reef Girl Special
2) Some lesson on wave refraction
3) El Nino information
4) Defense mechanisms for shark attacks
5) A Reef Girl Special

I'll have to think about it overnight.....

good breath-holding exercises: be in the same room with me after i've eaten a whole raw onion.

oh ya, sorry fathead

hmmm...i'd say either #1 or #4, but make sure they are wearing less clothing due to the warming caused by #3.

breath holding exercises - whatever you do i'd include water and holding breath under duress. you can hold your breath on land for minutes at a time, but only a fraction of that in water. access to a pool? swim 25/50 yards underwater on one breath, get out do 50 pushups, jump in and do the same again underwater. repeat as necessary. you'll eventually get to the point where your body is gasping for breath but your mouth is closed. very, very odd/bizarre/scary feeling, but just power thru it and keep doing the workout. (oh, and do with a buddy in case you black out)

that, or come sit in my cube the night after i go out for nachos/beers and have a mocha in the morning...

i have to agree with 3to5. i grew up in sc being hazed heavily, and it definitely taught me respect. either you rip and/or have established yourself at a spot over a period of years or you accept a lower rung on the totem pole. if all the freakin' surf schools would teach not only etiquette but a little repect for the hierarchy, you would see a lot less kooks getting their asses handed to them at places like middle peak, first peak, and the hook. it's funny because i hated the surf nazi enforcers when i was a kid, but now i wish there were more of them around to knock some sense into the beginners that overrun the breaks now. not that i'm advocating actual violence, maybe just some not-so-veiled threats here and there to keep the newbies in line...

damn seems like today is coming out day...haha...well, what the hell.

started surfing ob in 94/95? after moving up from N. LA County. Yes, another tranny mofo. Almost drowned in my 3/2 wetsuit prolly my 5 or 6th session and generally got spanked a lot at ob while living in the city. Learned more at ob about water than I ever learned in the 10 previous years surfing down south. moved to marin in 99 (still a tranny mofo) and don't get nearly enough time to clog up the ob lineup (farrrrck@!) with 2 kids and all. i usually surf alone.

thanks for the roots tip, I need some new music.

word. big g.

temple,you don't still wear your brothers wetsuit snowboarding do you?

I need my daily fix from Sharkbait and other female posters. They are good sports and can roll with the punches. But some of the drunk frat boy shit pisses me off- most of it yesterday. If you feel the need to treat women as meat then you have a problem and that's the reason you aren't involved with a good woman. I'm not talking about Kaiser's butt shots. . . that's ART! We can respect women and still express our piggy side. Most women I've known appreciate a little testosterone- but not anger. End of sermon.

E- please delete the mean stuff.

For the other way of looking at it folks, I've been surfing in crowds for a looong time and have managed to stay out of the way of other people. This is the second time someone has dinged my board. The first time was 35 years ago and I was paddling--honestly. But I always like to have another way of looking at things just to keep balance :)

I started surfing OB in high school around '87. OB was actually one of the places I learned to surf. I used to get rides from the older guys, one being a full on contest surfer, so I had no choice. Thinking back now, it is a great place to learn, even if I flailed often, cuz I'm not scared of the place at all. It was much less crowded back then, you could pretty much pick one of the better peaks for yourself. Now you get pushed over to the mushy and inconsistant peaks if you're not into the whole social aspect of crowd surfing. Hopefully in the next few years surfing will be unpopular again.

Does growing up in Oakland and surfing at OB make me a tranny, or just a dedicated commuter?

Justin,

I'd say your local, so long as you can ride a bike to the beach in a day. That would be totally possible in Oakland if the bay bridge allowed it. You could even ride down to dumbarton, hit kings mtn to tunitas in a hard day.

To everyone else, OB is kind of a generic beach break on mediocre days at least. There are huge stretches of beach much like it all over N. Cal. If you're carpooling with others, go ahead and hit some of the vacant shit.

learned to surf at Bo when i got old enough to handle a real surfboard. lived in marin, used to ride GG transit out to stinson in middle school. Went to high school in the sunset but still didnt surf the beach too much, i was donig "team sports" crap. Really lame- i think of all the perfect days i watched from a fucking soccer field behind SI, and i want to cry. But i did get out there some, got my first real ass kickings.

From one who tried it- its hard to be a grom at OB. you're just not strong enough, and when you're 5'6' and 130 pounds its tough to make it over the ledge. I'd go to sc now and then and it was like heaven- "look Dad, i made it outside!"

Dude, love those Gustons.

In regards to the tranny/.com/surf pop. explosion over the past 5 years, I think it's safe to say that the same technology those "dot-commers" developed has had a direct relationship to the increase in access to Bay Area surf. We are all here on the internet and have created a type of local surf culture that allows people from all walks of life to be involved in the going-ons of the San Francisco surf scene. Instead of talking shop with the bros at the surf shop, we have extended that forum to a public venue. The "you should have been here yesterday" rhetoric is all but gone to the ample supplies of surf reports and web cams. We know we should have been here yesterday because everyone and their mother saw it on surfpulse (sorry for naming sites). The internet has told us where to surf, when to surf, and who will be surfing there. You can live fifty miles from the coast and know exactly where and when you should surf, and know days in advance. Instead of crossing your fingers for good surf, you can make your weekend plans according to the incoming swell models and website predictions. I do it and so do most people that use the web. I don't see surf popularity fading strictly due to the fact that the internet has made "those perfect days" accessible to anyone with a computer.

I think you're right Justin. I just like to talk/read shit on the internet and check the surf by simply going to the edge of the cliff and looking. I remember pops getting pissed at me in the 80's-90's for making long distance calls to 976-surf, Wise, or O'neill all the time. Surfing has definitly gone from being the thing skaters and stoner/partiers do to being more of a bicycling/snowboarding easy to get into thing.

We are going to have a soul shakedown party aiet . . .

We are going to panther beach for a bonfire and a drum circle on Sunday the 29th around 5:15 pm and we'll stay there until about 9:45 pm.

Prime time for a sunset, a huge fire, a wicked drum circle and the rise of a full moon . . .

We would love for you and your friends to join us :)

Bring your friends and family, instruments of all kinds, warm cloths and other goodies, but most importantly, your good spirit!

We have 10 truck loads of fire wood we can haul out to our spot..

The evening sky will be ON FIRE>>>>>>>>>>

There are three mailing lists.

1. is for people who have a car and/or want to carpool.
2. is for people with trucks that want to help me haul wood from a house in los gatos to the beach.
3. is for those people who want to show up on their own at the beach and need info like directions.

E mail me back and let me know which of these groups I should hook you up with..

Here's my email! m_willis@hotmail.com

Here's my email! m_willis@hotmail.com

burn your fucking wood in your back yard asshole

eastbay to kings mtn down tunitas to decent surf on a bike. HA! like your legs would have anything left for a bottom turn.

burn more wood, have you thought of the environmental impact of your faucking fire on that beach? me thinks not. typical wannabe newbie hippie drum circle mentality. No worries I'll let my SC county sheriff and fire bro's know what's up.

I'll burn my 12 truckloads of wood wherever I DAMN WELL FEEL LIKE BUDDY!

No, you won't.

I burn wood in my fireplace. It keeps me warm sometimes.

Yes we are! 12 truckloads of wood burning on the beach! Panther Beach, Sunday the 29th around 5:15 pm. Try to stop us!

-M. Willis
m_willis@hotmail.com

kaiser, you would.
ha!

You better hope the sherrifs get there before we do.

12 Truckloads of pallets with nice little nails and fasteners add a little plastic and paper BABY! SO WHAT? SO FUCKING WHAT? WE'RE GONNA HAVE A GOOD TIME! FUCK THE FUCKING BEACH AND ALL THE FUCKING FUCKUPS WHO SURF. FUCK LITTLE FUCKING ANIMALS AND THE FUCKING AIR QUALITY. THE FUCKING SWELLS AND HIGH TIDE IN FALL AND WINTER WILL WASH ALL THE SHIT OUT INTO THE FUCKING OCEAN LATER ANYWAYS.

BMW,
Your attitude contradicts the edict of the drum circle crowd. WTF?

Sorry dude, I'm bipolar. Hippy one minute, satanic fire burning nazi the next.

OK everybody, here's the 411 at craigslist:

http://www.craigslist.org/sby/act/39220622.html

Yo, peace out!

i'm gonna be in the dunes with a rifle taking down every shitlocked hippy i see....

Save your bullets.

SCCSD and SCFPD have been notified.

chill out you guys, jeez.

I think drum circles and cheerful hippies are as annoying as the next grumpy ass niceness poster, and thinking about a hundred of em getting all mystical and shit on the beach makes me want to not be anywhere near it

but why are beach bonfires per se unacceptable? thats bullshit. I understand good citizenship requires not burning pallets and other wood with hardware in it, and not leaving beer bottles and other trash behind, but who the fuck is suggesting its wrong to have any kind of bonfire? thats a pretty extreme postion...

Yo, to all you reading the post today: I was going to do the update this morning as E is off to Mendo for the weekend. The problem being that I don't have my password to get me into the web blog interface. So...... We will have to go manual for this unless I get it later in the day.

So, here is what we got from the surf angle:
Checked the beach early this a.m. and it looked like crap. Winds strong out of the south and the swell is almost absent. Driving south, things clean up from the wind perspective but the swell is still tiny. There were a few locales along the way that were surfable but you won't score anything epic (at least from what I say pre 7:00 a.m.).

Back at Internet University, the bouy reports are showing some 14/15 sec. energy from the S tha has been slightly documented. Although this appears to be some steep angle S swell, you might do some research and find where it is hitting. I didn't see any sign of it this morning but then again, I was expecting to.

Alright, its Friday the 13th, and if you see these guys, tell them I said what's up:

Otherwise, have a good weekend and prey for some swell, a better second half of the month or at least some waves in September.....

Later

At OB, you get awakened to the smell of burning creosote all too often. A major step forward would be if beach fires
1) were only built with clean burning fuel
2) left no trace the next morning
3) didn't leave nails and embers behind
4) weren't surrounded by bottles, cans, and other trash

I think if these 4 simple steps were followed, there would be no objections. Instead, beach bonfires are followed by broken glass, dangerous embers and nails, send creosote wafting into the neighborhood. The fire doesn't have to decrease the enjoyment of beach goers the next day, or endanger the health of people who live nearby - but they frequently do.

first, I forgot to put my name on my post above about mystical hippies and bonfires, anonymous posts are lame

second, right on blakestah, I agree completely that's reasonable, real wood, no trash, put the fire out and bury it.

no name,
i grew up on the coast here. i've seen the impact these "events" leave on a beach. i fucking hate the beach on 4th of July for this reason. have you ever gone to the beach on the 5th of July and seen the devastation? i dont have a problem with beachfires in fire rings. but to go to a secluded beach and trash it like they will, doesn't fly with me.

i agree with the blakestah on the fire issues... some fucking hippie ass free love fucks were burning pallet upon pallet out there one night... i walked up and said it's really uncool because the nails are a severe hazard to many people as well as surfers... lead hippie stinky bitch said "no one comes out here during the day! it's always foggy! who can surf out here? it's no big deal and the pallets are free!"
stupid fucktard! should used her head for a drum.

p.s. on the way out i found some of SF's "finest" and alerted them to the stinky bitches posse.

Lads - you are digressing into the pit of warped words.

Supervette tricks zijn er weer te zien in deze kamikaze film, en op zo'n moment besef ik waarom ik zo'n ding niet heb. Ik zou denk ik net zo gek zijn als de motorfreaks in mijn famillie.

The last few years I have been in Oahu for July 4th (not this year) and it should be well documented that Hawaiians know how to BBQ. After the 4th fireworks, there is a ton of garbage out and around the beaches. The difference between here and there, the next morning, it is completely clean. All garbage removed just as quickly as it was left. They don't allow fires so it is not a one to one ratio.

Point: I blame a lot of the beach filthe on the lack of resources to clean it up and maintain it. Patrolling the beach is not a difficult thing to do once in a while.

pack out what you pack in... if people were responsible and intelligent there'd be no need for major resources anyway... people are just inconsiderate morons.

3to5, no problem, July 5 is a nightmare, and 99% of the people who do bonfires are totally irresponsible - based on the aftermath we all see at OB, and the idiots who are showing up at linda mar around dusk when I'm getting out after the rare friday eve session down there. but i think it would be kind of sad and hopefully unnecessary to say no more fires at all.

Man, what a bunch of grumpy old men. It's a frickin beach burn, they're having it on a remote beach, and since they're taking time to organize it and have their name attached to it, they'll probably take the time to clean up after themselves.

It's probably enough to let him know you hope he cleans it up because most people don't, but instead you actually call the cops? Sheesh.

If you live in California and can't handle a beach burn, move someplace else. It's like the old analogy of moving next to an airport and then complaining about the noise.

Toland Grinnell, wood burning fireplace, mixed media

Something from my home for the arteeests. Pierre Oliver Joseph Coomans, Belgium 1883. Sorry the pic isn't better. Anyone else have problems getting good digital shots of art?

Beach bonfires - big fun, but you gotta be cool. I agree with a lot of what has been said here already. No treated wood, or wood that contains hardware. AND CLEAN UP AFTER! Even if you're too blasted the night before, come back the next day to do it!

I wanted to jump in on yesterday’s stuff about fewer groms in the water at Ocean beach. The main reasons are: cold water and heavy waves. I grew up in San Diego and started body surfing when I was 6 years old. I started standup surfing when I was nine. The water temps averaged 65+ degrees and the surf was almost always small and gentle. In contrast, my son, who was born and raised in San Francisco, had probably swam in the ocean fewer than half a dozen times by the time he went surfing for the first time – simply because of the colder/heavier conditions here. At 12 years old he prevailed upon me to get back in the water and take him surfing (I had been drydocked for 20+ years/ but that's another story). He surfed Pedro and Surfer’s beach in HMB for 2 years - just learning how the ocean feels - before his first session at Ocean Beach. The thumping he got that day and on subsequent early surfs at Ocean Beach were probably an adequate substitute for the pink-bellies, public pantsings, and general hazing I got as a gremmie in San Diego. The old joke is that kids who grow up surfing Ocean Beach don’t know that surfing is supposed to be fun.
To this day, after seven years, none of his close friends surf. Most of the people he surfs with are over 30; many are over 40; quite a few are in their fifties; and some are even older. Southern California has grommets rippin' it up all over. Lots of grommets in Santa Cruz. We've all seen the pack of groms at Surfer's beach in HMB bouncing off the jetty, and even Pacifica has a little crew of groms who seem to hang and surf together. It's a whole different deal for an SF kid to surf. They REALLY gotta just love it. I give major props to any youngsters I see surfing at Ocean Beach after September.

Anyone have hiking suggestions around Point Arena? I'm spending the weekend up that way with some non-surfing buddies. Thanks!

Jaques,
Your analogy with the airport is thin. A nice remote beach that gets trashed for a "beach burn" is entirely different than moving next door to an airport.
When you trash a beach the damage is done. Even if you clean up. The embers, the ash, all foreign to the beach ecosystem are compromised.
Again, witnessing this kind of intrusion and lack of respect at remote beaches along the coast over the course of the last 28 years bothers me. If you want a raging bonfire go to fucking burning man, or do it in your backyard, or a beach that has fire rings and infrstructure to deal with it. don't trash a remote out of the way beach.

anarchist grom surfers rule!

Nice take 3to5!

I say burn away but let's get some fire rings in there so I know where not to step. Let's get some patrol out there so that offenders get cited. Let's get a giant comb like on Spaceballs so our beaches are clean when we DP.

i say just burn one like Bob.

wow, check out my new surf clothing brand. DUMBASS EQUIPMENT. be the first to cruise the Lindy parking lot in a DUMBASS EQUIPMENT TEAM RIDER hoody!

www.cafeshops.com/dumb2003

Drum Circle? WTF?
give me a break. what a waste of time.
what is the point to bang out the same beat for 3 hours straight? if you want to do that, go to a Phish concert, same crowd, same song... they all sound the same. WTF???
I cant believe that they make so much money playing the same crap, continuously for hours on end. I think it is just picking up the remnants of the Gurtfel Ded crowd, just looking for a purpose. you call that music?
are you supposed to be getting closer to "the gods" or something with that pathetic drum circle beating? WTF!!!!???!!!!

Gavin Newsome needs to build some fire pits on the beach and the cops need to ticket the A-Holes that leave trash there. also, no burning of that chemical sheite, just wood or duraflames.

that's it!
IMHO
Jack.

My board is sea worthy again! Where's that south? There is a small swell at the beach that looks like it's coming from the south. Wind is on it but ridable at spots.

Charly looks to be heading up the East Coast. Unfortunately, it's directed mostly inland. That means lots of rain and probably not much swell. Phila and NYC are going to get dumped on. Bummer for the EC surfers.

the cam is making it look rideable. at least on a log. not smooth, but not totally disheveled. is this possible?

Last year at the Surfrider Foundation beach party, they had a 3' diameter dish to put the logs in. After the party, just carry the dish off the beach with the burnt wood. Pretty clean. Of course, you need a safe place to dump the hot ashes. The trash cans catch on fire...

i'm a proponent of firepits after spending many years in san diego. go to la jolla shores or mission bay and it's first come, first burn fire pits.

the only problem i see is that firepits at ocean beach would have to get dug out of the blowing sand every few weeks. but it would seriously help keep the beach clean - and keep your toes from getting baked by some hot coals left by some stoned, drum-circle pounding, phish listening, granola eating hippies. and oakland gangsters.

flower-power!

1. Don't play with matches
2. Seek and ye shall find
3. Score and keep it quiet
4. Bring your SO home some flowers today
5. Honor the death of Julia Child by eating a big juicy steak doused in compound butter(butter mixed with herbs,spices,etc.) and wash it down with you favorite red wine.
6. INCREASE THE PEACE

and buy me beers.

word 3to5setsof7

I'm all about the fire pits, they are great to make love next too, or, just to hump guys that I meet at the drum circle, with creative chin beards and long, thick sideburns.

Google me for some pics and vids.
You know you want of piece of this thing!!!

Krystal ()

blakestah - the anarchist grom is donning his best Goodwill suit, a phony press pass and heading to New York next week for undercover work. I told him he best keep out of Babylon's clutches, I ain't doin' no cross-country bailouts!

I've already bitched out two surfers hauling shitloads of pallets out to burn. It's like they tore down a whole house and hauled it to the beach. Fucking great.

Anyways, I can't help but bitch out these losers and soon I'll most likely have to throw a punch or 50. Sucks, cuz jail aint me.

Stop being so stupid folks.

The next worse thing to fire debris at dawn patrol are the stinky fucks camping on the beach surrounded by condoms, bottles, cans, wrappers, nails, fasteners, nasty dogs, dirty bitches, stinky ho's, stained blankets, shopping carts, AIDS, STD's, CUM, blood, fireworks, ....

ocean beach is nasty. you call that shit sand? how many beaches do you see more crows than seaguls? alien vs predetor is the best movie ever. how much would i have to smoke to have a fun session at the beach right now? this is what my eyes see from here at my desk..

can anyone confirm? ss?

i would check the moving picture show and wait for low tide if i was that dude..

Druids:
Seeing as how this is OUR beach we have to take responsibilty for all the clueless dolts that clearly don't know any better.

We alone are responsible for the beach. Berkeley.comhippiedrumbeatingHaightstreet
potsmokingfreaks are not the problem - it's the jacked (sorry Jack) up clueless inner city dorks that come out here to get their party on. WOOOOO HOOOOOOO.
Unopened, or is it piss Seagrams Coolers - Bud Light cans - torn up Corona six pack cases - Corona bottles, morphed to molten aluminum pieces, chards of glass... gas can...lighter fluid, smoldering
pier pilings - nice.

SURFRIDER SUCKS.
- what a bunch of goody two shoes posers.
They're like the Guardian Angels.

Cadaver - your 'Noe Valley Keeps Me Warm' set up is way too sophisticated for us beach folks. But I like it!
Do you by chance receive DWELL and SIMPLE at your home!?

Actually, BOb, here's the perpetrators:

1. Wretlemania-man and buddies. Likes to hit golf balls into ocean from cliff. I don't know where the hell he meets these people, but he invites them to a bonfire with 5,000 pallets burning. Also invites dumb fuck from tennessee who rides a funboard at linda mar, but will paddle out to the peak I'm sitting at if it's small. If I paddle in, he follows.

2. Biff the frat boy. Fucking stupid as fuck and has to join the military because no one would hire his dumb ass. I have nothing against those who serve, but this guy is a fuck head. BUT, he is a bigger fuckhead than me and I am not good at fighting.

3. Meth-head kids, one of which loves wearing his Raiders shirt every single fucking day. These kids are so fucked up it is beyond fucked. They aren't into pallets, they prefer burning shit like sofas and plastic shopping carts.

Guston

RIDDLE FOR THE GREAT AND ALL-KNOWING BVB:

O Bad Vibe, if you spread butter over half your body, and then fell to the floor-- which side of your body would you land on?

Cadaver - geez - nice image again.
Onto an an answer to your question:

da lef side.

Uh:

cryptoniccRavdreaver:

Gooooshvonsprekinzeedeautsch21stcentury
vonhitlerbush. Ya - that looks like Guston gone mad. Like his painting fell to pieces.
What is that?

norcallhoodiesuckme.

CORRECT ANSWER BVB-AGNES!
HAPPY GRAND PRIZE WINNER
SPECIAL WEEKEND INFO TIDBIT:

our sun, as seen from Sedna

all-time classic moment at lindy this morning:

older fat slovenly fella on a yellowing board paddling his fat heart out to snake this 20-something chick who had been sitting patiently for something to come thru (while she was sitting half the time he was paddling for anything....give her one wave dood). i could hear 'eye of the tiger' playing in his head as his eyes went from side to side trying to hold off the eventual heart attack. god bless norcal.

looks like pez headed in the right direction.

Checked the coast all the way down to Montara this am around 8am (Sunday). Kelly's was best so I went out there. Some quick little sections if you get on it but pretty crappy. I can't wait for the Wed swell to hit.

There is a dead body below the Cliff House. I think someone was standing on the wall last night and fell down to the rocks at the far north side of the beach. Sad....

uhh...the dead body is just sittin there?!?! gnarly.

you didn't miss anything south of montara. opted for minda lar late morning. got fun for awhile.

I saw all the cops tape the thing off. Wondered what was happening. Don't agree Kelly's was best this morning though.

Let me help! Just click on my name.

It was covered by a yellow plastic sheet. Gavin, where did you see better waves?

went to donteatus today. almost too small to surf.

better yesterday.

I thought I knew all the breaks between Marin and Santa Cruz. Gavin, e-mail me where it is cuz I'd like to know. I promise I won't tell.

chris - don't eat us is a left point right off the farallones, only reachable by boat or looooong paddle.

watching 'longer' right now....if i could surf like joel tudor i'd quit my day job....

Chris, it's not a secret or anything. You probably even looked at it. It was just cleaner. I'd say between 8:30 and 10:00 was when I was there. I looked at kelly's at about 7:30 (no one out) and 10:00 (on my way home).

Click my name for a view of something pretty.

All is quiet and then.........

Oh, what's this.........

Fall is coming, can you hear it?

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I used to believe that marriage would diminish me, reduce my options. That you had to be someone less to live with someone else when, of course, you have to be someone more.

I used to believe that marriage would diminish me, reduce my options. That you had to be someone less to live with someone else when, of course, you have to be someone more.

I used to believe that marriage would diminish me, reduce my options. That you had to be someone less to live with someone else when, of course, you have to be someone more.